Austrian BLISS

By Christina Ohly Evans

With their baroque palaces, grand hotels and storied cultural venues, the Austrian cities of Vienna and Salzburg are perennial favorites for aesthetes and outdoors people alike. With equal parts old-world glamour and cutting-edge art and cuisine, these cities nestled between pristine lakes and mountains
are calling throughout the seasons.

VIENNA

From St. Stephen’s Square to the iconic Schönbrunn Palace to the charming city trams and bustling cafés, the Austrian capital on
the Danube has stayed true to its elegant European roots but is also dynamic, with art galleries and design-led hotels vying for visitors’ attention. Ever a musical mecca— Beethoven, Brahms, Bruckner, Haydn,
Mahler, Mozart, Schoenberg, Schubert, Johann Strauss I and Johann Strauss II all called Vienna home—the arts continue to flourish here in all forms, at the world-renowned State Opera and at the Leopold Museum, with its collection of paintings by Egon Schiele and Gustav Klimt. But it is the chance to stroll the city’s endless lush gardens and savor a slice
of Sacher torte—a rich chocolate and apricot jam cake that is a Viennese hallmark—that makes a visit here feel like a step back in time. The pace is just a bit slower here, so linger over a decadent Wiener schnitzel with a glass of local grüner veltliner at one of the city’s Michelin-starred temples of gastronomy or opt for a simple street dog (or bratwurst). When it comes to exploring this magical, verdant city, there is no going wrong.

There is no shortage of sumptuous palace hotels here, so it’s the perfect place to make like a Habsburg and be enveloped in an expansive room brimming with gold and jewel-toned velvets. If it’s a more minimalist vibe you’re after, there are plenty of properties that fit that bill as well. In short, Vienna is a hotel town, and this is only a small handful of the very best.

New York, My Way

German-born, Manhattan-based architect Annabelle Selldorf shares art, design and culinary highlights in her adopted hometown

It was an initial visit to New York City at the age of 18 that sealed the deal for a young Annabelle Selldorf. Taken by the “electrifying atmosphere that felt like a massive infusion of oxygen”, the future university student packed her bags in her native Cologne and headed for Brooklyn’s Pratt Institute to study architecture. That was the 1980s and she has called the city – uptown, downtown, SoHo, NoHo – home ever since. “It’s very different from other major European cities such as Paris and London,” explains Selldorf of the city that sometimes gets an abrasive rap. “There’s an openness and a jovial embrace that New Yorkers provide that is like nowhere else.”

Fuelled by the vibrant gallery scene of the day, Selldorf initially gravitated toward SoHo and Tribeca – “places full of artists and culture”, she says of the cast-iron buildings, endless exhibitions and vibrant parties that drew an eclectic mix of characters. And while she moved around the city – from the Upper West Side to a loft in SoHo to a former undertaker’s flat – it was always driven by the community and surrounding street life. “Being close to a park or nature didn’t matter to me at all; I was a total urbanite,” she says of her early cosmopolitan existence.

Fast-forward 40 years, and Selldorf is still enthralled by the city’s history, energy and boundless creativity – all of which guide her work as one of the art world’s pre-eminent architects. Her eponymous firm (Selldorf Architects, which she founded in 1988) has long been focused on bringing people to art in all its forms. From galleries and exhibition spaces for David Zwirner, Gagosian and Hauser & Wirth, to Maja Hoffmann’s sprawling cultural centre, LUMA Arles, to cultural institutions including the Neue Galerie New York and the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, she is sought after for her exquisite restraint – a pared-down design aesthetic that is at once elegant, sensitive to the surroundings and, above all, highly functional.

Upcoming high-profile museum projects – including the expansion of New York’s storied Frick Collection and the forthcoming redesign of the British National Gallery’s Sainsbury Wing, as well as the revitalisation of the Smithsonian American Art Museum – are all keeping her busy, but strolling the city streets continues to awe and inspire her. In the following pages, Selldorf offers a glimpse into her New York.

Perfect Weekends

Weekends in New York are all about walking; from the quiet West Village to the East Village and Tompkins Square Park and up to NoHo, the area north of Houston Street. This landmarked area is full of loft buildings built during the late-19th and early-20th centuries. They’re made of cast iron and brick and are so stout – and they’re juxtaposed against contemporary residential structures by Herzog & de Meuron and our own 10 Bond Street. I think this building anchors the neighbourhood a bit. The streets are wide here, and the buildings are low so you can see the sky, and the restaurants are great, too.

The Art March

I always make a list of galleries in Chelsea that I want to visit, with a mix of new and young artists and more established names as well. From Chelsea, I might head to The Whitney, or go uptown to visit the Met [Metropolitan Museum of Art], Neue Galerie and Guggenheim. This provides a structure to my day, a checklist of culture. In terms of music and theatre, Lincoln Center – and the concerts at David Geffen Hall in particular – have so much to offer.  The arts programming at the Park Avenue Armory is another highlight.

Great Heights

New York is a city of skyscrapers that are in dialogue with each other. From the iconic Empire State Building to the late-1920s Art Deco Chrysler Building, to the newer 432 Park Avenue by the late Rafael Viñoly, which makes a striking figure because of its proportions, they all add to the unique mix. I do think with all the buildings popping up everywhere, more regulation might be helpful. We’re working on our first skyscraper project, One Domino Square, which is twin residential towers in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. It’s influenced by the entire city – the nearby Williamsburg Bridge, the sky, the weather. The project features a ceramic façade that’s slightly iridescent and reflects the beautiful light from white to sky blue depending on the season and time of day.

Culinary Gems

My tastes are simple – I like food that is like the buildings that I design. I’ve been a longtime regular at [Japanese restaurant] Omen Azen [Thompson Street] in SoHo where I like both the setting and the cuisine. It’s all about the balance. I love King [King Street] for the same reasons – the atmosphere and the food. It’s like the River Café in London, which makes sense because two of the women owners/chefs trained there. Via Carota [Grove Street] and I Sodi [Bleecker Street] are other favourites; everything is so freshly cooked and so simple.

Green Spaces

People crave parks and public spaces – particularly in New York City. The Hudson River Park, which runs along the Hudson River downtown, is particularly important, as is Washington Square Park near my home; it’s always crowded. Madison Square Park is a little forbidding because the green zones are fenced in, but it’s a nice counterbalance to the urban surroundings. I am a huge fan of both Union Square Park and the Union Square Greenmarket. I buy everything here – my greens, fruit, farm-fresh eggs, milk. New Yorkers love not only the produce and the variety, but the sense of community. I love to observe vendors and locals interacting and experiencing the seasons.

The Cultural Horizon

I’m incredibly excited about The Frick, which has been seven years in the making. The galleries and spaces are finished and are being acclimatised to welcome the art back over the next few months. We designed the entire thing and added 27,000 square feet to the original 1914 building by Thomas Hastings and later, by John Russell Pope. The original garden by Russell Page is now a focal point, as is a beautifully proportioned reception hall, and we restored the art and research library on East 70th Street. In addition, we replaced skylights, changed entry sequences, education spaces, an auditorium and added a light-filled cafe. The way the museum welcomes people is much different and much more inclusive now. As an architect, you must always articulate how a building contributes and why it matters. You need to listen to why people want continuity, but you also need to understand how life and society change. I hope this building transitions seamlessly between the old Beaux-Arts architecture and the new – in terms of spaces and materials – and that everyone feels welcome. If we can change that threshold of anxiety for people who aren’t in the habit of going to museums just a little bit, then I think that’s culturally significant.

Santa Fe Sublime

The American Southwest continues to enchant with its rich cultural history, stunning vistas and vibrant culinary scene.

By Christina Ohly Evans

Set in the foothills of the southern Rocky Mountains, Santa Fe was founded as a Spanish colony in 1610. Throughout its 400-year history, it has remained a center for art, culture and trade. The oldest capital city in the U.S. and a designated Creative City by UNESCO, it continues to draw an international clientele interested in everything from Pueblo-style architecture to inventive cuisine and Indigenous craft. And while many of the city’s stalwarts remain—the colorful galleries that line Canyon Road, green chile stew and sopaipillas, world-famous craft markets and the Santa Fe Opera—new additions continue to enliven

the vibrant scene.

HOTELS

From five-star properties to an authentic dude ranch, these hotels are perfect for stays with a sense of place

BISHOP’S LODGE, AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION

On the outskirts of town sits Bishop’s Lodge, a 150-year-old spiri- tual retreat-turned-Auberge Resort that has managed to retain its original Southwestern charm, including the original chapel built in 1874. A sense of history pervades the picturesque property that’s dotted with fruit trees and tall prairie grasses. It was reimagined to include organic adobe structures courtesy of design firm HKS and Nunzio Marc DeSantis Architects. The property’s 100 rooms and suites incorporate authentic touches—kiva fireplaces and Native American textiles in rich red hues—as well as a state-of- the-art spa offering meditation spaces and traditional healing treatments. There is a strong focus on bringing the outdoors in, with firepits, chairs perfectly placed throughout the landscape and patio dining at SkyFire restaurant, all offering views of lush gardens and the rolling Sangre de Cristo Mountains beyond.

INN OF THE FIVE GRACES

“The Silk Road meets Santa Fe” at this truly unique property in the historic Barrio de Analco District in the city center. With just 24 highly individualized rooms, a stay at the Inn of the Five Graces feels like being a guest in someone’s warm—and extremely opulent—home. The hotel’s name is a reference to the five senses, and any stay here will certainly involve all of them, from the flavor- ful red and green chile at the hotel’s restaurant to the silence found in its tranquil courtyards to relaxing, Tibetan-inspired massages in the exotic spa. A passion project by Ira and Sylvia Seret, propo- nents of an internationally chic aesthetic starting in the 1970s, the Inn of the Five Graces opened in 1996 and features design elements from Central Asia, India, Afghanistan, Mexico, Peru and more within its pink adobe walls. Detailed mosaic bathrooms lovingly created by Sylvia using tiles, shards of glass and pottery scraps are magnificent works of art, as are in-room, piñon-burning fireplaces, Mughal tapestries and shaded patios for Zen reflection. fivegraces.com

INN OF THE FIVE GRACES

“The Silk Road meets Santa Fe” at this truly unique property in the historic Barrio de Analco District in the city center. With just 24 highly individualized rooms, a stay at the Inn of the Five Graces feels like being a guest in someone’s warm—and extremely opulent—home. The hotel’s name is a reference to the five senses, and any stay here will certainly involve all of them, from the flavor- ful red and green chile at the hotel’s restaurant to the silence found in its tranquil courtyards to relaxing, Tibetan-inspired massages in the exotic spa. A passion project by Ira and Sylvia Seret, propo- nents of an internationally chic aesthetic starting in the 1970s, the Inn of the Five Graces opened in 1996 and features design elements from Central Asia, India, Afghanistan, Mexico, Peru and more within its pink adobe walls. Detailed mosaic bathrooms lovingly created by Sylvia using tiles, shards of glass and pottery scraps are magnificent works of art, as are in-room, piñon-burning fireplaces, Mughal tapestries and shaded patios for Zen reflection. fivegraces.com

ROSEWOOD INN OF THE ANASAZI

Set in the heart of the historic Plaza District, the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi is a true work of adobe art. Opened in 1991, the wel- coming inn takes inspiration from the Indigenous cliff-dwelling Anasazi with enormous hand-carved doorways, Native American textiles, carvings and sculptural baskets adding warm, authentic touches to its 58 guest rooms. Ranging in size from a 300-square- foot traditional room to a spacious two-bedroom Anasazi Suite with living and dining space, there are options for art-loving couples and families alike. A cozy library with morning coffee, the Anasazi Restaurant with its central Tequila Table (and outstand- ing huevos rancheros and tres leches pancakes at breakfast) and an outdoor patio that’s perfect for people watching are other small- city pursuits. A small but state-of-the-art fitness studio has recently been added, and in-room massages are available at the end of long days spent at the nearby Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, hiking in Bandelier National Monument or simply strolling the galleries of Canyon Road. rosewoodhotels.com

FOUR SEASONS RESORT RANCHO ENCANTADO

A 57-acre former dude ranch that’s 10 miles from the center of Santa Fe, Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado offers a full immersion in nature with the Rio Grande River Valley and the Sangre de Cristo and Jemez mountains in full view. The property’s 65 spacious casi- tas have been refreshed and skew toward minimalist Southwestern chic; neutral cement floors, adobe fireplaces, soothing textiles, horsehair pottery by artist Linda Concho and local baskets all add to the serene atmosphere. A sleek, dark cement pool offers a welcome respite after long days spent hiking and biking, as does the spa—one where juniper sage smudging ceremonies meet nutrient- rich adobe clay treatments and end with chakra balancing massages. For authentic northern New Mexico cuisine with inven- tive twists, the restaurant, Terra, offers spice-infused dishes such as an aguachile rojo hamachi ceviche and a roasted poblano with calabacitas, quinoa pilaf, Mexican crema, yellow mole, crispy chicos and avocado. Be sure to save room for the legendary churros, served here with ancho reyes poblano cream. fourseasons.com

SPAS

Immerse yourself in the healing waters of New Mexico

OJO CALIENTE

It’s worth the hour drive out of town to soak in the healing waters of one of the country’s oldest health spas, Ojo Caliente. These hot springs feature nutrient-rich, healing minerals including lithia, iron and soda, each with properties that aid in digestion, promote relaxation and much more. In addition to eight communal tubs and private pools, there are hydrotherapy treatments and massages to suit every taste (or ailment). A Satva Botanicals massage incorpo- rates CBD oil to reduce stress, while the Rio Grande Hot Stone massage uses basalt rocks to eliminate stagnant energy from the body and mind. The tranquil Yoga Yurt is the place for small group classes—nidra, hatha and more—and group retreats are also an option. For those who prefer a total getaway, book in at the hotel with its homey Pueblo-style suites or in one of the North Cottages, the four-bedroom Adobe House or even an old-school Vintage Trailer for a true glamping experience. Dine on the patio at Artesian in summer, where hearty breakfasts—blue corn piñon pancakes and tacos stuffed with eggs, pinto beans and salsa—pro- vide fuel for days spent outdoors. ojosparesorts.com

The dining room at Geronimo

GERONIMO

Step inside Geronimo, a restaurant housed in a 250-year-old restored adobe building on Canyon Road, and you’ll feel trans- ported to the world of Georgia O’Keeffe. Whitewashed walls, beamed ceilings and intimate rooms lit by antler chandeliers and crackling kiva fireplaces all create a relaxed ambience. Among the many standouts are jumbo lump crab cakes with sweet corn puree, a vegetarian tasting menu with wine pairing and mains of Telicherry-rubbed elk tenderloin and New Mexico Four Corners grilled rack of lamb with fresh pea puree and parmesan yellow corn polenta. Be sure to book in for a cocktail on the Canyon Road patio to people-watch with an unmatched margarita in hand. geronimorestaurant.com

TOMASITA’S

At 50 years old, Tomasita’s is a Santa Fe institution serving straightforward New Mexican cuisine and some of the best mar- garitas in town. Enchiladas, chiles rellenos, chalupas topped with refried beans and cheese and pork tamales with red chile

are all favorites, as are classic SWIRL margaritas made with primo tequila. tomasitas.com