Santa Fe Sublime
The American Southwest continues to enchant with its rich cultural history, stunning vistas and vibrant culinary scene.
By Christina Ohly Evans
Set in the foothills of the southern Rocky Mountains, Santa Fe was founded as a Spanish colony in 1610. Throughout its 400-year history, it has remained a center for art, culture and trade. The oldest capital city in the U.S. and a designated Creative City by UNESCO, it continues to draw an international clientele interested in everything from Pueblo-style architecture to inventive cuisine and Indigenous craft. And while many of the city’s stalwarts remain—the colorful galleries that line Canyon Road, green chile stew and sopaipillas, world-famous craft markets and the Santa Fe Opera—new additions continue to enliven
the vibrant scene.
HOTELS
From five-star properties to an authentic dude ranch, these hotels are perfect for stays with a sense of place
BISHOP’S LODGE, AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION
On the outskirts of town sits Bishop’s Lodge, a 150-year-old spiri- tual retreat-turned-Auberge Resort that has managed to retain its original Southwestern charm, including the original chapel built in 1874. A sense of history pervades the picturesque property that’s dotted with fruit trees and tall prairie grasses. It was reimagined to include organic adobe structures courtesy of design firm HKS and Nunzio Marc DeSantis Architects. The property’s 100 rooms and suites incorporate authentic touches—kiva fireplaces and Native American textiles in rich red hues—as well as a state-of- the-art spa offering meditation spaces and traditional healing treatments. There is a strong focus on bringing the outdoors in, with firepits, chairs perfectly placed throughout the landscape and patio dining at SkyFire restaurant, all offering views of lush gardens and the rolling Sangre de Cristo Mountains beyond.
INN OF THE FIVE GRACES
“The Silk Road meets Santa Fe” at this truly unique property in the historic Barrio de Analco District in the city center. With just 24 highly individualized rooms, a stay at the Inn of the Five Graces feels like being a guest in someone’s warm—and extremely opulent—home. The hotel’s name is a reference to the five senses, and any stay here will certainly involve all of them, from the flavor- ful red and green chile at the hotel’s restaurant to the silence found in its tranquil courtyards to relaxing, Tibetan-inspired massages in the exotic spa. A passion project by Ira and Sylvia Seret, propo- nents of an internationally chic aesthetic starting in the 1970s, the Inn of the Five Graces opened in 1996 and features design elements from Central Asia, India, Afghanistan, Mexico, Peru and more within its pink adobe walls. Detailed mosaic bathrooms lovingly created by Sylvia using tiles, shards of glass and pottery scraps are magnificent works of art, as are in-room, piñon-burning fireplaces, Mughal tapestries and shaded patios for Zen reflection. fivegraces.com
INN OF THE FIVE GRACES
“The Silk Road meets Santa Fe” at this truly unique property in the historic Barrio de Analco District in the city center. With just 24 highly individualized rooms, a stay at the Inn of the Five Graces feels like being a guest in someone’s warm—and extremely opulent—home. The hotel’s name is a reference to the five senses, and any stay here will certainly involve all of them, from the flavor- ful red and green chile at the hotel’s restaurant to the silence found in its tranquil courtyards to relaxing, Tibetan-inspired massages in the exotic spa. A passion project by Ira and Sylvia Seret, propo- nents of an internationally chic aesthetic starting in the 1970s, the Inn of the Five Graces opened in 1996 and features design elements from Central Asia, India, Afghanistan, Mexico, Peru and more within its pink adobe walls. Detailed mosaic bathrooms lovingly created by Sylvia using tiles, shards of glass and pottery scraps are magnificent works of art, as are in-room, piñon-burning fireplaces, Mughal tapestries and shaded patios for Zen reflection. fivegraces.com
ROSEWOOD INN OF THE ANASAZI
Set in the heart of the historic Plaza District, the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi is a true work of adobe art. Opened in 1991, the wel- coming inn takes inspiration from the Indigenous cliff-dwelling Anasazi with enormous hand-carved doorways, Native American textiles, carvings and sculptural baskets adding warm, authentic touches to its 58 guest rooms. Ranging in size from a 300-square- foot traditional room to a spacious two-bedroom Anasazi Suite with living and dining space, there are options for art-loving couples and families alike. A cozy library with morning coffee, the Anasazi Restaurant with its central Tequila Table (and outstand- ing huevos rancheros and tres leches pancakes at breakfast) and an outdoor patio that’s perfect for people watching are other small- city pursuits. A small but state-of-the-art fitness studio has recently been added, and in-room massages are available at the end of long days spent at the nearby Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, hiking in Bandelier National Monument or simply strolling the galleries of Canyon Road. rosewoodhotels.com
FOUR SEASONS RESORT RANCHO ENCANTADO
A 57-acre former dude ranch that’s 10 miles from the center of Santa Fe, Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado offers a full immersion in nature with the Rio Grande River Valley and the Sangre de Cristo and Jemez mountains in full view. The property’s 65 spacious casi- tas have been refreshed and skew toward minimalist Southwestern chic; neutral cement floors, adobe fireplaces, soothing textiles, horsehair pottery by artist Linda Concho and local baskets all add to the serene atmosphere. A sleek, dark cement pool offers a welcome respite after long days spent hiking and biking, as does the spa—one where juniper sage smudging ceremonies meet nutrient- rich adobe clay treatments and end with chakra balancing massages. For authentic northern New Mexico cuisine with inven- tive twists, the restaurant, Terra, offers spice-infused dishes such as an aguachile rojo hamachi ceviche and a roasted poblano with calabacitas, quinoa pilaf, Mexican crema, yellow mole, crispy chicos and avocado. Be sure to save room for the legendary churros, served here with ancho reyes poblano cream. fourseasons.com
SPAS
Immerse yourself in the healing waters of New Mexico
OJO CALIENTE
It’s worth the hour drive out of town to soak in the healing waters of one of the country’s oldest health spas, Ojo Caliente. These hot springs feature nutrient-rich, healing minerals including lithia, iron and soda, each with properties that aid in digestion, promote relaxation and much more. In addition to eight communal tubs and private pools, there are hydrotherapy treatments and massages to suit every taste (or ailment). A Satva Botanicals massage incorpo- rates CBD oil to reduce stress, while the Rio Grande Hot Stone massage uses basalt rocks to eliminate stagnant energy from the body and mind. The tranquil Yoga Yurt is the place for small group classes—nidra, hatha and more—and group retreats are also an option. For those who prefer a total getaway, book in at the hotel with its homey Pueblo-style suites or in one of the North Cottages, the four-bedroom Adobe House or even an old-school Vintage Trailer for a true glamping experience. Dine on the patio at Artesian in summer, where hearty breakfasts—blue corn piñon pancakes and tacos stuffed with eggs, pinto beans and salsa—pro- vide fuel for days spent outdoors. ojosparesorts.com
The dining room at Geronimo
GERONIMO
Step inside Geronimo, a restaurant housed in a 250-year-old restored adobe building on Canyon Road, and you’ll feel trans- ported to the world of Georgia O’Keeffe. Whitewashed walls, beamed ceilings and intimate rooms lit by antler chandeliers and crackling kiva fireplaces all create a relaxed ambience. Among the many standouts are jumbo lump crab cakes with sweet corn puree, a vegetarian tasting menu with wine pairing and mains of Telicherry-rubbed elk tenderloin and New Mexico Four Corners grilled rack of lamb with fresh pea puree and parmesan yellow corn polenta. Be sure to book in for a cocktail on the Canyon Road patio to people-watch with an unmatched margarita in hand. geronimorestaurant.com
TOMASITA’S
At 50 years old, Tomasita’s is a Santa Fe institution serving straightforward New Mexican cuisine and some of the best mar- garitas in town. Enchiladas, chiles rellenos, chalupas topped with refried beans and cheese and pork tamales with red chile
are all favorites, as are classic SWIRL margaritas made with primo tequila. tomasitas.com