Aaron Keppel: a milliner for sartorial adventurers

Hats off to an artist who creates theatre for the head

“I’m not your grandmother’s milliner,” declares Brooklyn-based, bespoke hat creator, Aaron Keppel of id. And indeed, his one-off creations are not the least bit staid or predictable. A trained sculptor, Keppel is considered by many to be a king of creative headgear, and his imaginative designs grace stylish events (think the Met’s Costume Institute Gala) on both sides of the pond.

Keppel works collaboratively with clients – whether in person in New York, or by phone and email – to design a hat that not only suits its wearer, but also the occasion. Every hat is entirely custom-made, right down to the fine details that are id’s point of distinction. The process of commissioning a hat is simple: photographs of the client are taken – as are measurements – and Keppel then works up numerous, highly detailed sketches of each design. Once a style is chosen, Keppel sends photographs of the commission in progress.

Unlike many milliners, Keppel doesn’t limit himself to felt, fabric or straw (though he is happy to fashion a simple sun hat or fedora from those materials), but instead seeks out vintage fabrics and trims, feathers, mother-of-pearl, unusual flowers, bamboo, twigs and moss – “any material that can be manipulated”, explains Keppel. Recent commissions have included a laurel-wreath-inspired tiara, an eye-catching silk butterfly with a 2ft wingspan (second picture) and a fantastical owl made entirely of torn and pasted rag paper (third picture).

Keppel is strongly influenced by nature and architecture, and botanical gardens and the works of Antonio Gaudí are a particularly rich source of inspiration. From simple vegetal motifs comprised of handmade flowers (first picture), to intricate structures made of wood veneer, commissions can take anywhere from two weeks to two months and typically range in price from $800 to $4,000, depending on the availability of materials and the intricacy of the work involved.

“My clients tend to be people who are somewhat daring,” explains Keppel, “and these hats are definitely something you won’t see anywhere else.”

www.id--design.com

Muriel Grateau: porcelain perfection in Paris

Non-conformist cool on the Left Bank

A visit to Muriel Grateau’s chic Parisian design gallery – tucked away in St Germain’s Rue de Beaune – is a delight for the senses. Just around the corner from the Musée d’Orsay, it’s a worthy cultural detour. Her eponymous shop is a study in stark contrasts: brilliant white walls and bright lighting showcase a range of handmade porcelain plates (first picture), utensils and linen napkins in over 100 hues – all to beautiful effect. Most special, however, is Madame Grateau herself, who you can sometimes find on the premises on a Saturday afternoon. Clad in head-to-toe black – with her signature sleek shades – she is the embodiment of Parisian style and takes delight in discussing her unusual porcelain and linens.

A fashion designer by trade, Grateau turned her exacting eye to tableware more than 20 years ago and now creates minimalist, elegant collections that have recently increased to include statement-making rings, earrings, necklaces and cuffs, and design collaborations with the likes of Axel Vervoordt, India Mahdavi, Peter Marino and Thierry Despont. The spare space includes rows of neatly arranged place settings – the Arte series (plates, cups and bowls from €95-€355) in matte black and ebony shades; the Sorcière series (€145-€420) in mirrored, mottled hues that create a “witches eye mirror”; and the colourful Pop Art collection (€195-€390) which, as its name suggests, offers profusions of colour in both matte and high-gloss finishes. All of the pieces – from the simplest saucer to larger serving pieces – are hand-poured and coloured “in the biscuit”, which gives them a sculptural, artisanal feel.

Exquisite glassware (second picture) in shades of smoky grey and aubergine are works of art, and the range is available in assorted wine- and water-glass sizes. Plain and damask table linens (third picture) in shades ranging from neutral beige to striking apricot and lime hues make heavenly gifts, and Grateau’s versions are contemporary yet timeless. I could have filled a suitcase with these simple pieces alone.

In addition to all of this colourful tableware is the jewellery collection (prices upon request) that is displayed in the back part of Mme Grateau’s 140sq m space. Simple glass vitrines seem to float on the walls in order to display her largely black-and-white collection of spectacular accessories, most of which have been carved from quartz, and are embellished with diamonds. From enormous rock-crystal bangles encircled with black sapphires to a cocktail ring comprised of a large, onyx cabochon with glittered black lacquer, all of her designs are starkly striking.

“I enjoy purity and simplicity because they create timeless forms,” explains Grateau. “My simple designs are as beautiful on an 18th-century table as they are in a fashionable designer’s urban setting.” Grateau is a non-conformist tastemaker – she’s a scion of contemporary Left Bank cool.

A bucolic bolthole in Connecticut’s Litchfield Hills

Luxurious escapism is par for the course at the Mayflower Inn & Spa

One of the greatest things about New York City is the relative ease with which it’s possible to escape: an hour in virtually any direction and you could find yourself at the beach, in the mountains, or sitting by a pristine lake. An hour and 40 minutes north, however, will put you in bucolic Washington, Connecticut – an area of rolling hills and white clapboard New England churches – a picture-perfect town that, for me, recently made for a completely restorative retreat.

I had the good fortune to stay at the newly renovated Mayflower Inn & Spa, a 58-acre oasis that offers everything from fishing lessons to craniosacral massage in the loveliest of Zen settings. With just 30 rooms (from $675-$1,850 per night) – complete with sumptuous Frette linens and many featuring four-poster beds – the atmosphere felt more grand, shingle-style country house than Relais & Chateaux, of which the Mayflower is a part. Every detail was attended to in advance of my visit – minibar requests, personally chosen midnight snacks (excellent touch), as well as preferences for beauticians, should I choose to indulge in the sprawling 20,000sq ft spa.

The inn has built a stellar reputation among spa-goers, but I travelled here specifically for fresh air, good food and downtime. One could, however, easily spend a fully packed month here, as the activities on offer are endless: mountain biking, guided hikes, archery, yoga and Pilates, antiquing in nearby towns, tennis lessons, warming ginger pedicures… the list goes on and on. My weekend away was focused on the great outdoors, but after touring the spa and its soothing Garden Room and treatment facilities, I intend to return for some Steeprock Stone Therapy ($275) in the not-too-distant future. In addition, there is a whole Mind-Spirit menu that incudes classes in meditation, journal writing, watercolour and landscape painting, flower arranging and a particularly intriguing Organise Your Life course ($90) designed to help you manage it all on your return to reality.

I spent quality time reading on the peaceful wraparound porch, as well as in various public sitting rooms that are stocked with beautiful art books and freshly cut flowers. Delicious food is central to the whole Mayflower experience, too – no spartan spa deprivation here – and I feasted at the inn’s formal restaurant whose menu features traditional fare such as beef tenderloin tartare, artisanal-cheese risotto and Niman Ranch pork tenderloin. But I preferred the more casual Tap Room with its comforting classics (a signature Greyledge Farm black Angus burger with hand-cut Parmesan and rosemary chips was perfection) and relaxed vibe.

As an escape that includes lush wilderness, healthy living, a rich panoply of activities and the kind of attention to detail that means wellies and a mac are provided should the sun fail to shine – could life ever be without a serious silver lining at this picturesque haven? Never.

JAR dazzles at The Met

The museum shop sparkles during a glittering blockbuster

It takes quite a bit to excite jaded New Yorkers, but lovers of fine jewellery and fashion are in a state of high anticipation about the Jewels by JAR exhibition opening at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on Wednesday November 20. In addition to the wide selection of the ever-elusive master craftsman’s exquisite creations on display, he has also produced a collection of earrings and watches that will be available to buy for the duration of the show.

Joel Arthur Rosenthal – aka JAR – is rarely in the public eye, despite being hailed as one of the most important jewellers today. Indeed, he is the first contemporary gem artist to have a solo retrospective at The Met. It comes as no surprise that the show is shrouded in mystery, with only a few images being released before the previews. What the exhibition does promise, however, is a profusion of vibrant gemstones, pearls and cameos – all set in an unusual array of metals, including platinum, green gold and titanium – from an exquisite pair of Lilac brooches comprised of diamonds, sapphires, garnets, aluminium, silver and gold to one of the exuberant, fire-opal-  and amethyst-encrusted Butterfly brooches.

JAR is revered for his use of coloured rare and precious gems, such as the Cameo and Rose Petal brooch (first picture) or his Multicoloured Handkerchief earrings (second picture), but this exhibition also makes clear his love for semiprecious stones and materials such as ivory, coral, rock crystal and jasper, which are often overlooked in haute joaillerie.

Of the pieces for sale, eight earring styles range in price from $2,000 to $7,500, including the striking Tickle Me Feather in 18ct gold plate ($7,500, third picture) and the sculptural Carnaval à Venise ($2,000, fourth picture), while two watch styles will retail for $600 each, thereby putting the jewels of JAR within more of his adoring fans’ reach.

A gemological blockbuster in the making.

37 Extreme Actives: one pot anti-ageing wonder?

The power of an all-in-one, emollient-rich anti-ageing cream

When it comes to high-end beauty products, the school run isn’t necessarily the first place I tend to look. But it was here that I was introduced to 37 Extreme Actives anti-ageing cream (£225), an anti-ageing wonder cream by Dr Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas MD PhD, which another mum swore was the key to “holding on to middle age”. She looks terrific and it was her desire to maintain her age-appropriate visage – rather than trying to look like a plumped-up teenager – that piqued my interest in the nutrient-rich product.

Before I put anything on my highly sensitive, rosacea-prone face, I do my research. This generally means that I use only simple, non-irritating cleansers and creams, and they must all have some sort of scientific backing. I was intrigued by Dr Alexiades-Armenakas’s bona fides: she holds three degrees from Harvard, including a PhD in genetics; was a Fulbright scholar, is a professor at the Yale University School of Medicine; and has consulted for L’Oréal on its anti-ageing formulations. Bottom line: scientific credentials – tick.

One month into my regimen and I am a convert to her all-in-one, emollient-rich lotion that I now use morning and night. I’ve learned a lot about actives – “ingredients that produce an intended action” – and how Dr Alexiades-Armenakas’s particular concoction actually works. Starting with a natural ingredient list that is sourced almost entirely from plants (versus those manufactured in a chemistry lab), 37 Extreme Actives is also free of parabens, colours and excess fragrance.

Unlike many formulations, this one delivers on the claim that it works in a matter of minutes, days and weeks. Minutes? Seriously. After the first use, my red cheeks were visibly calmer – which I assume is down to its combination of Bisabolol, coffee, yerba mate tea and feverfew. Within days I saw my crow’s feet become slightly less pronounced (could it be the complex peptides?) and now, in week four, my brown spots from past sun sins are starting to fade. It’s a knockout cocktail of antioxidants, Resveratrol, plankton and blue algae (for DNA defence) and soy and glycerine (for old-fashioned moisture). The result? My skin is, quite simply, rejuvenated.

In addition to short-term effects, 37 Extreme Actives promises to reverse wrinkling, restore cellular generation and create a stronger barrier to harsh pollutants over the long haul. For now, it allows me to apply just one cream versus many serums and substances, and there are no lasers, needles or foreign components involved – uplifting indeed.

Sublime sushi in Paris

Kinugawa: a Right Bank temple of haute Japanese cuisine

When the frites and foie grasget too much for a gourmet visiting Paris, a little light, refined sushi might just be the order of the day. On a recent trip to the City of Light, I had the pure joy of eating at Kinugawa – a revered institution of haute Japanese cuisine – that has been recently redesigned by Gilles & Boissier in a graphic, cutting-edge style that is almost as interesting as the food itself. Dramatic murals, pointillist paintings, a black granite bar and bronze mirrors set the stage for what can best be described as theatrical cuisine.

After passing through the restaurant’s double doors, we were escorted to the sleek bar area for classic cocktails. The chic leather banquette seating is the perfect perch for watching the stylish parade pass by. Kinugawa is divided into distinct spaces and dinner is best enjoyed in a vast first-floor dining room with subtly textured walls, spare surfaces and greige chairs – all which take their cue from nature. The whole Kinugawa experience is a study in exquisite finishes and chic contrasts – dark cedar with lighter woods, polished stone and glass – which extends right up to l’Atelier, the intime sushi bar upstairs.

I would be hard-pressed to pick favourites from the menu, but if pushed, I’d say appetisers of delicate king crab in ponzu sauce (€28) and ultra-thin slices of maguro with with yuzu and white truffle oil (€18). This is simply my kind of dining: flavourful, beautifully presented and fundamentally healthy. Plates of sushi and sashimi were followed by vegetables prepared in innovative ways – ohitashi (spinach) with mushrooms, haricots verts in sesame sauce (both €10) – and some of the best chicken gyoza (€13) I’ve ever tasted. But it was the fish entrees – black miso cod (€32) and a Chilean sea bass (€29) in particular that have really stuck in my foodie memory. I realise that these mains can be found on many an Asian menu today, but Kinugawa’s renditions – light, juicy steaks of fish – might just be my last meal on earth, should I ever have to choose one.

I couldn’t possibly have had dessert, as the umpteen small plates made for an enormous feast, yet with just a refreshing herbal tea to cap the meal, I left Kinugawa feeling thoroughly sated… almost ready to face tomorrow’s croque monsieur.

Genius in a bottle: MCMC Fragrances

Bespoke perfumes from a bijou Brooklyn atelier

From humble beginnings in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, to a place on the shelves of Paris’s Colette and Tokyo’s Asoom, MCMC Fragrances’ founder Anne Serrano-McClain has quietly, but confidently, begun to make a name for herself among the perfume cognoscenti. A graduate of the prestigious Grasse Institute of Perfumery, she specialises in small batches of artisanal scent – many bespoke – that are created in-house.

Bespoke creations are a deceptively simple mix of just 10 to 20 ingredients, built around one of the main perfume families – citrus, wood or floral. Once Serrano-McClain has assessed her client’s affections for the various foundation options, she begins to build the scent with a delicate top note such as bergamot or cherry blossom, middle florals and a base note of sandalwood or vetiver. Those able to visit the Brooklyn studio can take part in a lesson in the art of perfume-making as they watch the process unfold before them – while those commissioning a scent from afar receive a beautiful box full of samples and scent strips to kick off the creative process.

“I enjoy working with clients to create their vision,” explains Serrano-McClain. “At the moment I am working with a jewellery designer who has long had a signature scent that her friends know her by. We are taking the musky base from this scent and combining it with rich floral notes that she encountered on a recent trip to Sicily.”

In addition to customised perfume, MCMC also offers a line of eight fragrances ($95 for 40ml) – Garden, Hunter (third picture), Kept, Love, Maine, Maui, Noble (second picture) and Phoenix, as well as cedar-wood inflected Dude No 1 Beard Oil ($65 for 30ml) and Dude No 1 Cologne ($75 for 30ml) – that often serve as a creative springboard for Serrano-McClain’s one-off commissions. Her special compositions – eau de parfum and perfume oils – are priced from $2,500 for a 50ml bottle, with refills at $275 each.

“When I discovered perfume, I realised this was the perfect medium for me as an artist,” says Serrano-McClain. “I’m interested in the way memories have a haze around them, how reality becomes ethereal and infused with meaning and romanticism. This is what I am hoping to convey through my fragrances.”

Annabelle Selldorf talks personal taste: Part One

Architect to the art world Annabelle Selldorf designs museums, private homes and exhibition spaces, including those for the Gagosian and David Zwirner galleries

My personal style signifier is a ring that I wear every day. It was designed for me by Rudolf Klein, a jeweller working in Cologne, and it is a beautiful combination of rose gold with a yellow sapphire. I have a clear, spare style and this special ring works with everything I wear. St Apern-Strasse 4, 50667 Cologne (+49221-254 961).

Selldorf’s G Lorenzi horn money clip | Image: Dorothy Hong

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Arles, in the south of France. I went to visit the LUMA Foundation and found the Provençal landscapes and the local architecture to be magnificent. I stayed at the India Mahdavi-designed hotel Le Cloître, which has an intimate feel and delicious food, and that made my trip even more special. From €160; 18 Rue du Cloître, 13200 Arles (+334-8809 1000; www.hotel-cloitre.com).

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is fleur de sel from Camargue, bought at the wonderful Saturday food market in Arles. Although I could probably buy this delicious sea salt in a gourmet shop in New York, I love that it reminds me of that trip – just a little bit – every day. Le Marché d’Arles, Boulevard des Lices and Boulevard Clémenceau.

Anthony Aiden Opticians in New York

An object I would never part with is a money clip made of horn that I bought at G Lorenzi in Milan many years ago. I use a money clip every day in place of a wallet, and I find this one to be particularly tactile and just very cool. Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan (+3902-7602 2848; www.lorenzi.it).

An island in the Oshidori-ike Pond at Ryoanji temple in Kyoto, Japan | Image: Shutterstock/Jonah Anderson

The last item I added to my wardrobe is a pair of midnight-blue Céline loafers that work perfectly with the trousers and suits I tend to favour. These are inspired by men’s loafers, but have a silver chain across the top that adds a little something special. www.celine.com.

Selldorf’s Rudolf Klein ring | Image: Dorothy Hong

The best gift I’ve given recently was an outdoor ping-pong table to some friends for their home in Maine. This German‑engineered table is made of aluminium, has a beautiful blue top, heavy-duty wheels and is made to withstand the elements. From $999; www.kettlerusa.com.

A recent “find” is the Japanese restaurant Neta in the West Village. Everything there is out of this world – the chef’s omakase menu, the spectacular service, the intimate space – and it just left me feeling happy. I especially liked the sleek, elevated bench-table that is central to the restaurant, as well as the fact that the place isn’t trying too hard. 61 West 8th Street, New York, NY 10011 (+1212-505 2610; www.netanyc.com).

The last music I downloaded was Mutatis Mutandis by Nona Hendryx. I think her R&B music is soulful and interesting, and I just love her voice. www.nonahendryx.com.

The beauty staples I’m never without are Pratima’s Pitta Essential Oil and Pitta Herbal Cleanser – they do wonders for the face and smell like jasmine and sandalwood. I also have a slab of Aesop soap in my bath; it is the most luxurious one I know. Aesop Body Cleansing Slab, £17; www.aesop.com. Pratima Pitta Essential Oil, $36, and Pitta Herbal Cleanser, $19; www.pratimaskincare.com.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the East Village in New York. I love Barnyard for its selection of artisanal cheeses, cured meats and delicious sandwiches, and Juice Press for freshly squeezed juices. St Mark’s Bookshop has an incredible selection of printed material and is open late, and I always buy my glasses at Anthony Aiden Opticians, just around the corner. Anthony Aiden Opticians, 42 St Mark’s Place, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-533 1577; www.anthonyaidenopticians.com). Barnyard, 149 Avenue C, New York, NY 10009 (+1212-674 2276; www.barnyardcheese.com). Juice Press, 70 East 1st Street, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-777 0034; www.juicepress.com). St Mark’s Bookshop, 31 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-260 7853; www.stmarksbookshop.com).

The site that inspires me is Kyoto. The architecture and gardens there are so sophisticated. My favourite place is Ryoanji, a Zen temple with an exquisite rock garden; I think it’s the most beautiful place in the world, and it informs my own simple aesthetic. www.ryoanji.jp.

Annabelle Selldorf talks personal taste: Part Two

The architect wraps up her style file with Native rubber shoes, WG Sebald novels and “drunken noodles”

My style icon is Miranda Brooks, the great landscape designer and my dear friend. She is not only unbelievably intelligent and beautiful, she also has incredible style and an unequivocal eye. Her look is effortless – she has a natural ease and, while our styles are very different, I find myself aspiring to be like her. +1212-228 3623; www.mirandabrooks.com.

An indulgence I would never forego is fried eggs and bacon at Viand on Madison Avenue. Whenever I am in this Upper East Side area I make a point of eating here, because I love both the food and the atmosphere. I find the whole scene amusing and it makes me feel connected to the city. 673 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10021 (+1212-751 6622).

Landscape designer Miranda Brooks | Image: WireImage

The books on my bedside table are The Redeemer by Jo Nesbø, a very cool thriller set in Oslo, and My Beloved World by Supreme Court justice Sonia Sotomayor, a humanist who thinks and articulates beautifully. I am also never without a WG Sebald book and am currently finishing The Rings of Saturn, which provides a fascinating tour across the English countryside.

The best gift I’ve received recently is a pair of rubber shoes by Native that are just perfect for walking my dog on rainy days. They are lightweight and breathable and never, in a million years, would I have thought to buy them for myself. Jefferson shoes, $45; www.shop.nativeshoes.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was a smart-yet-sturdy MZ Wallace leather pouch that functions as a clutch. It is made of black leather, has colourful stitching, braided details and a cool copper zip. It also works well when thrown into a larger bag, as it is the ideal size for money and keys. $225; www.mzwallace.com.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a book entitled Louis I Kahn: 1901-1974, by Maria Bonaiti. I know the writer and, as Kahn is a revered architect, this book will make an important addition to my extensive library.  

Selldorf’s MZ Wallace leather pouch, $225 | Image: Dorothy Hong

The last meal that truly impressed me was at a private home on an island in Maine. A chef named Oliver Outerbridge cooked an enormous wok dish full of “drunken noodles” with meat and vegetables over an open fire for 40 guests. In addition to the meal being delicious, his spectacular performance and the seaside setting made it even more special. +1207-699 6302.

Artist Ad Reinhardt working on a painting | Image: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Ad Reinhardt. I love his somewhat rare black paintings and the subtlety that emanates from these works. His paintings are fundamentally minimalist – they speak to me and force me to look deeply.

My favourite room in my house is the living room. It is the largest space in my apartment and I like everything about it – the proportions, the art that fills the room and the Vica furnishings. A focal point is a small wall sculpture by Donald Judd that I just love. www.vicadesign.com.

Louis I Kahn: 1901-1974 by Maria Bonaiti

In my fridge you’ll always find eggs and not very much else. I eat eggs at all times of the day – for breakfast, lunch and dinner – and like them prepared in all ways, with just a pinch of good salt. In addition, I always have butter to cook them with, and you’ll also typically find a bottle of French Pinot Noir as well. I prefer heavier wines in the winter months and lighter, white Arneis varieties when the weather warms up.

The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are my friend David Palin, a stylist who cuts my hair when I am in London, and my wonderful Pilates instructor, Alissa Alter, at Form Pilates in New York. She’s very precise and funny, and this goes a long way in getting me to exercise. Alissa Alter, +646-237 6928; www.alissaalter.com. David Palin, 07976-327 566.

If I didn’t live in New York City, the city I would live in is Venice. I like the complexity of the place as well as the art, architecture, language and light. I find the Gallerie dell’Accademia to be particularly inspiring, and I like shopping for books about glass and glassmaking at Le Stanze del Vetro bookshop. My favourite meal is at Da Fiore, which serves delicious pasta with clams and mussels, and I also enjoy a glass of prosecco at one of many neighbourhood bars. I love to explore this city and find the rhythm of life – not to mention the slight melancholy – fascinating. Da Fiore, Calle del Scaleter Sestiere San Polo 2202, 30125 Venice (+39041-721 308; www.dafiore.net).Gallerie dell’Accademia, Campo della Carità 1050, 30123 Venice (+39041-520 0345; www.gallerieaccademia.org). Le Stanze del Vetro, Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore1,30124 Venice (+39041-522 9138; www.lestanzedelvetro.it).

My favourite websites are the Chinati Foundation and the Judd Foundation, both for beautiful design and interesting content. I also like The Architectural League of New York for information about new design, and Urban Omnibus, a site devoted to New York City and important contemporary architecture. www.archleague.org. www.chinati.org. www.juddfoundation.org. www.urbanomnibus.net.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a social anthropologist focused on the changes in culture in the western world. As an architect I do that naturally – study how people live and their cultural influences – but I would like more time to study and write about these things.

Rossana Orlandi’s Milan

The gallerist, curator and tastemaker transformed an abandoned factory in Milan into Spazio Rossana Orlandi in 2002. Today it is one of the world’s most cutting-edge design stores

Rossana Orlandi at Museo Bagatti Valsecchi | Image: Albrecht Tubke

“Weekends are my time to step away and not think about work or anything too serious. At home in Milan, Saturday begins at 7am with a leisurely breakfast of coffee, orange juice, toast and marmalade – in bed, listening to Mozart or Radio Monte Carlo. I scroll through the news on my iPad before heading off for a day of exploration with my husband, Guido. Our first stop is Chinatown and the area surrounding Via Paolo Sarpi. This neighbourhood has a traditional Italian feel blended with a strong Chinese community and it is full of charm.

We walk to the Macelleria Muuu, where the owner prepares meat in interesting ways and always has wonderful stories to tell. Then on to Corey’s Soul Chicken, a little store owned by the handsome Corey, who was a model for Valentino in the 1980s and now makes the most excellent fried chicken and potato salad. Our next stop is always Galleria Luisa delle Piane, run by my good friend Luisa. We share a similar aesthetic and chat about everything but work.  

Next comes the most important time of the day: lunch with our family, including grandchildren, nieces and nephews, at Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone. This is a wonderful place because all of the children can run around freely before eating their specially made panini.

Afterwards we might visit the Museum Bagatti Valsecchi to browse in the design shop that I opened there. There’s a Golden Hope Bird by Jaime Hayon that chirps a welcome to visitors and always puts me in a good mood. If the weather is nice we take the kids to the Parco Villa Reale, where we’ll meet friends and stroll through the gardens, or we might visit my beloved gallery. In either case, we are surrounded by friends and spend much of the day chatting.

Saturday evening is often spent going to the Cinema Anteo to watch films in their original language, followed by dinner at new pizzeria Dry, which was opened by my friend Tiziano Vudafieri. I absolutely love pizza and this place is beautiful and full of young people. We also like to see performances at the Teatro Franco Parenti, where you can enjoy spaghetti con salsa peperoni in the café. And if we’re not too tired, we might stop by the Blue Note, where Nick the Nightfly plays the best jazz in town.

On Sunday morning we go to the Chiesa di San Marco, where the priest and musical composer Don Luigi celebrates a vibrant mass with a sermon lasting just 10 minutes. It is the most wonderfully concise sermon you will ever hear! After the service, we head with friends to Bar Brera, where we talk about everything from exciting new areas of Milan to the latest restaurant and hotel openings. On the third Sunday of every month there is a chic flea market in Brera, where we find antiques, prints and vintage jewellery.

From here we will stroll to the Orto Botanico [botanical gardens], stopping at the Marc Jacobs café in Piazza del Carmine. They serve an excellent fillet steak here and it is also a central meeting point for many of our friends. For entertainment we often go to La Scala, where I take visiting guests to view the private rooms full of portraits of the stars, and I also arrange for special stage tours.

Sunday evenings are usually spent at the home of our friends, designer Stefano Giovannoni and his wife, Elisa. We all enjoy a dinner that is based on fresh fish, and the atmosphere is full of charm and creativity. Back at home, feeling happy and relaxed, I will start checking my emails and planning new projects for the week ahead. At 1am, after a bit of FreeCell solitaire on the iPad, I go to bed rested and refreshed.”

The handmade artistry of Igneous Skis

Sleek bespoke kit from Igneous Skis

Having lived and skied in myriad cold spots, from Jackson Hole, Wyoming, to Chamonix in France, and with an engineering background, Mike Parris knows a thing or two about navigating pistes with precision and aplomb. And the master ski and snowboard craftsman’s handmade artistry has garnered him a global following.

Image: © Jack Brauer (MountainPhotography.com)

From his co-op studio in West Jackson, Parris takes delight in working with a clientele that comes from as far away as Japan, New Zealand and Norway to commission one of the 80 pairs of skis and 40 boards he crafts each year for between $1,600 and $3,500. “I begin the design process with an interview,” says Parris. “I learn about where a person rides, their preferred terrain and snow conditions, as well as their overall athletic ability, and then I tailor the shape of the board around those factors.” After the shape has been designed, then the length, width, side-cut, taper and camber profile are all taken into consideration in order to enhance performance.

The process of building a custom board generally takes four to six weeks, as each one is comprised of at least 16 layers of hardwood – typically white ash, Douglas fir and maple – that must be built up with fibreglass for torsional rigidity, then laminated and cut and shaped by hand. Bookmatched hardwood top sheets are added to enhance sensitivity, though plastic varieties can be selected to absorb vibration and ensure a smoother ride. Custom inlays, from scenic peaks to a rider’s monogram, are an option, as are intricate, handpainted graphics for a final flourish.

“We design for specific terrain and conditions, so whether you’re skiing powder in the Tetons, or prefer off-piste in the Alps, we cater to riders who want more than the mass-produced options that are currently on the market,” says Parris. “Some people are looking to us for innovation, to come up with fresh designs to progress the sport. Others just want to re-create a ride that they know and love. The beauty of a custom shape is that it will never  ‘discontinued’ and you can have your favourite remade as often as you like.” With winter right around the corner, it’s time to get ready to shred…

Sorting the Wheatleigh from the chaff

A grand country-house hotel in the heart of Massachusetts

There are times when New York City life becomes a bit too frantic and an escape to a quieter, more bucolic setting is called for. When these occasions arise, I can think of no better place to unwind than at Wheatleigh, a 19th-century Florentine-style palazzo located in the heart of the Berkshire mountains of Massachusetts. I was introduced to it over 25 years ago by my stylish grandmother who, like this impressive mansion and its grounds, has something of Edith Wharton about her.

Together she and I would visit this statuesque property – a “summer cottage” given as a wedding present to the daughter of the wealthy industrialist Henry H Cook and now surrounded by 22 pristine acres – to enjoy a delicious meal in either of the boutique inn’s sumptuous restaurants. Summer lunches were enjoyed en plein air – either on the patio or in Adirondack chairs overlooking the Taconic mountains – while wintery visits afforded the chance to sit by roaring fireplaces and catch up.

Fast forward quarter of a century and I’ve recently returned to Wheatleigh, which has seen a thorough overhaul courtesy of the architecture and design team of Calvin Tsao and Zack McKown. Known for their neoclassical, restrained work, the duo has made this already-wonderful spot simply spectacular. The great hall entrance has been transformed with the addition of plush, crushed-velvet sofas in muted hues, and a neutral ambient palette in washes of sage through to cypress. The hotel’s 19 minimalist rooms have also been refurbished; flourishes include Parisian lights from Galerie des Lampes and antique Chinese leather boxes. White fire-clay baths from England, exquisite limestone floors and sumptuous linens are now standard, and the overall effect is calm and blessedly low-tech.

What does remain, thankfully, is the stellar cuisine. Guests are spoilt for choice in both the formal dining room (fourth picture) – with its soaring glass windows and Palladian columns, described as “part Philip Johnson’s Glass House, part Marie Antoinette’s Petit Trianon at Versailles” – and the convivial library cafe. The former’s food is sophisticated but not at all pretentious, with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients – Jamison Farm’s lamb, the hotel’s own heirloom tomatoes – offered in four-course menus ($125). My favourite spot, however, remains the library – a laid-back setting with lunches of house-made pasta, a perfectly crispy croque monsieur or classic fish and chips.

One of the best parts of Wheatleigh, in my opinion, is that it dazzles throughout the seasons. Its lush, rolling hills glint in summer, the leaves turn brilliant hues of red and orange in autumn and the winter scene is full of untracked, pristine snow fields.

Superior rooms, $885; terrace suite (second picture), $1,875; The Aviary suite, $2,100. Hawthorne Road, Lenox, Massachusetts 01240 (+1413-637 0610; www.wheatleigh.com).

Checking In: Old Stone Farm

Fathom contributing editor and B&B hater Christina Ohly checked into Old Stone Farm, a beautiful, new inn/spa/holistic healing center a few hours north of New York City. And just like that, she's singing the hippie tune.

HUDSON VALLEY, New York – I am not generally one for a B&B — or any kind of creaky-floored communal living, for that matter — so my recent visit to Old Stone Farm, a hotel that opened about six weeks ago near bucolic Rhinebeck, New York, took me completely by surprise. I have explored this picturesque part of the Hudson Valley at length. It is full of beautiful scenery, great farmers' markets, and endless culture (music, theatre, and historic homes), but there has always been a lack of great (do not read "fancy") places to stay. But with the addition of Old Stone Farm, a ten-room inn, spa, and holistic healing center, the area's accommodations are really looking up. The brainchild of Sherry Kahn and her late husband Stu, the property is full of wonderful old barns, a yoga studio, lofty spaces for quiet contemplation, and cozy bedrooms.

One of many cozy common spaces.

CHECK IN, CHECK OUT

You drive through the massive split fence gates onto 236 acres of horse farm. It's as beautiful as you can imagine. You're surrounded by natural beauty everywhere: in the gardens and maple groves, by the swimming pond, and along the hiking trails. Your bags are whisked to your room and your car is valet parked, but there is nothing "hotel" about this place. The innkeeper's warm greeting gives the feeling that you've arrived at the estate of a gentleman farmer friend. The communal spaces — bright sitting rooms, reading nooks, a long dining table (a personal taboo, but somehow acceptable here) — encourage you to spread out as if you were in your own home. You're a guest at this intimate house party.

Equinox and Blue, two of the guest rooms.

The rooms has been lovingly restored down to the details — organic mattresses, Frette linens, extensive collections of American art, and high, exposed-beam ceilings in many rooms. Most are named for the farm's horses: Tidbit, Spirit, Secret, Duke, and Hawkins among them. The sprawling four-bedroom guesthouse is a great option for families and small groups.

The two cedar steam cabinets.

WELLNESS FOR ALL

Some of the best therapists in the Hudson Valley are on call to perform daily, wellness treatments like massages, energy healing treatments, facials, and wraps. Haute hippies, it turns out, give killer massages, and there are all kinds of craniosacral and soothing hot stone options that I never even knew existed. Coolest of all may be the two cedar steam cabinets — old school! completely rejuvenating! — that incorporate the principles of Ayurveda to cleanse and detoxify the body.

In the riding spaces.

The adrenaline is physical: Guests can use the indoor and oudoor horseback riding arenas and take energizing yoga classes in the 18th-century barn. And the adrenaline is mental: A series of constantly changing workshops designed to educate and reinvigorate are integral to the Old Stone Farm ethos. There are weekend retreats — classes with noted yoga instructors, spa treatments, horseback riding — and courses, like the four-day "This Beautiful Wound: Grief as a Spiritual Path." It's all a little touchy-feely but in a subdued way. Guests feel encouraged to explore new topics and try new treatments.

A sampling of the inn's hearty, healthy food.

EAT LOCAL AND DELICIOUS

What is a weekend away without great food? Not much, I say. Chef Matt Gaines cooks three delicious meals a day, plus endless snacks and hors d'oeuvres, at Pop's Kitchen, a central building with a cozy dining room and an enormous, kitted out kitchen. Gaines uses locally sourced ingredients whenever possible and prepares sophisticated, flavorful cuisine. The housemade granola and a warming Davenport Farms corn soup with avocado, lime, and queso fresco are notable menu options. For lunch, the hearty, inventive veggie burgers made with French lentils, bulgur, cremini mushrooms, leeks, onions, and a barbecue glaze will tide you over until a dinner of braised chicken, seared halibut, or fresh pasta. Everything is imaginative and delicious, right down to the killer flourless chocolate with local strawberry sorbet.

The chef knows his clientele (gluten-free, vegan, everything in between) and can tailor his dishes to all sort of dietary requirements. Bottom line: The food is scrumptious, fresh, and filling. This is not an exercise in deprivation, but rather a place to be introduced to the bounties — freshly baked bread, Catsmo smoked salmon, local cheeses — of the surrounding area.

OFF-CAMPUS ADVENTURES

On the off chance that you want to leave this pleasant compound, head to nearby Rhinebeck. The nearby Culinary Institute of America produces top talent, and it shows on the restaurant scene. The Local serves creative mezes prepared with the freshest area foods. Market Street is a warm, bright spot with a wood-burning oven that turns out fantastic thin-crust pizzas like Caprina, with fig-rosemary spread, Coach Farms goat cheese, pear, arugula, and truffle oil, as well as juicy lamb chops with crispy fingerling potatoes.

A hiking trail for quiet contemplation.

For a gentle hike with stellar views, the two miles of trails along Poet's Walk meander through fields and along the Hudson River. Hiking, biking, cross-country skiing, and showshoeing are the seasonal activities of choice around here. Further north, you'll find Olana, the former home and gardens of the artist Frederic Edwin Church. The grounds are stunning, as are the Hudson River School paintings within. Seasonal events include everything from outdoor concerts to art classes. Hudson, a former shipping and manufacturing town, has been hipped up with the addition of mid-century modern galleries, clothing shops, and creative restaurants like Swoon Kitchen Bar, where kale salads and thick-cut BLT sandwiches are the orders of the day.

FIND IT

Old Stone Farm
2434 State Route 9G
Staatsburg, NY 12580
+1-845-876-3977

GETTING THERE

Two hours from New York City via Amtrak or by car along the Taconic Parkway.

LA confidential

An under-the-radar sky-high haunt in the City of Angels

When I travel to Los Angeles, I love to get hefty doses of old-school Hollywood glamour and delicious SoCal cuisine. I recently found both of these in spades at the quietly chic Terrace restaurant at Sunset Tower (second picture), a deco-gem of a hotel on bustling Sunset Boulevard. The historic hotel – formerly The Argyle, whose residents included Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra – sits amid the music clubs, sex shops and omnipresent Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf emporiums of this slightly run-down neighbourhood, but it is an oasis of calm offering dazzling views of the LA skyline. And its shaded terrace and pool (first picture) catches the breeze as it skims the city.

I tend not to venture far from the seashore when I am on the West Coast (and those of you who understand the traffic issues that plague LA will understand my reluctance to navigate the 405 Freeway), but I made an exception during my recent visit and met a friend at The Terrace for lunch.

The place is a destination spot (let’s just say there isn’t a lot of foot traffic in this area) and something of a well-kept secret among entertainment-industry insiders, who value its muted tones and Hôtel du Cap vibe. And the food, too, is a pleasure – simple, hearty, imaginative and full of the freshest ingredients. Hotelier Jeff Klein conceived every part of this operation – from the elegant chaises longues by the pool to the signature ciabatta club sandwich ($16) with a filling of grilled chicken, crispy bacon, roasted tomatoes, rocket and onions.

I could have ordered most things on the menu – a selection of classic comfort food, including that most Californian of dishes, the Lobster Cobb salad ($28), as well as Le Hot Dog ($14), a kosher frankfurter with grilled onions and sauerkraut, and The Tower Burger ($22), complete with “secret sauce” on a brioche bun. However, the rather more reserved Grilled Shrimp & Quinoa salad ($24) and Ahi Niçoise salad ($26) with truffle vinaigrette were my choice for a light lunch.

I enjoyed a glass of rosé – Côtes de Provence Les Domaniers 2011 ($55 a bottle) – though a bit of me was tempted by one of the Terrace’s chocolate milkshakes ($12).

8358 West Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90069 +1323-654 7100; www.sunsettowerhotel.com

Stationery master

Papers, pens and prints on the Amalfi Coast

I am not generally one to seek a concierge’s opinion when it comes to shopping, but I made an exception on a recent trip to the Amalfi Coast because the hotel I stayed at – the Hotel Caruso in Ravello – was the height of elegance and tasteful style, and I just knew their picks would be spot-on. Such was the case with La Scuderia del Duca, a tiny gem of a stationers located in the shadow of Amalfi’s spectacular Duomo. It could be easily missed, but those who find it will discover a cache of handmade writing papers, ink pens, seals and wax seals, as well as maps and prints, art tomes and exquisite 19th-century antiques.

A narrow, unassuming storefront gives way to a light, bright space. Part workshop, part gallery, it is lovingly curated by Andrea De Luca and Giovanna Fusco, who have amassed a fascinating breadth of offerings from a mix of periods and styles, including Grand Tour watercolours juxtaposed with boxed sets of modern notecards bearing the subtle watermarks of local paper mills (€50.50 for 50 cards).

Ever a fool for stationery – especially the beautifully made Italian variety – I stocked up on everything from painters’ packs of pH-neutral, acid-free, ivory paper with frayed edges (€14 for 10 sheets) to sets of Quadrato and Lily of the Valley lace-patterned notecards (€17.50). I also discovered mini folded cards (€7.50) featuring floral motifs created by laser fretwork, which I fancied as place cards, as well as a colourful array of glass pens (€12 each) and inks in shades of gold, turquoise and a brilliant bordeaux (€6.50 each) – all bottled with cork lids and sealed with wax.

For those not worried about travelling light, there are calfskin-leather photo albums (from €76) with thick, ivory pages and acid-free tissue papers, as well as hand-sewn notebooks (from €51) for sketching (in my case, the picturesque coastline). A medieval-inspired range of notebooks (€122) featuring soft covers, as well as more traditional marbled-paper and leather versions (from €42), round out the journal offerings, while books decorated with fish, galleons, mermaids or vibrant sea coral (from €8.50) make for a more unusual choice of seaside souvenirs.

But what truly wows is La Scuderia del Duca’s Plexiglas floor (first picture) – a contemporary touch that allows a view of the endless stacks of multicoloured paper below – and floods the space with light. It is just one more unexpected touch in a shop that seamlessly melds old-world techniques and materials with a design sensibility that is thoroughly of the moment.

Turkish delight

An online cache of high-quality soaps, towels and bedding from Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar

I first discovered Abdulla, a bath-and-body shop secreted away in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, after an epic adventure through labyrinthine market stalls. Since it is unlikely that I’ll be returning there anytime soon, I was thrilled to discover its online cache of towels, rugs, soaps and slippers. What the site perhaps lacks in atmosphere, it more than makes up for in quality craftsmanship.

Hand-finished peştamel towels (TL55-TL200, about £17-£63) in neutral tones with subtle navy, black and rich Morrocan-red accents (example fourth picture, about £17) are boiled in olive oil to soften the raw silk and cotton, and are quite simply a cut above. They top the towel offerings, although other standouts include those made from 100 per cent cotton (about £9.50) or rainbow linen with hand-tied tassels (about £14).

Natural bath accessories, such as knitted-linen wash gloves (about £14), sponges (about £11), pumice sets (third picture, about £12.50) and Takunya clogs made of oriental hornbeam (first picture, about £54), all bring a bit of the hammam home. Wonderful Turkish oil-soaps in hand-woven cylinders (about £11) come with traditional glass evil-eye charms, while unpretentious soap blocks (about £2) are available in rose, cinnamon, lavender (fifth picture) and olive.

Hero pieces include the woven-hemp rugs from eastern Turkey (about £285), the bold kilims (about £252-£316) and patchwork-leather throws made of antelope skins and cowhides (about £380). However, the ultimate indulgence for me are the sets of linen bedding (about £184 for six pieces, including coverlet, bed sheet and four pillow cases) that come in crisp white, grey and a subtle shade of lilac (second picture).

Much like happening upon this shop in its magical maze, this site is a real find. Unlike the bazaar, however, you can bookmark it easily and have items delivered to your door, no bartering required.

Oyster time is nigh…

An American seafood bar’s unforgettable classics with a sophisticated twist

Image: Doug Merriam

Eventide – the transition between day and night – is an apt name for the bustling oyster bar in the Old Port of Portland, Maine, where I happily whiled away an evening sampling some of America’s finest oysters. At its central granite bar, shuckers’ labours make for great theatre and briny Winterpoint Selects are the house speciality. As oyster season is nigh, I can’t recommend it highly enough.

Chefs Andrew Taylor and Mike Wiley have won many awards in the year since the restaurant opened – just one taste of their house-made pickles and sophisticated clam chowder with salt pork, and it’s easy to see why. Unsurprisingly, oysters on the half shell figure prominently – with nine varieties from Maine and another nine “from away” ($28 for a full dozen). A summer menu of cold items, including a refreshing Peekytoe-crab salad ($12), local halibut crudo ($11) and greens with nori vinaigrette ($7), were gleefully shared among our group.

Lovers of the classics – lobster roll ($12), fried chicken ($7) and thick sea-bass steaks – will not be disappointed by Eventide’s take on these perennial favourites. I like to think of myself as something of a connoisseur of the lobster roll – the proper ratio of meat to soft bun is key – and Eventide’s is, without exception, the best I’ve ever tasted. The restaurant’s upscale creations come with a choice of condiments – house mayo, a light hollandaise, or the brown-butter vinaigrette that I opted for, which lent a tangy, deliciously salty twist.

Savoury cocktails (from $9) washed down the food with aplomb: tequila-infused Bloody Marias, Celery Gimlets and Dirty Dirty Martinis made with oyster brine were some of the highlights sampled by our thirsty crew.

After an enormous supper in this bright, convivial setting, I was nervous of even broaching the topic of dessert. I manned up, however, and a slice of strawberry and rhubarb pie ($7) was sweetly sumptuous enough to be unforgettable.

All in all, this was a meal that is now etched on my sensory memory.

Up to standard

Innovative, unusual homewares with industrial-design flair

Bottle-openers aren’t usually items that draw a crowd, but those at Fort Standard’s e-tail outlet are an exception. Created by Brooklyn-based designers Gregory Buntain and Ian Collings and cast in solid brass, the Crest openers (first picture, from $44 each) and the Crown openers ($80) have a sculptural tactility that’s compelling. And they’re just some of an appealing pick-and-mix of offbeat items made by the duo.

The online emporium – an offshoot of the Fort Standard contemporary industrial-design studio and product-consultancy agency – features ready-to-buy highlights. Bijoux homeware steals the limelight, from geometric-disc candleholders cut from stone and finished with leather on the undersides ($48) to a trio of glass vessels with cork stoppers topped with turned-hardwood handles ($240). Like the bottle-openers, these are simple yet striking pieces.

Fort Studio’s ready-made furniture and lighting provide a taste of the larger collections that can be commissioned and customised to suit a client’s needs. The exquisite Grade stools ($250) showcase the firm’s attention to detail and masterful joinery, while the Foundation lights ($375) are ethereal toadstool-esque creations crafted from marble and wood. These smaller objects merely hint at the full wow factor of the metal Sprue candelabras (second picture, from $2,400), the Column dining table (third picture, $7,500) and the Plane mirror (from $1,900) that are also part of the pair’s more wide-ranging oeuvres.

The name Fort Standard is a fusion of Fort Greene, Brooklyn, where the artists trained, and their “commitment to a high-quality product and high aesthetics”, explains Collings. And indeed, this e-shop does set a particular standard in superior product design – it’s certainly something to drink to, so that bottle-opener will come in handy.

The Dunn thing

A Rhode Island designer’s online collection of mid-century-modern-inspired furniture

Although only in the third year of working under his own brand, Studio DUNN, artist and designer Asher Dunn has a robust following – which is set to increase now that his mid-century-modern-inspired pieces can be bought from his chic online shop.

The Rhode Island-based designer has already received numerous honours, including Best New Designer at the 2010 International Contemporary Furniture Fair, and his site gathers his collection together for a global clientele. Tables, chairs and shelving are hewn from sustainable American timber selected for their unique grain and colour; recycled metals such as brass, steel and aluminium play a key role in design; and the glass used is blown by local artisans using traditional skills. Joinery is exquisite and the finishes sleek. The result is a stunning Scandinavian-style simplicity.  

Scene-stealing are the lights, from a jellyfish-inspired Radiata pendant lamp in opal white or smoke-grey glass (first picture, $2,100 each) to a Sorenthia light ($790 each), a collection of which can be grouped in myriad configurations, creating a dynamic conceptual art piece.

Much of Studio DUNN’s furniture has been inspired by – and named after – New England towns and geography, such as an elegant Newport dining table (price on request) made from laminated walnut, cherry or ash, a bentwood Barrington chair (third picture, price on request), sleek Coventry stools (second picture, $530), Kingstown barstools ($890) and a streamlined Bristol console table ($2,980). Each could work equally well in relaxed or upscale settings. “The question of how you bring nature into your home is part of the overarching query I pose as a designer,” explains Dunn. Another of the site’s particular highlights is a hand-finished porcelain Quonset dish ($21) – a striking platter designed for sushi.

Its constantly changing inventory and limited-edition pieces make this an e-shop worth returning to again and again.

Chic Vibes and Picture-Perfect Views in Capri

After spending a few days in Ravello, contributing editor Christina Ohly and her family went to Capri for the quintessential experience: fresh seafood, lots of chilling out, intense people watching, and picture-perfect views.

CAPRI, Italy – With its effortless chic vibe and endless blue vistas, Capri is about as close to Nirvana as you're likely to get. Best enjoyed in the shoulder seasons (late spring and early fall), it's a magical place full of natural and archaeological wonders, not to mention delicious food and first-rate hotels. If you're in the market for complete relaxation (and unparalleled people watching), you'll find it on this island.

The Venetian salon at Villa San Michele. Photo: Peter de Ru.

WHAT TO DO

Chill
Relaxation is the name of the game on Capri, with the odd shopping excursion, ice cream cone, and cultural detour thrown in for good measure. The sun is intense and the temperatures soar in the summer months, so come armed with plenty of lightweight clothing, serious sunscreen, and a stack of old New Yorkers or a few good books. Capri is the epitome of la dolce vita, and you'll want to surrender to the preferred island activity of not doing very much at all.

Take to the Seas
While you will have taken a ferry to reach Capri, a small, chartered tour of the island by boat (preferably a Riva) is a wonderful way to experience the azure Tyrrhenian Sea. Many hotels can arrange for the use of their own boats: Capri Palace will rent the owner's 65-foot South Wind for the day.

Capri's biggest attraction is the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto), a coastal sea cave that is flooded with brilliant blue light. Yes, it's beautiful. But be warned: It is also teeming with tourists.

A bedroom in Villa San Michele. Photo: Peter de Ru.

Commune with the Ancients
I wish I'd known about the Villa San Michele before my last day, because this museum and park really should be explored at great length. Built on the ruins of Emperor Tiberius' villa by the Swedish doctor, Axel Munthe, this magnificent spread sits atop a promontory overlooking the sea and houses moss-covered relics, ancient columns, and statuary at every turn. The house is comprised of beautiful loggias, atria, bedrooms, a wonderful kitchen, and an embellished chapel. Within these rooms you'll find over a thousand objects — Etruscan antiquities, Renaissance choir stalls — that Dr. Munthe sourced from all over Europe during his lifetime.

The compound (complete with bird sanctuary) is now overseen by the Swedish state and there is, I swear, a Nordic design sensibility to the whole place. The lush gardens are the perfect place to relax, and I only regret not seeing one of the beautiful, open-air concerts that the villa is so well known for. Before any visit, track down a copy of Dr. Munthe's The Story of San Michele, as fascinating today as it was when it was originally published in 1928.

Another archaeological gem is Villa Jovis, a Roman site completed in 29 AD that is accessible by a footpath and provides views of local homes and flourishing gardens along the way.

Custom sandals are a Capri tradition. Photos: Christina Ohly.

Slip into Italian Kicks
Sandals are the best retail game in town, especially those custom-made to your specifications. My favorite shoemaker is Antonio Viva, whose shop, L'Arte del Sandalo Caprese, is located on the main street in Anacapri. A larger-than-life personality, Antonio tends his shop from morning till dusk, making personalized sandals in every imaginable color and style. Go for the Roman classic, a flat sandal, or a jewel-encrusted party shoe. Either way, you'll feel like you're getting a bespoke product — in just fifteen minutes flat.

Second choice — Jackie O's favorite, Canfora. Lovely kicks, but slightly more expensive than Viva's. (You'll find even more expensive sandals throughout Capri.)

Look the Part from the Feet Up
In addition to fine footwear, Capri is also full of shops selling locally made linen items. My favorites are the sheer varieties in hues of blue and white by Puro Lino. Perfect for warm summer evenings and presents. Simple hand towels as well as linen cover-ups and clothing can be found at 100% Capri, a boutique specializing in separates in muted tones.

For pricey jewels, head to Grazia Vozza, specialists in chunky pieces made from exquisite jade, amethyst, and amber. The work of two sisters, Grazia Vozza makes statement-making pieces that will look great with the floaty caftan you'll be sporting poolside.

WHERE TO EAT

Morning Fuel
You don't exactly need "fuel" to enjoy the leisurely pace of life on Capri. We loved the breakfast spread — meats, cheeses, fruit, delicious breads, and local honey — at the Caesar Augustus' pool-level restaurant. With spectacular patios off most rooms, this is also a great spot to order room service. Croissants with a view of the Bay of Naples: not bad.

Lunch on the patio at J.K. Place. Photo: Courtesy of J.K. Place.

Lunch
Now this is the highlight of any Italian day, and much thought must go into the planning, consumption, and digestion of the meal. In Anacapri, the cliffside Lucullo Terrace at Caesar Augustus is hard to beat for its panini, light pastas, and views of Mount Vesuvius. In fact, it doesn't really matter what you eat. The scenery is truly breathtaking.

The finest overall game in town, however, is the patio at J.K. Place, situated down by Marina Grande. Lunch can last for hours (if you're lucky), as you'll be tended to by the most attentive staff, and, in many instances, by the wonderful manager, Simone Giorgi, who is happy to chat about everything from Italian football to the hotel's killer spa treatments. The meal consists of endless bread baskets (don't miss their grissini), delicious club sandwiches, and caprese salads — all with views of frolicking families on the rocky beach below. (No, you won't ever get tired of the views here.) Make time to sit by the beautifully designed pool (sans children) or hit the J.K. Spa, a sleek and peaceful sanctuary that does relaxing treatments (I'm going back for the pro-collagen quartz facial) and carries Santa Maria Novella products that I never knew existed. A day built around a meal at J.K. Place is pure bliss.

No lunch is complete without gelato. Some of Capri's finest flavors can be found at Gelateria Buonocore (35 Via Vittorio Emanuele; +39-081-837-7826) where stracciatella and chocolate hazelnut are the best bets.

Photo: Courtesy of Da Paolino.

Dinner
The options are endless, but a few of my favorites included Le Grottelle (Via Arco Naturale; +39-081-837-5719), a casual trattoria/pizzeria steps from the famed, monolithic Arco Naturale. This spot is reached by a gentle twenty-minute walk along the coast that begins at Tragara Point. By the time you reach the top, you are rewarded with stunning views of the Amalfi Coast and the Galli Islands, noto to mention Mama Rosa's homemade ravioli and the simply prepared catch of the day.

Family-owned Da Gelsomina is another culinary highlight recommended by the ever-tasteful staff at J.K. Place. Great views of Ischia; delicious spaghetti alla chiummenzana.

For the ultimate dose of dolce vita head straight for Faraglioni to dine under traditional pagliarelle (straw canopies) and watch the beautiful people go by. Located at the end of the elegant Via Camerelle in central Capri, this is a great spot to savor a cocktail and a fine lemon risotto.

Also fabulous: Ristorante Aurora, an island favorite that draws the likes of Giorgio Armani for Neapolitan specialties like spaghetti alle vongole and thin-crust pizzas served in a chic, if very 1970s, setting.

Slightly cheesy but no less festive is Da Paolino, where dining under twinkling lemon trees is the order of the day. The real highlight for every child (and parent) is the dessert bar for torta caprese, the island's traditional flourless chocolate cake, and gelati galore. I am still in recovery.

Photo: Courtesy of Hotel Caesar Augustus.

WHERE TO STAY

If you're looking for value, then Hotel Caesar Augustus in Anacapri wins, hands-down. Part of the Relais & Chateaux group, this hotel is somewhat off the beaten path and enjoys an ideal cliff-top location in the relatively quiet village of Anacapri. Many rooms literally jut out over the water, as does the infinity pool that overlooks an endless blue expanse. The whole effect is supremely relaxing. Everything is overseen by Lucia Garau, a seasoned hotelier who is happy to help with boat transfers, sourcing the ultimate sandals, and everything in between.

For something more intime, opt for La Scalinatella, a 30-room boutique hotel that has rooms high above the sea. With its white and azure theme, Scalinatella feels very Capri, and its quiet location ensures a peaceful escape. Lunch by the pool is a major plus.

The penthouse and sitting room at stunning J.K. Place. Photos: Courtesy of J.K. Place.

If money is no object, then a stay at J.K. Place is a no-brainer. The entire set-up — from the lobby library to the communal breakfast room to the airy suites — is pure chic. Situated on a spit of land overlooking Marina Grande, the whole J.K. vibe is one of relaxed elegance. It's the perfect place to while away days in the sun or in their world-class spa. Sip Bellinis by the pool on your tasteful lounge chair-cum-couch or feast on the restaurant's patio. Either way, this place is pure glamour.

MAP IT

See all the locations mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

HOW TO GET THERE

Capri is not easily accessible, but it's certainly worth the effort. Fly to Rome and drive south to Naples where you will connect with a ferry to Capri (journey time approximately 5 hours). Frequent flights from London (British Airways, Alitalia, Easy Jet) to Naples make the trip easy for a long weekend.

FOR YOUR BEDSIDE TABLE

A few books and films that capture the essence of the island and surrounding area.

Books
In the Spirit of Capri, by Pamela Fiori
Red Sails To Capri, by Ann Weil
The Story of San Michele, by Dr. Axel Munthe
Greene on Capri: A Memoir, by Shirley Hazzard

Films
It Started in Naples (1960)
Paparazzi (1964)
The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999)

MORE ON FATHOM

Amalfi Coast and Capri Guide
Mediterranean Shop