A picture-postcard-perfect New England winter getaway
In Vermont’s Green Mountains, discover hospitality from a bygone era
In Vermont’s Green Mountains, discover hospitality from a bygone era
The first time I visited The Pitcher Inn – with my then boyfriend, some 15-plus years ago – we skidded off the road and ended up embedded in a snow bank. Nevertheless, it was a wonderful weekend and some years later that guy is now my husband and we’ve added two kids to the mix. When we were discussing a New England winter getaway – this time as a group – votes were cast for everything from snowshoeing to skiing off-piste to sitting quietly by a crackling fire, enjoying fine food and a hefty dose of tranquility (my request). The Pitcher Inn, with its porches and gables (second picture), spacious suites and old-world feel, ticked all the boxes – and then some.
In addition to being located in the picture-postcard-perfect Vermont village of Warren, complete with white church spires and a bustling general store, it is just minutes away from the downhill runs at both Mad River Glen and Sugarbush, two of the east coast’s best ski resorts.
After a lengthy drive (Warren is five hours from New York, three from Boston) we arrived late at night to a glowing inn that exuded warmth and charm. Originally a Civil War-era lodging house, the Pitcher Inn has been refashioned by local architect David Sellers, and the old – 19th-century oil lamps, vintage lift booths and toboggans – are seamlessly mixed with state-of-the-art technology and funky (at times) decor. Eleven guest rooms – each with a local theme such as Mountain (third picture), Lodge, or Ski (first picture; all from $325, including breakfast and afternoon tea) – offer vast beds with fine linens and all sorts of entertainments that kept everyone in our group thoroughly amused. Ours was the Ski room and, with its leather couches, vintage artwork and ski gear, not to mention a profusion of rough-hewn wood beams and birch accents, we felt utterly removed from city life.
Add to our luxurious surroundings incredible food and drink, and we’re talking one seriously restorative weekend. There are several dining options but my favourite was the casual Tracks tavern with its scrumptious Maplebrook Farm burrata with crostini ($14) and grilled-to-perfection Niman Ranch Steak with fries and aioli ($18). Despite its remote location, Vermont is a gourmand’s paradise (there’s a profusion of great, locally sourced produce – artisanal bakers, cheesemakers and brewers abound). The fine dining, fire-lit restaurant, 275 Main, was excellent, too. Noted chef Sue Schickler produced indescribably delicious seared sea scallops with a pistachio-English pea salad and lemon beurre blanc ($16) that I shall not soon forget. I won’t drone on about the desserts, but suffice to say, the hand-churned ice creams and pumpkin pot de crème ($10) were beyond compare.
With endless hiking trails, charming antiques shops and challenging slopes all within a hop, skip and a jump, this quintessential New England town has much to offer in any season, though I have a soft spot for a snowy winter stay. Regardless of time of year, what really sets The Pitcher Inn apart is the cheerful Vermonter staff. A visit there feels much like staying at an old friend’s house, albeit in a bygone era.
Mr Chow talks personal taste: Part One
Founder of his eponymous London restaurant, Mr Chow has overseen a global expansion that includes outposts in New York, Miami and LA
Founder of his eponymous London restaurant, Mr Chow has overseen a global expansion that includes outposts in New York, Miami and LA
My personal style signifier is my pair of Mr Chow Spectacles by Cutler and Gross. They are based on the style worn by architects such as IM Pei, and I have worn them for more than 15 years now. From £299; www.cutlerandgross.com.
Hermès tape measure, £285
The last thing I bought and loved was a miniature oil portrait by Peter Blake, a canvas depicting a young girl, which I bought at Christie’s. It has a very special place in my collection. www.christies.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a new tape measure by Hermès, to replace my old one. I carry this small, beautifully made leather measure with me wherever I go. £285; www.hermes.com.
The National Assembly Building in Dhaka, Bangladesh | Image: Getty Images/Science Faction
A recent “find” is the tiny Japanese restaurant Nishimura in Los Angeles. It is located in a serene little garden near the Pacific Design Center and was a completely unexpected surprise. They only serve sushi there, and it is delicious. 8684 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90069 (+1310-659 4770).
1920s Cla-Cla reading table by Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann
The site that inspires me is Louis Kahn’s National Assembly Building in Dhaka, Bangladesh. This majestic parliamentary building is set on the water, and the scale is breathtaking. Also inspirational to me are the chapel of Notre Dame du Haut – or “Ronchamp” – by Le Corbusier, and Gaudi’s Casa Milà in Barcelona.
Yo-Yo Ma Plays Ennio Morricone | Image: Simon Watson
The best gift I’ve given recently is a 1920s Cla-Cla reading table by Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann, which I bought at DeLorenzo Gallery for my wife, Eva. I consider Ruhlmann to be the greatest furniture designer of all time and I used to collect his work extensively. 956 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10021 (+1212-249 7575; www.delorenzogallery.com).
Mr Chow’s ink painting by Qi Baishi | Image: David Ash
And the best one I’ve received is a felt and leather Hermès throw that was given to me by my daughter, China, as a birthday gift. It fits beautifully over the top of a Jean Dunand lacquered table in my sitting room. www.hermes.com.
In my fridge you’ll always find assorted crudités, as well as a bottle of Krug champagne, which I regard as a great luxury. There is also a selection of ingredients for making breakfast, including eggs and Cheddar cheese for the egg-white omelettes I eat every day. www.krug.com.
The books on my bedside table are primarily about art. I am currently reading Lucio Fontana: The Artist’s Materials, about the work of this Argentine artist, and several books about Yves Klein, including Yves Klein: With the Void, Full Powers.
The last music I bought was the CD Yo-Yo Ma Plays Ennio Morricone. Morricone wrote the scores for nearly all of Sergio Leone’s movies, and I’m a big fan of his work. www.enniomorricone.it. www.yo-yoma.com.
An object I would never part with is an ink painting by the man I consider to be the greatest artist of the 20th century, Qi Baishi. My father was a Beijing opera actor and Qi Baishi created this “six fishes” work as a celebration of his 50 years on stage. This artwork and its inscription are incredibly special to me.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Basel, a wonderful city that mixes historical architecture with contemporary culture. I loved everything from its grand hotels to the efficient tram system, which reminds me of Shanghai. Among my highlights was the Renzo Piano-designed Beyeler Foundation that’s just outside the city, looking out over rolling hills. It features an incredible collection of works by Calder, Klee and Monet. Most of all, though, I like that this is a city best explored on foot, which makes for a nice change from life in Los Angeles. Baselstrasse 101, CH-4125 Riehen, Basel (+4161-645 9700; www.fondationbeyeler.ch).
The grooming staples I’m never without are Sulwhasoo’s Essential Skin Refiner and Moisturizing Fluid. I am not particular about shampoos or soaps, although I do think that the shape and size of a bar of soap matters. Aesthetics are very important to me. Essential Skin Refiner, $60, and Moisturizing Fluid, $50; us.sulwhasoo.com.
Mr Chow talks personal taste: Part Two
Poker, da Vinci and Hong Kong conclude the restaurateur’s personal style file
Poker, da Vinci and Hong Kong conclude the restaurateur’s personal style file
My style icon is the late actor Gary Cooper. He was beyond elegant, women loved him and his style was eternal. His sensibility, his walk and the way he carried himself are unmatched to this day.
My favourite room in my house is the “gold room”. Gold is typically vulgar, but it isn’t in this sitting room, which contains paintings by Peter Blake, sculptures and an original Murano chandelier that is quite spectacular. This space is a jewel within my house, and it is big, functional, and very well used.
Gary Cooper | Image: Everett Collection/Rex Features
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Balthazar in New York. I went for dinner recently and the restaurant was incredibly lively, and the mix of people was just right. The menu isn’t huge but they do everything so well. We had fruits de mer and steak frites – simple food, but very nostalgic and delicious. 80 Spring Street, New York, NY 10012 (+1212-965 1414; www.balthazarny.com).
An indulgence I would never forego is the game of poker. I think art and poker have a lot in common: you get certain highs and lows from both, and they each force you to exercise your mind. Poker requires split-second decision-making, and I like that you play against yourself.
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Leonardo da Vinci. The depth and beauty of his creations is simply apart from everyone else.
The last items of clothing I added to my wardrobe were six pairs of corduroy trousers in various colours that were custom-made for me by Hermès in Paris. All of those colours might have been a mistake... 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris (+331-4017 4600;www.hermes.com).
The 18th-century Murano chandelier in Mr Chow’s “gold room” | Image: David Ash
The people I rely on for personal grooming and style are Little Joe’s in Beverly Hills for my haircuts – his modest barbershop has a lot of history to it and all of Hollywood goes to him – and George Cleverley for my bespoke shoes. George Cleverley, 13 The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street, London W1 (020-7493 0443; www.gjcleverley.co.uk). Little Joe’s, 9602 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90210 (+1310-271 5363).
My favourite website is YouTube, which I like to look at because I am a very visual person. I prefer to read things in print, as I’m ancient and not well versed in computers. I am, however, young in spirit. www.youtube.com.
George Cleverley Finchley shoes, £2,650
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the area surrounding the Spanish Steps in Rome. After setting off from the Hassler Hotel, I like to shop on the Via Condotti at boutiques such as Gucci. The Gagosian Gallery there is also wonderful, as is the Via Veneto nearby. This area is the heart of Rome and it makes me happy just thinking about it. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, 00187 Rome (+3906-4208 6498; www.gagosian.com). Gucci, Via Condotti 8, 00187 Rome (+3906-6790 405; www.gucci.com). Hotel Hassler Roma, Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 00187 Rome (+3906-699 340; www.hotelhasslerroma.com).
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a roof tile that I found in Shanghai. I left China as a young teen so, for me, this historical tile is very personal. I consider it a powerful piece of sculpture, as it has a beautiful shape and colour.
The Gagosian Gallery in Rome | Image: Luigi Filetici
If I didn’t live in Los Angeles, the city I would live in is Hong Kong. I just love the idea of it: the weather is great, you can eat the best food on earth and it has literally everything to offer. I like the Peninsula Hotel because it feels nostalgic, with its afternoon tea. I would love to live in The Peak area for the incredible views. Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong (+852-2920 2888; www.peninsula.com).
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a conductor, as I like both the precision of creating music of pure, perfect moments and the idea of rehearsals and collaboration. I would like to be Toscanini, but in a new way.
Angelika Taschen talks personal taste: Part One
Angelika Taschen has been a doyenne of international book publishing for 25 years
Angelika Taschen has been a doyenne of international book publishing for 25 years
My personal style signifiers are a pair of dark-blue Acne skinny jeans, usually worn with a white shirt, and a ring that was made for me by the jeweller Otto Jakob. It is a chunky piece with a hand-cut, antique diamond. Otto knows so much about stones, and I think this has great energy. Acne jeans, from about £160; shop.acnestudios.com. Otto Jakob, Weinbrennerstrasse 40, 76135 Karlsruhe, Germany (+49721-855 911; www.ottojakob.de).
The last thing I bought and loved was a grey cashmere boyfriend sweater by J Crew. I think its president and creative director, Jenna Lyons, has great style, so I tend to like its clothes. I bought this particular sweater online, but I also stock up on them when I am in New York. £208; www.jcrew.com.
Mykita Maple sunglasses, £245 | Image: www.mykita.com
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a pair of sunglasses by Berlin designer Mykita, called Maple, from its Decades Sun collection. They offer a contemporary take on the Wayfarer look, and the gold shimmer is lovely. £245; www.mykita.com.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Stromboli, the small island north of Sicily. I stayed at a friend’s house nestled amid black volcanic rocks with a terrace that winds down to the sea. They had sun loungers at the edge of the ocean, complete with dramatic views of Mount Stromboli erupting in the distance.
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is chocolate from Antica Dolceria Bonajuto in Sicily. It is unlike anything I’ve ever tasted, as it has a wonderful sandy consistency and is very natural. I think it’s the world’s best chocolate. Corso Umberto 159, 97015 Modica, Sicily (+3909-3294 1225; www.bonajuto.it).
The grooming staples I’m never without are Dr Hauschka’s Regenerating Serum, which smooths wrinkles and hydrates the skin, and Frédéric Malle’s En Passant perfume by Olivia Giacobetti. Dr Hauschka Regenerating Serum, £54.45 for 30ml; www.drhauschka.com. Frédéric Malle En Passant, £125 for 100ml; www.fredericmalle.com.
Stromboli, Italy | Image: © Bartuccio Antonino/SIME
The last meal that truly impressed me was the vegetarian food at Ottolenghi in London. Yotam Ottolenghi cooks contemporary food with Arab, Mediterranean and Asian influences that is perfect for people who travel the world. It’s also ideal for those who don’t need too much protein or gluten – and, most importantly, it’s delicious. 63 Ledbury Road, London W11 (020-7727 1121; www.ottolenghi.co.uk) and branches.
The books on my bedside table include Stephen Greenblatt’s The Swerve: How the World Became Modern, and a German translation of Madame Bovary by Gustave Flaubert, which I have read over and over. In addition, I am working through the Steve Jobs biography by Walter Isaacson. I think Jobs was the most influential person of the past 25 years.
Frédéric Malle’s En Passant by Olivia Giacobetti, £125 for 100ml
The best gift I’ve given recently was a small golden ring with a hanging heart by jeweller Sabrina Dehoff. I packaged it in a gold Jil Sander clutch and gave it to a girlfriend for a special birthday. www.jilsander.com. www.sabrinadehoff.com.
And the best one I’ve received was a series of beautiful bouquets of flowers by designer Mark Colle, who did these incredible arrangements in muted colours for my apartment. Augustijnenstraat 35, 2000 Antwerp (+323-232 2838; www.markcolle.com).
Old Ideas by Leonard Cohen
The last music I downloaded was Leonard Cohen’s Old Ideas. I have loved his music for 40 years; I think he gets better with age. And I also recently bought Dionne Warwick’s Greatest Hits 1979-1990, which I enjoy for its soulful vocals. www.dionnewarwick.info. www.leonardcohen.com.
My favourite websites are those of hotels and also fashion blogs. One of my latest finds is Boutique Homes, for house rentals and small hotels; Think Sicily and I Escape allow me to dream about where I would like to go next; and I also follow fashion site My Theresa and style blogger Garance Doré. www.boutique-homes.com. www.garancedore.fr. www.i-escape.com. www.mytheresa.com. www.thinksicily.com.
Angelika Taschen talks personal taste: Part Two
German forests, Gerhard Richter and greengage jam conclude the publishing guru’s style bible
German forests, Gerhard Richter and greengage jam conclude the publishing guru’s style bible
My style icons are Charlotte Rampling and Clarissa Dalrymple, because of their nonchalant elegance. They are my role models for ageing as they look incredibly sexy in their 60s. I also admire the styles of some of the young fashion bloggers, such as Hedvig Opshaug, Eleonora Carisi and Dana Roski, because they mix high and low fashion so well.
In my fridge you’ll always find homemade greengage jam from my uncle, who lives in the countryside, and a bottle of Larmandier-Bernier champagne. I travel so much that my kitchen isn’t well stocked, so when I do come home I tend to eat out. From £39.95; www.larmandier.fr.
A recent “find” is the hotel Palazzo Margherita, owned by Francis Ford Coppola, in Bernalda, southern Italy. I love this hotel for its beautiful design, its intimacy, and for the innocent, unspoilt village in which it is located. Another great discovery is the traditional Café Confiserie Fässler in Appenzell, Switzerland. I’ve never had a better coffee with whipped cream – true Swiss quality. Café Confiserie Fässler, Hauptgasse 16, 9050 Appenzell (+4171-787 1105; www.cafe-faessler.ch).Palazzo Margherita, Corso Umberto 64, 75012 Bernalda (+3908-3554 9060; www.coppolaresorts.com/palazzomargherita), from €360 per night.
The sites that inspire me are German forests, and the views, sounds and smells that can only be found in them. I grew up in the Bavarian and Black Forests, hiking and picking mushrooms and berries, and I find these places to be very secretive. One can forget everything there.
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Gerhard Richter. I particularly love his seascapes and cloud studies. www.gerhard-richter.com.
My favourite room in my house is my bedroom – always. It is tranquil, with a view into the green trees of the courtyard outside. It also has a balcony, and the space is very minimalist and Zen – free of clutter with just a bed, one side table, one lamp and two pieces of art.
The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was an Eres bikini, which I bought for a trip to Zanzibar. Its swimsuits always fit well, come in beautiful colours and are of a high quality. I also recently purchased two Jil Sander coats by Raf Simons for the harsh Berlin winter. One is double-faced wool and the other is down-filled, and both keep the wind out, even when I’m riding my bike. www.eresparis.com. www.jilsander.com.
The person I rely on for personal grooming is my hair stylist, Robert Stranz, for cuts and blow-drying. He has a tiny salon with just two seats and one mirror, and the whole feeling is very relaxed. Almstadtstrasse 48, 10119 Berlin (+4930-2462 8200; www.robertstranz.com).
And an indulgence I would never forego is a strong Thai or shiatsu massage at Traditionelle Thai Massage. Its treatments are better than any I’ve found at a five-star spa. If I have tension in my neck – especially after a long flight – a trip here is just perfect. Torstrasse 176, 10115 Berlin (+4930-2887 9400).
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Berlin’s Mitte, because there is a great mix of unique shops with things you won’t find in any other city. A few of the best stores include International Wardrobe for ethnic clothing, Sabrina Dehoff for unique jewellery, and the concept store Wald-Berlin for little-known brands. I also love Nicole Hogerzeil’s shop, Schwarzhogerzeil, as well as Kaviar Gauche and fantastic bookshops such as Ocelot and Do You Read Me?. Do You Read Me?, Auguststrasse 28, 10117 Berlin (+4930-6954 9695; www.doyoureadme.de).International Wardrobe, Almstadtstrasse 50, 10119 Berlin (www.internationalwardrobe.com). Kaviar Gauche, Linienstrasse 44, 10119 Berlin (+4930-2887 3562; www.kaviargauche.com). Ocelot, Brunnenstrasse 181, 10119 Berlin (+4930-9789 4592; www.ocelot.de). Sabrina Dehoff, Torstrasse 175, 10119 Berlin (+4930-3229 70541; www.sabrinadehoff.de). Schwarzhogerzeil, Mulackstrasse 28, 10119 Berlin (+4930-2887 3868; schwarzhogerzeil.de). Wald-Berlin, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 32C, 10119 Berlin (+4930-6005 1164; www.wald-berlin.de).
If I didn’t live in Berlin, I would live in Chandigarh, a city two hours north of Delhi that was planned and built by Le Corbusier [who started on the project after the initial plan was prepared by the American architect Albert Mayer]. I love the houses there because they are made of handmade bricks and have a human touch, yet are thoroughly modern. In this city each sector is autonomous, with its own school and market, and there are endless trees and gardens. To me, it is the perfect combination of a place created by one of my favourite architects, set in the country that I love best – India.
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a florist. I would create stunning arrangements using a magical mix of everything from herbs to more formal flowers to wild varieties. I love that flowers are so temporary and I think that every stage – from blooming to decay – has its beauty.
Seafood and sundowners at a beachside bolthole
On the outskirts of Cape Town, this buzzy restaurant is one to bookmark
On the outskirts of Cape Town, this buzzy restaurant is one to bookmark
Just a few minutes outside Cape Town, in the beachside area of Clifton, sits The Bungalow, a buzzy, chic Ibiza-meets-Beverly Hills restaurant accessed via a long drive with spectacular views of the vast expanse of blue sea. It comprises a casual outdoor patio that is all canvas, comfy pillows and reclaimed wood, and a more “formal” indoor room that glimmers with gilt, chandeliers and polished beige marble.
Our group opted for the breezy deck area. Restaurateur and hotelier Paul Kovensky (of Paranga and Zenzero fame) has thought of everything – from menus full of fresh, seasonal fare ideal for sharing, to cozy blankets for chilly evenings and a tiny plunge pool for decoration and late-night fun – and the overall ambience is relaxed and elegant.
No matter how lovely the view, however, in the end it’s all about the food – but how could it possibly match the magical setting? I was nervous, but unnecessarily so. Seafood takes centre stage – for starters there is tuna sushi and saba sashimi, colourful prawn fashion rolls (about £3.50-£5) and Namibian crab claw tempura with a sweet chilli sauce (about £7), or, as a main, native kingklip (about £9) and enormous langoustines. Towering platters of shellfish are perfect to kick off the meal in sculptural, scene-stealing style. Elsewhere on the menu, Bungalow signature salads of farm-fresh lettuces and house-made croutons (about £5.60) followed by simple yet satisfying burgers and steak sandwiches (from about £5.60) make for great midday meals, while grilled lamb cutlets with thyme and rosemary lemon salt (about £10.60) and the venison of the day (about £11) are more substantial.
I was enchanted by the kind (if slightly bumbling) service staff, all of whom answered all our questions – about everything from the crazy cocktails and endless list of South African wines, to the day’s line-fish carpaccio – with smiling warmth.
On to dessert and the restaurant’s devilishly delicious sundae (about £5) had me at “hello”. This profusion of luscious ice cream, caramelised almond brittle and homemade chocolate sauce was a crowd pleaser, plain and simple. Other classics we tried – Eton Mess (about £4), crème brûlée (about £3.50), and a seasonal fruit platter (about £6.50) – paled in comparison. But that was no surprise. What a finale...
The Bungalow, 3 Victoria Road, Clifton, Cape Town +2721-438 5600 ; www.thebungalow.co.za.
Rooms with a view: customised glass houses
Seeing is believing with these unusually striking properties
Seeing is believing with these unusually striking properties
When it comes to the notion of a property with breathtaking views, the ante has been significantly upped thanks to Santambrogio Milano, a design collective that specialises in glass houses.
The brainchild of architects and product designers Carlo Santambrogio and Ennio Arosio, the enterprise (which has offices in Italy, London and New York) creates custom glass houses in a variety of sizes and dimensions (from €3,500 per sq m). It uses extra clear Diamant glass from Saint Gobain Glass (used to build IM Pei’s pyramid at the Louvre) for every specification, from crystal clear kitchen counters to staircases and bookshelves.
The designers work with a client using the Glass Concept Home (pictured) as a starting point, to identify and create a structure that works within a particular landscape, and meets the individual’s needs. The resulting designs range from simple, streamlined spaces (from 25sq m) to three-floor villas with luxury amenities. Depending on the location – a snowy mountain setting or a warm, seaside site – the architects vary the thicknesses of the structural glass to ensure just the right heating and insulation, to retain warmth in the winter and remain cool in the summer. Walls and ceilings are created from especially thick glass, while all surfaces are tempered and laminated to prevent glare and the build-up of precipitation.
For the customer who craves a little more privacy, Santambrogio is happy to mix the glass with other materials and finishes – stone or wood – as well as coloured, frosted or opaque glass to shield certain areas from prying eyes. The spaces also lend themselves to dramatic floor-to-ceiling curtains.
Most commissions take three months to a year – a small wait, however, for a lifetime of sleeping under the stars.
March
The kitchen is at the heart of this supremely tasteful San Francisco temple to epicurean delights
The kitchen is at the heart of this supremely tasteful San Francisco temple to epicurean delights
I love the experience of walking into a store and being taken to a different place,” says March owner Sam Hamilton. And transported you will be upon entering her Pacific Heights showroom devoted to elegant products for the kitchen, pantry and home. Inspired by eclectic, artisan-driven stores in Europe (Dover Street Market, Merci) as well as the artistic outpost of Marfa, Texas – not to mention her years spent working with Ralph Lauren – March is a temple to “what San Francisco does so well”, she says. “We celebrate the culture of food.”
Porcelain canisters by Victoria Morris (from $95) | Image: David Ash
The centrepieces of the exquisitely simple space are bespoke butcher-block and Carrera marble work-tables (from $5,600), designed in collaboration with Matt Bear of Union Studio. These can be accessorised with beautiful black ash Adirondack baskets ($1,400) by artist Jonathan Kline, and hand-sewn leather knife and cookbook sheaths (from $400), created in conjunction with Big Bend Saddlery of Alpine, Texas. The main room houses an impressive display cabinet – sourced from a monastery in Belgium – that perfectly showcases the minimalist work of Ted Muehling, Jasper Conran and Christianne Perrochon, among others.
1940s Iranian Kelim hemp and wool rugs, $3,000 each, and March steel drying rack, $2,100 | Image: David Ash
March Oak Parson table with marble top, $5,600, with Maria Moyer porcelain stones and tray, $1,400, and vintage pestle and mortar, $3,250 | Image: David Ash
Roughly 30 per cent of March’s wares are exclusive to the store, with cut-paper art by Tahiti Pehrson (from $4,000) and oil paintings of various meats by Carrie Mae Smith (from $1,200) setting an epicurean tone. Individually commissioned steel fixtures – Shaker-style peg ($925) and pot racks ($2,200) – made by Hicks Metal Design blend taste and practicality, while porcelain canisters and serving pieces by Victoria Morris (from $95) double as objets d’art.
Hanging Quarter by Carrie Mae Smith, $1,700 | Image: David Ash
March and Hicks Metal Design collaboration steel pot-rack, $2,200, with a selection of utensils, from $95 | Image: David Ash
Rounding out the selection are iconic cookers by Aga (four-oven version, $21,000), Waldow pots and pans by Brooklyn Copper Cookware (from $159), and March’s Pantry line of comestibles: bottles of Orleans Method Red Wine Vinegar ($15), seasonal jams and nut butters (both from $12). For Christmas there’s a guest cooking series (“farmers talk turkey”, for example), while unique spice blends (from $8, by Le Sanctuaire) and napkins and table runners by Boxwood Linen combine to set a festive scene – complete with warm nuts straight from the Aga.
March is all about the mix, and handcrafted table-top pieces are interspersed with the odd graphic armchair, antique baking equipment, and statement-making sconces from around the globe. “Not everyone can buy impractical, vintage pottery sets,” acknowledges Hamilton, “but they elevate the store in a visual way. My hope is that all of our offerings become functional heirlooms.”
Sculptural statement jewellery with edgy verve
A Brooklyn designer plays to the tastes of directional style mavens
A Brooklyn designer plays to the tastes of directional style mavens
Drawing upon a diverse mélange of artistic references, Brooklyn jeweller James Colarusso’s style veers from sensual Brancusi curves to the more angular geometric shapes seen in the work of artists such as Donald Judd. He also plays with history and has a certain gothic wit; his pieces often transform traditional elements – think cameos, memento-mori jewellery and sentimental heirlooms and tokens – into thoroughly modern creations. A signet ring with a skull insignia, for example.
If you’re looking to copy a specific piece of your own, or want a big diamond in a classic setting, then Colarusso is not your man. He views stones for their own sake as “garish”. If, however, you are interested in a collaborative bespoke creative process, the outcome of which is an edgily unique pair of earrings, a statement-making necklace or a one-off ring, you’re in the right place.
Colarusso works with each client to explore their personal take on his ideas and designs, incorporating a selection of stones sourced from wide-ranging locales: the American southwest as far as Thailand. Bold rings are a particular Colarusso strength – The Claw ($4,500) features golden “talons” holding exquisite stones in perfect place (first picture with amethyst), while precious diamonds are incorporated in subtle, unexpected ways. Coloured gems, such as the spectacular, sea-green Peruvian opals, are set in 14-carat gold (second picture, $3,500) designed to amplify their intense power.
Necklaces can be created to order, inspired by specific stones or playing with existing designs – Colarusso is a fan of charms and his directional-meets-historical puzzle-ball pendants (from $615) work well for day wear. More formal pieces, such as a heart-shaped citrine (third picture) or a customised smoky quartz pendant ($3,800), are perfect for special occasions. When it comes to earrings, he loves to design for a specific woman’s face so that the style and length perfectly suit the shape.
Colarusso’s clientele tend to be strong women in creative fields such as publishing, film and fashion. Most buy pieces for themselves and tend to collect his work, and they don’t mind the eight-week wait. In fact, if anything, the delay makes the final delivery all the more delightful.
A yurt fit for a luxe traveller
Inspiring handmade dwellings perfect for elegant adventures
Inspiring handmade dwellings perfect for elegant adventures
With the festive season fast approaching, the race is on to find that unique gift – the thing that your special someone would never buy for him or herself. While the tents, tipis (second picture) and yurts (first picture) handcrafted by the Colorado Yurt Company, a family-run collective based in the Rocky Mountains, might not fit neatly under the Christmas tree, they are most definitely original, thoughtful and, best of all, can be customised, purchased online and delivered internationally.
The beautiful images on its website set the scene by conjuring all sorts of Ernest Hemingway-meets-Out of Africa scenarios that inspire intrepid trips into the wild. From cozy yurts in snowy settings to tents pitched – complete with luxe interiors – amid the desert dunes, these shelters are the epitome of rustic elegance.
The company has been making sturdy, sustainable and incredibly stylish fabric structures for over 36 years and when it comes to dwellings that manage to be both appealingly simple and incredibly luxurious, it’s got it covered – literally. The bespoke ordering process is simple: start by browsing through the tipi section of the site, where you’ll find a mix of traditional and modern choices – with a multitude of paint and pattern options from lizards to flowers – in sizes ranging from a standard 12ft version ($632) to more spacious 28ft-plus options ($3,727). With added liners and floor-coverings, they’ll work year-round in a variety of climates. A quick call to confirm and a beautiful canvas-bagged package can be yours in as little as four weeks.
The two Cimarron wall-tent choices – the hunting and fishing-friendly Outfitter and the elegant Platform – both offer the chance to commune with nature at $10 per square foot. Of the two durable finishes, the water-resistant, poly-cotton Turfstar comes in a rather chic off-white shade, while the Sunforger, made of a water-repellant, UV-resistant fabric, is great for the weather’s harsher vagaries. Prices vary from $1,000 to $4,300 plus, and can be customised with a combination of details including stovepipe, extra windows and mosquito netting.
But the pièce de resistance at Colorado Yurts are, unsurprisingly, the yurts themselves ($5,300-$18,000), which are based on traditional Mongolian designs and feature lattices and wooden rafters, each with circular rooms available in five diameters (from 16ft to 30ft). With over 30 colours to choose from (they will happily send fabric samples), as well as insulation packages, state-of the-art kitchens, baths and even spas, the personal design possibilities are virtually endless.
One thing you can guarantee – it’s not a present you’ll double up on, that’s for sure. Especially if you’re really buying one for yourself.
Flavour to savour from Vermont
Artisanal rye whiskey with a crisp-yet-creamy finish and a curious name
Artisanal rye whiskey with a crisp-yet-creamy finish and a curious name
When it comes to whiskey, I’m no expert, but I know what I like. A friend and spirits connoisseur had been raving about WhistlePig’s 100/100 – a 100 proof, 100 per cent rye whiskey, double-barrel aged for 10-plus years in new American oak and bourbon barrels. It hails from Vermont, and as a born and bred Vermonter myself, my curiosity was piqued. When one thinks of American whiskey, Kentucky pops to mind, but New England? Very interesting. This heady blend was released in 2010 by the US’s first single-estate distillery and is known by a growing number of whiskey enthusiasts as “America’s Single Malt”.
The distillery is located on 500 acres of beautiful farmland in the quaint town of Shoreham, nestled in the Green Mountain state and WhistlePig is the brainchild of owner Raj Bhakta and his master distiller, Dave Pickerell, previously of Maker’s Mark. Together they have created 100/100 which, they claim, embodies “the perfect balance of proof, purity and age” and hits what they hope is “the sweet spot in all three categories”.
This dark, golden-amber liquid had me at “hello”. With its notes of allspice, ginger, nutmeg, clove, anise and orange peel, together with strains of charred oak, caramel and honey it fills the nose and mouth with a mélange of sweet, floral and spicy flavours. A heavy beginning segues into a crisp-yet-creamy finish and is a rich sensory experience.
Whistlepig’s 100/100 has quickly gained a following and can be found in the finest restaurants and bars across the US – Per Se in New York and Bouchon in Beverley Hills among them – with plans for global expansion next year.
The mix of subtle spices and lingering cocoa still dance in my memory. It’s tongue tantalising: I’m looking forward to many a mean Manhattan and perhaps an Old Fashioned or two in the near future.
An angling specialist that sure is fly
A site for fishing paraphernalia that casts the net wide
A site for fishing paraphernalia that casts the net wide
The e-shop of über-chic, jaw-droppingly extensive Fifth Avenue store Urban Angler is a happy haven for fishing enthusiasts round the globe who are casting about for top-of-the-range kit. It is divided into 12 well-edited categories, which means that you can search with ease through the perfect selection of every essential (and some non-essential, just very fabulous) item, from Sage rods (from $295) of varying lengths and weights, to Simms Headwater Tackle Bags ($139.95) for far-flung expeditions. As an added bonus, it ships anywhere in the world.
Colourful graphics and detailed product descriptions make shopping a genuine pleasure – for the complete novice and the expert alike. If you begin in “Rods and Reels”, you’ll find items from US makers including RL Winston (from $545) and G Loomis (from $350) – with their graphite rods, and Redington Redas – whose pursuit outfit models ($179.95) are well-suited for both fresh and saltwater fishing. Choose from approximately five state-of-the-art reels by Ross or Nautilus, or opt for one of Tibor’s new Signature Series models (first picture, $775-$865) – in black or gold finishes, complete with a personalised name plate – that make on-the-fly spool-swapping a breeze. A selection of lines and leaders complete the offering – 3M’s textured Mastery Series (from $44.95) is a perennial angler favourite as it requires less casting effort and is extremely durable.
Accessories run the gamut from Abel Plier Sets (from $175) to beautiful, teak-handled Brodin Cutthroat Ghost Nets ($125) that are ideal for stream fishing. Polarised Smith Guides Choice specs ($119) by Action Optics in copper, amber or brown offer maximum coverage and comfort. The “Clothing” and “Wading” areas are particularly strong, and you’ll want to head straight for the Simms G4 Pro Stockingfoot ($579), with five layers of ultra-light fabric, as the Urban Angler has deemed these “simply the best waders ever made”.
Assorted flies, Fish Pond Road Trip Fly Tying Kit Bags (second picture, $89.95) and a fantastic pair of water-repellent Leica Ultravid Binoculars (third picture, from $699) make for unusual gifts, while the “Luggage” section features more than 30 bags, duffels and cases to get all of this great gear to the water’s edge.
Whether you – or your significant other – fishes for trout, bone fish, permit, tarpon or massive marlin, Urban Angler is the place to stock up on the latest beautifully designed, well-made products that really deliver.
Take this bait – you’ll be hooked.
Adrian Joffe talks personal taste: Part One
The Comme des Garçons president shares the helm of the $180m-a-year fashion empire with his wife, designer Rei Kawakubo
The Comme des Garçons president shares the helm of the $180m-a-year fashion empire with his wife, designer Rei Kawakubo
My personal style signifier is a Comme des Garçons blue striped shirt. I basically live in them five days a week, as they are comfortable and work well with everything. I select what I like from the atelier when the new collections are presented. Dover Street Market, 17-18 Dover Street, London W1 (020-7518 0680; www.doverstreetmarket.com).
The Sense of an Ending by Julian Barnes
The last thing I bought and loved was Julian Barnes’ recent novel, The Sense of An Ending, which was awarded the Man Booker Prize last year. I purchased it at JFK Airport in New York and I read it on my flight all the way to Paris. I loved his philosophical explanation of getting old. I enjoyed it so much, in fact, that it kept me from sleeping, which is what I should have been doing. £4.79; www.waterstones.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is nothing materialistic, but rather a peaceful holiday. I would love to go trekking in Tibet as I’ve been hiking in Nepal and enjoyed the solitude there very much. I think this kind of trip would be both spiritual and restorative.
Gang Ba Ancient Fortress in Shigatse, Tibet | Image: Getty Images
An indulgence I would never forego is really fine sushi. I love all of the best sushi restaurants in Tokyo – and in New York City and Paris, for that matter – but I especially love the authentic places in Japan. One of my favourites in Paris is Kinugawa, near the Louvre, particularly for their scallop sushi. I would have a hard time going on without it. In fact, I’d love some right now. 9 Rue du Mont Thabor, 75001 Paris (+33-1 4260 6507; www.kinugawa.fr).
New Balance trainers at Footlocker
The last item I added to my wardrobe is a pair of very simple, black New Balance trainers that I purchased in New York City. I was staying at a hotel downtown and my feet were killing me from all the walking, so I went into the Foot Locker on 14th Street and found this terrific pair of shoes. I wear them all the time because they’re incredibly comfortable and understated. I’ve yet to find them anywhere else. $69.99; 58 West 14th Street, New York 10003(+1-212 255-6481; www.footlocker.com).
Orange, Red, Yellow, 1961 by Mark Rothko | Image: © 1998 Kate Rothko Prizel & Christopher Rothko ARS, NY and DACS, London.
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is the abstract painter Mark Rothko, though I am not a collector by any means. I tend to like art where it is – in museums, or in public spaces. I don’t need to own it.
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a monk. I feel like that sort of life would be full of peace and wisdom. There isn’t enough time for either of these things in our fashion business.
The books on my bedside table are likely to be anything by Jo Nesbø, a Norwegian writer of thrillers – well known for his series featuring Detective Harry Hole. I also love biographies and I am currently reading The Secret Lives of Somerset Maugham by Selina Hastings. It is an incredibly in-depth, well written book about the 1930s English playwright and author. And The New Yorker and as I am always at least two to three weeks behind, you’ll often find them piled up beside my bed. £12.99, www.waterstones.com.
The place that inspires me is Tokyo Bay at sunrise. The skyline is completely beautiful and the light there, at that time of day, is spectacular. I’ve been going to Tokyo for more than 40 years, and yet this skyline – with its islands and bridges – never ceases to amaze me. To me, it symbolises the incredible resilience and energy of Japan.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Mishkin’s, a Jewish deli-restaurant in London’s Covent Garden. I had a feast of salt beef, chopped liver, and hearty meatloaf there. The space looks like a festive 1950s American diner, complete with vinyl booths and fried green tomatoes. 25 Catherine Street, WC2 (020-7240 2078; http://mishkins.co.uk).
My favourite websites are the BBC and the Financial Times for news. I like the Comme des Garçons site because there is no fashion on it; and I also find travel sites such as Condé Nast Traveller and Lonely Planet to be inspiring. www.bbc.co.uk; www.ft.com; www.comme-des-garcons.com; www.cntraveller.com; www.lonelyplanet.com.
Adrian Joffe talks personal taste: Part Two
Lamb curry, The Killing DVD box set and Savon de Marseille soap round off his list of likes
Lamb curry, The Killing DVD box set and Savon de Marseille soap round off his list of likes
My style icon is [Myanmar democracy activist] Aung San Suu Kyi. She possesses style in the broader sense of the word – that is, I admire her for her dignity, beauty, hard work and passion for human rights causes.
In my fridge you’ll always find very little. I tend to eat lunch out and as I return home late at night, I don’t cook very much. I do, however, always have eggs, soya milk, and cheese on hand, as well as snacks such as pickled herring. I love that any time of the day.
My style icon is activist Aung San Suu Kyi | Image: AFP/Getty Images
A recent “find” is the Indian restaurant Curry in a Hurry, in New York City. It is cheap, authentic and serves an outstanding lamb curry, which is my favourite. It was packed with Indian people watching Bollywood movies so the whole experience felt very real. Their dosas and sheekh kababs of minced beef are delicious, too. 119 Lexington Avenue, New York 10016 (+1212-683 0900; www.curryinahurrynyc.com).
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Seoul. I didn’t have any expectations and I found every aspect of the city to be fascinating. It’s not quite Tokyo, not quite China, and it is “ugly-beautiful” in a very special way. The food there is excellent and I found Koreans to be extremely welcoming. We opened a store there and were literally treated like royalty.
And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is always edible. I don’t like clutter so I rarely buy souvenirs as such, but I do love delicious things from around the world. I am particularly fond of dried mangoes, and I bought the best ones when I was last in Bangkok.
The last music I downloaded was I Love You by Arto Tunçboyaciyan. He’s a wonderful Turkish-Armenian musician who sings and also plays an instrument called a duduk – a traditional woodwind instrument that makes the most beautiful sound. When I heard his music on the radio, I searched for everything he has recorded and downloaded whatever I could find. itunes.apple.com/us/artist/arto-tuncboyaciyan/id1526465.
The best gift I’ve given recently is a box set of The Killing
The best gift I’ve given recently was a DVD set of the Danish crime drama series The Killing. I gave it to my 29-year-old niece and she loved following the 20-day murder investigation. Seasons One and Two, £38.59; www.amazon.co.uk.
And the best one I’ve received recently is a DVD set of the television series Upstairs, Downstairs, which was given to me by a colleague in London. I had mentioned to him how much I love Downton Abbey – and British historical dramas, in general – and he gave me the original series from the 1970s that chronicles life in Edwardian England and during the first world war. Upstairs, Downstairs Series One to Five, £34.97; Downton Abbey Series One and Two; £19.99; www.amazon.co.uk.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Seoul | Image: Getty Images
The beauty staple I’m never without is Savon de Marseille, an olive oil soap that evokes the South of France. It is perfect for showers and bathrooms in general, and I like that it is still made in a traditional way. I also like to use our latest fragrance, Amazingreen, which I find fresh and energising. From £4.47; savondemarseille.com. Amazingreen, £57 for 50ml;www.selfridges.com
An object I would never part with? I would part with every object because they just weigh you down. My ultimate goal is to shed all of my possessions, but if I had to choose one sentimental item to keep forever, it would probably be my collection of photographs of family and friends.
If I didn’t live in Paris, I would live in a small village in the Japanese countryside | Image: Getty Images
My favourite room in my house is my bedroom in Paris because I can sleep totally undisturbed. I live in the Marais area and this particular space overlooks a quiet, peaceful courtyard.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the various markets in New Delhi. I particularly love the Dilli Haat Market that sells everything from vegetables to Indian crafts. I’ve never seen anything so colourful and vibrant anywhere else. The fruits and vegetables are stacked in incredible arrangements and there is just an energy and vibrancy that is unique to this part of the world. I also love the Janpath and Tibetan Market, and the Khan Market for its bookshops.
The person I rely on for personal grooming and style is my fitness trainer and friend, Mohamed. He comes to my house and we work out and box with one another. I don’t have a gym in my home, so we just clear out the lounge area and he teaches me new moves and strengthening exercises.
If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is not another city but rather in a small village in the Japanese countryside. As I get older, I’d love to be surrounded by fewer people, though I do love to visit bustling cities – New Delhi, New York, Bangkok, Edinburgh. I just can’t imagine living in those places any more. I think Paris will be my last city, as it is simply the most architecturally beautiful.
Skis with a personal angle
European tradition, US tech and custom fitting enhance performance
European tradition, US tech and custom fitting enhance performance
Winter is coming ever closer, and with it the promise of snowy pistes – and, possibly, new skis. If you’re looking to optimise your performance this season, then now is the time to commission a pair of bespoke Wagner Custom Skis – beautiful designs that are created to your exact specifications using “Skier DNA” software (from about $1,750).
The process is actually quite simple. After filling out a detailed online questionnaire, a member of Wagner’s tech team (and often founder/engineer Pete Wagner himself) gathers further information about each client’s unique goals, his or her body type, strength and agility, as well as riding style and preferred range of terrain and snow conditions. And whether you’re schussing down a French Alp or scaling backcountry peaks in the Rockies, these skis are all created for “overall better balance, comfort and control”, explains Wagner.
While Wagner’s dream skis involve technological innovations, the basics remain as they have for years. At the heart of each ski is a hardwood core – often North American maple, ash or aspen for lighter models – with bases of the finest, most durable World-Cup-worthy P-tex (a polyethylene that enhances efficient glide) from Switzerland. Skis can be reinforced with Kevlar to protect against rocks and debris, and all edges are crafted from high-strength carbon steel. The structural layers include everything from aerospace-grade fibres to aluminium reinforcements, plus Wagner’s own carbon-fibre torsion box – all designed to reinforce the stiffness of the ski in the most lightweight manner possible. Top sheets are sourced from Austria and clients can choose between a wide variety of finishes, from solid colours to elegant, hand-crafted wood veneers to limitless patterns and graphics.
Arguably the best part of ordering a pair of these sculptural skis is the process of co-creating them with the Wagner team. Besides all being truly passionate about the sport, they’ll fit the bindings and provide personalised direction on the best ski boots and gear. The design process takes approximately three weeks from start to delivery (via FedEx), and satisfaction is guaranteed. After a 30-day trial period, if a customer isn’t happy with the skis, they may be returned and completely rebuilt, or the money refunded.
Wagner Custom Skis are a significant cut above factory-produced models in every way. As Pete Wagner himself says: “Custom equipment helps with power and efficiency, and the benefit is of course enhanced performance. But mostly, it just makes skiing more fun.”
Alexander Wang talks personal taste
The fashion designer on YSL chukkas, Hawaii and Tupac Shakur
The fashion designer on YSL chukkas, Hawaii and Tupac Shakur
My personal style signifiers are my own-brand black jeans with a black leather pocket, my collection of sweatshirts and black Samba sneakers. I wear these three things almost every day – to work, to dinner, to the beach. Samba sneakers from £41; www.adidas.co.uk. Jeans, £189, sweatshirts from £84; www.alexanderwang.com.
The last thing I bought and loved was a custom-made waterfall table covered in dove grey stingray. My friend and interior designer, Ryan Korban, created it for our showroom and it matches perfectly with the steel grey space as well as with the white marble floors. ryankorban.com.
Makapuu beach, Oahu | Image: Getty Images/Flickr RF
A recent “find” is The Nomad Hotel in the Flatiron District in New York City. I love the traditional and modern mix. I recently realised that it was where we shot our Fall 2011 campaign with Craig McDean two years ago, when it was just a construction site. 1170 Broadway, New York 10001 (+1212-796 1500; www.thenomadhotel.com), from $395 per night.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Oahu. Even more than the place are the memories of my birthday spent with friends. Ten of the people closest to me celebrated New Year’s, sailed and relaxed for a week. We rented a house on the beach; it was wonderful. +1808-878 8559; hawaiihideaways.com.
The last item I added to my wardrobe was a pair of YSL stingray chukkas. There were only something like 10 pairs made, and I special ordered mine. These are basically my version of a dress shoe, but they are on a sneaker base. Since they are made of stingray they don’t give too much, but they are about as comfortable as a dress shoe can get. www.ysl.com.
The people I rely on for personal grooming and style are the Leather Spa for fixing shoes and bags made of suede or leather. I also depend on Joey at Blackstones in the East Village for hair maintenance, and the Shibui Spa at The Greenwich Hotel for the most relaxing massages in the city. Blackstones, 19 East 7th Street, New York 10003 (+1212-353 2680; blackstonesnyc.net); The Greenwich Hotel, 377 Greenwich Street, New York 10013 (+1212-941 8900; www.thegreenwichhotel.com). Leather Spa, 10 West 55th Street, New York 10019 (+1212-262 4823; www.leatherspa.com).
The last meal that truly impressed me was at EN Japanese Brasserie in the West Village. I love the blue crab miso soup, the organic chicken cooked over a hot stone and the tofu and mizuna salad. I’m campaigning for it to bring back its natto soybean dish, as it was the only one like it in the city. Apparently people “didn’t get it”, but I thought it was great. 435 Hudson Street, New York 10014 (+1212?647 9196; enjb.com).
The books on my bedside table aren’t actually books. I read everything on my laptop; generally this includes The New York Times, New York magazine and Women’s Wear Daily.
EN Japanese Brasserie, New York
The last music I downloaded was by Tupac Shakur. I got all of the tracks I didn’t already own, including 2 of Americaz Most Wanted, Hit ’Em Up and California Love. I was so inspired by his hologram at Coachella that I had to fill in my playlists; it really reminded me what an amazing talent he was. www.itunes.com.
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would… I’m not sure. One of my strengths is that I have always known what I wanted to do, and not been deterred.
The grooming staples I’m never without are RéVive skincare products. I use the day cream, Sensitif Cellular Repair Cream, Moisturising Renewal Cream for night, as well as the Tonique Préparatif toner, because they are all light and unscented. And bottom line – they work. Moisturising Renewal Cream, £105; Sensitif Cellular Repair Cream, £125; Tonique Préparatif, £36. www.panachecosmetics.com. www.reviveskincare.com.
My favourite websites are 1st Dibs for looking at vintage furniture, and MenuPages so I can see which restaurants will deliver to me both at work and at home. www.1stdibs.com. www.menupages.com.
Is Europe's Most Expensive Hotel Room Worth It?
The renovated palazzo that is now the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze is its own great excuse to travel to Italy. Its centerpiece: Europe's most expensive hotel room.
The renovated palazzo that is now the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze is its own great excuse to travel to Italy. Its centerpiece: Europe's most expensive hotel room.
FLORENCE – I've seen a hotel or two in my day — some shabby (not anywhere near chic), some completely fabulous — but nothing could've prepared me for my recent stay at the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze, a renovated palazzo in the heart of the Renaissance city.
Opened just three years ago, the property is unlike any other chain hotel I've ever visited. In the first place, it is a magnificent museum in and of itself. The 500+ year-old Palazzo della Gherardesca has been lovingly restored — right down to the original frescoed ceilings and on-site chapel — by the local Fratini family, who are often seen around the hotel on Sundays.
The rooms are, of course, lovely throughout, with elegant Pedersoli linens, views overlooking eight acres of gardens. There's even a 16th-century conventino nearby. But the ultimate accommodation — by many accounts, the most expensive room in Europe — is the breathtaking Royal Suite, which runs a mere 18,500€ per night. It's a baroque explosion of vaulted ceilings, endless rooms, and gilding galore. Add to this an original ceramic floor by Ignazio Chiaiese, and you could be forgiven for thinking you were a long-lost Medici in this stunning perch. The Royal Suite conveniently connects to the grand Presidential Suite next door. The ultimate house party — with park vistas and Michelin-starred room service — is only hundreds of thousands of dollars away.
The Four Seasons Florence is a little oasis in an otherwise cobblestoned, urban setting. Lunch by the pool (yes, a pool in the middle of Florence!) is a welcome respite from sun and all those church and museum visits. And while I am not usually a fan of hotel brunches — especially in towns with wonderful trattorias — the brunch at Il Palagio is not to be missed. Reservations must be made well in advance because it's usually packed with — get this! — real Florentine families there for the buzzing atmosphere and unbelievably good food. Platters of shellfish, cheeses, made-to-order pastas, and chef Vito Mallica's signature soft-cooked egg with citrus, bottarga, capers, and Tuscan olive oil make brunch an hours-long, memory-making affair.
But I'm not finished gushing. About the grand L'Orangerie lobby lounge and soaring spaces. About how history mixes with modern tech and bath amenities. I still marvel that anyone took on such a massive renovation, and that it was executed so beautifully, down to every last stucco'd detail. There's only one drawback to staying here. You might have to drag yourself out to see the Duomo.
FIND IT
Four Seasons Hotel Firenze
Borgo Pinti, 99
50121 Firenze, Italy
+39-055-26261
U.S. Road Trips: The South
Roadside diners, Blue Ridge mountains, Main Street, biscuits, banjos, and more. With the help of friends and admired travelers, we compiled a list of weekend road trip destinations in the southern United States. Are we there yet?
FLORIDA
Photo courtesy of Casa Monica.
Head to St. Augustine
If you're in the mood for a historic, laid-back beach town with an artists' colony vibe.
Route to take: I-95 to the Jacksonville Beaches, then scenic A1A down the coast.
Good to know: Grab lunch at the famous Columbia Restaurant, and shop for ceramics at Market to Market on historic St. George Street. Casa Monica Hotel is right in the center of the action, and those trolley tours are worth a spin, too.
GEORGIA
Photo courtesy of Serenbe.
Head to Palmetto Springs
If you're in the mood for a weekend romp in the woods.
Route to take: I-85 south from Atlanta.
Good to know: Serenbe is a sustainable farming community and inn nestled just outside the city limits, with incredible on-site dining dens The Hil and The Farmhouse.
Read more on Fathom: Love Letter to Serenbe
Head to Savannah
If you're in the mood for a little history with your Georgia peach. Take a history-filled bike tour with Savannah Slow Ride, then nosh on fried green tomatoes and candied bacon at The Olde Pink House, a mandatory stop for old-school Southern indulgence, with jazz in the historic basement bar. Stop into Rocks on the Roof for killer views (and rose) and Moon River Brewing Company for beer tastings.
Route to take: Don't miss the peach stands on the four-hour drive from Atlanta.
Good to know: Alex Raskin Antiques (441 Bull St.; +912-232-8205) houses hundreds of antiques in an essentially untouched mansion.
Read more on Fathom: An Unforgettable Group Trip in 8 Steps
KENTUCKY
Cherokee Park, Kentucky. Photo by Jessica Dillree / Flickr.
Head to Lexington
If you're in the mood for horses and bourbon. Spend a day at the track: Keeneland is a racecourse famous for the Bluegrass Stake, whose winner advances to the Kentucky Derby. Dress to impress, but save your hat for the Derby. Visit Pepper Campus, an industrial patch of land revitalized by trendy breweries, restaurants, and ice cream shops, but save room for dinner at Middle Fork Kitchen Bar.
Route to take: If you don't mind taking a little detour, head northwest from Nashville and drive through Daniel Boone National Forest before turning northeast toward Lexington.
Good to know: For real-deal Kentucky fried chicken, go to Indi's Fast Food Restaurant.
Read more on Fathom: Bourbon for Breakfast. Playing the Ponies at Lunch. Fried Chicken for the Plane Ride Home.
NORTH CAROLINA
Photo courtesy of Cucina 24.
Head to Asheville
If you're in the mood for stunning mountains, music, and eats. A perfect evening involves a nibble at Cucina 24 followed by live music at The Orange Peel. Wedge Brewery down by the railroad tracks is the best in town.
Route to take: Anything that passes through the Blue Ridge mountains. Bonus points if you make a stop along Virginia's Crooked Road heritage trail (banjo optional).
Good to know: Flex your artsy muscles at Penland School of Crafts.
Read more on Fathom: A Sweet and Smoky Food Tour of Asheville
Head to the Appalachian Forests
If you're in the mood for scenic mountainscapes across three states. Late June brings the blooming of Roan Mountain's rhododendrons. September brings stunning hues of deciduous leaves.
Route to take: Start just north of Asheville. Zip-line through the leafy canopy at Navitat; later, stretch your legs with a hike off Route 143 in Roan Mountain State Park. Don't miss a homemade Southern-style breakfast at Early Girl Eatery and a local brew at Barley's Taproom — Asheville was voted America's Beer City for the fourth year running. Drive through Roan Mountain State Park, straddling the NC-TN border.
Good to know: Bristol's main drag, State Street, has the distinction of falling along the Virginia-Tennessee border. Great burgers can be found at Burger Bar, a local institution since 1942.
Head to Wrightsville Beach
If you're in the mood for boogie boarding and flip-flops.
Route to take: Zip down from Raleigh (two hours).
Good to know: There are 44 public access points along the stretch of Wrightsville and four public parking lots with restrooms. Amenities like public volleyball nets, Vito's Pizzeria, and Rita's Water Ice are clustered around Johnnie Mercer's Pier, as are slightly bigger crowds.
Read more on Fathom: Wrightsville Beach itinerary
SOUTH CAROLINA
Photo courtesy of The Vendue.
Head to Charleston
If you're in the mood for a culinary hotbed in the prettiest Southern town. Drop off your bags at historic Planters Inn, Fulton Lane Inn, or John Rutledge House Inn. If love is in the air, check into The Vendue (one of Fathom's Most Romantic Hotels in the USA).
Route to take: After your city fix, drive for an hour to Kiawah Island, a stunning nature preserve.
Good to know: Book tables at Husk, F.I.G., The Macintosh, The Grocery, and Butcher & Bee.
Read more on Fathom: Charleston Guide
TENNESSEE
Photo courtesy of Warehouse Row.
Head to Chattanooga
If you're in the mood for Southern-style cool. Check out the chic Bluff View Art District's cafes, historic buildings, and galleries. Warehouse Row has recently become a haven for shopping, dining, and strolling.
Route to take: It's about 130 miles (or a two-and-a-half hour drive) southeast of Nashville. You can zip down I-24. If you've got a boat, you can make a grand entrance via the Tennessee River.
Good to know: Bluff View Inn has beautifully appointed rooms in three restored turn-of-the-century homes. There's a free shuttle line to help you get around the district.
Read more on Fathom: Where to Go from Nashville
Head to East Tennessee
If you're in the mood for The Great Smokies, bluegrass, and country kitsch.
Route to take: The one that leads you to Dolly's homeland.
Good to know: Hike Mount Lecont and rest your toes at Leconte Lodge. Take a spin around Dollywood during the day (your visit earns you lifelong music street cred) for rides and bluegrass music a plenty. Dine in a log cabin at Greenbrier Restaurant at night or splurge on an unforgettable meal at Blackberry Farm.
Head to Leiper's Fork
If you're in the mood for a funky little country town.
Route to take: Drive 30 minutes south of Nashville on the heavily wooded, historic Natchez Trace Parkway.
Good to know: Drop by Serenite Maison to scout antiques. Have lunch at Puckett's Grocery, a meat-and-three with nightly live music. Pick up provisions at Joe Natural's Farm Store and Cafe.
Read more on Fathom: Nashville Guide
TEXAS
A historic house from 1861 in Jefferson, Texas. Photo courtesy of The Grove.
Head to Jefferson
If you're in the mood for antiques and good old-fashioned biker bars.
Route to take: Just west of Texarkana, the 59 leads you in from points North or South and the 49 from the west.
Good to know: Auntie Skinner's Riverboat Club serves up the fried pickles while Allman Brothers cover bands play. The people watching can't be beat. Stay at a Victorian B&B like The Benefield House and antique your heart out at the dozens of shops on Austin Street.
Head to San Antonio
If you're in the mood for a vibrant city with a colorful history and strong culinary scene. Check into the newly opened Roman and Williams-designed Hotel Emma. Built inside an old brewhouse, the industrial-chic hotel is part of a larger cultural village on the site of what was formerly the Pearl Brewery. Dress the part in a custom-made guayabera from Dos Carolinas. (Designer Caroline Matthews is also responsible for the light blue seersucker robes at Hotel Emma.) The local food scene is top-notch: Start with globally inspired barbecue and craft beers at The Granary.
Route to take: Drive down I-35E S and I-35 S for four and half hours until you hit San Antonio.
Good to know: Skip the state's most famous battle site and spend your last day floating down the Guadalupe River with an Alamo Golden Ale in hand.
Head to Austin
If you're in the mood for hip indie hotspots alongside old-school mainstays. Stroll down South Congress Avenue and end up at Continental Club for some of the best live music Austin is so famous for. Stay for dinner at the Dart Bowl Cafe for bowling and the best enchiladas of your life. Check out the landmark Driskill Hotel and feel like a cattle baron among the cowhides and sultry music.
Route to take: Take I-35 North from San Antonio, or if you're coming from Dallas on I-35 South, stop at Lake Austin Spa Resort, a luxurious retreat just 40 minutes from downtown Austin.
Good to know: If you're feeling artsy, head to East Austin, which has managed to retain roots in art and the local community.
Read more on Fathom: Everything Old Is Cool in Austin
VIRGINIA
Ah, country life! Photo courtesy of Red Fox Inn.
Head to Middleburg
If you're in the mood for a romantic weekend with a backdrop of rolling green hills and grazing horses.
Route to take: Drive a little over an hour on Route 50 east of Washington, D.C. The charming Red Fox Inn was established in 1728 and has been visited by historical greats like George Washington, John F. Kennedy, and Elizabeth Taylor. Try The Goodstone Inn & Estate Restaurant for farm-to-table French cuisine sourced from the onsite organic herb and vegetable gardens.
Good to know: With a glass of RdV Vineyards' 2010 Lost Mountain (a cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend) at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The intimate winery accepts tastings by appointment only, so book in advance.
Head to Sperryville
If you're in the mood for scenic hikes and truly stellar meals.
Route to take: The 72-mile drive takes approximately two hours by car. Don't miss the scenic Skyline Drive that winds through the Shenandoah National Park and features waterfalls and starry skies. Chef Patrick O'Connell at The Inn at Little Washington oversees one of the world's only double five-diamond establishments where chawanmushi (warm, local duck egg "tea cup" custard with ginger-scented Asian tea) and carpaccio of herb-crusted baby lamb loin are the orders of the day. Once in a blissful food coma, repair to one of the historic Relais & Chateaux's sumptuous suites and take in the garden views. Bring someone special: The Inn is one of Fathom's Most Romantic Hotels in The South.)
Good to know: Check out will be depressing, so stock up at the Inn's Tavern Shop where chef O'Connell has selected exquisite kitchen items, including Laguiole knives and artisanal cheeses.
MORE FATHOM-APPROVED GETAWAYS
Have you seen our list of the Most Romantic Hotels in The South?
Special thanks to contributors Tiffany Davis, Becca Dollan, Kate Donnelly, Brooke Lewy, Laura Siciliano Rosen/Eat Your World, Beth Silverman, Caitlyn Slivinski, Christina Ohly, Kim VanderVoort.
Ted Muehling
A cache of jewellery and objets d’art inspired by nature in Tribeca
A cache of jewellery and objets d’art inspired by nature in Tribeca
Jeweller and decorative object designer Ted Muehling’s Tribeca boutique is as close as you get to a Zen sanctuary in NYC. For Muehling’s fanbase – a stylish, smart set working in the fields of art, design, film and publishing – and newcomers alike, this retail destination provides a breath of fresh air in Lower Manhattan.
Ted Muehling gold Olive Branch bracelets ($1,500) | Image: Ngoc Minh Ngo
The minimal space – a former children’s theatre reimagined by architects Fernlund & Logan – is, as Muehling explains, meant to be “a no-design design; a backdrop that is as plain as a glass of water”. The effect is one of serene beauty that showcases the sculptural forms the artist creates in metal, semiprecious stones, porcelain and paper-thin glass, offset with a smattering of shells, birds’ nests and butterflies. The ethereal setting features a mezzanine and gallery space, as well as a busy workshop.
Inspired by organic shapes, and also the work of Arne Jacobsen, Georg Jensen and Anish Kapoor, Muehling tries to see nature in fresh ways. All his shapes are sympathetic – from a pair of Lillypad mother-of-pearl earrings ($180) and hoop clusters with citrines (from $800) to simple, glazed porcelain eggs ($519). The shop also serves as his creative showcase. “By placing candlesticks on a side table, or flowers in a certain vase, I can better communicate my aesthetic,” he says.
Nymphenburg porcelain, from left: large Moon Snail dish, $2,200; small Volute bowl, $1,150; Coral lamp $1,280; Coral vase $1,740; Snails, $240 each; large Volute bowl $2,200 | Image: Ngoc Minh Ngo
Muehling’s timeless jewellery never disappoints, and the shop is full of his greatest hits, including Moth Wing earrings in 18ct gold ($750) and Olive Branch green-gold bracelets ($1,500), as well as newer pieces, such as a striking Tortoise cuff in agate ($3,800). The store offers a profusion of unexpected materials and combinations – pale pink conch shell, wood, rose gold, labradorite and luminescent moonstones – in rich and unique spectrums of colour. In addition to Muehling’s creations, the works of jewellers such as Gabriella Kiss, Lee Hale and Axel Russmeyer are woven into the shop-floor mix.
Ted Muehling hoop cluster earrings, with various precious stones, $800-$1,700 | Image: Ngoc Minh Ngo
Meanwhile, collaborations with Germany’s Nymphenburg Porcelain Manufactory have yielded 25 sculptural objects for the home, many inspired by seashells and eggshells. Volute bowls ($2,230), a coral vase with delicate perforations ($1,740) and Moon Snail dishes with matte exteriors and glossy interiors ($1,000-$2,200) all mimic surfaces found in nature. Another partnership, with Austrian glass company Lobmeyr, has produced a collection that includes engraved crystal carafes ($850-$1,500), convex and concave tumblers ($92) and decanters featuring hand-painted butterflies ($600-$1,000). Rounding out the selection is a line of Egg and Dart bronze candlesticks crafted in conjunction with ER Butler & Co in oxidised black, silver- and gold-plate finishes (from $288).
Egg and Dart candlesticks, $288-$1,088 | Image: Ngoc Minh Ngo
“In the words of Laurie Anderson,” says Muehling, “‘I’m not trying to be avant-garde. I’m just trying to do something beautiful.’” At this magical emporium, he certainly succeeds.
Jewellery made for gorgeous layering
Original designs inspired by travel, nature and the light of Los Angeles
Original designs inspired by travel, nature and the light of Los Angeles
It all started with a misguided walk down Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice Beach, the trendy Los Angeles neighborhood that’s home to artisans, wonderful restaurants, vintage shops, and primo examples of California-Cape Cod and mid-century architecture. I was looking for Gjelina, an of-the-moment Mediterranean restaurant, and instead happened upon an exquisite jewellery shop by the name of LFrank. Two stacking rings (from $450, first picture) later – and no squash blossom and thyme pizza ever found – and I’m a huge fan of artist Liseanne Frankfurt’s utterly unique, sculptural creations – all of which are inspired by her far-flung travels, as well as the art, fashion, and natural light that surrounds her.
LFrank designs were, for me, a whole new world of organic, understated adornments: rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets that are handcrafted using 18ct gold, moghul-cut diamonds in white, black and cognac hues, as well as pieces that incorporate a profusion of sapphires, tourmalines and moonstones. Each is one-of-a-kind, and many include subtle irregularities, which makes them even more special.
The simple stacking rings – in white, yellow, or rose gold – were what originally caught my eye, but upon further exploration, I’ve fallen in love with LFrank’s bolder collections. From a Diamond Pavé Greek Ring ($5,500) in white gold to a colourful Casbah Ring ($8,300) made of turquoise cabochons ($8,300), Frankfurt’s pieces successfully synthesise playfulness and elegance. The Diamond Medallion Loop Chain ($4,800) – a feminine, floral take on the traditional ID bracelet – can be customised using a variety of stones and shades of gold. The Open Loop Cuff ($9,500, third picture) – a bracelet comprised of numerous fine circles – can be specially ordered and makes a delicate statement. Frankfurt shines at necklace design too, and her offerings run the gamut from casual glass beads ($230-$4,500) to an adjustable Arc Fringe lariat ($8,950, second picture) with a fan of arcs that rests beautifully below the collarbone.
Bespoke commissions are a favourite for Frankfurt; her customers often bring stones, shells or other souvenirs back from their travels, and have her create an original design. Currently she’s working on an incredible branch coral necklace for a client who just returned from Morocco.
All of Frankfurt’s work – whether parts of her existing collections, or pieces made to order – is exquisitely crafted and above all, original. It is beyond merely pretty: these are pieces that elevate the art of everyday jewellery.