Bespoke bed linen to send the chic to sleep
Finest Egyptian cotton, woven in Italy, embroidered in England
Finest Egyptian cotton, woven in Italy, embroidered in England
Nothing says you’re a thoughtful (and deeply aesthetic) host quite like bespoke bed sheets. From their high thread counts to their exquisite, one-off finishes, they are an investment in sound sleep and general well-being that has nothing to do with outward show: they’re for you, and those you invite into your home. The elegant linens designed by Sandrine Champalimaud, however, are subtle works of art that are so beautiful as to warrant much wider display.
The Belgian-born designer’s bespoke business grew out of her interior design work, where, Champalimaud explains, “it was always difficult to find luxurious linens for exacting clients. Everything out there was either too plain or too traditional, and I wanted to offer something more contemporary.” Inspired by her travels – including the scenery and motifs she observed in Bhutan – Champalimaud has created a range of linens that can be entirely personalised through a client’s choice of colour and embroidery, as well as by unique dimensions.
The commissioning process is simple. Champalimaud readily travels to do in-home consultations, or can just as easily work with a client via email, to conceive a set of linens that complements any given space. Calling in some of her pre-existing patterns – such as the Ibo and Paro designs, which involve intricate, geometric detailing – she customises them using hues of pale grey, taupe, rich burgundy and bright orange (to name but a few of the options).
For those seeking a bolder graphic, the Amalgame and Polymath designs afford a wider, statement swathe of colour. Her Parure and Chyulu (pictured) designs also include linear, almost architectural patterns, but the common thread throughout, if you’ll forgive the pun, is the utterly tasteful subtlety of the accents.
All of Champalimaud’s Egyptian cotton-sateen sheets (hers are 300 thread count, because, she points out, “more than that and it’s actually hard to spot the difference”) are woven in Italy and then embroidered in England, which enhances their artisanal pedigree. Shams (£70-£115), flat and fitted sheets (£300-£400), king and super-king duvets (£595-£630) can all be ordered individually or in sets (from £1,300) and are available in about eight weeks.
Champalimaud has designed bespoke sheets for patrons from around the globe, as well as for fine hotels, including The Dorchester and the recently refurbished Hotel Bel Air in Los Angeles. They’re sure to be the most beautiful style statement you won’t be showing off to everyone…
Bespoke wooden boats destined as family treasures
Environmentally sustainable craft that stand the test of time
Environmentally sustainable craft that stand the test of time
I’ve seen a lot of extremely beautiful things in the course of writing this column – custom-made clothing, exquisite, one-off jewellery, and made-to-measure everything – but I don’t think any have been as spectacular as the bespoke wooden boats being produced by Artisan Boatworks, a group of singularly talented craftspeople based in Rockport, Maine.
“Many clients who come to us know what they want,” explains owner and master builder Alec Brainerd. “They’re looking for lasting value and environmentally sustainable boats that will stand the test of time. For many, the restoration of a family heirloom or the commission of a custom boat is the culmination of a lifelong dream.” And from precise replicas of classic designs to the latest in high-performance carbon-fibre and cold-moulded daysailers, racers, and cruisers, these are boats built to endure.
Artisan Boatworks brings new meaning to the “custom” concept – it works collaboratively with clients to meet deadlines, respect budgets (really) and ensure that the end result is exactly what you’re after. Bringing years of combined seafaring experience – Brainerd has sailed across the Atlantic, aboard a William Fife ketch, through the Med and around New Zealand, where he oversaw the refit of a 100ft 1939 Camper & Nicholsons yawl – this design collective is inspired by such yachting greats as Nathanael Herreshoff, Starling Burgess and John Alden to create vessels that “blend timeless beauty and wholesome performance”.
The classic rowboat – a Nutshell Pram with Norwegian origins, or a Catspaw Dinghy (from about $5,000-$50,000) – can be elevated to high art, and makes a great tender for a larger coastal cruising yacht. Sailboat varieties are endless and include the Nantucket Indian, a small keel daysailer that performs well in a range of conditions; the Murmur (pictured); the Haven 12½, a hard-to-capsize boat (all from about $70,000); and the Boothbay Harbor One Design (price on request), a daysailer that is capable of great speeds.
Particularly special are the Watch Hill 15s (from about $150,000) – fast, responsive beauties that ply the water with slick ease – as well as the International Dragon, a European-inspired racing-class boat that’s built to handle rough waters (price on request). These specialised creations feature hull planking of northern white cedar, frames of bent oak, finishes of Burma teak and Sitka spruce, as well as brightwork crafted from Honduras mahogany – all of which combine to “satisfy the senses in a way that a boat constructed with synthetic materials never will”.
Artisan Boatworks’ wooden heirlooms are delivered all over the world – from the south of France to the UK to Newport, Rhode Island – and as Brainerd points out: “The value in these boats is in the pedigree, not in adding unnecessary bells and whistles. We work within an aesthetic element and these boats continue a tradition that spans the centuries. They will always be the choice of a true connoisseur.” Here’s to a lifetime of smooth sailing…
Tara Bernerd talks personal taste: Part One
Interior designer Tara Bernerd is chairman of her eponymous design company. Her latest project is a 47m Turkish superyacht.
Interior designer Tara Bernerd is chairman of her eponymous design company. Her latest project is a 47m Turkish superyacht.
Tara Bernerd in her Knightsbridge office. | Image: Jude Edginton
My personal style signifier is a large three-part “Bondage” ring by Loree Rodkin that I wear every day. It has lots of attitude to it. Loree came to my house in London several years ago, emptied her Kelly bag full of jewellery on my bed, and I selected it from the wonderful pile. It isn’t very conventional, but neither am I. Browns, 24-27 South Molton Street, London W1 (020-7514 0016; brownsfashion.com). www.loreerodkin.com and see Browns.
The last thing I bought and loved was a lens table by B&B Italia. I recently moved and had very little furniture, so I needed a dining and work table quickly. I wandered into the Brompton Road showroom and they had the table on hand and let me take it right off the floor. My white and glass version serves as the centrepiece in my new home. From £438; 250 Brompton Rd, London SW3 (020-7591 8111; www.bebitalia.it).
A Murano-glass vase from Talisman, £345.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a 1940s or 1950s Murano-glass ashtray or vase from Talisman. I collect these chunky, sculptural pieces and I follow the inventory to see what has come up. Ashtrays, from £260; vases, from £345; 79-91 New King’s Road, London SW6 (020-7731 4686; www.talismanlondon.com).
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the last year is Göcek in southern Turkey. I sailed with a group of friends on a gulet called Cobra King through stunningly beautiful turquoise waters. This part of Turkey is truly untouched and magical; our chef cooked wonderful local delicacies such as menemen, a scrambled egg dish with tomatoes. The whole scene was like an opulent Dutch painting, complete with terracotta scenery and the scent of sweet pine. From €21,000 a week through Inter Yacht Charter (020-8099 5941; www.interyachtcharter.com).
The beauty staple I’m never without is Yves Saint Laurent lipstick Rouge Volupté #2, a creamy-beige hue that is increasingly difficult to find. The other is Boudoir by Vivienne Westwood, a perfume that was given to me by a friend when I was 19 years old, and that I’ve worn ever since. £50 for 50ml; www.viviennewestwood.co.uk. £23.50; www.yslbeauty.co.uk.
The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a white Alexander McQueen smoking-type jacket. I will wear it for evening this summer – it will look perfect paired with Rick Owens jeans and a James Perse T-shirt. 4-5 Old Bond Street, London W1 (020-7355 0088; www.alexandermcqueen.com).
A bay off Göcek, Fethiye, Turkey. | Image: Alamy
A recent “find” is the restaurant La Bodega Negra. The whole thing is clever, from the hidden entrance via a “sex shop” to the authentic, old-school Mexican feel of the space. It is edgy yet intimate – and feels like an escape to New York City really, due to its lack of formality and interesting clientele. The margaritas and roast chicken are fantastic. 9 Old Compton Street, London W1 (020-7758 4100; labodeganegra.com).
The last music I downloaded was Chasing Cars by Snow Patrol. I Shazamed it from TV; I thought it was a pensive song and I like listening to it in quieter moments. www.shazam.com.
Lens tables by B&B Italia, from £438.
The books on my bedside table are varied, and are usually historical, or fiction. I am currently reading The Fountainhead by Ayn Rand, which I love for its look into society. Atlas Shrugged is always on my bedside table in Switzerland; I love Dagny’s quote about the “exhilaration of action”, which I can relate to.
In my fridge you’ll always find… not very much! Not even water, as I prefer it at room temperature. You might find Diet Coke, or fennel, which I like raw with olive oil and a bit of salt. On occasion there will also be salad greens and fresh parmesan cheese.
Boudoir by Vivienne Westwood, £50 for 50ml.
The best gift I’ve received recently is a pair of Troy Lee-designed Rossignol skis. I am an avid skier and getting these fluorescent-pink carving beauties made me feel like I was 12 years old again. www.rossignol.com.
My favourite websites are 1st Dibs, for the mix of antiques from both the UK and the US; Stylepark, a search engine for design; and MyDeco, full of home things from my good friend Brent Hoberman. I also love his site Made.com, for great deals in design. www.1stdibs.com. www.made.com. www.mydeco.com. www.stylepark.com.
Bespoke books crafted in the European tradition
Handmade editions from a US printer with a royal following
Handmade editions from a US printer with a royal following
Housed in a complex of old factory buildings in New York’s Hudson Valley sits Thornwillow Press, a maker of beautiful papers and bespoke books of all kinds. Thornwillow’s founder, Luke Ives Pontifell, modelled it after the classical English binderies of the late-19th and early-20th centuries. He believes strongly that there is a place for such craftsmanship in today’s busy, BlackBerry-filled world.
Perhaps because of the 14 years he owned a paper mill in the Czech Republic producing handmade papers, as well as working with skilled bookbinders in England, he brings a distinctively European approach to the increasingly rare craft of making books; though, of course, his business is now entirely based in Newburgh, New York.
Pontifell has achieved no small degree of success over the years. His custom work is found not only in private collections, but also in the White House, the American Museum in Bath, the British Library and New York’s Morgan Library and Century Club. He also counts royal bibliophiles such as Prince Charles and the Queen herself among Thornwillow’s ardent fans.
The commissioning process is simple. Once a client has selected a text that he or she would like specially bound (or restored and re-bound) – these have ranged from first editions of Dostoyevsky and Dr Seuss to family heirlooms – the process of “co-creation” begins. The options for book types and finishes are almost endless. From wedding memory boxes to guest books (from $1,250) to self-published novels, Thornwillow can create full or half-leather versions (from $2,000) – complete with exquisite papers, decorated gold or blind tooling, hand-sewn head bands and custom leather spine labels – to fulfil a client’s wishes. Leather colours range from deep scarlet to emerald green to traditional beige; archival-quality materials and even decorative carnelians make each tome a true work of art.
Thornwillow turns its talents to requests both large and small. A recent commission of Moby Dick included an exquisitely carved roundel made of mastodon ivory tusk embedded into the book’s front cover ($20,000), while smaller projects, such as love-letter compilations and photo albums, are always popular. For the person who is truly passionate about the written word, a private printing of an entire edition (from $5,000 to upwards of $350,000) is the ultimate bespoke option. There are also “extra-illustrated books” – those that have added letters (for example, a biography of President Johnson including original correspondence), introductions, poems, or images – that allow a collector to further personalise or update a particular text.
Every work of published art can be housed in a custom cloth-and-leather clamshell box (from $825), a keepsake available in a vibrant range of saturated hues (canary yellow, cherry red and grey are particularly lovely) that serves to protect the book, while also decorating any room that houses it.
Regardless of the size and scope of the commission, a client is involved from start to finish; initial meetings are always followed by emailed proofs that detail everything from the book’s spine to fonts to titling – right down to the decorative endpapers.
A tinted treatment that turns back the clock
A miracle-working liquid that is a foundation, moisturiser and more
A miracle-working liquid that is a foundation, moisturiser and more
With regard to all things beauty, I’m pretty much drugstore the whole way. It’s not that I am some ravishing young thing who can easily get away with this low-maintenance approach; it’s simply that I’m a bit lazy and somewhat stingy in the product-buying area. In general, soap and water – with a dollop of moisturiser and occasional lashings of mascara – and I’m good to go. I also tend not to believe the hype when it comes to the latest beauty buzz surrounding laser technology, injectable things and magic serums of any sort.
All of this was true until I stumbled upon Peau Vierge Anti-Aging Complexe by Le Métier de Beauté not too long ago. This (literal) silver bullet of a tinted treatment fluid provides exactly what my dull, somewhat splotchy skin had been crying out for. It gives sheer coverage that feels like moisturiser and not foundation, while seeming to truly smooth and re-invigorate my complexion.
Apparently it is the combination of four products in one (foundation, SPF20, anti-ageing retinol and a “brightener”) that allows this miracle liquid to increase blood flow to the skin for immediate results, as well as stimulate collagen production and lighten, noticeably, my fine lines (not to mention the bags under my eyes) with just a few applications.
Each 1oz cylinder of the talc-, fragrance- and dye-free treatment goes a long way, since you apply it just once daily to the face and neck. It’s available in three shades – one with apricot undertones, another neutral beige and one with a golden base that’s perfect for darker skin colours. A couple of pumps provides coverage that freshens me up without making me shiny, and lasts a working day without need for a touch-up.
I am certainly no scientist and, as previously mentioned, I don’t generally go in for beauty “miracles”; but Peau Vierge Anti-Aging Complexe is the exception to my scepticism. It makes my skin feel tighter, my pores look smaller, and best of all – my litmus for a quality beauty product – I have no time or thinking added to my morning routine, as this one little bullet covers so many bases.
Made-to-measure bicycles for every occasion
A master Japanese bike builder offers the perfect custom ride
A master Japanese bike builder offers the perfect custom ride
For the truly dedicated rider, a bespoke bicycle is just about as good as it gets. And few are finer than the road (first picture) and track versions handcrafted by Kinfolk Studios, a multidisciplinary design and production company based in Tokyo and Williamsburg, Brooklyn.
Founded in 2008 by four friends, hailing respectively from New York, Los Angeles, Sydney and Tokyo – who sought a fifth partner in master bicycle craftsman Kusaka-San (second picture) – Kinfolk has grown from strength to strength, driven by a desire to produce functional, sculptural bicycles.
“With a custom bike the rider can get a perfect fit as well as the exact colours and design he or she wants,” explains co-founder John Beullens. “It also allows them to get deep into the technical options of the bike. Our customer is someone who appreciates very high quality and attention to detail.”
Ordering a custom Kinfolk frame (or the entire outfitted bicycle, if you wish) is made quite simple through a series of initial emails and phone calls. No visit to Kusaka-San is required; clients simply provide details, such as their height, inside leg and colour preferences (a vibrant array of paint finishes, including glossy, matt or metallic, is available), to get the commission process started. Kusaka-San then puts his 30-plus years of experience in the bike-building business to use, handcrafting a client’s dream ride. After a career spent making track bikes for Japan’s competitive Keirin racers, he is now widely regarded as one of the country’s top builders.
Each Custom Track Frame Set (from £1,098) comes standard with Tange No 1 tubing, a Kalavinka lug set, a threaded circular fork and a Kusaka seat stay cluster, as well as a gorgeous chrome finish. Extra options include a variety of tubing types, additional forks, seats and intricate detailing. If a classic steel-lugged road bike (from £1,253) – an old-school style (think classic ten-speed) that’s perfect for cruising around town and enduring longer distances – is more your speed, then Kinfolk can easily fulfill that wish as well. If you’re a real nomad, then the International bike (from £1,638) is ideal as it can be disassembled.
Kinfolk Studios produces about six to 10 bicycles per month, and delivery takes four to six weeks, depending on the model and level of customisation. Completely finished bicycles – with state-of-the-art tyres, comfy seats and handlebars – range in price from £2,300 to £4,600 (urban bike in third picture). For the passionate cyclist, they’re worth every penny.
Ten Best London Family Hotels
Get Your Bearings
The best family-friendly hotels are typically found in South London, which has abundant green spaces and green grocers and is close to tourist attractions. Central London is pricier, but also close to attractions. North London is slim pickings. Here are our parent- and kid-approved favorites.
South London
The Berkeley
32a Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RL; +44-20-7235-6000
It has a rooftop pool. Enough said. And it's near Hyde Park, Harrods, and Yo Sushi! at the top of Harvey Nichols.
Knightsbridge Hotel
10 Beaufort Gardens, Knightsbridge, SW3 1PT; +44-20-7584-6300
One of the Firmdale hotels on a quiet square steps from Brompton Road, Hyde Park, and Beauchamp Place. Bonus points for the life-saving Pizza Express nearby.
The Milestone Hotel
Kids will love the pomp and circumstance - porters in top hats, high tea in the overly chintzy dining room - at this Kensington classic. Hyde Park, the Natural History Museum, and the hotel's subterranean, small pool are all welcome escapes on the occasional hot, summer day. Don't miss the comprehensive breakfast spread at Cheneston's where proper sausages, "soldiers" and baked tomatoes are served in a particularly English setting.
The Baglioni Hotel
This elegant property sits opposite Kensington Palace and puts you in striking distance to the Princess Diana Playground, Buckingham Palace, and the kid-centric Science Museum, as well as the mega Whole Foods on Kensington High Street. Enjoy the breakfast feast on the patio and head across the street to Wagamama for lunches of family-friendly ramen served at communal tables. Spacious second floor suites with separate sitting areas and park views are ideal for families.
Breakfast at The Baglioni. Photo courtesy of The Baglioni Hotel.
Central London
The Arch
Great Cumberland Place, Marylebone, W1H 7FD; +44-20-7724-4700
An 82-room boutique hotel perfect for exploring the shops of Bond and Regent Streets as well as the London Zoo in beautiful Regents Park. Even better, it's very affordable, especially considering the neighborhood. Kids will love burgers in the lobby Brasserie or afternoon tea in the library at this modern, somewhat hidden gem (which you'd call a "bolthole" if you were trying to be British about it).
The Athanaeum
116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ; +44-20-7499-3464
A family-owned hotel sandwiched between Hyde Park and Green Park and known for it's family-friendliness, down to the special kid's concierge and nannies on staff. The hotel will stock your room or apartment with kids' favorite drinks. Age-appropriate diversions range from kites, bikes, and frisbees to movies and PlayStations. For infants, organic baby food, Baby Einstein DVDs, and disposable diapers are all available.
The pool at The Berkeley Hotel.
Four Seasons London at Park Lane
Hamilton Place, Mayfair, W1J 7DR; +44-20-7499-0888
When it comes to kids, few do it better than the Four Seasons, and this newly refurbished hotel is no exception. Perfectly located near Hyde Park, kids will love the ease of access to playgrounds, ponds, and paddle boats in warmer months. Winter Wonderland, a cheesy and terrific London highlight filled with games, rides, and general holiday cheer, runs from November to January and is literally across the street. The top-notch concierges can arrange everything from horseback rides to proper high tea complete with cucumber sandwiches and sweet scones with clotted cream.
The Corinthia
Whitehall Place, Charing Cross, SW1A 2BD; +44-20-7321-3000
Well located near Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden, this grand (almost ridiculously so) new hotel is great for exploring The Crown Jewels at Tower of London, The London Eye, and a truly terrific Aquarium. River suites offer separate spacious sitting rooms as well as sweeping views of the Thames. With more than four restaurants to choose from, kids and their discerning parents can feast on everything from Cumbrian beef burgers and crisp chips at The Northall to fresh shellfish at Massimo Oyster Bar.
Photo courtesy of The Corinthia London.
North London
London Marriot Hotel Maida Vale
Plaza Parade, Maida Vale, NW6 5RP; +44-20-7543-2100
Location, location, location. This one isn't full of charm, but it is perfectly placed for exploring the charming shops and restaurants of this North London area. Don't miss nearby Little Venice, an area full of houseboats and local color. If you're looking for more true Brit, Lord's Cricket Ground is just down the street.
St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel London
Euston Road, Kings Cross, NW1 2AR; +44-20-7841-3540
After a decade-long renovation, this massive Victorian gem has great family accommodations. High ceilings and ornate moldings recall the past; free WiFi and spacious rooms are modern comforts. Bonus points for the subterranean swimming pool and the fact that you're literally seconds from the Eurostar which departs from St. Pancras Station. It's a Marriott, which means you can use your miles on the rates. Just know that rooms in the older building are superior to those in the new wing.
More Affordable Options
MyHotel Chelsea
35 Ixworth Place, Chelsea, SW3 3QX; +44-20-7225-7500
Slightly mod, low-key, and absolutely well-placed near Chelsea Green. A delicious breakfast spread, proximity to great restaurants for kids (conveyor belt sushi at Itsu, perfect steak frites at La Brasserie), and St. Luke's playground are all pluses.
The Sloane Square Hotel
7-12 Sloane Square, Chelsea, SW1W 8EG; +44-20-7896-9988
This one has family rooms — a rarity in the UK and Europe — where four can fit semi-comfortably. Well-situated to Peter Jones (department store where you'll inevitably end up after having forgotten some key piece of equipment) and the King's Road. Proximity to the Duke of Yorks Square add to the appeal.
The Royal Garden Hotel
What it lacks in charm, it more than makes up for with its killer location on Hyde Park and sleekly appointed rooms. One of the more modern hotels in this residential area, it offers rooms designed for families (interconnecting options, larger suites) as well as the top floor Min Jiang restaurant. With enormous, panoramic views overlooking the park and excellent dim sum and craft cocktails, the restaurant alone is worth a detour.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Find restaurants, shops, itineraries, and things to do in our London Guide.
MAP IT
See all the hotels mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)
BUT WAIT, MORE FAMILY TRAVEL IN LONDON
Three Days in London with the Kids
Classics and Royals
Just Back From: Prague
Just back from: Prague, Czech Republic.
Was it your first time? Yes.
How long were you there? 36 hours.
Why did you go? I've always wanted to see this city of castles and gothic churches, and since I'm living in London, it was an easy time to visit. The flight time is less than two hours.
Who were you with? My 9-year-old daughter, Kate. She is the most curious, easy-going traveler ever.
What was the best tip you got before you left? I had been warned me about trying to visit Charles Bridge during crowded daytime hours when everything is jammed with vendors and tourists. We took an after-dinner stroll instead. It was calm, and the fairytale castle was twinkling in the distance. The second tip came from a Trip Advisor post warning that cobblestone streets are hellish on the feet, especially in the colder winter months. So we packed thick, rubber-soled shoes, and that made a huge difference.
What's the #1 tip you'd give to a friend who wanted to go? Stay at the Four Seasons Prague. It's perfectly situated for exploring the New and Old Towns, the Prague Castle, Old Town Square, and Wenceslas Square. They also completely get kids: Those in-room amenities go a long way. (My daughter is a sucker for a robe, slippers, and colored bath tints.) Oh, and bring comfortable walking shoes for sure. Those cobblestones are everywhere.
What did you do: We knocked it out in a day. First stop was the castle complex to visit the Royal Palace, the Monastery, and St. Vitus Cathedral, which has stunning stained glass windows. Then a bit of light shopping — puppets, postcards — followed by a delicious lunch at Pizzeria Rugantino. Arugula salad and prosciutto have never looked so good. Our afternoon was spent climbing the Old Tower Bridge for views of the city (this is vertigo-inducing), crossing the Charles Bridge, exploring the Jewish Quarter, and the Old Town Square. After watching the gorgeous Astronomical Clock ring, we enjoyed strudel (the local specialty) and coffee in one of the cafes along the square. After relaxing at the hotel (read: bad TV, a wonderful bath, and teatime), we headed to a festive dinner at Barock, complete with a slightly cheesy piano player. Lovely view across the street to the Jewish synagogue and cheerful service, too.
Were you there for the right amount of time? I tend to have a short attention span, so 36 hours anywhere works well for me. I would, however, love to see Prague in summer when everything is in full flower, so maybe I'll make it a whole weekend next time.
This was especially great: The castle complex at night is pretty spectacular, especially with a light dusting of snow. Think Anna Karenina meets DisneyWorld.
But this wasn't: The food, generally speaking. I had flashbacks to Russia: not too many vegetables, lots of fried things, beef goulash at every turn. My only other gripe was that there are few crosswalks, and getting slammed by a high-speed tram is a very real possibility.
Speed round of favorites.
1. Meal: Tough one. Barock is as much of a scene as Prague has to offer, and their mix of incredibly fresh sushi, typical Czech dishes, and meat was good. Any restaurant with the tagline "delicious meal and beautiful women" is going to be a hoot.
2. Neighborhood: The Jewish Quarter.
3. Site: The baroque splendor of St. Nicholas Church.
4. Café: Café Mistral. Near the hotel and perfect for a light meal and a glass of wine.
Kodak moment: Snow falling around the Old Town Square as we watched the Astronomical Clock — with its procession of the twelve apostles — ring out on the hour.
Thing you didn't get to visit: The Christmas Markets are meant to be wonderful, so I'd like to return for that sometime. The beer gardens are also supposed to be festive and fun during the summer. But next time I am going to check out The Augustine, a Rocco Forte hotel in a former monastery that still has an order of friars living on-site. Apparently, they will take you for tours around the libraries, cloister, and church.
What did you bring back? The Czech Republic is the land of marionettes, so we brought back a spectacular Pippi Longstocking puppet for Kate's room. We scored a matryoshka doll set of the LA Lakers for my son — handmade in Prague and featuring all of the players (Kobe Bryant, Lamar Odom) in one case. The perfect mix of Americana and local color!
Would you go back? Definitely.
Any surprises? It was much smaller and more walkable than I had imagined. It was also architecturally beautiful throughout — not just the famous sights. Even the offices and apartment building are spectacular in that Parisian way. I was surprised at the weird US brands that kept cropping up — TGIFridays and Hooters seem remarkably out of place amidst all the medieval, romanesque, and gothic beauty. I was also pleasantly surprised by the customs procedure at the airport — or the lack of it. No landing cards, only a cursory glance at passports, and just a big smile from the agent. Not exactly a JFK experience!
I can't stop thinking about: The spectacular view from my bed, overlooking the Vlatava River with Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral in the distance.
FIND IT
Four Seasons Prague
Veleslavínova 1098/2a
110 00 Prague 1-Old Town, Czech Republic
+420-221-427-000
MAP IT
See the locations mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)
Supremely elegant bespoke shoes that last a lifetime
A craftswoman who creates dream designs and expert fits in Florence
A craftswoman who creates dream designs and expert fits in Florence
Female artisans don’t typically dominate the cobblers’ market; this is just part of what makes Vivian Saskia Wittmer’s bespoke creations so special. Born in Berlin, trained in Hamburg under master shoemaker Benjamin Klemann and later Florentine cobbler Stefano Bemer, Wittmer (second picture) now crafts custom shoes, boots and other footwear in a creative process that is entirely client-driven. The end result is a unique pair of shoes built to afford the wearer a lifetime of comfort and enduring quality.
Starting with a trip to her cheerful atelier on Florence’s Via Santa Lucia, the feet of customers – predominantly men, but women as well – are measured, a model is cast (€400), and Wittmer then crafts the shoe around it over a period of approximately four to five months. In her years of creating bespoke designs she’s touched on every style and type, from one-piece pumps that work well for the city, to hunting boots suitable for safaris, to simple ballerina flats, to sky-high heels created to match an elegant evening gown (ladies’ shoes from €1,300). She encourages customers to bring favourite old shoes, sketches, tear sheets, fabrics and finishes for inspiration.
She then sets about creating dream footwear, both inside and out. She requests extensive information about a client’s lifestyle – geography and sartorial needs are taken firmly into consideration – then makes recommendations on everything from construction and closures to the lining of each shoe. She works in a wide variety of high-quality skins and materials, including cordovan, elephant, ostrich, kangaroo, perch, shark, camel, crocodile (first picture) and the ever-popular calfskin. All of her designs are hand stitched – and either Goodyear or Norwegian welted – for beautiful lines that are completely one-of-a-kind and admirably sturdy at the same time.
The process of building a bespoke shoe with Wittmer is a delight, and clients who are pleased with their investment find it easy to repeat the process; the model cast for each client’s foot is kept at her studio so that a future full of scarpe su misura can become a reality.
Exquisite ceramics inspired by nature and prehistory
A south-west ceramicist who creates beautiful sculptural pieces
A south-west ceramicist who creates beautiful sculptural pieces
I am by no means a fine-art collector, but I do love what I love; and for the past 10 years I’ve been rather obsessed with the work of Paul Philp, an under-the-radar ceramicist based in Bath.
I came to know his work through the International Fine Art and Antique Dealers Show in New York (his gallerist brother, Richard, was exhibiting old master drawings, medieval and renaissance sculpture and antiquities) – and, it seems, I’ve followed him all the way back to Britain. I recently decided to track him down and learn a bit more about his unusual craft, over a decade since I first purchased one of his pieces: an exquisitely simple white bowl that is still the centrepiece of my sitting room.
Inspired by “nature and geology, as well as weathered monuments such as Stonehenge”, Philp’s work is unlike most other items you’re likely to find on the contemporary ceramics market. Each of his lovingly created bowls, vessels and sculptures grows organically as he builds it piece by piece – adding the clay slowly by hand, rather than using a wheel. With a mix of Devon ball clay, Staffordshire fire clay and earthenware clay, as well as sea sand, tree bark and crushed firebricks, he produces a wide range of textures and encrusted surfaces. Between the firings at extreme temperatures (there can be up to five, with both gas and electric kilns used), Philp carves, refines and adds colour to his pieces – brushed-on iron and copper oxides are sealed in white or wet clay – for an overall effect that is full of subtle fissures and crags, each emitting a delicate glaze.
While he creates a wide array of dark and light pieces, Philp tends to prefer white or neutral shades, and feels his work is best suited to the indoors, where it is spared both water and frost. His sculptural creations – mostly ranging in height from 15cm to 35cm – are both classical in form and Asian in feel.
“I have a flint boulder found on the beach at Charmouth,” he told me, “that is as good as any Henry Moore”. My sentiments – about his work – exactly.
Richard Philp Gallery, 7 Ravenscourt Square, London W6 (020-8748 5678; www.richardphilp.com). Prices start from £900.
The Gucci Museum offers exclusive treats
A temple to the double-bit logo’s past and present, with a great shop
A temple to the double-bit logo’s past and present, with a great shop
Usually I come to Florence to immerse myself in the Renaissance: the massive Duomo, the treasures of the Uffizi, that sort of thing – with an occasional stroll down Via Tornabuoni thrown in for good (retail) measure. But my most recent trip found me at the Gucci Museo – a special exhibition space, shop and bustling café all rolled into one fabulous 14th-century palazzo at the heart of the Piazza della Signoria that opened last October.
It offers a wonderful juxtaposition of old and new – Medici history mixed with the house’s iconic motifs (not to mention a seriously tricked-out 1970s Cadillac Seville). I had a ball discovering everything from Gucci golf clubs to luggage to brocade gowns to elegant crystal-studded minaudières. After a spin through spaces both blinged-out and somewhat bare – and with a stop in the Contemporary Art area to watch a video installation by Bill Viola – I headed straight for the ground-floor shop. And here’s where this place really gets interesting.
It turns out the museum’s shop sells the marque’s Icon Collection – including exclusive pieces only available at this particular Florence location. Not on the Via Montenapoleone, or at Rome’s Fiumicino Airport – not even over at the Florence flagship store, on the Via Tornabuoni: only here. I found a colourful array of leather and crocodile bags and horsebit moccasins (examples in first picture; from €580 for leather, €4,750 for crocodile), as well as the timeless Flora scarf (€380), made famous by Grace Kelly and recently reintroduced by Gucci’s creative director, Frida Giannini. There are bangle watches (second picture, €2,500) with various vibrant casings, and bamboo-trimmed wallets (from €589) and riding boots (women’s €980, men’s €990) made specially for the collection.
Now, I’m by no means suggesting you forgo the Bargello or the Pitti Palace on your next visit to this magical city. But do stop at the Museo for an uplifting and unexpected – and, in the Icon Collection’s case, 100 per cent unique – look at the past, present and future of Gucci.
Farm-to-table and fabulous: only in LA
Comfort food with a SoCal twist at a west Los Angeles eatery
Comfort food with a SoCal twist at a west Los Angeles eatery
Fresh, innovative food: nobody does it better than Californians. Full stop. Whenever I visit Santa Monica, one of my first stops is always Rustic Canyon, Huckleberry or Sweet Rose Creamery, three wholesomely delicious local favourites, all within about a three-mile radius and all run by the same team, Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan. I’d heard a lot about their latest venture, called Milo + Olive, down on Wilshire – so this visit, I made a beeline.
Image: Emily Hart
At lunch or dinner, you’ll likely find all 24 seats packed. The stars are the eight to ten daily pizzas, which include everything from a butternut squash pie ($18) – complete with fresh mozzarella, caramelised onion, sage and brown butter – to the meat lover’s pork belly sausage-topped variety ($17).
But, for me, breakfast is the thing. There are fresh baked goods of every imaginable kind – M+O bagels, for example, feature sophisticated toppings such as housemade dill creme fraiche, sliced cucumbers, red onion and sea salt ($5). I’ll go for heartier options, too – Cheesy Eggs on Super Cheesy Toast (soft scrambled eggs laden with Parmigiano Reggiano and, if I’m feeling particularly ravenous, a few slices of La Quercia prosciutto on top; $8), as well as the requisite SoCal repast of muesli ($6.50) with fresh market berries on the side. The joy here is in the mix-up: they do daily doughnuts and vegan gluten-free muffins, sourdough skillet flatbread and cinnamon sugar brioche.
I wash it all down with a Verve Roasters coffee ($2.75) or a freshly squeezed grapefruit juice ($5.50), and my day’s off to a guaranteed sunny start – even when Santa Monica’s famous morning fog is lingering outside.
This one’s all LA, all the way...
Custom fly-fishing rods that will delight any angler
A US craftsman who produces sought-after bamboo fishing rods
A US craftsman who produces sought-after bamboo fishing rods
Bill Oyster works from a tiny shop in the mountains of Georgia, in the United States. He is an angler and an artisan, self-taught in both skills, who crafts some 65 custom fly-fishing rods each year (examples in first picture). He’s responsible for every detail, right down to meticulously engraving the nickel-silver hardware.
“Custom work makes the rod a very personal thing, and also allows me to push my own abilities in an attempt to realise my customer’s vision,” explains Oyster. Wives, husbands and friends call to commission these special poles, which can be used to fish for everything from trout to heavier steelhead salmon.
Starting with basic information about the client’s fishing style – where the rod will be used, how often, for what kind of fish – Oyster begins the process of engineering a fly rod in the appropriate weight range that is both functional and truly beautiful. Each one starts existence as a raw stalk of bamboo cane that is split, planed down and pieced back together to form a hexagonal shape. From there it is outfitted with a top-of-the-line English Hardy reel, and an exquisite rattan grip. Finally, embellishments are added, often very personal, that take the form of deep-relief and bulino (very fine) engravings in the silver details that are specific to the client’s wishes (example in second picture). Oyster, who learned this skill from a gunsmith, takes particular pride in bringing everything from family crests to hunting scenes to favourite dogs to life.
Each rod requires between 40 and 100 hours of labour, and commissions generally take about six months, depending on the complexity and level of detail. In addition to custom orders, there are also several pre-made models available for sale, but they tend to get snapped up very quickly. The most basic is the Signature Series ($1,840) – a three-piece, extra tip version available in a range of sizes and weights. At the other end of the tricked-out spectrum is the Epic Series (from $9,049), featuring everything from a hand-engraved downlocking reel seat to bulino game scenes to a handmade and very elegant leather carrying case for the whole package.
So special are these American beauties that heads of state and anglers from around the globe vie for a place on Oyster’s waiting list (rods are made on a first-come basis and can cost up to $15,000). And what sets Bill Oyster’s fast fly rods apart is not just aesthetics, but the pleasure of the process as well; he’s cited by one and all as a delight to work with from start to finish.
Customised coats that banish the winter blues
Happycoat’s Tilla Lindig creates fun, fashionable one-off outerwear
Happycoat’s Tilla Lindig creates fun, fashionable one-off outerwear
Notting Hill-based Tilla Lindig is busy creating a collection of accessible customisable coats. After five years spent building her retail brand in the UK and Europe, she is now focusing on Happycoat, a bespoke business centred around functional, fashionable outerwear – not to mention chic capes and fitted jackets – that is crafted from exquisitely soft wool, in virtually every flattering cut and colour combination imaginable.
A visit to her design space is like a trip to a casual atelier. Raised in Nuremberg by parents in the luxury-fashion-retail industry, she worked at both Giorgio Armani and Christian Dior before launching her own line in 1999. She draws heavily on European tradition for her designs – fine tailoring and attention to detail are de rigeur – but it’s the mix of classic elements (think loden jackets, hand-finished cuffs, woven leather buttons) with just a touch of militaristic Mao thrown in for good measure that makes her pieces so versatile and timeless. All separates are made from Italian wool fabrics, and are produced in Lindig’s native Germany using fair-trade practices.
Her new bespoke process is quite simple. After you sift through a wide selection of pre-made coats in a variety of styles and fabrics (some more wintry, some double-faced, others perfect for spring’s in-between days), Lindig helps identify the shape and colour that bests suits your lifestyle. From the classic Style I (from £350) – a lightweight, unlined coat available in a variety of pastel, bright and classic tones – to the snappy Style IV (second picture, from £380), or structured Kate jacket (named after the Duchess of Cambridge, of course; from £550) in cheerful cerise and purple, the designer is happy to adapt existing models to suit individual needs. You’d like the zippy 1960s cape (first picture, from £550) in toned-down taupe? Simple closures versus bold Bavarian buttons? Lindig is happy to oblige. In addition, she offers a limited number of outerwear options for men and children, all just as stylish as those in the women’s range.
Each commission takes approximately two weeks to complete, but if it’s instant gratification you seek, many of the 40-plus ready-to-wear styles in the Happycoat collection are available online as well, with a new e-boutique opening on the site this spring. In any case, wearing a Lindig piece – especially one in a vibrant tangerine, sky blue or hot-pink hue – will help put a skip in your step for spring.
A museum shop full of marvellous miscellany
Quirky and classical gifts, with the imprimatur of an English tastemaker
Quirky and classical gifts, with the imprimatur of an English tastemaker
If you’ve ever been to the spectacularly eclectic house-collection that is Sir John Soane’s Museum in central London, then you know it is a gem of Regency art and architecture. Its gift shop is no less wonderful, but as the part of the complex that houses it is undergoing a major renovation, the museum’s eclectic e-boutique is your best bet for finding fascinating books, objets d’art and curiosities of all kinds.
The site is clearly divided into 11 well-edited sections that make navigation a breeze. Start in the Books area, where museum director Tim Knox’s beautiful coffee-table tome, Sir John Soane’s Museum London (second picture, £24.95), offers an extensive history of the collection, complete with stunning photographs by Derry Moore. There are all kinds of paper goods – a Leporello three-dimensional cut-out card (£5.95), standard greeting cards and postcards – as well as a Piranesi notebook (8.50) for sketching.
In Kitchen & Home you’ll find a rather unexpected selection of tea towels, including one depicting the dark Mephistopheles by Eugène Delacroix (£5.50) that could certainly take the prize for most unique – if not also most ghoulish – gift. Another intriguing item is the Tea Tidy (third picture, £4.50) with an image of a skull from The Grave by Louis Schiavonetti after William Blake. While they won’t be to everyone’s taste, they are definitely original.
The real beauty here, however, lies in objects such as a plaster replica model of The Temple of Vesta at Tivoli (available in March, first picture, £1,250). This copy of Francois Fouquet’s original by Bath-based artist Timothy Richards features a glass dome and a mahogany base – and it will be delivered to your door, complete with gorgeous packaging. For the jewellery lover, the Soane site offers a unique collection of Extasia hand-pressed cameo and intaglio necklaces (£95-220) that incorporate jet, black diamond, and slate-coloured German glass, all hung on stylishly chunky chains.
It’s a treasure trove of unexpected delights – the perfect match for the museum whose name it shares.
The fine art of American farm-to-table dining online
Perfect house presents from New York’s Blue Hill restaurants
Perfect house presents from New York’s Blue Hill restaurants
The latest offering from the talented team behind New York’s Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns restaurants is an online emporium offering everything from delicious Hudson Valley honeys to stylish blown-glass decanters (second picture, from $285). Those always on the lookout for perfect house presents – hostess gifts, small birthday offerings for foodie friends – will be able to stockpile gifts both large and small. A bonus: all are delivered in exquisitely simple packaging.
Image: Jonathan Young
While it is noted chef and author Dan Barber who garners most of the Blue Hill press, it is his design director sister-in-law, Laureen, who has brought this e-commerce venture to life. With her background in marketing and graphic design, she is the person responsible for ensuring that the look and feel of each restaurant – not to mention the aesthetic integrity of every last tabletop piece – reflects the philosophy of the locally sourced, seasonal food that is served. She’s managed to extend the physical Blue Hill experience (and a visit to either the city or country outpost is a tasteful treat for all the senses) to this website.
The Blue Hill motto is “know thy farmer”, and a browse around the carefully curated Pantry section leaves one feeling like an informed local. There are jams (first picture, $14) both fanciful (blueberry currant) and familiar (raspberry), freshly roasted coffee beans (third picture, $13.50), and Blue Hill Granola ($8), a mix of organic spelt flakes, golden flax seeds and just a smidge of honey (from grower Fred Kirshenmann’s nearby farm).
Image: Jonathan Young
The Table section, meanwhile, holds birch-bark porcelain vases ($65-75) in varying shapes and sizes, as well as unique handmade grain plates (set of four, $120), by artist Dana Brandwein Oates. The latter cleverly incorporate the textures of wheat and spelt (courtesy of the nearby Lakeview Organic Farm) into pressed porcelain. A full set arrived beautifully nestled inside a handmade slide-top pine and birch box. Even the story behind this minimalist crate is inspiring; each one is handcrafted by the Nezinscot Guild of Turner Village, Maine, a small company that employs people with conditions such as autism.
On to the Kitchen section, where there are hand-cut and sewn linen guest towels ($32) complete with easy care instructions – a miracle! – and The Kitchen Sink Collection ($42), a sweet canvas tote featuring bottles of red-currant hand lotion and lemon-thyme dish soap. Both make perfect hostess gifts, if you can bear to part with them.
Just Back From: Dominican Republic
Just back from: Casa Colonial, Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic.
Was it your first time? Yes.
How long were you there? Six days.
Why did you go? We wanted to try something different in the Caribbean that had multiple flights daily and easy access from New York and Florida. We also wanted something for just six days, as opposed to the typical ten-day mandatory stay at holiday time. Casa Colonial was completely flexible about our length of stay.
Who were you with? My family (husband and two kids) and my parents.
What was the best tip you got before you left? My dental hygienist warned me not to go off-campus in this part of the DR. Sage advice. While not dangerous, it also wasn't too atmospheric outside of the hotel grounds.
What's the #1 tip you'd give a friend who wanted to go? Don't go off-campus, but do make a trip to the massive supermercado to score everything from snacks to Zithromax on aisle 1. The whole experience is just crazy and worth the trip. Note: You have to bring ID to buy anything with credit or debit cards. They check.
What did you do? We ate every meal outside and, in between, lounged on minimalist, tasteful loungers at the second-floor pool overlooking the ocean. This was interpersed with golf, tennis, a snorkeling trip, visits to the gym (the treadmills had CNN on loop), lots of reading, card playing, and just generally catching up with one another. Really interesting clientele at Casa Colonial — largely gay, a few older kids, and nary a person from the New York tri-state area. All in, refreshingly low-key.
Were you there for the right amount of time? Possibly a day too long. We tend to max out at five days of strong sun, but it was a great break nonetheless.
This was especially great: The service at the hotel. Everyone — from the waiters to the housekeepers to the concierge — tries really, really hard to please. Beds are made first thing in the morning; everyone smiles. Sometimes they misfire, but I'm all about an A for effort. Casa Colonial wants to keep customers happy, and the staff was terrific with my 9- and 10-year-old and worked with them on their Spanish words.
But this wasn't: Local vendors practically accost you on the beach selling everything from booze to jewelry to hair-braiding services.
Speed round of favorites:
Meal: Grilled local lobster tail in the main restaurant, Lucia.
Neighborhood to explore: N/a. Don't do it.
Thing you did: That supermarket comes pretty close. Weird, plentiful, serious local color.
Casual hangout: Lunch by the pool. Just six shaded tables with the best chopped salad I've had since the Ivy in LA.
Kodak moment: My kids on Christmas morning, opening their stockings.
One place you didn't get to visit, but wanted to: The fruit market. A massive outdoor labrynth/bazaar of fruit and vegetables. That and Ocean World, a massive, tacky water park that I'm sure my kids would've loved.
What did you bring back? Zithromax. And keychains for my kids.
Would you go back? Probably not as we like to mix it up and try new things. But Casa Colonial is an easy long weekend trip from New York City, so maybe sans kids sometime.
Any surprises? Lots of them. I had no idea about the geography/topography of the island. The sugar cane plantations were interesting to see, and I was especially struck by how massive and densely populated the island is. I was surprised that I didn't want to explore more — I usually love to shop and get out a bit — but this trip I was fine with relaxing and planting myself by the pool (this is actually unheard of for me). Lastly, I was surprised by the friendliness of the staff who kept drinks filled, printed our boarding passes, and didn't tell on me when I let my kids come into the tiny gym with me (generally taboo).
You can't stop thinking about: That chopped salad with the fried onion rings on top. Delicious! And just eating three meals a day as a family and really talking. This so rarely happens at home.
FIND IT
Casa Colonial Beach and Spa
Playa Dorada
Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic
+1-809-320-3232