DOLOMITES in DEMAND

With the Milan-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics right around the corner, the the time to plan your trip is now.

By Christina Ohly Evans

On the heels of the successful Paris Olympics, plans for the next Winter Games are well underway. These will be held primarily in and around the dramatic Dolomite mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage– designated range named for the pale dolomite rock that forms striking, craggy peaks and some of the best ski terrain on the planet. Whether you’re there for the quaint, historically rich Sudtirol towns, with their convivial public squares and chic après-ski scenes, or you’re a serious alpinist in search of epic hikes and backcountry wilderness, there is some- thing for every taste and fitness level. Best of all, this northeastern region of Italy has retained the the wonderful parts of Italy (aperi- tivo is religion here and wood-fired pizzas are ubiquitous) with touches of nearby Austria including handmade lederhosen and hearty cuisine (ricotta-laden gnocchi alla cadorina and hyperlocal gewürztraminer wine) that are fuel for days spent outdoors.

Regardless of the time of year—from brilliant green, wildflower- strewn summers to the pristine winters that are reminiscent of fairy tales—the Dolomites are unique among mountain destinations. The landscape is forever changing; with the light and the weather; from one valley to the next; and from rifugio to rifugio (the system of mountain huts that served as critical lodging during World War I and now house and feed hikers, skiers and appreciative tourists in the the most stunning, high-altitude settings).

To take advantage of all that the region has to offer, enlist an on-the-ground operator (Scott Dunn offers great local knowledge and has access to excellent area guides for skiing, hiking, biking and camping) to craft an itinerary that is relax- ing, breathtakingly scenic and often exhilarating. There is no right way to do the Dolomites, but this sample itinerary is a great way to start exploring.

MILAN TO LAKE GARDA

A visit to northern Italy’s lake district—Lake Como, Lake Garda and Lake Maggiore, in particular—can be a great way to beat jet lag after arrival in Milan. Just two hours away by car, the emerald- green waters of Lake Garda beckon with a stay at the Grand Hotel Fasano, the former hunting lodge of the Austrian royal family, providing a perfectly regal reset. A night in one of the opulent, lake-facing suites and an aperitivo on the terrace followed by a Michelin-starred meal at Il Fagiano, and you’ll be ready to scale the Dolomites on Day 2. ghf.it

Minimalists should opt for the new Cape of Senses, a design- led, serene spa resort on the opposite shore that offers stunning sunsets and a sleek infinity pool that juts out over the lake. Suites feature natural materials—wood, stone, neutral linens—while comprehensive fitness and treatment menus add to the relaxing ethos. capeofsenses.com

GATEWAY TO THE DOLOMITES

Surrounded by vineyards and fruit orchards, the small city of Bolzano is a relatively undiscovered gem. Here you’ll find medieval streets and arcades and the not-to-be-missed South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, home to the remains of Ötzi, a man killed in the Alps about 5,300 years ago whose well-preserved body was discov- ered encased in ice in 1991 (be sure to book tickets in advance). Check in at the stunning Castel Hörtenberg, a 16th-century castle hidden behind gates on a tree-lined street that combines original elements, including imposing towers and lush gardens, with sleek Italian design. Original frescoes have been meticulously restored in the light-filled guest rooms and a soothing color palette of linen and beige recalls the style of Axel Vervoordt. Multiple dining spaces offer everything from a breakfast buffet to a South Tyrolean meal in a former wine cave. In summer, a sleek pool provides a respite from the heat, while the design-led spa specializes in sauna/ cold plunge combinations. castel-hoertenberg.com

ON TO ALTA BADIA
Start any ski adventure with a stay at the uber-charming Aman Rosa Alpina in the town of San Cassiano, with its onion-shaped belltower. Run by the third generation of the Pizzinini family and soon to be reopened with Aman Hotels & Resorts, this original hotel exudes traditional chalet warmth. The ski slopes of Alta Badia—some 80 miles of them—are within walking distance of the hotel and are equally popular in summer for hiking and climbing. Of special note here is the three Michelin-starred St. Hubertus, which is refined but never fussy. Helmed by chef Norbert Niederkofler, whose philosophy is “cook the mountain,” the restau- rant serves dishes infused with local ingredients in a serene, wel- coming space. The casual Wine Bar & Grill is the spot for pizzas and beer after a day on the slopes. aman.com

The Sky Pool Deluxe suite at Cape of Senses

VERY VAL GARDENA
From a luxurious base at the atmospheric Gardena Grödnerhof Hotel & Spa in the town of Ortisei, you can explore the alpine meadows of the magnificent Alpe di Siusi in summer, followed by lunch at the buzzing Sanon Hut, an authentic, on-mountain res- taurant where beef goulash and speck dumplings are the orders of the day (arrival by horse-drawn sleigh is another atmospheric option). Start any day here at the hotel’s enormous breakfast buffet full of fennel-infused breads, jams, cured meats, yogurt and eggs made to order, and either head for the mountains or explore nearby towns including Santa Cristina. The Grödnerhof offers a warm, familial atmosphere (larger suites with kitchens cater to groups)— no concierge request is too great, and bikes, dining reservations and extreme adventures can all be arranged. After days spent on- mountain, book in for restorative spa time: state-of-the-art ZeroBody Cryo therapies promise to soothe sore muscles, while massages incorporate aromatic Alpine herbs. Swimming, saunas and plunges and simply lounging in the chalet’s garden are equally beneficial. After all of this wellness, savor a gourmet extravaganza at the pine-paneled Anna Stuben, where cozy tables in rooms adorned with antlers and traditional Ladin stoves set the stage for multicourse Michelin-starred meals. gardena.it

CORVARA IS CALLING
Another great base is Corvara in Badia, where the Hotel La Perla offers a full-on chalet-style experience courtesy of the Costa fam- ily. Dirndl-clad staff—many of whom speak the Ladin language— serve Tyrolean cuisine in the charming Les Stües and La Stüa de Michil (half board is standard). In winter, you can ski straight from the hotel onto some of the most idyllic pistes in Europe, fol- lowed by a Turkish bath and sauna in the well-appointed spa. laperlacorvara.it

Alta Badia provides access to the ski runs around the Sella Massif, which makes it the perfect starting point for some of the most beautiful ski tours in the Alps, including the Sellaronda, the Great War Tour and the route to the Marmolada Glacier. The Sellaronda is perfect for intermediate skiers because of its wide breadth of lifts and terrain. The beauty here is that everything is connected: four Dolomite passes and five Ladin valleys (Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Val di Fassa, Cortina d’Ampezzo and Livinallongo) all meet. Staying in one of the slopeside rifugios in Val Gardena is a truly magical, old-world experience. In summer, opt for a hike on the Seceda plateau followed by lunch at Rifugio Firenze with views of the Sella Massif and the Puez-Geisler Nature Park. The free-roaming cows with their atmospheric bells add to the overall Tyrolean vibe.

A SKIING SAFARI

For anyone who really loves to ski—and doesn’t mind missing the après scene at the end of the day—a five-day ski safari offers the chance to ski from hut to hut, staying in family-run rifugios and quaint inns along the way. With 12 interconnected resorts to choose from and more than 745 miles of groomed trails (plus endless off-piste options), a knowledgeable guide and a Superski pass (the Ikon pass is also honored here), a safari is a wonderful way to experi- ence the mix of Italian, Austrian and Ladin cultures that meet in these mountains. There is something for every skill level; this isn’t heli-skiing, so even novice skiers can find suitable terrain, while guides can ensure that experts are challenged. dolomitemountains.com

Because these are luxury safaris, belongings are transferred from one place to the next each day. Trips typically end in Cortina d’Ampezzo, a chic town that played host to the Olympic Games once before, in 1956, as well as international competitions for skiing, snowboarding, curling and snow polo.

Zac Posen: ‘My style signifier is my smile’

The creative director of Gap Inc loves Deeda Blair, comfortable cinemas and his miniature poodles, Tsuki and Bizet

My personal style signifier is denim on denim. I wear a mix of the brands I work across: Gap jeans, Old Navy T-shirts and heavy denim shirts from Banana Republic. I always wear my Rolex Daytona, a silver bracelet I got at the iconic Hi Ho Silver in San Francisco and my silver and jet W Hammond engagement ring. I’m also loving my woven leather Timberland boots that look just like Bottega Veneta. But, really, my style signifier is my smile. The last thing I bought and loved was a packet of purple cosmos seeds, as well as other wildflower seeds for planting on our terrace in New York and at my parents’ farm in rural Pennsylvania. I have a collection of different heirloom seeds — 13 varieties of tomatoes, chervil, spinach, bok choy, lemongrass — that I repropagate every year with my mom. She even has Corsican seeds from a famous artist’s garden that she’s been growing for more than 30 years.

The places that mean a lot to me are in nature, my parents’ vegetable garden in particular. I also love William Poll, the gourmet-sandwich and prepared-foods shop on the Upper East Side. It symbolises both heritage and innovation: my go-to order is a roast beef sandwich with a watercress spread. The restaurant Omen Azen in SoHo is also very special because I’ve celebrated so many milestone moments there over the years — birthdays, post-fittings, new collections. In a city where restaurants come and go, this place has stood the test of time.

I’m too busy for podcasts. I have, however, caught up on every movie on every airline during my 48 trips from New York to San Francisco to visit the Gap headquarters this past year and a half. I’ve recently rediscovered all the Star Wars spin-offs on Disney+ — right now I’m deep into Andor and The Book of Boba Fett — but also the originals The Empire Strikes Back and Return of the Jedi. I’m a child of the ’80s, and these movies and live-action series provide a comforting escape. American style is all about confidence and effortlessness. Nothing embodies this as much as a pair of jeans: they are utilitarian, elegant and made out of agriculture — really just indigo and cotton. My first memory of Gap is the store on Sixth Avenue quite near West 4th Street. I was in middle school and went shopping there for the little pocket T-shirts that I wore for my school photos.

My style icons are both understated and deeply extravagant. At one end of the spectrum is Deeda Blair, who is so elegant and timeless. At the other end I like A$AP Rocky for the way he wears both clothing and jewellery. He wore the most magnificent diamond brooch and necklace at this year’s Met Gala to celebrate the exhibition “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”. We’re living in an incredible time for men’s style because it has become a canvas for expression in terms of shape, risk and identity. Men are dressing up again — mixing tailoring with streetwear, embracing style with intention. The codes of gender and the banal, nondescript uniform have fallen away. There is a freedom and a sense of individuality now.

The best gift I’ve given recently was an entire new wardrobe for my partner, Harrison Ball. I was on a trip to Tokyo and I bought him some beautiful indigo pieces from brands including Hollywood Ranch Market, Blue Blue and Hysteric Glamour, a ’90s rock-inflected brand that is so imaginative. I also gave my mom the navy Gap shirtdress with polka dots — aka the “Anne Hathaway dress” — from my first collection for Gap, which made me very happy.  And the best gift I’ve received is an enormous bouquet of yellow and orange tulips from my florist, Zeze. They were cut from his own garden and the blossoms were the size of teacups. We’re talking Victor Fleming Munchkinland size. 

The last music I downloaded was Chan Marshall’s Cat Power Sings Dylan: The 1966 Royal Albert Hall Concert, a live recreation of Bob Dylan’s 1966 concert at the Manchester Free Trade Hall — mistakenly attributed to the Royal Albert Hall — that includes such classics as “Mr Tambourine Man” and “Like a Rolling Stone”. I also download a lot of the music that Harrison listens to for his work as a choreographer, including New Ancient Strings by Malian musicians Toumani Diabaté and Ballaké Sissoko, which is almost hypnotic.

The best way to spend $20 is to go to the movies by yourself, preferably one with comfortable seats. The Film Forum in Greenwich Village is always nostalgic, as is the Angelika Film Center for indie and foreign films. The Film Forum has a great Summer Double Feature series with pairings like The Big Lebowski and The Last Picture Show, and Open City with Voyage to Italy. I’m hoping to see one of these. In my fridge you’ll find everything: apple cider vinegar, eggs, clementines, apples, yoghurt, chicken stock, leeks, thyme, bay leaves, nuts, dashi, nori and sea moss. I’m a real cook, and live on soups made in a Breville pressure cooker.

I do not believe in life after death, but I do believe in a creative spirit taking other forms. This is a bigger conversation about the definition of life in the time of AI and supercomputers.  I couldn’t do without my miniature poodles, Tsuki and Bizet, who travel with me from coast to coast and have a very good life. I’m also very attached to my Gingher Left-hand Knife-edge Dressmaker Shears, as well as my dress form and mannequin.

I am a lotions-and-potions person and have a mixed skincare regime that includes SkinCeuticals’ toner and an Orveda serum and face cream. I also like the body oil from my friend’s company, Monastery Made, and the Meder Masks I get from Knockout Beauty; they are incredibly moisturising. Meder Beauty Science Hydra-Fill Mask, $115 for a pack of five, knockoutbeauty.com. Monastery Made Lapiz body oil, $59. Orveda Vital Sap, £165, and Firm Brew Botanical Cream, £350. SkinCeuticals Equalizing Toner, £46 The works that changed everything for me were the clothes of Issey Miyake, Azzedine Alaïa and Yohji Yamamoto that I saw at Charivari Workshop as a kid growing up in SoHo. I later interned at The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art and saw the works of Madeleine Vionnet and Cristóbal Balenciaga — especially his gowns in taffeta — that totally changed my life.

My grooming gurus include Thom Priano, who cuts my hair on the East Coast, and Dennis Gots, who cuts it on the West. I get regular facials at Monastery in San Francisco and with Ludmila at Knockout Beauty in New York. I also take a lot of vitamins: black seed oil to reduce inflammation, CoQ10 for heart health, and NACs, which support the immune system. 

In another life, I would have been a film or theatre director — anything that involves storytelling and costumes. I’ve done some of this in the past: with the costumes for Christopher Wheeldon’s Within the Golden Hour for the San Francisco Ballet, for the Broadway production Lady in the Dark and for Graham Moore’s film The Outfit. I love the research, character development and artistic collaboration. Never say never.

The best bit of advice I ever received was something that Stephen Sondheim said: “Opportunity is not a lengthy visitor.” Take advantage of things presented to you. 

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Euro STARS

BY CHRISTINA OHLY EVANS

For those interested in a summer holiday in Europe, the time to start planning is right now. With a strong U.S. dollar, increased flight capacity and added routes to smaller cities, the appetite for adventures abroad shows no signs of waning. Here are just a few of the recently—or soon to be—opened hotels across the Continent and in the U.K. From a chic French chateau to a design-led, historic project by British architect Sir David Chipperfield in central London, travelers are spoiled for stylish choice this spring.

FRANCE

HÔTEL BALZAC

Just off the Champs-Élysées in the 8th arrondissement, this 58-room hotel is a chic haven offering Eiffel Tower views and open-air terraces. With a recent re-do by Festen Architecture, the glass-roofed lobby lounge invites guests to linger, while the Japanese-inspired Spa Ikoi is a unique offering in the city’s well- ness space. Of special note is one of Paris’ chicest hotel bars (don’t miss the elevated take on a lobster roll) where travelers and locals alike meet for aperitifs. hotelbalzac.paris

CHÂTEAU DE FIAC

The lesser-known Occitania region in the South of France is now home to Château de Fiac, a 19th-century castle-cum-boutique hotel. Just 30 miles from Toulouse, the property’s 16 rooms and suites have been designed by Alexis Dupont and incorporate both historical and modern elements— with each enjoying expansive views of the surrounding lush gardens. A state-of-the- art Revivo spa (the first one for The Pavilions Hotels & Resorts brand in Europe) inspired by the original Balinese outpost is focused on the power of the ocean, from marine peels and spirulina- boosted facials to an Icelandic plunge pool, swimming pool and a hammam. Signature Retreats are also offered (a three-night minimum) to destress, detox and focus on nutrition and yoga technique. chateaudefiac.com