DOLOMITES in DEMAND
With the Milan-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics right around the corner, the the time to plan your trip is now.
By Christina Ohly Evans
On the heels of the successful Paris Olympics, plans for the next Winter Games are well underway. These will be held primarily in and around the dramatic Dolomite mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage– designated range named for the pale dolomite rock that forms striking, craggy peaks and some of the best ski terrain on the planet. Whether you’re there for the quaint, historically rich Sudtirol towns, with their convivial public squares and chic après-ski scenes, or you’re a serious alpinist in search of epic hikes and backcountry wilderness, there is some- thing for every taste and fitness level. Best of all, this northeastern region of Italy has retained the the wonderful parts of Italy (aperi- tivo is religion here and wood-fired pizzas are ubiquitous) with touches of nearby Austria including handmade lederhosen and hearty cuisine (ricotta-laden gnocchi alla cadorina and hyperlocal gewürztraminer wine) that are fuel for days spent outdoors.
Regardless of the time of year—from brilliant green, wildflower- strewn summers to the pristine winters that are reminiscent of fairy tales—the Dolomites are unique among mountain destinations. The landscape is forever changing; with the light and the weather; from one valley to the next; and from rifugio to rifugio (the system of mountain huts that served as critical lodging during World War I and now house and feed hikers, skiers and appreciative tourists in the the most stunning, high-altitude settings).
To take advantage of all that the region has to offer, enlist an on-the-ground operator (Scott Dunn offers great local knowledge and has access to excellent area guides for skiing, hiking, biking and camping) to craft an itinerary that is relax- ing, breathtakingly scenic and often exhilarating. There is no right way to do the Dolomites, but this sample itinerary is a great way to start exploring.
MILAN TO LAKE GARDA
A visit to northern Italy’s lake district—Lake Como, Lake Garda and Lake Maggiore, in particular—can be a great way to beat jet lag after arrival in Milan. Just two hours away by car, the emerald- green waters of Lake Garda beckon with a stay at the Grand Hotel Fasano, the former hunting lodge of the Austrian royal family, providing a perfectly regal reset. A night in one of the opulent, lake-facing suites and an aperitivo on the terrace followed by a Michelin-starred meal at Il Fagiano, and you’ll be ready to scale the Dolomites on Day 2. ghf.it
Minimalists should opt for the new Cape of Senses, a design- led, serene spa resort on the opposite shore that offers stunning sunsets and a sleek infinity pool that juts out over the lake. Suites feature natural materials—wood, stone, neutral linens—while comprehensive fitness and treatment menus add to the relaxing ethos. capeofsenses.com
GATEWAY TO THE DOLOMITES
Surrounded by vineyards and fruit orchards, the small city of Bolzano is a relatively undiscovered gem. Here you’ll find medieval streets and arcades and the not-to-be-missed South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, home to the remains of Ötzi, a man killed in the Alps about 5,300 years ago whose well-preserved body was discov- ered encased in ice in 1991 (be sure to book tickets in advance). Check in at the stunning Castel Hörtenberg, a 16th-century castle hidden behind gates on a tree-lined street that combines original elements, including imposing towers and lush gardens, with sleek Italian design. Original frescoes have been meticulously restored in the light-filled guest rooms and a soothing color palette of linen and beige recalls the style of Axel Vervoordt. Multiple dining spaces offer everything from a breakfast buffet to a South Tyrolean meal in a former wine cave. In summer, a sleek pool provides a respite from the heat, while the design-led spa specializes in sauna/ cold plunge combinations. castel-hoertenberg.com
ON TO ALTA BADIA
Start any ski adventure with a stay at the uber-charming Aman Rosa Alpina in the town of San Cassiano, with its onion-shaped belltower. Run by the third generation of the Pizzinini family and soon to be reopened with Aman Hotels & Resorts, this original hotel exudes traditional chalet warmth. The ski slopes of Alta Badia—some 80 miles of them—are within walking distance of the hotel and are equally popular in summer for hiking and climbing. Of special note here is the three Michelin-starred St. Hubertus, which is refined but never fussy. Helmed by chef Norbert Niederkofler, whose philosophy is “cook the mountain,” the restau- rant serves dishes infused with local ingredients in a serene, wel- coming space. The casual Wine Bar & Grill is the spot for pizzas and beer after a day on the slopes. aman.com
The Sky Pool Deluxe suite at Cape of Senses
VERY VAL GARDENA
From a luxurious base at the atmospheric Gardena Grödnerhof Hotel & Spa in the town of Ortisei, you can explore the alpine meadows of the magnificent Alpe di Siusi in summer, followed by lunch at the buzzing Sanon Hut, an authentic, on-mountain res- taurant where beef goulash and speck dumplings are the orders of the day (arrival by horse-drawn sleigh is another atmospheric option). Start any day here at the hotel’s enormous breakfast buffet full of fennel-infused breads, jams, cured meats, yogurt and eggs made to order, and either head for the mountains or explore nearby towns including Santa Cristina. The Grödnerhof offers a warm, familial atmosphere (larger suites with kitchens cater to groups)— no concierge request is too great, and bikes, dining reservations and extreme adventures can all be arranged. After days spent on- mountain, book in for restorative spa time: state-of-the-art ZeroBody Cryo therapies promise to soothe sore muscles, while massages incorporate aromatic Alpine herbs. Swimming, saunas and plunges and simply lounging in the chalet’s garden are equally beneficial. After all of this wellness, savor a gourmet extravaganza at the pine-paneled Anna Stuben, where cozy tables in rooms adorned with antlers and traditional Ladin stoves set the stage for multicourse Michelin-starred meals. gardena.it
CORVARA IS CALLING
Another great base is Corvara in Badia, where the Hotel La Perla offers a full-on chalet-style experience courtesy of the Costa fam- ily. Dirndl-clad staff—many of whom speak the Ladin language— serve Tyrolean cuisine in the charming Les Stües and La Stüa de Michil (half board is standard). In winter, you can ski straight from the hotel onto some of the most idyllic pistes in Europe, fol- lowed by a Turkish bath and sauna in the well-appointed spa. laperlacorvara.it
Alta Badia provides access to the ski runs around the Sella Massif, which makes it the perfect starting point for some of the most beautiful ski tours in the Alps, including the Sellaronda, the Great War Tour and the route to the Marmolada Glacier. The Sellaronda is perfect for intermediate skiers because of its wide breadth of lifts and terrain. The beauty here is that everything is connected: four Dolomite passes and five Ladin valleys (Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Val di Fassa, Cortina d’Ampezzo and Livinallongo) all meet. Staying in one of the slopeside rifugios in Val Gardena is a truly magical, old-world experience. In summer, opt for a hike on the Seceda plateau followed by lunch at Rifugio Firenze with views of the Sella Massif and the Puez-Geisler Nature Park. The free-roaming cows with their atmospheric bells add to the overall Tyrolean vibe.
A SKIING SAFARI
For anyone who really loves to ski—and doesn’t mind missing the après scene at the end of the day—a five-day ski safari offers the chance to ski from hut to hut, staying in family-run rifugios and quaint inns along the way. With 12 interconnected resorts to choose from and more than 745 miles of groomed trails (plus endless off-piste options), a knowledgeable guide and a Superski pass (the Ikon pass is also honored here), a safari is a wonderful way to experi- ence the mix of Italian, Austrian and Ladin cultures that meet in these mountains. There is something for every skill level; this isn’t heli-skiing, so even novice skiers can find suitable terrain, while guides can ensure that experts are challenged. dolomitemountains.com
Because these are luxury safaris, belongings are transferred from one place to the next each day. Trips typically end in Cortina d’Ampezzo, a chic town that played host to the Olympic Games once before, in 1956, as well as international competitions for skiing, snowboarding, curling and snow polo.