Laid-back lunch in Connecticut from a Noma alumnus

Laid-back lunch in Connecticut from a Noma alumnus

When I think of Kent, Connecticut, images of rolling hills, prep schools and antique shops dotted across quaint villages all come to mind. Less often associated with the area are design-led restaurants with Noma-level cuisine and service – but that’s exactly what I found at Swyft on a recent trip to Litchfield County, two hours north of New York City.

Swyft opened at the end of last year in an 18th century Connecticut house

The restaurant opened at the end of last year in an 18th-century house and combines original immense stone fireplaces and post-and-beam construction with simple furnishings, lighting and greenery courtesy of an all-star team with design credits that include work at Claridge’s, The Carlyle and Calvin Klein Home.

The kitchen is helmed by chef Joel Viehland, a local celebrity who has cooked at Noma and Gramercy Tavern, as well as at the award-winning Community Table in nearby Washington. What I loved about Swyft from the outset was the casual atmosphere; a dove-grey exterior set the stage for a meal that was low-key and delicious. We all – with ages ranging from 15 to 75 years – fell for what the chef calls his “elevated average Joe” menu, with offerings such as agrodolce-topped burgers with beef-tallow fries and blistered, sourdough margherita pizzas with mozzarella and burrata (the cheese is made in the kitchens).

Swyft chef Joel Viehland

Swyft – named for the family that originally built the house – is an enticing place for a laid-back lunch regardless of the season, but it was particularly cosy on a recent cold spring day. Standout dishes included a proper Cubano sandwich with slow-cooked pork shoulder and Gruyère, and Caldo Verde – a Portuguese potato and kale soup with Linguiça sausage. Grain salads with zingy za’atar dressing, an elegant take on the old-school BLT and a simple-yet-spicy Cacio e Pepe pasta rounded out the menu.

Pickled mussel toast with saffron aioli and bread baked in Swyft's wood oven

But it was those fantastic sourdough pizzas that were our clear favourites, made using a 30-year-old starter, and a Pavesi wood-fired oven from Naples. The Rhode Island – a white version with clams and pancetta – and the Rosso with stracciatella, garlic and oregano were both crispy perfection. And the oven might be imported, but the fresh produce is local and discernible – many of the toppings used come from nearby Rock Cobble Farm.

Later this summer, Viehland will open Ore Hill next door. This fine dining restaurant will offer tasting menus that he hopes will push boundaries in terms of ingredients and flavour combinations, without adding pretention. I, for one, can’t wait to return to Swyft for the La Pienza pizza with wild boar sausage, porcini and roasted peppers, never mind whatever multicourse masterpiece Viehland cooks up at his next venture.

Serious sourdough aficionados’ chosen bakery

Tartine Manufactory’s 100-seat restaurant and bakery is worth the queue

Though sourdough may now be considered almost a given on the menu of any dining establishment worth its starter, serious dough aficionados will know that the mecca for modern artisanal sourdough is Tartine, a San Franciscan bakery founded in 2002 by husband-and-wife partners Liz Prueitt and Chad Robertson. It enjoys a global clientele, including Michelin-starred chefs who come to apprentice in its sprawling kitchens.

Tartine Manufactory, housed in a converted laundry factory, is a 100-seat bakery, restaurant and wine bar

I really didn’t think the whole, now much-copied experience – its famous crusty baguettes, molten chocolate chip cookies and tart blood orange jam – could be improved upon, but they’ve done it with Tartine Manufactory, a 100-seat bakery, restaurant and wine bar. In a converted laundry factory, this Mission District gem opened in 2016 and draws local techies and curious epicures, all of whom happily queue (and there will be a queue) for the array of sweet and savoury delights on offer.

In addition to the wonderful smell from the bakery that greeted me on a recent visit to the space, there is also a convivial buzz as the bakers tend to the huge ovens with long wooden paddles, churning out country sourdough and wholewheat sesame loaves, as well as assorted olive fougasse and oat porridge breads. Dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows let that magical California light stream in, and the overall effect is one of a bustling hive.

A loaf of freshly baked sourdough bread

I arrived for lunch on a busy weekday with three gourmand friends who know the restaurant well, and between us we managed to try just about one of everything on the delicious menu. There are Scandinavian, Japanese, French, Italian and Middle Eastern influences – think smørrebrød and burrata with Meyer lemon and pistachio ($10) – as well as Northern California nods to both local produce and the prevailing preference for vegan cuisine.  

Pain au chocolat, $5

I over-ordered – it all looked so tantalising. A starter of chewy sourdough bread ($5) with creamy butter for the table was a no-brainer and deeply satisfying. They serve beer, wine and coffee all day but we opted for non-alcoholic “Shrub” spritzes ($7), made with essences of strawberry and plum.

The Mission District gem has become a firm favourite of local techies and curious epicures

Each dish that followed seemed better than the last – a flavourful California halibut crudo ($17) with kiwi, leek, puffed rice, mint and coriander; and a little gem salad ($15) sprinkled with carrots, pickled rhubarb, herb ricotta and a splash of Meyer lemon. The hits just kept coming: coddled eggs ($16) with sea trout roe, fresh horseradish and zesty Za’atar toast; gooey grilled cheese ($14) made with Fontina and roasted squash on country bread. Everything is served atop minimalist but earthy bowls and plates by Heath Ceramics in subtle shades of sand and cocoa that just add to the overall sense of aesthetic perfection.

After so many shared dishes, I was sated and opted for dessert to go. Orange sesame teacakes, brioche and jam buns, pecan tarts, and chocolatey swirled breads all beckoned, but ultimately it was the fresh ginger and buckwheat cookies ($4.50) filled with fior di latte that won me over. The ice cream at the in-house Cookies and Cream parlour comes in tempting flavours and the PB&J pie (made with Concord grape sorbet mixed with ice cream, grape pâte de fruit, candied peanuts and peanut cookie shell) is already legendary, so I’ve vowed to return next summer for a meal comprised entirely of these decadent frozen delicacies.

Solakzade: a subterranean temple of vintage spectacles and sunglasses

From 200-year-old gold frames to 1940s Ray-Bans and new creations encrusted with jewels, this Tokyo emporium is a must for lovers of extraordinary eyewear

In the basement of Tokyo’s iconic Goro’s Building (the orange townhouse in Harajuku where shoppers queue for hours to buy Goro Takahashi’s silver feather jewellery) is Solakzade, a subterranean mini-temple of vintagespectacles and sunglasses. There is little street signage and no window display to signal what lies within, but in-the-know visitors will find an eclectic and ever-changing inventory of classic and cutting-edge styles – all in mint condition.

1990s Jean-Paul Gaultier eyewear, about £400 | Image: Jeremie Souteyrat

Launched in this space in 2012 by brothers Ryo and Tatsuya Okamoto, Solakzade counts Kanye West and Kate Moss among its stylish clientele. “Our customers tend to be vintage lovers who might fall for rare, perfectly restored frames from the 1820s made of coin silver or solid gold [£400-£2,285] yet still look fresh and cool,” says Tatsuya. A journey through the 20th century could uncover original 1940s Ray-Ban aviators (from £320); 1960s Christian Diorsunglasses (from £330) featuring butterflies and the Eiffel Tower; and 1990s Jean-Paul Gaultier designs (about £400) with rose-tinted lenses.

The intimate space’s Italian 1970s chandeliers and antique mirrors cast a dusky glow over glass vitrines showcasing punky finds from cult avant-garde Japanese brand Matsuda (from about £300), alongside oversized futuristic styles from the 1960s by Philippe Chevalier (from £800), the under-the-radar designer of Lanvin’s eyewear line, and Pierre Cardin (from £330). There’s a vintage American Optical picture on the wall, while original Piaget and Cartier boutique display items – “we love vintage everything…” – adorn the marble countertops. And for very special customers a secret mirrored door leads to an equally enveloping VIP room.

Platinum-plated aviators (from £760) by Cartier – “best known for its fine jewellery but also one of the greatest brands in eyewear history,” says Tatsuya – sit comfortably beside Solakzade’s small selection of antique gold jewellery, displayed in drawers. Here the focus is on signet rings (19th-century English lapis ring, £2,500) and French tank rings (second world war-era gold and natural-cut diamond ring, price on request), but equally seductive are the bracelets, including a 1940s French gold tank bracelet, £4,600.

While Tatsuya handles buying trips across the globe, it’s Ryo who specialises in restoration, customisation and the brand’s bespoke eyewear. His limited edition and one-off creations include 18ct gold frames (made to order, from £5,000) embellished with Nepalese and Indian emeralds, sapphires and diamonds. Solakzade also handles everything from eye tests and prescription lenses to frame adjustments in its adjacent atelier, where the brothers delight in spending time with each customer – often 30 minutes or more – discussing what they call “cosmetic perspective”. “We like to think of our glasses as wearable works of art, and there is something to suit every face shape and skin tone,” says Tatsuya. “Those bold black Mad Men styles, for example, are simply too overpowering for some.” None of the frames are flea-market finds. “Making glasses is a beautiful craft and the condition of every pair is crucial. It’s what sets us apart.”

The plaster maker of the moment: Stephen Antonson

Extremely chic, bespoke lighting and furniture crafted from a super-simple material

With a roster of discerning private clients and designers that includes Daniel Romualdez, Robert Couturier, Michael Smith and David Collins Studio, the bespoke work of Brooklyn-based plaster artist Stephen Antonson is much in demand. A specialist in lighting and furniture created using handpainted layers of chalky-white, matte plaster, Antonson is noted for his bold use of this simple material – favoured by Jean-Michel Frank, Serge Roche and Giacometti, and recognised for its subtle textural properties and resilience.

Macklin centre table, 42in x 29in, from the Shackleton collection

“People don’t necessarily think of plaster as a functional material, but we make tables ($3,000-$90,000) in all sorts of finishes that can be used as dining surfaces or for work purposes,” says Antonson of his sculptural, sometimes almost surreal, pieces. Each is created with a steel or wood base that is then layered with plaster much as a painter applies oil to a canvas, before being painted, sanded and finished with paint.

The sculptural James pendant light adds minimalist texture to the living room of a Soho penthouse | Image: Stephen Kent Johnson

A cheeky, historic-inspired bust takes centre stage in Antonson’s Brooklyn studio | Image: Matt Carr

But it is Antonson’s light fixtures that clients are currently clamouring for; whether chandeliers, such as the 4m model with 18 lights made for a Hamptons home, or the geometric Morandi sconces ($4,200) and table lamps (from $3,500). Each of Antonson’s larger chandeliers (from $10,000) takes 12 weeks to produce, while smaller commissions can take just a few weeks. The latest additions to Antonson’s range are torchières ($6,500) that stand 2m tall and cast a gentle glow.

“The possibilities with plaster are almost limitless,” says Antonson – he has created entire rooms from the material, such as an entryway for designer David Mann that included walls, shelving, a mirror and ceiling covered in seashells. He has fun with smaller objects (from $600) such as Zig Zag candlesticks, bowls and cheeky faux-historical busts. “There is this misconception that plaster is fragile,” he says, “but it can withstand weight as well as spills, and can be extremely elegant. It may be a humble material, but it’s one that really lets you see the hand of an artisan.”

A long weekend in Los Angeles with Kelly Wearstler

From health-conscious eateries to pioneering galleries and fashion emporia – the city’s glamorous interior designer shares her address book with Christina Ohly Evans.

“The weather is always a draw in LA. Probably because in a world that feels increasingly frenetic and fast-paced, the relaxed, outdoor lifestyle is very accessible – and appealing. The city gets 47.3 million visitors each year; many come to feel the allure of Hollywood, but a lot also come from other creative fields: fashion, music, food. The art world, especially, has really exploded here over the past few years. It’s an easy place for different industries to come together – art and film, for example – and foster exciting ideas and emerging talents. In general, the energy, and the spirit, are very compelling.

The Beverly Hills Hotel exudes old-world glamour

Because you can spend hours in your car getting from one part of town to another, I recommend hotels based not only on style but also location preference – it is really important. For a true classic with elevated service and excellent people-watching, it has to be The Beverly Hills Hotel. It’s so iconic, so full of old-world glamour, from the pink stucco and Martinique banana-leaf wall covering to the fabulous pool and private bungalows. I love the classic striping of the grand entrance; you feel a true sense of arrival at this hotel, and the coming together of past and present. Those in the market for something a little more hip might prefer the Chateau Marmont, with its incredible views of the Hollywood Hills; I find my London friends like the laid-back, bohemian vibe here – it’s the quintessential LA experience, right down to the veggie burgers and huevos rancheros at brunch. Another favourite is the art deco Sunset Tower; it’s a classic, with great views of the city, and the best bar, serving the best Bellini in town. For a slightly more off-the-beaten-track stay, I like Hotel Covell, near Silver Lake, which opened just over two years ago and draws a younger crowd. It has a lived-in, residential feel with super-thoughtful interiors, from the hardwood floors to the salons with a mix of vintage and new pieces. It’s a place with soul.

For the full LA experience, you might want to start in Malibu, where the beautiful El Matador and Zuma Beaches, and the Malibu Country Mart, are excellent places to spend a day. The Sunday Farmers’ Market is worth a special detour; not only is the produce amazing, it’s a total celebrity bottleneck, which just adds to the fun. One of the best spots for lunch up here is Tra Di Noi, where you can sit on the patio and eat super-healthy versions of Italian classics like the excellent zucchini spaghetti with arrabbiata sauce. Another good lunchtime choice is Malibu Farm at Malibu Pier, where you can watch the sunset over a vegan kale salad or a cauliflower crust pizza. If you decide to make a night of it in Malibu, the new Nobu Ryokan, with its teak wood styling and beautiful, simple design that envelops the natural environment, is transporting – instant peace.

The Malibu Farm restaurant is popular for sunset-watching

Heading south along the Pacific Coast Highway you’ll hit Santa Monica, and my favourite neighbourhood: Venice. This is the best place to see the real LA, and the way to do it is on rollerblades, skating past the Santa Monica Pier and Muscle Beach before heading on to Abbot Kinney for all the shops, cafés and great restaurants. The Butcher’s Daughter, where they serve really healthy smoothies, is a can’t-miss. I try to eat as many raw foods as possible, and this place makes it easy. So does Erewhon – a health store with an unbelievable juice bar. My favourite is the peanut butter and banana concoction with added kale – it is much more delicious than it sounds. Venice has a few great shopping finds too. Heist is a favourite for both established and emerging local designers. 

Stylish smaller shops such as The Row can be found in West Hollywood

Working out is a big part of LA life. Walking, biking and just being in nature are all priorities. If you want to go for a great hike, the Inspiration Point trail is a beautiful escape in the Santa Monica Mountains, with views all the way to Catalina island. One of the best ways to get to grips with Beverly Hills is to go for a run here, because the landscaping is so incredible and you miss a lot of it from a car. I recommend heading down Palm Drive and then up to the hills, past Canon, Beverly and Rodeo Drives. This is also an excellent way to scope out the shops before later in the day, when you can lunch at the old-school Fountain Coffee Room at The Beverly Hills Hotel. For excellent Italian food, I send people to Pizzeria il Fico, which has a cool, casual feel and perfect thin-crust pizzas.

Downtown LA’s Bestia serves excellent Italian food

It’s also worth exploring West Hollywood, particularly the Melrose area, where you’ll find great smaller shops: there’s The Row, Chloé and Isabel Marant, but also Brazilian designer Martha Medeiros, who specialises in lace dresses. The eating options here are great too. Ink’s Sack is the place for in-and-out creative sandwiches, and my go-to spot is Urth Caffé for either breakfast or lunch. It’s easygoing, with outside seating, and as the name suggests, everything – from the organic oatmeal to the grilled veggie with pesto sandwiches – is made with the freshest ingredients.

For uniquely LA shopping, there’s an outpost of The Future Perfect, which is actually a store within a midcentury house, near the Hollywood Hills; you’ll find all kinds of interesting furniture, design and decorative objects, complete with a backyard pool. And there is American Rag Cie: it has the best denim collection anywhere, as well as an extensive home store next door with beautiful tabletop items. Scout in West Hollywood is excellent for vintage clothing; I bought an incredible 1980s Valentino blouse with really big shoulder pads here.

One of LA’s smallest and most underrated neighbourhoods is Larchmont, situated at the meeting points of Hollywood, Koreatown and Hancock Park – the latter is considered the “first” Beverly Hills, because of the classic homes built in the 1920s and ’30s. Larchmont is a charming, family-friendly area and the restaurant row is great, especially Le Petit Greek Estiatorio – it’s authentic and delicious. For a more traditional meal, I love La Republique, a modern French bistro set in a historical space built by Charlie Chaplin in 1928. And I always send people to Sqirl, on the edge of Silver Lake, a casual brunch spot with lots of filling salads and vegetarian options.

The art scene has changed so much over the past few years, and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art has led the charge. And its scene keeps growing. The Broad museum, designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, is architecturally beautiful, as is the collection of contemporary art, while LA’s outpost of Hauser & Wirth has incredibly diverse programmes that support young artists. Honor Fraser is another excellent gallery; her “voice”, so to speak, and her style are singular. If you plan it right, you can see art in Downtown LA followed by dinner at Bestia – the most amazing Italian food in town, in an industrial-yet-chic setting. 

What’s unique about LA is the number and variety of experiences you can have in one day – from surfing to visiting world-class museums, to shopping and enjoying a healthy outdoor lifestyle. It’s such an authentic place, and I hope it stays true to itself.”

The World of Wellness at Switzerland's Bürgenstock Hotels & Resort

After a $550 million renovation, the classic Bürgenstock is now a world of wellness and pampering unto itself.

Courtesy Burgenstock Hotel

I was won over on the approach. As I took the boat ride across Lake Lucerne, I could see mountains for miles. I next hopped on a vintage funicular that climbed into the sky, bringing me to one of Switzerland’s most ambitious projects.

I had long heard about Bürgenstock, a mini-village that dates back to the 1870s, a place where Swiss society and boldface names like Audrey Hepburn would vacation in the 1950s. But I had to see it to grasp its sheer size and scope. The sprawling 148-acre property is made up of 30 disparate buildings. Some, including the chapel, are historic structures with that quintessential Alpine charm, while other, newer builds are more contemporary in style. The 102-room Bürgenstock Hotel is one of the newcomers, a modern building with plenty of muted limestone, oak, walnut, and quartz finishes, as well as magnificent floor-to-ceiling views of the water. My standard room featured an enormous sitting area with a brass fireplace, two bathrooms clad in Arana marble, and a sumptuous, lake-facing soaking tub.

This is just one of four hotels on the property. The Palace Hotel, built in 1903 and now impeccably restored, has a world-class art collection. The 12-room Taverne 1879 is an authentic Swiss guesthouse complete with antler-bedecked walls. And the recently opened Waldhotel rivals Lanserhof as one of Europe’s top medical spas, offering everything from nutritional counseling to cryotherapy. There’s also a 45,200-square-foot spa facility with a Finnish sauna and an ice room.

The resort has 12 restaurants, lounges, and bars, and over my four-night stay, I managed to try sashimi and dim sum at the excellent Spices Kitchen & Terrace, mezes at the light-filled Sharq Oriental, and an excellent foie gras terrine at RitzCoffier, the Bürgenstock’s nod to French fine dining.

But ultimately, it’s the great outdoors that beckon here, and the activities are limitless: gentle hikes along the cliff walk up to the Hammetschwand lift (reportedly Europe’s highest outdoor elevator), golf on the nine-hole course, and sailing in summer. Still, I found nothing was more beautiful or restorative than the lush Swiss countryside. Rooms from $650; buergenstock.ch.

Things Fathom Editors Want Right Now - Vol. 16

Tea.O.Graphy Tea

Assam from the northern hills of India, pink rosebuds and chamomile from a Provençal garden, a spicy tea blend inspired by Christmas in New Mexico — these are the cuppas that can transport you to another place any time you step into your kitchen. ($3 for a 3-cup sample; $11 and up for a 2 ounce package) - Jeralyn, editorial director 

Photo courtesy of Phaidon.

The Japanese Garden

Winter in New York City has me longing for greener days, which is why I have my eye on this gorgeous coffee table book. Through a series of essays and photographs, readers explore the art of the Japanese garden. ($43) – Berit, senior editor

Photo courtesy of Slughaus.

Slughaus Self-Healing Wolverine Pack

I have my eyes on this lightweight daypack for when the weather warms up and hiking through the woods without seven layers of clothing becomes an option. It’s packable down to the size of a smartphone, is weather resistant, and — get ready for this — made of regenerative fabric! Heat and friction from your fingertips is all that’s needed to heal small punctures made by branches, bramble, and any other sharp objects one might find on a nature walk. ($89) – Daniel, editor

Photo courtesy of Flight 001.

Flight 001 5-In-1 Adapter

The colorful multi-country travel adapter has been my go-to for staying powered on the road. Before I head to Singapore and Vietnam at the end of the month, I’m going to upgrade to the latest version, which features two built-in USB ports. – Berit, senior editor

Bringing It Home and Dinner in an Instant

It's February and I'm freezing, so I'm staying in, nesting and trying recipes from the latest cookbooks from my friends, both Fathom contributors. Top Chef judge Gail Simmons' Bringing It Home: Favorite Recipes from a Life of Adventurous Eating has me craving Vietnamese Omelets and Charred Grapefruit Mezcalita ($16.98). New York Times food columnist Melissa Clark, who writes a new book in the time it takes me to read 300 emails, inspired me to buy a pricey new gadget with Dinner in an Instant: 75 Modern Recipes for your Pressure Cooker, Multicooker + Instant Pot so I can make Green Persian Rice with Tahdig and Japanese Beef Curry ($13.96). Both authors — hooray! — were just nominated by International Association of Culinary Professionals as finalists for the best cookbook of the 2018. — Pavia, CEO

Flight Spray

Call me crazy, but I swear that the key to health is having moisturized airways. This holds particularly true for airplanes where the humidity levels are significantly lower than the Sahara Desert (fact). In an effort to stave off colds and this year's dreaded flu, I went online and read that this was THE nasal mist to keep flyers breathing right. It has a sort of herbal essence, and since I started using it I'm much more comfortable, especially on long haul flights. — Christina Ohly, Contributing Editor

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A long weekend in Lisbon with Alexandra Champalimaud

The Portuguese-born interior designer divulges the best of her hometown’s timeless charms, architecture and delectable food to Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Pedro Guimaraes

I was born in Lisbon and lived in this magnificent city until my mid-20s, so to me it will always be home. It sits at the edge of the wild Atlantic Ocean, on the scenic Tagus River, and is built across seven hills, so it’s like no other city in the world – because of the extraordinary light, the diverse architectural styles and, most importantly, the people. The Portuguese are truly warm, welcoming and nurturing – playing host is second nature to them. 

Much of Lisbon was built between the 16th and 18th centuries. Portugal was one of the great trading nations and had some of the most prolific navigators, including Vasco da Gama; it imported silks from Asia and India, and exotic wood from Brazil, and also craftsmanship that can be seen in the romantic detailing that graces the romanesque, baroque and manueline [late gothic] churches that are found everywhere.

A Cevicheria in Baixa – a great place for fish | Image: Francisco Rivotti

The city is like a conglomeration of small villages – each one rooted by a church – that contain real architectural charms hidden behind doors, often exquisitely carved. You’ll find buildings with glorious scaled windows reminiscent of the English Georgian period. The cobblestone streets are like labyrinths, and the brightly coloured façades and abundant sunshine add to the historic atmosphere. 

Visitors are spoilt for choice with hotels – they run the gamut from large and lavish to much more intimate. One of my favourites is the Bairro Alto Hotel between atmospheric Bairro Alto and Chiado. It’s full of charm, with incredible views of the Tagus; it’s basically the embodiment of the Portuguese lifestyle. I highly recommend sitting at its Terraço BA bar at sunset – glass of port in hand, of course – before moving on to the excellent Flores do Bairro restaurant downstairs for its roasted octopus and tomato rice. Another favourite is the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, which is absolutely glorious – I often find inspiration for my own work in this hotel. It was built in the late 1950s and is incredibly elegant; it overlooks Eduardo VII park with its very stylised terraces, and is close to all the chic shopping on Avenida da Liberdade. For a quieter setting, I’d suggest the Olissippo Lapa Palace hotel. It’s in a very tranquil residential area, has a lovely pool, ocean views and a casual restaurant called Le Pavillon that’s perfect for a light alfresco lunch.

The Baixa-Chiado district – the city centre – is great for its mix of small shops; there are lots of silversmiths and assorted artisans. Leitão & Irmão on Largo do Chiado is a traditional gold- and silversmith that specialises in jewellery and decorative objects. Vista Alegre is a must for old Portuguese porcelain, especially the gorgeous blue variety, but also for the green cabbage-motif plates that are so popular – they originated in Portugal. This area is also home to numerous antiques shops, where you’ll find maritime artefacts from the East India Company’s explorations of China. And one of my favourite sources of fine linens is here: Paris em Lisboa, a charming shop in the Chiado that specialises in white-on-white embroidered sheets and linen hand towels. 

This neighbourhood is also a great spot for lunch, and Belcanto, with its chic setting, is probably its best place. The chef, José Avillez, has two Michelin stars, and his delicious food has Portuguese flavours but reflects a global approach to cooking. For a traditional bica – espresso – I always recommend the art deco-style Café a Brasileira. It exudes old-world elegance and there are works by important Portuguese painters such as José de Almada Negreiros. To just sit here on a long bench with pleasant strangers and savour a pastéis de nata– a traditional egg-custard tart – is a very Lisboan thing to do. As you explore, you’ll notice that the pavements are dotted with beautiful black and white cobblestones. I always tell friends to wear comfortable flats, because while Portuguese women have mastered the art of wearing heels on these uneven stones, most tourists have not.

Café and pastry shop Pastéis de Belém, a great spot for local colour | Image: TPHOTOS

Another must is a walk – or tram ride – up to Alfama, which is the city’s oldest quarter. You’ll be met with gorgeous views of rolling greenery, the Tagus and all the towering churches below. At the very top sits the Portas do Sol [Doors to the Sun] garden and the majestic citadel Castelo de São Jorge. This area is home to some of the most incredible Portuguese crafts; you can view them at the Decorative Arts Museum and its adjacent workshop. It’s amazing to watch the centuries-old gilding, leather binding, inlaying and woodworking still going on; such is the level of skill here that the Louvre entrusts the restoration of its books to these artisans. You can have a perfect lunch on the terrace at Chapitô à Mesa – an incredibly charming place with several different rooms and wide city views – before exploring the area’s churches. The 12th-century Sé Cathedral and the Magdalena Church are two of my favourites – so intimate and full of beautiful tile work.

Fado is Lisbon’s traditional folk music, incorporating mandolins and guitars, and you’ll probably hear it wafting through the streets in Bairro Alto and Alfama. You can just step into any casual tavern for a simple meal and listen to this wonderful singing; it sounds a bit like country music – the lyrics are usually about love and loss – and is always telling a big story.

The reception at Bairro Alto Hotel is overlooked by a mezzanine bar

It’s worth a quick trip just outside town to see the 15th-century Jerónimos Monastery, a glorious white marble cathedral built in the manueline style, with its intricate gothic detailing and classic gardens. You can also wander across the nearby bridge to explore the yachting centre; the seaside atmosphere is perfectly Portuguese, as is a lunch of battered fish or octopus and potato salad at Alcântara. My other choice, always, for seafood is the bustling Doc Cod, located at Santo Amaro docks, overlooking the river and the iconic 25 de Abril Bridge.

Once you’ve fuelled up, why not go to see the nearby Torre de Belém, which is an ode to the Age of Discovery. The modern concert hall is a beautiful, Carlo Scarpa-type structure with incredible acoustics. Afterwards, a great spot for local colour is café and pastry shop Pastéis de Belém; its signature Bolo Rei fruitcake is legendary.

The view of the ocean from the Torre de Belém | Image: Gabriele Croppi/ SIME/ 4Corners Images

If you only do one museum, it should be the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, also called the Museu das Janelas Verdes for its location on the “Street of Green Windows”. It’s in the Palácio de Alvor, a former palace of the Count of Alvor, and exhibits incredible jewellery and precious stones from the 18th century, as well as inlaid furniture and decorative arts that date from the Middle Ages through to the 19th century. The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum is much smaller – a real gem – and contains one of the world’s greatest collections of Lalique jewellery. 

But any visit to Lisbon should focus on food and drink. Anything involving cod, particularly bacalhau that’s been salted and dried, often takes centre stage on a menu. One of the best restaurants for authentic Portuguese food, and generally a festive night out, is A Travessa in the Bairro da Madragoa area. It’s housed in a 17th-century convent and the atmosphere is magical. Gambrinus in Baixa is the place to go for fresh fish – try the olive oil‑marinated mackerel or the amazing shellfish soup. The unassuming A Cevicheria is another great spot to enjoy fish, such as grouper or corvina [croaker] ceviche marinated in lime juice, along with a delicious Pisco Sour.  

Unlike other European cities, Lisbon remains remarkably unchanged through history. Its slower pace of life is centred around family and friends. From the beautiful architecture to the artisanal shops and gourmet delights, I can’t think of any other capital city that still truly charms the way it does – and that feels so personal. When you come here, stress will feel a million miles away.

A supremely comfortable bicycle with retro design cachet

Old-fashioned features, including wonderfully fat tyres, make the Electra bike an easy ride

One of the cleverest gifts I’ve received recently might just be my sea-blue Electra bike, given to me by my husband to use at the beach. It’s a vehicle of curvy charm: the shiny frame, the old-fashioned extra-fat tyres and the wide seat are a retro-design lover’s dream come true.

The Electra Amsterdam bike in aquamarine, $1,260

I use my Townie Balloon 7i EQ bike ($910) for buzzing around a small New England village, but the design makes it hugely comfortable for longer trips too. The brand’s patented Flat Foot Technology (the crank has been moved forward so it’s ahead of the seat tube) and low seat are a bonus for this cyclist d’un certain age because it means I can plant my feet firmly on the ground, without doing battle with a brakeless hipster convolution requiring backpedalling, or anything else that might lead to a wipeout. And the lightweight aluminium frame means that it isn’t the worst thing when that topple does occur (only once thus far).

While the Balloon model has seven gears, I rarely need to use more than three, such is the ease with which you can climb hills. My natural wicker front basket ($50) is a sweet add-on, a handy size for the morning papers or a towel and sunscreen.

The Electra Loft 3i bike in mint mojito, $520

This California-based bike brand may use old-school styling, but is right up to date when it comes to environmental awareness. It also does a line of e-bikes with intriguing sounding names like Ace of Spades Go! ($3,300) and Loft Go! ($2,800), which are meant for zipping across and around town at up to 25kph. And I’d love to own one of its Amsterdam bikes ($1,260) – preferably in a shade of aquamarine, with a jaunty bell on the handlebar.

A treasure trove of midcentury design in Stockholm

A bounteous collection of vintage Nordic furnishings – and a sprinkling of contemporary delights – put this Stockholm boutique firmly on the style map, says Christina Ohly Evans

Stockholm’s gallery-centric Ostermalm area abounds with antiques dealers and design purveyors, but real aficionados of vintage Nordic design all know one name by heart: Modernity. The exquisitely curated shop was opened in 1998 by Andrew Duncanson, a Scot with a design retail background (who was later joined by Isaac Pineus with Duncanson), and is anything but a typically spare Scandi-chic setting. “I wanted to get away from the 50-shades-of-white Swedish norm,” says Duncanson, “so I opted for grey walls.”

Within those walls you’ll find a bounty of furniture, lighting, jewellery and decorative objects by the greats of 20th-century design, including Hans Wegner, Finn Juhl, Georg Jensen, Arne Jacobsen, Poul Hennigsen and Alvar Aalto, as well as works by lesser-known but equally accomplished artisans. While 99 per cent of the pieces are by midcentury Nordic designers, there are a few contemporary items – and Isamu Noguchi’s famous Akari paper lamps (£630) as “the Japanese aesthetic works well with the Swedish sensibility”.

Modernity sells ethereal, organic vases such as this, from £3,500 | Image: Felix Odell

The jewellery and ceramics section is especially eye-catching. Custom shelves and glass vitrines highlight dramatic pieces, such as 1960s silver collar necklaces (from £1,000) by Ibe Dahlquist for Georg Jensen, and a gold and moonstone ring (£1,889) by Swedish maker Sigurd Persson, to dazzling effect. Delicate ceramic and porcelain objects are a passion for Duncanson, whose own Wilhelm Kåge ceramic sculpture and a glass vessel by Tapio Wirkkala were among the store’s first sales. Current highlights include ethereal, organic vases (from £3,500) by sought-after contemporary Italian maker Sandra Davolio; a 1980s celadon-glazed teapot (£598) by Signe Persson Melin for Rörstrand; and a rare, signed Axel Salto for Royal Copenhagen vessel (£50,000) from the 1950s.

Duncanson specialises in provenance: a 1949 Finn Juhl for Niels Vodder sculptural Chieftain armchair (£165,000) in teak and leather is “in mint condition, which is almost impossible to find”; and an iconic Poul Hennigsen Question Mark floor lamp (£22,000) from the 1930s is a rare find. Among Modernity’s most prized offerings is a one-of-a-kind Brazilian rosewood and brass sideboard (£35,000) designed by Ernst Kühn in 1935; it contrasts beautifully with a sleek, customisable bar cabinet (to order, from £30,000) by Ilse Crawford.

An array of 1930s textiles – hand-knotted kilims (from £15,000) by Märta Måås-Fjetterström; a leather and fabric 1950s tapestry (£2,917) by Sten Kauppi – lend the showroom a homely feel. Candlesticks (£533) by Swedish maker Stig Lindberg; a Finnish leaded-glass vase (£2,917) by Gunnel Nyman for Nuutajärvi Notsjö; and sculptural wooden bowls (from £300) by Jonny Mattsson from the 1950s round out the design delights.

With a client base that ranges from MoMA and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art to “people who just come in and want to buy something small and beautiful”, Duncanson buys with a breadth of products in mind. “With pieces ranging from £1,000 to £250,000, the whole concept is to offer an experience. Every object has a story to tell, and I really feel like each one ultimately finds its right home.”

The Aesthete: Joseph Dirand talks personal taste

Architect and interior designer Joseph Dirand’s elegant modernist style has built an illustrious global portfolio that spans restaurants and boutiques, private homes and hotels

My personal style signifiers are Acne’s North jeans, which suit my skinny frame, and classic Nike trainers that work well with the jeans. I prefer a simple aesthetic, so I wear both in shades of grey, black and blue. From £170; acnestudios.com. From £61.95; nike.com. 

The last thing I bought and loved was a Black Mirror Painting by Lawrence Carroll that is reminiscent of the arte povera movement of the 1960s. I love the purity of this abstract oil-on-plywood piece, which now hangs in a prominent place in my living room. Galerie Karsten Greve, 5 Rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris (+331-4277 1937; galerie-karsten-greve.com). 

From left: Acne Studios denim North jeans, from £170. Aesop A Rose By Any Other Name Body Cleanser, $25 for 6.8oz. Dirand’s JM Weston suede loafers, £465 | Image: Alex Cretey Systermans

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a cruise to Antarctica. I love travelling to really remote places such as Patagonia, or any desert, so it’s my dream destination – I am planning a trip for next winter. 

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a cashmere/cotton long-sleeve T-shirt by Parisian brand Majestic Filatures. It is practical, soft and warm for the cooler months. I’ve also rediscovered JM Weston loafers, handmade in Limoges; I bought my first pair 25 years ago. The light-soled Moc style in blue suede is elegant and incredibly comfortable. £465; jmweston.com. €100; majesticfilatures.com. 

A recent “find” is Bellechasse 29 Galerie, started by gallerist Philippe Sinceux and designer and antiques dealer Alain Demachy. They stock an eclectic range of antiques and decorative objects, from 19th-century Scandinavian to French art deco – things that don’t belong together, but somehow just work. I have found some beautiful mirrors and vases there. 29 Rue de Bellechasse, 75007 Paris (+331-4533 1672; bellechasse29.fr). 

An object I would never part with is a pair of bespoke tortoiseshell sunglasses from Maison Bonnet – maker of IM Pei’s and Le Corbusier’s glasses – given to me for my 40th birthday. They fit my face perfectly. 5 Rue des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris (+331‑4296 4635; maisonbonnet.com). 

Antique pieces from Bellechasse 29 Galerie in Paris

The site that inspires me is Villa Malaparte on Capri. I love contemporary structures and this one is exemplary. Although built in the 1930s, it still feels current. The relationship of the minimalist house to the beautiful green landscape and the contrast between the reddish building and the blue sea are pure genius.  

The grooming product I’m never without is A Rose By Any Other Name Body Cleanser by Aesop. I like everything about this natural, gentle product, including the minimalist packaging. $25 for 6.8oz; aesop.com.

The 1930s Villa Malaparte on Capri | Image: Alamy Stock Photo

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the American Southwest. My wife Anne-Sophie and I did a 6,000km road trip through 10 national parks, including Zion, Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon. The landscapes, colours and sunsets were magnificent, as was our stay at Amangiri on Lake Powell in Utah – the perfect, relaxing end to our trek. From $1,900; +1435-675 3999; aman.com.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Yui Edomae Sushi, a tiny Japanese haute cuisine spot in Las Vegas. The omakase [chef’s choice] menu was spectacular. Every dish, from my favourite toro [tuna belly] to the sea urchin, lobster and wagyu beef, was prepared with a magical twist. 3460 Arville St, Las Vegas, NV 89102 (+1702-202 2408; yuisushi.com).

My favourite space in my house is the entryway to our high-ceilinged 17th-century apartment in Paris, because it is both classical and warm. The Marmorino stucco walls are painted a dark grey and the conceptual artwork by Jannis Kounellis that hangs near the front door is really welcoming – it has a formal yet emotional beauty.

My favourite websites include Lecollectionist.com for holiday home rentals and Mrandmrssmith.com for travel tips. I also like the auction site Piasa.fr for art and design inspiration.

High-tech rowing kit with serious pedigree

Scull & Sweep offers all the equipment required for days spent on the water

Rowing calls for kit that’s not only windproof and waterproof, but smart too. New e-tailer Scull & Sweep has just such a cache of stylish gear, thanks to an impeccable pedigree: the site’s founders are Phil Russo, former global creative director for US shoemaker Cole Haan, and industrial designer Nancy Lin, who has Fila and Converse on her CV, while the chairman and CEO is Howard Winklevoss – founder of RowAmerica and father of rowing legends Cameron and Tyler.

Polyamide Regatta Training jacket, from $120, and cotton cap, $25

For action on the water, standouts include the Regatta Training jacket (from $120) in neon yellow or orange that’s water resistant, lightweight and designed to reduce friction, and the Half-Zip Training top ($66), with a wind collar. Cool cotton caps ($25) come emblazoned with the brand’s skull and crossed oars logo, while durable, lightweight duffel bags ($175) are great for carrying the whole kit and caboodle, from cold-morning beanies ($25) and jazzy black and neon-yellow Rowing Life Training socks ($15) to Sore No More rubber seat pads ($40) and water bottles (from $5).

For rowing-club members, Scull & Sweep offers performance-focused reworkings of the classic blazer. The men’s Regatta blazer ($275) is made of a comfortable two-way stretch fabric in rich navy-black with contrasting white lapel piping, and so works both as outerwear for inclement weather and as a smart club jacket. The slimmer-silhouetted women’s version (also $275) has a pop of colour on the folding cuffs. Both can be customised with club logos.

The polyamide Regatta blazer ($275) works as both outerwear and a smart club jacket

For Henley or Harvard alumni – or simply those with romantic notions of university regattas – Scull & Sweep offers a prime piece of escapism. Whether one’s passion is sculling – two-oared rowing – or sweeping with just one oar, or simply working out with an indoor machine, this site offers all the equipment required.

Essentialist, The Bahamas, Island Idylls

Why go now? For a completely relaxing vacation with no big brand hotels, golf courses or spas, look no further than this part of the Bahamas...

Located just 60 miles from Nassau and 200 miles off the coast of Florida, Harbour Island is a magical three-mile long escape full of pastel Colonial cottages and perfectly pristine, pink coral sand beaches. With a handful of stylish, bijoux hotels and restaurants offering Bahamian specialties ranging from fresh conch to grouper to the local sweet lobster, Harbour Island is the perfect place for those in search of quiet, beach-filled days and starry, laid-back nights.

Where The Bahamas

Quick Quote $900 per day

Best Season winter and spring

Thinking of…romance, relaxation, style

WHERE TO STAY

Set on the island’s 3-mile stretch of fine pink sand, The Dunmore features one-bedroom cottages and suites—each adjoining so that they work well for families. The rooms—with cheery names like Pink North and South—are beachy-chic with lots of rattan and the signature Dunmore color palette of white and orange. Standout amenities include a pool and sweet pavilion that look like something out of a Slim Aarons photograph circa 1960.

“Harbour Island is just small enough, just low key enough and ever so slightly hard to get to which means that the people you’ll encounter understand just how special the place is. Nothing is fancy, yet everything has a casual chic vibe - it’s an aesthete’s paradise!”

The Ocean View Club is a 12-room, midcentury-influenced enclave set on the pink sand beach. Each of the rooms features a slate plaque outside the door bearing the occupant’s name, and the feeling here is one of an intimate house party. The Landing, a 12-room boutique hotel set on a property that dates back to 1800, has a slightly Balinese/Colonial vibe with a destination-worthy restaurant. The pink sand beach is just a 5-minute walk away and the hotel has a lovely pool. The elegant rooms were designed by India Hicks. The Rock House is a white-washed, 10-room hotel with a hidden pool and cabanas that are suitable for guests 18 years and older. Each room is individually decorated and many have private adjacent cabana’s and some have private decks.

WHERE TO EAT

The Dunmore restaurant is the best bet for a leisurely lunch on the see-and-be-seen patio. Choose from farro and kale salads, grilled fish of the day, fish tacos and new twists on the classic Cobb salad.Queen Conch is an authentic, cheap spot for “cracked” fried conch as well as ceviche and conch chowder by the harbor front on Bay Street. Ask to sit by the back pool at The Rock House Restaurant and you're transported to Marrakech, complete with glass lanterns and little hidden nooks. Standouts include the seafood, conch, and the signature “hokey pokey” mochi ice cream dessert. Not for kids under 12. Davine wine store has long been the go-to for fine vintages, but this year has seen the addition of a delicious sushi restaurant by night. Choose from freshly caught tuna sashimi, black miso cod, and starters that are perfect for sharing.

WHAT TO DO

Explore the island by golf cart; Snorkeling, diving, and deep sea fishing excursions are among the more popular offerings. An Expedition to the Glass Window, aka the nexus of the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean where there's a small hole that allows some of the wash to pass through to the soft side especially at high tide also a magical nearby cave that forms a geyser whenever a particularly powerful wave crashes in. Shop at The Blue Rooster, a quaint blue and white island cottage dating from 1840, which is the place for fabulous caftans, jewelry, sandals and woven straw hats and purses and The Sugar Mill, India Hicks' emporium full of dresses, beachy beads, house presents, etc. is a study in muted chic colors.

DETOUR TO KAMALAME CAY

Just off Andros’ mainland, this 96-acre sanctuary has been owned by the Hew family for the past 23 years and is one of the best places on earth to truly relax and fully check out. This magical oasis is all about good food, a welcoming, inclusive vibe, and casual beach living—you need only pack a bathing suit and a sarong for leisurely lunches or tiki torch-lit nighttime celebrations. The 27 villas spread across the The Kamalame Cay Hotel are high-ceilinged and spacious, and all feature canopy beds with a West Indies vibe. These rooms are designed for rest and rejuvenation, so there are no televisions, but stereos, Nespresso machines, and golf carts are all complimentary amenities. Helpful staff will organize any outings from snorkeling and diving to fly fishing and sailing. 

Christina Ohly Evans is a New York-based journalist and the US Correspondent for the Financial Times magazine, How to spend it where she covers travel, architecture, design and fashion. She is also a Contributor to Condé Nast Traveler and serves as Editor at Large for travel and design magazine, SURFACE. Christina has lived between the UK and the US for the past 25 years, and currently resides with her husband and two teenagers on Manhattan’s Upper West Side.

Now Do This: Best Travel Deals, Steals & News 2017

This is the 2017 edition of Now Do This, our monthly compendium of timely travel deals and special offers. The current edition is here.

Updated 12/20/17:

If you forgot to make year-end holiday plans, we found a few options still left. Where is Team Fathom spending their holidays? It's a mix. Half of us are in Australia, Singapore, San Miguel de Allende, and Peru; half of us are staying home and catching up on piles of novels, which is itself its own vacation. Whatever you do, have a great one.

TRIPS TO BOOK

Spain: Nestled among Spain's Rhonda mountains is the extremely dreamy La Donaira, an eco-certified horse farm with impeccable design details. The serene nine-room resort has five deluxe accommodations available over Christmas. Rates are 400€ per person per night and include all breakfasts, special holiday lunches and dinners, drinks and snacks in between meals, bicycles (cycling is big here) and the spa (indoor swimming pool, sauna, Turkish bath).

London and Paris: Paris Perfect, the apartment rental company we've covered before, and their UK counterpart London Perfect have deals for up to 25% off for Christmas and New Year's stays. Check Google Flights for the cheapest airfare, and you're off.

Rome: Get the new year off to an Eternal City start at Baglioni Hotel Regina. The NYE gala party will include live jazz, a big Italian dinner with big Italian drinks, a magic show, and a DJ after midnight. The three-night stay in a deluxe room starts at 2,850€. Email reservations.reginaroma@baglionihotels.com to book.

Worldwide with Kimpton: Beginning at 12 a.m. EST on New Year's Day, would-be guests at Viceroy hotels will have 72 hours to book discounts from 30% or more on properties in LA, SF, NY (45% on Viceroy Central Park), Chicago, Riviera Maya, and Abu Dhabi. Ski bums and snowbirds can take 20% off hotels in Snowmass and Saint Lucia.

Hampsire, England: Fancy a wintry jaunt to the English countryside? The Pig at Brockenhurst is offering a winter treat: you, plus one, on a midweek stay with breakfast and a souvenir bottle of house vino, for just £139. Valid January-February 2018, excluding hols, as Brits like to call them.

Saanenland, Switzerland: For those who want to enjoy the snow without actually playing in it, glam ski hideaway Gstaad Palace has a new offering called Between Heaven and Earth — lunch by helicopter over the Matterhorn, one of the highest mountains in the Alps.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

I'm just back from the Bahamas, where I stayed at the new Baha Mar, a mega resort with a Grand Hyatt, a very chic SLS, and a soon-to-open Rosewood Hotel. On-site were countless pools, a tasty conch shack, and a big casino where I met killer lady dealers. But I was most impressed by a tour of studios and gallery of The Current, the hotel's curated program dedicated to Bahamian art and culture, led by local artist Steffon Grant. Quiet Harbour Island was more my speed, and I had a hard time leaving Bahama House, the new eleven-room compound from Eleven Experiences. I'll be back: I didn't drink enough mango daiquiris at Sip Sip, the legendary lunch restaurant. — Pavia, CEO

Earlier this month, I spent the most visually satisfying day in southern Connecticut, where I walked the rolling hills of Grace Farms, enjoyed a long lunch at the festively decorated Terrain, and toured The Inn at GrayBarns on the Silvermine River, followed by drinks at the cozy new restaurant. – Berit, editor

I spent early December in the French Alps (they're already covered in snow) for the grand opening of oh-so-stylish Club Med Grand Massif Samoëns Morillon. I hadn't done the all-inclusive thing since I was a kid, but it made my trip so, so easy, which was especially gratifying during this crazy time of year. I'm still pretty sore, but not sure if it's from all-day skiing or all-night dancing. – Kim, contributing writer

HOTEL INTEL

Last week we rounded up our top hotel openings of late 2017, including a new luxury tented safari camp in Sri Lanka, a stylish boutique hotel in Copenhagen, and a neo-gothic castle in the Irish countryside. It’s time to start planning your 2018 vacations.

Tennessee's most luxurious hotel, Blackberry Farm, has broken ground on a new property called Blackberry Mountain. Set among 5,200 acres of wild land, the hotel will fuse the fine dining they're already famous for and modern comforts with a rustic and adventurous mountain setting. The hotel is scheduled to open in February 2019, and we can't wait.

The making of a Hudson-inspired camera bag. Photo courtesy of Zio & Sons.

Updated 11/15/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

Zambia: Spend your holidays in one of Africa’s last unspoiled wilderness regions. The Bushcamp Company is offering 30% off six-night stays at the award-winning Mfuwe Lodge as well as the recently renovated Kapamba and Zungulila Bushcamps. Priced at $2,100 per person and valid from December 1, 2017 - January 15, 2018. Mention “festive offer” at checkout.

Brooklyn, New York: Cook Space is a gorgeous and approachable culinary school offering an array of classes that range from dim sum and Vietnamese street food to Ayurvedic cooking. Receive a 15% discount when you signup for a class on Black Friday or Cyber Monday by using the codes BLACKFRIDAY2017 and CYBERMONDAY2017, respectively.

British Virgin Islands: Looking for a warm way to recover from Thanksgiving with the family? Head to the Caribbean for the Anegada Lobster Festival on November 25 and November 26th. (Yes, the Caribbean is open! And they want us to all go back!)

North Fork, New York: Looking for romance? Cozy up with your nearest and dearest at the classic-meets-modern Sound View, a renovated motel in Greenport. The secluded seaside resort is offering a winter package that includes a romantic meal for two at The Halyard, plus four bottles of local wine. Rates start at $340, with a two-night minimum.

Charleston, South Carolina: Bookmark this Cyber Monday sale: Well-heeled travelers can save 25% off their stay at The Spectator Hotel between December 1, 2017 - August 31, 2018. Offer available from November 27 - December 1, 2017.

Borneo: The Great Projects (who we've covered before on Fathom) are offering their oragnutan voluntourism trip in Borneo at 15% off if booked by November 30. Check out the earnest promo video they made about volunteering to see lots of cute monkey business.

New York, New York: Reasons to visit The Whitby hotel this holiday season: a Thanksgiving-themed package, holiday wreath-making class with master florist Lewis Miller, Sunday movie club with seasonal classics like It’s a Wonderful Life and Home Alone 2, and a special New Year’s Eve evening.

Singapore: This fall marked the opening of the first Andaz hotel in Southeast Asia. Conveniently located just 20 minutes from Changi airport, Andaz Singapore is having a 20% off sale on standard rate room bookings through January 31, 2018.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

I just returned from the Caribbean Wine and Food Festival in Turks and Caicos, where the spirit of endurance and recovery was both touching and strong. I stayed at Grace Bay Club — one of my favorites — and toured The Residences, their gorgeous new five-bedroom villas, which come with a pool, a private chef, and a secluded white-sand beach. (I so want to come back with a gang...) The final dinner of the festival was held at The Shore Club, the swank new sister property of The Palms, which has one of the prettiest spas I've ever seen. - Pavia, CEO

On a recent fall photo walk around Hudson, New York, I crossed these places off my upstate wish list: restaurant and boardroom Wm Farmers & Sons, home decor boutique Hawkins, and This Old Hudson, a studio space and weekend lodging option from the creative agency Zio & Sons, who just released a very stylish Hudson-inspired camera bag in collaboration with ONA. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

Drum roll please: Aman Resorts has announced their next city destination will be New York City. Scheduled to open in 2020, the Jean-Michel Gathy-designed 83-room hotel will occupy the iconic Crown Building overlooking Central Park.

COMO Hotels and Resorts is opening a new oceanside retreat. COMO Echo Beach is slated to open in February in Canggu, a quaint coastal village with a six-mile beach that boasts some of Bali’s best surf breaks.

Later this winter, Collective Retreats, the pop-up travel company with outposts in Vail, Yellowstone, and Hudson Valley, will open Collective Hill Country, a Retreat at Montesino Ranch. Located on 225 acres of ranch and organic farmland, the Wimberly, Texas glamping site will have 12 tents outfitted in plush beds with 1,550-thread-count Egyptian cotton linens and “farm-to-flame” dining.

Updated 10/18/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

• Tel Aviv: Hotel Montefiore is hosting Michelin-star chef Bo Bech of Geist Restaurant in Copenhagen as part of this year’s Amex Round Tables event in Tel Aviv, November 12-17.

• Hollywood, Florida: The Diplomat Beach Resort, the iconic Florida hotel fifteen minutes south of Fort Lauderdale airport, has just completed a stylish and fun $100 million renovation. Consider it a family-friendly, laid-back alternative to South Beach.

• India: Holiday in style with a spectacular Abercrombie & Kent nine-day tour of India that includes two visits to the Taj Mahal (sunrise and sunset) and a sail on the shimmering Lake Pichola. Prices from $8,995 per person.

• Papua New Guinea: Try your hand at island survival with Oceana Expeditions Kabakon Survivor experience. Guests are dropped off on a secluded island and left to fend for themselves (with a little help, of course).

• Puglia, Italy: Dreaming about opening your own boutique hotel? Here’s your chance. Pre-book your stay at Amberlair, a historic villa surrounded by olive trees and vineyards that is crowdsourcing funding to meet their 2020 opening date.

• Europe: Cross the continent the scenic way. Eurail is having a 20 percent off sale for train passes purchased through December, including Global Pass (good in 28 countries), Select Pass (2-4 bordering countries), and One Country Pass (choose from 22).

• Catskill Mountains, New York: Reasons to visit Scribner's Lodge this fall: Yoga for Bad People and fly fishing with Esopus Creel (10/27-29), bushwhacking (11/4), and a stay-three-nights-for-the-price-of-two weekday special.

• Big Sur, California: Highway One is open! After a massive landslide wiped out a section of the road, the iconic route on the Cali coast is welcoming cars once again. Quick, make a reservation for Post Ranch Inn.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

• Great rainy day hang: Sir Adam, a new Design Hotels property in Amsterdam Noord. It has hearty burgers, games, 'zines, huge floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the river, and a rock-and-roll vibe. Jump on the ferry for literally one minute and you're at Central Station. – Jeralyn, editorial director

• I’m still thinking about my long weekend at São Lourenço do Barrocal, a stylish family-run farm estate in Portugal’s Alentejo region. I spent my days reading by the pool, dining on farm-fresh cuisine, and indulging in treatments at the Susanne Kaufmann Spa. – Berit, senior editor

• In Marrakech for the Pure travel show, I stayed at three great hotels. Opulent Hotel Selman outside the city has a pool that goes on forever and a dazzling equestrian program. In the medina, Villa des Orangers delivers understated luxury at its finest (and has a cute resident turtle!), while La Sultana is a labyrinth of sumptuous connecting riads. I ate so well at all of them. – Pavia, CEO

• While in Marrakech, Jeralyn and I attended a preview of the stunning new Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, adjacent to Jardin Majorelle. Along with Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, it's one of two new institutions dedicated to the designer who so loved Morocco. – Pavia, CEO

• One of the most memorable experiences from a recent day in Madrid was walking through El Matadero, a former municipal slaughterhouse-turned-vibrant multidisciplinary art center. A design center, theater, cinema, cafe, multiple gallery spaces, and plenty of beautiful public space are set on what used to be a gruesome and miserable plot of land. The juxtaposition is sort of like art in itself. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

• Considering Ghent, Belgium, for our next Euro escape, so we can book a stay at 1898 The Post, a stunning neo-gothic post office-turned-boutique hotel.

• Relais Christine, a Fathom Favorite in Paris, has just finished a chic renovation by designer Laura Gonzalez. A Guerlain spa will open this month.

• This month marks the opening of Dave, a new affordable boutique hotel with a fun-loving attitude in the heart of Tel Aviv.

• Classic Americana is a nice weekend aesthetic. Try it on in spring 2018, when the Blackburn Inn opens in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia.

Festival of Lights in Thailand. Photo courtesy of Remote Lands.

Updated 8/16/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

• Paris and London: Need an excuse for a last-minute city break? Perfect Experiences, the luxury apartment rental and concierge service, is offering up to 30 percent on stays of up to five nights or more through September 25, 2017.

• Big Sur, California: Take to the skies with a chopper ride over one of the USA's most stunning landscapes. While Highway 1 is undergoing repairs, the iconic southern route to Big Sur is accessible to guests of Post Ranch Inn via helicopter from Hearst Castle Pergola in San Simeon, California. The Hearst Castle helicopter package is available through October 7, 2017.

• Scandinavia: Go see what all the fuss is about in Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Oslo. Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) is having a big sale, with deals from $499 round-trip for travel between their seven US gateways and Europe from October 4 and May 31. Don't wait: The sale ends August 24.

• Cartagena: If you haven't been to Colombia yet, here's a great reason to head down. Our pals at Skylark scored a great airfare-plus-hotel deal at the chic and charming Tcherassi Hotel. (You'll have to join Skylark to get the rates.)

• Marfa, Texas: For Burning Man vibes in the West Texas desert, head to the 12th annual Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love. The communal, nomadic campground concept (guests sleep in vintage trailers, Sioux-style tepees, yurts, and safari tents) runs from September 28 to October 1, 2017.

• Chesapeake Bay, Maryland: Classic car aficionados will want to head to Inn at Perry Cabin by Belmond from September 21-26 for the return of the Concours d'Elgance. The hotel is celebrating the three-day event with a special package that includes accommodations, champagne, and VIP tickets.

• Asia: If you've got a spare $64,888 in a cupboard somewhere, consider Remote Land's 17-day, Aman Hotels journey through Asia. Sixteen people will fly private jet and hotel-hop from China to Bhutan to India to Sri Lanka from October 8-24. If you want even more, the 21-day trip in April includes Vietnam, Montenegro, and Japan.

• Southeast Asia: Another reason to fly east in the spring: May is the kickoff for planting season in Cambodia and Vietnam. Get your fill of lush tropical landscapes on an Aqua Expeditions Mekong River cruise during "green season." Book now to take advantage of the special summer rate of 30 percent off departures between May 1-July 27, 2018.

WHERE WE'VE BEEN

• I went on a grand hotel tour in London last July. In brief: I spent opening night at Nobu Hotel Shoreditch, the chain's first standalone hotel, where I loved the calm Zen vibe and the brass fittings in the bathroom (really! they were gorgeous!). I toured the don't-call-it-a-Soho-House Ned and tried to count the 400 restaurants in the former bank building (kidding, though barely). I previewed the trippy Mandrake, which has the best multi-beast taxidermied kangaroo-deer-peacock I've ever seen, as well as a beautiful atrium with hanging vines. I found Flemings Mayfair to be as great as Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly says it is. And I had my best meal of the trip at chef Ollie Dabbous's restaurant at super charming Henrietta Hotel in Covent Garden. That is all. – Pavia, CEO

• I have a long list of cute Hudson Valley B&Bs to check out, but had a helluva time finding one that allows kids. One of our 24 Best Travel Blogs & Websites, And North, tipped me off to Audrey's Farmhouse, a very cozy, 280-year-old farmhouse in Wallkill, run by a cool couple who outfitted five bedrooms and a cottage with chic furniture, Aesop toiletries, coffee table books, and taxidermy. They make a killer breakfast, converted a pool into a natural swimming hole (with frogs!) and set up a few hammocks, walking paths, and a fire pit in their big backyard. Looking forward to going back once snow falls. – Jeralyn, editorial director

• I checked into to the recently opened Hotel RL, a budget-friendly property on the border of Bushwick and Bed-Stuy with a charming back garden, decent lobby bar, and community-oriented performance space. I'm glad that more boutique hotels are popping up in Brooklyn, especially outside Williamsburg, though this one felt more like a step above a hostel than anything else. Still, being able to earn a free night stay by donating to Project Wake Up Call, the hotel's partner philanthropic initiative, is a nice way to book an affordable room in the heart of Brooklyn. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

• We've got our eye on the late August arrival of Proper Hotel San Francisco, a new hotel concept from former Viceroy Hotels CEO Brad Korzen and his design superstar wife Kelly Wearstler. Also in the pipeline are outposts in Hollywood, Downtown LA, Austin, and Santa Monica.

• Later this month, Verride Palacio Santa Catarina, an 18th-century Portuguese palace-turned-hotel will be making its debut in the heart of Lisbon.

• Renowned Danish ballet dancer Alexander Kølpin is behind the fall opening of Sanders, a stunning 54-room boutique hotel in Copenhagen's historic center.

• Edition Hotels is making a big commitment to Tokyo. Come 2020, the Ian Schrager-designed boutique will open not one, but two new properties.

Updated 7/18/17:

• How can you go on safari without using a year's worth of vacation days? Nomad Tanzania's Streamlined Safari is a good option. In six days, you'll see a Discovery Channel checklist: the Serengeti plains, the Ngorongoro crater, a Masaai tribe, and, of course, amazing wildlife. It's available year-round, but if you want to see the Great Migration, go between June and November. Rates begin at $5,283.

• It's not too late to book a trip to see this summer's total solar eclipse — the first in decades. On August 21, 2017, the newly opened Anvil Hotel in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, will host a jam-packed day of fun events, including a moon-flow yoga class, local bands, and a tailgate lunch. Individual tickets are $375 and can be reserved by calling the hotel directly, or come for a four-night stay, which starts at $1,145.

• At LE Miami last month, we learned about La Donaira, a gorgeous eco-minded retreat in southern Spain. From August 18-22, they're hosting their first Pause Festival, five days of concerts, yoga,workshops, tapas, and vino. The big idea? To connect by disconnecting. Sounds like an excellent excuse to go see it all firsthand.

• Dreaming of Iceland? The Nordic country's affordable air carrier, Wow Air, has launched a new route connecting Chicago's O'Hare (ORD) to Keflavík (KEF). One-way fares start at $150.

• Start planning your trip to the biggest balloon fiesta in the world, the 46th Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, which takes place October 7-15, 2017, in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Check out the daily schedule of events.

• If you're looking for a summer steal, consider a last-minute getaway to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, where you can save 30 percent on luxury villas and residences at Esperanza, an Auberge Resort.

• Enjoy summer in Amsterdam like the Dutch do. Conservatorium, a Fathom Favorite hotel, is offering a Welcome to Holland package, which includes a private cycling tour, canal boat ride, and a picnic in Vondelpark through September 17, 2017. Rates start at €566.50 and require a two-night stay.

• The beautifully renovated Pulitzer Amsterdam is conducting a little VIP action during the annual Grachtenfestival, August's ten-day classical music showcase for emerging and established talent. Guests of the hotel can enjoy cocktails, bites, and concerts in the inner garden (8/13 and 8/16), not to mention incredible seats for The Pulitzer Concert, which is staged on pontoons floating on the water directly in front of the hotel. Really get into the spirit by booking the Music Collector's Suite, a two-room suite complete with a collection of vinyl, a vintage record player, and instruments.

If you want help planning any of these trips, email us at travel@fathomaway.com to book through the Fathom Travel Desk.

Updated 4/28/17:

• Want to show mom Mother's Day love? Take her away. 21C, our favorite museum-cum-hotel in Lexington, Kentucky, is offering a Renew, Refresh, Relax package for an overnight stay in corner room, $100 spa credit, breakfast, and a Malin + Goetz gift bag.

• One for the family: Memorial Day weekend at Mohonk Mountain House in upstate New York. The agenda includes A Jelly Bean Field Day and a magic show for the littles, tomahawk throwing and archery for the apathetic teens.

• It's Great Migration season though Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, and to celebrate the arrival of the zebras (by the hudreds of thousands!) and widebeests (a million of 'em!), Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti is giving guests the fourth night free.

• Do you do that thing where you go on vacation and find yourself planning your next vacation? We do, too. The folks at Baglioni Resort Cala del Porto, a fantastic Tuscan hotel that we visited last year, will give guests who go to Italy two free nights at their sister hotel Baglioni Resort Maldives. Yes, you'll be thanking your July vacation in January.

Troutbeck Is (Once Again) New York City's Perfect Retreat

The just-opened Troutbeck hotel is a unique Hudson Valley hideaway that’s at once historic, low-key, and luxurious. Christina Ohly takes a look around.

AMENIA, New York — All the cool kids are flocking to the Hudson Valley — and for good reason. They’re drawn to the lush landscape, the fine cuisine, and the lack of traffic and pretense. So it has always puzzled me why there are so few — if any — really lovely, top-notch places to stay around here. 

The scene has just changed for the better with the opening of the re-envisioned Troutbeck, a 250 year-old inn-cum-gathering spot in Amenia that has played host to Ralph Waldo Emerson, Henry David Thoreau, Mark Twain, Ernest Hemmingway, Governor Teddy Roosevelt, and such giants of the civil liberties movement as Sinclair Lewis, W.E.B. Du Bois, Thurgood Marshall, and Langston Hughes.

You’re swept up in the history of the place from the approach: a glorious lawn leading to a massive slate-covered Manor House. The building has seventeen highly individualized rooms — some sprawling suites, some intimate doubles that are perfect for a one-night escape. They were designed by Alexandra Champalimaud, whose storied hotel credits include The Hotel Bel-Air and The Carlyle. But this project is personal: Not only is she a nearby resident, but her son Anthony Champalimaud is the hotelier running the luxurious compound.

Troutbeck is personal for me, too, as my mother lives in the area. I initially came for lunch, having heard that the chef from Fish & Game, a wonderful Dutchess County restaurant, had landed here.

I was beyond impressed by the food and the ambience. What started as a quest for a simple salad and sandwich led to a leisurely lunch with Anthony, who spent hours telling me incredible stories of Troutbeck’s past and showing me around the 45-acre property, including the rooms at the separate Century House. Cottages, which are slated to open next summer, will no doubt appeal to discerning travelers who love their privacy.

BOOK IT

Rates change seasonally and typically range from $225-$900 depending on room type. Click here for reservations.

Checking In

Location
The Dutchess County property is just two easy hours from New York City on border of Litchfield County, Connecticut. The setting is ideal throughout the seasons: Hiking, biking, snowshoeing, reading by a roaring fire, and swimming in the pool in summer are just a few of the activities on offer.

Hotel Style
The current owners — a consortium of area residents who prefer to stay under the radar — have preserved the rich roots of Troutbeck while updating it for today’s tasteful (and demanding) traveler. The original slate tiles remain on the exterior of the Manor House, but interiors have been lightened to create warm, minimalist, homey spaces. The guest rooms are highly individualized and honor the original woodwork, windows, and quirky configurations, but have been updated with LCD TVs, Tivoli Audio Bluetooth everything, and Frette linens that making lying in a must.

This Place Is Perfect For
Couples looking for a weekend escape, anyone looking to gather a group of friends for the ultimate and intimate house party, and families with older children who seek a dose of nature and maybe skiing at nearby Mohawk Mountain. Troutbeck is also perfect for history buffs and, come to think of it, anyone looking to write their next, great novel.

What’s on Site
The smart owners have thought of virtually everything a picky Manhattanite might need, and gear is plentiful supply. No need to pack snowshoes, tennis rackets, yoga mats, children’s toys, or even chic Kenyan Kikoy towels for swaddling post-swim. It’s all here.

The food is no afterthought and is in plentiful supply. The spacious main restaurant seats 76 and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Seating options include cozy booths, an inviting farm table for twelve in front the fireplace, and an outdoor deck for casual suppers under the stars. It has become a magnet for locals, so be sure to book ahead. The seasonal poolside grill serves incredible burgers. A fully stocked pantry (with a cute Smeg fridge) is a nice touch for returning outdoor enthusiasts or anyone in search of cocktail hour nibbles.

Number of Rooms
There are 37 total guest rooms in the Manor House and Century House, with nine suites and multiple connecting configurations possible. Cottages will open in the summer.

In-Room Amenities
The WiFi is excellent, as are the Malin & Goetz bath products that match Troutbeck’s low-key yet luxurious aesthetic. Thick Frette robes, down duvets, radiant heated bathrooms, soaking tubs with smart book caddies, and breakfast in bed are among the thoughtful touches.

Drawbacks
I am hard-pressed to identify one, but, if pushed, a few of the rooms are dark. The building is old and made of wood and slate, so this is to be expected. If this is an issue, request a light-filled room upon booking.

Standout Details
The standouts are the original features that have been painstakingly preserved, like the Walled Garden dating from 1916 that’s tiered over two levels and feels like a magical escape. And the stylish pole barn now strewn with little white lights to make for an ideal party setting. A sweet old stone chapel makes the visitor feel like they’re in Ye Olde England.

In terms of contemporary standouts, the food and service make Troutbeck feel so warm and welcoming. I’ve never had a more delicious (if elevated!) grilled cheese sandwich, and the staff are all so incredibly kind and accommodating that the hotel feels, to borrow an overused cliché that really fits, like a home away from home.

Checking Out

Surroundings
The 45 wooded acres of Troutbeck have it all: streams for fishing (poles are provided), hiking trails, towns dotted with cute antique shops, bucolic spots for morning yoga. It’s a quiet, natural setting just perfect for quick restoration.

What to Do Nearby
You’re in striking distance of all sort of interesting options, like the artist-run The Wassaic Project and MassMOCA in nearby Lenox, Massachusetts, a world-class art destination that’s worth a day trip. So is a detour north to the antique-filled town of Hudson for mid-century and vintage furniture at Red Chair on Warren and beautifully curated finds at Finch. Fuel up on inventive pizzas at Baba Louie’s before heading south to explore the quaint towns of Litchfield, Kent, and Salisbury with their postcard-perfect white church steeples. For those with a need for speed, Lime Rock Park offers race car driving lessons and skiers will love nearby Mohawk Mountain.

Plan Your Trip

How to Get There
Troutbeck is an easy two-hour drive from New York City and six minutes away from the Wassaic train station that’s serviced by MetroNorth. Stewart International Airport is an hour away and is serviced by flights from Europe and Canada.

Getting Around
A car is definitely helpful as there is so much to explore — towns, parks, stores, and art galleries. The hotel will happily pick up guests from the train station, so if you plan to sit still and lounge on property, a train trip with no car works perfectly well.

Keep Exploring the Hudson Valley

A Romantic Hudson Valley Retreat For All Seasons
A Romantic Hudson Valley Retreat For All Seasons
A Storm King Kind of Sunday
The Best of City and Country Rolled into One Little Weekend in Hudson, NY

A Winsome Stay at Zurich's Widder Hotel

Modernism meets medieval history at the Widder Hotel on the shores of Lake Zurich.

ZURICH — Zurich is having something of a design moment and a foodie moment. So much so that I'd say the Swiss lakes are giving Italy a run for its money. Visitors are in for rare treats in the beautifully preserved city on the shores of Lake Zurich. 

I was especially taken on my recent visit when I stayed at the Widder Hotel, a five-star, design-led boutique in the heart of the quaint Old Town. A series of townhouses from the 15th-century have been expertly combined to create a 49-room sanctuary, with two restaurants and one very chic bar scene.

The hotel’s authentic shuttered façade overlooks Rennweg, a pedestrian street in the quiet Augustiner quarter, a perfect jumping-off point for exploration. I loved this neighborhood of medieval church spires and cobblestone walkways, but it was the juxtaposition of styles at The Widder that really won me over. From the intimate library (original stone walls, Eames chairs, state-of-the-art, wood-burning stove) to the sleek glass elevators, the Widder is a wonderful discovery for tourists, foodies, and business travelers alike.

Book It

Design Double Rooms start at CHF470 ($480). The penthouse (CHF4,000) has fireplaces, terraces, and bi-level spaces ideal for large groups and long-term stays. Check for availability.

Checking In

This place is stylish from the minimalist check-in desk. Everyone, from the helpful concierges to the valets, is clad in sleek suits (and appears under low, directional lighting). It feels polished and luxurious. You’ll want to enlist the help of the connected concierge for advice on exploring the surrounding historic neighborhood and for help booking the best tables.

Location
Set in the heart of the Old Town, the location can’t be beat for its proximity to not only the business district, but also to the unspoiled beauty of Lake Zurich, the Limmat River, and the snow-capped Alps. The bustling shopping street, Bahnhofstrasse, is steps away, but it is the peaceful surrounding streets that make the location so special. Tip: Hundreds of church bells on Sunday mornings make for a rare symphony.

Hotel Style
Modernism meets medieval history with original, rough-hewn oak beams integrated with glass and chrome walls. It feels less like a hotel and more like a guest lounge. The Igloo, a winter pop-up that runs from November 2 to January 31, 2018, is a glass atrium bar that's been transformed into an all-white winter wonderland serving icy cocktails and traditional Raclette.

This Place Is Perfect For
The Widder is ideal for business travelers (it’s quiet and just steps from the Financial District), curious tourists, and design lovers (the mix of original oak finishes and cutting edge LED TVs and glass elements are just fascinating). The whole place is something of an engineering feat.

But Not So Perfect For
The Widder isn’t as perfect as say, Dolder Grand, for families with young kids. It has a quieter tone — and no swimming pool — and it caters to a slightly older crowd.

What’s on Site
A subterranean fitness center with TechnoGym equipment is excellent for curing jet lag (personal training and nutritional coaching are available), but this isn’t a spa destination. For that, book in at the nearby Dolder Grand for the Norman Foster-designed spa with every state-of-the-art, soothing treatment under the Swiss sun.

Food + Drink
Breakfast is often included in the room rate (subject to booking) and the bright AuGust brasserie offers everything from homemade Bircher muesli to croissants, with a vast selection of teas and frothy coffees. The more formal Widder Bar & Kitchen is a destination for locals and serves a weird mélange of cuisines — Swiss favorites, curries, themed tasting menus focused on a specific ingredient (recent examples include chili, cilantro, basil). The Widder Bar Summer Lounge is a truly special, leafy niche that’s "open in fine weather” from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

The Rooms
There are 49 rooms and suites featuring different design elements and color schemes. No two are the same. Most feature original woodwork and stone finishes, and each feels like light-filled, sumptuous oasis.

In-Room Amenities
Movement-sensitive night lights, adjustable mattresses, bathroom mirrors with integrated TVs, Bang & Olufsen stereos, Nespresso machines, minibars stocked with Swiss chocolates, and excellent, free WiFi are all standard.

Drawbacks
I liked everything, but certain rooms are darker than others. (Request the bright Room 403 for energizing blue details and a Le Corbusier couch.)

Standout Detail
The service here is lovely — a mix of organized excellence and warmth. The staff makes every effort to over-deliver, and if the hotel car is free and waiting, they will happily take you to nearby sights or even to the airport (as was the case when I departed at 5 a.m.). Personalized business cards for your stay are a nice touch.

Checking Out

Neighborhood
The Old Town is a magical part of Zurich — there are no cars or chain stores! (Save one Starbucks that I spotted.) The 15th- and 16th-century buildings, and particularly the churches with their enormous clock faces, make this feel like a blissful, old-fashioned time warp.

What to Do Nearby
For a cultural fix, don’t miss the Kunsthaus with its collection of Giacometti, Munch, Picasso, and Matisse, and the contemporary Kunsthalle gallery. But it is the surrounding streets — and natural beauty — that are most special. St. Peter’s Church, with the largest church clock in Europe, is a one-minute walk from the hotel. The stained glass windows by Marc Chagall at the Fraumünster Church are definitely worth a detour.

Don’t miss the concierge’s recommendations that cover everything from food to nearby walks. One of my favorites is Schwarzenbach, a must for foodie delights of all kinds — global teas, chocolates, and every kind of dried fruit imaginable. Spitzenhaus is more than just a parfumerie; the owners have curated a luxurious mini scent museum that provides an incredible education. Limited Stock is a spare, tasteful design store full of artisanal things from Europe and Japan set in an old blacksmith’s atelier.

Good to Know
This is a walking city, so pack shoes accordingly. If possible, don’t miss a Sunday morning in the Old Town. I had no idea how special this would be.

Plan Your Trip

The airport is about 30 minutes from the hotel in traffic, and the train station is just minutes away. Before leaving the airport, get a ZürichCARD travel and discount pass for access to all public transport, including trams, trolley buses, and trains that run in the most timely Swiss fashion. The pass also covers admission to many museums.

Getting Around
The city is largely free of cars, making it perfect for exploring on foot. Taxis are widely available as well.

Explore More Great Swiss Hotels

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Aman Owner, Vladislav Doronin, On His Eclectic Art

Aman owner Vladislav Doronin has built his art collection through a search for a deeper spiritual and cultural meaning.

Vladislav Doronin at Aman Venice

The founder of Russian real-estate development firm Capital Group and the owner and chairman of Aman, Vladislav Doronin is as passionate about art and design as he is about elevated hospitality. Here, he shares his thoughts on everything from spiritual Asian art to the business of collecting.

What are your earliest memories of art?
Growing up in St Petersburg, I was fortunate to be exposed to one of the world’s most famous collections of art and the second-largest art museum in the world, The Hermitage. It was there I first discovered the Suprematists and the Russian avant-garde and, specifically, works by Kazimir Malevich, El Lissitzky, Nikolay Punin, Vladimir Tatlin, Lyubov Popova, Pavel Filonov and Aleksandra Ekster. I was drawn to their works because of their geometry and almost musical quality. These artists were among the first in my collection.

Are you equally passionate about art, architecture and design? 
For the last decade I have been collecting design pieces alongside contemporary and pop art. I have been particularly drawn to pieces by designers who were originally trained as architects and this is no coincidence as I’ve worked with many prominent architects throughout my 24-year career in real estate.

Tell us about your home designed by Zaha Hadid.
Zaha Hadid and I were very close and spent a lot of time together during the design of my home on the outskirts of Moscow. This Capital Hill Residence is one of the projects I am most proud of and seeing it for the first time was incredibly moving.   

Doronin's residence Capital Hill in Moscow, was designed by Zaha Hadid.

Do you work with an art advisor to build your collections?
I have a number of friends and art consultants who give me advice. Usually I will ask a few informed people their opinions about a work I am interested in, but, ultimately, I trust my instincts. I live with my collection so I need to have a relationship with each work, and I also need to know that it will fit in with the rest of my works.

Tell us about your photography collections and the spaces they fill.
I like Peter Beard and admire the rough, raw, and powerful quality of his work. I also have a collection of works by Hollywood actor and director Dennis Hopper. I have a few portraits of his friends, including Andy Warhol and Ed Ruscha, that were taken in the 1960s.

Are any of the works you own particularly spiritual?
I have spent many years training in the ancient practices of martial arts, yoga, qigong, and Tibetan Buddhism. Through these disciplines, I have studied the flow of energy and have learned to look for art with spiritual and cultural meaning that resonates with me. Traveling to Aman destinations around the world has allowed me to collect many objects of spiritual and martial significance. From my travels to Amankora in Bhutan, a spiritual kingdom with a strong connection to Buddhism, I acquired traditional carved masks, amulets, incense burners and devotional items used in sacred Buddhist ceremonies. I also have prayer beads, prayer wheels and statues given to me by local monks.  

What are the most unique pieces in your collection?
I have been inspired by my trips to Aman Tokyo and Amanemu and have appreciated the intense Japanese disciplines and precision. This exacting approach is evident in their art, culture, architecture, and in the Japanese swords that can take up to a year to forge by hand. I have several of these remarkable, prized weapons in my art collection. Japanese regimented discipline is also evident in the Bonsai tree and I have several of these groomed trees — some more than 100 years old — that I consider living, breathing components of my art collection. 

Do you participate in the art programme for Aman properties? 
We work with artists, galleries, and fairs on a case-by-case basis and I was recently involved with the launch of a Skyspace installation by James Turrell at a villa in Amanzoe in Greece. The sky over the Peloponnese is magical, turning sublime colours over sunrise and sunset and this setting suits his work beautifully.

Is there an artist or architect that that you’re particularly excited about?
I would like to work with Tadao Ando and Santiago Calatrava in the future, and, in terms of art, I am particularly excited about discovering new artists from Japan and China. Calligraphy and ink drawings have been increasingly compelling, so I may add a few of these to my collection.

This article originally appeared in the December 2017 issue of Billionaire, The Celebration. To subscribe contact subs@highend.media

Craig Robins’ dining boltholes

The CEO and president of property development company Dacra meets fashion designers over tuna tartare in Paris and art collectors over dim sum in Hong Kong

Craig Robins at Mandolin | Image: Rose Cromwell

“Everything is so rushed today that it’s important to share meals with colleagues and partners: when work gets integrated with life, everything is enhanced – we’re all more productive. My business focuses on art and design – specifically, developing the Miami Design District with leading brands and restaurants – and this extends to where I choose to entertain architects, designers, lawyers or our leasing team.

A favourite Miami lunch spot is Michael’s Genuine, a foodie mecca where I recently shared a fun meal with Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton, to bring him up to speed on some public art projects. I love its huge umbrellas; you can stay outside even if there’s a tropical shower. Whoever I’m with, whether it’s Pharrell or Riccardo Tisci, I order the stracciatella for sharing – with fresh peaches or tomatoes – and the seasonal stone crab claws.

The sleek MC Kitchen, another regular in the Design District, has a bustling open kitchen and the world’s best truffle pizza; I have one slice – it’s rich – and bring the rest to the office, which goes down well. I recently shared their signature poulet rouge with caramelised onions with cult hairdresser Oribe, while discussing the possibility of a salon in the District. I don’t drink with lunch, but for special dinners here I’ll have a glass of Burly Cabernet.

At Mandolin, one of the city’s most soulful restaurants, everyone bonds in the tavern-like atmosphere. Balenciaga’s CEO Cédric Charbit and I discussed opening its next store here over a family-style meal of grilled octopus and sirloin kefte, further solidifying our relationship.

The creative magic of the District expands exponentially during Design Miami, the fair I founded. One of last year’s most memorable evenings was in a private space above a super-hip spot called OTL. During the week, it’s perfect for laidback morning meetings, brainstorming over quinoa muffins – but that night, we celebrated the Saint Laurent store opening with art dealers and curators including Larry Gagosian and Jeffrey Deitch and an abundant, experimental menu of canapés.

I also do a lot of business outside Miami. The place to be during Art Basel is the bar in Les Trois Rois, which serves excellent cocktails; while nearby Chez Donati – where I recently met Nadja Swarovski to talk about ideas for Design Miami – has excellent fillet of sole Florentine and spaghetti with clams.

In London, The Connaught is perfect for drinks meetings during Frieze. One of my favourite restaurants is The River Café. I had dinner there recently with David Adjaye to discuss exciting future projects over fantastic pasta and seabass.

Paris is important for my work with fashion houses, and visits there mean going to fabulous bistros with Christian Louboutin, who I bonded with on a research trip to South America before he opened his flagship in the District. Our last dinner, at stylish La Société in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, was a wonderful night of tuna tartare and lively conversation.

On my last trip to Hong Kong, where I’m exploring real estate concepts, I went to a fabulous dinner, full of design people, hosted by entrepreneur Alan Lo and his father Victor Lo, chairman and CEO of Gold Peak Industries. It was at the Ilse Crawford-designed Duddell’s, on top of the Shanghai Tang Mansion: the terrace garden setting is gorgeous, and Alan and I chatted about Asian art over excellent dim sum and fried lobster. In Tokyo, for the Pritzker Prize ceremony, I had delicious dinners with collectors at the Park Hyatt. Its properties are outstanding; the views from the restaurant, Kozue, are magnificent – especially accompanied by sea urchin and beef shabu-shabu and debate about the future of architecture, art and design.”

WHERE TO FIND

Chez Donati, St. Johanns-Vorstadt 48, 4056 Basel (+416-1322 0919). The Connaught, Carlos Place, London W1 (020-7499 7070; the-connaught.co.uk). Duddell’s, Level 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong (+852-2525 9191; duddells.co). Kozue, Park Hyatt, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku, Tokyo (+813-5323 3460; tokyo.park.hyatt.co.jp). La Société, 4 Place Saint-Germain des Près, 75006 Paris (+331-5363 6060; restaurantlasociete.com). Les Trois Rois, Blumenrain 8, 4001 Basel (+416-1260 5050; lestroisrois.com). Mandolin Aegean Bistro, 4312 NE 2nd Avenue, Miami (+1305-576 6066; mandolinmiami.com). MC Kitchen, 4141 NE 2nd Avenue #101a, Miami (+1305-456 9948; mckitchenmiami.com). Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, 130 NE 40th Street, Miami (+1305-573 5550; michaelsgenuine.com). OTL, 160 NE 40th Street, Miami (+1786-953 7620; otlmia.com). The River Café, Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, London W6 (020-7386 4200; rivercafe.co.uk).

Vladislav Doronin’s perfect weekend in Miami

The founder of Capital Group counts Aman and the forthcoming Missoni Baia in Miami among his hospitality and residential holdings

“Miami is such a dynamic place and there is always something to do, from tennis tournaments to Art Basel to the annual boat show. But what I love most is the weather: the sun and the outdoor lifestyle really agree with me, and I think it’s a very good, easy‑going place to raise children.

Saturday mornings at my home on Star Island begin at 8am with a cup of hot water, followed by Qigong meditation with the Tibetan monks I’ve been training with for a few years. This time is all about breathing and movement, and it clears my meridians and chakras. Afterwards I’ll go for a run on the beach with my trainer, or a long swim.

Breakfast is around 10am, and includes papaya, porridge, avocados and miso soup, plus eggs or turkey for protein. I’ll drink green tea and maybe some spicy green juice, which stokes my immune system. Saturdays in Miami are about family, and we always have at least six or seven people around the table, including my parents, plus my partner and children.

Much of the day is spent on the water, and if the weather is really nice we’ll head to Bimini or Eleuthera on my Riva Domino for a day in the Bahamas. More often, though, we’ll go by tender to Seaspice Restaurant for lunch overlooking the Miami River. The atmosphere is lively and the food healthy – I particularly like the salads and fresh fish. Or I might take my speedboat, a Wider 42, over to Key Biscayne and kite-surf with my trainer. I absolutely love this sport, so if we go, it’s at least a two-hour commitment.

I love spending time with my new English bulldog, Mozart, and I often walk him in Bayfront Park, which was redesigned by Isamu Noguchi in the 1980s. If the weather isn’t perfect, the afternoon might involve a visit to the Pérez Art Museum or the Bass Museum. I collect contemporary art and love both of these collections. I’ll also drop into the Taschen Store to stock up on art books. In the evening we like to eat out, and one of my favourite places is Casa Tua in Miami Beach. The owner, Miky Grendene, always takes good care of us. We’ll sit out in the lantern-lit back garden and enjoy simple pasta with tomato and basil, or a risotto with truffles. Another place for a night out is Cipriani, where I’ll order sharing plates of baby artichokes and marinated aubergine. The pan-roasted veal with limone is superb too, and I do like a good Tuscan red wine – a Gaia or an Ornellaia. I’m not so much a clubbing guy these days but if I do go out, it might be to the Wall Lounge in the W Hotel. In any case, I am usually in bed by midnight.

Sunday begins the same way, with meditation and exercise – but then I might go for a drive in my 1965 Jaguar E-Type. I love to drive and don’t often get the chance in London, so this is a real treat. I’ll probably end up having lunch with friends at Kyu in the Wynwood district, where the plant-focused food is light and easy. I like this place so much that it influenced our Japanese restaurant Nama, at Amanpuri. Later on, I’ll take the boat out for a cruise around Biscayne Bay and the islands, and do some fishing. You see the most beautiful sunsets from Key Biscayne, where there is less boat traffic and the views are unobstructed. For a drink I like the bar at The Setai –the Asian-inspired atmosphere is very relaxing. Then it’s home for dinner, prepared by my chef Fabrizio, which might include the fish we’ve caught that day. To end the day, I’ll watch a film or a TV series like Billions or Marco Polo in our 4D cinema. Often I fly back to London to arrive on Monday morning, but my Miami weekends give me an amazing energy and after just two days my batteries are fully recharged.”

A long weekend in Philadelphia with Tory Burch

The fashion designer-philanthropist shares dazzling historic monuments, hidden art collections and a few serious foodie havens with Christina Ohly Evans

It used to be that Philadelphia was a very conservative city, and not so much a visiting one – but that has changed. There is now so much on offer: great food, designer hotels, farmers’ markets. And of course there’s so much rich history too; the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, The Franklin Institute Science Museum and the Barnes Foundation are all here. Basically the city is the birthplace of our democracy, so regardless of a person’s political views, after last year’s presidential election it’s more relevant, and I’d say interesting, than ever.

I encourage friends to visit even just for the day, since Philadelphia is only a little over an hour by train from New York. But there are great hotels to choose from, many with unexpected, nice design or tech touches. The Rittenhouse overlooks Rittenhouse Square and has an always-elegant ambience, with large suites refurbished by Alexandra Champalimaud – the palette of bright colours against rich, dark walls is so chic, and there’s a lovely leafy central courtyard. Another boutique offering is the Roost Apartment Hotel, designed by Morris Adjmi – he also did the very cool Wythe Hotel, in Brooklyn – which has contemporary furnishings by Patricia Urquiola and Roll & Hill, among others. Rittenhouse 1715 is smaller and more traditional, in a Georgian-style carriage house from the early 1900s, and its rooms are airy and stylish. It’s just a three-storey building set on a very quiet residential street, so it feels like a nice escape.

An indoor display in the Exhibition Hall at Longwood Gardens | Image: Alamy

So many neighbourhoods have come up over the past few years. One of the best to explore is Fairmount, where the Barnes Foundation is located. The Barnes is very near to my heart; the collections of post-impressionist and modern paintings, as well as Native American ceramics, textiles and jewellery, are among the finest in the world. The new building was designed by Tod Williams and Billie Tsien, and it respects the history of founder Albert Barnes’ original museum vision, but puts the art centre stage in light-filled gallery spaces. And the Barnes Foundation Arboretum, in suburban Merion, is well worth a visit for the beautiful gardens full of rare plants and trees. The monkey puzzle tree in particular is extraordinary – all twisted limbs and thorny leaves.

Fairmount is home to other world-class museums as well. There’s the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the Rodin Museum – the latter has one of the largest collections of the artist’s work outside Paris. But a lesser‑known gem is the Fabric Workshop and Museum, with incredible contemporary art by Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor and Carrie Mae Weems, among so many others, and it offers a programme of performance art and workshops for all ages.

The Fishtown neighbourhood is another must; this formerly dodgy area is now the Williamsburg of Philly, and it’s perfect for wandering. You can pick up a coffee from La Colombe, one of the city’s best roasters, before visiting the indie, old-school Philadelphia Record Exchange for any kind of music you can possibly think of. Pizzeria Beddia is a real Fishtown highlight; it has been deemed the best pizza in America by Bon Appétit magazine. Joe Beddia makes just 40 “pies” a day, and there’s no place to sit, so you have to get there very early to get served. The pizza arrabbiata is unbelievable. Once you’re fed, Jinxed Philadelphia is an incredible variety store where almost all the pieces are unique – everything from shiny metal housewares to vintage cameras to antique maps.Another Fishtown draw is Kensington Quarters, an industrial warehouse with a popular great meat-centric restaurant and butchery classes, and Little Baby’s Ice Cream, where the weird but interesting flavours – Cucumber Dill, Chocolate Salt Malt – are all delicious. 

No trip to Philly is complete without one of the city’s famous cheese steaks. This local delicacy is the subject of debate; some people like Jim’s Steaks, some like Pat’s King of Steaks. I’ll take either, but the whole cheese steak thing is an experience, so load up with hot peppers and just enjoy. At the sprawling Reading Terminal Market, a historic farmers’ market that opened in 1892, you can find everything from traditional pretzels, made by the Amish, to beautiful, freshly cut flowers. 

An all-American experience awaits in the Fishtown district with its shops, restaurants and bars | Image: Alamy

Philadelphia is, of course, known for its place in US history, and Independence Hall, which was where the Declaration of Independence was signed, is a must. The Liberty Bell – cast in London and brought to the US, where it immediately cracked – is another. Benjamin Franklin is buried at Christ Church, and people throw pennies at his grave – a symbol of good luck and a nod to his “a penny saved is a penny earned” saying – though this ritual has caused some damage over time, so it’s a little bit frowned upon now.

Sporting life is a big part of Philadelphia, and Boathouse Row on the Schuylkill River is a beautiful place to watch the rowers passing by, while there are all sorts of seasonal events on offer – the Radnor Hunt, the Dad Vail Regatta and the Philadelphia Marathon – that draw crowds from all over the world. As a child, I often went to watch the Phillies baseball and Eagles football games with my brothers, and at these events you’re always assured of an enthusiastic crowd. 

Jim’s Steaks serves up the city’s famous cheese steaks

The Old City area is full of quaint Federal and Georgian-style buildings, so a stroll here is well worth it for the architecture alone. But shoppers won’t be disappointed with the excellent vintage shops and indie boutiques along North Third Street, where Vagabond is one of the best for clothing by emerging designers – look out for Ajaie Alaie and UZINC, from Brooklyn – and also unique decorative things for the home. There is also Antique Row on Pine Street for a mix of old and new stores, galleries and cafés.

There are all sorts of treasures outside the city as well, not least some world-class gardens. I’d highly recommend a trip to Longwood Gardens, which are beautiful year round, but especially during the holidays. One of the largest parks in Philadelphia, Fairmount, is on the outskirts of town; it has hiking and biking trails, as well as a Japanese house and garden, called Shofusu, that is spectacularly lovely. If you go here, plan for a Sunday brunch at the Valley Green Inn, where the French toast is legendary. 

The Rittenhouse is a luxury boutique hotel in the heart of the city

Philadelphia’s Main Line – the western suburbs that were built along the main line of the Pennsylvania Railroad – is no longer a series of sleepy communities; some of the most exciting restaurants and shops are here. B2 Bluefin Sushi, in Bala Cynwyd, is one of the best sushi restaurants I’ve eaten at anywhere; and the very chic boutique Kirna Zabête is a great addition to Bryn Mawr. This offshoot of the popular New York store of the same name is fantastic for fashion finds, from Loewe to Proenza Schouler. 

There is no bad time of year to visit Philadelphia, though I prefer the city in the spring and autumn when the gardens are in bloom, and it isn’t so hot and humid. The Fringe Festival in September is an annual highlight – a citywide celebration of art, dance and theatre. For visitors in July, the fireworks over the Philadelphia Museum of Art offer a real dose of Americana. Regardless of the season, there is really something for everyone. I love that Philadelphia has become more accessible and more diverse, and that the food scene is world-class – but that it still feels like home.