US Road Trips: The Northeast

The quintessential city escape: seaside retreats, rolling hills, secluded lakes, beachy hangouts, sunset beers. Pack up and hit the highway with this list of weekend road trip destinations in the northeast United States. Are we there yet?

Jump to: Connecticut | Maine | Maryland | Massachusetts | New York | Rhode Island | Vermont

Photo courtesy of Privet House.

Head to Southport/Westport

If you're in the mood for low-key antiquing and the beach. The Delmar Hotel and Artisan restaurant are around the corner from what is, quite possibly, the sweetest, tiniest town. Terrain, Anthropologie's stunning offshoot (greenhouse, garden center, cafe), has a packed summer lineup of classes and events.
Route to take: Straight shot on I-95, 90 minutes from Manhattan.
Good to know: The Gray Goose Cafe is adorable for lunch.

Head to Greenwich

If you're in the mood for fresh air and fancy shopping. Hit "The Ave" for boutiques like Privet House. Enjoy a leisurely lunch at local favorite Meli Melo, where specialties include French onion soup and freshly squeezed OJ. If you're still around for dinner, stroll down to L'Escale for harborside dining and specialty cocktails named for the seven heavenly virtues.
Route to take: One hour by car from New York City via I-95.
Good to know: The Drawing Room serves hand-blended teas and delicious scones with clotted cream. Their adjacent shop is the place to buy decorative pillows and scented candles. Stop off in Port Chester for a pizza margarita at Mario Batali's Tarry Lodge and freshly baked bread and cured meats from the market.

Head to Washington

If you’re in the mood for a classic, picturesque New England town. Dine by the open hearth fire at the Mayflower Inn, pick up hot cross buns and Irish soda bread from The Pantry, or take a picnic and hike the beautiful trails along the Shepaug River in Steep Rock Reserve.
Route to take: A two-hour jaunt from NYC.
Good to know: Averill Farm has been family-run since 1746. Go in the fall for apple picking, homemade pies, and old-fashioned farm fun.
Read more on Fathom: New England Classic: A Design Duo's Favorites in Washington Connecticut

MAINE

Photo courtesy of White Barn Inn.

Head to Acadia National Park

If you’re in the mood for coastal scenery at its finest. Bike the national park's 45 miles of carriage roads, hike the diverse terrain, and watch the sunrise from atop Cadillac Mountain. Stay at charming and kitsch-free West Street Hotel in Bar Harbor and get popovers fresh from the oven at Jordan Pond House before gorging yourself on lobster rolls and ice cream.
Route to take: Stop along the park’s 27-mile scenic route at Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Jordan Pond, and Cadillac Mountain.
Good to know: For late night bites and weekly karaoke, head to Little A's Sports Bar.
Read more on Fathom: Finding Arcadia in Acadia

Head to Rockland

If you're in the mood for farm-fresh food without the Boston or New York price tag. Make a reservation at Primo and enjoy a creative menu that uses produce and animals raised on the property.
Route to take: Route 1 affords beautiful coastal scenery, complete with waves crashing into rocky cliffsides and charming lighthouses.
Good to know: The Farnsworth Art Museum is also located in Rockland, giving you a good dose of culture along with a fantastic meal.

Head Down the Coast of Maine

If you're in the mood for by-the-book prep, nature adventures, and rural farm areas.
Route to take: Skip around from Camden to Rockport to Kennebunkport to Norway.
Good to know: Stay at the Country Inn or The White Barn Inn; stock up on L.L. Bean; let Ducktrap Kayak handle your paddling details.
Read more on Fathom: Little Black Book for Coastal Maine

MARYLAND

Photo courtesy of Inn at Perry Cabin.

Head to the Chesapeake Coast

If you're in the mood for a nautical state of mind. Start by gazing at the sailboats from your bedroom window at Inn at Perry Cabin. Get dirty with buckets of peel-and-eat shrimp poured onto tables covered in brown paper by day; clean up for the five-course dinner menu from a Per Se alum at Bartlett Pear Inn.
Route to take: Route 301 is a pleasant alternative to the NJ Turnpike and I-95.
Good to know: The NYT has a list of finger-licking crab shacks that's worth a gander.

MASSACHUSETTS

Photo by Todd Beeby.

Head to the Berkshires

If you're in the mood for dance, theater, yoga, Shakespeare, and skinny dipping with mountain as the backdrop.
Route to take: Saw Mill from NYC; Mohawk Trail into North Adams from Boston.
Good to know: Jacob's Pillow, Mass MoCA, Kripalu, and Canyon Ranch are all here.
Read more on Fathom: Berkshires Hot List and Breathing Lessons in the Berkshires

Head to Nantucket

If you're in the mood for a new flavor profile on one the coast's most historic islands. Do Provisions for brunch, Ventuno for dinner, and Brotherhood of Thieves for a sunset beer. Shack up at White Elephant or Wauwinet.
Route to take: JetBlue flies to the island during summer months.
Good to know: Take the pooch. There's a lot of outdoor living, dog-friendly hotels, and off-leash beaches.

NEW YORK

Photo courtesy of The Arnold.

Head to Barryville

If you're in the mood for locavore eating, sustainable shopping, patronizing family businesses. Stay at Hillside Schoolhouse, a two-bedroom charmer nestled in the woods of Sullivan County. Head to Benji & Jake's for cold beers and wood-fired pizza on the upstairs deck overlooking Kauneonga Lake. Pick up locally sourced pantry items from modern general store River Market or the Barryville Farmers Market (on Saturdays during the summer). Rent an inner tube and take a ride along Skinner's Falls. Follow with a long and lazy dinner at The Heron.
Route to take: Route 97 through Barryville has crazy winding roads, scenic overlooks along the Delaware River, and habitats for birds of prey (once a dirt road referred to as the Hawk's Nest).
Good to know: Take a cue from owner Bronson Bigelow, who quit his corporate job to open the inn and make all the furniture in it. Or just shop his collection of upcycled antiques, vintage industrial objects, and restored ice boxes.

Head to Hudson

If you're in the mood for juxtaposing well-worn Victorian charm with big city comforts and a bit of edginess. Stay at Inn at Hudson, drink a perfectly pulled espresso at Swallow, check out the mini food truck emporium on Warren Street, have killer (local, sustainable, homemade) burger with the works at the retro-fitted '50s diner Grazin', and finish off with a nightcap and live show at Helsinki.
Route to take: Ride Amtrak right into town; zip up from NYC in a car on 87.
Good to know: Check the schedule for happenings at the cathedral-like Basilica Hudson, an old glue factory that's been turned into a performing arts space.
Read more on Fathom: The Best of City and Country Rolled Into One Little Weekend in Hudson, New York

Head to Ithaca

If you're in the mood for a healthy dose of counter-culturalism and hippie goodness. The Argos Inn, a LEED-certified 10-room inn meticulously renovated with heated stone slab floors, velvet drapes, and turn-of-the-century Bergere chairs. It's a ten-minute walk from your velvet-flocked suite to the iconic Moosewood restaurant, which turned all-natural cooking and '70s-era co-operative business ideals into a full-fledge vegetarian kitchen collective. Obviously, pick up a cookbook. Morning coffees can and should be had at the original Gimme! Coffee (now a Brooklyn mainstay). Besides swimming holes and architectural tours of nearby Cornell campus (I.M. Pei! Koolhaus! Richard Meier!), you're spitting distance from the Finger Lakes wine country.
Route to take: Make it scenic and curve up the Catskill Mountains. Make a sweet rest stop for a few scoops of ice cream made from Cornell's own dairy farm.
Read more on Fathom: This Is Where Locavore Was Born

Head to Livingston Manor

If you're in the mood for a monastic environment. Book a weekend at Dai Bosatsu Zendo, a Japanese Buddhist sanctuary where you can workshop the basics of being — like breathing and being quiet.
Route to take: The Palisades (from NYC) are soothing and scenic.
Good to know: No prior Zen practice necessary. And if you want your alone time with somebody, you can rent a small cottage on the premises.

Head to Montauk

If you're in the mood for an easy, breezy beach weekend. Ruschmeyer's has a retro camp vibe, but the best way to hang is by renting a little something you can call home.
Route to take: Drive very early in the morning or very late at night on 495 to Sunrise Highway to the very end of Montauk Highway (avoid traffic by using GPS to navigate back roads).
Good to know: BYOB seafood shack Duryea's Lobster Deck and Fishbar on the Lake are musts.
Read more on Fathom: Hamptons Guide and Montauk Master Plan

Head to the North Fork

If you're in the mood for large plots of farmland, farmstands, U-picks, and wineries. Book at slow-food hang North Fork Table and Inn.
Route to take: Tiny town centers dot the Main Road (Route 25) and Sound Avenue (Route 48).
Good to know: The Custer Observatory is open every Saturday from dusk to midnight for stargazing.
While in the area: see our North Fork hit list.

Head to Phoenicia

If you're in the mood for agritourism with a Dutch design bent. Try Stony Creek Farm in Walton, where fancy tents with wood-burning stoves are nestled on a working farm. Nightly harvests become dinner.
Route to take: Take 87 and stop in for a tour of Tuthilltown Spirits, the distillery where Hudson Baby Bourbon is made.
Good to know: The culinary cognoscenti of NYC get their prime cuts from Fleisher's Meats; you can pick up breakfast sausages at their full-service butcher shop.
Read more on Fathom: Catskills Hit List

Head to Shandelee

If you're in the mood for hiking, biking, foraging, and dozing off in the sun. The Arnold House, an adorably Instagrammable 10-room inn (Sferra linens, Pendelton blankets, cork floors), is the perfect setting for your country retreat. Being the proper hosts that they are, the Foster family proprietors offer plenty of fun activities (ice fishing in the winter, ramp foraging in the spring, ravioli making at nearby Northern Farmhouse Pasta).
Route to take: Wind through the Palisades and continue northwest from NYC.
Good to know: If you didn't bring your own pooch (the hotel provides dog beds, water bowls, housemade treats), spend some time cuddling with Adelaide, the English Bulldog.

Head to West Kill

If you're in the mood for the simple Catskill pleasures. Star at the Spruceton Inn, a Catskills "bed & bar" with mountain views. Get your pancakes stacked at Phoenicia Diner. Work off the carbs with a picturesque hike to Diamond Notch Falls, a serious hike up Overlook Mountain, or, come winter, some ski tubing on Plattekill Mountain. Dine on savory pies at Table on Ten. Ride Icelandic horses on quiet trails. Or, back at the inn, just play some bocce and make some snacks in your own kitchenette or on the grill.
Route to take: Hit the Palisades and roll through Woodstock. No wheels? Coordinate a pick-up with your guest house after catching the Trailways bus from Port Authority.
Good to know: Leave plenty of time to get home so that you can stop for antiques and farmstand souvenirs: raw milk and gouda from Byebrook Farm; old thingamabobs from Lyon Mountain Blue Barn Antiques; farmy furniture at Wood Bull antiques; honey and grass-fed meats from Stone & Thistle.
Read more on Fathom: Where to Go from NYC, the Catskills Checklist

Head to Lake Placid

If you’re in the mood for adult summer camp in the Adirondacks. Check out Wild Walk, the “High Line of the Forest,” a museum experience suspended in the treetops of Tupper Lake. Canoe or kayak down the Raquette River, and end the day with a good meal and a better cocktail at Liquids and Solids.
Route to take: Hit the Taconic Parkway from New York City.
Good to know: Stay at Whiteface Lodge for a well-appointed resort experience, or camp near Lake Placid, Saranac Lake, or Tupper Lake for a real back-to-nature experience.
Read more on Fathom: A Walk in the Woods Above NY’s Adirondacks

RHODE ISLAND

Photo courtesy of The Ocean House.

Head to Watch Hill/Weekapaug

If you're in the mood for a gorgeous beach escape with excellent cuisine to match. The recently revamped Weekapaug Inn where sail boats, fishing gear, and a discreet, black-bottomed pool are all at your disposal. A meal of locally caught lobster, Matunuck oysters, and native beets is as memorable as the sunsets overlooking bucolic Quonochontaug Pond.
Route to take: Head south on the I-95. On the way back to civilization, stock up on freshly baked chocolate chunk and molasses cookies at gourmet emporium The Cooked Goose.
Good to know: Killer Swedish massages at Relais & Chateaux sister property The Ocean House are a Zen bonus.
Read more on Fathom: Summer with the Kids in Watch Hill

VERMONT

Photo courtesy of Woodstock Inn.

Head to Woodstock

If you're in the mood for quintessential Americana combined with a new, LEED-certified spa. Book the grand Woodstock Inn in New England's most picture-postcard-perfect town. They have a serene spa and delicious farm-to-table cuisine in its casual Red Rooster restaurant. Head across the quaint village green outside your front door and make stops at the old-school Gillingham's general store and Yankee Bookshop before a lovely dinner-a-deux at The Prince and The Pauper, a town institution.
Route to take: The Taconic Parkway from NYC. It might be a slightly longer route, but the scenery — and a stop at the old-school Millbrook Diner (3266 Franklin Ave.; +1-845-677-5319) — makes it worth it.
Good to know: Do not skip town without a stop for black raspberry ice cream cones at the White Cottage Snack Bar. Open only in summer, this low-key spot is worth a serious, deep-fried detour.

Head to Burlington

If you’re in the mood for getting back in touch with nature and ending the day with a fantastic craft beer. Stay at eco-friendly Hotel Vermont and dine next door at Chef Eric Warnstedt’s revered restaurant Hen of the Wood. Do some boutique shopping on Church Street, or head down the hill to Lake Champlain for lakeside activites in the summer and winter.
Route to take: On your way into the city, stop at Shelburne Farms, a nonprofit farm focused on sustainability education, for tours of their historic barns, tons of scenic walking trails, and classic Vermont foodstuffs from the farm store.
Good to know: August First Bakery may not allow laptops, but they have the best bread downtown.
Read more on Fathom: It’s All Small Town Good Vibes in Burlington, Vermont

MORE FATHOM-APPROVED GETAWAYS

Have you seen our list of the Most Romantic Hotels in The Northeast?

Special thanks to contributors Devorah Klein Lev-Tov, Christina Ohly, and Ilaria Urbinati.

A Kid-Centric Weekend in the Windy City

Balancing kid-friendly fancies with mature tastes is the key to any tantrum-free family getaway. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly tackled the task with her daughter during a weekend in Chicago. Here's what she did.

CHICAGO – It had easily been ten years since my last non-work trip to Chicago, and with a short weekend window presenting itself, my eleven-year-old daughter Kate and I decided to head to the Windy City for hefty doses of architecture, culture, relaxation, great food, and visits with friends. The manageable city on the shores of Lake Michigan didn't disappoint, and we came away feeling relaxed, rejuvenated, and extremely well fed.

DAY ONE: THE LOOP, THE MAGNIFICENT MILE, AND MORE

With less than 36 hours, we hit the ground running and went straight for Millennium Park for the famed Anish Kapoor sculpture Cloud Gate, which locals refer to as "The Bean." The beautiful, mirrored droplet inspired by liquid mercury is wonderful for all ages and reflects the surrounding skyline and architecture to dazzling effect. A twelve-foot high arch beneath the piece makes for fun explorating. We could easily have spent half the day exploring Millennium Park's Crown Fountain, Lurie Garden, and the Frank Gehry-designed BP Bridge.

But we were off to Art Institute of Chicago to marvel at the permanent collections. We stopped for lunch in the Renzo Piano-designed wing at Terzo Piano — a minimalist, pure white space with a menu of mezzes, flatbreads, and creative salads. Perfect museum fare. Well fed, we went back down Michigan Avenue, stopping at various Walgreen's along the way. Yes, really. The concept of the "drugstore" takes on a whole new meaning in Chicago, and at select branches (like the one in the iconic Wrigley Building), we found fresh sushi (complete with on-site chef!), pricey liquor, and treasures that made for one-stop shopping in a gilt-trimmed setting.

Smiles for the cupcake experience.

The restaurant, and its portions, are massive. Photo courtesy of Hugo's Frog Bar.

After we took the obligatory photos on the Chicago River bridge, we pushed on to the shopping area that typifies the area they call "Gold Coast" for good reason. Magnificent Mile is packed with big-ticket designer boutiques (Prada, Gucci, Hermes), and the adjoining streets have more accessible spots like Sprinkles Cupcakes on East Walton Street. For the uninitiated, this is a confectionary concept that features a cupcake ATM that is restocked 24 hours a day with a variety of insanely sweet treats for people. And dogs, too. This was, by far, the highlight of Chicago, as far as Kate was concerned.

Refueled once again, we scouted other restaurants like Jellyfish (inventive sushi in a glass atrium), Carmine's (enormous portions of Italian red-sauce classics), and Hugo's Frog Bar (terrible name; excellent seafood). Hugo's is a fun, nautically themed concept for parents and kids alike. They serve huge plates of shrimp cocktail, planked Lake Superior whitefish, and beautiful charbroiled burgers. Think BIG!

After a lot of walking, eating, and drinking (we found coffee and tea shops on virtually every corner, which was a nice way to combat Chicago's notorious chill), we went back to The Peninsula Hotel to relax in the spa. I'm not usually one for massages and treatments, but I'd heard wonderful things about their Bamboo Harmonizer massage and decided to give it a whirl. The treatment is designed to suck away negative energy and stimulate the flow of positive qi energy. (Yes, please!) It was the most thoroughly relaxing 90 minutes I've ever experienced. Maybe it was the combination of warm bamboo rods being rolled all over my tired legs and feet or the gentle clacking sound of the wood, but I fell asleep hard and awoke completely reinvigorated. Do carve out time for this one.

After prying ourselves from the hotel, we went to Bistronomic, a bustling bistro just around the corner, for dinner. Our was a multi-generational group, and everyone found something on the menu. Ddelicious terrines of tuna tartare, garlicky escargot, and crispy duck confit — all French classics infused with modern flair. A huge Baked Alaska (keeping it old-school) made for the perfect ending to a memorable meal and a packed day.

Obscenely gooey delicious. Photo courtesy of Bistronomic.

DAY TWO: PANCAKES, DAVID BOWIE, AND A KICK-ASS AQUARIUM

Another winner in the big food category is Pancake House, a downtown breakfast staple that serves excellent omelets in a traditional, diner ambience. From here, we went to Museum of Contemporary Art to see the exhibit "David Bowie Is." While this may not be the most kid-friendly content (what with all the coke spoons, sex, and colorful language), the highly interactive show features music, film footage, and outlandish costumes, including Ziggy Stardust bodysuits and Alexander McQueen coats. This was the show's only North American stop, and it was so worth a detour. (Lady Gaga wouldn't be Gaga without the influence of Bowie.) MCA's well-stocked gift shop sells everything from Union Jack throws and pillows to Andromeda iPhone covers to "Let's Dance" earrings.

A psychedelic sea creature dance party. Photo by Cwillbounds / Flickr.

After circling back to the hotel to pick up our complimentary Mini Cooper (this can be arranged in advance and was second only to Sprinkles Cupcakes in my daughter's "cool" view), we headed to Shedd Aquarium on the other side of town. As it's one of the largest aquariums in the world, you'll want to plan your visit in advance. I highly recommend the technicolor "Jellies" exhibit (on view until January 2015) because those amorphous creatures are pretty entrancing.

In the name of research, we stopped by Foodlife in Water Tower Place, a place that takes the food court concept to an entirely new level. Foodlife is a collection of casual dining concepts within one main, bustling space. Separate kitchens turn out excellent, fresh food that ranges from sushi and inventive salads to signature Chicago deep-dish pizza. Dedicated dessert areas serving custom-made crepes were the culinary highlight for the younger members of our entourage. And if I'm being honest, this is my favorite way to eat too — a bit of this, a bit of that.

Step inside a captured German U-boat. Photo by Abadonmi01 / Flickr.

If time or weather had allowed, I would have taken a Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise because it's the best way to learn about the city's rich architectural history. My next trip will also include a stop at Museum of Science and Industry to see its U-505 German submarine from World War II, Omnimax Theatre, and mirror mazes.

Our last stop, Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse, didn't disappoint for early dinner. This is exactly the kind of food and atmosphere I expect from Chicago: enormous steaks, wedge salads loaded with bacon and blue cheese, and Bookbinder's soup in a warm, wood-paneled setting. The completely unpretentious meal was the perfect end to our whirlwind weekend. We made our way to the airport feeling sated in every way.

The chocolate bar and the Shanghai Terrace. Photos courtesy of Peninsula Hotel.

WHERE TO STAY

The Peninsula in the heart of downtown Chicago tops my list. This particular outpost just gets kids/tweens/teens. We were greeted at 9 p.m. by a dessert bar in the main dining room that was Willy Wonka-esque in every way. Vats of candies, make-your-own sundae bars, a waffle station, and chocolate bon-bons all made for the perfect, warm Midwest welcome.

Our spacious room was no less impressive, with its Fili D'oro linens, endless amenities (stuffed animals, Oscar de La Renta creams, fresh fruit platters), and sweeping views of Water Tower Park and the lake in the distance. Highlights included a sprawling swimming pool — complete with glorious, twenty-foot windows and plush robes — a Zen spa, and Shanghai Terrace, the hotel's dim sum hotspot that's long on shrimp dumplings and has a red lacquer vibe. Add in a small skating rink that's open during the winter months, and this spot is pretty much kid nirvana.

Just down the street you'll find the relatively new Thompson Hotel, a Tara Bernerd-designed gem that features lots of warm wood, modernist light fixtures, and living walls at every turn. In-house restaurant Nico Osteria is worth a stop for lunch or dinner and serves some of the best crudo and housemade taglioni — not to mention biscotti and maple gelati — that I've tasted anywhere (Italy included).

Also worth mentioning: Park Hyatt, Ritz Carlton Chicago (now managed by Four Seasons), and a new Waldorf Astoria that offers spacious rooms and suites, many of which are specifically designed to accommodate families. All of these hotels are perfectly positioned for exploring the stylish Gold Coast area, nearby Michigan Avenue, and the many great restaurants located within a five-block radius.

HOW TO GET THERE

The numerous flight options in and out of Chicago O'Hare International Airport (ORD) make traveling with kids and changing plans at a moment's notice (my forte) easy and manageable. While Chicago is a United Airlines hub, I recommend American Airlines for Terminal 3's food offerings alone. Celebrated chef Rick Bayless' Tortas Frontera — an incredible restaurant specializing in warm, open-faced sandwiches of smoked bacon and tres queso — makes a long layover almost worth it.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Chicago, One Neighborhood at a Time
Chicago: How to Eat Like a Local
Two Bars, One Big Appetite

South Africa's Luxe and Low-Key Tswalu Redefines the Safari

Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.

KALAHARI DESERT, South Africa – From the moment I arrived at the Johannesburg airport for the flight to Tswalu, a truly unique game reserve located in the southern part of the Kalahari Desert, I knew this one was going to be different. My family and I boarded their luxurious Pilatus plane for the one-and-a-half hour hop to Tswalu's dedicated airstrip, warmly welcomed and escorted to a thatched roof terminal, and were greeted with thousands of chirping sociable weaver birds. The eco-adventure had begun!

What sets Tswalu apart is not so much its red sand dunes and sprawling grasslands — though those certainly make for spectacular viewing — but the completely relaxed pace and tasteful motse (the local Tswana word for "village") that create a safari unlike any other I've experienced. After checking into one of the eight spacious legae — "little houses" — you'll have to pry yourself from your sun terrace in order to take in the game which you've theoretically come to see. No detail has been overlooked, and while the suites are utterly simple (think minimalist contemporary furnishings mixed with traditional African baskets and art) the details — outdoor showers and big, open fireplaces — make them special.

The Motse deck.

Tswalu offers a bespoke safari experience. Gone are the 5 a.m. wake-up calls (unless you want them), endless off-schedule meals, and the quest for the Big Five. Tswalu — a thousand-square-kilometer reserve that is a labor of love for the Oppenheimer family — is all about conservation and land use, as well as the pursuit of animals that are not easily found elsewhere. Enormous black-maned Kalahari lions dazzle. So do families of frolicking meerkats, elegant giraffes strolling across open plains, and the elusive aardvark. It is also a birder's paradise, with over two hundred rare species readily on view. There is no sense of imminent danger here and that makes Tswalu what I refer to as "safari lite": you will constantly see, do, and learn, but without the threat of being some animal's next meal.

A horseback safari.

The guides and trackers are top-notch ecologists who lead safaris in a Land Rover, on horseback, or even on foot so that you can get up close to nature. Tracking takes on new meaning here. Our guide was happy to alight from the vehicle, rifle in hand, and bushwhack until he found prides of lions and desert black rhinos languishing in the mid-day sun. Other highlights included sleeping under the stars, eating a delicious lunch by the motse pool, and receiving authentic spa treatments that incorporate indigenous red dune sand, desert minerals, and botanical fibres. Add to this the absence of malaria and a warm community comprised of 142 staff members (plus a peek into their eco-friendly housing, preschool, dedicated health clinic, and adult literacy programmes) and you get a real sense of how Tswalu is transforming this massive area, in terms of both environmental conservation and education.

With only twenty guests at a time, Tswalu feels more like an intimate, low-key house party than a Relais & Chateaux nestled at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. Its stated mission is "to restore the Kalahari to itself"; and I left this magical place feeling as though I'd been restored to myself as well.

Photo by Christina Ohly.

FIND IT

Tswalu Kalahari
+27-0-53-781-9331
res@tswalu.com

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Losing My Virginity on Safari
Uganda on Safari: The Pearl of Africa
Debrief: Bruce Bromberg in South Africa

Finding Peace in Porto Ercole, Italy

Just off the Tuscan coastline equidistant to Rome and Florence lies Monte Argentario, a bizarrely-shaped peninsula connected to the mainland by three narrow strips of land. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly and her family checked into Il Pellicano, a posh hotel in Porto Ercole on the southern end of the island.

There are a few places left on earth where genocide, the crumbling euro, and any sort of reality simply cease to exist. Il Pellicano, a luxurious yet laid back bolthole on Italy's Tuscan coast, is one such place. It's personal and cool, which makes it endearing. And it's a little shabby chic, which means there definitely won't be rappers or Russian oligarchs occupying the next beach chair.

My family and I recently spent a few languid days of sun, spa, and signature jumbo club sandwiches delivered poolside. Dolce vita indeed.

WHAT TO DO

Not too much. This is Italy, after all, where the stars of a "big" day are your iconic yellow-and-white pool lounger and copious amounts of the hotel's freshly squeezed succhi di frutta (apricot, peach, and blueberry varieties are excellent).

This is the place to quietly read, reflect, and play the odd game of tennis or backgammon. The most strenuous decision you'll encounter is whether to take a day trip on Pellicano's elegant wooden boat, Riva (so Med!), from the private, cliff-side dock or whether to order local langoustines for lunch.

Despite its price point (25 euros for a sandwich), Il Pellicano feels small, chic, and casual, with a library, DVDs, tennis rackets, and ping pong paddles all for communal use.

Definitely take it off campus at least once to explore nearby towns like Pitigliano, where you'll find Etruscan ruins and typical Tuscan trattorias. And Sovana, a medieval village with a wonderful palazzo and picturesque pizzas. Kids will love Il Giardino dei Tarocchi ("Tarot Garden"), Niki de Saint Phalle's brightly-colored sculptural park. Natural Park of Maremma is a wonderful place to see wildlife and explore the area on horseback.

MANGIARE BENE

Food is, naturally, a major focus of any Italian day, and the options here will not disappoint. Everything is delicious and locally sourced: the enormous breakfast served on an idyllic terrace, lunch al fresco at the Tuscan PelliGrill, and lavish, two-Michelin-starred Il Pellicano Ristorante. What this place really has going for it is that they serve food that you really want to eat — gazpacho, insalata caprese, and spaghetti alla chitarra ai frutti di mare (seafood galore) — and not overdone, complicated dishes.

That said, when the craving for a plain, wood-fired pizza strikes, you won't find it here. This is when you head into town for dinner on the charming Porto Ercole harbor, where you'll find a bustling, yet low-key nightlife that is focused on families wandering the piers and eating in outdoor trattorias. The best among these are Gambero Rosso and La Lampara (Lungo Mare Andrea Doria, 68; +39-0564-833024), where you'll eat the homemade pastas, line-caught seabass, and crispy pizzas that inspired your trip in the first place.

DON'T MISS

The chairs at the water's edge at Il Pellicano afford views of the deep, blue sea with majestic islands dotted across the horizon. This is the perfect place to watch scantily clad Europeans slather themselves in oil, light the occasional cigarette, and gesticulate wildly as they speak many different languages. Two days, and you'll feel completely removed from any worries you may have had going in.

The spa and gift shop are also pretty wonderful at Il Pellicano. The carefully curated store has Eres bathing suits, Anya Hindmarch bags with Porto Ercole imagery, and perfectly floaty sarongs that play well in this part of the world. This being Italy, the entire gym is yours to use — even at peak hours — which is a nice touch at such a small resort. Luxurious (if wildly expensive) massages and pedicures are also available with minimal advance notice.

If ever there were a place to sip tropical cocktails, it's at All'Aperto Bar, conveniently located between the pool and the main house. Watch dusk give way to starry skies with a summer Bellini (and at 23 Euros per, you might want just one) and raise a glass to your good fortune.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

There are a variety of room types at Il Pellicano. None work particularly well for families as they do not inter-connect. Then again, this place doesn't have kid-friendly written all over it any way, which I mean in the best possible way.

If you're looking for value for money, get a garden view room, which has a pleasant terrace and views of the tennis court or surrounding mountain landscape. Stunning rooms with sea views will more than triple the price but are ideal for special, secluded stays.

The drinks and snacks in the mini bar are free — though not much else is. Bring a bottle of water or an aranciata with you to the pool, and you'll save approximately 9 euros a pop.

GETTING THERE

Fly: One of the selling points of Porto Ercole — and the Maremma area of Tuscany in general — is its ease of execution on the travel front. Fly to Rome or Florence and you're gazing out over the sea in just under two hours.

Drive: The resort is on a cliff and it's not near much. You'll absolutely need to rent a car to get to there and to explore the small towns.

FIND IT

Il Pellicano
Località Sbarcatello 
58019 Porto Ercole 
Grosseto, Italy
+39-0564-858111
reservations@pellicanohotels.com 

South Africa's Luxe and Low-Key Tswalu Redefines the Safari

Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.

KALAHARI DESERT, South Africa – From the moment I arrived at the Johannesburg airport for the flight to Tswalu, a truly unique game reserve located in the southern part of the Kalahari Desert, I knew this one was going to be different. My family and I boarded their luxurious Pilatus plane for the one-and-a-half hour hop to Tswalu's dedicated airstrip, warmly welcomed and escorted to a thatched roof terminal, and were greeted with thousands of chirping sociable weaver birds. The eco-adventure had begun!

What sets Tswalu apart is not so much its red sand dunes and sprawling grasslands — though those certainly make for spectacular viewing — but the completely relaxed pace and tasteful motse (the local Tswana word for "village") that create a safari unlike any other I've experienced. After checking into one of the eight spacious legae — "little houses" — you'll have to pry yourself from your sun terrace in order to take in the game which you've theoretically come to see. No detail has been overlooked, and while the suites are utterly simple (think minimalist contemporary furnishings mixed with traditional African baskets and art) the details — outdoor showers and big, open fireplaces — make them special.

Tswalu offers a bespoke safari experience. Gone are the 5 a.m. wake-up calls (unless you want them), endless off-schedule meals, and the quest for the Big Five. Tswalu — a thousand-square-kilometer reserve that is a labor of love for the Oppenheimer family — is all about conservation and land use, as well as the pursuit of animals that are not easily found elsewhere. Enormous black-maned Kalahari lions dazzle. So do families of frolicking meerkats, elegant giraffes strolling across open plains, and the elusive aardvark. It is also a birder's paradise, with over two hundred rare species readily on view. There is no sense of imminent danger here and that makes Tswalu what I refer to as "safari lite": you will constantly see, do, and learn, but without the threat of being some animal's next meal.

The guides and trackers are top-notch ecologists who lead safaris in a Land Rover, on horseback, or even on foot so that you can get up close to nature. Tracking takes on new meaning here. Our guide was happy to alight from the vehicle, rifle in hand, and bushwhack until he found prides of lions and desert black rhinos languishing in the mid-day sun. Other highlights included sleeping under the stars, eating a delicious lunch by the motse pool, and receiving authentic spa treatments that incorporate indigenous red dune sand, desert minerals, and botanical fibres. Add to this the absence of malaria and a warm community comprised of 142 staff members (plus a peek into their eco-friendly housing, preschool, dedicated health clinic, and adult literacy programmes) and you get a real sense of how Tswalu is transforming this massive area, in terms of both environmental conservation and education.

With only twenty guests at a time, Tswalu feels more like an intimate, low-key house party than a Relais & Chateaux nestled at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. Its stated mission is "to restore the Kalahari to itself"; and I left this magical place feeling as though I'd been restored to myself as well.

FIND IT

Tswalu Kalahari
+27-0-53-781-9331
res@tswalu.com

Bahamas with the Kids: Harbour Island Essentials

It's not that this three-mile stretch of sand in the Bahamas is unknown. It’s that Harbour Island's relative inaccessibility has kept developers, big hotels, and obnoxious types away. Their loss is your gain: delicious food, the most pristine pink sand beach on the planet, just enough nightlife, and a pleasingly international vibe. (Nassau is an easy flight from Europe, which explains the Brits, the Italians, the French.) The perfect mix of local warmth and nice amenities, Harbour Island is a far cry from the kids clubs and sprawling spas so common at mega resorts. In other words, the island may be pricey, but that won’t stop the chickens and lizards from wandering across your patio.

WHERE TO STAY

The two-bedroom casitas at Pink Sands are great for families. The Balinese vibe was cultivated by the former owner, British music exec-turned-hotelier Chris Blackwell, and it leaves you feeling even farther away. The beach is gorgeous and the water is calm, clear, and shallow. Just down the path is Blue Bar, great for patio dining overlooking the sea — and for a Goombay Smash, the killer Bahamian rum drink that will kick anyone's ass. Coral Sands next door is under the same management and is another good option for cool parents and kids. Both properties have saltwater pools, but neither has fancy fitness facilities.

WHERE TO EAT

Head to town. The Landing is incomparable: amazing local ingredients (langoustines, grouper, fresh chicken curry), refined yet simple cuisine, a beautiful setting under trees, twinkling lights. Kids love the easy feeling of the India Hicks-backed venture; parents love lazing on outdoor settees aside the odd luminary. The Rolling Stones, Lenny Kravitz, Uma and Arki — all island regulars. (For more info, read The Landing postcard.) Mornings must begin with freshly baked Bahamian herb bread or croissants at Arthur's Bakery.

When you’re ready for a night without the progeny, ask Pink Sands to call a sweet sitter and head to Rock House for the gay/Euro/fabulous scene and the cuisine. Here, too, the focus is on fresh, locally caught fish and ingredients. The crowd stays late, lounging on couches around a central, sleek pool area. How totally Ibiza. 

WHAT TO DO

My kids loved taking a guided boat ride with Duke, a local conch and bone fisherman. Just ask for him at the town dock. The affable Duke picks up starfish, follows sea turtles, and finds shallow bays where kids can swim. Golf carts are de riguer on Harbour Island, and what kid doesn’t love a golf cart? The snorkeling is terrific, as is watching the conch guys come in with the day’s catch and clean the beautiful shells. It won’t take much to make you happy here. 

WHERE TO SHOP

All ages love the Dilly Dally, located at the main intersection in town, for Bahamamian straw goods, "briland" tees, postcards, and jewelry and ornaments crafted from pink conch shells. (In other words, the irresistible trinkets you buy on holiday and start questioning on the plane ride home.) India Hicks' Sugar Mill is the glamorous source for caftans, European finds, and beach gear. Ditto the Blue Rooster on King Street, where you'll find gorgeous sundresses, scarves, and unique sandals. Even a trip to mini-supermarket The Piggly Wiggly is good fun, just to see what came in on the boat from the mainland that day.

First Look: Bahia Vik, Jose Ignacio

Bahia Vik, set to open any day now in Jose Ignacio, is already poised to be one of the hottest destinations of the winter season. Contributing editor Christina Ohly was one of the first to get a look around. 

JOSE IGNACIO, Uruguay – If you're looking for the ultimate sunset, overlooking ten acres of sprawling dunes, then Bahia Vik has your name written all over it.

CHECKING IN

Set to open in winter 2014 in time for high season, the hotel is a perfect compliment to Vik Retreats sister properties Playa Vik, just down the beach, and Estancia Vik, their equestrian "farm" situated inland. Bahia Vik features contemporary Uruguayan art, sleek furnishings, and minimalist pools at every turn. Environmentally friendly casitas are understated yet luxurious at the same time and everything tastefully melds into the the oceanfront landscape.

In the Room

Eleven unique bungalows and 37 guest rooms and suites range in style and finish, but each incorporates indigenous Uruguayan woods and grey slate for an overall sleek aesthetic. Art remains a huge focus for at any Vik (don't miss the James Turrell light installation at Playa Vik next door), and here the exuberant artwork is not only decorative, but real conversation starters as well.

Room with a View

Rooms are wildly expensive in the high season, but you get what you pay for, and every service is top-notch yet low-key at the same time. I stayed in a two-bedroom suite with my preteen kids who loved the big, comfortable beds and excellent snacks.

The bright, colorful, art-filled rooms.

What's on Site

I love a hotel with separate swimming pools for kids and adults, as it takes the pressure off everyone involved. Not that you need a pool, as Magna beach at your doorstep has gentle surf and some of the best South American people watching you'll find anywhere. (Microscopic bikinis are de rigueur.) Bahia guests can horseback ride at the nearby Estancia property or stroll down the dunes for a perfectly grilled hamburger or fresh sushi at the Vik's La Susana restaurant. In addition, a state-of-art spa and a well-appointed gym offer healthy diversions (no lines at the latter!).

The Food

Breakfast includes a complimentary buffet of yogurts, cheeses, and freshly baked local delicacies, but fluffy omelettes and pancakes appear in record time as well. Soy latte? Gluten intolerance? Nothing seems to throw this crew off, and they are genuinely happy to please every palate.

This Place Is Perfect for

Anyone with a pulse. Families are in full effect at the holidays, but honeymooners can find peace and quiet in sun-filled courtyards and poolside.

But Not So Perfect For

A recluse. Although why would one come here in the first place? Jose Ignacio is about wonderful, communal asados, parties, and long days spent at the beach or on horseback. If you're Type A or in a hurry, best to give this a pass.

The setting. Photo courtesy of Vik Resorts.

History, Hollywood, Heaven: San Ysidro Ranch

Contributing editor Christina Ohly has a knack for finding the world's loveliest hotels. She's found her ultimate in Montecito, California.

SANTA BARBARA, California – History, old Hollywood, and hospitality in the extreme meet at San Ysidro Ranch, a citrus farm-turned-luxury hideaway nestled in the foothills above Montecito. I have wanted to visit this special hotel for years — and even noted it on my Fathom travel wish list — primarily because I'd heard such wonderful things about the food (almost all of it locally sourced), the laid-back atmosphere combined with scrupulous attention to detail, and the scenic hiking trails that surround the sprawling, 500-acre spread. I was not disappointed on any front, and San Ysidro Ranch has shot to the number one position on my list of favorite hotels of all time. We're talking an overall outstanding user experience — a 12 on a scale of 1-10. There are not adequate words to describe the perfection you'll find here, but it's an understatement to say that San Ysidro is worth a detour, a long weekend, a honeymoon, a mellow family vacation, or all of the above. We're talking Nirvana here.

Bliss at San Ysidro begins in the driveway.

It all begins upon check-in, which isn't really a registration at all, as you are greeted in the driveway and whisked straight to your lovely yet low-key cottage. No pesky paperwork here. They cater to a clientele that likes privacy: Silicon Valley techpreneurs, Hollywood starlets.

If you're really looking to splash out, the Ty Warner Cottage, with private patio and pool, is as swank as it gets.

Our home for three days — and you really do feel as if the house is yours — came complete with sumptuous robes, stacks of reading material, and freshly made snacks at every turn. The difference here is in the little touches: endless chips and salsa, local wines on ice, crisp copies of the Financial Times at the crack of dawn. Nothing has been overlooked, and sitting on my bougainvillea-laden porch watching the sunset with a cold Diet Coke in hand was simply perfection.

Bungalow-style cottages are individually designed, with big sitting rooms, tons of amenities, and peaceful terraces.

The Magnolia room has cozy spaces and a wood-burning fireplace.

Bathrooms have high ceilings and claw-foot bathtubs.

Each cottage is decorated differently, and whether you're in the most basic one-bedroom or in the spacious Ty Warner Cottage (so named after the current owner and Beanie Baby entrepreneur), the bathrooms have soaring ceilings and tubs that are made for soaking. The décor is not the least bit slick or mod, but rather country chic, which only adds to the overall charm and ambience.

The main hacienda — the reception area — was once the focal part of the ranch and now provides a spacious place for people to commune with others (never happens), play board games, and enjoy a constant supply of warm cookies. You're likely to run into Seamus McManus, an Irishman and a consummate hotelier who is happy to share stories about the Ranch and its celebrity-studded past: Audrey Hepburn, Bing Crosby, Winston Churchill, and President and Jackie Kennedy all spent time here, and Hollywood's A-list now comes with kids in tow.

The Stonehouse patio serves delicious food, much of it from the Ranch's organic garden.

The Plow & Angel serves SoCal versions of classic pub fare.

The highlights (and there are so many) are the hotel's two restaurants — the slightly more formal Stonehouse and the relaxed Plow & Angel, where farm-to-table eating takes on a whole new meaning. Much of the produce is grown on the Ranch's organic garden and the cuisine is simply top-notch — and brilliantly simple. I had some of the best wood-fired pizzas and sashimi I've ever tasted beneath an arbor of twinkling orange trees. This being wine country, the lists are extensive, and the sommeliers are approachable and happy to educate anyone (my curious kids included) about local vintages and $5,000 bottles alike. Breakfast is not served in either restaurant, as guests typically prefer to take it in their rooms in front of the fireplace or on their front porch with sweeping views and fragrant magnolia and orange blossoms.

The chic simple pool area.

There are more than seventeen miles of manicured yet challenging hiking trails that run through the property, as well as a minimalist-chic hilltop pool that I could easily spend a month lolling beside.

Nestled in the foothills of Montecito, San Ysidro Ranch has about five hundred acres of spectacular gardens, hiking trails, and elegant cottages.

With 360° degree views of the Santa Ynez Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, San Ysidro Ranch will make you forget civilization in the best possible way. You'll only interact with other guests as you'd like. I can still see the California light, taste the scrumptious food, and feel the gentle warmth of that Santa Barbara sun. I'm hoping my Zen lasts until I can return to this utterly tasteful, tranquil spot.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fly: Santa Barbara Municipal Airport is 15 miles away. Otherwise, Los Angeles is about 100 miles south. San Ysidro Ranch is located just off Highway 101.

FIND IT

San Ysidro Ranch
900 San Ysidro Lane
Santa Barbara, CA
+1-805-565-1700
guestservice@sanysidrorancy.com
sanysidroranch.com

Hey Kids, Let's Go to LA

Los Angeles: A surprisingly great place for a quick family getaway. Three days is all you need to see a little bit of everything.

LOS ANGELES – Looking for a great warm-weather getaway that includes sun, sand, sea, and a James Beard Award-winning taco truck or two? Search no further than Los Angeles, one of my favorite spots for kids and grown-ups alike. And remember: No matter what the weather is where you are right now, it's always summer in LA.

SETTLE IN

Los Angeles is usually an easy place to get to with frequent flyer miles, which saves a nice penny. Once you've landed at LAX, with its Jetsons-esque control tower, head straight for the Fairmont Miramar in seaside Santa Monica. Less well known than nearby Shutters and Casa del Mar hotels, the Miramar offers the perfect mix of old Hollywood (bungalows and industry types taking meetings on the patio) and proximity to the beach. The property is off Ocean Boulevard, just five minutes from the Santa Monica Pier (aka Kid Heaven) and the hotel's fully-staffed beach cabanas, where you'll feel secluded amidst tall palms and relative calm.

DAY 1: The Warm-Up

If you're living large, book a bi-level bungalow. They're perfect for families and offer multiple terraces for swimsuit drying and picnics of decadent room service pancakes. The pool area is, of course, key for any kid, and the Miramar's amorphous version — complete with hot tub — doesn't disappoint. Ditto Fig Restaurant, which is twenty feet from the pool area. Hotel restaurant haters out there, stop your eyerolling and prepare for foodie greatness. Chef Ray Garcia's creative take on the classic California chopped salad features only fresh, organic, locally grown ingredients from the nearby Santa Monica Farmers Market. Everyone will love simple grilled cheese (gruyère or cheddar with tomato jam), pasta-less lasagna, and BLTs that are beyond compare.

After idling and eating, you'll want to take it off-campus. I find the best days with children include a mix of culture, playgrounds, and delicious food. Head up shop-lined Montana Avenue to the outdoor mini-mall Brentwood Country Mart. "Mini-mall" may be a stretch: Reese Witherspoon buys her trendy cover-ups and artisinal ice cream cones here. Kids will love pony rides in the parking lot on weekends and fish tacos and fries in the "food court." I stock up on tiny Tretorn tennies at Poppy Store, possibly my favorite children's store in the United States. A one-stop shop for toys, gifts, and basics, Poppy carries a perfectly edited mix of tasteful European brands (like England's Caramel Baby and Child) and American originals — all perfectly packaged, too. Kids will be distracted by the 25-cent ride-on toys outside the shop's window (talk about a throwback), allowing parents time to shop in peace.

Finish your day at Pizzeria Mozza, Mario Batali and Nancy Silverton's Hollywood hotspot with the best pies on the planet. Top the killer crust with the basics (margherita for beginners) or squash blossoms and speck for more sophisticated palates. This spot packs quickly, so book online if possible or suck it up and endure the line. If you have room for dessert, swing by Menchie's on the way back to the hotel for DIY frozen yogurt creations, complete with 40 colorful candy toppings.

DAY 2: A Malibu Mindset 

Start with breakfast at Cora's Coffee Shoppe, a sweet local hangout with Illy cappuccino, blueberry-banana-orange smoothies, and burrata caprese omelettes. Once you're appropriately fortified, head north up the Pacific Coast Highway for a day in picturesque Malibu. Make reservations at the kid-friendly Getty Center and Villa and roam the endless gardens that overlook the Pacific Ocean. All ages will be mesmerized by the museum's Greek and Roman treasures and collections of armor, coins, and beautiful photography by Atget and Walker Evans, among others.

After so much fresh air and light, you'll want to pack it in early. The best, old-school supper in town is at Ivy by the Shore (1535 Ocean Avenue; 310-393-3113) in Santa Monica. Ask for patio seating and feast on American classics with a SoCal flair: more chopped vegetable salads, pizzas, and decadent sundaes. Added bonus: The kitschy Hawaiian theme provides built-in entertainment for kids while parents people-watch. Stroll over to the twinkling Santa Monica Pier, which comes alive at sunset, before heading back to your hotel oasis.

DAY 3: Go Glam

When in LA, give in to its twin cultural pillars: celebrity and sunshine. A perfect third and final day includes breakfast to go from Huckleberry Cafe and Bakery. Who knew that star sightings pair so perfectly with prosciutto-stuffed croissants and Niman Ranch bacon-maple biscuits? (Huckleberry's new offshoot, Milo + Olive, serves delicious wood-fired pizzas, locally sourced everything, and great wines by the glass.) Head up Wilshire Boulevard to the eclectic Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), so kids can explore the Boone Children's Gallery before hitting the Page Museum and its oozing, prehistoric La Brea Tar Pits.

That's enough looking and learning. Time to repair to the Beverly Hills Hotel for a little lunch and Polo Lounge-ing. The pink landmark has verdant grounds, secluded spots for hide and seek, and one seriously glamorous pool scene. Your biggest decision here will be where to eat, and you'll want to let the kids tiumph with their choice: The Fountain Coffee Room, a 1950s gem of an old-fashioned soda fountain with bar stools, great burgers, malts, and floats. The only things missing are Bogey and Bacall and Lucy and Desi.

If you have energy to burn, make your last stop Griffith Park, a massive play space that is home to the Los Angeles Zoo, the Griffith Observatory, pony rides, a miniature train system, the Greek Theatre, and much more. Rent bikes to reach the merry-go-round built in 1926 near the Los Feliz entrance, where all 68 horses are jumpers wearing bejeweled bridles. How can you not love LA?

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fathom's Los Angeles Guide: For hotels, restaurants, shops, sites, itineraries, and more.

MAP IT

See all the locations in this story. (Google Maps)

Photos: Courtesy of Poppy Store; Christina Ohly.

Zen Out in Paso Robles, California

Low-key and lovely, the Central Coast region of California is being hailed as the new Napa for its undulating hills and vineyards, proximity to the ocean, and stunning scenery. From food and wine galore and landmarks like Hearst Castle to the spectacular rocky beach at Morro Bay, this is a relatively undiscovered gem of a destination — though probably not for much longer.

Paso Robles ("Pass of the Oaks" in Spanish), in San Luis Obispo County, is located midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, which makes it a great side trip from either, as well as a destination in its own right. The prices are lower and the vibe is more laid-back than Napa and Sonoma. The area feels authentic, a total mix — farm workers and fancy types, gay and straight — which make everything feel inclusive and interesting. Unwind while you sip varietals, lounge by the pool, and hang with genuine cowboys. By all means, bring the kids.

WHAT TO DO

Morning Fuel

The name doesn't scream "breakfast," but locals line up out the door at Hoover's Beef Palace (401 N. Main St., Templeton; +1-805-434-2114) for homemade sausage patties with eggs and enormous biscuits with gravy. This place is so legit that a) they don't have a website, but b) they do have their own slaughterhouse out back. If Hoover's is good enough for area ranchers and farm hands, it's good enough for you. Bonus: You'll banish that teensy weensy hangover you might have sustained from a wine tasting or two (or four) the day before.

Play

If you're in Paso Robles on the weekend, stop at Templeton Farmer's Market for the crazy bounty: artichokes the size of bowling balls, fresh berries, and baked goods. Kids will love the on-site playground and pony rides. For further running around, Barney Schwartz Park has a one-million-gallon lake, pavilions for picnics, and endless playing fields. See how olive oil is made at Pasolivo farm and mill. Their oils make for great souvenirs. 

Eat

McPhee's Grill in downtown Templeton serves a delicious bistro lunch with no-fuss attitude. Ancho duck and cheese quesadilla and pulled pork sandwich with shoestring fries are unparalleled. Follow up with a trip to Powell's Sweet Shoppe for dessert. If you're with kids, show them exactly how ancient you are when you buy candy by the decade. Everyone should know Wax Lips, Fruit Stripe gum, and Gobstoppers.

For a casual picnic, stock up on made-to-order sandwiches at Farmstand 46. Of special note, the Calamity Jane: roasted pork, cilantro, pickled daikon and carrots, and rooster aioli on a crusty baguette.

For dinner, go to the lovely Artisan Restaurant, where gouda and porter fondue with andouille, broccolini, and garlic bread is a little slice of heaven. Thomas Hill Organics serves lunch and dinner, with much on the plate coming from their family-run organic farm.  

At 15 Degrees C Wine Shop and Bar, you can taste and buy small-production Central Coast wines. Il Cortile Ristorante serves terrific Italian at lunch and dinner.  

Drink. A Lot.

When in Rome...Great soil conditions, proximity to the ocean, and mixed microclimates: That's the secret behind the hot new wine region's great products. Winemakers around here like to think outside the box, and they're producing interesting and great wines, especially in Rhône varietals. There are more than 200 Paso producers, and many of the best are small, family-owned wineries. Pace yourself. There's a lot to taste. 

- Venteux Vineyards (pictured above): Don't miss their incredible Farmhouse Cuvee. Here's a head start on your tasting notes: "I sense hints of lavender, black cherry, fig preserves, and sage."

- Halter Ranch Vineyard: Make for the hills for Côtes de Paso and a fine cabernet sauvignon. The spectacular 900-acre ranch historically produced its wines in an old airplane hangar but recently moved operations to a swanky new gravity-flow winery.

- AmByth Estate: The only certified biodynamic winery in the region.

- Saxum Vineyards: You can't visit the vineyard, but you can buy their noteworthy Syrah, as well as grenache and mourvèdre blends.

- And a few more good ones: Bella Luna Estate Winery, Booker Vineyard, Villa Creek Cellars (they have a restaurant in Paso Robles)

As for the well-known wineries, the ones to visit are: 

- Turley Wine Cellars: Their big, bold zinfandel has a serious cult following, so be prepared to pay up: Bottles often trade at two to three times suggested retail prices. At Turley, you can sample many old-vine zinfandels from all over California, as well as from three local vineyards. The estate and the beautiful tasting room are on the old Pesenti Vineyard, which has zinfandel vines that are more than 85 years old.

- Justin Vineyards and Winery: Located down the road from Halter Ranch. Come on Saturdays and Sundays to feast al fresco at Deborah's Room, before hitting yet another tasting room for a sip of their "Left Bank, Bordeaux-style" blend, Isosceles.

- Tablas Creek Vineyard: The terroir in Las Tablas is similar to that of Châteauneuf du Pape. The estate's signature wines are Esprit de Beaucastel and Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc. 

If you don't want to drive, call Lush Limo for a full-service tour. (This is a great idea for non-tacky bachelor/bachelorette weekends, though, please, avoid the white stretch at all costs.)

Be Merry

Paso Robles loves itself a party.

- Anytime: Happy Acres Family Farm is a goat farm with more than 200 goats, alpacas, and miniature horses, where kids can milk the animals and make cheese. 

- March, May, October: The third weekends of the month are wine festivals. See calendar.

- July: The Fourth of July parade features floats and flags galore. Mid-State Fair combines musical acts, horse shows, and olive oil competition. "The Great American Road Trip" is the theme for 2012. 

- October: Pioneer Day is a festival of kindness and community spirit (how refreshing!). Harvest Wine Weekend celebrates a good old-fashioned grape crushing.

- December: Christmas Light Parade: For pure holiday kitsch.

Go Coastal

Make time for a scenic drive through the vineyards and over the mountains to the majestic San Luis Obispo Coast, where enormous elephant seals stage epic battles and their young pups bob in the surf. Just down Highway 1 is Mediterranean-inspired Hearst Castle, with its dazzling 165 rooms, endless gardens, and shimmering pools. Finish up any day in nearby seaside town Cayucos with a meal in the back garden at Hoppe's Garden Bistro, followed by brown-butter sea salt cookies at Brown Butter Cookie Company.

WHERE TO STAY

- Hotels: Hotel Cheval is a lovely 16-room boutique hotel with a European vibe and a welcoming pet program. Centrally located Paso Robles Inn has hot springs, a low-key spa, and a heated pool.

- B&Bs: Small, family-run inns are the name of the game here. One of the best for local color is the two-room guest house at Venteux Vineyards. If that's full, ask about their Red Barn next door. Both offer a farm-stay feel, and kids will love the pool, sport court, and tractor rides. Orchard Hill Farm is an elegant — and much beloved — English-style manor house. Cass House Inn and Restaurant in Cayucos is convenient to Hearst Castle and the cute seals in San Luis State Park.

- Homes: Rent a house through Paso Robles Vacation Rentals.

HOW TO GET THERE

Fly: San Luis Obispo Airport (SLO), located 24 miles from Paso Robles, is a complete delight in today's travel terms. It's small, manageable, and has several rental car agency options, as well as taxis. Fly United Airlines from Los Angeles and San Francisco or US Airways from Phoenix.

Drive: San Francisco is about three hours away; Los Angeles about three and a half. Depending, as ever, on traffic. 

WEATHER

Come prepared for California's highest swing between daytime highs and nighttime chills.
- Average high/low temperatures in Farenheit: 87/50 in summer, 60/34 in winter.
- April-October: highs from mid-70s to mid-90s.
- March and November: highs in mid-70s.
- December-February: highs in low 60s.

MAP IT

See the locations on this trip. (Google Maps)

BEST OF THE WEB

- The Complete Guide to America's Hottest New Wine Country (Details, April 2011)
- Paso Robles Celebrates Harvest Weekend (Travel + Leisure, October 2011) 
- Planning Your Trip to Paso Robles (Los Angles Times, January 2010) 
- Robert Parker on the Promise of Paso Robles (Food & Wine, October 2007)

LOCAL COLOR

- City of Paso Robles: official website
- Paso Robles Official Visitor Site 
- Paso Robles Wine: winery information, maps, and events calendars from Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance
- Paso Robles Winery Map 
- Hoot 'n' Annie: wine blog
- The Tribune/SanLuisObispo.com: news and information

Everything You Need to Know to Have a Perfect Beach Vacation in Jose Ignacio, Uruguay

While Jose Ignacio is hardly a travel secret anymore, it's still low-key enough to feel like an insider's destination. Contributing editor Christina Ohly reveals everything Fathom readers could ever need to know about how to have a perfect beach trip to Uruguay.

JOSE IGNACIO, Uruguay – Old Montauk meets Malibu in Jose Ignacio and the coastal towns surrounding Punta del Este in Southeastern Uruguay. Here you'll find everything from surf shacks to gauchos in traditional garb, not to mention delicious communal asados (barbecues) set on wide Atlantic beaches. Punta del Este serves as an entry point to a series of lovely fishing villages and quieter inland destinations such as Garzón, the Deco throwback set amongst verdant, rolling hills that is home to famed Argentine chef Francis Mallman's hotel and restaurant, Garzon.

The iconic lighthouse.

THE SCENE

For beach chic with an artisanal vibe, this area is impossible to beat. Jose Ignacio is hardly a travel secret anymore, but the destination is only going to get more and more popular. So magical is the entire scene that you should just book your trip now.

And although this gets tossed around like a bad travel brochure cliche, there truly is something for everyone in this part of the world. For the avid, athletic types, there's horseback riding, biking, and invigorating swims. For the chaise lounger, there's poolside capriroskas (a cocktail borrowed from neighboring Brazil), endless massages, and long lunches at La Huella (as seen in Michelle Lehman's Just Back from Jose Ignacio, and I agree wholeheartedly with her ringing endorsement of this special spot by the sea).

Kids of all ages are enchanted, too, by the rugged mix of cowboy culture (horseback riding is accessible to all), polo ponies (in the high season which lasts the few, short weeks between Christmas and mid-January), and swims in the 20-meter Absolute Nero stone pools that have twinkling under water "constellations" (an added bonus at all Vik hotels.)

Lunch at Fish Market. Photo by Christina Ohly.

LAY OF THE LAND

After landing in either Montevideo or Punta del Este, head straight for the laid-back village of Jose Ignacio. You'll pass the picturesque 1877 lighthouse and the stunningly simple mid-century modern beach homes owned by the likes of Shakira and Argentine hotelier Alan Faena.

Drive along the coastline (preferably in an open-top Jeep) through the villages of La Barra, El Chorro, Punta Pedras, and Manantiales. Plan on spending a few hours in Manantiales to visit Atchugarry Foundation, the workshop of master sculptor/local hero Pablo Atchugarry and also to stock up on beach gear at the many great surf stores in the area and house décor with playful prints at Roberta Roller Rabbit. Try to come hungry, so you can have delicately fried cod sandwiches and fresh gazpacho on the whitewashed patio at stylish Fish Market (Ruta 10, km 163.5; +598-42-774-431).

Word to the wise: Before you set off on any expedition, you should know that there aren't many petrol stations or cash machines in this part of the world. You'll want to stock up on gas and pesos at the Ancap at the roundabout in Jose Ignacio before heading too far off the beaten path.

Ride on. 

IF YOU ONLY DO ONE THING

Go Horseback Riding
I hadn't been on a horse in 20+ years and had no interest in saddling up again. Yet the charming gauchos (who smile sweetly and speak no English) and the spectacular scenery made this a memorable activity for our entire family — my husband, myself, and my tween son and daughter.

An excursion is easy to arrange because riding is included at many hotels — Estancia Vik, Casa Suaya, and Garzon among them. Horses are typically kept on property and thus don't have to be booked days in advance. The docile breed of Uruguayan horses seem comfortable with riders of all (read: zero) ability, which made for relaxing trail rides through diverse, meadow-filled terrain.

The impressive architecture at Playa Vik. Photos by Christina Ohly.

WHERE TO STAY

You'll notice a lot of Vik hotels in this list. For good reason: Team Vik excels at creating innovative, cool, stunning places you'll never want to leave.

Estancia Vik
Camino Eugenio Sainz Martínez; +598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
Set on 4,000 stunning acres of pasture and gently rolling hills, this is a house stay unlike any other. Each of the 12 suites were designed by a contemporary Uruguayan artist, giving the estancia the feel a modern museum housed in a stunning, authentic villa. No detail is overlooked, and the kind staff — including the resident gauchos — look after restaurant bookings, trail rides, and spa treatments. An eco-friendly emphasis and a killer Saturday night asado are but a few of the many lovely bonuses.

Playa Vik
Calle Los Cisnes and Calle Los Horneros; +598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
The Vik group's original beach property has an extremely modernist feel, all glass facades, fire pits, and artwork, most notably a James Turrell light installation and a Zaha Hadid-designed table in the main house. Especially impressive is the 75-meter cantilevered swimming pool that seems to jut out over the sea, to say nothing for the grass-topped villas designed by starchitect Carlos Ott. In other words, the entire place is nothing if not striking and unique.

Bahia Vik
+598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
Set to open in winter 2014 in time for high season, the hotel features contemporary Uruguayan art, separate swimming pools for kids and adults, and environmentally friendly casitas that are understated yet luxurious at the same time. Located directly on the beach, Bahia guests can horseback ride at the nearby Estancia property or stroll down the dunes for a perfectly grilled hamburger or fresh sushi at the Vik's La Susana restaurant.

Posada del Faro
Luis E. Schickendantz and Del Timonel; +598-44-862-110
A relatively affordable option with rooms facing a small pool and Jose Ignacio bay in the distance.

Vintage rules. Photos courtesy of Casa Zinc.

Casa Zinc
Calle 9 and Carlos Gardel, La Barra; +598-99-620-066 / +598-42-773-003
A small hotel in the village of La Barra that will appeal to lovers of vintage furniture and intimate environments. Owner Aaron Hojman has amassed a charming collection of local finds mixed with flea market treasures from the UK and beyond.

Casa Suaya
Ruta 10, km 185.5; +54-11-4771-1667 / +598-44-862-750
A lovely and simple boutique bolthole with a charming boho feel. Accommodations include two bedroom suites (bonus for families), Butia restaurant, a large pool, and horseback riding.

Garzon
Costa Jose Ignacio and La Capilla, Garzón; +598-44-102-811
An incredibly special inn (one of Fathom's World's Most Romantic Hotels) run by chef extraordinaire Francis Mallman that draws an international foodie crowd for meals and overnight stays in the give guest rooms centered on an open courtyard and pool. Diners feast outside or in the intimate dining room on beautiful meat, fish, and vegetables prepared on a massive iron grill using a traditional infernillo technique. (Mallman is world-renown for his grilling style.)

Lunch is served at La Susana. Photos courtesy of La Susana.

WHERE TO EAT

The question is where not to eat, as the food – all kinds of cuisines and at all price points – is just so good.

La Caracola
Address emailed after booking; +598-94-223-015
A beach club on a small island from the folks behind local favorite La Huella. You have to take a private boat to get here, and your just rewards are wonderful snacks, light seafood meals, and cleric, a white wine sangria. The fee is $180 per day, and you need to book well in advance.

Marismo
Ruta 10, km 185; +598-42-486-2273
A special, candle-lit spot that can be difficult to find in the dark but is worth the journey for braised lamb and the grilled catch of the day. The atmosphere is magical. Book well in advance.

La Susana
Ruta 10, km 182.5; +598-44-862-823 / +598-95-192-555
A casual beach club and restaurant that serves everything from grilled snapper and pizzas to Norwegian vodka produced by the Vik family. A festive bamboo bar in the sand draws all kinds. Children frolick freely, larger groups spread out, and the party lasts well into the night.

La Olada
Ruta 10, km 181.5; +598-44-862-745 / +598-99-337-908
Soft candlelight sets the stage for a delicious meal of fresh salads, pastas, and grilled meats at this quiet spot inland. Ubiquitous wood-fired pizzas make for delicious appetizers, and the whole place feel very homey in the best possible way. (Those are the owner's dog and cat meandering about.)

Everyone is happy at La Huella.

La Huella
Calle de Los Cisnes; +598-44-862-279
Widely regarded as a gastronomic mecca, the beachside spot deserves its reputation and should be everyone's first stop. The setting is magical — soft music, neutral colored wood decks, and candlelight set the scene by night — as are the crispy octopus and line-caught sea bass. Creative sushi dishes, wood-fired pizzas, and housemade dulce de leche ice cream were other consistent winners And I should know, because I literally ate seven meals in a row here.

Almacen el Palmar
Plaza de Jose Ignacio; +598-44-862-102
One of my favorite meals in Uruguay. From delicious poppy seed rolls with tapenade to perfectly grilled fish and Provençal pastas by gregarious chef Jean Paul Bondoux, who wanders freely around the patio and dining room. Almacen is an all-day affair, with freshly baked croissants and breads available in the morning and wonderful cheeses in the adjacent deli throughout the day. Dinner, served indoors on the lovely, canopied outdoor patio, is a must.

Namm
Ruta 10, km 185; +598-486-2526
I am ever the fan of Japanese food, and this place serves the freshest sushi (and grilled meats) I've had anywhere. The wooden bungalow setting adds to the overall experience.

Beach chic. Photo courtesy of El Canuto.

WHERE TO SHOP

Santas Negras
Camino Eugenio Saiz Martinez and Los Lobos; +598-44-862-262
The mid-century modern, two-story boutique just outside town has been lovingly curated by Paula Martini (wife of La Huella owner Martin Pittaluga) and Patricia Torres, who filled it with vintage furniture, decorative objects, featherweight cashmere sweaters, and playful jewelry that works well at the casual, evening barbecue parties they host out back. Don't miss the atmospheric café patio for delicious cappuccinos, capirinhinas, and panini.

Mutate
Café de la Place (in front of Plaza Jose Ignacio); +598-44-862-703
Stocks great vintage and designer clothing for men and women.

El Canuto
Calle de Los Cisnes; +598-44-862-028
The place for caftans, lingerie, and other beach basics.

Alium
Costa Jose Ignacio, Garzón; +598-99-128-672
A great design-led shop further inland in Garzón.

Talabarteria Benitez
Calle Maldonado and Calle 25 de Agosto, San Carlos; no phone.
The old-school gaucho supply shop in the village of San Carlos is the place to source a wide assortment of leather chaps and silver adornments.

The Jose Ignacio Supermarket
I love to go to the grocery store to take in the local color, and this one sells everything: beach basics (chips and salty snacks), refined deli fare, meats, cheeses, fruits, and vegetables.

WHAT YOU'LL KNOW ON THE LAST DAY THAT YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN ON THE FIRST

Bring Cash — and Lots of It
This is not neighboring Argentina where everything is cheap. It's a relatively pricey area with very few cash machines. US dollars are generally welcome.

Pack Light — Really Light
Think haute-hippie hideaway, where high season temperatures can soar past 100 degrees and there is no need for anything fancy. I overpacked by a wide margin and could have made do with a bathing suit, sarong, T-shirt, shorts, and sneakers (mandatory for horseback riding).

Take Great Care When Booking Restaurants
You don't want to miss a meal in Uruguay. The restaurants and cafes are fantastic — at all price points. Area specialties include delicious grilled fish, sushi and ceviches, steak (of course), and housemade helado (ice cream). Places book well in advance — especially hotspots like La Huella, Garzon, and Marismo. Not that you're at risk of going hungry, considering how many under-the-radar gems you'll find everywhere. Among my favorites were La Olada, Parador al Almacen, Namm, and La Susana — all casual and festive, serving traditional, often wood-fired fare. This is the kind of food and drink that makes everyone happy, so book in advance if you can.

HOW TO GET THERE

It's very easy from the United States, with direct flights to Buenos Aires International Airport (EZE) on both American Airlines and Aerolineas Argentinas. You'll have to transfer to BA's smaller airport, Jorge Newbery (AEP),which can be a pain, especially if there's traffic, to catch a flight to Punta Del Este (PDE) on Aerolineas Argentinas, Pluna, or Buquebus. The drive to Jose Ignacio from Punta Del Este is approximately 45 minutes.

Another option is flying into Carrasco International Airport (MVD) in Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, via Miami on American Airlines. The drive to Jose Ignacio is approximately 90 minutes, and rental cars must be booked well in advance.

VISAS

While there are no visa requirements for either Argentina or Uruguay, you will need to pre-pay a reciprocity fee if you travel through Argentina.

WHEN TO GO

I can't imagine there is a wrong time to go to Uruguay, but spring and fall — shoulder seasons leading into winter and summer — are completely delightful. With bright blue skies, temperatures averaging in the mid-70s, and an absence of crowds, March and April are the perfect times to explore — and to secure bookings at all of the area's stellar restaurants.
The winter holidays bring throngs from Argentina and Brazil, but nothing feels over-run, as there are no glitzy mega hotels catering to the St. Tropez club set. That said, these people like to party — very late into the night — so it's all about invitations to house parties and elaborate asados feasts of local beef (the best I've ever tasted — period), assorted vegetables, and locally caught corvina negra (white drum fish).

Maine at Its Beachy, Old-School, Down-Home Best

Sometimes you need an escape from the mundane — and sometimes that escape can bring you back to another decade. The Black Point Inn is the perfect New England getaway when you're feeling nostalgic for the 1930s. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly shows us why this little-known Maine town is the perfect chill spot for any age.

PROUT'S NECK, Maine – I was in Prout's Neck, a scenic part of coastal Maine, for a brief summer getaway from NYC, and it might just be my new New England favorite spot. First and foremost is ease of use: Prout's Neck is exactly eleven miles — a twenty-minute drive — from the manageable Portland JetPort (PWM) which is served by Delta and JetBlue, among other airlines. While Maine is, by definition, "wicked far" from virtually anywhere, this bucolic area is easily accessible and feels an entire, old-school world away.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Black Point Inn is a throwback to another era — one when dark and stormy cocktails were savored on sweeping porches overlooking a rugged Atlantic coastline. Time has stopped here — in the best possible way — and the historical 25-room inn still feels like someone's grand guesthouse — albeit one straight of out an Edith Wharton or Henry James novel.

The shingled beachside escape was built in the 1870s and continues to be a central meeting point for locals and visitors alike. It is now owned by a consortium of the town's residents and is overseen by the Migis Hotel Group, a local Maine management company, and balances a classic, intimate atmosphere with a few state-of-the-art updates (WiFi, flat-screen TVs, and an unexpectedly well-equipped gym). The rooms and suites are spacious, and many have breathtaking views of the beaches on three sides of the property, as well as the lushly landscaped gardens. The shingle-style hotel has been lovingly restored, right down to the sun porch, where guests gather for afternoon tea (with freshly baked cookies), traditional board games, and The New York Times. This is the quintessential Down East inn, and one where kind and attentive service make for a truly delightful stay.

Claim to Fame

The Inn has several claims to fame, but chief among them are the spectacular sunsets overlooking Sand Dollar Beach. From a perch at one of the outside tables at the Chart Room, you can sip local Shipyard Summer Ale or a glass of rosè and feast on twin lobsters and plates of Damiriscotta oysters and watch the brilliant orange and red hues yield to a starry night sky.

Another special touch that Black Point Inn affords is access — to everything. Kind concierges will arrange a round of golf at the nearby Prout's Neck Country Club or a morning of tennis — on clay, natch. Guests at the Inn have unique access to Winslow Homer's studio just up the road. A stay here makes one feel like a well-connected insider.

The Food

Breakfast on the porch overlooking the sea is a total highlight, and the helpful servers are happy to provide everything: real oatmeal with brown sugar, blueberry pancakes, healthy egg white omelets. Delicious, red bliss potato hash browns and thick-cut bacon make this feel like a total holiday. The warm sun at your back only adds to the overall idyllic effect.

Dinner in The Chart Room is casual, with offerings like wedge salads, shrimp cocktail, and perfect burgers, or slightly more formal in The Point Restaurant. I love a restaurant with traditional white tablecloths, fresh seafood chowder, and just-picked corn and tomatoes that serves supper between six and eight p.m. nightly. You're so relaxed, that's bedtime anyway.

Room with a View

There are 25 rooms in various categories located in the historic shingle-style building, many with ocean or bay views, terraces, and sweet wicker furniture. Inter-connecting rooms work well for families, while Spinnaker Suites and Commodore's Chambers offer enormous, well-appointed bathrooms and separate sitting areas. The furnishing are Ye Olde New England — a mix of antiques and replicas — that are comfortable and in keeping with the overall aesthetic. This is not a minimalist's dream scenario, but it makes for a cosseting stay. Room 215 was particularly lovely and featured an enormous living room, a bedroom with two queen beds, and unparalleled views of July 4th fireworks in the distance.

This Place Is Perfect For

A huge dose of New England charm. It's also perfect for anyone who can't tolerate long car rides, but wants to feel transported to another, more quaint place and time. For anyone who likes to play Scrabble, read by a roaring fire, and eat oyster crackers, the Black Point Inn is pretty much your Nirvana.

But Not So Perfect For

Modernists, minimalists, or anyone that doesn't appreciate a bit of old-school, chintzy cool. Black Point Inn could be construed as fusty, but I prefer to think of it as old-world glamorous.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Prout's Neck is comprised primarily of the beautiful weekend homes of Boston, Philadelphia, and New York contingents, so it feels quiet and insular, but in a good way. Children ride their bikes to the Yacht Club for Opti sailing lessons, and everyone knows each other at the sweet post office and the general store. Be sure to take one of the Inn's complimentary bikes for a cruise around the larger area of Scarborough and the lilac- and hydrangea-lined lanes.

What to Do Nearby

Don't miss the one-and-a-half-mile Cliff Walk that starts just steps away from the inn and takes you along the dramatic, craggy rocks that were painted by area resident, Winslow Homer. The walk culminates at the simple studio where he lived and painted most of his life and from which you can see the changing colors of the blue-green sea.

Nearby Portland is a happening town, and the Old Port District is worth a detour for the cute shops and galleries that line the cobblestone streets. The world-class Portland Museum of Art houses many of Homer's great works, and the historic Wadsworth-Longfellow House makes for a great afternoon as well.

Foodies will be in heaven at the Eventide Oyster Co., where exquisite lobster rolls with brown butter vinaigrette and a clam bake-for-one (steamers, mussels, lobster tail, salt pork, and hard-boiled egg served within seaweed) are pure bliss.

Good to Know

Make time for both the saltwater pool (restorative) and sea kayaking. In-room massages are another plus. The upscale sandwiches at the General Store just down Black Point Road make for a refined picnic.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get Here

Fly: Prout's Neck is a twenty-minute drive from the Portland International JetPort (PWM), which is served by Delta and JetBlue, among others.

Find It

Black Point Inn
510 Black Point Road
Prout's Neck, Scarborough, Maine 04074
+1-207-883-2500
info@blackpointinn.com

Three-Day Weekends from Boston

Contributing editor Christina Ohly sends us packing for two peaceful weekend spots just a short drive from Boston. When can we leave?

BOSTON – Maybe, just maybe, you can put away the snow shovel. It's springtime in Boston, and everything's coming up roses. Take off on a Friday in the near future to explore and enjoy a quainter, quieter side of New England.

WOODSTOCK, VERMONT

If you're in the mood for: green mountains, picture-postcard covered bridges, and white clapboard church steeples.

Route to take: I-89 North for two-and-a-half hours.

Your agenda: Woodstock Inn — recently revamped to include LED-everything — has a serene spa and delicious farm-to-table cuisine in its casual Red Rooster restaurant. Head across the quaint village green outside your front door and make stops at the old-school Gillingham's general store and Yankee Bookshop before a lovely dinner-a-deux at The Prince and The Pauper, a town institution.

Avoid the Sunday blues: Do not skip town without a stop for black raspberry ice cream cones at the White Cottage Snack Bar. Open only in summer, this low-key spot is worth a serious, deep-fried detour.

WATCH HILL AND WEEKAPAUG, RHODE ISLAND

If you're in the mood for: a gorgeous beach escape with excellent cuisine to match.

Route to take: I-95 South for two hours.

Your agenda: Nest at the recently revamped Weekapaug Inn where sail boats, fishing gear, and a discreet, black-bottomed pool are all at your disposal. A meal of locally caught lobster, Matunuck oysters, and native beets is as memorable as the sunsets overlooking bucolic Quonochontaug Pond. Killer Swedish massages at Relais & Chateaux sister property The Ocean House are a Zen bonus.

Avoid the Sunday blues: One the way back to civilization, stock up on freshly baked chocolate chunk and molasses cookies at gourmet emporium The Cooked Goose.

Read more on Fathom: Summer with the Kids in Watch Hill.

Coming in for The Landing at Harbour Island

HARBOUR ISLAND, Bahamas – If Talitha Getty had taken a wrong turn in Marrakech, she would've landed on Harbour Island. Part funk, part fabulous, and always down-to-earth and welcoming, this special island in the Bahamas has the perfect hi-lo mix for any family vacation.  

But I come to visit the nexus of the foodie action: The Landing, a sweet little boutique hotel and restaurant on the bay in Dunmore Town. Every day gets off to the right start, with lemon-ricotta pancakes. Sit by the tiny pool or under the porch to watch passersby heading for the ferries on the dock. 

Come evening, you'll want an outdoor table — complete with twinkling lights strung in the trees overhead and soft votive candlelight throughout the fragrant gardens. Bored young kids can get up and explore the terrace without upsetting the formal balance. Show up early for a drink at the cozy bar, and you'll inevitably find a Rolling Stone (Ron Wood is a regular) or India Hicks, the ever-stunning island doyenne/face of Ralph Lauren/part owner of the establishment. 

In case I’ve been underselling my love for this place, let me be clear: Dinner at The Landing would be my Death Row Meal.

The contemporary menu places a heavy emphasis on fresh produce and locally caught seafood. Mind you, fresh produce is no small feat around these parts: There are no green markets, no soil for growing, and only tiny markets that take delivery of goods from the mainland every few days. Fancy greens are at a premium, yet The Landing always manages to have the crunchiest haricots verts, the most perfect, peppery arugula salad. The "briland" (that's local speak) staples include grilled grouper fillet with roasted tomatoes, asparagus, fingerling potatoes, and pesto or local lobster with green beans, potatoes, and melted butter.  

The Landing is all about superb simplicity, from crisp, white tablecloths and laid-back atmosphere to the slight British vibe. And because the owners are parents, they just get it. That means that your child's simpler (but still stellar) pasta and homemade chocolate gelato will appear in a timely fashion and that you'll be able to enjoy your appetizers (spicy crab capellini with romaine, lime, ginger garlic, and mild jalapeno chili oil; lobster dumplings with sweet chili dipping sauce) at a leisurely pace. I’d finish off my feast with Belgian chocolate pudding — served warm with vanilla bean ice cream — or the signature Afro Head tiramisu, made of Afro Head coffee and Afro Head rum — and call a golf cart to whisk me home. Worst case scenario — or maybe best case? — you can crash upstairs in one of the twelve chic, minimalist guestrooms. It's not like you have anyplace better to go.

FIND IT

The Landing
Bay Street
Dunmore Town, Harbour Island
Bahamas 
+1-242-333-2707

Pretty Little Secret: A Chic Bahamas Retreat

When contributing editor Christina Ohly discovers the Dunmore, she realizes that Harbour Island in the Bahamas is the destination that keeps on giving.

HARBOUR ISLAND, Bahamas – Harbour Island is the three-mile long haven of powder-fine pink sand and crystal clear turquoise waters that's remained relatively unchanged over the years. The Landing (which I wrote about on Fathom) serves as the epicenter for delicious meals and local gossip. The Rock House is the stylish spot for feasting poolside on locally caught lobster. Service around here is reliably slow, and that's actually part of the charm. And because the only way to get to the island is through a series of planes, cars, boats, and golf carts, only truly committed travelers end up here. Everyone else stays away. In short, the island is a little slice of heaven where you can truly escape the pace of modern life.

One thing has changed since my last visit in 2010: the revamping of The Dunmore, a beach club-cum-boutique hotel. Founded as a members-only club in 1963, it opened to the public in the 1980s and was renovated and reopened under new management in 2010. The stylish oasis is comprised of a laid-back communal sitting area, sixteen cheerful guest cottages designed by Nassau-based Amanda Lindroth, lovely dining and bar areas, and a glamorous pool deck that just screams, "Slim Aarons in Palm Beach."

As I walked around, captivated by the bougainvillea and night jasmine lining the lush walkways, I couldn't figure out why I had never heard of this special place. (All I do when I travel is look for cool things.)

It's because no one who visits wants to talk about it. They want to save it for themselves.

Being at Dunmore feels like being at someone's elegant island house party. The scene is a sea of white and aqua cabanas, billowing curtains, vintage rattan, and gently swirling ceiling fans. It's all best enjoyed with a fruity cocktail in hand.

The holiday crowd is a colorful mix of gay, straight, and Southern types drawn to the genteel pace. Children are tolerated at lunch, but this is most definitely a spot for discerning couples looking for peace and quiet.

I followed a friend's recommendation to have drinks at the Dunmore and was thereafter hooked for almost every meal. The patio dining area can be accessed from the beautiful beach below, and I walked over every day from my perch at the Pink Sands Resort (also covered on Fathom — clearly, we have a thing for Harbour Island) for a small escape into another era. Lunches are served in an airy outdoor setting. The menu is filled with exactly the kind of food I love to eat after a strenuous morning spent doing nothing at all: enormous salads with grilled grouper, local ceviches with citrus and ginger, delicate conch fritters, breadfruit fish tacos, and mountains of crispy French fries. (Why do fries taste better at the beach?)

Dinners are no less fantastic, set in an intimate dining room with vintage sailing photographs, decorative shells, and simple hanging lanterns. The food is slightly more refined in the evening but no less delicious. Sautéed red snapper with sweet plantain-bonito mash, roasted West Indian Cornish hen with Jamaican rice ‘n' peas, and other Caribbean-inflected dishes are all incredibly fresh and creative, as were house-made chocolate doughnuts and sorbets that capped the meals.

It's the details — the John Robshaw textiles, the Celerie Kemble wicker settees, the bright pink conch shells and sea fans that add touches of color — that make Dunmore so unique. If you're looking for an understated yet elegant beach escape with a bit of history and the kindest staff both thrown in for good measure, this retreat on Harbour Island's eastern shore is just about as good as it gets.

Next time around, I'm checking in.

FIND IT

The Dunmore
Dunmore Town, Harbour Island
Bahamas
+1-242-333-2200

MORE ON FATHOM

Harbour Island Essentials with Kids
Love Letter: The Landing
See the full Caribbean Guide

Eccentric bespoke spectacles from a Japanese duo

Nackymade specialises in unusual arms and hosts pop-ups across the world

Husband-and-wife team Naoki “Nacky” Nakagawa and Tomoko “Mocky” Nakagawa create quirky bespoke glasses under the name of Nackymade. Their company is based in Kobe, Japan, but stages pop-ups across the world (including several each year at The Armoury in New York and Hong Kong), and their sculptural spectacles have drawn a discerning clientele from London to Paris to Shanghai.

Nackymade glasses at The Armoury

One of Nackymade’s signature touches is eccentric arms: from dinosaur-shaped tips that tuck behind the ears, to eggplant-inspired arms (made for an ardent vegetarian) and a pair with wine-bottle-shaped sides – a bordeaux on one, a burgundy on the other – for a collector of French vintages. No request is too bizarre for the couple, who delight in working directly with their customers. “It’s rare and refreshing in this day and age to sit down across from the person who will actually be wearing your product,” says Naoki.

Nackymade glasses are renowned for their eccentric arms

No request is too bizarre for the couple, who delight in working directly with their customers

Commissioning a pair (from $900) with the gregarious duo is a fun process, and takes approximately four months from ordering to delivery.  While most of Nackymade’s orders tend to come in acetate (allowing for more inventive designs), other materials such as bamboo or various metals are available, in shapes anywhere between oval and rectangular. At an initial client meeting, measurements are taken and a style is selected. Frame width, height, lens shape and width are all taken into consideration, as are the hinges, which can range from vintage silver to cherry red.

When the finished product is ready, the Nakagawas like to perform the fitting themselves. Every pair also comes with a hard case that is a sculptural work of art in itself. “We want to provide exactly what the customer wants,” Naoki adds… even if that is a pair of panda-like specs inspired by a pair worn by Hong Kong billionaire Li Ka-shing.

In a League of Its Own: Rome's New Boutique Hotel

Rome can be a total onslaught of beauty and chaos. Fathom contributor Christina Ohly finds peace in the middle of it all at a design-driven hotel near Piazza del Popolo.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Set in a stunning 19th-century villa in the heart of Rome, Palazzo Dama is the newest (and possibly best) addition to the city's chic, boutique hotel scene. Located just steps from the bustling Piazza del Popolo, and in striking distance of the Tiber River, Spanish Steps, and gardens of Villa Borghese, the 30 rooms and suites are soothing, zen oases in the middle of the city. Designy touches courtesy of architect Antonio Girardi abound. In addition to beautifully appointed, light-filled spaces — many featuring crystal chandeliers mixed with mid-century sofas, crisp white linens, and state-of-the-art bathrooms — there is also a lovely back garden with a refreshing swimming pool. This extremely rare feature puts Palazzo Dama in a different league. As does the clubby L'Autre Dame bar, which is decorated with lithographs by Andy Warhol and Picasso and serves some of the meanest aperitivos in town.

Honey, I'm home.

Lush, cozy interiors in a junior suite.

What's New

The hotel just opened in January so everything is technically new, but there are several recent additions worth noting. While not a spa hotel per se, you'll find that every kind of massage and treatment is available in-room with just a quick phone call. Fitness facilities, an afterthought at most hotels, is nicely done with high-end, air-conditioned gym machines.

The members-only club downstairs looked positively sultry when I was there, but the real claim to fame has to be the petite swimming pool. I am still marveling at how the hoteliers got city approvals for this special feature.

Best of all: endless food and beverage options. This isn't like hotel dining, but rather like dining at an extremely aristocratic friend's house. Enjoy an Aperol spritz on the stunning rooftop terrace before a meal in L'Autre Dame downstairs.

What's on Site

Resting in the lush garden, nibbling club sandwiches served by the pool, and rubbing elbows with glamorous people in the lounge makes Palazzo Dama a sybarite's dream. In addition to the L'Autre Dame bar, the refined hotel restaurant of the same name serves beautiful pastas and wonderful fresh juices in a pristine white space. The basement gym, something of a rarity in central Rome, is impressive. The WiFi is fast and free, well-stocked minibars are free, too, and the most knowledgeable, kind front office/concierge team in town (Andrea and Gianmarco in particular) will cheerfully book you in at the the best restaurants, arrange car transfers, organize cooking classes, and reserve after-hours tours of nearby churches and museums.

Wish you were here.

The Food

Breakfast is served in the exquisite L'Autre Dame restaurant, which takes on a more relaxed atmosphere and soundtrack in the morning hours. It truly feels like eating in a laid-back, Michelin-star restaurant — and one with an expansive buffet that includes meats, cheeses, fruit and cereals, as well as an endless array of healthy juices and eggs made to order.

Lunch is outstanding as well — especially when served under an umbrella at one of the bistro tables by the pool. Simple sandwiches, burgers, and elaborate pastas are all possibilities. The kitchen will gladly make you whatever you'd like to eat, 24/7.

In the Room

Designer Antonio Girardi left his mark at the ultra-hip D.O.M. Hotel Roma (for the same owners). It has a similar feel: midcentury furnishings swathed in tasteful fabrics in hues of navy and sea green by Loro Piana. Other touches pay homage to the palazzo's original art nouveau finishes and marble mosaics, but the rooms also incorporate clean lines, Venini glass fixtures, and modern luxuries. Tasteful flat-screen TVs, well-stocked minibars, and vintage objets d'art in rooms overlooking the pool area all make this feel like a lived-in escape, a home away from home. Some of the street-facing rooms reportedly have more noise, but I didn't notice this on my tour — immense shutters are pulled at night so that visitors can't hear a thing.

Respite from the splendid chaos of Rome.

Room with a View

My junior suite faced the pool and garden and I loved watching the afternoon crowd (a few tourists) morph into a chic cocktail set by 8 p.m. 

This Place Is Perfect For

The 12+ year-old set. Palazzo Dama doesn't have a "kid" feel; it is intimate, sexy, and spare. It would make an ideal stopover on the way to a honeymoon on the Amalfi Coast, and is also perfect for a long weekend away.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone on a budget, young travelers, or families with multiple (3+) children. There are rooms and suites that join nicely for families with older children, but this is an old, historic building that isn't well-suited to crying babies or families needing several adjoining rooms. It's ideal for teenagers who need to be in proximity (by law, I suppose), but also want separate space.

Try out the unforgettable brunch and breakfast options at the restaurant and bar.

Making it hard to leave.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

The Piazza del Popolo area has everything a visitor could want: great restaurants, bars, shops, the Villa Borghese for long walks and great art, the Ara Pacis for culture, and some of the best straciatella gelato in Rome at Gelateria dei Gracchi.

What to Do Nearby

Take a short stroll from the hotel and you'll find national treasures, including the beautifully baroque Santa Maria in Montesanto church and the Museo dell'Ara Pacis, the Altar of the Augustan Peace that dates from 13 B.C. and is now housed in a sleek Richard Meier-designed space.

The area has wonderful shops including those of the larger luxury brands (the Hogan sneaker store here is the world's best; ask for things not on display) and niche Roman finds as well. One of my favorites, Artisanal Cornucopia on the sweet Via dell'Oca, is the ultimate Mediterranean-inspired concept shop and features beautiful, beachy bags by Istanbul-based designer Misela, statement-making/uber-cool jewelery by Roman designer Benedetta Bruzziches, and much more. Ask owner Elif Sallorenzo for tips — she is a font of information about not only the store's curated collections, but also about the best hidden bars and under-the-radar restaurants.

On the food front, you'll be spoiled for choice in this area of town. You can do no better than a dimly lit dinner at the hotel's L'Autre Dame. For something a bit less formal, try Da Bolognese or Rosati (Piazza del Popolo, 5a), both frequented by well-heeled tourists — but I love them anyway for solid pastas and waiters in crisp, white jackets. Best of all, however, might be drinks at the elegant Hotel Locarno. Be sure to ask for seating in the magical garden. A drink or a light lunch in the Hotel de Russie garden just around the corner runs a very close second.

Good to Know

The hotel is just nine miles from Rome's Ciampino Airport and it was, I swear, the most scenic ride I've ever had to an airport. The trip takes you over cobblestone streets, under viaducts, and through lush neighborhoods. I felt like Hadrian.

Dressed to the nines.

Suite view of Roman architecture and blue skies.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get There

Rome Fiumicino Airport is 45 minutes from the hotel and is served by American Airlines, Delta, and Alitalia. In-country flights also depart from this airport, and many to the rest of Europe (British Airways) as well.

BOOK IT

Rates start from $348. Click here for reservations.

Where to Go from NYC: Haute Hippie Rhinebeck

One of the best escapes 100 miles from midtown Manhattan is the village of Rhinebeck, New York — a "haute hippie" sort of place situated near the Hudson River. The town features an eclectic mix of architecture, sustainable dining, and residents (and weekenders) from all walks of life. It's a great place year-round, but summer features some of the best farmers' markets, antiques shows, and country fairs you'll find anywhere. 



HOW TO GET THERE

Amtrak runs from Penn Station to Rhinecliff-Kingston in Rhinebeck, and you can call for cabs to get around. But the best move is getting your hands on a steering wheel and driving the scenic Taconic Parkway.

WHERE TO STAY

You're not going to find a lot of five-star establishments in Rhinebeck, and that's what keeps the area feeling small and special. Get a room at the centrally located Beekman Arms (the oldest inn in America, by the way) where you'll be in striking distance of morning coffee and croissants from Bread Alone, newspapers galore, cute shops full of antiques, and Stickles, a good ol' five-and-dime store that kids adore. If you're looking for a more boutique feel, head north to Tivoli, where the Madalin Hotel has eleven newly renovated rooms by the designers of NYC's Chelsea Hotel. Old-school touches (nice innkeeper, no key cards) mix with new-school style (flat screens, WiFi), not to mention Madalin's Table, a tavern and dining room with awesome grass-fed beef burgers, seared cod, grilled vegetable pizzas, and kid's pastas du jour. There's also a wide porch where you can savor a little Sauvignon blanc and watch the world pass — very slowly — by.

WHERE TO EAT

Food (in every form) is the biggest game in town. Balance a high-end dinner at Le Petit Bistro with killer ice cream cones from Del's Dairy Creme (7775 Albany Post Road) where $2 still buys an enormous swirl of soft-serve goodness. Everything in town is kid-friendly, but the highlight for all ages is Gigi's Trattoria, where a bustling outdoor patio, homemade butternut squash gnocchi, and "skizzas" (thin-crust pizzas in unique combinations such as porchetta with fennel salami, red onion, tomato, and mozzarella) make for a mellow evening.

More Italian goodness happens at Mercato Osteria & Enoteca in nearby Red Hook. There's a vaguely Tuscan ambiance and a blackboard of the day's farm fresh specials. Meals are lovingly prepared by seventh-generation pasta man Francesco Buitoni, who incorporates wild leeks and sweet sausage from nearby Northwind Farms with spectacularly fresh fish and risottos (wild mushroom, smoked salmon, asparagus). Save room for the flourless chocolate cake.

Other great foodie bets in the vicinity: The Local, chef Wes Dier's latest "eclectic New American" addition to the community (high marks for the phyllo-wrapped Coach Farm goat cheese with Sky Farm lettuces, fig jam, onions, and crostini); Osaka, for steaming steak terikayi dinners that will delight kids; and Garden Street Cafe at Rhinebeck Health Foods (24 Garden Street), for a picnic of "Avocado Supreme" sandwiches and a serious vegan vibe.

WHAT TO DO

Bard College's SummerScape series offers a fantastic mix of opera, dance, theater, and film. Kids will love the sometimes freaky acts (acrobats, aerialists) in the glittering Spiegel Tent.

Spend a Saturday or Sunday checking out the bi-planes at the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome (June through October 16th). Peep automobiles and motorcycles from the golden "barnstorming" era of aviation, and watch an air show of sky-high twists and turns — complete with flying aces and billowing neck scarves. After watching planes swoop, you'll want to head to Wilderstein, an immense Queen Anne style country house-turned-museum surrounded by walking trails. If possible, plan your trip around the Dutchess County Fair, an extravaganza of fried dough and rides that happens in late August. Little kids can go nuts with bumper cars and livestock competitions, strolling performers and live bands.

WHERE TO SHOP

There are a lot of stylish ex-city folk around, and Rhinebeck doesn't disappoint in the retail arena. No Sugar has sweet separates for little kiddies from brands like 3 Pommes and 7AM, as well as unique pieces for grown-ups. For a carefully edited selection of things for the home visit Hammertown (conveniently located next door to Gigi's Trattoria). Peruse reading material and music at Oblong Books, a classic book shop hub with meaningful staff picks and readings by local authors. Paper Trail stocks cards and gifts by small letterpress printers from across the country. There will be no shortage of souvenirs.

FOR YOUR BEDSIDE TABLE


Edible Hudson
Hudson Valley Magazine

The World's Most Romantic Hotels: The Caribbean

All Great Romances start with setting and end with action. Throw in a beach and let the sparks fly.

Jump to: Antigua | Bahamas | Cuba | Jamaica | St. Barts | St. Lucia | St. Vincent and the Grenadines | Turks and Caicos

ANTIGUA

Carlisle Bay
Where: St. Mary's, Antigua
What's to Love: There is a European vibe here that makes it feel far away. Very good spa, beach barbecues, and minimalist, tasteful rooms add to the overall Zen aesthetic. For true romance, book dinner on the jetty — just the two of you, delicious tuna tartare, and a lot of votive candles.

Curtain Bluff Resort
Where: Curtain Bluff, Antigua
What's to Love: It isn't immediately apparent, but this place will grow on you in a huge way. There are limitless activities, tennis, squash, a killer spa with masseuses from the Aman Resorts. There are no in-room TVs and it's slightly hokey — communal cocktail parties, everything is included — but somehow it all really works. The snorkeling excursions are the best anywhere. Just you and two personal guides who know every ray, fish, and coral in the sea. No need to pre-book, just show up at the dock.

Jumby Bay
Where: Jumby Bay Island, Antigua
What's to Love: It's. A. Private. Island. In. The. Caribbean. Just you and 300 car-free acres off the Antigua coast on an island discovered by Christopher Columbus. Newly renovated in post-Colonial style. Water is everywhere. The treatment to get at Sense, A Rosewood Spa, is the one where you're in the hammock and the therapist fixes everything.

BAHAMAS

The Dunmore
Where: Harbour Island, Bahamas
What's to Love: It's in the details, the textiles, the wicker settees, the glamorous pool deck that screams, "Slim Aarons in Palm Beach." Bougainvillea and night jasmine line the lush walkways leading to the sixteen cheerful guest cottages. The patio dining area can be accessed from the beach below. If you don't live here, at least go for a meal.
Read More on Fathom: Pretty Little Secret: A Chic Bahamas Retreat

The Landing
Where: Harbour Island
What's to Love: I found this house very charming and romantic. There wasn't a particular reason, but the whole experience made my weekend unique. The pink-sand beach, the vintage hotel bar, the music they were playing, the rain at night, the book I was reading, the horseback riding on the beach. It was all very special.

Laid-back luxe. Photo courtesy of The Other Side.

The Other Side
Where: Eleuthera, Bahamas
What's to Love: A romantic compound of exquisite tented structures (think Out of Africa meets Mustique), this is the place to truly disconnect from the outside world. Accessed by private launch, the property has a chic house party vibe; guests wander in and out of the great house for simple meals of grilled fish before retiring into the stunning pool that juts out over the turquoise bay, with views of Harbour Island beyond. Proprietors Ben Simmons and Charlie Phelan have thought of every understated detail so the food is delicious, the honor bar well-stocked, and morning yoga is available for those who don't sleep in. Low-key luxury at its very finest.

CUBA

Casa Vitrales
Where: Old Havana
What's to Love: I love, love, love this boutique guesthouse in Old Havana where Carla and I spent six days this Christmas. The six-room guesthouse is charming and well-located, and you are looked after like royalty.

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Havana meets Palm Beach. Photo courtesy of Playa Grande Beach Club.

Playa Grande Beach Club
Playa Grande, Dominican Republic
What's to Love: Once you arrive you will not sign a single check, you will not see a single plastic lounge chair, you will not wear your shoes again. You will, however, be immersed in an enchanted beach hotel that is half Old Havana, half Palm Beach, all laid-back luxury. What to bring: your book, sundress, and lover. What not to bring: your iPad. Put that shit down.

JAMAICA

GoldenEye Hotel and Resort
Where: Oracabessa Bay, Jamaica
What's to Love: Originally the private retreat of Ian Fleming, it's where he wrote all his James Bond novels. A lush and fragrant jungle setting, you'd have to be a rock not to feel the romance of this sexy place. Prepare for midnight swims in the calm, warm lagoon. Pack a white bikini for full effect.

Jakes
Where: Treasure Beach, Jamaica
What's to love: Each Gaudi-inspired tiny bungalow is crazy in a different way, but most open directly onto the water. Take a boat out to the lunch shack, raised above a beautiful ocean sandbar, that only serves lunch until the fresh fish runs out and the chef heads home in his skiff. The glass bottle bottoms set into the walls of the outdoor shower reflect the light off the water for a magical effect. And once a year, 5,000 Jamaicans converge here for the most fabulous literary festival in the world. Reggae all night.

Round Hill
Where: Montego Bay, Jamaica
What's to Love: A gorgeous estate with incredible gardens, it's like a lush location from a 1960s James Bond film come to life. There are not one, but two bars along the beach. Past guests have included JFK and Jackie on honeymoon and the Babe Paley set.

The Caves
Where: Negril, Jamaica
What's to Love: Another of Chris Blackwell's pretty incredible Island Outpost chain. Chic whitewashed rooms, great food, even better service, and incredible views Don't be surprised if you jump off the cliff. Everyone does.

ST. BARTS

Hotel Isle de France
Where: Flamands
What's to Love: So many great things about it, not least of which is its idyllic location on the beach, one of the best on the island. Nearby Colombier Beach is a hike or a boat ride away, and the hotel will pack you a picnic lunch.

Le Sereno
Where: St. Barts
What's to Love: Le Sereno attracts the loveliest of rich bohemians and filters out the island's tres gauche (think: Nikki Beach). But none of that really matters because you're too busy kissing your dreamy lover, tossing off your Missoni bikini top, and melting into the latest French Vogue to notice anything but your nonstop, pinch-me-now, inner-bliss at this gorgeous paradise of a hotel. Ask the hotel to arrange a motorbike (if you have any biking skills whatsoever) and use it. Grab baguettes and fromage at the local grocer and discover St. Bart's ultra beautiful beaches.

Le Toiny
Where: Anse de Toiny
What's to Love: The bungalows are one-bedroom houses with spectacular views of ocean, mountains, and rugged terrain — everything but other buildings or people. Rooms have a palatial bath and a private pool surrounded by a terrace large enough to accommodate couples massage tables. It's not cheap, but summer rates are half what Larry Ellison pays in January.

ST. LUCIA

Ladera Resort
Where: St. Lucia
What's to Love: None of the rooms have a fourth wall, so you wake up every morning with the sun rising over the Piton Mountains. Get a room with a plunge pool so you never have to leave.

Sugar Beach
Where: St Lucia
What's to Love: The low-key, high-budget combination of intimate villas in an informal setting. A recent $100 million+ redo has resulted in minimalist, tasteful cottages with plunge pools and features both modern (WiFi, flat-screen TVs) and low-tech (ceiling fans and atmospheric mosquito net canopies). It's not easy to get to St. Lucia is a haul, and Sugar Beach whisks guests from the airport straight to their suites — no check-in or paperwork necessary — where cold drinks, a butler await, unpacking, and laudry services await.
Read more on Fathom: Paradise Found in Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

Photo courtesy of Sugar Beach.

ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

Cotton House
Where: Mustique, The Grenadines
What's to Love: This place is tough to get to, so it keeps other people away. Rooms are utterly simple — billowing linens and soothing, neutral tones — with tasteful plunge pools so you never really have to leave your suite. Dinner is freshly caught lobster on the veranda; there's a weekly island cocktail party in case you feel like socializing. Bring lots of sunscreen. The rays are seriously strong here.

Firefly Mustique
Where: Mustique, The Grenadines
What's to Love: Location, location, location. This hard to access island is a couple's paradise with crystalline waters, white sand beaches, and killer cocktails. Add to that chic simple rooms with views of spectacular sunsets, and Firefly is about as close to nirvana as it gets.
Good to Know: Book a table on the cliff-hanging terrace for fresh, imaginatively prepared seafood. Local barracuda, Caribbean crab backs, and delicious curries are all wonderful. Star sightings often include the likes of Mick Jagger and the odd royal, which adds to the overall mystique of this magical place.

Petit Saint Vincent
Where: Petit St. Vincent, The Grenadines
What's to love: The 115-acre private island was developed in the 1960s, with 22 free-standing Blue Bitch (that's really the name) beach chic stone cottages. It has always attracted a moneyed, famous, and infamous crowd who seek a tropical hideaway where they can check in and be left alone. Ask for #117, the most secluded cottage at the southernmost tip of the island, for its private beach and (perhaps) a clothing-optional frolic-filled stay. (Allegedly, it's a favorite of Daniel Craig.) If you're feeling antsy, charter Beauty, the property's wooden sloop, to sail to Tobago Cays for snorkeling and turtle-watching or a jaunt to Union Island for lunch.

TURKS AND CAICOS

Amanyara
Where: Providenciales, Turks and Caicos
What's to Love: Gorgeous private oceanfront cabins with sexy decor, private pools, and outdoor showers. It's a cool, low-key celeb scene. And at Amanyara, the answer is always yes.

COMO Parrot Cay
Where: Providenciales, Turks and Caicos
What's To Love: Timeless colonial vibes on your own private island with fresh, healthy, gourmet food. The holistic COMO Shambhala Spa is on-site, and service and attention to detail are impeccable. Sitting by the powdery beach is out of the Corona commercial; the water is that clear. Great scuba diving and private partner yoga on the beach at sunset. Bring home hard-to-find COMO products and get your chakras in check.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

The World's Most Romantic Hotels

Contributors: Ingrid Bernstein, Malika Dalamal, Kate Donnelly, Christina Ohly Evans, Nancy Hunt, Kerry Kane, Steven Learner, Jonathan Mir, Dana Hazels Seith, Alyssa Shelasky, Margaret Spencer, Rima Suqi, Terese Svoboda, Rett Wallace, Sheri Warshaw.

The World's Most Romantic Hotels: The Northeastern United States

Honeymoons, anniversaries, engagements, make-ups — there are plenty of reasons to be amorous. Find love in all the right places with this list of romantic destinations in the northeast United States.

Jump to: Connecticut | Maine | Massachusetts | New York | Rhode Island | Vermont | Washington, D.C. | Canada

CONNECTICUT

The Mayflower Grace
Washington, Connecticut
What's to Love: Set on 50-plus unspoiled acres in rolling Litchfield Hills, this is the spot to snowshoe, read by the fire, and languish in the hotel's gleaming, serene spa.
Good to Know: Don't miss a meal at their soothing restaurant, which serves hyper-local everything, like upscale cinnamon doughnuts with housemade cinnamon ice cream.
Read more on Fathom: The Hotel Is Great, But You Should See the Spa

Photo courtesy of Mayflower Inn and Spa.

MAINE

White Barn Inn
Kennebunk Beach, Maine
What's to Love: : Located in coastal Maine, which is by definition wicked far, the hotel is part of the luxurious yet laid back Relais & Chateaux hotel group. No detail is overlooked, from the names of the private cottages (such as Gull and Loon) to the fireplaces, sumptuous linens, and every imaginable amenity.
Good to Know: Foodies pilgrimage here for chef Jonathan Cartwright's inventive takes on New England cuisine served in a reimagined barn setting, complete with flattering candlelight and impeccable (read: unobtrusive) service. This is one of the most romantic meals you'll likely ever share. And local lobster on fettucine is a must.

MASSACHUSETTS

Blantyre
Lenox
What's to Love: One of a dozen Gilded Age "cottages" left in the Berkshires, the country resort and estate just outside cute-as-can-be Lenox is now under new ownership, but the important things haven't changed. Namely, the beautiful Tudor House is still perfectly appointed, with crystal carafes set out for wine in the lounge, elaborate chandeliers, overstuffed sofas, huge and beautiful rooms with four-poster beds and fireplaces, and an excellent restaurant.
Good to Know: Make sure to meet the in-house historian, David Pupo, who tells great stories about former owners (including filmmaker D.W. Griffith) and the antics the house has seen. 
Read More on Fathom: The Gilded Age Fantasy Is Alive and Thriving at Blantyre

Old Inn on the Green
New Marlborough
What's to Love: The pre-Revolutionary restaurant and candlelit inn was a popular stagecoach stop in 1760. The antique decor is streamlined and sophisticated. And incredibly cozy.
Good to Know: There are several intimate dining room nooks with roaring fires and exceptional (local, seasonal) tasting menus.

Red Lion Inn
Stockbridge
What's to Love: The old-fashioned birdcage elevator, a wraparound porch, a tavern that serves hearty stews, and the Lions Den for pints.
Good to Know: Bonus charm: It opened in 1773 as a stagecoach stop and has been welcoming guests ever since.

Wheatleigh Hotel
Lenox
What's to Love: Very romantic year-round, but especially during the winter months when you can make the most of your in-room fireplace. The gardens were designed by Frederick Olmstead, and the restaurant is incredible.
Good to Know: Tanglewood, the summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, is just down the road. Pack and a picnic and enjoy sonatas under the stars.
Read More on Fathom: See our Berkshires Itinerary for tips on what to do, eat, and see.

NEW YORK

Buttermilk Falls
Milton
What's to Love: Low key but high-end and cool, with a fabulous spa, nice food, and lots private room options. The Pony Pad is a little house with a fireplace.
Good to Know: Take a hike around Minnewaska State Park for views of the Shawgagunk Mountain Ridge and Lake Minnewaska at any time of year (don't forget a thermos of hot chocolate in winter). Revive après-hike at The Village Tearoom.
Read More on Fathom: See our Hudson Valley Itinerary for tips on what to do, eat, and see.

Crosby Street Hotel
New York
What's to Love: The design-driven hotel mixes eclectic art, bold contemporary interiors, and a plethora of daring colors and fabrics that, in a rare occurrence, doesn't detract from its homely charm.
Good to Know: That this is all in the middle of busy SoHo makes it even more charming. The neighborhood is all quiet cobbled streets, artisan shops, street stalls, hidden bars, and amazing eateries that span from high-end restaurants to hole-in-the-wall burger joints. It's definitely a place you can lose yourself.

The Lowell
New York
What's to Love: Evoking everything that's wonderful about old-school, discreet uptown, the intimate boutique hotel feels so timeless that it would be so easy to ignore Central Park and Museum Mile (mere steps away) and lose yourself inside.
Good to Know: Make sure to have a meal there, even though there are many options within a short walk, to make it an extra sumptuous experience. Start with cocktails at Jacques Bar, followed by a Mediterranean-infused French meal at Majorelle. Settle for a nightcap in the deep sofas in the Club Room, then wander upstairs, where the fireplace is roaring at the foot of your bed. Wake up, have room service on the terrace, and do the whole thing all over again.

Glenmere Mansion
Chester
What's to Love: All the Gilded Age trappings needed for a night of romance — grand cortile, marble staircase, garden terraces, and formal gardens for indiscreet canoodling.
Good to Know: All that European elegance (and a full-service spa), just 50 miles from Manhattan.

Photo courtesy of Glenmere Mansion.

Ham House
Tivoli
What's to Love: Gorgeous restored mansion on a hill in the perfectly picturesque upstate hamlet of Tivoli. The bridal suite has views of the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains, and the extensive vintage decor was done by a former antiques dealer.
Good to Know: Feels like staying in a palace, and you can take a hike right out your door. Saul Bellow wrote Herzog and Henderson the Rain King while living here. Also, this is a small operation. If the website isn't working, you can always call them:  +1-845-757-3424
Read More on Fathom: See our Hudson Valley Itinerary and Catskills Itinerary for tips on what to do, eat, and see.

Inn at Windmill Lane
Amagansett, New York
What's to Love: Classically modern cottages and suites with ridiculously lavish amenities: Duxiana beds, private exercise rooms, rain showers, preferred tee times at Montauk Downs Golf Club.
Good to Know: Prices go way down off-season, and it's very quiet and cozy.

Kayak Camping
Saranac Lake
What's to Love: Not a hotel but rather an experience. Each of the dozens of tiny islands in the Saranac lake chain has individual campsites you can rent. Like having your own private island for $15. The only way to get to the islands is by boat, so you rent a kayak to get there.
Good to Know: Don't forget firewood, a cozy tent, lots of wine, and great food. Make a weekend of it. Beyond blissful, and super cheap.

Lafayette House
New York City
What's to Love: A narrow brocade-and-chandelier-filled boarding house conjures fantasties of urban living circa 1880. The place feels like a find — there is no signage, front desk, or hotel lobby.
Good to Know: Rooms vary in size and style. Ground floor suites share a backyard patio.
Read More on Fathom: See our NYC Guide for restaurants, sites, shopping, and nightlife ideas, as well as our list of Most Romantic Restaurants in NYC.

Monteverde at Oldstone Manor
Cortlandt Manor
What's to Love: Two-room inn and new seven-room garden house with gorgeous views of the Hudson River Valley, which doesn't have as many nice hotel options as it should. Great on-site spa and restaurant.
Good to Know: It's the best place to stay when you're making a trip out of dinner at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, a short drive away.

The Pierre
New York City
What's to Love: Old-world glamour and service and location, location, location. All that New York has to offer is steps away and the hotel's perch on Central Park offers some of the best views in the city.
Good to Know: The high tea is delightful, and the hotel's complimentary BMW makes quick junkets to the theater or a downtown restaurant effortless.
Read More on Fathom: Go Big and Opulent at This Old-World Central Park Hotel

The NoMad Hotel
New York City
What's to Love: The Beaux Arts show-stopper designed by Jacques Garcia has a cozy library, swanky drinking dens, and several dining alcoves — meaning there's plenty of places to show off your hot date. The dining atrium is run by the exceptional team from Eleven Madison Park.
Good to Know: Clawfoot bathtubs, Sferra bathrobes, and antique writing desks channel romantic notions of Paris.

Photo courtesy of NoMad Hotel.

RHODE ISLAND

The Chanler
Newport
What's to Love: Imagine Americana wallpapered in luxury and plastered in WASP. The Chanler is the only hotel on Newport's breathtaking, crazy romantic Cliff Walk. It's surrounded by rugged nature, endless ocean, and OMFG mansions — and has an exquisite food program has all the fancy (and wannabe fancy) New Englanders aflutter.
Good to Know: Every room has a jacuzzi which can be filled with rose petals upon request. Yes, really. And with ongoing series like "Scotch & Cigars" and "More Bubbles," it seems that every hour is cocktail o'clock. Here's to that.

The Ocean House
Watch Hill
What's to Love: Gorgeous hotel overlooking the beach and the quaint, picturesque seaside village. Ideal for summertime seaside fun and indulging in pure Americana at its baronial best.
Good to Know: The couple's room at the spa has a private hydro-soaking tub and deluge shower.
Read More on Fathom: A Few Days In: Watch Hill

The Weekapaug Inn
Weekapaug, Rhode Island
What's to Love: The old-school yet updated Relais & Chateaux property sits on scenic Weekapaug Pond and offers a respite from reality: no TVs (unless requested), sumptuous rooms, low-tech games (remember shuffleboard?), as well as sailboats for sunset cruises. Excellent cuisine including local lobster and organic vegetables of sizes/colors you've never seen before.
Good to Know: Guests can use the fantastic facilities at the nearby Ocean House, including the spa, squash courts, and dinner on the porch overlooking the Atlantic.

Photo by Geri Abdoo / Courtesy of Weekapaug Inn.

VERMONT

The Pitcher Inn
Warren
What's to Love: Only eleven rooms, each with its own design theme and decor. Of special note, Mountain and Ski rooms. The restaurant is outstanding, and the downstairs bar/game lounge is great, especially after a day on the slopes.
Good to Know: The country store across the street is just as postcard-perfect — and serves great sandwiches. You're only a short drive from the Sugarbush and Mad River Glen ski areas. American Flatbread, a very special pizza restaurant found in a barn, is also nearby — and an absolute must.

Twin Farms
Barnard
What's to Love: Tastefully appointed everything, smack in the middle of nowhere. Super private, homey, and, even when full, feels like you have the place to yourself. Individual cottages are decorated with the owner's incredible art collection. Hushed, darkened dining room is set up so that all parties face the fireplace and kitchen sticks to local goods even in the depths of winter. Meals are made to order according to a pre-arrival food questionnaire; you never see a menu.
Good to Know: Go here instead of the nearby ski resorts: There are a half dozen downhill trails on the property and the most fun thing ever is that they cart you around the mountain on snowmobiles. Hit the furo (Japanese soaking tub) on a cold snowy night — a car service brings you to and from the tiny shack which is hidden in the woods.

WASHINGTON, D.C.

Hotel Tabard Inn
Washington, D.C.
What's to Love: There's little that's truly romantic in the nation's capital. But this quirky inn has so much Americana charm, it almost makes up for the lack everywhere else.
Good to Know: Every room is different and some have shared baths. Room 26 has a grand piano, but book ahead because it's often used for events.

CANADA

Note: Sorry, Canada. We don't have a guide for you yet. But we're working on it!

Clayoquat Wilderness Resort
Tofino, Canada
What's to Love: At the stunning Vancouver Island eco-safari, they craft bespoke expeditions in the remote wilderness of British Columbia, like mountain river kayaking, hot spring hiking, and bear and whale watching, to name a few. When you're in the temperate rainforests of Pacific Rim National Park, you and boo are snug between the covers in one of twenty luxury canvas tents furnished with old-world rugs, antiques, and heirloom china.

Fogo Island Inn
Newfoundland and Labrador
What's to Love: The island is remote and rugged, but the retreat is a hyper-modern salt box with solar panels and steel stilts that rise up from craggy mores and Arctic Ocean ice floats. Every textile and piece of furniture is made locally by hand; the kitchen scours the island for every meal. The characters at the bar (woodworkers, fishermen, foragers) are priceless.
Good to Know: Beyond the rooftop sauna and your personal wood-burning stove, you can get cozy on a skiff as it heads out to the magical offshore Little Fogo Islets.

Photo by Alex Fradkin / Courtesy of Fogo Island Inn.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

The World's Most Romantic Hotels

Contributors: Becca Bergman Bull, Scott Conant, Eric Demby, Kate Donnelly, Christina Ohly Evans, Stephanie March, Erin Murray, Alyssa Shelasky, Beth Silverman, Lockhart Steele, Angela Tribelli, Sheri Warshaw.