Mikaela Shiffrin’s guide to Colorado

The skier and two-time Olympic gold medallist shares the charms of her mountain home in the Vail Valley

I was born in the Vail Valley and, except for a few years in middle school and high school, this part of Colorado has always been home. When I am not travelling, I live in the small town of Edwards with my mom. I came to realise just how important this place is when my dad died suddenly two years ago. The whole valley came together to support our family – they took care of us, fed us – and that allowed me to get back to Europe and to racing all over the world.

The valley towns – Vail, Gypsum, Eagle, Avon, Beaver Creek, Minturn, Red Cliff and Edwards – make up a tight-knit community and everyone loves to ski. Edwards is particularly beautiful, with mountainous terrain in all directions. While Vail is more of a hotspot, Edwards has an under-the-radar feel and is full of local colour. When I have free time – which isn’t often in season – I chill out at the retro Riverwalk Theater, which screens the latest movies in old-school surroundings. For a burger and a local beer afterwards, Craftsman is a great spot, possibly followed by a stop at Sundae for handmade ice cream and waffle cones.

There is so much good skiing here, but one of my earliest powder experiences was at Forever – the aptly named area in Vail’s legendary alpine basin, the Sun Down Bowl – that feels as if it goes on forever. And check out Copper Mountain for some amazing groomers [ski runs that are kept smooth and consistent by machine]. It’s the home of our US Ski Team Speed and Tech Center, one of our official training sites, and where we spend a lot of time prior to the bulk of the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships season. When I’m shopping for outdoor gear, I like Axel’s for Norwegian-inspired, “mountain elegant” cashmere sweaters, while Gorsuch in Vail carries everything from knit hats to designer ski clothing – and the Gorsuch Ski Service Center in Eagle-Vail is the place to get equipment tuned. Ask for technician Jonathan Weyant, who does an excellent job. In Edwards, I favour Kind Bikes and Skis and my other go-to is Oakley, for goggles and glasses.

When I’m recommending hotels, I usually think of The Arrabelle at Vail Square, set in the middle of Lionshead Village. It has a Swiss chalet feel and is a good ski-in, ski-out option – and it’s also perfect for summer hiking and mountain biking up to Golden Peak. Then there’s The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa in Avon, where I do my workouts and where you have the best views of the river and Beaver Creek beyond. The restaurant here – Maya – serves chef Richard Sandoval’s excellent take on traditional Mexican recipes such as pork carnitas and spicy jumbo prawn fajitas and the room is always very lively.

Outside of ski season, there is the Bravo! Vail Music Festival that runs from late June to early August and features world-class symphony orchestras, such as the New York Philharmonic and the Philadelphia Orchestra – at venues like the beautiful Gerald R Ford Amphitheatre. That’s followed by the Vail Dance Festival at the end of July. And the Gourmet on Gore culinary festival marks the end of summer, offering everything from food trucks to dishes from the area’s top chefs.

As I prepare for the Olympics, I’ll be thinking about home and the Valley – and I’ll be keeping everyone in my heart as I try to do my best for our country and Team USA.

When to go: July and August offer warm days and cool nights, while December to April is best for peak ski conditions

Curator Thelma Golden talks taste

The director of The Studio Museum loves the view from her window, her Kara Walker pitcher and the Harlem Chocolate Factory

My personal style signifiers are bold, colourful dresses and skirts, made possible by the amazing designs of my husband, Duro Olowu. He has a masterful use of colour, pattern and form and his graphic dresses allow me to make a full statement.

The last thing I bought and loved was a pair of Nike Air Rift sneakers. This might have been my first new pair in 20 years, and I like them because I have so much nostalgia for the prior iteration. Over the past year I have spent so much time walking in my community, and these sneakers are helping me to discover New York City anew.

Golden’s vintage YSL dress for festive occasions © Makeda Sandford

Her Nike Air Rift Breathe sneakers © Makeda Sandford

And on my wishlist is an Agnes Baddoo tote. She’s an LA-based accessories designer and I am eyeing one of the beautiful “sacs” from her new range of colours that includes olive and deep purple. I love her commitment to high-quality production. Her bags are so useable and take me through my whole day. Belt Sac, from $350, agnesbaddoo.com

My favourite room in my house is my living room. I live in an open-plan loft, so the living room is the centre of the space and has incredible light and views out to the streets of Harlem. I can see over the treetops of Morningside Park, the dome of the Cathedral of St John the Divine and Alison Saar’s Harriet Tubman Memorial below. This room feels serene, but I love the street life and energy just outside.

Golden’s Agnes Baddoo Sac 2 bag © Makeda Sandford

Ceramic bowls by Theaster Gates – Golden’s favourite souvenir © Makeda Sandford

Golden wears a ring by Art Smith, bought from the dealer Mark McDonald © Makeda Sandford

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a ceramic bowl by Theaster Gates from his Chicago studio. I also recently found a vase at Paula Greif Ceramics on a recent trip to Hudson, New York, with my friend the artist Glenn Ligon. paulagreifceramics.com

The best books I’ve read in the past year are many! So much of my time has been spent reading and re-reading books that are important to me. One of the highlights was Daphne Brooks’s Liner Notes for the Revolution. It’s a history of black women musicians, from Aretha Franklin to Bessie Smith to Beyoncé, and shows how they’ve informed intellectual life and the black female sound.

Some of Golden’s favourite reads of the past year © Makeda Sandford

A recent “find” is the artisan Harlem Chocolate Factory. Its Golden Brownstone Gift Set includes chocolate bars shaped like traditional brownstones that are dusted with gold and reflect the neighbourhood’s rich history. $60, harlemchocolatefactory.com

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a vintage YSL dress. It’s black with multicoloured polka dots and a bow at the neck. I love this style and bought it with the hope and promise of upcoming festive occasions. resee.com

Golden at home in New York © Makeda Sandford

The podcasts I’m listening to are The New Yorker Radio Hour; Kai Wright’s The United States of Anxiety; On Being with Krista Tippett; Questlove Supreme; and Brooke DeVard’s Naked Beauty podcast, which looks at beauty through the lens of culture. New York Public Radio’s The Brian Lehrer Show is essential for the latest local and national news. All of that is just the tip of the iceberg. My days are filled with meetings and calls, so listening to podcasts in the early mornings and late at night is a form of relaxation.

My style icon is the late actress Roxie Roker, who played Helen Willis in the 1970s TV series The Jeffersons. Her pleated skirt and blouse combinations, her great capes and chic wraps – she embodied the style of that era and of being a modern woman. I viewed her with awe. Her style remains the epitome of elegance and sophistication.

“Black Is Beautiful” onesies from The Studio Museum © Makeda Sandford

The best gifts I’ve given recently are “Black Is Beautiful” onesies to some new humans who have just come into the world. $20, studiomuseum.org

And the best gift I’ve received recently is a Lorna Simpson merino-wool blanket. It’s incredibly soft, measures 5ft by 8ft when unfurled and really is representative of her body of work. This amazing blanket was made in celebration of my 20 years of leadership at the Studio Museum and I’m honoured to have the prototype. $1,200, hauserwirth.com

My grooming and wellbeing gurus include hair stylist Edris Nicolls, who has done my hair for years, and facialist Crystal Greene of Crystal Greene Studio in Hudson Square. For fitness, I rely on trainer Tiffany Mason at Harlem Pilates and also my good friend Elena Brower for strengthening yoga. elenabrower.com

Golden’s merino blanket by the artist Lorna Simpson © Makeda Sandford

Her grandmother’s colander – one of her most treasured objects © Makeda Sandford

In my fridge you’ll always find Oatly oat milk, Trader Joe’s pineapple juice, Olipop root beer and Serengeti chai tea. There are endless condiments, including Tamarind Oh! from Essie Spice that I use on everything from poultry to vegetables. I also have greens from the Harlem Farmers’ Market, and there is always ice cream from Sugar Hill Creamery. They once named a flavour for me – Golden Chai – and I’m hoping they’ll bring it back.

I have a collection of limited-edition functional objects by a range of artists. One of my most prized is a sculptural pitcher by Kara Walker. I also have a set of plates from the Coalition for the Homeless project that includes designs by Derrick Adams and Adam Pendleton. These objects allow me to have these artists in my life in ways outside of the museum.

The objects I would never part with are my grandparents’ and my parents’ things: a colander that I saw in use throughout my entire life; my mother’s crystal serving bowl; the china that my father bought for my grandmother in Japan, when he served in the army; the 1970s ashtray that my parents bought in Spain; and my father’s pocket squares.

An indulgence I would never forgo is an Ethiopian spice mix called berbere. I was introduced to it by chef and restaurateur Marcus Samuelsson of Red Rooster in Harlem, and it has so informed my approach to cooking and being adventurous with flavour. It’s a mild chilli spice, but with hints of citrus and smoke.

Glenn Ligon’s limited-edition plate, Warm Broad Glow, 2005, for The Coalition for the Homeless’ Artist Plate Project © Makeda Sandford

Golden’s bust of WEB Du Bois by Inge Hardison © Makeda Sandford

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Alma Thomas. When I was a student at Smith College, I got an internship at The Studio Museum in Harlem where I learned about her work. Her story inspired me and set me on my career path. She was deeply engaged in the civic life of Washington, DC, and in 1972, she was the first African-American woman to exhibit at the Whitney Museum of American Art. I’d like any of her paintings; I adore her work. We also share a birthday – 22 September – so I feel a connection to her spirit.

The beauty staples I’m never without include Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Infatuated Red; Pattern Heavy Conditioner for Coilies; Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum; Hyper Clear Brightening Clearing Vitamin C Serum; Hanahana Beauty Shea Body Butter; and, last but not least, Ami Cole Lip Treatment Oil, which moisturises and adds a hint of colour. Ami Cole Lip Treatment Oil, $20. Hanahana Shea Body Butter, $28. Hyper Clear Brightening Clearing Vitamin C Serum, £32. Pattern Heavy Conditioner for Coilies, $25. Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum, $185

The work of art that changed everything for me was a bust of WEB Du Bois by the artist Inge Hardison, who was a friend of my mom’s. Hardison was a sculptor in the ’60s who created busts of prominent African-Americans – Frederick Douglass, Sojourner Truth, Dr Martin Luther King. This piece was probably the first work by an artist that I seriously engaged with as a child.

A recent discovery – the Words of Art card game © Makeda Sandford

I’ve recently discovered Words of Art by Catherine Gund. It’s a collaborative card game that uses art from renowned collector/philanthropist Agnes Gund’s private collection as a prompt for conversation and connection. $37.50, penguinrandomhouse.com

The websites and apps I use most are The New York Times, Artforum, ARTnews and Artnet. Then Todoist for organised listmaking and Audm for discovering long-form journalism. The last music I downloaded was Jason Moran’s The Sound Will Tell You. The piano recording came out at the same time as an exhibition of his works on paper, and I love that it was inspired by Toni Morrison. I am currently listening and re-listening to anything by Joni Mitchell, Laraaji Clay’s Moon Piano and Esperanza Spalding’s Songwrights Apothecary Lab, which is mesmerising, hypnotic and fills me with emotion.

The gadget I couldn’t do without is a Chef’n Looseleaf Kale and Herb Stripper for cleaning mustard greens and collard greens. I learned about it on Instagram Live, and it’s been the most amazing innovation for me as it saves so much prep time. $11.95, surlatable.com

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a film producer or a talk-show host because I love the opportunity to connect with creative people. I’ve always been a huge film buff, so this would be an excellent second career.

Cult Shop: consciously sourced cool in California wine country

A self-styled antidote to throwaway culture, Carter and Co showcases artisanal homeware, sustainable fashion and local produce

I’m not into throwaway culture,” says artist, potter and sculptor Richard Carter. “People increasingly want things that are handmade, environmentally sensitive and can’t be found elsewhere. They also want to meet the makers and hear their stories.” After seeing empty storefronts in the Napa Valley town of St Helena, he put his beliefs into practice and in May 2019 opened Carter and Co, a lifestyle store selling artisanal homeware, sustainable fashion and locally sourced produce. Carter set about a meticulous restoration of a 19th-century store – which had been first a butcher’s, then a tailor’s and later an antiques shop. “I felt its soul and history immediately,” says Carter of the now soaring, light-filled space with its white plastered walls, waxed fir floors and wooden dressmaker’s shelves.

From left, owner Richard Carter, Michelle Neal, Erin Radcliffe, Chelsea Radcliffe with dog Oliver, and Toby Hanson © Emma K Morris A set of six French walnut steak knives, $450 © Emma K Morris

A set of six French walnut steak knives, $450 © Emma K Morris

Vintage corkscrews, from $35 © Emma K Morris

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Many of the original store features are used to display items. The wide-ranging book selection is showcased in a restored meat locker; magnificent sculptural bowls ($2,000) and crystalline cloches ($2,600) by architect and glassblower Joshua Parke sit atop a zinc-topped wooden worktable; and rare copper pots and handcrafted knives are on an original butcher’s block. The store is particularly celebrated for its varied selection of dishware, which is inspired by designs created by Carter and artists-in-residence at his studio on his 85-acre ranch in nearby Pope Valley, and fired in the estate’s Japanese wood-burning kilns. Much sought after is the “dirty” porcelain that “contains iron and is more textural”, made in collaboration with the nearby three-Michelin-starred Meadowood restaurant; especially beautiful is the Shed line of ceramics ($38-$195) fired in a salt kiln to give them an ethereal, mottled green veneer.

The wide-ranging book selection is showcased in a restored meat locker © Emma K Morris

Millon and Clark walnut board, $184 © Emma K Morris

Carter’s time spent as a chef at Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry, three-Michelin-starred as well, has also nurtured a special interest in top-quality culinary implements (“I love caring for good tools – especially if there’s a backstory involved”), and the array here includes hand-forged Swedish axes by Gransfors Bruk ($153), Tetu cast iron kettles ($615) and chopsticks ($10). The most striking piece is a spectacular carbon steel fire pit ($9,000) that Carter designed at the ranch during lockdown. Foodie highlights, meanwhile, include locally produced honey and olive oil. But it’s not all practical housewares. Clothing includes hand-sewn deerskin jackets in tan, gold and chocolate by nearby Marin-based Susan Kim ($1,500-$1,700), while decorative objects include Japanese hollow taper candles ($28) and Breu resin incense ($18). To keep things feeling fresh, Carter also hosts regular pop-ups (most recently with ethical-clothing brand Dosa). “We felt like we could do retail better,” he concludes. “I keep the place spare and change it often. People come to discover niche things that are sustainable and made with love.”

Gary Tinterow: How To Spend It in Houston

Gary Tinterow, director of Houston’s Museum of Fine Arts, on the pioneering spirit of America’s third-largest city

Houston is a can-do city, a port city, so it has always welcomed the world – and it will soon be the third-largest city in the US. There is a culture here of optimism and possibility. That spirit drew me back to my hometown after 29 years at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

After the oil boom at the turn of the century there was great wealth generated here, and with that came civic-minded families focused on creating their own cradle of culture. As a result we have outsized arts institutions: The Museum of Fine Arts (Mies van der Rohe’s only museum in the US), The Hobby Center for the Performing Arts, the Houston Ballet, the Houston Grand Opera, the Houston Symphony. This commitment to artistic patronage continues today, and it’s the reason it’s easier to get things done here; in just a few years at the MFAH we’ve put up buildings by Steven Holl Architects and commissioned works by Ai Weiwei and Olafur Eliasson.

The Nancy and Rich Kinder Building at the Museum of Fine Arts

Olga Merson, 1911, by Henri Matisse, at the MFAH © Succession H. Matisse/Artists Rights Society (ARS) New York

The Menil Collection, not far from us, is another treasure. This Renzo Piano-designed museum with its Cy Twombly Gallery, as well as vast collections of abstract expressionist and pop art, is a must see. For a quick bite after a visit, I love Lua Viet Kitchen, just across from the museum, for excellent “Shaking Beef” – seared steak, watercress, jasmine rice and scallion oil.

Tinterow in the Lillie and Hugh Roy Cullen Sculpture Garden at the MFAH © Bryan Schutmaat

I spend a lot of my time in the Museum District, but for a green escape I’m drawn to the Buffalo Bayou Park Cistern. Alongside biking and running trails, the former cistern is now full of art installations. Galleries are another strength here; Hiram Butler is a MoMA alum whose gallery features modern American art by well-known and emerging artists alike. Sicardi Ayers Bacino is devoted to avant-garde modern and contemporary Latin American art, while McClain is very international in focus but with many Texan artists represented as well. The Project Row Houses – a series of shotgun-style houses that have been restored in Houston’s historic Third Ward – are an experimental art and enrichment community centre.

The Project Row Houses in the Third Ward © Peter Molick

Because of our diverse culture – from Mexican-Americans to people who come here from Central Asia – the cuisine in Houston is fantastically varied. When people think of “Mexican food” they’re often really talking about Tex-Mex. True Mexican food, which I adore, is exquisite and famous for its balance of flavours and moles – the thick, aromatic sauces made of ground up dried chillis and poured like a ragu over fish, fowl or vegetables. Two of my top spots for this are Hugo’s – where the baby pig is outstanding – and Cuchara, which is known for its Oaxacan mole made by female chefs. Ninfa’s is my favourite Tex-Mex joint and then Picos which specialises in regional Mexican cooking, which makes it a great place for experimenting with both cuisines. Outside of Mexican, I’m a huge fan of BCN – as in the Barcelona airport code – where chef Luis Roger, a student of Ferran Adrià, cooks refined Catalan cuisine.

The Menil Collection © Kevin Keim

I’m not much of a shopper, with two exceptions: good food and good books. At Phoenicia Specialty Foods in west Houston, you’ll find everything you need to make Middle Eastern and central Asian dishes, from spices and breads to pots and pans. For books, I go to Brazos Bookstore, Houston’s best independent bookseller, where you’ll often find University of Houston and Rice professors leading discussions. Some say there are two seasons in Houston: wet and dry. For six to nine months the weather is favourable, while in the summer, temperatures and humidity are in competition. From late-September through early-May, everyone is outdoors, exercising in the parks and verdant neighbourhoods. One winter highlight I try not to miss is the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo at the NRG Stadium. It’s touching to see the young competitors with their livestock – and where else can you eat fried Oreos?

The Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo © Mark Felix/Getty

Tex-Mex at Ninfa’s © Becca Wright

When people come to stay, I often recommend the five-star Post Oak Hotel. I advised its owner, Tilman Fertitta, on the acquisition of works by Frank Stella and Alex Katz. In the Museum District there is Hotel ZaZa, with its spectacular skyline views. Then the Montrose area is home to a new boutique hotel, La Colombe d’Or, which fuses historic architecture with contemporary art. I’ve always been curious about lives different than my own and so I moved away for a time, but Southern politeness and manners drew me back. The crowd I’m seeing at the MFAH is much more diverse than what I saw at The Met in New York, so it feels like a dynamic time; Houston has really grown into its big city shoes.

The world’s best antique and vintage furniture stores

A global guide to the greatest second-hand interior haunts

The eclectic experts

Alex MacArthur, Sussex “I love big pieces, both in terms of scale and impact, and there are no limits here,” says antiques dealer Alex MacArthur of her eponymous shop set in a 14th-century former Augustinian monastery in the town of Rye, on the East Sussex coast. Here, she indulges her passion for grand architectural pieces from the 17th century onwards, whether it’s a French c1890 spiral-iron staircase or an imposing 3.5m-long bronze bull she shipped over from Turin, which was snapped up for a client’s sculpture garden. Lighting is a trademark, particularly 1960s Parisian Holophane streetlights revamped for domestic use. Elisa Anniss alexmacarthur.co.uk

Galerie Half, Los Angeles Despite its name – taken from the store’s first address in a West Hollywood alley – there is nothing fractional about Galerie Half, founded by interior designer Cliff Fong and antiques dealer Cameron Smith. Its three locations in LA’s buzzy Sycamore district attract an equally buzzy clientele, such as Diane Keaton and Ellen Degeneres. The artful curation of French, Scandinavian and American pieces is a mélange, says Smith, “that people never thought to put together but which blend seamlessly”. This might be a Pierre Jeanneret desk from Chandigarh or a 19th-century stone and iron console from France. Rima Suqi galeriehalf.com

Galerie du Passage, where owner Pierre Passebon exhibits furniture designers such as Jean Royère and Guy de Rougemont © Jacques Pepion

Galerie du Passage, Paris Tucked into the glass-roofed Galerie Véro-Dodat is a treasure trove that has been visited by Princess Caroline of Monaco and Christian Louboutin. Sourcing vintage pieces from private collections, owner Pierre Passebon puts on exhibitions devoted to renowned furniture designers such as Jean Royère and Guy de Rougemont – pairing them with fetishistic photographs by filmmaker David Lynch, or images of Marlene Dietrich from his own collection. Up next: a likely one-of-a-kind lidded Gio Ponti majolica vase, made by Richard Ginori in 1923. Christina Ohly Evans galeriedupassage.com

Retrouvius, London “Saving things threatened with destruction” is how Adam Hills sums up the architectural- salvage business he set up with his wife, Maria Speake, over 25 years ago. They have rehoused thousands of tons of Iroko-wood lab tops from schools, museum display cases and lots of lighting – from factory pendants to a seven-tier Venini chandelier. The stock also provides a palette for Speake’s interior-design schemes – including Bella Freud’s Chiltern Street shop, which features terrazzo-column cladding from a Liverpool department store. “It’s a great example of what we do: taking a material, then giving it a little twist.” Victoria Woodcock retrouvius.com

The Specialists

Lahandira, Marrakech Hailed as the best carpet shop in Morocco, Lahandira is hidden away on the top floor of an old Roman Catholic church inside Marrakech’s warren-like medina and stacked floor to ceiling with rugs – both new and antique – handcrafted by Berber weavers. “My dad used to collect authentic Berber rugs,” says Ismail Bassidi, who took over the business 17 years ago and is quick to recall some of his most memorable finds: a rug from Boujaad, in central Morocco, woven in a faded mix of butterscotch, burgundy and peach-pink, and a midcentury magenta piece handmade by the Beni-Mguild tribe in the Middle Atlas Mountains. Baya Simons lahandira.com

Jamb, London “I believe we have the most outstanding selection of chimneypieces ever to have been on the open market,” says Charlotte Freemantle. She and her husband, Will Fisher, “scour the planet” for 17th- to 19th-century examples, as well as antique lighting and furniture. Of the 300 items in stock – spread across showrooms in West Hollywood and Atlanta, as well as in their own Pimlico Road space – Fisher’s favourite is a c1777-1791 neoclassical marble chimneypiece carved by British sculptor John Bacon to commemorate peace between Great Britain and the US after the American War of Independence. Nell Card jamb.co.uk

The Italian Collector, Umbria Five years ago, jewellery designer Bec Astley-Clarke relocated from London to a hilltop house in Umbria. Here, the Italophile turned her passion for the country’s antiques into a business. Treasures include a 1930s lemon-adorned vase found in Venice as well as larger pieces like a 1960s brass and mirrored-glass coffee table by Romeo Rega. “I’ve trawled flea markets in Ischia and Gubbio and cantinas in Perugia and Todi, bid at auctions in Florence, negotiated with signori in private homes in Milan and Naples and attended antiques fairs in Abruzzo,” says Astley-Clarke of her eternal quest to hunt down that special find. Clare Coulson theitaliancollector.com

Atelier Vime, Provence Benoît Rauzy and Anthony Watson established Atelier Vime after stumbling upon an 18th-century hôtel particulier in Vallabrègues, a Provencal village with a rich wicker-making heritage. Here, the pair began restoring 20th-century wicker and rattan furniture alongside creating an original line of contemporary pieces, designed by Raphaëlle Hanley and made from local materials by nearby artisans. But it’s the vintage pieces – emerald rattan armchairs by Janine Abraham, rope chandeliers by Audoux-Minnet and rattan daybeds by Louis Sognot – that lure the design-world fanbase. Pierre Yovanovitch, Rose Uniacke and David Netto are all regular customers. Clara Baldock ateliervime.com

Shiprock, Santa Fe Jed Foutz is a fifth-generation dealer in rare Native American textiles and artefacts whose clients include Ralph Lauren, interior designers and Hollywood A-listers, as well as cultural institutions such as the National Museum of the American Indian. “It’s soulful,” says Foutz of his stock, which at any one time could include a classic and highly collectable 19th-century Navajo blanket or a midcentury black-on-black ceramic vessel from San Ildefonso Pueblo. The highly Instagrammable Rug Room alone is worth the trip for its historic hand-spun textiles in saturated hues of vermilion and indigo. COE shiprocksantafe.com

Sekisen, in Kyoto, focuses on rare bamboo flower baskets, Edo-period tea sets and painted scrolls

Sekisen, Kyoto Michikazu Mizutani, a fifth-generation art dealer and an expert on Japanese history, is best known for the rare bamboo flower baskets he sells from a 125-year-old townhouse in Kyoto’s antiques-rich Ohto area. Sekisen also sells green tea and kaiseki sets – many of which date from the Edo period (17th-19th centuries) – while the store’s back room is filled with unique painted scrolls, sold by Mizutani’s equally enthusiastic sons, Yuichiro and Masaya. “We focus only on the most special pieces,” says Mizutani, whose global clients include New York’s Met and the British Museum. COE sekisen-kyoto.com

Simpson’s, Sydney A dealer since 1978, Andrew Simpson specialises in early colonial Australian antiques – such as a stately c1795-1800 set of cedar drawers with original brass plate handles and escutcheons – which he sells from his home in the Sydney suburb of Stanmore. He’s written books on Australian furniture and art pottery – another focus – while a star veneered Oyster Bay pine circular table that he sold to the Australiana Fund is used for the swearing-in of prime ministers at Government House in Canberra. VW australianantiques.com.au

Midcentury Masters

Wyeth, The Hamptons In the 25 years since Wyeth debuted in TriBeCa, owner John Birch has come to be called “a Larry Gagosian for the interior-decorator set”, with a following that includes Tomas Maier and Gwyneth Paltrow. His original mix of European and American vintage modern pieces with tribal, industrial and found objects remains much the same today, although Wyeth’s sole location is now Sagaponack, in The Hamptons. The discerning assortment might include sofas by Edward Wormely and Dieter Rams, or lamps by Lee Rosen and Gino Sarfatti, but it’s the more unusual pieces that often end up being the stars of the space: a telescope from the 1920s or a 1960s leather bear sculpture. RS wyeth.nyc

Original in Berlin, Berlin It was a fascination with “old cars and ’50s music” that prompted Lars Triesch to start collecting midcentury modern furniture 10 years ago. “It’s a whole lifestyle,” he says. What started as a small patch on Karl-Marx-Allee has transformed into a 10,000sq ft showroom frequented by the likes of gallerist Johann König and musician Paul Simon. Armchairs by Hans J Wegner, Gio Ponti lamps and Jean Prouvé credenzas are among the most treasured items to have passed through Triesch’s 2,000-strong collection, but the piece he wishes he’d never parted with is a hand-carved door by American sculptor Harold Balazs. “I’m usually not attached to things,” he says. “For me, it’s the hunt for the unknown, unique thing that’s the fun part.” Rosanna Dodds originalinberlin.com

Michael Trapp’s Connecticut store – Trapp sources everywhere from Borneo to Boston © Rachel Robshaw

Michael Trapp, Connecticut “I love 17th-century European textiles, objects created when two cultures collide, and, above all, anything from nature,” says Michael Trapp, whose 1830s Greek Revival house in bucolic West Cornwall is an Aladdin’s cave of Peloponnesian oil jars, Iranian tribal carpets and immense teak tables from Borneo. The walls burst with butterfly specimens, taxidermy birds, ostrich eggs and rare shells from Trapp’s travels – in a typical year, he ventures from south-east Asia to Europe to the north shore of Boston, where he sources from old whaling captains’ houses. “I have a curious mind – I’m always looking for the whimsical,” he says. COE michaeltrapp.com

Lorfords, Gloucestershire In Toby Lorford’s capacious Cotswolds showrooms – a former bus garage and two aircraft hangars on the outskirts of Tetbury – you’ll find 5,000 pieces of decorative antique furniture and objets d’art, from a 19th-century Alpine sleigh to a c1770 Swedish tragsoffa. “We specialise in what I fall in love with – the unique and beautiful,” says Lorford, who set up shop in 2003. His “if you love it, mix it and it will work” philosophy has drawn a local crowd: the Beckhams, Coldplay bassist Guy Berryman and restaurateur-turned-hotelier Marco Pierre White. Lucie Muir lorfordsantiques.com

The French House, York For 25 years, Stephen Hazell and Kathryn Wakefield have been turning journeys to their home in France into buying trips. “We go to country-house sales, auctions and village fairs,” says Wakefield. “We are also approached by local residents, who know us as the English couple who buy antiques.” Their finds have made The French House the place in the UK for interior designers to buy the perfect rustic farmhouse table, an 1800s Louis XV-style overmantle mirror or an upholstered 19th-century Marie Antoinette bed. Mark C O’Flaherty thefrenchhouse.co.uk

Luca Workshop, Florence If a Hollywood art director was creating an “Italian antique shop” set, the result would no doubt resemble Luca Rafanelli’s store. Just south of the Arno and Ponte Alla Carraia, it’s the place to pick up Italian architectural salvage – giant clock faces, fabulously ornate mirrors and late-18th-century wig cabinets. “I don’t focus on a certain period,” says Rafanelli. “The original patina is what is important to me. My pieces end up in country villas and Manhattan lofts.” MCOF @lucaworkshop

The Cause: super-chef Dan Barber’s mission to save small farms

Bright orange persimmon and Green Zebra tomatoes. Red-hot Jedi jalapeno, mild Cornicabra and sweet Serrano peppers. Such are the bursting-with-colour-and-flavour contents of three mini kitchen gardens in Tarrytown, New York. All have been planted by junior cooks furloughed in the wake of Covid-19 by super-chef Dan Barber, proprietor of the award-winning Blue Hill restaurants in Greenwich Village and Westchester County.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns Farm | Image: Alice Gao

The trio were guinea pigs for the sustainability advocate’s lockdown-inspired grow-your-own initiative: resourcED. “When the restaurants closed in March, we surveyed 500 small farms across the US and 30 per cent said they were in jeopardy of bankruptcy due to reduced demand, as well as from the social-distancing measures that were put in place at farmer’s markets,” says Barber. Packaging and delivering enough individual farm boxes to match lost restaurant bulk orders proved impossible for many small farms during peak harvest.

Barber’s reaction was not only to set up a farm-box shop from his closed restaurant, but also to approach Jack Algiere of Stone Barns Farm (the location of one Blue Hill restaurant) to “see if he’d be game to have some of our cooks return and grow their own gardens”. The aim was to kickstart a worldwide educational initiative teaching young chefs (and the broader cooking-enthusiast community) about the importance of small-batch, rotational growing, to raise the profile of small farms and to support the independent food movement throughout the pandemic – and beyond. Algiere donated three pristine pieces of ground, and wrote a “recipe for a basic kitchen garden in a language that spoke to food lovers,” says Barber. And a truly grass-roots Kitchen Farming Project was born.

Jack Algiere of Stone Barns Farm wrote a “recipe” for a kitchen garden | Image: Adam Lupsha

Having launched on 11 May with just 50 gardens, the project grew to 2,800 across five continents and 66 countries in just three weeks. Now there are more than 3,200 participants, with a post-solstice recipe introduced to encourage the later planting of cabbage, kale, fennel, beet, coriander, Swiss chard and sunflowers. Barber’s starry roster of early supporters – Alain Ducasse, Daniel Humm and Yotam Ottolenghi among them – have added momentum to the social movement. “We now have chef-farmers in Slovenia and São Paulo, Australia, Japan and the UK,” says Barber. “I don’t even know chefs in Uganda or Greece, but gardens have popped up there as well, all by word of mouth.”

The Blue Hill cooks plant out seedlings

The garden “recipe” is simple: a 12 x 15 plot is divided into six suggested families of vegetables, each rotated over approximately a six-month period – and each chosen according to personal taste and individual location. But the common thread is a celebration of small farming, and the importance of diversity. 

The Blue Hill team in their garden | Image: Adam Lupsha

“This doesn’t mean just diversity of flavours or textures, but also of planting and timing,” says Barber. “Diversity is at the heart of everything healthy – every ecosystem and environment. You can’t flood your menu with just brassicas or night shades, and so [growing vegetables] becomes a lesson for cooks to see the restrictions and pleasure the seasons impose on them. This isn’t just about building a garden, but building a strong one that can produce 1,000lbs of vegetables before it’s done.”

A Kitchen Farming Project in Kyoto

“Small farms are key. It would be an environmental disaster if the legacy of this epidemic was farming on an even more industrial scale,” says Yotam Ottolenghi, whose chefs are currently tilling, planting and harvesting everything from broad beans to sorrel – with “tomatoes on the way” – in the north London garden.

“I don’t know what the future holds,” says Barber. “But building your own kitchen garden helps to create a consciousness around food waste and space, and this moment exposes just how ludicrous it is to assume waste when the resources are so clearly threatened.”

“We hope this becomes a network that catalyses local and regional change,” adds Algiere, who is one of the farmers providing one-on-one gardening consultation for those emailing from all over the world. “We’re learning from nature and from each other’s practices, and at the end of the day, people understand why small farmers are so important to our food system.”

For now, a global corps of chefs and food lovers are planting and harvesting in the hope of supplying their own restaurants and home kitchens – as well as soup kitchens and schools – with their bounty.And those without a green space or green fingers can buy a food box (10 for $150) to donate to families in need.“This is a passionate group of social-change makers,” says Algiere. “Building a garden only takes one person. Growing something is a proactive step.”

The Aesthete: Oliver Reichert’s black book of style

The CEO of Birkenstock finds an escape in cello music, model boats and walking in the Bavarian woods. By Christina Ohly Evans

My personal style signifier is a pair of perfectly broken-in black Birkenstocks, worn without socks, all year round. I wear a shearling version of the Arizona [sandal] in winter, and the Mayari style in summer. I have a pair of Arizonas that are almost 20 years old. The cork footbeds have seen many miles; they are full of memories. I own 120 pairs of Birkenstocks, but these are the most special. I’m a former American football player, which requires a lot of body mass, so I like to keep my clothing – mostly jeans, T-shirts and sweaters – simple and comfortable.

The last things I bought and loved were two grey shearling leather jackets from Frauenschuh, in Kitzbühel. I collect shearling jackets and have different weights for every season. I usually can’t buy clothes off the rack because of my size, but in Austria they tend to stock things for bigger men. Whenever I find things that fit, I buy multiples.

Reichert’s vintage handmade model boats – souvenirs from St Malo | Image: Marc Krause

My perfect soundtrack when I’m on the move would have to include Yo-Yo Ma and Ludovico Einaudi. The balance of Yo-Yo Ma’s cello and Einaudi’s piano help me tune out.

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was an old-school, dark-green rain poncho from Holland & Holland. It’s very practical; I think it’s also one of the Queen’s favourites. £890

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Lindsay Castle in Knysna, South Africa. It’s set on the white-sand Noetzie Beach, and the rough Indian Ocean and the light are very dramatic. It’s very understated as castles go, but it was hand-built, stone by stone, and every beam was chosen by hand. It isn’t “luxury” in the traditional sense, but I think of it as an eagle’s nest – just a very relaxing and special place. noetziecastles.co.za

And the best souvenirs I’ve brought home are handmade model boats from a marine-antiques specialist in St Malo: shipbuilder or dockyard models from 1880s England and some made in Scotland in the 1930s. They sit in my home office, but I take them out on occasion and use them for pond sailing with my kids.

One of his two shearling leather jackets by Frauenschuh | Image: Marc Krause

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Joseph Beuys. He was one of the first people to mix art and commerce in an honest way. I’d particularly like his Continuum chalk-on-blackboard work, Capri Battery and the felt and steel Samurai Sword. He took ordinary products and branded them intelligently.

The thing I’m eyeing next is a pair of handcrafted boots from Schuh-Bertl, in Munich. These Tricouni-style leather boots will be perfect for walking my dogs in the woods. €480

A corner of Reichert’s studio | Image: Marc Krause

The best book I’ve read in the past year is The Film Club: No Work. No School… Just Three Films a Week by David Gilmour. It’s about a teenage boy whose parents have recently divorced and he asks to drop out of school. His father lets him, with the provision that they watch movies – of his choosing ­–­ together each week. They end up talking about everything from work to popular music, and it really touched me as a parent. 

The site that inspires me is the land surrounding my home in Bavaria, about 60 miles north of Munich. This part of the world centres me – the forests, the grasslands, the lakes and the farms represent total freedom.

Reichert always takes his Sony NW-WM1Z high-res audio player on his travels | Image: Marc Krause

The place I’m yearning to visit again is Benirrás beach in the north of Ibiza. When I have free time I never want to travel for 10 hours. I find the crystal-clear water and the relaxed island vibe here to be perfect. It’s just easy, and with four kids from five to 11 years old, that’s what I’m looking for. 

When I travel, I’m never without a two-to-three-day supply of underwear, T-shirts, Hermès scarves and my Sony NW-WM1Z high-res audio player: it has the purest sound and completely relaxes me.

Last music downloaded: Homeland by French-Moroccan singer Hindi Zahra

The place that keeps drawing me back is Africa. It’s the mother of the human being, and I’m continually entranced by the colours, the nature and the earth. Its biorhythms match my own. I worked as a correspondent here for several years, so I feel very tied to the land and the people. 

The last music I downloaded was Homeland by the French-Moroccan singer Hindi Zahra. I first heard her soul mix on the then-underground Austrian radio station FM4, and I find the subtle guitar and the melody very relaxing.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the 1st arrondissement in Paris. You can’t beat it for the diversity and the density of excellent shops, from multi-brand stores to antiques shops and galleries – I am constantly surprised. One of the best is the concept store L’Eclaireur, which has a unique mix of clothing, furniture and ceramics. Our Birkenstock 1774 showroom dedicated to special collaborations and projects is also here, near the Hermès flagship. 

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a farmer focused on producing high-quality food on a large scale. I’d love to grow all kinds of vegetables and raise well-treated animals, like farmers did 150 years ago. I like going with the seasons and think this might be better than running a business in a big city.

An object I would never part with is my wedding ring as it’s the ultimate bond to my family. It’s a simple, thick gold band that’s oversized and proportional to me. It’s definitely unique.

I was pleasantly surprised by Venice Beach, California. The community, the shops, the restaurants and the light are all wonderful. Everyone seems to be relaxed and balanced there, and I felt as if I’d known the people I met for 20 years. For Europeans, the greenwashing might be a bit much, but I think the energy is outstanding.

I had a memorable meal at Elements Ibiza Beach Club. It draws a very international but low-key crowd and the setting is just perfect. It’s a simple spot, where the tables are on a wooden deck on the sand and the kitchen serves the freshest seafood – grilled calamari and prawns with salt and lime vinaigrette – all with delicious olive oil. 

For a sense of escape, I like watching movies on aeroplanes – but I often spend that time looking at pictures of my family, which I find energising. 

The last hotel that blew me away was Claridge’s – as always. I’ve been everywhere, but this place is the best. Every single person who works there has an emotional intelligence that’s rare these days; they’re just so professional and kind, whether I’m travelling for business or with my family. The Fumoir is the best hotel bar too: excellent cocktails, with an old-world atmosphere. 

The travel philosophy I live by is less is more. Less time spent on the road, carry less baggage and take a streamlined approach to meetings. It’s important to separate “urgent” matters from what really counts.

The Aesthete: Lindsey Adelman opens her black book of style

The celebrated sculptural-lighting designer loves Alumnae’s slides, land art and Afrobeats tracks. By Christina Ohly Evans

My personal style signifiers are my wedding rings: nine very thin, simple gold bands – the tiniest rings you could imagine – each embedded with teeny black and white diamonds. They’re by Satomi Kawakita, an independent designer based in Tribeca and I chose them when I lost my original wedding ring. In terms of clothing, I like modest, classic silhouettes but with a bit of bite, so my go-to designers are Rachel Comey, Maria Cornejo and Rick Owens.

Adelman’s Alumnae snakeskin slides | Image: Nicholas Calcott

The last thing I bought and loved was a kiln by Skutt. It’s a medium-sized, electric commercial model that I use for prototyping light fixtures in our studio. I’m a beginner on it, though someone on my team is super-accomplished, so he uses it to make pieces for our custom chandeliers. My son, Finn, who is 15, taught me how to throw on the wheel, and I’m loving having a new hobby. 

In my fridge you’ll always find Stella Artois, because it’s so easy to keep beer fresh and cold for a really long time. Whenever we open a bottle of wine, we never finish it before it spoils. I have zero interest in cooking, so my fridge is filled with things that give me a quick pick-me-up, like Jacques Torres dark chocolate with almonds. Jacques Torres Dark Chocolate Almond Bark, $9, from mrchocolate.com

On Adelman’s wishlist: a Mies Van der Rohe for Knoll coffee table

On my wishlist is a coffee table for my living room. I’ve been looking at the Barcelona coffee table by Mies van der Rohe for Knoll. It’s so elegant. I swap furniture all the time between my Brooklyn home, my showroom and our house in Water Mill – it’s all pretty fluid where pieces end up – and I know this simple chrome and glass design will work equally well in each of these environments. $2,053.

Adelman’s wedding rings by Satomi Kawakita | Image: Nicholas Calcott

My favourite room in my house is our living room in Brooklyn. It’s cosy and creative, and it represents a lot of what matters most to me about family life. I love the ceiling height and the sun that comes through the windows that have no shades. We have a full wall of records, turntables and books, and another wall with candle sconces. There’s a big rug, a Togo sectional by Ligne Roset, a fireplace and a backgammon board for playing with my son – and it all feels perfect throughout the seasons. 

The 1970s denim shorts that Adelman found at Mother of Cod, a vintage shop in Nova Scotia | Image: Nicholas Calcott

The design that inspires me is the Integratron in the Mojave Desert in California. It’s a giant wooden dome where you go for relaxing, healing sound baths. The architect – who built it in 1954 – claimed he received the plans from aliens. My sound bath could have been as short as 20 minutes, but it felt like 20 hours, with all of us lying on blankets in a circle and looking up at the ceiling. I was transported somewhere else entirely. The nearby Joshua Tree Natural Park is always a magical place for me too. 

Apartamento magazine

The last book I read was The Mars Room by Rachel Kushner. It’s rough, elegant and insightful all at the same time, and the language and the quality of every sentence are masterful. I think she’s one of the best living writers. 

Stella Artois – a staple in Adelman’s fridge

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a pair of snakeskin slides by Alumnae in the West Village. It’s a great store and a great brand. I went in for mules and came out with slides in shades of black, grey and white that work with almost everything. $625.

One of Adelman’s recent reads: The Mars Room by Rachel Kushner

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a land artist in the vein of Andy Goldsworthy and James Turrell, completely immersed in nature. I love the idea of making pieces that only look a certain way for a moment in time before nature changes them an hour later. 

“I was transported somewhere else entirely”: The Integraton in the Mojave Desert

The last meal that truly impressed me was at a restaurant called Claro, in Brooklyn. I went with my husband for our anniversary and it was delicious. I had an Ultima Bruja cocktail made with Chartreuse and birch lime – it was an incredible electric green. We shared chipotle shrimp tacos with fresh greens and a delicious short-rib and molé dish. The atmosphere is great as well – low-key with a rustic-chic Mexican vibe. 

Amaki Jasmine and Rose Nourishing Oil

My style icon is Emmanuelle Alt, editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris. She is so beautiful. French people typically look beyond anything that I can imagine looking like, and she is the epitome of this effortless chic. I love that she wears little jackets and high heels and these slightly masculine pants. She can definitely play with the boys.

Adelman in her dining room | Image: Nicholas Calcott

The grooming products I’m never without include Jasmine and Rose Nourishing Oil by Amaki, which I use for my face, body and hair. I have several of these lovely little bottles with floating rose petals that I use throughout the day. For shampoo, I like Shu Uemura’s Color Lustre for conditioning highlights. Amaki Jasmine and Rose Nourishing Oil, $27.50. Shu Uemura Color Lustre, $49.

Vinyl, books and turntables in Adelman’s living room | Image: Nicholas Calcott

The best gift I’ve received recently is Lisa Taddeo’s Three Women. It focuses on three women who were interviewed extensively about their thoughts on sexuality and desire. It was given to me by a good friend because I think it’s something that we both know is an area of our society that is not written about enough. 

The last music I downloaded was by Burna Boy. I love several of his Afrobeats tracks, including Dangote, On the Low and More Life. A woman who works in our shipping department always has her earbuds in and she’s always super-chilled-out, so I asked her what she was listening to and she sent me her playlist. This is amazing music that makes you want to dance, but in a really relaxed, mellow way. When I put Burna Boy on, I can feel the anxiety start melting away. 

A recent “find” was Mother of Cod, an incredible vintage shop in Crescent Beach, Nova Scotia. I bought a pair of faded 1970s cut-off denim shorts that had the pockets ripped off, with deep-blue denim hearts handstitched in their place. I think they’re fabulous.  

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could would be Yayoi Kusama – her Infinity Nets paintings, in particular. I admire the fact that she did something with her struggles, and made them productive. As a creative person, I find great hope in that.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to recently is Bali. I was there for a yoga retreat near Ubud, organised by a group called Oneworld Retreats. It was incredibly authentic and I felt immersed in the Balinese way of life, from the belief systems to the ceremonies. I stayed in one of its stone dwellings that are built into a cliffside – it’s like a terrace in the jungle with little altars everywhere, moss growing on everything and billowing smoke for added effect. I don’t like anything fancy or forced, or the western idea of luxury being imposed on another country, and this place felt like it was coming from a Balinese idea of beauty. Seven-day retreat, from $1,900. 

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a beige linen cocktail napkin from a party at Nilufar gallery in Milan. It came with my drink, before I knew anyone at the party, or had even met the owner, Nina. We are now friends and shortly after the party I started showing my work at her gallery. This napkin always reminds me of an exciting starting point, and it was the opening up of an idea. For me, it stands for potential. 

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the corner of Howard and Crosby Streets in New York. There’s got to be some kind of vortex right at that spot. At Opening Ceremony, I love the kooky vibe and the clothing edit, including its own label. And I can’t resist the furniture and decorative-design store BDDW. Close by, I find stores such as de Vera every bit as inspirational as any museum in terms of the objects and jewellery, and Michele Varian is an excellent resource for housewares. 

The people I rely on for my wellbeing are both in New York: Stephen Thevenot at David Mallett Salon, who has been doing my hair for a very long time, and an acupuncturist named Thomas Droge who specialises in necks and backs. I went to him when I was getting cricks in my neck and they went away after just one appointment. His questions really brought the words out of me – the words I already had in my mouth that I just needed to spit out. I realise now that any blockage in the body is really created by thoughts. 

My favourite websites are The New Yorker for opinion pieces, and Apartamento and Pin-Up for art and design. I think Pin-Up is the best magazine on architecture and design out there. I also really love See Saw – an app that highlights art critics’ picks for the best of what’s on. You can also make a list of things you want to see in a particular city and the app makes a map and puts pins in place so you can easily access everything.

The object I would never part with is... nothing at all. I feel strongly about this because I design objects for a living, and nothing material is too precious. 

True blue: Tokyo’s cult shop for indigo style

Christina Ohly Evans visits a unique Daikanyama boutique

Known as the Brooklyn of Tokyo, Daikanyama is a hipster maze of fashion boutiques, bike shops, micro-breweries and brunch spots. This low-key neighbourhood at the edge of Shibuya is a charming mishmash of concrete structures and glassy storefronts. There’s T-Site’s modernist block of a bookshop, but also traditional wooden buildings such as Kyu Asakura House – a refined relic of the Taisho era that’s now a museum. 

A linen-canvas jacket by Blue Blue Japan, Okura’s in-house brand | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi

Copying this old-world style is Okura: a boutique on a quiet Daikanyama backstreet built to resemble a traditional Japanese storehouse, and dedicated to the centuries-old craft of indigo dyeing. Behind well-weathered noren curtains, rustic wooden beams and floorboards provide the perfect setting for a pared-back range of clothing, accessories and decorative objects. “We make items to last a lifetime,” says owner Gen Tarumi, who opened the two-storey shop in 1993. “We adhere to a made-in-Japan ethos. From the dyeing techniques we use, such as bassen and itajime, to the unisex, often modern silhouettes we design, we are proudly Japanese.” 

The traditional dye is made from leaves of the Japanese indigo plant, Persicaria tinctoria, fermented in rice wine and wheat bran to create pure tints that range in hue from a saturated navy to aqua to sky-blue. While the bassen technique uses silk-screen printing, itajime is a type of shibori resist-dyeing where the fabric is folded and sandwiched between two pieces of wood to create graphic patterns with negative spaces – used to striking effect on T-shirts and cushions. 

Blue Blue Japan silk-knit neckties, about £57 | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi

Such unique garments, infused with character and rich colour, have attracted fans from as far afield as Europe and the US. Leather-goods maker Bill Amberg goes for the “amazing shirts”, while shoemaker Tim Little of Grenson is a fan of in-house brand Blue Blue Japan, which offers pure-indigo-dyed trousers (Y26,000, about £184), as well as Sashiko coveralls (about £276) and jackets (from about £213). “Our brand is based on old farm workwear called noragi, which was mended with cloth from the inside, with the stitching seen on the outside,” says Tarumi. 

Blue Blue Japan itajime T-shirt, about £135, and example of silk-chiffon scarf | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi

Haori jackets (about £404) have a similar wabi-sabi look, patchworked from pieces of denim and displayed along the stairwell, while for women dresses and kimono-esque tops graduate through myriad indigo hues. “Indigo gradually fades over time to reveal the beauty of many different shades of blue,” says Tarumi. “It can transfer to the body, but it’s easily removed with soap and water. You might not want to wash it off, however; indigo is known to have antibacterial and insect‑repellent properties.” 

The Aesthete: Wes Gordon opens his black book of style

The creative director of Carolina Herrera has a thing for custom Prada, Sebastopol geese and Toblerone, says Christina Ohly Evans.

My personal style signifiers are black jeans, a great knit and colourful socks. The jeans are by Tom Ford, and the socks are varied, but often from Uniqlo. This is my comfortable day-to-day uniform for both work and weekends. 

Black Tom Ford jeans are part of Gordon’s day-to-day uniform | Image: Weston Wells

The last thing I bought and loved was an early-1970s green lacquered goatskin table by Aldo Tura. We just redecorated our apartment in New York and the rich malachite colour looks beautiful against the soft pink walls of the hall. 1stdibs.com.

The best gifts I’ve given recently are fresh eggs from our farm. We have 100 chickens in Connecticut and I’ve chosen the breeds by the colour of eggs they lay, from chocolate brown to celadon green to light blue. I box them and give them as presents.

Fresh eggs from his own chickens are one of his favourite gifts | Image: Weston Wells

The best gift I’ve received recently was four Sebastopol geese with beautiful curly plumage, from Martha Stewart. They are aggressive, so they protect our chickens from foxes. We haven’t lost a chicken since she gave them to us.

Martha Stewart recently gave Gordon four Sebastapol geese to keep at his farm | Image: Weston Wells

The last music I downloaded was a bit of a retro situation. I got Alanis Morissette’s Jagged Little Pill and it’s fantastic all over again. Also, Back to Black by Amy Winehouse. That entire album is still as soulful and bold as when it was released.

He has been re-listening to Jagged Little Pill by Alanis Morissette

The artists whose work I would collect if I could include Les Lalanne – I’d take a hippo bar, monkey lamp and some ginkgo chairs any day – and Helen Frankenthaler and Gauguin, for brilliant colour. I recently saw some gorgeous Gauguins at the Norton Simon Museum in LA, and I’m having a real love affair with his work. 

An unforgettable place I’ve visited in the past year is Villa Feltrinelli on Lake Garda – a boutique hotel that was the last home of Mussolini. I loved the charm and serenity of the area, and the hotel was idyllic. Our days were filled with sunshine, jumping in the lake, long lunches and afternoons spent reading. The light and the surrounding mountains were just beautiful – a perfect escape. From €1,400.

Colourful table linens brought back from India to mix and match on outdoor tables

And the best souvenirs I’ve brought home are dozens of table linens from across India. I bought them in all colours and patterns, from vibrant whites to block prints in red and orange. They’re perfect for entertaining in the summer; I mix and match them on a long outdoor table.

The best book I’ve read in the past year is The Immortalists by Chloe Benjamin. It’s the story of four siblings who learn their fate from a fortune teller. Since they know the day they will die, each chooses to live a certain way. The one who is told he will die young acts recklessly, while the one who is told she’ll get to be very old lives timidly, raising the question of which is a fuller life. 

Gordon’s favourite book of last year, The Immortalists, by Chloe Benjamin

The grooming staple I’m never without in the winter is Pure White Cologne by Creed. For summer, my staple is Virgin Mint from the Carolina Herrera Confidential collection. Confidential Virgin Mint, $159 for 100ml EDT. Pure White Cologne, £350 for 75ml.

Creed Pure White Cologne, £350 for 75ml

An indulgence I’d never forgo is milk chocolate. I like a high-low mix here. Fancy, artisanal chocolate is good, but I also adore classic candy. Toblerone is my favourite.

An object I would never part with is the Patek Philippe Calatrava watch that my husband proposed to me with. It’s simple and clean-lined, with a black leather band, and it’s a very special piece of jewellery. With a same-sex marriage proposal, you can establish new traditions around engagement.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava watch that his husband proposed with | Image: Weston Wells

A recent “find” is a London bookstore called A.Society, which I happened upon when I was looking for a present for a friend in Marylebone. I was raised by big readers and am passionate about books. I have a total aversion to headphones – they make me feel disconnected – so I’d always prefer to read than listen to something. This tiny store is incredibly well-curated, with rare first-edition fashion books and art finds.

Handblown glass vases by Gordon’s husband, Paul Arnhold | Image: Weston Wells

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Blackberry Farm in Walland, Tennessee. It was at a Fashion Weekend event for Carolina Herrera and the meals were a highlight. One dinner was set up in the place where all the vegetables were grown. The salads of sweet potato and ginger, and fresh arugula and carrots were amazing. But the best thing was the signature pimento cheese dip served with warm, baked biscuits. 

Gordon recently bought these Manolo Blahnik tasselled loafers | Image: Weston Wells

My style icons are Gianni Agnelli, Nick Charles in The Thin Man, and Mick Jagger. Agnelli – I mean, who beats that? The Neapolitan tailoring, the watch on the shirt-cuff, the hiking boots with a suit… completely effortless style. The character Nick Charles always looked so dapper. And Mick Jagger embodies an undone, easy style.

Biscuits from Sant Ambroeus, New York – Gordon always visits this restaurant when he is in the neighbourhood

My grooming and wellbeing gurus are my friend Yohey, who cuts my hair at home, and Dr Jason Piken, an incredible chiropractor and nutritionist who is helping me with an autoimmune-focused paleo diet designed to increase my energy and curb sugar cravings. 

My favourite room in my house is my bedroom. I could happily live just in this one room. It’s cosy and quiet, with a thick rug and heavy curtains.

In my fridge you’ll always find vegetables from the garden in Connecticut, as well as cider made from our 90 apple trees. Sometimes we have cheeses from nearby Arethusa Farm too. But in our New York apartment you will find exactly nothing – just three empty shelves, as we don’t eat at home. 

I have a collection of colourful suits – two dozen, in shades from bright green to sky blue to Carolina Herrera red, and many custom-made by Prada – and one made of pieces of blown-glass by my husband Paul Arnhold. 

The app I couldn’t do without is Pinterest. I think about work 24/7 and use it constantly; it’s the most amazing tool for working with my team while travelling and sharing research. I also like LiveAuctioneers – it aggregates global auctions, which is great, though I have learnt the hard way to be careful about shipping costs from far-flung places – but for daily news and updates, I look at CNN, the Financial Times, The New York Times, The Business of Fashion and WWD. 

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a coat from the CH Carolina Herrera men’s collection. It’s a dark-navy, mid-length down jacket with red piping and is a perfect transition piece from autumn to winter, and winter to spring. And a pair of blue tasselled loafers from Manolo Blahnik. Down coat, from $1,200. Shoes, £675.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the Upper East Side in New York, where we’ve just reopened our flagship. Madison Avenue still feels like an enchanting film set to me, with its mix of shops, cafés and galleries, and I find inspiration everywhere – just seeing strangers on the sidewalk. The Frick Collection and The Met are favourites, and Gagosian always has interesting shows. And I always buy a pink paper cup of coffee from the Italian restaurant and pastry specialist Sant Ambroeus when I am in this part of town. 

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a furniture designer or an architect. I’m not sure I’d be good at either, but I would enjoy both. Or maybe a lawyer. Bizarrely, I worked at a law firm during the summers while I was in school. 

If I didn’t live in New York, the city I’d live in is Los Angeles. The weather’s great, the palm trees sway in a gentle breeze and the people are fun. I could happily live at the Beverly Hills Hotel and just sit by that fabulous pool. I love The Broad contemporary art museum and I recently came across Galerie XX, which is full of incredible 20th-century design. 

Daniel Humm talks personal taste

The Swiss chef and restaurateur, who is behind the new Davies and Brook restaurant at Claridge’s, is invigorated by Russian banya treatments, Pierre Jeanneret furniture and Kyoto’s kaiseki cuisine.

My personal style signifier is clean, white Nike Air Force 1 trainers. These are my one constant and I switch them out frequently. They work with my neutral uniform of white, grey and black T-shirts and jeans, and are comfortable in the kitchen too. From £79.95; nike.com. 

The last thing I bought and loved was a pair of black Salomon hiking boots. They weren’t terribly expensive and they give me such pleasure. They’re super‑comfortable, safe and waterproof, so I use them for weekend hikes, everywhere from Aspen to Sun Valley to Switzerland. $165; salomon.com. 

On my wishlist is a Cannondale F-Si Hi-MOD World Cup mountain bike. I want to use this sleek black design for cycling in California and in the Palisades, just outside New York City. $11,000; cannondale.com. 

The last music I downloaded was Anima by Thom Yorke. All our restaurants have musical inspiration – Miles Davis for Eleven Madison Park, The Rolling Stones for The NoMad and Radiohead for Davies and Brook. When I was first working in the Claridge’s kitchen 27 years ago, I was listening to Radiohead’s first album, Pablo Honey, and Yorke’s music has been the soundtrack to my career. 

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is India. I spent six weeks there – a lot of it in Jaipur and Udaipur – and it was life-changing. Everything is different: the weather, the food, the smells, the architecture, the spirituality. I stayed at Samode Haveli, which felt very of the place, and practised yoga and meditation. The crowded markets, people dressed in vibrant colours, the cows and monkeys in the streets… I was out of my comfort zone, but in the best – very freeing – way. samode.com. 

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is the Kangaroo chair by Pierre Jeanneret that I found in Chandigarh. This city, designed by Le Corbusier, is spectacular, and the chair is not only a great piece of design – it also serves as a memento of a special, transformative trip. It now sits in my living room in New York.

A recent “find” is the South Kensington Club in London. You can get a day pass, and the Russian banya – a sauna with steam – is incredible. There’s a traditional treatment where they beat you with branches, plunge you into cold water and then feed you honey. The experience lasts two hours and leaves you feeling incredibly energised. southkensingtonclub.com. 

The grooming staple I’m never without is Tom’s of Maine spearmint toothpaste. It’s whitening and contains no artificial flavours or preservatives, and it’s pretty much my go-to no matter where my travels take me. tomsofmaine.com. 

A note from Humm’s daughters, a treasured gift | Image: Harry Mitchell

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Brat in east London, a fun place with a casual vibe where they use serious, high-quality ingredients. It’s inspired by Basque cuisine. I had the signature whole roasted turbot from the charcoal grill, as well as perfect anchovies and roasted greens. They also serve a Spanish burnt cheesecake that’s cooked in a wood oven and is not to be missed – it’s incredible. bratrestaurant.com.

My style icon is Mick Jagger. He is just totally cool and has always been ahead of the times, playing fearlessly with fashion. He isn’t afraid to express himself through his clothes.

The South Kensington Club

My favourite room in my house is my library, which holds my book collection. It has a Donald Judd table and a pair of Pierre Jeanneret Library chairs that I love, and it’s a very creative, light-filled space. I often draw in here…

The best gift I’ve given recently was a birthday dinner for 20 people, cooked by me, for a very special friend. This was something that they couldn’t buy, and I know all their favourite dishes, so the menu was vegetable-focused.

Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

And the best gift I’ve received recently was a card given to me by my two daughters Colette and Vivienne, who are eight and nine years old. It was an origami-like envelope that they made and filled with sweet notes… Hard to beat that!

The artists whose work I would collect if I could are Mark Rothko and Agnes Martin. I feel like Rothko is a mirror of oneself; his work brings out the viewer’s emotions and, depending on my mood, his paintings either make me melancholy or lift my spirits. Agnes Martin’s work is very architectural in feel and that resonates with me. Her subtle paintings are about memory, beauty, feeling…

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a dark suede bomber jacket from Prada that I bought in Zürich to wear with jeans and a T-shirt at any time of year. prada.com.

I have a collection of books, particularly those devoted to cooking, architecture and design. From old and antique to beautiful new art books, I have amassed too many to count over the past 30 years, and they fill my shelves in both New York and Switzerland.

Humm in the kitchen at Claridge’s | Image: Harry Mitchell

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an architect or an interior designer. I like anything to do with structure and materiality and, having grown up with an architect father, it’s something I always thought about doing. I would also love to be a painter.

My wellbeing gurus are the teachers at the Iyengar Yoga Institute of New York. I have been going there three or four times a week for the past 10 years, and it has changed my health. It’s a very serious, rigid practice – it’s not about being cool, and there is no chit-chat. I also rely on my acupuncturist, Ted Dugas, who is a total body savant. iyengarnyc.org. Ted Dugas, +1917-750 7966.

Humm’s Prada suede jacket | Image: Harry Mitchell

In my fridge you’ll always find Siggi’s yoghurt, berries, coconut water and kombucha. I am also a fan of fresh celery juice, so that’s always on hand, as are organic eggs and Gruyère for omelettes. I like champagne, so I usually have a bottle of Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut on hand as well. selosse-lesavises.com.

The gadget I couldn’t do without is my iPhone. I am never on a computer, but I use this as an alarm clock, for keeping my calendar, for photos and emails, navigation, weather, WhatsApp, and for social media. I’d be lost without it.

Gieves & Hawkes in Mayfair

An indulgence I would never forgo is really good sushi. I love Japan, but if I can’t get there, then Sushi Noz in New York is the next best thing. It is mesmerising to have the finest chefs in the world create an omakase meal for you for almost three hours. It’s such a privilege to see an artist working at this level. sushinoz.com. 

An object I would never part with is hard to identify. I’m not really very attached to any one material item.

Humm’s style icon Mick Jagger with then wife Bianca | Image: Getty Images

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d chooseMayfair in London. I’ve been spending a lot of time there recently and I love Gieves & Hawkes in particular. The whole experience of getting suits made there is incredible. DR Harris in St James’s Street is wonderful for all kinds of creams and soaps, and Heywood Hill is the best for antiquarian books. And after an afternoon of shopping, nothing beats the tea and scones with clotted cream and Marco Polo gelée at Claridge’s. claridges.co.uk. drharris.co.uk. gievesandhawkes.com. heywoodhill.com. 

My favourite apps are Citi Bike for getting around New York, and See Saw for navigating contemporary art galleries in cities around the world. It allows you to track openings and favourite artists and even produces a little map with all the galleries in a particular area.

If I didn’t live in New York, I would live in Kyoto. There is a sensitivity in all things here: architecture, nature, where the food comes from, and the people are so gentle and respectful. The temples are amazing: the Katsura Rikyu, Kokedera – or the Moss Temple – and Tofukuji, with its beautiful trees, are among the most sublime. The Ryoan-ji zen rock garden is another super-spiritual place full of stone sculptures, and I’m very happy at Tawaraya Ryokan where you can sleep on the floor in woodland surroundings. Kyoto is famous for kaiseki – multi-course haute cuisine – and Nishikawa is simply the best. Katsura Rikyu, sankan.kunaicho.go.jp. Kokedera, saihoji-kokedera.com. Nishikawa, r.goope.jp/gion-nishikawa. Ryoan-ji, ryoanji.jp/smph/eng. Tawaraya Ryokan, +8175-211 5566. Tofukuji, tofukuji.jp.

Myriam Badault’s perfect weekend in Paris

The creative force behind Diptyque shops for copper cookware, exotic spices and vivid scented geraniums at the city’s independent stores

“Saturday mornings begin at 8am with the same Pilates class I’ve been doing for 30 years. I go to Keana studio, close to Place Vendôme, because I love the instructors and it offers a disciplined start to my day. I live in the 15th arrondissement, near Roland Garros and the Bois de Boulogne, so I’ll usually return home before running my errands for the day. I love this part of Paris because the streets are so wide and calm, and there’s a beautiful garden at every turn. 

I like to cook at home at the weekend, so I stock up on fresh produce, fish and cheeses early on Saturday. My first stop is often Epices Roellinger, a spice specialist whose owner is a noted chef in Brittany. You can find spices from all over the world here, including nine kinds of vanilla that work for everything from fish dishes to desserts. Book stores are also a priority. The Palais de Tokyo has a wonderful art, design and fashion collection, while Librairie Delamain has a good selection of everything from novels to comic books. They’ll pick books especially for me – for example, tailored to my travels – so it feels like a unique shopping experience these days. Ofr, in the old Marais, is another gem: they’re specialists in books about art and photography.

I’ll shop for clothes and accessories too, and White Bird – a little boutique with jewellery from all over the world – is always one of my first stops. I had an exquisite golden nugget pendant made here for Christmas, and I love how the owner mixes all kinds of shapes and styles. And I’ll often stop at E Dehillerin, an Aladdin’s cave of cooking implements: the selection of copper pots and pans alone is incredible. Natur’Elle is another favourite, with a gallery-meets-flower-shop feel. I buy all kinds of interesting plant species here: I love the crazy‑coloured scented geraniums.

Lunches at the weekend tend to be quick and light, and might be followed by a trip to Hôtel Molitor for a swim. This wonderful art deco building used to be the place for techno parties, but a few years ago it was refurbished into a hotel-restaurant destination, complete with an enormous pool. 

For a fun Saturday dinner out with my kids I like Mamie, a warm family-style restaurant that feels like your grandmother’s house. The desserts are very special – and visually stunning, since they are made by the famous pastry chef Cédric Grolet. My favourites are his choux pastries filled with vanilla cream. If we’re going to the opera or the ballet we’ll go to Savy, a bistro just off Avenue Montaigne, for a late supper after the performance. The food here is very traditional – beef fillet and the best French fries in the world – but it always feels like a special treat.

Sunday mornings start with a very French breakfast of coffee and a croissant with jam –and the papers. We aren’t on the healthiest routine, but this time spent with my boys and Le Monde and Madame Figaro is really enjoyable. If I haven’t been swimming on Saturday then I’ll head to Molitor on Sunday morning, followed by the Point du Jour market in the 16th for more dinner ingredients. Sundays are also a good day for Le Bon Marché, where I go for clothes before visiting my hair colourist at Studio Marisol. I don’t have time during the week, and they do the best highlights. 

Afterward I might walk to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs where I find the mix of contemporary design with old wallpapers and decorative objects really inspiring. Or I’ll take in whichever retrospective happens to be on at the Grand Palais, followed by a quick stop at Isabel Marant or at Tsé & Tsé for beautiful housewares, then Regis, where I’ll pick up a dessert of chocolate cake and orangette for our family dinner.

It’s very rare for us to go out on a Sunday night as I love to cook at home. I’ll serve my signature roast chicken with couscous or an Italian feast  – it all depends on what I’ve found at the markets throughout the weekend. I’m a very curious person in general and so the weekends fill me with inspiration; the food, the magazines, the cafés and the shops are where my ideas come from. I travel quite a lot for my work – to Korea, Morocco, Japan – and while I love it, I really cherish these quiet weekends at home.”

Diptyque’s fragrance tribute to Paris, Eau Capitale (£120 for 70ml EDP), launches this month (diptyqueparis.com).

Four must-visit Los Angeles boutiques

Hot shopping spots for fine jewels, high fashion and furniture

Hammer and Spear

“We hunt, curate, and ferret out timeless design,” says Kristan Cunningham of the shop she opened in downtown LA’s Arts District in 2013 with her husband and design partner, Scott Jarrell. The industrial-cool space has a distinctive SoCal-meets-Memphis vibe, showcasing an eclectic mélange of interiors pieces – from Vancouver studio Hinterland’s hand-etched Oxbow mirror ($3,200) to a pair of cocktail tables resting a meteorite cross-section on brass or copper legs ($5,000 each), made in LA by Christopher Kreiling. Smaller purchases, meanwhile, include, textural hand towels by Japanese maker Kontex (from $12) and restorative skincare products by Australia’s all-organic Grown Alchemist. “The fact that our space is quite hidden gives us a certain cachet,” says Cunningham – although Bill Clinton and Jennifer Aniston have found their way here as well. 255 S Santa Fe Ave, CA 90012 (hammerandspear.com). CHRISTINA OHLY EVANS

From top: Irene Neuwirth turquoise, pavé diamond and gold ring, $6,930, and opal, turquoise and gold earrings, $3,260 | Image: Amanda Friedman

Irene Neuwirth

“The high jewellery stores that line Rodeo Drive always felt a bit intimidating and I wanted to create the antithesis of that,” says LA-based jeweller Irene Neuwirth, who opened her light-filled boutique on nearby Melrose Place in 2014. “This is a place where people can relax and even have lunch while browsing, and everything is meant to be touched.” Behind the ivy-covered façade, white plaster walls, gently curving archways and marble floors are the backdrop for the colourful, whimsical pieces she designs for clients including Ruth Negga and Julia Louis-Dreyfus. Her style is a vibrant mix of rare, semiprecious and precious stones, brought together in pear-shaped Cutout Drop earrings ($2,490); an eye-catching rose-gold necklace adorned with “charms” of pink Australian opal, moonstone, tourmaline, beryl, Mexican fire opal and full-cut diamonds ($67,960); and a carved turquoise and pavé diamond ring ($6,930). 8458 Melrose Place, CA 90069 (ireneneuwirth.com). CHRISTINA OHLY EVANS

LA designer Greg Chait of The Elder Statesman | Image: Steve Schofield

Just One Eye, the LA concept store co-founded by Paola Russo

The Elder Statesman

The cashmere label founded in 2007 by LA designer Greg Chait takes its name from 18th-century British parliamentarian William Pitt. “I was inspired by his no-nonsense approach,” says Chait, whose spare and striking shop in a 1950s West Hollywood bungalow is an extension of this design standpoint. The zen, copper-roofed structure –complete with a desert garden – is a blank canvas for Chait to focus on exquisitely fine yarn – made in Italy and Scotland, hand‑spun in Mongolia, and loomed, knitted and embellished in nearby Culver City. The Baja pullover ($2,140) is the brand’s signature sweater, a slightly oversized hoodie ranging from muted beige to vibrant, dip-dyed indigo; the Favorite Tee ($445), with its relaxed silhouette, is another year-round classic. “My clients range from 20 to 80 years old. They are attracted to products with soul.” 607 Huntley Drive, CA 90069 (elder-statesman.com). CHRISTINA OHLY EVANS

Just One Eye

In a storied art-deco building – once home to Howard Hughes’s film empire – you’ll find Just One Eye, a concept store co-founded in 2012 by fashion veteran Paola Russo. A favourite among style insiders, the 5,000sq ft (soon to be 13,000sq ft) emporium is a mine of unexpected brands and innovative artistic collaborations. Russo brings a serious fashion CV to the boutique and her picks pay homage to the quirky, the elegant and street-chic. Clothing from Prada, Chloé and Church’s is interspersed with pieces from more cutting-edge designers, including Lisa Marie Fernandez and Leisure Society. A curatorial eye is also behind the shop’s artwork, which has included Alexander Calder wall hangings and edgy prints by NYC-based Marilyn Minter. Meanwhile, cool collaborations include limited-edition Converse trainers ($25,000) co-created with contemporary artist Nate Lowman. 7,000 Romaine St, CA 90038; from end of October, 915 N Sycamore Avenue, CA 90038 (justoneeye.com). CHRISTINA OHLY EVANS

Tara Bernerd’s perfect weekend in Gstaad

“Getting up to the mountains is heaven, and Gstaad is as magical in the spring as it is in the winter, when the snow brings a blanket of glittering quiet.

Saturday mornings begin with a walk to the village where I get the newspapers before heading on to Charly’s coffee shop. It’s been there for years and the pastries are simply amazing, but I try to resist and go for a coffee and a “glow juice”, made by my friend Dianne.

I do a lot of walking and hiking. My husband Tommy and I like the long walk to Lauenen, where you follow a river trail through a fairytale forest. The views are never lost on me. Having worked up an appetite, we’ll head to the authentic, chalet-style Hotel Wildhorn which is renowned for its decadent rösti, the traditional Swiss potato dish that is prepared every imaginable way here. I prefer the version with ham and egg, but they’re all delicious.

Saturday afternoon means a massage at The Alpina hotel, where the spa is excellent. I am inspired by its understated design ethos in my own work – it makes use of rich natural materials such as Ringgenberg limestone and black onyx – and Antonis is a gifted therapist. He uses a mixture of reiki and rejuvenating therapeutic massage. From there I might pop in to see Kevin at the Palace, where the buzzy lobby lounge is perfection – for a blowdry before a night out with friends. If time allows, I’ll stop by Maison Lorenz Bach, a well-edited clothing store with everything from traditional Tyrol jackets to fantastic studded belts. And Marti Interiors is a tempting source of chalet accessories, such as horn candlesticks and felt baskets that are used as log holders.

One of the best spots on a Saturday night is at the Olden Hotel where Massimo, the maître d’, is fantastic and the bar has a warm, convivial feel. The restaurant here is just as seductive, so we’ll stay and have my favourite spaghettini sciué sciué, a spicy tomato pasta. 

On Sunday morning, I’ll get up early to meet Alex Jenzer, a dear friend and hiking guru who knows the surrounding mountains like no one else. The sheer number of trails, as well as the epic scenery, are mindblowing. For some culture, we’ll hike to one of the area’s art installations such as Doug Aitken’s glass house – an incredible structure made of mirrors. After all of this activity, Sunday lunch is a must, and so I’ll meet my sister and brother-in-law at the Sonnenhof. We’ll sit on the terrace whatever the weather, as the views are stunning. I rarely eat meat, but here they serve the steak, still sizzling, on a hot, black stone and it’s exceptionally good.

We’ll walk back through Saanen, where there are some super antiques stores that range from Swiss traditional to midcentury modern. Tommy has quite a sweet tooth so we’ll pop into Délice, a cake shop run by the talented Heidi Sigrist-Wehren. She made our wedding cake and is considered a true pâtisserie queen.

From there we’ll walk back along the river – usually with our dog, Rocky – before returning home to read the papers by an open fire. We’ll spend Sunday nights at Seize, a very cool restaurant serving excellent mussels and light fresh soups. As the weekend draws to a close, the ski gear and hiking boots are returned to their places, my suits are packed, and I feel ready to face the busy week ahead.”

Ssense: the fashion e-tailer’s Montreal megalith of a shop

A sleek David Chipperfield-designed space is at the interface of digital and physical shopping. By Christina Ohly Evans

Amid the quaint cobbled streets of old-town Montreal, a listed 19th-century building is not what it seems. A clue to what lies beyond the beaux-arts façade is proffered by a peek through the windows, which at first appear to be blacked out, but in fact look onto an intriguing inner structure of grey concrete.

Loewe Puzzle bag, £1,850, and Jacquemus Chiquito pouch, £375 | Image: Alexi Hobbs

The magnificently minimal “building within a building” next to the Notre-Dame Basilica is the work of David Chipperfield and the flagship of fashion‑forward retailer Ssense. The statement five‑storey space opened in May 2018, but Ssense (pronounced “essence”) was founded 15 years earlier by brothers Firas, Rami and Bassel Atallah to bring labels such as Maison Margiela, Givenchy, Rick Owens and Balmain to the French-Canadian city.

“We started with a small physical store,” says Firas. “Our aim was to build relationships with brands that were reluctant to sell online at the time.” Since then, Ssense has gone in for e-commerce in a big way. Its website currently serves 150 countries, can be browsed in Japanese and Chinese as well as English and French, and generates an average of 76 million page views per month (by way of comparison, Net-a‑Porter tots up 85 million). While its online stock totals some 50,000 items by more than 500 designers, what appears on Rue Saint-Sulpice is a tight edit that is refreshed weekly.

The David Chipperfield-designed space | Image: Alexi Hobbs

At the fore of the store’s displays are a series of collaborations and exclusives, from Prada and Maison Margiela capsule collections, to quick-strike sneaker drops by Nike x Virgil Abloh – all of which have been bestsellers. “We’re good at ID-ing up-and-coming designers,” says Firas, adding that Ssense was the first retailer to offer Random Identities, the menswear brand created by former YSL head Stefano Pilati. “We place our orders around six to eight months in advance, and have a certain vision of what will be popular.” For women, this might be a skintight, moon-print poloneck by French designer Marine Serre (£255) or a Loewe petite Puzzle bag (£1,850); for men, a quilted-down Moncler Wilson jacket in a lacquered emerald-green finish (£1,065) or silver Adidas Originals Ozweego trainers by Raf Simons (£330). 

Marine Serre moon-print jersey poloneck, £255 | Image: Alexi Hobbs

“What really differentiates us, though, is our appointment system,” says Firas, explaining that an online wish list can be summoned to the store and tried on for size in one of eight sleek fitting rooms – with the help of a personal stylist if one so wishes. “Moreover, we want to have a cultural impact, featuring people who create things in music, architecture, art, fashion. We want Ssense to be fun.” Events have included book signings, artist talks, private dinners and an atmospheric installation of Craig Green’s collaboration with Moncler against a mechanical backdrop by London-based spatial designers Isabel + Helen.

Topping off the retail experience on the fifth floor are a reading room and café. There’s certainly nothing new about an in-store café, but here, in sleek Chipperfield style, with a glass ceiling giving unobstructed views of the sky above, the concept seems anything but old. 

BJ Fogg’s perfect weekend on Maui

The behavioural scientist – and expert in persuasive technology and habit formation – rises early, paddleboards with whales and gets competitive at ping pong

BJ Fogg on Maui | Image: Brooke Auchincloss

“I escaped to Maui in 2001 when I saw that Silicon Valley wasn’t the most humanising place. I still teach at Stanford, and my behaviour design lab is there, but my happiest moments are spent in nature in Hawaii with Denny, my partner of 30 years. Here, I step away from technology and don’t think about the stresses of work.

I’m an early riser and I start every morning with the refrain, ‘It’s going to be a great day!’ I have a TED talk on the subject of tiny habits; I think it’s important to set the right tone for the day. I play my recorder – maybe a little Joni Mitchell – which is almost a meditative exercise, and have a glass of water infused with electrolytes. I wait at least an hour before having coffee. A sleep-expert friend recommends this for maintaining cortisol levels and I’m interested in sleep optimisation, so it’s worth the delay. 

Once I’m fully awake, I’ll put my surfboard on top of my Honda and head for Kihei Cove for some stand-up paddleboarding, surrounded by turtles, whales and fish. The early morning time is quite spiritual; there are always about five of us regulars there who are upbeat and appreciative of the natural beauty. 

When I return home to Makena, Denny cooks us breakfast to enjoy on the lanai [patio]. I’ll have my coffee with Brain Octane Oil from Bulletproof, mixed with sunflower butter, tahini, cinnamon, cocoa powder and some turmeric for its anti-inflammatory benefits. I’m a habits guy, as my new book will attest, so I don’t deviate much from this routine. I’m a big believer that people should find what works for them and triple down on it – don’t take someone else’s prescription for life. 

I’m rabbit-like and eat veg throughout the day, so I always visit Hawaiian Moons Natural Foods to stock up on local vegetables and salad greens. I’ll also pick up sardines – one of the healthiest foods on the planet – avocado oil and fermented foods. Eating is less about taste for me and more about being the healthiest and most creative I can be. 

We’ll drop into Ace Hardware to pick up things for home projects – a stop that makes me feel like a local – and then, for a bit of afternoon ‘research’, I’ll go to Upcountry Farmer’s Market where I talk to people about their passions – anyone from a local ceramicist to a baker. People light up discussing the things they love. My findings aren’t formal research, but I like seeing the world through other people’s eyes and I always learn something that informs my work. 

After a picnic lunch in Kula Botanical Gardens, I’ll go to Hi Tech Surf Sports or Second Wind for surfing gear – and I am constantly on the hunt for better hats for sun protection. I also like Da Warehouse, an excellent resource for used furniture from the island’s hotels. And the secondhand store Nita’s Hidden Treasures, where I bought a set of wooden screens for filming my videos so you would never know where I am. Living on an island really makes you think about the environment and the cost of shipping; I’d rather have something that’s already here versus sending it by Amazon, which drives me bonkers. 

My afternoon often involves calls about a climate change programme called Behaviour Design for Climate Action that I’m working on with students at Stanford. We’re working with scientists to help people change their behaviours. Scientists understand the shifting ecosystem, but not always how to get people involved in a more positive future. After my calls, I’ll put in earbuds and listen to Sapiens – an audiobook history of humankind – or maybe Kara Swisher’s Pivot podcast, and walk to Makena Landing to watch the turtles; or to Chang’s Beach or a little beach near our home that has no name – and almost no people – for a swim. I love being by myself and watching the tide pools and aquatic life with a spectacular sunset. I don’t use my phone camera or post on Instagram; I like to be in the moment, experiencing the waves and the sand. 

In the evening, we often go to our friend Dorothy’s house for a potluck supper and some competitive ping pong. Dorothy is 91, but incredibly young, and I am always trying to surprise her with a weird little gift that she’s never seen before: a tiny drone, amber glasses to keep her circadian rhythms intact, or 200 ping pong balls with words such as ‘awesome’ inscribed on them.

On Sundays, Denny and I often do projects together – staining wood, making things – and we’ll get fish tacos from The Market in Wailea for lunch. In the evening, Denny cooks ahi tuna or mahi-mahi with roasted vegetables and a huge side salad for me – it’s like a trough. Our TV is typically hidden, but this is the one night we’ll watch something light and fun: The Voice, or a movie like Groundhog Day. 

This is also my time for reading practical non-fiction such as I Will Teach You To Be Rich by my former student Ramit Sethi, or books about Hawaiian life. I might look at Instagram to see what my relatives are doing, or read my Apple News feed. We’ll also watch MSNBC’s Rachel Maddow, though this breaks my rule about politics before bedtime. She sees the deeper trends and puts everything in a historical context. I think people will study her one day.

I try not to think about Mondays the night before. I wear my TrueDark amber glasses – they filter out blue light to optimise my sleep – for at least an hour before bed. There is no light in our bedroom and there is a grounding mat under our mattress, which balances you out. I am up and ready to go at 5am, whether it’s running my lab or answering emails and phone calls. A perfect weekend is one where I’ve invested in the good habits that will carry me through the craziness ahead.”

Tiny Habits: The Small Changes That Change Everything, by BJ Fogg, is released on December 31 (Virgin Books, £14.99).

Marlon Brando’s prized Rolex among the gems in “Game Changers” auction

Phillips New York hosts a watch sale that’s well timed for the holiday season

The New York “Game Changers” sale presented by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo – the watch department at the auction house – promises to be a horologist’s treasure trove. As the name asserts, several of the pieces set to go under the hammer are deemed game-changing, including the iconic Rolex GMT-Master (ref 1675) worn by the late Marlon Brando in Francis Ford Coppola’s 1979 epic Apocalypse Now.

The iconic Rolex GMT-Master (ref 1675) owned by Brando

The iconic Rolex GMT-Master (ref 1675) owned by Brando

Its place in cinematic history withstanding, this particular timepiece is unique due to the never-before-seen “M Brando” inscription on the caseback, which the actor engraved personally. It is said that Brando was asked to remove the watch when filming in the Philippines, as it was considered too distracting on camera. “If they’re looking at my watch, then I’m not doing my job as an actor,” he is claimed to have retorted – and so the Rolex remained in the picture (although with its bezel removed), becoming synonymous with Brando’s rogue character, Colonel Kurtz.

The watch is unique due to the actor’s personal engraving on the caseback

Brando pictured with his daughter Petra and her mother, Caroline Barrett, at Petra’s graduation in 1994, when Brando gave her the Rolex | Image: Courtesy of Petra Brando

The watch is unique due to the actor’s personal engraving on the caseback

Brando pictured with his daughter Petra and her mother, Caroline Barrett, at Petra’s graduation in 1994, when Brando gave her the Rolex | Image: Courtesy of Petra Brando

The piece remained in Brando’s possession until 1995, when he gifted it to his daughter Petra on the occasion of her graduation from university. Brando included a hand-written note that read: “This watch is like a tank. You can do anything you want to it and it will keep on going. I want you to have it as a reminder of how proud I am of you.” The piece remains beautifully preserved with its original dial, hands, crystal, crown and case.

12 delectable – and visually dazzling – Yule logs

The best Christmas confections from the world’s most celebrated pastry chefs

The traditional bûche de Noël is hitting new artistic heights this holiday season, using unexpected ingredients and themes. Here’s our pick of the best.

The Four Seasons Hotel George V’s orchid-like creation

Le Royal Monceau-Raffles, Paris

Pierre Hermé’s celebratory ferris wheel of a cake is as much objet d’art as dessert. It has a rotating chocolate wheel studded with macaroons, nougat and caramel, while the log itself combines gingerbread and fruit – figs, candied apricots, morello cherries – all bathed in delicate lemon mousseline and zesty lemon jelly. €250, available December 13-25; leroyalmonceau.com.

Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

Michael Bartocetti has created an edible homage to the hotel’s artistic director – and florist extraordinaire – Jeff Leatham, whose favourite flower is the orchid. Delicate almond biscuit, crunchy hazelnut, clover-infused cream, hazelnut praline and a luscious layer of Tulakalum chocolate mousse are topped with Meyer lemon zest and mikan tangerine. €95; restaurant-lecinq.com.

The Royal Mansour Marrakech’s offering features Moroccan motifs

Royal Mansour, Marrakech

Within the lavish medina walls, Jean Lachenal has conceived Christmas cakes in flavours of coffee, bourbon vanilla and dark chocolate – each featuring Moroccan patterns and motifs. 450 MAD (about £36), to order; royalmansour.com.

A trompe-l’oeil stack of chocolate books from La Réserve | Image: Delphine Constantini

La Réserve, Paris

This unique Yule log is Adrien Salvert’s riff on the hotel’s Duc de Morny library, with a trompe-l’oeil stack of edible books rendered in chocolate. Beneath the top book cover lies a boxful of chocolates infused with smoky tea and citrus flavours, while the base cake is a nod to the classic French confection itself. €95, to order; lareserve-paris.com.

Park Hyatt Tokyo’s Mont Blanc log

Park Hyatt, Tokyo

Here three variations on the theme are available: Pure White Snow, a streamlined white chocolate mousse with passion-fruit jelly and hazelnut praline crunch; Mont Blanc, with vanilla sponge cake wrapped around a chestnut and rum ganache, paired with maple syrup, roasted walnuts and almond cream; and the Dark Manjari Chocolate version encased in a sleek glaçage. ¥4,700 (about £33), to order; restaurants.tokyo.park.hyatt.co.jp.

The Ritz Paris’s bûche de Nöel | Image: Aimery Chemin

Mandarin Oriental, Paris

This year’s creation by Adrien Bozzolo was made in collaboration with celebrated design firm Gilles & Boissier. A chocolate hut holds a chocolate and passion-fruit cake embellished with tiny toys. €98, available December 20-26; mandarinoriental.com.

The Royal Champagne’s creation is inspired by the Christmas tree seen from the hotel’s terrace

The Ritz, Paris

François Perret’s log is a swirl of chocolate ribbons and hazelnuts, its biscuit base enhanced by an airy cream made with muscovado, and caramelised gold cocoa sprinkles adding the pièce de résistance. €110, to order; ritzparisboutique.com.

Hôtel Metropole Monte-Carlo’s caramel, vanilla and pecan confection | Image: Studio Phenix

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, Champillon

Fusing milk-chocolate guanaja and crunchy cocoa nibs with raisins and creamy caramel, this log is given a final subtle yet sweet kick with a hint of local tipple ratafia – a mix of brandy and grape juice. The chocolate Christmas-tree topper is inspired by the one seen from the hotel’s terrace. €85; royalchampagne.com.

The world of French winemaking informs Peninsula Paris’s log

Hôtel Plaza Athénée, Paris

Angelo Musa has won the World Pastry Cup and been named One of the Best Craftsmen in France (Meilleur Ouvrier de France), and now, with colleague Alexandre Defeu, he has created a yule log that looks like it has been plucked from the forest. Combining milk-chocolate mousse and citrus-fruit marmalade with layers of chocolate ganache and biscuit, this is a traditional cake with modern flavours. €120; dorchestercollection.com.

A citrusy extravaganza from Le Meurice

Hôtel Metropole, Monte-Carlo

A holiday fantasy in caramel, vanilla and pecans by Patrick Mesiano and Christophe Cussac, this gold-dusted yule log, decorated with gilded feathers, is perfectly in keeping with its Monaco surroundings. €95; metropole.com.

The Peninsula, Paris

French winemaking traditions inform this year’s limited-edition Yule log by Dominique Costa. Set inside an elegant champagne box topped with a Pinot Noir vine, a cake of chocolate-glazed gingerbread sponge is accented with spiced pears, vanilla mousse and caramelised almond crunch. €118, to order; peninsula.com.

Le Meurice, Paris

Cédric Grolet is known for his love of citrus fruits, and here lemon-infused biscuit and mousse are offset with fresh herbs such as basil, tarragon and mint, followed by a base of roasted cereals – quinoa, sunflower seeds, kasha and linseed – and topped with whipped lemon-yuzu ganache and fromage blanc mousse. From €50, to order; dorchestercollection.com.

Artist Sean Scully talks personal taste

The painter loves Bill Murray’s low-key style and Lana Del Rey tunes – and eagerly awaits the arrival of a hydrogen car on the market. Portraits by Jody Rogac

Sean Scully in his studio | Image: Jody Rogac

My personal style signifier is a pair of black leather Ecco shoes. I can do anything in these slip-ons: run, walk, work out, paint – and they even look good for social occasions. While other people fumble with their shoes in airport security, I speed through. ecco.com. 

The last thing I bought and loved was a painting by Marie Lucas-Robiquet. I was at Bonhams to ID an artwork that had been stolen from me, when I saw this wonderful painting of two children in the French countryside. I loved it so much I decided to bid on it right then and there, and it now hangs in our hallway. bonhams.com.

His studio | Image: Jody Rogac

On my wishlist is a hydrogen car. I’m waiting for these environmentally conscious cars to come onto the market – we all need to do our part to leave the planet better for our children. I’m big into recycling. I actually found my favourite armchair by the side of the road. It’s in the middle of my studio and when I am painting, I will sit here for a while to think and absorb my work in progress.

The work of art that changed everything was Picasso’s Child with a Dove. It literally saved my life. I went to a terrible school in south London and there was a copy of this painting hanging in the assembly hall. It is so peaceful – it was very moving and inspirational for me.

A recent “find” is Finnegan’s of Dalkey, a beautiful pub on the outskirts of Dublin with a great atmosphere. The lighting, the old world feel and the food are all excellent. I recommend their fish pie with chips at lunch. finnegans.ie.

When I paint, I listen to anything by Brahms and Lana Del Rey, and I recently downloaded the album Aventine by the Danish singer Agnes Obel. She is classically trained and I love the way she fuses highbrow music with pop. Her sound is quite grave and austere. I also like jazz, particularly Miles Davis, and cello music, but in general my playlists tend to be women-centric; my mother was a vaudeville singer, so I am drawn to theatre. 

One of his heritage apple trees | Image: Jody Rogac

My style icon is Bill Murray. I like the way he handles himself, never seeking attention and always humble. His clothes are a low-key reflection of his personality.

The best book I’ve read in the past year is Escape from Freedom by philosopher Erich Fromm, which explores the roots of authoritarianism and the rise of democracy. It was originally published in 1941, but it rings just as true today.  

The best book he’s read this year

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a Johnston & Murphy blue dress shirt. I bought a few of them as they travel well and fit my body perfectly. They are machine-washable, too, which means I only have to take carry-on luggage. From $99.50; johnstonmurphy.com.  

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Château Lacoste in the south of France. It is the extraordinary vision of Paddy McKillen, with outstanding art, architecture and food. I went recently to see an exhibition of my wife Liliane Tomasko’s paintings and the whole setting was just sublime. chateau‑la-coste.com.

“Untitled” (Your People are the Root of all Evil) – a wall plaque by Barbara Kruger | Image: Jody Rogac

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is a felt tortilla box with felt vegetables on the lid. I bought it for a dollar from an eight-year-old Mexican girl, near Mérida, and keep it in my office in New York.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Berlin. There is a wonderful supermarket called Edeka near Tegel Airport. It’s one of the best in the world, full of the most beautifully displayed organic produce, despite it being in the worst area. For contemporary art I love Kewenig, a gallery that’s set in a historic townhouse, juxtaposed with an electric substation. edeka.de. kewenig.com.

Child with a Dove by Picasso | Image: Succession Picasso/DACS, London 2019

The best gift I’ve given recently was a watercolour of mine to an auction that raised money for a refugee village outside Calais. It is one of my Mirror Images and only 8in x 11in, but it managed $50,000. I also bought a portrait by Chantal Joffe to support this worthy cause. migrateart.com.

And the best gift I’ve received recently is a painted photograph of Lili and I renewing our wedding vows, with our son looking on. It was from Bono who captured the moment and shows me carrying the flowers.

Scully’s felt tortilla box that he bought in Mexico | Image: Jody Rogac

The gadget I couldn’t do without is my iPhone. It is literally my office. I grew up with no electricity and now have total connectivity wherever I am. I am good with technology, so I even draw on it. apple.com. 

In my fridge you’ll always find broccoli – I eat it raw or steamed – and all sorts of berries, yoghurt and milk. I am vegetarian, so I tend to go in the fruit and veg direction. I also have organic Pinot Noiron hand – it doesn’t matter what kind.

Scully’s Ecco shoes and salvaged armchair | Image: Jody Rogac

An indulgence I would never forgo is penne with pesto from Il Portico in New York. It’s run by the very nice Pepe, and his pasta is outstanding. ilportico.com.

I have a collection of art – surprise! I particularly love the Hudson River School painters and I have a George Inness that I treasure. I also own pieces by Barbara Kruger and Emily Kngwarreye and photos by Robert Gardner who was director of film study at Harvard when I was there. I have a collection of fruit trees too. This is the first time I’ve lived outside a city and have had the space for a proper garden, so we’ve planted about 30 heritage apple trees, as well as quince trees for making jam and pear trees.

An Oral B Pro 5000 electric toothbrush

Objects I would never part with are my Eleuthera paintings: 23 large works featuring my son, aged seven, on the beach in the Bahamas.

The grooming staple I’m never without is my Oral B Pro 5000 electric toothbrush. I use it twice a day and it’s 50 times better than any other. £84.98; boots.com.

Norman Fucking Rockwell! by Lana Del Rey

If I didn’t live outside New York City, I would live in Königsdorf, just south of Munich. It has views of the mountains in all directions and everything revolves around being outdoors; the lake and the nature reserve are highlights, and the surrounding Bavarian castles and churches are charming. The Beuerberg golf club is particularly nice. golfclub-beuerberg.de.

My favourite room in my house is the dining room. It’s the only room in the house with great light and high ceilings. It’s also a play space – there are tables with my son’s Lego and drawings – and feels warm and communal.

Sean Scully at home outside New York City | Image: Jody Rogac

My wellbeing guru is my physician, Dr Michael Salitan. I’ve been seeing him for over 30 years and he’s a friend at this point. He is incredibly well-informed. 589 Broadway, New York (+1212-219 7600). 

My favourite websites and apps are ArtFacts for research and iTunes to create playlists to listen to while I work. 

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Picasso. I would buy everything. His work is tactile and life-affirming – I strive for this in my own work.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a politician – there is a lot that needs doing. Fascism is a big slug waiting to come out and I’d like to stop it. I also write, so would like to spend more time doing that too.

The site that inspires me is the Mayan city of Uxmal, in Mexico. It has a mystical power I find moving.

The Connaught hotel’s Christmas tree was designed this year by Sean Scully (the-connaught.co.uk).

How to spend it in . . . Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s guide to St Barths

The French-American chef offers his guide to the Caribbean island

“I’ve been coming to St Barths for 32 years and consider the island to be a home away from home. There’s a lot to love about it, not least that it’s three-and-a-half hours from my home in New York, which means that I get to visit three or four times a year. But also the diversity it holds – there are so many beaches, walks in the mountains and (importantly, for me) world-class restaurants to choose from. And no highways, so the pace of life is slower. You really can be barefoot 24/7. It is paradise.

Sailing with Cheval Blanc

I first came with my business partner, Phil Suarez, who owns a home here, and I now visit every year at Christmas with my family – but any time between Thanksgiving and the end of May is good. Hurricane Irma really laid waste to much of the island in 2017, and it’s a real testament to the strength of the community that they were able to rebuild so quickly; so much so that this year, everything – hotels, restaurants, shops, infrastructure – is 90 to 95 per cent back to normal.

Of course, getting to St Barths is half the fun. Or terror, depending on your stomach for flying – the Tradewind Aviation flights from St Maarten and San Juan come in over a steep hill and it’s basically the scariest landing in the world, on one of the shortest runways. I have twice been on a plane that ended up with its nose in the sand. Luckily, the instruments are more precise these days and everything runs smoothly. And you know immediately that you’re somewhere good because the views of the turquoise Caribbean are incredible. 

One of the rooms at boutique hotel Villa Marie

One of the best things the island has going for it is its hotels. There are all kinds of places, each with a unique feel, and fantastically, you won’t find any big‑brand names. And because there is such a limited number of rooms and homes available, it doesn’t feel rammed, even during peak holiday seasons. The restaurants do get more crowded then, but that’s another story…

The cuisine at Le Tamarin

Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France, right on Flamands Beach, reopened last year with new rooms and suites by Jacques Grange, much to everyone’s excitement. Le Guanahani, between Marigot Bay and Grand Cul de Sac, will reopen next year and is a classic – 67 rooms and suites spread across these charming little cottages. Eden Rock, on the highest point overlooking Baie de St-Jean – you see it when you fly in – is probably the island’s oldest hotel and its white-sand coral beaches are some of the best. It’s reopening next month, fully recovered from Irma. One of the smallest and most charming hotels is Baie des Anges, overlooking Flamands Bay. There are just a handful of rooms here, but the views of the crystal-clear sea are incredible. It’s discreet and the restaurant, La Langouste, is excellent as well – very local and full of creole influences – and while the hotel is modest compared to some of the others, it’s a perfect quiet hideaway. I also like Villa Marie, up in the hills of Colombier. It’s more boho chic and you have beautiful views of the bay.

A private rental villa through WIMCO

I’m a big water guy, which is part of why I love St Barths so much: the beaches are incredible. There are so many good ones, but I like to send people to Colombier, as well as Grande Saline and Gouverneur, because they’re good for both swimming and snorkelling. Whichever you choose, you should bring a picnic of delicious sandwiches and prepared salads from Maya’s To Go. The last swim of the day, the place where we watch the sunset, is Shell Beach – ideally with cocktails in hand and Greek mezes on the table at Shellona, which is right on the water there. Baie de St-Jean is the best place for kids to swim, as there is no surf and the water is the purest blue. On the Atlantic side of the island is the Washing Machine, which is basically, as its name implies, rough, so not great for swimming – but there are natural pools that are nice for a dip; you can sit and watch the pelicans swoop down for fish. And the hike to get there is well worth it.

A leather and gold bracelet from Trésors de St Barth

So within hours of waking on St Barths you will have worked up an appetite in the sun or surfing or hiking, which is good because there are any number of places to eat a wonderful late breakfast or lunch. While I have a restaurant here – the Sand Bar at Eden Rock – I love many others. My long-time favourite is Maya’s, just outside historic Gustavia Harbour. Maya Gurley, the owner and my good friend, is one of the most creative chefs anywhere. Her shrimp salad with green papaya and tamarind-spiced pork is excellent. 

Dinner at La Case

They get really incredible food here now – things like Bresse chicken and French cheeses; the quality of imported ingredients available is outstanding. But all the tropical fruits – mangoes, papayas – come via Guadeloupe and Martinique so they are really fresh and flavourful. The perfect morning starts with a freshly baked baguette from La Boulangerie Choisy in L’Orient. For casual lunches I like L’Isola for Italian dishes using local fish, and also L’Isoletta for Roman-style pizzas. And Eddy’s Ghetto in Gustavia for the goat curry and fried catfish is a must. On the way to Grande Saline you’ll find Le Tamarin, which is one of the best places for dinner; it’s built around a massive old tamarind tree – it has a beautiful outdoor atmosphere and fantastic mahi-mahi and marinated local tiradito.

A cocktail at the Cheval Blanc White Bar

St Barths is famous for its nightlife, although after a day spent on or in the water, I tend to be in bed by 10pm. There are places that I like for a night out, however. Le Ti St-Barth in Pointe Milou is one of the best. Its owner, Carole, has been an island presence for many years and late-night table dancing is a regular occurence. Baz Bar is the place for impromptu music – Jimmy Buffett has been known to drop in and do a session – and the sushi is very good too. 

Lots of people who come here stay in villas – WIMCO and Sibarth are both outfits that offer completely organised and well-stocked houses. Which makes cooking at home a pleasure because the quality of food here is so good. There is top fresh lobster, and fino, a local, pink fatty fish that’s perfect for tartare. You’ll find a great butcher called Boucherie Ché Yo’ in St Jean, just behind the airport, and Le Ti-Marché in L’Orient is the place for passion fruit, avocados and rum from Guadeloupe. There’s an abundance of liquor stores on the island, because there is no tax on alcohol. At Marché U, which is one of the biggest supermarkets, there’s a sommelier and a seriously impressive wine selection – they’ve been known to stock Pétrus.

The shopping here in general is excellent, with some one-offs you’ll not find elsewhere. The leather and pearl bracelets by Mignot and Trésors de St Barth make good gifts. I’m not a smoker, but if you’re into cigars you’ll find them from Cuba – and all over the world, really – at Casa del Habano. And Loulou’s Marine on Gustavia Harbour is a kind of brass-tacks, practical place, full of marine-canvas tote bags and supplies – and some nice Breton shirts. 

All of this is wonderful, of course, but I hope that the island stays small. It will never be like the 1970s again, but equally, there will never be a big golf course or a hotel with hundreds of rooms. The island is looking very green again after Irma, finally. And everyone makes you feel so welcome. So it’s still a petite paradise.”