Jacques Grange’s perfect weekend in Paris
The interior designer’s bold, eclectic style has won over clientele as varied as Francis Ford Coppola, Karl Lagerfeld and, most recently, LVMH’s Cheval Blanc resort in St Barths
The interior designer’s bold, eclectic style has won over clientele as varied as Francis Ford Coppola, Karl Lagerfeld and, most recently, LVMH’s Cheval Blanc resort in St Barths
“Saturday starts with eggs and bacon at Le Relais Plaza at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée. This old-world hotel is like a home away from home and it’s an important part of my weekend routine.
After breakfast, I’ll walk through the Tuileries and on to the Palais-Royal, where I love the garden and the galleries that surround it. Pierre Passebon’s Galerie du Passage is a treasure trove of 20th-century furnishings and decorative arts, as well as photographs and sculpture. Another stop is By Terry for fragrances. Terry de Gunzburg has created a subtle one I like called Bleu Paradis. If I’m in the mood for clothes shopping, I’ll stop at Victoire Homme just around the corner – great for casual jeans and jackets. For more formalwear, I’ll head straight to Loro Piana for shoes and impeccably tailored shirts.
After a morning of browsing, I’ll head to Saint-Germain-des-Prés for more art and antiques. It’s technically part of my “work”, but I love it. Galerie Alexandre Biaggi specialises in furniture and decorative arts from the late 1930s and early ’40s and is a must, as is Galerie l’Arc en Seine for 20th-century lighting and furniture by Pierre Chareau and Paul Dupré-Lafon. India Mahdavi is another highlight: fun pieces by a talented architect and designer.
I’ll stop for a late lunch at Brasserie Lipp – a classic spot with authentic food and the perfect Parisian atmosphere. The pot-au-feu here is the ultimate comfort food. It’s ideal for people-watching – I always sit downstairs, never upstairs, as it just doesn’t have the same lively feel.
Next up might be a visit to the Calder-Picasso exhibition at the Picasso Museum, or I might go to see the Oceania show at the Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac. The Musée Yves Saint Laurent is another wonderful institution – and not because I designed the exhibition spaces! I go for the interesting mix of retrospectives and new programming.
Saturday night is for friends. We will start with a drink in the magnificent garden at Laurent, followed by dinner at Le Duc. It’s so uncontrived – the food is fresh and simple and the room feels like a small, intimate club. I love fish and Le Duc excels at seabass and salmon tartare, followed by grilled red mullet or turbot.
Sunday morning begins much the same as the day before, but perhaps with Greek yoghurt and strong coffee and reading Le Figaro and the Financial Times. I like to walk when I’m in Paris, including all over the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen flea market, and especially the Paul Bert Serpette antiques market for dealers such as Xavier Chollet, who specialises in 19th-century French and Italian art and furniture, and Olivier d’Ythurbide and Benoît Fauquenot for rare 17th- and 18th-century objets d’art. I can spend hours exploring before having lunch at the Philippe Starck-designed Ma Cocotte. The seabream ceviche and the beef tartare are favourites, but everything is excellent.
Sunday winds down over dinner with friends and since Le Stresa, my beloved local Italian, is closed that day, I’ll go back to Le Relais Plaza, where my weekend began. They have the best steak tartare in town and I love the art deco ambience. Chances are I will be travelling somewhere the next day, so I’m in bed early, ready for the week ahead.”
Three-Day Weekends from Washington, D.C.
Need some quiet weekend plans away from the action/adventure/machinations of Washington, D.C.? We have a few ideas.
Need some quiet weekend plans away from the action/adventure/machinations of Washington, D.C.? We have a few ideas.
WASHINGTON, D.C. – Sometimes it can be hard to forget that there's a whole world out there beyond Capitol Hill. But it's true! Pastoral charm, double five-diamond meals, and views of the Blue Ridge Mountains are within reach of the weekend.
Here are a few places to start:
It doesn't get more charming than this. Photo courtesy of The Inn at Little Washington.
SPERRYVILLE, VIRGINIA
If you're in the mood for: scenic hikes and truly stellar meals.
Route to take: The 72-mile drive takes approximately two hours by car. Don't miss the scenic Skyline Drive that winds through the Shenandoah National Park and features waterfalls and starry skies.
Your agenda: Chef Patrick O'Connell at The Inn at Little Washington oversees one of the world's only double five-diamond establishments where chawanmushi (warm, local duck egg “tea cup” custard with ginger-scented Asian tea) and carpaccio of herb-crusted baby lamb loin are the orders of the day. Once in a blissful food coma, repair to one of the historic Relais & Chateaux's sumptuous suites and take in the garden views.
Avoid the Sunday blues: Check out will be depressing, so stock up at the Inn's Tavern Shop where chef O'Connell has selected exquisite kitchen items, including Laguiole knives and artisanal cheeses.
Ah, the country life. Photo courtesy of Red Fox Inn.
MIDDLEBURG, VIRGINIA
If you’re in the mood for: a romantic weekend with a backdrop of rolling green hills and grazing horses.
Route to take: Drive a little over an hour on Route 50 east of Washington, D.C.
Your agenda: The charming Red Fox Inn was established in 1728 and has been visited by historical greats like George Washington, John F. Kennedy, and Elizabeth Taylor. Try The Goodstone Inn & Estate Restaurant for farm-to-table French cuisine sourced from the onsite organic herb and vegetable gardens.
Avoid the Sunday blues: With a glass of RdV Vineyards' Lost Mountain cabernet sauvignon at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The intimate winery accepts tastings by appointment only, so book in advance.
Swish! Viceroy Snowmass Delivers Family Fun, Especially on Skis
Fathom contributor Christina Ohly found everything she needed for a family-friendly luxury ski vacation under one roof outside Aspen in Snowmass, Colorado.
Fathom contributor Christina Ohly found everything she needed for a family-friendly luxury ski vacation under one roof outside Aspen in Snowmass, Colorado.
Viceroy Snowmass
Snowmass, Colorado
Modern, $$ (from $235)
Snowmass is a great family playground, especially during ski season. There is varied terrain for all ability levels, and the village is quaint. But it was lacking in the luxury hotel sector until Viceroy Snowmass came along and infused a little Scandinavian chalet chic into the area. With its slopeside location, state-of-the-art spa, and varied dining options, it is the place to position yourself if you're looking for a relaxing getaway — particularly with kids in tow — as the ski-in/ski-out location can't be beat. The Viceroy's lower level ski shop makes rentals, lift tickets, and ski instructor meet-ups (all pre-arranged through a concierge) a breeze, and helpful ski valets attend to children's boot buckles and hand warmer needs. The resort feels very high-touch, but in a low-key, LEED-friendly way. When the snow melts, you can head to the slopes for hiking, biking, and other summery outdoor activities.
The lobby at Viceroy Snowmass.
The pool and bar.
Claims to Fame
All 173 spacious rooms — from 375-square-foot studios to sprawling four-bedroom suites, many of which have recently been renovated — are furnished in dark woods, with pullout sofas, lovely throws, and gourmet kitchenettes. Anything larger than a one-bedroom comes with washer-dryers, which not only make light work of wet gear at day's end, but also cuts down on packing needs. (Clearly, a parent was involved designing these stylish yet functional spaces.) The subterranean spa, which can do wonders for unexpected altitude sickness, has treatments and rituals inspired by the Ute, local Native People. But the biggest claim to fame has to be the location. Just above the Assay Hill lift, you have access to 3,000+ acres of perfectly groomed trails and won't have to worry about missing the last lift back to your lodge after the last run, as is often the case with other properties.
What's on Site
The Viceroy is a self-contained unit. If it's a spa weekend you're after, you'll never have to leave. Skiers and nature warriors, however, will delight in a host of offerings that starts with a hearty breakfast buffet of breakfast burritos and blueberry-lemon quinoa pancakes at Toro Kitchen and Lounge, which becomes the hotel's fine dining restaurant by night. After fueling up, your warming ski boots are an elevator ride away. The valet at Four Mountain Sports will help with skis, poles, and replacing the inevitable lost mitten. Ski instructors will meet you right here, which lessens the chance of kid (or parent) meltdowns.
Après-ski offerings are a plus as well: welcoming hot chocolate and s'mores, a sleek outdoor pool, a fitness room for anyone with energy to spare, and an inviting bar all beckon. Friday nights throughout the ski season feature nighttime celebrations at nearby Elk Camp where tubing, snowshoeing, ice skating, and snow biking are all on offer and are easily accessible by nearby gondola. Summer brings outdoor events like bike rides, rodeos, and outdoor concerts.
The bar at Nest Public House.
Toro Kitchen and Lounge.
The Food
Breakfast, the most important meal of any ski day, is delicious, varied, and filling, as are dinners of Colorado rack of lamb at chef Richard Sandoval's Toro. But it was a lunch of grilled shrimp tacos at Nest Public House that won my heart. A new bar extension of Nest means you can eat near the pool and the lift. An easy ski run takes you to Base Camp Bar & Grill, the restaurant next to the hotel's ski shop, where light chopped salads and creative sandwiches are served quickly for the skier who wants to get back on the mountain.
Aspen, seven miles down the road, is a true foodie town. So it's worth leaving Snowmass to explore such culinary gems as Casa Tua, Matsuhisa, and Meat & Cheese, the area's latest and greatest restaurant-cum-charcuterie market.
Rooms with a View
Virtually every Viceroy room has a sweeping view of Roaring Fork Valley and trails, but I highly recommend east-facing rooms overlooking the Assay lift for a family of four. The one-bedroom, sizable suites feature pullout sofas that work for younger kids. Streamlined gas fireplaces throw off serious heat, which lends the separate spaces a cozy feel. For a total house party, four-bedroom apartments include communal living spaces and great views of the surrounding peaks at twilight. Avoid north-facing rooms that look out over the access road to the main village. Not nearly as pretty.
A kid's room at Viceroy Snowmass.
A spacious hotel room kitchen at Viceroy Snowmass.
This Place Is Perfect For
Anyone who likes design-led spaces and close proximity to ski lifts. Viceroy is perfect for families, as rooms are configured for sharing and are often interconnected. The hotel's Very Important Kids program will appeal to the younger set, with movies, games, bowling, and more.
But Not So Perfect For
A quiet couples weekend. Viceroy is kid central, and while they do it in a quiet, casual way, school vacation times are packed with small people.
Book It
Rates vary seasonally and start at $235 per night. Click here for reservations. Or contact the Fathom Concierge and we'll book your trip for you.
Guest room details.
CHECKING OUT
Neighborhood Vibe
Snowmass Base Village just underwent a major renovation. A new ice rink and a five-story indoor climbing wall located in the recently opened Limelight Hotel Snowmass offer more reason than ever to stick around Snowmass, but if you're looking for a change of scene, you're certainly at no loss for options. Aspen Snowmass consists of four mountains, all accessible on one lift ticket: In addition to Snowmass, there's Aspen Mountain in Aspen town, lower-key Aspen Highlands, and xtreme-sports-friendly Buttermilk.
Your dedicated Aspen ski and snowboard instructor will accompany you to any of the mountains, making for a seamless ski experience on many varied terrains.
What to Do Nearby
For a small mountain town, Aspen is packed with cultural offerings — galleries, lectures, museums, events. One of the newest is the Shigeru Ban-designed Aspen Art Museum with its rotating contemporary art exhibits and stunning rooftop café.
Food is another central focus, from the world-class sushi at Matsuhisa and Kenichi, to fine dining at Cache Cache and Casa Tua. For a lighter meal in a casual, buzzy atmosphere, head to Meat & Cheese on East Hopkins Avenue, where abundant cheese boards are accompanied by pickles, preserves, and crackers and porchetta assortments are ideal for sharing. The wood-fired pizzas at Mezzaluna make it a perennial kid favorite, and its location near Aspen Mountain ensure added après-ski entertainment. Top off any hard day outdoors with a finely crafted cocktail at Aspen's newest speakeasy, Bad Harriet, at Hotel Jerome.
Nordic skiers will love the Aspen Cross Country Center for its 25+ miles of trails. Lessons and gear are available through Ute Mountaineer.
Ashcroft Ski Touring is another great bet and offers cross country skiing through an old ghost town, just twelve miles from Aspen.
Keep Exploring Aspen/Snowmass
Fathom's Aspen Guide
What's New in Aspen 2019
Re-Losing My Virginity On The Slopes
Snowmass Is Ski Heaven for the Whole Family
The Aesthete: Dominique Lévy talks personal taste
The art adviser, collector and dealer co-founded the international Lévy Gorvy gallery, which represents the likes of Yves Klein and Frank Stella
Dominique Lévy at home in New York | Image: Weston Wells
My personal style signifier is a piece of jewellery – a wearable sculpture, really – from my grandmother, by the artist César, to whom she was very close. It’s made of family heirlooms – gold and pearls – that were melted down and compressed into an amulet I wear as a necklace. It is the essence of my hero – my grandmother – and a whole life story in one accessory. I wear it to every art fair and opening.
Löffelobjekt by Beate Kuhn | Image: Weston Wells
The last thing I bought and loved was a ceramic piece, Löffelobjekt, by the artist Beate Kuhn. It has beautiful flux and movement and I was lucky to find it as her works are quite rare. Jason Jacques Gallery, 29 East 73rd Street #1, New York, NY 10021 (jasonjacques.com).
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a thick cashmere sweater bearing the slogan “Meditate” by California-based label The Elder Statesman. I like the story behind this maker and also that it’s in the bold colours of the flag of my birthplace, Switzerland. $1,555; elder-statesman.com.
Elder Statesman cashmere Meditate sweater, $1,555
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Sushi Noz in New York. It’s an eight-seat place with an authentic 19th- century Japanese Hinoki counter, and the entire omakase presentation was just perfection. The cedarwood finishes and subtle lighting set the stage for chef Noz’s memorable yellowtail sashimi and other small, flavoursome plates. 181 East 78th Street, New York, NY 10075 (sushinoz.com).
Sushi Oz, an eight-seat Japanese restaurant in New York
And the best souvenirs I’ve brought home are stones from the beach on Antiparos in Greece. I collect stones wherever I go, but these are in shades of pink and white and subtle green. I keep them in vases in my office as well as in my Hamptons home, and I am constantly adding to and editing my collection.
Stones picked by Lévy from the beach on Antiparos in Greece | Image: Weston Wells
New York’s La Mercerie, an “eating and shopping” space
A recent “find” is La Mercerie in SoHo in New York – a very special “eating and shopping” environment overseen by a wonderful French chef. The food is delicious and the atmosphere feels like being in someone’s home. After a recent meal I bought a fabulous set of placemats. It all feels like Paris meets Amsterdam, but in New York. 53 Howard Street, New York, NY 10013 (lamerceriecafe.com).
The best gift I’ve given recently was a 24ct- gold bangle by jeweller Aurora Lopez Mejia to someone special. Her bracelets are very personal, made up of significant numbers and letters, which make her pieces one of a kind and very meaningful. From $18,000; auroralopezmejia.com.
The indulgences I would never forgo are very dark chocolate and Japanese whisky – but not necessarily together! Villars from Switzerland is my chocolate of choice; it’s made without added sugar and I like to snack on it throughout the day. In terms of whisky, I love Hibiki, which combines subtle woody and sweet flavours. Hibiki, £64.95 for 70cl; thewhiskyexchange.com. Villars, about £2.50 for 100g; villars.com.
My favourite room in my house is my dining room. I can be en famille or entertaining 20 and it always feels cosy. The sculptural centrepiece is a table with bronze feet by artist Alma Allen that I commissioned for this room. And a handblown chandelier by glass artist Jeff Zimmerman just makes the whole space work.
Craig Green’s perfect weekend in London
The three-time recipient of the British Fashion Awards’ menswear designer of the year accolade is celebrated for his experimental but accessible aesthetic, and has collaborated with names from Moncler to Ridley Scott
The three-time recipient of the British Fashion Awards’ menswear designer of the year accolade is celebrated for his experimental but accessible aesthetic, and has collaborated with names from Moncler to Ridley Scott
“I live in Colindale, north London, near to where I grew up because that’s where my old friends are. It’s my escape from the frenetic fashion world. It’s just at the edge of the city so it has many parks and a real village feel. Everyone at the pub knows your name, just as they’ve known your family for generations. My local is the Greyhound in Church End, where my dad still goes.
I rise early and start Saturday mornings with a large cup of cold milk infused with coffee. I use instant; it sounds awful, but it tastes incredible. It’s a habit I picked up from my partner, Angelos, and it’s the perfect start to the day. I admit I spend part of the weekend working, but I love what I do, and it comes with the territory of having an independent business.
When I’m not in the studio, I might walk on Hampstead Heath, but for culture I’ll head for the Hayward Gallery in the Southbank Centre. I’m a fan of brutalist architecture and dream of showing a collection there one day. I also love the Barbican and the Whitechapel Gallery for their brilliant programming.
I’ll often have lunch with friends in Sunny Hill Park, near home. I love the Middle Eastern-inspired food at Sunny Hill Café, especially the falafel. But the Serpentine is always an adventure, so on a nice day I might walk through Hyde Park and have lunch at the café there.
I’m always interested by Machine-A, a Soho boutique that showcases a lot of young London-based designers; it’s often the first store to stock their collections, making for an interesting mix of experimental up-and-coming independent labels alongside more established brands.
Whenever I am in central London I seem to end up in Selfridges. I used to go with my parents as a kid and there are always exciting things happening in the store – especially on the fashion floors.
Back in north London, Kiplings Tandoori has been our family go-to for years – but Jun Ming Xuan in Colindale is a newer favourite: it’s possibly the best Chinese restaurant in London. They serve dim sum by day, but in the evening it becomes a white-tablecloth kind of place with dishes such as grilled chicken dumplings and pork ribs.
I might then head to the Everyman Cinema in Hampstead. I love the disaster and horror genres and I’m obsessed with zombie films like Sleepwalkers by Stephen King. Even if I’m home early, I stay up late watching these movies, much to Angelos’ chagrin: he’s more of a Woody Allen type.
On Sunday mornings I’ll have something a light breakfast, then do a bit of shopping. Dover Street Market in Mayfair is incredible for design inspiration, even if I’m not buying. I have a sweet tooth and the Rose Bakery there is amazing: I always opt for cakes that look rustic and homemade versus faux fancy.
If the weather is good, I might make for the Towpath Café on Regent’s Canal – it’s great for people-watching and they serve excellent sandwiches. The De Beauvoir Arms in north London is another favourite. Their chorizo with red wine is so good we talk about it in the studio all week.
The day usually winds down at my mum’s house where we gather for a roast. Everyone hangs in the garden and I’ll escape home at around 8pm to just listen to music or read. I used to look forward to leaving town at the weekends, but now my week is such a whirlwind and I travel so much, being home is the ultimate luxury.”
Serious ski kit from a burgeoning Aspen brand
Aztech Mountain creates high-tech kit with off-piste style
Aztech Mountain creates high-tech kit with off-piste style
For those preparing to hit the slopes, Aztech Mountain’s high-altitude e-shop has high-performance clothing covered – and very stylishly so. The Aspen, Colorado-based skiwear specialist was founded in 2013 by passionate skiers Anthony Rutgers and David Roth, and later joined by six-time Olympic medallist and World Cup champion Bode Miller. This is kit designed with hardcore skiers in mind but transitions easily to everyday urban life.
Aztech Mountain stretch-nylon Capitol Peak jacket, $1,300, and stretch-nylon ski pants, $725
Aztech Mountain’s jackets in particular have developed a cult-like following. The wool Multi Nuke jacket ($1,895), for example, fuses a high-tech waterproof yet breathable wool fabric (called Schoeller C-Change) with stretch nylon to provide streamlined protection, while the Hayden 3 Layer Shell jacket ($895) is a versatile and lightweight option made more with spring skiing in mind – and comes in colour combinations of black, white and Aspen green. The tech specifics are clearly detailed for each item, from information on ventilation and waterproofing to powder skirts, detachable hoods and practical pockets – along with “Bode’s Notes”, a short anecdote about what makes that piece special from both a stylistic and performance perspective.
Aztech Mountain wool and stretch-nylon Multi Nuke jacket, $1,895
Aztech Mountain wool Lenado shirt/jacket, $795
The Aztech Mountain ski pants ($725) are “warm but lightweight, with tons of stretch and an elongated waistband that keeps me comfortable while skiing hard,” says Miller; the quilted Lenado plaid shirt/jacket ($795) is his “favourite outer layer on warm spring days while ripping groomers”. Rounding out the ruggedly chic offerings are laidback merino-wool-blend sweatpants ($350) and technical layers such as the Ashcroft sweater ($475), which combines Italian yarn with a water-repellent Teflon coating and a print inspired by the peaks of Colorado’s Roaring Fork Valley.
Neal Benezra’s perfect weekend in San Francisco
The director of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art oversees the largest modern art collection in the US after a recent $305m renovation and expansion of the institution
The director of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art oversees the largest modern art collection in the US after a recent $305m renovation and expansion of the institution
“I’m up by 6am, even on a Saturday, and I’ll escape catching up on work emails by making a breakfast outing to Plow on Potrero Hill, where they make the most fantastic lemon ricotta pancakes.
Saturday mornings are great for farmers’ markets, such as the small but excellent one on 24th Street, near my home in Noe Valley. I am an improvising cook so I go by what is fresh, but I’m a particular devotee of broccolini and California artichokes. While there are many vendors I love, Cowgirl Creamery is a favourite for superb cheeses, especially a good, sharp Gorgonzola.
With the food shopping done, I’ll head to Browser Books on Fillmore Street. I’m still a store shopper as I like to feel a book’s weight, see the colour and the typeface. Aesthetics are important and this intimate shop is a rare treat these days.
Lunches are casual and, if my daughter is in town, we might go to a burger joint called The Ramp on San Francisco Bay. Then I’ll take in some of the Bay Area art scene, which is having a moment. As well as established places, there are interesting new ones popping up; I’ll wander around Dogpatch, home to the Minnesota Street Project’s communal galleries and the McEvoy Foundation. Then, just below the Bay Bridge on the Embarcadero sits Pier 24, an exciting space for photography set up by the Pilara family.
Because San Francisco is such a foodie city Saturday night reservations can be tough to get, so my wife Maria and I go early for dinner, followed by a film. A great spot is Tartine Manufactory in Mission. The space has a huge energy and the food is creative and delicious. I’ll have pork ribs with pumpkin-seed salsa and some of the bakery’s legendary bread – I take a hiatus from my low-gluten diet there. It’s in the same building as Heath Ceramics, so there is always a little shopping to be done while you wait.
Movies are a passion and there is no shortage of interesting cinema in this city. We’ll go to The Clay or Castro. I love these old-world movie houses and the Castro still has its 1920s frontage and an organist who plays before each screening.
Sundays we might head to Point Reyes and hike before having oysters for lunch at one of the funky shacks on Tomales Bay. Cycling is another passion and I love to head down to the peninsula, where I’ll ride around Palo Alto and Portola Valley – it’s less hilly than San Francisco and safer. The weather in the city can be dicey and it’s amazing that it is so warm and sunny just 30 miles away. It takes about 45 minutes to get there, but after a two-hour bike ride and a visit to the Anderson Collection at Stanford University, I feel I’ve had a complete mental cleanse.
Back in the city, the evening might involve another film at Modern Cinema at SFMOMA or the Pacific Film Archive at the Berkeley Art Museum. Dinner is at Out the Door, a Vietnamese in Fillmore that serves imaginative dishes like Shaking Beef – filet mignon with watercress, red onion and lime. Then I like to read the papers – from The New York Times to the Financial Times. We are a long way from the world’s major art capitals and it’s likely I’ll be flying to China, Abu Dhabi or New York the next day. Luckily, my weekends are about family and having some semblance of a life – that way I feel recharged and ready for the week ahead.”
The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2019: You Love Your Third Wheel
In this year's edition of the World's Most Romantic Hotels, we're celebrating the third wheel. Too often maligned as the wedge that can drive you and your beloved apart, we'd rather think of the third wheel as the force that draws you together, the shared passion that cements your bond. Remember, you've a big heart and a whole lotta love to give.
If You Love Each Other and You Also Love...
...ADRENALINE
Tordrillo Mountain Lodge
Judd Lake, Alaska
What's to Love: A multimillion-dollar revamp by thrill-seeking owners (Olympic gold medalist Tommy Moe and Alaskan heli-ski pioneer Mike Overcast) takes the heart rate to new heights at this five-star, multi-sport wilderness lodge. A 40-minute floatplane flight from Anchorage lands guests in the remote Tordrillo Mountains, where stylish digs, fancy chefs, a lakeside sauna, and in-room massages round out helicopter-based adventure experiences all year long. An accomplished guide team leads guests in skiing and snowboarding through steep gullies and powder fields. Summer calls for glacier hiking, wake surfing, waterskiing, wildlife viewing, and catching the Northern Lights at night.
Photos by Tanveer Badal.
...THE BEACH
Hotel Esencia
Riviera Maya, Mexico
What's to Love: You land in Cancun and drive an hour south. You turn left into the edge of the jungle and are escorted via golf cart through a thicket of vines — cue the peacocks calling out their welcome — emerging onto the quietly grand former estate of an Italian duchess, who you're told built this place to be near her lover. You pass turtles swimming a small cenote, pause for afternoon tea in the sitting room, and check into your room — a sea of white punctuated by a colorful pillow, a dramatic palm frond. Two pools await, as does a secluded beach along a gentle bay. Go-go Tulum is close by, as are excellent archaeological and ecological sites, but if all you want to think about is morning yoga, another bottle of Casa Madero rosé, the guacamole and tacos at Mistura restaurant, and getting back to the day bed along the shore, you're making the right decision.
Photos courtesy of Southern Ocean Lodge.
...GOING TO EXTREMES
Southern Ocean Lodge
Kangaroo Island, Australia
What's to Love: There's no such thing as half measures when you're about as far south as you can go before hitting Antarctica. The hotel design is dramatic and impressive: Suites sweep out from the open-plan common area in a descending crescent shape, framed by a private beach on one end and a cliffside walk on the other. There's nothing but nature wherever you look, whether out to sea from your unobstructed balcony or at the surrounding greenery on your leisurely walks. (Keep your eyes peeled for wallabes in the brush.) The food is local and amazing, and you'll want to smuggle the sheep's cheese in your mini-bar back home. When you manage to tear yourself away to explore the natural wonders throughout the island, SOL's knowledgeable guides (like Phil, the @Southern.Ranger) will tell you everything you need to know about the sea lions, kangaroos, koalas, and raptors who outnumber people down here.
Photos courtesy of Villa Tre Ville.
...CINEMA
Villa Tre Ville
Positano, Italy
What's to Love: If you've ever fantasized about dating — or being — Marcello Mastroianni, you can take dolce vita dreams to the next level by checking into the Amalfi Coast cliffside estate that was the home of legendary Italian director Franco Zeffirelli (yes, the one who did Romeo and Juliet, speaking of romance...). He spent decades restoring and designing the cliffside property so every striking detail is infused with drama, resulting in spaces that look like Italian and Moroccan stage sets and rooms named for pals like Maria Callas and characters like Tosca. Aperol spritzes appear out of nowhere, the swimming is fabulous, and the hotel's skiff will whisk you off to Da Adolfo for lunch or to Positano for a pizza at the drop of a hat.
Photos courtesy of Babylonstoren.
...THE SIMPLE LIFE
Babylonstoren
Simondium, South Africa
What’s to Love: If you’ve ever longed to turn back time to an era where people lived on farm estates and grew their own food, this is the spot for you. The charming 500-acre Cape Dutch farm is straight out of a magazine spread, with bountiful fruit orchards and vegetable patches, friendly farmhands in matching uniforms, and simple but elegant white-washed guest cottages. Upon arrival, a general feeling of peacefulness and well-being will descend. This is how life should be, you’ll think to yourself, and for a few days that is. You’ll be immersed in the world of a working – albeit highly stylized – farm, where mornings start with an epic breakfast spread of fresh produce, homemade breads, cheeses, and yogurts, and eggs from the resident free-roaming hens. A state-of-the-art winery, serene spa, two swimming pools, hiking trails, mountain bikes, and farm shop offer plenty to see and do, but it’s dinner at Babel, the estate’s award-winning restaurant, that will be most memorable.
Read More About It: Babylonstoren Is a Technicolor Salad
Photos courtesy of The Lowell.
...MANHATTAN
The Lowell
New York, New York
What's to Love: Evoking everything that's wonderful about old-school, discreet uptown, the intimate boutique hotel feels so timeless that it would be so easy to ignore Central Park and Museum Mile (mere steps away) and lose yourself inside. Start with cocktails at Jacques Bar, followed by a Mediterranean-infused French meal at Majorelle. Settle for a nightcap in the deep sofas in the Club Room, then wander upstairs, where the fireplace is roaring at the foot of your bed. Wake up, have room service on the terrace, and do the whole thing all over again.
Photos courtesy of Six Senses Yao Noi.
...GOING WILD
Six Senses Yao Noi
Phang Nga Bay, Thailand
What's to Love: If you want to stay in the jungle and live like Swiss Family Robinson meets Richard Branson, stay here. This place manages to combine the luxury of good bedding, good food and beverage, an all-day ice cream parlor, and a superlative spa with the mystery and authenticity of a Thai jungle. The materials are all natural (there is a huge focus on sustainability and local craftsmanship) and there's not a single piece of plastic in sight. Hop on a tuk tuk for a ride around the teeny island to see rubber plantations, rice paddies, a modest market, and the jade green sea, or take a boat out for a day to enjoy limestone cliffs and a warm dip. A bottle (or two) of the Six Senses local (yes, Thai wine!) rosé makes lunch that much more special.
Photos courtesy of Taylor River Lodge.
...YOUR KIDS
Taylor River Lodge
Crested Butte, Colorado
What's to Love: Open from late May through mid-October, the off-grid locale deep in Taylor Canyon is a woodsy wonderland perfect for families. There are private cabins with various set-ups — lofts, bunk beds, kitchens, and a teepee lounge. The all-inclusive rate includes not only food and drink (and an awesome mini bar), but activities like river rafting, axe-throwing, fly fishing, mountaineering, shooting BB guns (you'll shoot yer eye out, kid), and access to the beautiful pool cabin.
Photos courtesy of Singita.
... YOUR INNER BEAST
Singita Boulders Lodge
Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa
What’s to Love: If it’s an adventure you’re after, look no further than this secluded twelve-suite lodge on a private concession adjacent to South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Set along the wildlife-rich banks of the Sand River, the impressive safari lodge offers some of the best service we’ve ever experienced in one of nature’s most primitive environments. Days revolve around early-morning and late-afternoon game drives with a personal safari guide and tracker. Your goal: spotting Africa’s Big Five (lions, elephants, buffalo, leopards, and rhinoceros), along with other native species like hippos, zebra, giraffes, impala, and the elusive wild dog. Both exhilarating and utterly relaxing, each excursion feels like its own journey with a surprise ending. Come afternoon, you’ll retire to your private suite, a tranquil standalone villa that looks like it was carved out of the earth: Stone walls and large glass windows make it difficult to tell where your room ends and nature begins. A private plunge pool and outdoor shower will tempt you to hole up in your suite, but the rest of the lodge, with its swimming pool, spa, fitness center, and boutique, is worth exploring. We’d be remiss to not mention the delicious food, which is overseen by award-winning chef Liam Tomlin, and the lodge’s extensive wine cellar.
Photos courtesy of Beaumanière.
...MICHELIN FEASTS
Baumanière
Lex Baux de Provence, France
What's to Love: A boutique hotel in the heart of picturesque Provence with luxurious surroundings — gardens, pools, and five distinct buildings with chic simple rooms — and one of the most wonderful restaurants anywhere. Sit outside in summer and savor fresh vegetables from their garden or sip Petrus in the 50,000-bottle wine cellar. Whatever the case, you need never leave this picturesque property. A weekend here feels completely restorative.
Read More on Fathom: Double the Fun Meets Double the Favor in Provence
Photos courtesy of Ill sereno.
Il Sereno
Lake Como, Italy
What's to Love: Set on the shores of Lake Como, this Patricia Urquoila-designed property is all stone and glass — elements that won't compete with the surrounding natural beauty. Rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows and minimalist furnishings to maximize the views. The infinity pool is a thing of beauty, as is the hotel's fleet of classic boats that were handcrafted by local artisans and boat-making legend Daniele Riva and feature the old-school aesthetics of classic lake boats updated with Urquoila's chic fabrics and finishes.
Photos courtesy of Off the Map Travel.
...OUTER SPACE
Aurora in Bed
Tromso, Norway
What's to Love Is this a dream you're living? You're sleeping outdoors on a rooftop, cuddled under duvets, watching the Northern Lights stream and dance overhead. You've checking into the recently renovated Villa Telegrafbukta, which can sleep up to six, should you feel like sharing. If you haven't pulled all-nighters under the galaxy, you can spend days exploring fjords and islands. This is available only through travel Off the Map Travel from September through March, though December through March is the best time to see the Northern Lights.
Photos courtesy The Alpina Gstaad.
...A GREAT SPA
The Alpina Gstaad
Gstaad, Switzerland
What's to Love: Set in the Swiss Saanenland, the uber-chic boutique hotel has a traditional chalet vibe and is the height of farmhouse luxury. The sumptuous spa is all natural wood and stone — no gilt here! — and does everything from color therapy and salt treatments to Green Caviar Facials and killer couples massages in a cave room. This spa is so comprehensive — and so Zen — you'll feel reborn.
Contributors: Berit Baugher, Jeralyn Gerba, Stephanie March, Christina Ohly, Pavia Rosati.
Love Is in the Air
See Them All: The Most Romantic Hotels (by destination)
The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2018
The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2017
The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2016
An inspired website of woven furniture
Atelier Vime offers vintage and contemporary wicker and rattan creations from its historic South of France base
Atelier Vime offers vintage and contemporary wicker and rattan creations from its historic South of France base
From the heart of Provence comes an online emporium bursting with beautiful furniture, lighting and decorative objects, almost all crafted from wicker and rattan. Atelier Vime is based in the small village of Vallabrègues, in what was once a grand 18th-century family home before morphing into a vibrant wicker workshop in 1878. Reviving both this historic building and its accompanying craftsmanship are Anthony Watson and Benoit Rauzy, who together created Atelier Vime in 2016 to showcase fine vintage examples – important Gio Ponti and Tito Agnoli chairs, for example. Next they paired up with designer Raphaëlle Hanley to create an accompanying contemporary collection produced by their own craftsmen in wicker harvested from the surrounding Camargue region.
Rattan XXL Aramis Suspension light, €2,840
There are bold statement-making pieces such as the XXL Aramis Suspension light (€2,840), appealing to a growing global clientele that includes noted interior designers Pierre Yovanovitch (who commissioned a huge light for a Tel Aviv project) and Francis Sultana. Lighting is a strongpoint – from the large sun-like Gabriel Suspension light (90cm diameter, €980; 150cm, €1,380) to the smaller and simpler Solo Cone pendant €340) and Edith floor lamp (€980). There are also retro-chic Constellation mirrors (€995) and fine wickerwork baskets (price on request) traditionally braided into octagonal forms.
c1960 Italian rattan and brass desk, price on request
These new designs are mostly handmade to order, with production taking eight to 10 weeks, but the site’s robust vintage section is full of gems ready to be shipped worldwide – be it a rare 1960s rope and glass table Mod lamp (price on request), a c1960 Italian rattan and brass desk (price on request), a c1950 pair of emerald-coloured rattan satellite-style chairs (price on request) or a 1947 wood and straw bed (price on request) by the famed French pioneer of modernism Charlotte Perriand.
A long weekend in Zürich with Daniel Humm
The chef behind Manhattan’s world-beating Eleven Madison Park talks his hometown’s finest – from church spires to scrumptious bratwurst – with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Rita Palanikumar
The chef behind Manhattan’s world-beating Eleven Madison Park talks his hometown’s finest – from church spires to scrumptious bratwurst – with Christina Ohly Evans.
When people think of Zürich, it’s often banks or high-end watches that come to mind, but really it’s a historic, intimate city with an incredible quality of life. What makes it so special – besides the surrounding nature and the fact that it’s so central in Europe – is the Swiss. They’re just good citizens, always polite and respectful of the rules. Most people here speak four languages – or two at a minimum – and travel extensively, which gives them a worldly perspective that I don’t always find elsewhere.
What’s also wonderful about Zürich is that it hasn’t changed: the medieval houses and the Fraumünster church in the old town, with its green steeple, have been left totally alone. These buildings were beautiful when built, and strict architectural codes mean they will remain that way forever. There have been enhancements over time, of course, and the infrastructure is just incredible: trains, trams and buses all run on time, and are all clean and safe – in fact, I don’t think there’s a better public transport system anywhere on earth. To illustrate the point, I took a recent trip on a Swiss train and it ran 12 minutes behind schedule; the conductor explained over the intercom that this delay was due to a problem on the French side, not theirs. The Swiss are never late.
St Peter Church at Christmas time
We are a small country surrounded by Germany, Austria, France and Italy, so there are many influences in terms of culture and food, but at the end of the day we are farmers and that’s reflected in our classic cuisine. You don’t come to Zürich so much for global cuisine, but for sausages and rösti – which have a real sense of place. I don’t want to eat sushi here.
Visitors have a lot of choices when it comes to great hotels. The family-run Baur au Lac is one of my favourites; it’s a really traditional place, not flashy at all, with beautiful views of Lake Zürich and the Alps. It’s good if you need to access the financial district, or for shopping on the nearby Bahnhofstrasse. Its fine-dining restaurant, Pavillon, is in a sort of indoor garden; I always make a point of eating here because the chef is so talented. While the menu changes frequently, his food is always elevated but with a classic foundation.
Another great place to stay is the Widder Hotel in the old town. It’s made up of a series of medieval townhouses that have been cobbled together, and it strikes the balance between old and new perfectly. There are only 49 rooms here and each one is different from the others: some have views of the surrounding cobblestone streets and others have unexpected touches, such as an iconic Eames chair. Taken all together, it’s quite charming. The Storchen Zürich, right on the River Limmat, falls into this quaint category too. It has existed since the 14th century, and while the hotel was recently updated, its signature storks can still be found on the walls and the views of the church spires are fantastic.
Of course, food is central to any Zürich experience, so I like to start the day at John Baker. Yes, that is literally the name of the best bakery in Zürich: it’s co-owned by Jens Jung, an artisan who comes from a long line of bakers – he spent some time at the wonderful Tartine in San Francisco, where he learnt from the best, before coming back here to make breads according to Swiss traditions. Another win for breakfast is the café Confiserie Sprüngli. I particularly like the cakes, the colourful Luxemburgerli macaroons and the chocolate truffle-filled brioche. One of those with a morning cappuccino, is perfection.
The Limmat river flows through the old town
Konditorei culture is very important in Zürich life. Café Schober is a very cute, authentic spot that serves an excellent Gugelhupf, a traditional cake made with almonds and raisins, while Teuscher is the place to go for every imaginable type of chocolate – and a good coffee.
When it comes to restaurants, it’s best to approach things by type of cuisine. Kronenhalle is an institution and in addition to great (and authentically Swiss) food, you’re surrounded by masterpieces by the likes of Picasso and Rauschenberg – even the lights are by Alberto Giacometti. The bar here is an ideal place for a cocktail and beef tartare, before moving on to a dinner of sliced veal with rösti. The service is very old-school; I think it’s an absolute must.
Kronenhalle is a Zürich institution decorated with works by Picasso and Rauschenberg
For a truly Alpine feel, I like Obere Flühgasse in the old town. It’s really tiny, all done in warm woods – and the mixed salad with bacon, consommé and rösti feels very local. In winter, I always order vermicelles – a dessert made of chestnut purée that’s very specific to Switzerland. I had a magnificent steak frites at Wystube Isebähnli, a 25-seat bistro in the old town with a big focus on wines as well (the menu, created using seasonal produce, changes every week). The best food in town, however, is at the bratwurst restaurant Sternen Grill – every local knows this place. It’s great for a veal sausage with a beer, not to mention top people-watching – you’ll see people from all walks of life here.
Beyond the excellent food, this is a city of great churches and museums. The Grossmünster, with its windows by Sigmar Polke, is one of its monumental highlights. St Peter church – which can boast having Europe’s largest tower clock face – is another one to see, as is Fraumünster, which has those beautiful stained-glass windows created expressly for the church by Marc Chagall in the 1970s.
49-room Widder Hotel is made up of a series of medieval townhouses
Whenever I come back from New York, I stock up on things that can only be found here and think it’s a good way to shop. Among the first stops should be Schwarzenbach, purveyor of all kinds of teas, spices, vanilla, dried exotic fruits, nuts and jams. They’re very knowledgeable and I go there to learn. Buchbinderei, a tiny paper store in the old town, is exceptional for stationery and handmade cards. Another one that’s a definite must is the Odeon Apotheke, a gorgeous pharmacy and a good place to buy all kinds of Swiss skincare by super-local brands.
For really motivated shoppers, the 40km drive to Vitra stockist Betz, in Schauffhausen, is totally worthwhile for the Jean Prouvé designs alone. There’s also the Markthalle under the old viaduct in Zürich-West – it’s kind of like London’s Borough Market meets Manhattan’s High Line – and there are all kinds of shops and food vendors tucked into the old arches. It’s fun to see how a formerly industrial part of Zürich has evolved into something very cool.
In terms of cultural institutions, it’s hard to beat either the Kunsthaus Zürich – with its permanent collection that includes works by Cy Twombly and Mark Rothko – or the Pavillon Le Corbusier. This is the last building the architect designed before he died, and it’s a mixture of glass, steel and colourful panels that contrast beautifully with the nature all around. For contemporary art, it’s Hauser & Wirth, set in a great, lofty warehouse space in a relatively unknown part of town, but always showcasing the greats of today.
Outdoor life is another big focus here. People hike, bike and swim in the Limmat river in summer. One of the best places to engage with nature like a local is Flussbad Oberer Letten, near Zürich-West. This is basically a public swimming pool with decking and places to eat, drink or just relax. To get a mix of art and nature, visit the Zürichhorn – a massive public park where you can walk along the shore of the lake and where you’ll find the humorous Heureka sculpture by Jean Tinguely. During the winter months you can travel just one hour from the city and you’ll be skiing.
Because Zürich is so international there are obviously lots of outside influences coming in, but my hope is that the city and its people will focus on the unique things it has to offer. The level of taste here, the overall aesthetic, is so on point, never overdone; you can see it in the work of such brilliant Swiss architects as Peter Zumthor and Herzog & de Meuron. And the cuisine! The cheeses, the yoghurt, the meats; they are really some of the finest in the world. The city should continue to celebrate them, instead of importing sushi.
Meet Fathom Contributor Christina Ohly
Meet Fathom Contributor Christina Ohly
Hometown: Currently NYC, but I consider London home as well. I was born in Washington, DC, but raised in Woodstock, Vermont.
Occupation: Writer and consultant.
Favorite destinations: Too many to mention. Italy: both city (Rome, Florence) and country (Umbria, Tuscany, Ischia, Amalfi anywhere); France: Paris, near St. Remy; Spain; Harbour Island, Bahamas; most of New England but particularly coastal Rhode Island; California, both south (I love LA) and north (SF, Santa Barbara, Napa).
Dying to visit: India, Mozambique, Argentina, Fogo Island, the Scottish Highlands, and Shanghai. Again, the list is endless.
Bizarre travel rituals: I pack so much food because you never know and I can't stand gross, processed foods. In my cold sack, you'll find fruit, vegetables, Wasa crackers, and cheese sticks. I've clearly been stuck on one tarmac too many. I also start packing (clothes, not food) many days in advance, then edit the bag at least three times leading up to the trip.
In-flight relaxation regime: Watching an entire season of something mindless (cooking shows, anything BBC, any of the Real Housewives) on my iPad on long-haul flights. I read stacks of magazines and newspapers — fashion and travel top the list, but I love it all, from international editions of Vogue to The FT to cheesy celeb weeklies and back issues of The New Yorker.
Always in carry-on: BlackBerry; disinfecting hand wipes; snacks (Zone bars, crackers, gum); Le Métier de Beauté lip gloss; hair ties; and a wallet with pictures of my kids, cash, and my lucky charm — a horseshoe pin given to me by my grandmother.
Concierge or DIY? DIY for most things, especially flights because I tend to change them and like dealing with airlines directly. I am happy to outsource restaurants to a hotel person, though OpenTable has changed the playing field.
See it all or take it easy? See it all. I am not so great at relaxing and I hate to miss a meal, a shop, an experience.
Drive or be driven? Both. I love taxis and taxi drivers, as they provide so much local color, history, and great food knowledge — though, of course, this is destination-specific.
Travel hero: My husband. He can get stuck in China, do weird back-to-back redeyes via L.A. and Dallas, and still remain cheerful. He doesn't get flustered, doesn't freak out about the weather, and is always kind. He just goes with the global travel flow.
Weirdest thing seen on travels: I've seen some seriously bad behavior on the NYC to Florida flight routes. It is amazing to see the screaming, yelling, and bad manners that people will throw at an unsuspecting flight attendant. But the weirdest/saddest was seeing a drug mule pulled off a plane. It was later explained to us that law enforcement can spot mules because they are so uncomfortable in Western clothing and are often wearing new shoes. The poor guy looked beyond terrified; it was all quite a circus.
Best hotel amenity: Packed lunches for the plane at Curtain Bluff, Antigua; wellies and mud gear at The Mayflower Inn and Spa, Washington, Connecticut; the freshest fruit plates at The Hotel Caruso, Ravello, Italy.
I dream about my meals at Zuma in London (I love their black miso cod and robata grill dishes) and The Polo Lounge in LA (chopped salads are divine). I even love a simple plate of lentils at NYC's Fairway Cafe or the best poppy seed bagels in the world at 72nd Street Bagels on the Upper West Side. It's a dive but totally delicious!
Everywhere I go I check out the food markets — from supermarkets to farmer's markets to bakeries, butchers, cheesemongers.
When I arrive in a new place, I learn the lay of the land by walking, eating in restaurants full of local color, and talking to taxi drivers.
I always bring home some article of clothing reminiscent of a country, a piece of jewelry, and a Christmas tree ornament or two for my family's tree. I always forget the fruit in my bag, which doesn't go over too well at customs these days.
If I never return to Russia, it'll be too soon because I almost starved to death there. I am a big consumer of fruit and vegetables and these were fairly tough to come by.
I travel for the local color. I love hearing people's stories, seeing their daily routines, and learning about their cultures.
Fantasy Island
The small British Territory of Bermuda, is riding a wave of great culture, food and design.
Design Boom
In Houston, America’s Energy Capital, the art and architecture scene is big - and only getting bigger
“Tokyo’s Trunk Hotel is like a chic LA friend’s house”
A cool Shibuya lunch spot with first-rate people-watching potential
A cool Shibuya lunch spot with first-rate people-watching potential
I am definitely not edgy enough for Tokyo’s Trunk Hotel, a design-led boutique bolthole-cum-social spot in the subculture capital of Shibuya, but I loved it all the same. I came here for lunch on a local recommendation and was immediately taken with the space. Consisting of two discrete, four-storey structures in a proliferation of natural materials conceived by Mount Fuji Architects Studio, this laidback hotel offers a zen respite from the bustle of colourful manga cafés, Izakaya gastropubs and karaoke venues just beyond.
Grilled meat skewers at Trunk Kushi restaurant | Image: Trunk Hotel
As I walked into the welcoming communal spaces and dining areas, Trunk struck me as being like a cool LA friend’s house, with a clientele of tastemakers from the worlds of fashion, design and technology adding to the ultra-hip vibe. I arrived early for lunch, so kicked back in the lounge to indulge in a spot of people-watching. The street fashion and overall diversity in the lobby space were completely fascinating; even if you just come for a drink, I highly recommend grabbing a spot on one of the leather-lined sofas and taking it all in.
Trunk provides an alternative to Tokyo’s skyscraper hotels | Image: Trunk Hotel
Dishes from a seasonal set menu, from about £20, at Trunk Kitchen | Image: Trunk Hotel
It’s also well worth staying on for lunch or dinner, as the food is the real standout at Trunk. There are two restaurants, both of which I sampled during my brief visit. Traditional Shibuya soul food is the star of the show at Trunk Kushi, where local restaurateur Yuji Tani oversees the local speciality of grilled meat skewers, but it was Trunk Kitchen that won my heart. First, the setting overlooking the hotel’s serene terrace is stunning; second, its fusion menu really hits the spot. After a week of sushi and heavy tempura, the simply grilled fish with Edo vegetables, and a perfectly seared Wagyu burger – washed down with the hotel’s own-brand beer produced by Tokyo’s venerable Ishikawa Brewery – were exactly what I was craving.
The Terrace Suite, from about £4,800 | Image: Trunk Hotel
I also took a quick tour of the hotel – from its modernist chapel to some of its 15 spacious rooms and suites. The sleek Terrace Suite (from about £4,800) with its sprawling patio is particularly appealing, but all the rooms, decked out in a neutral palette with plenty of glass and dark wood, offer a slice of Japanese serenity. This low-key alternative to the city’s abundant skyscraper hotels is without a doubt where I will be staying on my next trip to Tokyo.
The Aesthete: Pierre Yovanovitch talks personal taste
The interior architect designs art-filled, ultra-refined yet sensuous homes and retail and gallery spaces for global clients such as Kering
The interior architect designs art-filled, ultra-refined yet sensuous homes and retail and gallery spaces for global clients such as Kering
Pierre Yovanovitch at home in Paris | Image: Emmanuel Fradin
My personal style signifiers are my shoes by Pierre Hardy, some of which reference the work of major artists, and my mostly Dries Van Noten wardrobe. I’m a low-key person, so my clothing and accessories tend to be fashionable yet classic. My Mylon glasses by Mykita – the first item I put on in the morning – are another signature of mine: they’re ultra-light and the matte finish is in keeping with my simple aesthetic. driesvannoten.be. mykita.com. pierrehardy.com.
Pierre Hardy leather Oxfords, €795
The last thing I bought and loved was a ceramic vase by the American artist Karin Gulbran. It’s a very abstract, minimal, light-blue and brown vessel that works with the neutral colour palette I love. From $13,000; Pierre Marie Giraud, 7 Rue de Praetere, 1050 Brussels (+322-503 0351; pierremariegiraud.com).
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a “nest” seat by the South African designer Porky Hefer. His one-of-a-kind pieces are made from cane and rattan, and I’d love one for an outdoor space at my château in Provence; it would make the perfect reading nook. Fallen Nest, £11,000; animal-farm.co.za.
Ceramic vase by Karin Gulbran, pieces from $13,000
The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a half-length wool coat from Acne that I bought in New York. It’s stylish, simple and in a rich navy blue. As I get older, I think blue clothing is generally much better than black. £900; acnestudios.com.
Fallen Nest seat by Porky Hefer, £11,000
The best gift I’ve received recently was an intricate “eye” embroidery by Lesage Intérieurs, given to me by Jean-François Lesage, grandson of the maison’s founder. This astonishing piece was commissioned for L’Erotomanie de Mlle Oops, the exhibition I conceived for the Toulon Design Parade last summer. It now hangs in my office. lesageinterieurs.com.
Cotton- and wool-thread, soft-wire and chenille “eye” embroidery by Lesage Intérieurs | Image: Sudakar
The site that inspires me is the Brother Klaus Field Chapel, in Mechernich, Germany, by the architect Peter Zumthor. Set in a remote field, this striking art chapel features a poured-concrete exterior and a beautiful triangle-shaped silver door. There is no roof, so when it rains, the water is collected inside, which adds to the spiritual atmosphere. Iversheimer Strasse, 53894 Mechernich (feldkapelle.de).
Brother Klaus Field Chapel, Mechernich
The people I rely on for personal grooming are Philippe Campana and his wife, Geneviève, at Louis G, a hidden hair salon in Paris’s 7th arrondissement. It’s a very discreet, no-fuss place – no music or anything too trendy. It still has the original 1970s feel and I like the very professional stylists who keep my longish hair that way. From €60; 4 Rue du Bourgogne, 75007 Paris (+331-4551 3039).
Ligne Blanche porcelain JM Basquiat Glenn tray
My favourite room in my house is my bedroom – spacious and sparsely decorated but still warm and inviting. In the 70sq m space there is only a large bed and two pieces of meditative art, along with lots of rough-hewn oak and natural light.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the 1st arrondissement in Paris. Galerie Eric Philippe is wonderful for Scandinavian design, while Ligne Blanche is great for tabletop finds – especially the plates. The owner is passionate about art and does collaborations with the estates of Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat and many others. Hermès is always a favourite for chic clothes and scarves. After all that shopping, I like Cibus – a tiny, really authentic Italian restaurant that serves the best organic, seasonal dishes, such as homemade linguine with wild mushrooms, or octopus with haricots verts. Cibus, 5 Rue Molière, 75001 (+331-4261 5019). Galerie Eric Philippe, 25 Galerie Véro-Dodat, 75001 (+331-4221 1793; ericphilippe.com). Hermès, 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 (+331-4017 4600; hermes.com). Ligne Blanche, 18 Galerie Véro-Dodat, 75001 (+331-4482 5748; ligneblancheparis.com).
My favourite websites are all very visual. I often look at Jacksons, of Stockholm, for furnishings and Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac for inspiration. jacksons.se. ropac.net.
12 days of Christmas Yule logs
’Tis the season to indulge in a traditional bûche de Noël or Yule log. From classic woodland-inspired cakes to chic contemporary sculptures, these edible artworks can be enjoyed around the world…
’Tis the season to indulge in a traditional bûche de Noël or Yule log. From classic woodland-inspired cakes to chic contemporary sculptures, these edible artworks can be enjoyed around the world…
Hôtel de Crillon Paris
Hôtel Crillon’s head pastry chef Pablo Gicquel took inspiration from the fluted columns of the palace hotel’s Suite Marie-Antoinette when creating this sweet treat. Gicquel’s pillar-shaped cake (€120) is infused with a rich blend of almonds, blueberries and blackcurrant jam hidden inside a Languedoc almond mousse. Serves six to eight; available from December 1 (+331-4471 1525; crillon-paris.com).
Hôtel Plaza Athénée Paris’ bûche de Noel is an edible forest | Image: Studio des Fleurs
Hôtel Plaza Athénée Paris
Executive pastry chef Angelo Musa – a winner of the World Pastry Cup and Best Craftsman in France award – and pastry chef Alexandre Dufeu have moved beyond the traditional design of the Christmas log to create an edible forest for their 2018 bûche de Noël (€120). Seven “snow”-covered trees, made from Madagascar vanilla cake, biscuit, cream and mousse, sit atop a dark chocolate mendicant bar covered with dried and crystallised fruit, creating a centrepiece that is a decadent alternative to the traditional pudding. Serves seven; available from December 1 (+331-5367 6597; dorchestercollection.com).
Le Meurice Paris’ bûche de Noël
Le Meurice Paris
This Christmas, pastry chef Cédric Grolet has designed two Yule logs (€50 or €98), both inspired by his signature chestnut-filled Mont Blanc dessert. The first cake combines chestnuts and mousse on a roasted chestnut base with hazelnut praline. The second delicacy – served only at Restaurant Le Dalí – features roasted chestnuts with a lemon-flavoured hazelnut praline for added zest. The first cake serves either three to four or six to eight people. The smoked chestnut log at Restaurant Le Dalí is available from December 5 to 31, every afternoon from 3.30pm to 6pm – except December 25 – at lunch or dinner for €25 per slice (dorchestercollection.com).
La Réserve Paris’s trompe l'oeil-inspired Yule log
Le Bristol Paris bûche de Noël
Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris
Maison Pierre Hermé Paris has created a sculptural Christmas Médélice cake (€126) for the grand Parisian hotel this Christmas that is reminiscent of a winter wonderland filled with snowy peaks and glaciers. The design is dusted with white chocolate “snow”, which melts in the mouth, giving way to layers of lemon cream, candied lemon and jelly, and hazelnut praline. Serves six; available from December 14 to 31 by reservation 48 hours in advance (+331-4299 8864; leroyalmonceau.com).
François Perret’s bûche de Noel for The Ritz Paris | Image: Aimery Chemin
Epicerie Boulud has a selection of Yule logs available in store this Christmas
La Réserve Paris
La Reserve’s two-Michelin-starred executive chef Jérôme Banctel and head pastry chef Adrien Salavert have combined their exceptional skills to create a golden Yule log (€95) inspired by the printed cordovan leather that lines the hotel’s Le Gabriel restaurant. Inside the gilded cake is a blend of Michel Reybier champagne and refreshing fruits: mango, passionfruit, pineapple and coconut. Serves six to eight; available until December 23 by reservation only (+331-5836 6060; lareserve-paris.com).
Park Hyatt Tokyo’s bûche de Noël is a Japanese take on Christmas cake
Pastry chef Dominique Costa has crafted a contemporary bûche de Noël with an Asian aesthetic for Peninsula Paris
Le Bristol Paris
Pastry chef Julien Alvarez, named World Pastry Cup champion in 2011, presents a feast for the eyes and table for 2018. His trompe l’oeil design is a truffle Yule log (€140) like no other. It presents as a wooden box with an engraved bronze plaque, which, on closer inspection, is in fact part of the cake – every inch edible. Inside, what appears to be truffles turn out to be sweet treats, made from soft biscuit and hazelnut with creamy hearts of gianduja (a sweet chocolate spread with hints of vanilla) and real black truffles. Serves eight; limited editions available from December 1 to 31 (+331-5343 4342 or email cafeantonia.lebristolparis@oetkercollection.com).
Mandarin Oriental Paris channels Alpine slopes and snow-covered firs with its Christmas treats | Image: Mathilde de l’Ecotais
Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo crafted a culinary artwork with Le Bois dans Ecrin
The Ritz Paris
This year, The Ritz Christmas log (€110) is all about honey – specifically, the grand cru Erica variety sourced in the Pyrénées. Pastry chef François Perret has combined the delicacy with a Savoy sponge cake and whipped cream, topped with roasted gianduja almonds. The final pièce de résistance is a lacy wafer that is a nod to honeycomb dipped in chocolate. Serves six; available to order from December 1 (+331-4316 3274; ritzparis.com).
Epicerie Boulud New York
Daniel Boulud has created a selection of bûches de Noël for 2018 that are gourmet works of art. The colourful collection includes a Chocolate Caramel log decorated in gold leaf, which is a combination of Illanka tonka bean and dark chocolate mousse, caramel crémeux and flourless chocolate biscuit. The Exotique cake fuses passion fruit and banana mousse, roasted pineapple, mango confit and coconut dacquoise confection, while The Chestnut Blackberry Yule log is layered with mousse, blackberry gelée, chestnut biscuit, blackberry mousse and chestnut vermicelli. Last but not least is a chocolate and coffee Classic Opera cake topped with chocolate Santas. Serve six to eight; available to preorder and in stores from December 18 (epicerieboulud.com).
Park Hyatt Tokyo
The Bûche Tokyo (¥4,500, about £31) is a Japanese take on the Christmas cake. Think Uji matcha tea mousse, surrounding a centre of tangy yuzu curd, and matcha tea sponge layered with toasted sesame crunch, resting on a crisp sable biscuit. The finished creation is so beautiful, it’s almost shame to devour it… Serves three to four; available from December 21 to 25 (+813-5323 3462; hyatt.com).
Peninsula Paris
L’Ecrin (€98) by pastry chef Dominique Costa is a contemporary bûche de Noël with an Asian aesthetic, which is presented as a case that opens to reveal a delicious bûche. Sandalwood-smoked chocolate mousse smoothers a molten mandarin core, with a buckwheat crisp biscuit infused with dulce de leche. Serves six to eight; available by reservation 48 hours in advance from December 17 to 31 (+331-5812 2888; paris.peninsula.com).
Mandarin Oriental Paris
Chef pâtissier Adrien Bozzolo has created an elegant contemporary design inspired by Alpine slopes and snow-covered firs for Christmas 2018 (€78). The white chocolate trees rest on a crunchy biscuit filled with citrus fruit and pecans, and a mandarin orange marmalade flavoured with maple syrup. Serves eight; available to order 48 hours in advance from December 21 to 31 at the hotel’s Cake Shop (mandarinoriental.com).
Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo
Executive chef Christophe Cussac and pastry chef Patrick Mesiano have conjured a culinary artwork in Le Bois dans écrin (€95) or “forest in a box”, which is “wrapped” in an edible carmine red box, revealing a realistic-looking “log” composed of biscuit with creamy cazette ultra fondant and a gourmet icing with chocolate and hazelnut chips. Available to order from December 10 (metropole@metropole.com).
The Aesthete: James Taffin de Givenchy talks personal taste
Maverick designer James Taffin de Givenchy’s spectacular high jewellery uses unexpected materials such as wood and rubber alongside precious gems
Maverick designer James Taffin de Givenchy’s spectacular high jewellery uses unexpected materials such as wood and rubber alongside precious gems
My personal style signifiers are the modern‑retro Jimmy watches of my own design that I have in all different colours: I wear a gold version for dressier occasions and a steel and titanium piece for a sporty feel. Also, my French-cuff shirts, which are made for me by Ascot Chang, and the cufflinks that I design using combinations of wood and gold, carved hard stones or ceramic and steel with gold. ascotchang.com. Watch, from $8,000; cufflinks, from $4,000; taffin.com.
His Taffin watch, from $8,000 | Image: Weston Wells
The last thing I bought and loved was a vessel made of recycled plastic by the Brooklyn-based artist Shari Mendelson, whose pieces often resemble antique glass. This one is translucent with silver elements and is currently displayed in my showroom. sharimendelson.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a calligraphic painting by Mark Tobey. His work is truly modernist, in the Pollock style, and although I have two of his works, I’d love one more.
Two pairs of cufflinks designed by de Givenchy, from $4,000 | Image: Weston Wells
The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a pair of Linea di Corsa race-car driving sneakers. This Parisian label has redesigned the classic car shoe and made it fun and colourful, and the handstitched details really add to the appeal. I’ve got a couple of pairs. Jarama Crudo shoes, €129; lineadicorsa.com.
His Shari Mendelson vessel | Image: Weston Wells
An indulgence I would never forgo is riding motorcycles – despite falling off them a lot since I was 16. I own a Ducati 1198S, a BMW R90 and a Ducati Monster. In New York, I like to ride up Bear Mountain; in LA, there’s nothing better than cruising along the Pacific Coast Highway.
His late brother Hubert’s wooden tape measure | Image: Weston Wells
The last book I read is The Little Book of Schiaparelli by Emma Baxter-Wright. My uncle Hubert worked for Elsa Schiaparelli for four years before starting his own brand, and that is where he met his life partner, Philippe Venet. She was very avant-garde, and her fashion is still relevant. The book looks at her collaborations with artists like Dalí, Picabia and Cocteau – it’s an easy, entertaining read.
Nathaniel Russell House in Charleston
The best gift I’ve given recently was a series of 13 signet rings bearing our family crest, for my daughter, nieces and nephews. I went for steel, as it’s fun and modern. I don’t often see them all, so I hope these rings serve as a memory of our family time together.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Semilla in Paris. All the food was excellent, but particularly the épaule d’agneau served with confit potatoes. I took my daughter there one summer night – we sat outside and the people-watching was as good as the meal. 54 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris (+331-4354 3450; semillaparis.com).
An object I would never part with is a little wooden tape measure that looks like a pebble. It belonged to my late brother, Hubert, like our uncle, who was an interior designer and always kept it in his pocket. I treasure it.
If I didn’t live in New York and Harbour Island, the place I would live is Charleston, South Carolina. I’m tiring of big cities and find the Southern charm and hospitality very inviting. From the historic Nathaniel Russell House to the contemporary Dewberry hotel, which serves great Old Fashioneds, this small city has so much to recommend it. The food scene is excellent: the restaurants Fig and Butcher & Bee are world class, while the Second State Coffee shop has a very warm local feel. Butcher & Bee, 1085 Morrison Dr, 29403 (+1843-619 0202; butcherandbee.com). The Dewberry, 334 Meeting St, 29403 (+1843-558 8000; thedewberrycharleston.com). Fig, 232 Meeting St, 29401 (+1843-805 5900; eatatfig.com). Nathaniel Russell House, 51 Meeting St, 29401 (+1843-724 8481; historiccharleston.org). Second State Coffee, 70.5 Beaufain St, 29401 (+1843-793 4402; secondstatecoffee.com).
My favourite apps are ARTnews, Artdaily, National Geographic and The Economist – although I prefer to get my news from an old-school paper. I also follow Paintguide and The Blue Review on Instagram to discover interesting artists.
Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte opens for the first time at Christmas
Guests of La Réserve Paris can check in for a two-night VIP experience – and spend the night before Christmas in sumptuous style
Guests of La Réserve Paris can check in for a two-night VIP experience – and spend the night before Christmas in sumptuous style
An opulent Christmas Eve can be found at Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, as the private estate opens its doors to guests of La Réserve Paris – its first major collaboration with the hotel and the first time in its history that it’s been open at Christmas.
Guests will enjoy a dinner prepared by La Réserve’s two-Michelin-starred chef Jérôme Banctel, accompanied by the wines of Clos d’Estournel | Image: Collectif Image
The event will see a small group of up to 15 friends and family whisked away from the Parisian hotel by helicopter to the countryside setting of Maincy, and the largest privately owned property in France – a château set in sweeping gardens realised in 1661 by architect Louis Le Vau, painter Charles Le Brun and the Sun King’s landscape designer André Le Nôtre.
Following a tour of the historic building, the festivities will begin with dinner prepared by La Réserve’s two-Michelin-starred chef Jérôme Banctel. In addition to seasonal celebratory offerings, guests will be treated to the wines of Cos d’Estournel. The memorable evening is set to conclude with a literal bang as the party moves to the gardens for a glittering fireworks display.
The sumptuous interior of Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte | Image: Collectif Image
The evening is part of a two-night package (priced from €239,000 for up to 15 people), and the Parisian leg of the trip is also filled with festive treats – an entire floor of the hotel will be made available for the party’s private use and they will enjoy a customised cruise on the Seine, special VIP access to the Eiffel Tower, a behind-the-scenes tour of the Louvre and “off-hour” access to some of Paris’ finest boutiques and maisons.
Juan Pablo Molyneux’s perfect weekend in Champagne
The contemporary classicist’s illustrious interiors and opulent restoration projects traverse the globe and include royal palaces, historic châteaux and private homes
The contemporary classicist’s illustrious interiors and opulent restoration projects traverse the globe and include royal palaces, historic châteaux and private homes
“Saturday morning begins with walking my three dogs – an Alsatian shepherd, a Porcelaine and a Labrador retriever/terrier mix – who are as happy to be in the countryside as I am, with only the sound of the birds chirping.
My château, where the black swans, geese, turkeys and wild peacocks are out in force, is in Champagne-Ardenne, an easy and beautiful drive from Paris. The landscape is so refreshing: it’s green all year round, and we’re surrounded by quaint villages, each with a church dating from the 11th to the 13th century.
If the weather is nice after my walk, I’ll play tennis, or go for a horseback ride. Haras de Villechétive, a lovely stable nearby, brings the horses ready to ride, so all we have to do is explore.
Then, my wife Pilar and I will go to the farmers’ market in the village of Villeneuve-l’Archevêque, a place so atmospheric that you want to smell, touch and eat everything; the white asparagus, the melons, the seasonal berries and tomatoes all remind me of my childhood in Chile. There is also a wonderful boulangerie called Brissonnet Sylvain, where they sell a delicious speciality called Villeneuvien, a cake made with layers of the lightest crêpe.
One of the most magical towns in the area is Sens. It’s home to one of Europe’s earliest gothic cathedrals and was one of the most important medieval towns in France. My château was built as a fortress for Sens; you’ll see this architectural style all over the region, with buildings that are square and imposing, each with four towers, a moat and a dungeon.
After a morning in Sens, we might go south to Troyes, where the Musée Saint-Loup holds all kinds of archaeological and fine art masterpieces, such as Philippe de Champaigne’s La Réception du duc de Longueville dans l’Ordre du Saint-Esprit among the most important paintings.
For an excellent lunch, we’ll continue on to La Côte St Jacques in Joigny: the food, particularly the Bresse chicken steamed in champagne and the seabass with oscietra caviar, is the best of France.
On Saturday night we’ll have guests and cook what we bought at the market, or we might head to Auberge du Cygne de la Croix in Nogent-sur-Seine. It’s a simple restaurant with a warm atmosphere – the terrine maison is unmissable. Le Moulin du Landion, in a 18th-century water mill, is another lovely place for a night out. The cuisine is rustic but with sophisticated touches, and everything from the foie gras to the salads smells so fresh.
Sunday morning typically involves one of the brocantes – travelling antique markets. Moulins has one of the best in the region for 18th-century French country furniture and decorative objects such as candelabra. One of my favourite finds was a mismatched dinner service that’s perfect for festive dinner parties.
Taittinger and Ruinart are both close to home, and we like to visit the caves. It’s interesting to see how they store the champagne, but I’m more fascinated with the buildings, a mix of magnificent old arches and modernist elements. The Gallo-Roman chalk mines at Taittinger are now a Unesco World Heritage site, and Ruinart, also in Reims, is a historic site too. And, of course, we never miss the cathedral.
We also enjoy dining later outside at the spectacular Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte. It’s a bit of a drive, but Les Charmilles, the restaurant there, is magical by candlelight. Usually though, we stay home and have a late lunch or Mariage Frères’ black tea and sweets from Maison Caffet chocolatier in Troyes, before returning to Paris.
I almost always go back with a smile, ready for the week ahead. In any case, we bring baskets of freshly picked flowers to carry us through.”
A long weekend in Palm Beach with Aerin Lauder
The scion of the Estée Lauder empire, founder of global luxury lifestyle brand Aerin and Palm Beach habituée shares one-off shops, compelling cultural programmes and top ice creams with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Jeffery Salter
The scion of the Estée Lauder empire, founder of global luxury lifestyle brand Aerin and Palm Beach habituée shares one-off shops, compelling cultural programmes and top ice creams with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Jeffery Salter
“Palm Beach has always been a big part of my life. I grew up spending holidays here with my grandmother [Estée Lauder] and all of my family, and I love the beaches, the sun, the architecture…everything about the place. There is a clear sense of tradition here – people still don black tie for the annual Coconuts New Year’s Eve gala – but there is also an exciting, younger energy in town. The next generation is moving to Palm Beach, and there is an international draw because of its proximity to Miami, so the town feels more vibrant and creative than ever.
My grandmother – who was my mentor – always loved the elegance of Palm Beach; one of her earliest fragrances, Aliage, was inspired by the sporty lifestyle here. Estée always wore white pants, a Pucci shirt and a broad-brimmed straw hat, and my Palm Beach uniform isn’t much different – though I tend to wear white jeans instead. The town is little changed since my childhood; the colours of the bougainvillea, the sculpture gardens and the very specific Mediterranean style of architecture are all wonderfully intact. You’ll find these grand, sweeping estates, as well as beautiful apartments that were built by Addison Mizner in the 1920s. All of these homes and spaces have clear Spanish and Italian influences, with plenty of the white stucco that’s so perfect for the south Florida climate.
The pool at the Italian Renaissance-style Breakers Hotel
Palm Beach’s gardens are some of the most beautiful in the world. The Society of the Four Arts is one of my favourite places not just for flora – there are about 170 plant species including hibiscus, orchids and palms – but also for its incredible sculpture garden, complete with pergolas. It does all kinds of cultural programming – Simon Schama has been here, and documentary filmmaker Ric Burns – as well as concerts and screenings. This is a peaceful place to spend a morning, before heading to the nearby Lake Trail, a bike path that follows the edge of Lake Worth, past boat docks and historic homes and with gorgeous views along the Intracoastal Waterway.
There are all sorts of hotels in Palm Beach, from historical and grand to those with a more boutique feel. But the iconic Breakers, which was built in 1926 in the Italian Renaissance style, is among the best. This is a great spot for everything from tennis and golf to lounging by the pool in one of their cabanas; the spa and gym are perfection too. I’m a big fan of its breakfast buffet – which is served in a massive ballroom that makes you feel like you’re on an old ship. Its relatively new Seafood Bar offers some of the best crab cakes on the island. For a more intimate stay, Brazilian Court has apartment-style suites and also an excellent restaurant by Daniel Boulud, while I like The Colony Hotel in the centre of town for its old-world feel, complete with a beautiful high tea served on the porch.
The heart of Palm Beach is Worth Avenue. You’ll find some of the most incredible shops and restaurants here. One of the most special places, tucked away off Worth Avenue, is Via Mizner – a little courtyard, full of shops and restaurants, that’s on the US National Register of Historic Places. This whole area symbolises the Gilded Age and the work of architect Addison Mizner, whose designs line part of the street. I always encourage people to look up on Worth Avenue, because some of the most beautiful gardens dangle above them; even the palm trees lining the street are lit from below at night.
The shopping here is world class. Kassatly’s – opened in 1923, it’s Worth Avenue’s oldest shop – is a must for towels, while Leta Austin Foster is an institution for luxurious D Porthault linens and children’s clothing. Just next door you’ll find CJ Laing, one of the best places to stock up on cover‑ups, sandals and straw hats. For anyone interested in monogramming and embroidery – of everything, from hand towels to clothing – or even in personalising an order of Oreo cookies, Lori Jayne Monogramming & More is a truly unique find; she will customise virtually anything and her shop is a hidden gem. Hive is another must, for the array of housewares and accessories and, particularly, for the beautiful selection of notecards.
The elegant, old-world patio at Renato's | Image: Nickolas Sargent
In addition to great shopping, Via Mizner has some excellent restaurants. You can sit outside at Renato’s and enjoy really classic, fresh food: roasted baby artichokes and Dover sole in a beautiful setting. For a more casual bite, I like lunch or dinner at the nearby Pizza al Fresco; it has an excellent thin‑crust frutti di mare pizza and a lovely garden under twinkling lights.
What’s exceptional about this shopping area is its mix of old and new; you’ll find names like Valentino just up from a florist, Tom Mathieu, who does incredible arrangements with tropical plants. Trillion is another classic, with a hugely colourful array of cashmere for men and women. Its Italian sweaters in shades of hot pink, mint and purple are perfect for Palm Beach, and the shop is considered an institution for menswear in particular. Worth Avenue is also home to Mary Mahoney, a noted home-decor boutique where I always find unique glassware and Buccellati silver. And for lovers of vintage, there is no better place than Palm Beach because there is always an estate sale on somewhere. And the Church Mouse on South County Road is a treasure trove of everything from antique furniture to 1960s evening bags and clutches by Emilio Pucci.
Via Mizner, a Gilded Age courtyard, is home to many local restaurants and shops | Image: Susanne Kremer/4Corners Images
One of the newer additions to town is Sant Ambroeus in the Royal Poinciana Plaza, a sister to the New York and Milan cafés. I love it for breakfast, lunch, dinner and sometimes a hazelnut gelato from its standalone cart. But I’m actually very loyal to Sprinkles, the local ice cream shop nearby, because I’ve been going there all my life, and the homemade coconut ice cream is outstanding. For even more old-fashioned atmosphere, there’s Green’s Pharmacy on North County Road; it has a traditional soda fountain counter and makes the best grilled cheese sandwiches and vanilla milkshakes in town. You’ll also find things like Whitman’s Sampler boxes of chocolates and practical sun hats. The whole place is purely nostalgic.
For a short road trip, head just an hour south to Miami where the new Surf Club is both sleek and glamorous. The restaurant there, Le Sirenuse, serves food just like the food at the original in the famous hotel in Positano. You actually do feel transported to the Mediterranean.
Chic cover-ups, straw hats and bags at CJ Laing
My grandmother loved Palm Beach for the natural beauty, the sense of tradition and the people. Even today, there’s an embracing of the old world, but also a younger generation that feels tied to the area. The times that I shared here with my grandmother – visiting the Flagler Museum, sitting in the sunroom in her chairs or just cycling along the bike path – I now enjoy with my sons. I always hope that when people come to Palm Beach they access those same feelings of warmth and history. It is a place for people of all ages, with all kinds of varied interests; but Palm Beach hasn’t changed much over the many years I’ve been coming, and that’s what makes it so special.”