Tabitha Simmons talks personal taste: Part Two
The British shoe designer concludes her list of likes with Game of Thrones, the Italian Riveria and roast beef
The British shoe designer concludes her list of likes with Game of Thrones, the Italian Riveria and roast beef
My style icons are many: Karen Elson, for whom I named my first shoe; and Sienna Miller, Poppy Delevingne and Alexa Chung, who all have innate, individual style. These women aren’t afraid to take risks and rely on their instincts to make interesting fashion choices.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the last year is Portofino on the Italian Riviera, which is so beautiful in summer. I stayed at the Hotel Splendido, a spot with the most incredible views of the harbour and the kindest staff, and loved everything about the area – the colourful buildings that line the hillsides, the delicious food, and exploring the surrounding islands, dotted with caves and little coves, by sailboat. Salita Baratta 16, 16034 Portofino (+390185-267 801; www.belmond.com/hotel-splendido-portofino).
Karen Elson | Image: BFAnyc.com/REX Shutterstock
The books on my bedside table are the Game of Thrones series, including A Dance with Dragons, and a stack of National Geographic magazines, which I find quite inspirational; the photography is phenomenal and I love the varied locations and traditional costumes in these pages – I learn about the world here. I also have copies of Katie Grand’s biannual fashion magazine Love and whatever tapestry I am working on; it’s rather granny-like but it’s my new favourite thing.
The last meal that truly impressed me was an incredible English roast served in the oak panelled restaurant at The George hotel in Lincolnshire. It included all my favourite things: roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, potatoes, local vegetables and cauliflower cheese. I could eat this combination of things forever, but this particular meal and the country setting were sublime. 71 St Martins, Stamford, Lincolnshire PE9 2LB(01780-750 750; www.georgehotelofstamford.com).
My favourite room in my house is my kitchen, which is the centre of our Chelsea home. It’s a bright space with a midcentury-modern feel, dark walnut floors and a central island that is surrounded by Giò Ponti-designed dining chairs.
The people I rely on for personal grooming include Tracie Martyn for regular facials and André at the John Barrett salon for my hair colour; he has a secret formula and I have trusted him for many years. I also go to the Dashing Diva nail salon in Chelsea for regular manicures and pedicures. Dashing Diva, 177 Ninth Avenue, New York, NY 10011 (+1212-620 0200; www.dashingdiva.com). John Barrett Salon, 754 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10019 (+1212-872 2700; www.johnbarrett.com). Tracie Martyn, 101 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-206 9333; www.traciemartyn.com).
Royal Suite, Four Seasons Hotel, Florence | Image: Barbara Kraft
If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Florence, ideally in a villa overlooking the Arno. I love the sense of history here, the incredible architecture and artistry. I adore the Uffizi Gallery and the Boboli Gardens and would like to explore both more frequently over time. My shoes are also made in this part of Italy and I would love to be closer to the manufacturing process. I might also stay at the Four Seasons, a meticulously restored former Renaissance palazzo and convent. I visited recently and was blown away by this place: its magnificent 16th-century frescoes, original chapel, and wide-open green spaces and swimming pool that are like oases in the middle of the city. Boboli Gardens, Piazza Pitti 1 (+39055-229 8732; www.polomuseale.firenze.it). Four Seasons Florence, Borgo Pinti 99 (+39055-262 61; www.fourseasons.com). Uffizi Gallery, Piazzale degli Uffizi 6 (+39055-238 8651; www.uffizi.org).
An indulgence I would never forgo is a good massage at The Spa at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park. I don’t have much time for massages when I am at home, but this spa is so relaxing and the therapists so expert that I try to make time for its Oriental Essence massage whenever I’m in town. The facials are wonderful too. £155 for the Oriental Essence massage; Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, London SW1 (020-7838 9888; www.mandarinoriental.com).
Hotel Splendido, Portofino | Image: Tommy Picone
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is exquisite white table linens from Taormina in Sicily. I buy textiles wherever I go, and love these simple, handmade tablecloths and napkins with delicate lacework that isn’t too frilly. I like souvenirs that stand the test of time and can be used on a regular basis.
In my fridge you’ll always find almond milk, oranges for making freshly squeezed juice, rocket for salads and ham and cheese for my children’s favourite sandwiches.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose London’s Chelsea. I love the original Joseph store for its unique fashion mix, as well as the Chanel boutique on Brompton Road. Then there’s the Rag & Bone and Chloé shops near Sloane Square and Harvey Nichols just up the road in Knightsbridge. If I can include a fraction of Mayfair, SJ Phillips remains my absolute favourite source of antique jewellery. Chanel, 278-280 Brompton Road, SW3 (020-7581 8620; www.chanel.com). Chloé, 152-153 Sloane Street, SW1 (020-7823 5348; www.chloe.com). Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1 (020-7235 5000; www.harveynichols.com). Joseph, 77 Fulham Road, SW3 (020-823 9500; www.joseph-fashion.com). Rag & Bone, 13-14 Sloane Square, SW1 (020-7730 6881; www.rag-bone.com). SJ Phillips, 139 New Bond Street, W1 (020-7629 6261; www.sjphillips.com).
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a film and television set designer. I studied this at university and was offered a job at Pinewood upon graduation, which has always left me wondering what if… I love the creative energy found on set.
Kris Van Assche talks personal taste: Part One
Belgian designer Kris Van Assche has been bringing exquisite tailoring and technical flair to Dior Homme since 2007
Belgian designer Kris Van Assche has been bringing exquisite tailoring and technical flair to Dior Homme since 2007
Kris Van Assche | Image: Lea Crespi
My personal style signifier is a Tiffany white gold necklace with a diamond solitaire. It was a gift from my boyfriend who knew I would like the idea of discreet diamonds on a man and the notion that diamonds are forever. It works well with the white dress shirts I wear every day, either with jeans or a suit. www.tiffany.co.uk.
Moynat leather passport holder, £220
The last thing I bought and loved was a leather passport holder from Moynat, which I like so much I have given a few to friends as presents. It is an envelope-shaped case and comes in various colours. They can also emboss it with your initials in a little over an hour. £220;348 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris (+331‑4703 8390; www.moynat.com).
And the things I’m eyeing next are some 1950s French ceramics to add to my collection. I have developed something of an addiction and love pieces – which I find at the big French auction houses like Piasa and Thomas Fritsch, but also at the St-Ouen flea market – by Pol Chambost in particular. Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen, www.marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com. Piasa, 118 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris (+331-5334 1010; www.piasa.fr). Thomas Fritsch, 6 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris (+331-4326 7712; www.thomasfritsch.fr).
Van Assche’s Adidas Ultra Boost trainers, from £130
The last accessory I added to my wardrobe was a pair of Adidas Ultra Boost trainers in a navy, red and grey argyle pattern. They combine lightweight materials and high performance and are one of my favourite collaborations to date. From£130; www.adidas.co.uk.
The rooftop infinity pool at Rio’s Hotel Fasano | Image: Courtesy Fasano
The last music I downloaded was Narin Yalnizlik by the contemporary post-punk Turkish band She Past Away. I love their 1980s sound – it reminds me of the band Sisters of Mercy – and the Turkish lyrics.
Rinus Van de Velde self-portrait in charcoal, 2012 | Image: Lea Crespi
The last meal that truly impressed me was at L’Acajou in Paris’s 16th arrondissement. I love the simple fresh food – like a starter of delicious “forgotten vegetables” served in a little pot – and the setting, which feels a bit New Yorkish, with one low, sleek, black-lacquer communal table. Both the decor and cuisine are very pure. 35 Rue Jean de la Fontaine, 75016 Paris (+331-4288 0447; www.l-acajou.com).
The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellness are my trainer, nutritionist and best friend Adele, with whom I work out three times a week at the Klay club. I’ve been training with her for 11 years and the gym is a beautiful, industrially designed space. And I’ve had my hair cut by Milan at the gents’ hairdresser Cercle Delacre for years. Cercle Delacre, 17 Avenue George V, 75008 Paris (+331-4070 9970; www.cercledelacre.com). Klay, 4 Bis Rue Saint Sauveur, 75002 Paris (+331-4026 0000; www.klay.fr).
If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is Rio. For work there is no other city than Paris, but for great weather and nice people it is hard to beat Brazil. I like Ipanema’s sleekly designed Hotel Fasano, with its rooftop infinity pool; the Oscar Niemeyer-designed Niterói Contemporary Art Museum overlooking the bay and city beyond; and restaurants like Rubaiyat, with its excellent grilled steaks served overlooking the Botanical Garden. Rio provides a welcome change of pace from the Parisian fashion world. Hotel Fasano, Avenida Vieira Souto 80, Ipanema (+5521-3202 4000; www.fasano.com.br). Niterói Contemporary Art Museum, Mirante da Boa Viagem, Niterói (+5521-2620 2400; www.macniteroi.com.br). Rubaiyat Rio, Rua Jardim Botânico 971 (+5521-3204 9999; www.rubaiyat.com.br).
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is the Belgian Rinus Van de Velde. I love his enormous charcoal drawings and have altered a wall in my apartment to accommodate one. His pieces seem radically new and yet somehow traditional; I’d like to own more, but I’d need to move to a bigger place.
An object I would never part with is a letter from my grandmother. We were extremely close. She was in good health until the age of 94, but I think she sensed she would decline thereafter so it’s a goodbye of sorts.
My favourite websites are France’s Le Figaro and De Standaard for all the news from Belgium; I moved away 17 years ago, but like to stay informed. And 1stdibs and eBay for sourcing ceramics from all over the world. www.1stdibs.com. www.ebay.com. www.lefigaro.fr. www.standaard.be.
Radice Apothecary’s hydrating Myrrh Cream
A rich moisturiser with an equally rich Tuscan history
A rich moisturiser with an equally rich Tuscan history
To my long list of Tuscan favourites I have recently added Radiće Apothecary – an under-the-radar organic brand, owned by third-generation Italian pharmacist and herbalist Jasmine Urzia. And it is her Myrrh Cream ($75 for 30ml, pictured) that I am particularly fond of.
After being tipped off about this ultra-lightweight anti-ageing lotion, I have been using it morning and night. The artisanal blend comprises myrrh resin (infused with oils and left to bake in the Italian sun), sandalwood, extracts of avocado and rosehip (which help strengthen skin), shea butter, vitamin E, hemp and jojoba oils. It also contains St John’s wort, a key skin-healing component. Myrrh Cream has a thin, almost milky texture, and I’ve been delighted with its hydrating effects, especially around my eyes.
Although Urzia is now based in New York, she is carrying on the family tradition started by her grandmother, crafting every lotion herself in small batches – all containing organic ingredients from the same Tuscan garden. Radiće Apothecary products are not widely available, nor are they sold online – you have to place an order via email. But as Urzia likes to personally connect with her customers, and even encourages email exchanges about everything from the anti-wrinkle properties of hemp oil to the use of black cumin-seed oil to treat eczema and rosacea, this only adds to the experience. As do the simple 1oz brown jars and bottles, which, helpfully, are airline-approved.
Inna Jam’s curious condiments
A site jam-packed with curious preserves, pickles and chutneys
A site jam-packed with curious preserves, pickles and chutneys
Those with a penchant for curious condiments will rejoice at the discovery of Inna Jam, a California-based e-purveyor of conserves, pickles, chutneys and shrub (a fruit tipple dating from the colonial era), all costing $13.50 each for 10oz. This streamlined site delivers seasonal condiments made from sustainably grown fruit sourced within 150 miles of the company’s kitchen and containing no added herbs or flavourings.
Jars of unexpected Californian crossbreeds include Flavor King Pluot, a native fruit that is a sharp and sweet mix between a plum and an apricot, and Tayberry, a tart raspberry/blackberry, while purebreeds include Obsidian Blackberry, Blenheim Apricot, Damson Plum and Black Mission Fig.
Most popular is a seriously spicy Jalapeño Jam. Served with hors d’oeuvres or employed as a glaze for meat, it uses an entire chilli pepper for added intensity. For those looking for a milder option, try the Not Too Spicy Hungarian Pepper Jam, while Apricot Chutney has a ginger and coriander kick that pairs well with cheeses and charcuterie. Customised sets (a year’s supply of jam costs $150, or there are six jars for $83, four jars for $56 and two jars for $29) make great gifts.
Further foodie delights await at Yumbles, a delectable online farmers’ market, or check out delicious Crown Maple syrups from New York.
Designer Kimberly Ayres and Architect Ken Linsteadt Create a Picture-Perfect Mill Valley Home
Photography by John Merkl
On a charming, tree-lined street in Mill Valley sits a home that melds a traditional, East Coast shingle-style aesthetic with Northern California ease and accessibility. “The house is located in a neighborhood of Craftsman bungalows and clean-lined cottages,” explains architect Ken Linsteadt, “and the owners wanted a casually elegant home that would fit nicely into the tight-knit community.”
The result is a 3,100-square-foot, cedar-clad house where, notes Linsteadt, “a subtle, weathered-gray and white palette is predominant.” With interiors by noted Bay Area designer—and Kelly Wearstler alumna—Kimberly Ayres, the property has a classic feel, but features a mix of contemporary furnishings and unexpected flourishes of color. The surrounding landscape also plays a starring role: “All of the main public spaces flow out to the sun, garden and creek beyond,” explains Linsteadt of the L-shaped house that forms a south-facing courtyard.
This study in contrasts and exquisite finishes begins in the airy entry foyer and continues down a soothing, central front hall featuring floors hewn from French white oak and layered with an oriental rug “that is elegant, yet has a fresh, modern graphic at the same time,” says Ayres. Pendant fixtures by Palmer Hargrave are also new, but their design pays homage to the past. Ayres delights in blending antique elements with modern pieces, and nowhere is this more felt than in the family’s living room, where an exquisite 19th-century French limestone fireplace serves as the focal point. A sumptuous sofa swathed in a classic chocolate-brown Bennison fabric is juxtaposed with velvet cushions in a bright cerulean blue by Travers, while a custom chair in a striking shade of coral adds yet another punch of color.
The dining room is an extension of Linsteadt and Ayres’ approachable design philosophy and feels “cozy and communal,” says Ayres, “not overly formal or underutilized.” Chocolate-brown grasscloth by Phillip Jeffries wraps the room, giving it an intimate atmosphere. Upholstered Henredon chairs—as well as a pair of RH armchairs customized by Ayres—provide plush, comfortable seating, and a bay window functions as both a buffet and rotating gallery space for the family’s porcelain.
Upstairs, the master suite is painted in muted hues. “They wanted a quiet, calm oasis overlooking the trees,” says Ayres, who focused on integrating family pieces—a Baker bed and upholstered headboard; a dresser that was stripped and refinished—while enhancing the space with bespoke Italian bed linens and throws by Sue Fisher King. “Although there are classic design elements and materials, it has an approachable feel at the same time,” explains Linsteadt. “I think it strikes a nice balance.”
A version of this article appeared in the September 2015 issue of San Francisco Cottages & Gardens with the headline: Charmed Life.
Albertine
Rare first editions and a Renaissance night sky single out this opulent New York bookshop dedicated to French literature
Rare first editions and a Renaissance night sky single out this opulent New York bookshop dedicated to French literature
Tucked inside the historic Payne Whitney mansion near Manhattan’s Museum Mile is an exquisite jewel box devoted to classic and contemporary books – some 14,000 of them – with a tie to French literature. Albertine, named after Proust’s object of affection in Remembrance of Things Past, has gained a loyal following, and cultured New Yorkers flock to this Upper East Side gem for its expansive inventory. “We have a mix of fiction and non-fiction as well as some very rare first editions,” says founder Antonin Baudry (right in first picture). “We choose titles that work for a New York audience but are emblematic of France and French culture.”
Conceived as a grand private library, Albertine is set within a Stanford White‑designed landmark, its Italian Renaissance interior reimagined by master of opulence Jacques Garcia. Sofas in deep green velvet and decorative objets sourced from Paris’s renowned Les Puces are interspersed with busts of great figures of French-American culture – Descartes, Benjamin Franklin and Voltaire – that have been crafted by the workshops of the Musée du Louvre.
Image: Weston Wells
The star of the show – quite literally – is the magnificent ceiling mural on the second floor, a Renaissance sky of handpainted constellations and planets in brilliant blue and gold, inspired by the bedroom of Lorenzo de’ Medici and the Villa Stuck in Munich. “This is a Gilded Age mansion with a destination bookshop,” says Baudry. The building has housed the cultural services of the French Embassy since 1952, and Albertine launched with the support of LVMH, Van Cleef & Arpels and many others last year.
On the floor-to-ceiling shelves, filled by shop director François-Xavier Schmit (left in first picture), visitors will find philosophy classics by Foucault and de Montaigne and crime fiction by John le Carré; foodie books from Julia Child’s classics to Note-by-Note Cooking ($25) by molecular gastronomist Hervé This; and children’s favourites including Tintin, Asterix, Babar and Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s The Little Prince ($13).
There are also coffee-table tomes on art (Picasso et les écrivains by Serge Linarès, $254, second picture, and L’histoire de Parispar la peinture by Georges Duby, $485) and fashion (Dior Couture by photographer Patrick Demarchelier, $125, and No 5 Culture Chanel, $175), celebrating the heritage of storied maisons.
A beautifully illustrated, seven-volume set of the Ramayana ($1,283) by French publisher Diane de Selliers is exclusive to Albertine in the US, while rare first editions such as Simone de Beauvoir’s Les Mandarins ($2,000) and Gustave Flaubert’s 1862 Salammbô ($1,400) are displayed in elegant glass vitrines commissioned for Albertine’s quiet reading niche. A well‑subscribed monthly book club enthusiastically led by Monsieur Baudry and a dynamic speaker series complete Albertine’s wide-ranging, thought-provoking offerings.
“I want this to be a place where people discover life-changing books,” says Baudry. “We hope to expose them to new ideas. We also encourage people to linger – Albertine is more like a reading room with a till than a commercial bookshop.” For a bit of France on Fifth Avenue, look no further.
For another beguiling bookshop, see the flagship Maison Assouline in London’s Piccadilly, complete with a bespoke library service and fashionable swan bar, or for more rare finds for the discerning bibliophile, see Los Angeles’ Arcana Booksfor a chic destination shop stocked with design and fashion tomes and out-of-print titles.
Donna Karan talks personal taste: Part One
Designer Donna Karan recently stood down from the eponymous empire she founded over 30 years ago to focus on her philanthropic initiative, Urban Zen
Designer Donna Karan recently stood down from the eponymous empire she founded over 30 years ago to focus on her philanthropic initiative, Urban Zen
My personal style signifiers are a black cashmere scarf and a bold artisan necklace made of wood or stone. The scarf is a way of life for me; it’s a security blanket, a luxurious piece to throw on my shoulder or wrap around myself if I get cold. The necklace – often something I pick up in Haiti from craftswoman Pascale Théard – adds that element of soul and individuality. www.pascaletheard.com.
Karan’s Urban Zen coat | Image: Dorothy Hong
The best gift I’ve given recently was a Ross Bleckner painting called Treasury of Light (Black), to my daughter Gabby. It is a large oil-on-linen piece that looks like a starburst in the dark night sky. I adore Bleckner – for his art and as a friend. We went to Hewlett High School together and have stayed in touch. Mary Boone Gallery, 541 W 24th St, New York, NY 10011 (+1212-752 2929; www.maryboonegallery.com).
And the best one I’ve received is time off. At this point in my life, this is the most precious gift of all.
Florblanca resort, Costa Rica. | Image: Peter Artemenko
The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a slouchy chocolate-brown suede coat from Urban Zen [the label that helps fund her foundation]; I love the softness of suede. I have also ordered a striking gold metallic and black velvet embroidered evening coat from my autumn 2015 collection – a benefit of having my own label. It’s a forever piece. www.donnakaran.com. www.urbanzen.com.
Tutto Il Giorno restaurant, Long Island. | Image: Erik Striffler
A recent “find” is a private house in Santa Teresa, Costa Rica, which was recommended to me by the wonderful manager at the Florblanca resort just next door. Holidays are risky when it’s a new place, but everything about this villa was perfection. The house was comfortable, the views were stunning, and the location – right on the beach – was heavenly. Our days were spent doing yoga, eating at great restaurants and racing quad bikes across the sand. Florblanca, two miles north of Frank’s Place, Santa Teresa (+506-2640 0226; www.florblanca.com).
The Zohar
The people I rely on for personal grooming are the same people I’ve been working with forever: Berta Camal at Jed Root who does my make-up in a low-key way, and Joyce Cohen who cuts and styles my hair. They know me and I trust them completely, even when we experiment with new looks. Berta Camal at Jed Root, 333 Seventh Ave, New York, NY 10001 (+1212-226 6600; www.jedroot.com).
Who Will Comfort Me by Melody Gardot.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Tutto Il Giorno on Long Island, where I loved both the food and atmosphere. Everything is fresh, simple and southern Italian in style, and the burrata with tomatoes, penne with eggplant, and cartoccio – beautiful local fish baked in parchment paper with roasted-tomato vinaigrette – were all exceptional. 56 Nugent St, Southampton, New York, NY 11968 (+1631-377 3611; www.tuttoilgiorno.com).
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Francis Bacon. I have a few of his works, but I’d like more. I surprised my late husband Stephan with an enormous Bacon painting, as he was his favourite artist – and now he’s mine too.
The books on my bedside table are The Zohar – I’m a Kabbalist and this spiritual book is an endless source of comfort and inspiration – and my journal, which contains my to-do lists, my calendar and the sketches and ideas that strike at all times of the day and night.
My favourite room in my house is the spa in each of my homes. I have one in my Manhattan apartment, a yoga hut in Parrot Cay and a whole spa house in East Hampton. In each case, their design was an integral part of the overall space, because for me a spa is an essential.
The last music I downloaded was songs used in my autumn 2015 show. Our “music curator” Kevin Edwards always picks great tracks that become my playlist until the next season. Favourites include Kandace Springs’ Love Got in the Way, Lipbone Redding’s Sixteen Tons, and Melody Gardot’s Who Will Comfort Me. Each one has a soulful rhythm and beautiful lyrics.
My favourite websites are 8, a new video platform launched by my friend Sonja Nuttall that allows users to keep 80 per cent of the advertising money from the site, and Citizen Brooklyn, which focuses on this New York borough’s emerging creative community. www.citizenbrooklyn.com.www.weare8.com.
Discover the personal style files of other creatives with philanthropic clout, such as disaster-relief- housing architect Shigeru Ban and ethical jewellery designer Pippa Small.
Donna Karan talks personal taste: Part Two
The fashion designer’s compendium of passions includes the great energy of Costa Rica and Orange County’s best clothing boutique
The fashion designer’s compendium of passions includes the great energy of Costa Rica and Orange County’s best clothing boutique
The last things I bought and loved were artisanal textiles from the open-air markets surrounding the Seminyak area of Bali. I love, love, love artisan pieces – jewellery, clothing, decorative objects; when I travel, it’s these handmade pieces that stop me. You feel the spirit of the person who made them, the craft culture that has been passed from generation to generation. It connects the past, present and future.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a vacation – to Cuba and Colombia. I value travelling and experiences more than anything and love to seek out the new and undiscovered. I always say my favourite place is the one I haven’t been to and these two are next on my bucket list.
Birdman, by Stephan Weiss | Image: Colin Hofman
An object I would never part with is my late husband Stephan’s collection of artwork. I have so much of it in my home and also at my philanthropic foundation, the Urban Zen Center. There’s nothing more personal to me. My very favourite piece is called Birdman, a brass sculpture that looks like it’s taking flight. Urban Zen Center, 711 Greenwich Street, New York, NY 10014 (+1212-414 8520; www.urbanzen.org).
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Costa Rica. I went with my daughter Gabby, her husband Gianpaolo, and their children Stefania and Sebastino. It was my first time there and I loved it. Each gorgeous place was so understated but also had great energy. The country is raw and untravelled in many places and I adored the adventure of getting into an open Jeep and exploring the dirt roads with monkeys swinging from the trees above. I particularly loved Playa Hermosa in Santa Teresa, where I watched my grandchildren surf; Koji’s, a Japanese restaurant right on the beach; and Couleur Café for its fresh juices. The food was exceptional everywhere we went – Playa de los Artistas in Montezuma was another favourite – and I can’t wait to return. Couleur Café, main access road to Playa Hermosa, Santa Teresa (+506-2640 0677). Koji’s Restaurant, 400m south of Hermosa Valley School, Playa Hermosa, Santa Teresa (+506-2640 0815). Playa de los Artistas, Montezuma (+506-2642 0920).
And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is peace of mind. Time with my family does that for me. I take on many projects, professionally and philanthropically, and it’s hard for me to let go. To be in a place like Costa Rica was a true vacation. The phone reception was bad so I couldn’t be in constant contact, which turned out to be a great thing.
An indulgence I would never forgo is yoga. I practise every morning – either privately in my apartment if I’m in the city, or at Yoga Shanti in Sag Harbor when I’m in the Hamptons. It’s an indulgence because I have to squeeze it into my busy schedule, but it’s the calm in the chaos of the day that awaits me. Yoga Shanti, 32 Bridge Street, Sag Harbor, New York, NY 11963 (+1631-725 6424; www.yogashanti.com).
Obsolete antiques shop in New York
If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is LA. It is the closest lifestyle to New York and all my friends live there. A perfect day includes a walk on the beach in Malibu; a drive along the Pacific Coast Highway; and exploring the antiques shop Obsolete, where I always find pieces to buy, and A’maree’s, a favourite fashion boutique in Orange County with a brilliant edit. In the evenings I usually hang out at my friends’ homes, but I also love a good dinner out – with great people watching – at either Nobu or Chateau Marmont on Sunset Boulevard. A’maree’s, 2241 West Coast Highway, Newport Beach (+1949-642 4423; www.amarees.com). Chateau Marmont, 8221 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood(+1323-656 1010; www.chateaumarmont.com). Nobu Los Angeles, 903 North La Cienega Boulevard (+1310-657 2900; www.noburestaurants.com). Obsolete, 11270 West Washington Boulevard, Culver City (+1310-399 0024; www.obsoleteinc.com).
In my fridge you’ll always find ingredients for my green juice. I love the fresh taste and it packs in so many important daily nutrients. I have a glass every morning and take a flask or two to work to get me through the day. You’ll also find salmon for poaching, various homemade soups and eggs for my morning egg-white omelettes.
Chiltern Firehouse | Image: Nicholas Kay
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Belgravia and Mayfair in London; I really only shop when I travel. I love Egg for its eclectic mix of eastern-inspired clothing and emerging designers, and Dover Street Market for six storeys of fashion finds, art installations and new ideas. After shopping, Chiltern Firehouse is a new favourite for its vibrant atmosphere and I love Scott’s for its classic fresh seafood. At the end of the day, I adore retreating to The Halkin, which is a home away from home and holds so many memories for me. Chiltern Firehouse, 1 Chiltern Street, W1 (020-7073 7676; www.chilternfirehouse.com). Dover Street Market, 17-18 Dover Street, W1 (020-7518 0680; www.doverstreetmarket.com). Egg, 36 Kinnerton Street, SW1 (020-7235 9315; www.eggtrading.com). The Halkin by Como, 5-6 Halkin Street, SW1 (020-7333 1000; www.comohotels.com/thehalkin). Scott’s, 20 Mount Street, W1 (020-7495 7309).
The sites that inspire me are views of the ocean in the Hamptons in spring and summer, and in winter, the sunset against New York’s ever-changing skyline. I will stop my car to get out and inhale the beauty of a sunset; I particularly love the view from a spot on the West Side Highway near Stephan’s apple sculpture.
Young Living Thieves Essential Oil Supplement, £37.50 for 15ml
The beauty staples I’m never without are the essential oils that I use for everything – as scent, as a massage oil, and to set the olfactory atmosphere in both private and public spaces. I use Young Living Essential Oils, where the spicy, woody Thieves is my favourite. I also love the more calming lavender version. £37.50 for 15ml; www.youngliving.com.
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be on the back of a motorcycle, going from one artisan village to another, supporting and developing their trade and bringing it to the world. I’d publish my journal about this alternative life and call it My Motorcycle Diaries.
Stunning Opulence in Arty Aix-En-Provence at Villa Gallici
If exceedingly elegant and luxurious travel is your style, then add Villa Gallici in Aix-En-Provence to your increasingly long list. (Don't you love us for how we help you with that list?) Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly visits and finds the renovated beauty even better than expected.
If exceedingly elegant and luxurious travel is your style, then add Villa Gallici in Aix-En-Provence to your increasingly long list. (Don't you love us for how we help you with that list?) Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly visits and finds the renovated beauty even better than expected.
CHECKING IN
Overview
AIX-EN-PROVENCE, France – Just a 15-minute walk from the bustling Cours Mirabou in the heart of Aix, you'll find the 22-room, ultra-luxe, terra cotta dream that is Villa Gallici. The original 18th-century palazzo-inspired building has been lovingly restored by the Italian Baglioni Hotels group and is also part of the Relais & Châteauxconsortium, so every Mediterranean touch feels just right — from the extremely friendly and knowledgeable concierges (none of my bizarre questions about faience shopping proved too much for them) to the refined Provençal cuisine served on the restaurant's atmospheric terrace. Villa Gallici is the perfect oasis from which to explore neighboring Romanesque churches, Mont Sainte-Victoire (Cézanne's inspiration), and some of the most vibrant outdoor markets in the south of France.
Claim to Fame
One of the villa's main draws is the plane tree-shaded piscine. A huge plus in the searing summer heat, it's an ideal spot to while away a lazy afternoon. A day at the pool will leave you refreshed for Villa Gallici's stellar cuisine and the vast wine list overseen by maitre d'hotel Stephane Gilbert, who is happy to arrange tastings throughout the gardens and guide guests through the villa's extensive cellars.
What's on Site
Villa Gallici is set amid seven lush acres of jasmine- and lavender-laden gardens with secret pathways and an incredible statuary collection. So good is the cache of bronze sculptures here that you can almost count this as a cultural excursion and therefor be forgiven for just parking it on property. The villa's refreshing pool — with its brilliant red umbrellas — and the small but fantastic spa (treatments include cryosurgery and Guinot facials) are thoroughly restorative. If you're feeling the need to burn off a little of last night's seared foie gras (don't miss this indulgence), the hotel's recently added fitness facility will put you through a light workout.
The Food
People flock from near and far to sample the creative, locally sourced cuisine in the formal restaurant and the more casual fare served on the relaxed candle-lit terrace. While all of the cooking is rooted in a classic French style — local poached fish, roasted lamb, delicately fried zucchini, and ice cream flavored with anise — there is an emphasis on beautiful vegetables as well as lighter sauces and preparations.
If you have only one meal here, make it the expansive breakfast spread on the patio beside spectacular, 100-year-old cypress trees. Lavender honey, crispy croissants with local jams, and delicious cappuccinos are a fantastic way to start the day. (Throw in their perfect egg white omelette, and this could be my Death Row meal.)
In the Room
Check your modernist aesthetic at the door and embrace the sumptuous, Louis XV surroundings found in many of the 22 rooms, suites, and communal sitting spaces. Each of the recently renovated rooms features toile, chintz, and seriously luxurious linens. Well-stocked minibars mean cold Diet Cokes and salty snacks are within range, and the technology — WiFi, TVs (sacre bleu!) — is top-notch, as expected by the Villa's discerning, ever-connected clientele.
This Place Is Perfect For
Maximalists of all ages. Families, newlyweds seeking seclusion, foodies, and lovers of art history will all rejoice at this ornate hospitality extravaganza.
But Not So Perfect For
Minimalists. One must embrace the slight ostentation and revel in the gilt finishes and multiple shades of crimson at every turn.
Room with a View
Every room affords a view onto the exuberant gardens, but the Superior 8 room — with its four-poster bed and hand-painted wallpaper — is among the best. On my next visit, I hope to stay in Suite 20, a split-level space with an upstairs living room swathed in soothing, cream-colored hues with the scent of orange blossoms filling the air.
CHECKING OUT
What to Do Nearby
You won't want to ply yourself away from this cosseting premises, but you must for the historical, culinary, and retail discoveries that await.
Start with a visit to the cloisters at Aix's Cathédrale Saint-Saveur before wandering the city streets that inspired Cézanne, Camus, and Hemingway, among many other artistic and literary greats. The Saturday outdoor markets, with their piles of lavender, mushrooms, gorgeous eggplant, and locally produced chèvre and honey, are full of local flavor, as is the Musée Granet, with its outstanding collection of nine paintings by local hero Paul Cézanne. Another worthy detour is Atelier Paul Cézanne, a light-filled studio that looks as if the Impressionist artist were recently in residence.
The nearby Sextius Thermal Baths are the place to take restorative hydrotherapy treatments, followed by a meal and a digestif at La Rotonde, or at Brasserie des Deux Garcons, an institution in Aix that is the ideal spot for sipping pastis and watching the world pass by.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
How to Get Here: If you're coming by train from Paris, Aix is an easy ride on the high-speed TGV. If you're flying, Marseilles Provence Airport (MRS) is the closest airport. It's nine miles from the train station and sixteen from the airport to Villa Gallici.
BOOK IT
Rates start at €205. Click here for reservations.
Hôtel de Tourrel, Provence
A boutique bolthole housed in a 17th-century palais complete with rooftop pool and gourmet restaurant
A boutique bolthole housed in a 17th-century palais complete with rooftop pool and gourmet restaurant
When I think of the sun-soaked village of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, images of Van Gogh, fields of lavender and sweet calissons – the local nougatine treats – all spring to mind.
Design-led hotels that are as chic as anything one might find in Paris haven’t always been synonymous with these historic streets, and so I was delighted to discover the Hôtel de Tourrel housed in a 17th-century palais on a recent visit to the area.
We took refuge from the midday heat in the restaurant (first picture), where the Mediterranean-inspired menu is overseen by chef Benoit Fauci (formerly of the Michelin-starred Les Chênes Verts in Tourtour) and changes weekly in accordance with market finds. Chef Fauci works exclusively with village suppliers to create three-course meals at lunch (€48, with cheese or dessert) and dinner (€58), only offering two options for each course, each one executed deftly.
Our meal began with a charcuterie plate for sharing, followed by a soup of onions and green vegetables topped with an egg parfait. Slices of tender cabillaud(cod) with brightly coloured piperade was another standout dish. The garnishes were as beautiful as they were tasty, with delicate tempura-battered blossoms and fennel slaw adding an unexpected edge to more traditional dishes such as duck. The fruitcake with homemade glacé and wild strawberries was outstanding.
After our meal, owners Margot Stangle and Ralph Husgen – an architect and advertising executive who have lovingly restored the exquisite property – let me peek into a few of the seven suites (from €350-€690, July and August, example second picture). Light and airy, original features – such as Strecco – have been kept, but whitewashed walls, parquet floors and a midcentury aesthetic lend a hip, streamlined vibe. Atop the building sits a rooftop pool that’s temptingly plungeworthy.
Had I known about this boutique bolthole sooner, I most certainly would have booked a stay, but as it is, the Hôtel de Tourrel gives me reason to return.
For alternative places to stay in Provence, try Domaine de Baume, or for something a bit more sporty in the region, this outstanding golf clinic would be worth a visit.
Capitol
One-of-a-kind pieces and little-known lines from A-list designers make this North Carolina fashion boutique a true Southern belle
One-of-a-kind pieces and little-known lines from A-list designers make this North Carolina fashion boutique a true Southern belle
A two-storey boutique in the heart of Charlotte, North Carolina, might not be the obvious place to find the US answer to Colette or Dover Street Market. Capitol is a 6,000sq ft emporium full of fashion brands, haute joaillerie, cult accessories and even couture. “I wanted to fill a niche,” explains owner Laura Vinroot Poole (first picture). “Previously, customers had to travel to Paris or New York to find the latest couture. Now they come here.”
“I have a Southern advantage,” Vinroot Poole says of her relationships with designers ranging from Giambattista Valli – he did his first couture show outside Paris with Capitol – to Alber Elbaz and Marc Jacobs. “Being a fashion outsider has been a plus because people have trusted me from the start. Manners still count and designers like our way of doing business. They appreciate a handwritten thank-you note.” As a result, little-known lines and one-off pieces from A-list designers have been carried at Capitol since its inception in 1998.
| Image: Weston Wells
The sprawling space is anchored around a stunning courtyard that features a vertical garden by landscape designer Patrick Blanc, best known for his vegetal murals for the Cartier Foundation. The interior is equally dramatic: areas are organised by designer – chic skirts ($1,140) by Erdem Moralioglu here, playful Mary Katrantzou “Poppies” frocks ($1,170) there – and furnished with iconic modernist pieces by Jean Prouvé, Jean Royèr, Charlotte Perriand and Jacques Adnet and decorated in elegant hand-painted de Gournay wallpapers.
Loyal customers and occasional visitors such as India Hicks spend whole days perusing Roksanda Ilincic herringbone dresses ($1,565), geometric coats ($2,115) by Peter Pilotto and Christopher Kane’s boyfriend trousers ($1,170). To one side, there’s a cache of Sabbia Rosa lingerie including delicate silk slips ($1,135) with lace detailing, while another space is devoted to cool, emerging talent – a Vilshenko silk blouse ($1,046, second picture) and floral maxi-dress ($3,060), or Vivetta’s peony-pink cotton shirtdress ($415). When it comes to occasionwear, Vinroot Poole’s enduring relationships with designers such as Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte mean that custom gowns are also available on request.
Shoes are a particular strength and passion. Python Céline slip-ons ($1,400), chunky YSL platforms ($895) and Rupert Sanderson kitten heels ($595) – “perfect for garden parties” – figure prominently, as do embellished summery sandals by Marni ($580) and K Jacques ($255).
Accessories too are a major focus, from jewellery – opal-studded earrings by LA brand Irene Neuwirth ($15,280), spectacular pendants and cocktail rings (price on request) by Munnu Gem Palace with enormous emeralds and Indian sapphires – to vibrant shawls by Yaser Shaw ($1,100) and hand-embroidered Olympia Le-Tan minaudières ($2,070).
“We do things a little differently here,” says Vinroot Poole. “Whereas in New York you might find the latest Balenciaga collection in black, we offer it in hot pink. Our clients want one-of-a-kind pieces. I want them to make discoveries here and linger for a while.”
For more über-cool American fashion boutiques, see A’maree’s in California for cutting-edge brands with an A-list following or Vintage Martiniin Texas for cocktailwear with Hollywood cachet.
Double the Fun Meets Double the Flavor in Provence
If your French country vacation fantasy involves a beautiful and intimate hotel, unforgettable meals both elaborate and simple, and cultural diversions to entertain you or peace and quiet to soothe you, you might find yourself at the newly merged hotels Oustau de Baumanière and La Cabro d'Or in Les Baux-de-Provence.
If your French country vacation fantasy involves a beautiful and intimate hotel, unforgettable meals both elaborate and simple, and cultural diversions to entertain you or peace and quiet to soothe you, you might find yourself at the newly merged hotels Oustau de Baumanière and La Cabro d'Or in Les Baux-de-Provence.
LES BAUX-DE-PROVENCE, France – The last time I was in the bucolic area surrounding St. Rémy-de-Provence, it was with a one- and two-year-old in tow, so some of the mystique — and particularly the culinary magic — was lost on me. I didn't have time to savor lengthy meals — from simple, wood-fired pizzas on St. Rémy's town square, to sumptuous, multi-course meals at Oustau de Baumanière, the renowned temple of haute cuisine in nearby Les Baux-de-Provence. I managed to eat well, of course, but the entire visit was something of a blur.
On my recent visit, however, I got to see the surrounding Roman ruins, shop markets bursting with fresh lavender and local honey, and languish in the postcard-perfect pool.
CHECKING IN
Overview
The newly merged Baumanière and sister property La Cabro d'Or together comprise 56 guest rooms that give this property an intimate, authentic bastide-esque feel. The hotel has been owned by the same family for generations and everything operates like a small country inn, albeit one with seriously luxe, Relais & Chateaux touches. Spacious, simple rooms in neutral palettes capitalize on the Provençal light, and all feature views of the surrounding lush gardens and rocky Baux Valley.
What's New
The two boutique hotels merged in March 2015, but none of the special flavor of each has been lost. Instead, there are three discreet pools to choose from as well as a lower-key food offering (that is no less delicious) at La Cabro d'Or.
What's On Site
Wi-Fi is beside the point, as you'll really want to disconnect here. But for the hardcore, connectivity is easy. The spa is a real draw, and sybarites flock here for beauty and wellness treatments like gentle scrubs with Valmont products and restorative massages. Time did not allow for a visit to the sumptuous spa, but I've added this to my list for a subsequent visit. The hammam looked beyond wonderful. Sport is limited to lawn games like petanque, with maybe a game of tennis thrown in to burn off last night's €210 tasting menu. The property is strewn with beautiful bougainvillea, jasmine, and plane trees that are so much a part of southern France that you'll find it difficult to leave to explore the area's rich history.
The Food
Food is certainly the central focus at both properties. People pilgrimage to Oustau de Baumanière for chef Jean-Andre Charial's elaborate offerings that have lightened in recent years to reflect people's desire for delicious yet healthful cuisine. Exquisitely simple fruits and vegetables — locally sourced asparagus, artichokes, wild strawberries — as well as red mullet, succulent duck, and risottos are all prepared in inventive ways.
At La Cabro d'Or, chef Michel Hulin prepares gorgeous steamed sea bass with tajine-like vegetables, rack of lamb, and a cheese course that will not soon be forgotten — all in the most magical, plein air patio setting.
The wines are central at both restaurants, with Oustau's cellar containing more than 60,000 bottles of some of the world's finest vintages including great Bordeaux like Pétrus, d'Yquem, Haut-Brion, and Lafite. Rare Champagnes include Krug's Clos du Mesnil and d'Ambonnay, as well Dom Perignon Oenothèque. But for me, a glass of simple, locally produced rose sipped on the terrace at sunset is by far the way to go.
In the Room
The 56 rooms here range from cozy classics suitable for two to expansive suites and prestige rooms that can accommodate three or more. The décor is Provençal chic: white-washed walls, terracotta and natural wood finishes, and luxurious linens. Each space has been updated with sleek TVs and air conditioning — a must as the temperatures soar in July and August.
This Place Is Perfect For
Foodie couples who might want a bit of culture, but really want a relaxing, restorative experience. Ideal as a three-day weekend from the U.K. or elsewhere in Europe as it is easily accessible by Marseille, just minutes away.
But Not So Perfect For
Families with small children. The management can certainly attend to little people — special meals are always an option and excellent babysitters are in plentiful supply — but the point is to savor the silence, the sun, and, most importantly, the excellent food. Meals can last hours, and this doesn't typically jive with the under-five set.
Room with a View
I've stayed at both Oustau and La Cabro d'Or, and while it is impossible to go wrong at either property, Oustau has a certain magic that I will return for time and again. I stayed in a deluxe room with a terrace which was absolutely lovely — especially with the early morning floral scents wafting in — but I'd really love to load it up in an expansive suite with a separate living room for that home stay feel.
CHECKING OUT
The Surroundings
One could simply park it in Les Baux-de-Provence, a sweet village set atop a barren plateau in the Alpilles — and just take in the expansive views of the Camargue and Arles in the distance. Resist the temptation to sit poolside and get up to go explore the medieval castle and spare St. Catherine's 12th century church in town. Sixteenth-century mansions-turned-museums like Yves Brayer and the Louis Jou Fondation are worth a visit for their art collections and architecture.
What to Do Nearby
In the immediate area, you'll want to hit the medieval fortress, the Val d'Enfer, and Carrières de Lumière (Quarries of Light). Must-sees in St. Rémy-de-Provence include the archeological site Glanum and the cloisters of Saint-Paul de Mausole. Château of Barbegal in nearby Fontveille is also worth a detour, as are the arenas and amphitheatres of Arles. The Fondation Vincent Van Gogh is another Arles highlight, while lovers of contemporary art and design should make a beeline for the Frank Gehry and Annabelle Selldorf-designed LUMA Foundation, for photography, painting, film, and more.
It's virtually impossible to get a bad meal in this part of the world, and even the simplest pain bagnat and Nicoise pizza are consistent crowd pleasers. Au Bistrot Marin (68 Avenue de la Vallée des Baux) and La Place in the quaint village of Maussane-les-Aplilles are worth a detour for a decadent lunch. Le Bistrot du Paradou is a must for authentic country fare in a relaxed setting. This simple country house is quintessential Provence (at least to this American), complete with a warm wood and tile interior and dishes such as roast chicken with crispy, salty skin, and pommes Dauphinoise.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
How to Get There
Marseille Provence Airport (MRS), at an hour's drive, is the nearest airport. Directs flights from the United States are available into Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE), approximately a two-hour drive away.
Getting Around
A car is a must for exploring the area. Note that roads are winding and have been known to induce car sickness in the faint of stomach.
BOOK IT
Rates start at €200. Click here for reservations.
Frederick Wimsett
Murals and screens created by your very own artist in residence
Murals and screens created by your very own artist in residence
“I love bringing a sense of theatre into homes and work spaces,” says American-born, Somerset and London-based Frederick Wimsett of the elaborate painted walls (from £6,000) and chinoiserie screens (from £4,500, fourth picture) he creates for discerning clients, including Kate Moss, Alice Temperley and Christie’s auction house (third picture). “Designs are often inspired by the location, architecture and surrounding flora and fauna, as well as a client’s preferred colour palette.”
For a commission, clients discuss with Wimsett how the room will be used, what the light will be like at a particular time of day and how much detail versus negative space they would like to see. “I often bring in elements from nature that reawaken a room and transform a living space,” he says.
For murals, the self-taught artist hand-paints directly on a client’s walls – like a very personalised artist-in-residence. Each of his creations – from twisting vines that envelop a room, to elaborate pheasants and peacocks in flight (first and second pictures) – uses acrylic paints, gilding, wax, metal and gold leaf. It takes approximately 10-15 days to complete a single wall, while entire rooms can take up to six weeks. Asian-inspired screens, doors and exquisitely detailed wall panels are all created at the artist’s studio in Somerset.
Home is where the art is? Very much so.
4 Bay Area Paper Makers Championing the Art of Correspondence
The texture of handmade paper, the loops and bowls of a friend’s distinctive handwriting, the appreciation of the time and care taken in sending: These are just a few of the great pleasures of receiving a physical note. However, as the letter—and even the blithe summer postcard—has long been superseded by the Facebook post, it has become even more meaningful to receive a thoughtful, handwritten missive or invitation. Fortunately, a coterie of Bay Area artisans is carrying on the civilized tradition of the fine stationer. Embellishing sumptuous stock with letterpress, engraved imagery and hand gilding, San Francisco papermakers bring together age-old processes with innovative techniques. Following are four Bay Area ateliers championing the art of correspondence.
Julie Holcomb
A Bay Area icon—she has been a fine printer for more than 30 years—Julie Holcomb is a specialist in custom letterpressing and hand-drawn calligraphy. Emeryville-based, Holcomb brings a minimalist aesthetic to the bespoke invitations, stationery and calling cards she creates for clients like Chez Panisse and Pentagram. Using mould-made, 100-percent cotton paper that is crafted for her in a single, thick layer—versus the multiple, laminated sheets used in inexpensive stationery—Holcomb creates warm, elegant printed matter that is weighty and subtly textured. Hand-applied edging in rich metallic and enamel foils is a studio signature. By appointment only, 3601 63rd St., Emeryville, 510-654-6416,
Dependable Letterpress
A disciple of Julie Holcomb, founder Joel Benson operates a Heidelberg Press out of his five-person Portrero Hill studio. Benson produces exquisitely simple blind deboss business cards, die-cut save-the-dates and holiday greetings—many with hand-painted edges and perforations—all with a tasteful, graphic sensibility. Uncoated tree fiber papers also lend Dependable Letterpress’ personal stationery a tactile quality. 610 22nd St., Suite 247, 415-503-0981.
Rhiannon Alpers
Artisan/owner Rhiannon Alpers is a true papermaker, letterpress printmaker and bookbinder with a strong focus on crafting paper stock using cotton, linen and plant fibers. Her custom papers feature poetic elements ranging from tulip stems—which lend a textural feel—to vibrant bird of paradise petals that yield rich, maroon hues. Alpers shares her craft via studio workshops including “Papermaking: Exotic Fibers” (July 11) and “Sculptural Papermaking” (July 30 and August 29). 1890 Bryant St., Suite 308.
Twig & Fig
Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto is home to this retail paperie and print studio that specializes in fine wrapping papers and intricate, laser-cut invitations inlaid with wood, plastic and metal filigree. In addition to custom, couture creations, Twig & Fig stocks papers sourced from around the globe (Gmund from Germany, Arches watercolor paper from France, and air-dried Lama Li varieties from Nepal, to name a few), as well as wax seals and elegant Manuscript fountain pens. The design loft offers a serene space to peruse papers and sip fine teas. 2110 Vine St., Berkeley, 510-848-5599.
A version of this article appeared in the June/July 2015 issue of San Francisco Cottages & Gardens with the headline: The Art of Correspondence.
Hedley & Bennett handmade aprons
A culinary e-shop that attracts the world’s best chefs
A culinary e-shop that attracts the world’s best chefs
From butchers, bakers and bartenders to gourmets and gluttons, many a foodie has roundly rejoiced upon discovering Hedley & Bennett’s e-store specialising in colourful, high-quality kitchen aprons, chef coats and caps made from American canvas, European linens and Japanese selvedge denim.
The brainchild of former line cook Ellen Bennett, the collection has garnered a high-profile following among chefs including Nobu Matsuhisa, Momofuku’s David Chang and April Bloomfield of The Spotted Pig, as well as Jon Shook, Vinny Dotolo and Ludo Lefebvre of LA’s Trois Mec. But kings of domestic kitchens are catching on fast – becoming fans not only of details such as adjustable straps, lined pockets and graphic prints, but also of the monogramming customisation service too.
The site features over 40 styles: full aprons (from $85, second picture) made of graphite canvas and linen come in colours from rhubarb red with orange ties (first picture) and canary yellow with white ties to navy with pink and parsnip with navy. Shorter-style bistro aprons in reds, whites, blues and beige come in several lengths – from the 27” Commis ($70) to the 14” Tik Tak Mini ($67) – and all have practical bucket pockets. Tailored chef coats (from $120) in lightweight cotton or indigo chambray suit the at-home amateur who loves a theatrical approach. Every detail points to the fact that these garments are designed by a chef who understands the hot, messy workings of a kitchen.
For another e-cache of chic culinary gems, try Quitokeeto, or to craft the apotheosis of kitchen heaven, approach Smallbone of Devizes for a bespoke design kitchen.
Stefano Gabbana talks personal taste: Part One
Dolce & Gabbana creative director Stefano Gabbana fuses classic tailoring with Italian va va voom
My personal style signifiers are a white, tailored dress shirt and a black waistcoat. I can’t quite remember when I started wearing this combination or why, but it makes me feel comfortable and smart. I like my shirts to be perfectly pressed and I’m happy to wear a waistcoat for both day and evening. Once upon a time my answer might have been a ruby earring, or two watches worn on the same wrist, but I realise that my style is changing with age.
The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a red mikado-silk jacket. I designed it for our summer show and found it to be full of energy, strength and colour. I recently wore it to a party in Milan and then again on a trip to Shanghai. Mikado has a wonderful consistency because it’s a stiff silk with a texture I love. It’s the first time I’ve worn a jacket like that and it felt very festive.
Gabbana’s mikado silk jacket | Image: Fabio Massimo Aceto
The site that inspires me is Sicily, which is so very special. From its baroque churches to the Norman and Arabic influences, it is like no other part of the world. It’s an island with mountains where you can ski, there’s a dramatic volcano in the form of Mount Etna, and it’s home to some of the world’s most beautiful cities, including Palermo, Catania and Modica. And then there is swimming in the sea off our boat, with the Aeolian Islands and the beaches of Cefalù in the distance. I could talk about it for hours.
The last music I downloaded was Right Here, Right Now by Giorgio Moroder and Kylie Minogue, which has a great beat. Kylie’s our little princess; she’s a real friend and I love her – and her music – very much.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the Maldives. The atolls are so beautiful and pristine that it makes you feel lucky just to be there. I try to go when it’s winter in Milan, just for a bit of sun and rest. I can’t say which atoll is my favourite but I particularly like staying at the One & Only Reethi Rah; the water villas set over the crystal-clear lagoon are a dream. reethirah.oneandonlyresorts.com.
A recent “find” is the China Club in Hong Kong, a retro-chic members’ club that captures the traditional atmosphere of China in the 1930s and 40s – a period of time I adore. It feels a bit like being in Shanghai, with elements of Hong Kong and even Europe thrown in because of all the art and antiquities. I also love the teahouse vibe and authentic cuisine. 12/F, The Old Bank of China Building, Bank Street, Central, Hong Kong (+852-2521 8888; www.chinaclub.com.sg).
The village of Portofino on Italy’s Ligurian coast | Image: Shutterstock/Haveseen
An object I would never part with is a simple gold band with a ruby, my favourite stone. I had it made 20 years ago by a jeweller in northern Italy and it’s like a form of protection. It reminds me of my parents, and I only take it off to sleep or swim.
In my fridge you’ll always find fresh fish, particularly swordfish and sea bass, that I get at Pescheria Spadari, just a minute from Duomo Square in Milan. There are also eggs, vegetables and more vegetables – whichever are in season. I try to follow a balanced Mediterranean diet but there will always be a jar of Nutella too – though not in the fridge or it goes hard. 4 Via Spadari, 20123 Milan (+3902-878 250; www.pescheriaspadari.it).
The village of Portofino on Italy’s Ligurian coast | Image: Shutterstock/Haveseen
The thing I’ve got my eye on is a late summer holiday to the seaside. I spend my life flying all over the world so I like a relaxing beach vacation. I haven’t picked a place yet, but Portofino or sailing in the Mediterranean are always good choices.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a love letter. I’ve given so many material gifts but for me, a letter is the most beautiful because it comes from the heart. I’m not telling you what was in it.
Right Here, Right Now by Giorgio Moroder and Kylie Minogue
And the best one I’ve received was the reply to my love letter. I wasn’t expecting it, which made it all the more special. Reading the words of a person who loves you is, I think, a singular and wonderful experience.
My favourite websites are Corriere della Sera for keeping up to date on news and fashion reviews; the Daily Telegraph for its spot-on fashion blogs; and Vogue UK, where I have fun reading columns by Suzy Menkes. Her observations are always spiced with a bit of irony. www.corriere.it. www.telegraph.co.uk. www.vogue.co.uk.
Stefano Gabbana talks personal taste: Part Two
The Dolce & Gabbana creative director concludes his list of likes with Milanese cuisine, shopping for kitsch souvenirs and his acting ambitions
The Dolce & Gabbana creative director concludes his list of likes with Milanese cuisine, shopping for kitsch souvenirs and his acting ambitions
My style icons are great divas and actors – Sophia Loren, Anna Magnani, Monica Vitti, Claudia Cardinale – who embody the la dolce vita spirit. Then there are the fashionable men – of them all, Marcello Mastroianni was the most elegant.
The last meal that truly impressed me was tortellini en brodo, a typical northern Italian kind of pasta cooked by my mother that, for me, means family. I also love simple Milanese food – saffron rice, vitello milanese, vegetable purée – and last year we opened the Martini Bistrot on Corso Venezia in Milan, which is focused on this kind of cuisine. The beef tartare with capers and sun-dried tomatoes is outstanding. Corso Venezia 15, 20122 Milan (+3902-7601 1154; www.dolcegabbana.com/martini).
The Greek theatre in Taormina, Sicily | Image: Getty Images
If I didn’t live in Milan, the city I would live in is London, because when I’m there I feel at home. The people have a distinct energy and express it every day in the way they dress – their combination of eccentricity and tailoring fires my curiosity. When I’m in town I like walking around the shops and parks in Primrose Hill, and meeting friends for a drink at Claridge’s or a lively dinner at Hakkasan. If I didn’t need to work, I’d move to Taormina, a place that really takes your breath away even after scores of visits; there’s always some surprising niche to discover. I love having drinks overlooking the sea on the terrace of San Domenico Palace Hotel and dinner at the classic Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo, followed by a summery granita with whipped cream from Bam Bar just down the street. Bam Bar, 45 Via di Giovanni, 98039 Taormina (+3909-422 4355). Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo, 59 Via Teatro Greco, 98039 Taormina (+3909-422 3801; www.belmond.com). Claridge’s, 49 Brook Street, London W1 (020-7629 8860; www.claridges.co.uk). Hakkasan, 17 Bruton Street, London W1 (020-7907 1888; www.hakkasan.com). San Domenico Palace Hotel, 5 Piazza San Domenico, 98039 Taormina (+3909-4261 3111; www.san-domenico-palace.com).
The last things I bought and loved were my two Bengal cats – Zambia, the she-cat, and Congo, the tom. I fell in love with them at first sight. I take them to the office with me and they make wonderful playmates. They have to be careful though, as I’ve also got three Labradors – Rosa, Totò and Mimmo – and they can be quite rough.
The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing include my barber, Pietro. He’s Sicilian and works at our barbershop in Milan. I go every week because I like having my hair in order, and always very short. He cuts it with scissors – the way it should be done. I also have a personal trainer who comes to my house every morning at 7am and we work out together in my home gym.
An indulgence I would never forgo is spending time on my iPad: I like to FaceTime with my mother on a regular basis; I enjoy uploading photos on Instagram, and I play Monopoly to relax.
Marcello Mastroianni | Image: Getty Images
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is difficult to pick because I buy so many. I can’t imagine a trip without a pause at some local market or souvenir shop. On a recent trip to China I bought little figurines of the three thinkers – Confucius, Buddha and Lao Tzu – and I have a golden gondola from Venice on the desk in my office that reminds me of a special time in that city. I also collect Christmas decorations and buy new ones wherever I go, as long as they’re absolutely kitsch. Some of my favourites were from the Christmas market in Nuremberg where I bought pretty little gingerbread hearts. Hauptmarkt 18, 90403 Nuremberg (+49911-23360; www.christkindlesmarkt.de).
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Caravaggio. He was one of the greatest baroque painters and used light in a beautiful, dramatic way. I’ve always wanted to own one of his works and, while I know it’s not easy, there’s no harm in dreaming.
Electric Diner, Portobello Road
The beauty staples I’m never without include our Velvet Patchouli fragrance, which has a very strong scent of incense, like the wood in an old house. I wear it every day without fail. I also use shampoo and soap from my local pharmacy and a gentle face cleanser for sensitive skin. Velvet Patchouli,£155 for 50ml EDP; www.harrods.com.
My favourite room in my house is my kitchen. My collection of colourful, hand-painted ceramic plates from Caltagirone in Sicily is displayed throughout the room, and I like to spend time here cooking dishes from the north that remind me of my family, as well as southern Italian dishes that Domenico helps to prepare.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose London and the areas around Notting Hill and Portobello Road. I could spend entire mornings just wandering from stall to stall on market days. I also like Rellik for vintage finds, and I follow my shopping with a great lunch and a film at the Electric Cinema and Diner. Electric Cinema and Diner, 191 Portobello Road, London W11 (020-7908 9696; www.electriccinema.co.uk; www.electricdiner.com). Rellik, 8 Golborne Gardens, London W10 (020-8962 0089; www.relliklondon.co.uk).
The books on my bedside table have been replaced by magazines, like the British and US editions of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. I also usually have a pad and pen handy to sketch or jot down ideas. There are feelings and memories that I can only express this way.
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an actor. I’ve done a few cameos in films with Domenico and I feel very comfortable in front of the camera. The last part I played was in Woody Allen’s To Rome with Love and I had a great time. You have to study and memorise a lot, but I think it’s such fun. I would also like to be a director – with a big megaphone like at Cinecittà – so I could bring order to a set. I often play this role when we are shooting our ad campaigns.
Discover the personal style files of jewellery and accessories designer Lara Bohinc, or Chloé creative director Clare Waight Keller.
Ride of a lifetime
Bespoke surfboards from a London-based company with global connections and a cult following
Bespoke surfboards from a London-based company with global connections and a cult following
The (somewhat curiously) London-based bespoke surfboard company Swami’s is the brainchild of surfing enthusiast Giles Dunn and his wife, Ilka, who named the company after a picturesque Californian surf break. Their passion for surfing and love of art and design has led – over 10 years of independently run operations – to a cult following and collaborations with tastemakers such as Paul Smith (limited-edition board of 50 from £1,200) and Orlebar Brown. Alongside these high-profile partnerships, Swami’s also maintains a commitment to European artisans and working with environmentally sustainable materials.
The process of commissioning a surfboard involves working closely with Dunn on the selection of shape, size, length and design scheme. Much like a custom suit, clients supply information regarding height and weight, as well as level of experience and preferred surfing conditions, so that each of the handmade-to-order boards can be specifically tailored to their needs. Dunn then works closely with his global network of eight shapers, who stretch from Cornwall to South Carolina to the beaches of Australia and are masters at honing boards from both foam and wood.
After a particular model has been sculpted, chic graphic elements – from the shaper’s signature to the rider’s initials – come into play. Specially commissioned images can be incorporated into the company’s signature pared-down designs, which are drawn on rice paper and then laminated onto the decks, where they are sealed by layers of fibreglass, tinted with custom resin and polished to a high gloss.
From designs such as the limited edition of 20 Phantom Feather boards (second picture, £3,600), which are produced in conjunction with online shop 20ltd and have a striking feather motif, to The Monk (£685-£950), an iconic 1950s-inspired model, each is a high-performance board with its own character. Handmade in the UK, the Monk models feature double-wrapped patched decks, tail blocks and split gloss finishes, which are designed for harder turns and bigger barrels. Other special editions include the Turban Wrap (from £1,200) – a board inspired by Indonesian travels that beautifully incorporates silk fabrics into the surface layers.
And just in time for summer’s swells is the launch of Swami’s bespoke wetsuit service. Made in the UK from the finest Japanese Yamamoto neoprene, the wetsuits (from £295) are an even slicker way to enjoy the perfect ride.
Tory Burch’s The Hamptons
The American fashion designer launched her eponymous label, known for chicly polished staples, in 2004 and last year was one of Forbes’ Most Powerful Women
The American fashion designer launched her eponymous label, known for chicly polished staples, in 2004 and last year was one of Forbes’ Most Powerful Women
My weekends centre around family, sport and being outdoors. The day starts with tennis at home – our same group of 10 women has been playing competitive round-robins for years, and this is both a Saturday and Sunday ritual. Then, after breakfast, I’ll head to the local markets to buy supplies for the evening. I tend to have lots of house guests at weekends and might have between 12 and 20 people over for a dinner party in our pool pavilion.
My first stop is always The Green Thumb [pictured] for organic blueberries, eggplant and tomatoes. Next I’ll head to Schmidt’s for steaks and fresh fish, or to Clamman for buckets of shellfish. My teenage sons and I also like to go clamming and crabbing, so we’ll often get our own catch as well. For dessert I like to serve classic chocolate-chip cookies and fruit pies from Tate’s Bake Shop.
After lunch made in our pizza oven by the poolhouse, I’ll go shopping. I’m always looking for things to inspire me creatively and I love Mecox for beautiful objets for the home and garden, Melet Mercantile in Montauk for incredible vintage clothing and furniture, and Tiina the Store in Amagansett for great Scandinavian glassware and clothing. No afternoon is complete without an ice cream from the retro Candy Kitchen.
The rest of the afternoon is usually spent in my cutting garden where I grow snapdragons and dahlias. I find flower-arranging therapeutic, and especially love creating bouquets of sweet peas, cherry branches and hydrangeas. I also usually have flowers sent out by Jitney from Dutch Flower Line in the city, so that our house is full of blooms when we arrive on a Friday evening.
On the Saturday nights I’m not entertaining I’ll go to Italian restaurant Sant Ambroeus for a late plate of pasta, or to Nick & Toni’s, a bustling East Hampton institution with a series of small, intimate rooms that are great for cosy dinners and conversation. If I’m feeling ambitious I might go and hear some live music at The Stephen Talkhouse, but mostly I just enjoy grilling lobsters in the backyard in the company of my three sons, family and friends. Our group will often linger until midnight, listening to music – some Van Morrison, Neil Young and rap for the kids – and talking.
Sunday mornings start with tennis again, followed by – if my children are in charge – either a basketball game on the court at home or tuna fishing off the tip of Long Island. Afterwards I’ll have a refreshing coconut water from Juice Press or a light lunch at Tutto Il Giorno, which has a beautiful garden.
On rainy afternoons I might pop into the Pollock-Krasner House, which puts on exhibitions throughout the summer, or to the Herzog & de Meuron-designed Parrish Art Museum, where I love the pieces by Louise Nevelson and Roy Lichtenstein. Or we might go to Guild Hall in nearby East Hampton, which shows great plays and cabaret, as well as live screenings from the Met and of the latest National Theatre hit.
When the sun is shining, my afternoons are typically spent by the pool followed by an early takeaway supper from La Parmigiana, one of our family’s favourite spots for authentic veal parmigiana and prosciutto with fresh mozzarella. If we go out, it will be to The Old Stove Pub, an old Sagaponack classic famous for its Greek food and enormous steaks. By 8pm I feel refreshed, calm and ready for the two-hour drive back to the city – and for what will likely be a busy week ahead.
For more Hamptons hotspots, take a look at the personal style file of Bulgari’s creative director Lucia Silvestri or for more beachside adventures in the US, try Melissa Odabash’s perfect weekend in Palm Beach.
New Mexico’s Inn of the Five Graces
Five-star kitsch marries secluded calm in this haute hippie bolthole
Five-star kitsch marries secluded calm in this haute hippie bolthole
In summer, there are few places I love escaping to more than the High Desert Southwest area surrounding Santa Fe and Taos, New Mexico. I have visited this haute hippie part of the US several times over the past 25 years, and my most recent visit took me to The Inn of the Five Graces (about $425-$2,500 per night, first picture), a 24-room boutique bolthole.
The name “Five Graces” refers to the idea that the five senses are all vitally important to one’s enjoyment of life, and, from the scent of piñon trees to the authentic adobe buildings decorated with vibrant textiles, exotic antiques and colourful tile work, a stay here is an exercise in glorious sensory overload.
The Inn’s owner-curators, Ira and Sylvia Seret, source furnishings, decorative objects and linens from central and south Asia, and many of the suites – with names such as Luminaria, Firebird, Lapis, Jasmine and Persimmon – feature a mix of Afghan dhurries, Tibetan artefacts and Turkish kilims, as well as intricately embroidered Indian fabrics (second picture). My bathroom was vast and adorned with elaborate mosaics designed by Seret herself. In the main room, a traditional kiva fireplace (third picture) was perfect for one chilly summer evening.
During the day, being outside is everything, and the Inn’s secluded patios and shaded gardens were my favourite place to relax – from enjoying a breakfast of huevos rancheros (eggs, black beans, avocado and chilies on a tortilla) to tucking into a pitcher of margaritas and homemade tortilla chips and guacamole at the end of the day.
At Five Graces, the old west meets the far east with brightly coloured panache. The riot of colour and texture is not for everyone, but lovers of exuberant style will find this hotel the perfect spot from which to explore the surrounding pueblos and galleries.
For culinary inspiration in New Mexico, try this hippy mountain hideaway or book into this izakaya-style restaurant in a Japanese-style farmouse.