Paris’s chic apothecary Buly 1803

A magical emporium inspired by 19th-century French hospital pharmacies

One of the most wonderful new additions to Paris’s Saint-Germain-des-Prés is Buly 1803, a boutique specialising in scented oils, lotions, soaps, candles and creams. Although open for less than a year, this chic apothecary on Rue Bonaparte was inspired by traditional 19th-century French hospital pharmacies.

Image: Alexandre Guirkinger

Buly 1803 is a true labour of love for husband and wife owners Ramdane Touhami and Victoire de Taillac, and no detail has been overlooked, from exquisite oak shelves, marble counter surfaces and Sicilian floor tiles to the stylish, calligraphic labels and elegant back-lighting that renders glass vessels glowing. The duo had an impressive journey to launching the boutique: Touhami was the co-owner and artistic director of luxe candlemakers Cire Trudon, while de Taillac was communications director for Colette. Together, they have revived a venerable French brand – originally opened in 1803 under the name Bully (one “l” has been dropped to contemporise the name) – and have reimagined its formulations for a new age.

Image: Alexandre Guirkinger

Image: Alexandre Guirkinger

Inspired by the firm’s original vinegar perfume-making catalogues, the new concoctions now include natural ingredients – all free from parabens, phenoxyethanol and silicones. This jewel box of a shop invites experimentation and the eight water-based perfumes (€110 each, example in second picture) seemed an excellent place for me to start. Tuberose, bergamot, Scottish lichen and macassar scents were my favourites, each subtle and light. I also liked the Pommade Virginale (€35) face moisturiser, whose sweet almond-oil and linden-water mix I bought in a handy travel tube (it has proven particularly useful for long-haul flights). A similar version for the body – Pommade Concrete (€28, third picture) – enticed me with its tarot-card-inspired label, and is now my cold-weather staple for dry, chapped hands.

Image: Alexandre Guirkinger

I also stocked up on Buly’s vast selection of vegetable oils: from apricot kernel oil (from €4 for 10ml) to one pressed from baobab seeds (from €6 for 10ml). My favourite finds, however, were the scented “glass bell” candles (€120 each) made of rice, soy and copra, with names like “Genereaux D’Empire”(fourth picture) and “Retour D’Egypte”. The ultimate souvenir, however, might just have been the Opiate Dentaire (€18, sixth picture) – a brightening toothpaste with hints of rose.

It was near closing time when I discovered drawers full of natural-honeycomb sponges, horsehair gloves, boar-bristle brushes and Japanese-boxwood combs. They are top of my shopping list for next time...

Santas Negras

Rare vintage lamps, llama-wool throws and chandelier earrings make this boutique a style beacon on Uruguay’s south coast

The fishing village of José Ignacio on Uruguay’s southern coast has long been a summer escape for stylish South Americans, but it has attracted an international crowd of late – including Ralph Lauren, gallerist Martin Summers and Norwegian entrepreneur Alex Vik. And nowhere is its mix of sun, surf and beach chic more apparent than at Santas Negras, a lifestyle boutique on the outskirts of town.

Opened in 2012 by artist-interior designers Patricia Torres and Paula Martini (first picture), Santas Negras is a showcase for an energetically eclectic variety of clothing, restored (and sometimes reimagined) mid-century furniture and stylish curios. It is on two levels, with the light-filled top floor curved to “flow organically and promote a circular way of navigating the shop”, says Torres. “We needed a large space to display sets of tables and chairs and enormous light fixtures – and we didn’t want it to feel like a crowded medina,” says Martini.

Hand-woven alpaca- and llama-wool throws ($160-$450) in vibrant fuchsia, orange and azure-blue (dyed by Martini) add colourful punctuation. Meanwhile, raffia‑framed antique fabrics (from $300), locally made sarongs, beach bags and hats (from $25, second picture), quirky collections of antique glass (from $120) and handcrafted pod-like wicker swings ($350) nurture an artisanal ambience.

Italian glass lamp, $1,500 | Image: Eugenio Mazzinghi

Over 75 per cent of Santas Negras’s offerings are of Uruguayan origin. “I feel uneasy importing things and ignoring what can be made locally,” says Martini. Only La Huella cookbooks ($54) and Vietnamese rugs ($1,200) are brought in from afar – they’re perfect design accents for this sandy setting.

The store’s cherry-picked jewellery and fashion draw creative types. Particularly alluring are the own‑brand delicate hand-knitted sweaters in featherweight wool (from $150) and buttery leather jackets ($550‑$800). A collection of playful “bijouterie not joaillerie” includes bold, beaded necklaces by Argentine artist Victoria Magrane ($70-$150) and chandelier earrings (from $50) – great for the day-to-night chic needed for asados (barbecues) in the high season.

But it’s the rare vintage “miracle finds” that intrigue most – from a striking pair of yellow, mirrored glass lamps ($2,000) discovered in a barn, to tables and chairs by Marcel Breuer, Charles and Ray Eames and Poul Kjærholm (from $800).

The duo’s bespoke offerings – such as upholstered beds and cabinetry made of indigenous pine and eucalyptus (from $400) – attract an ever-wider clientele. “Our customer is a world traveller searching for unique pieces,” explains Martini. “I hope we show them that beautiful things can be made using very few resources.”

BBQ chic in José Ignacio

Beachside dining with sumptuous seafood and sundowners in Uruguay

For citizens of the world planning to swing by Uruguay, I’d urge a detour to the quaint seaside town of José Ignacio, and in particular to stop at the newly opened La Susana restaurant. The owners of nearby boutique boltholes Estancia Vik and Playa Vik have added this casual beachfront spot to their surf-chic mix, and the menu, ambience and attentive staff – including gregarious chef Marcello – are already firing on all cylinders.

La Susana is open from noon (presumably for the odd American like me who shows up early), but this thatched eatery doesn’t get hopping until about 3pm – a civilised lunch hour for this part of the world. The wooden walkway approach to the restaurant – complete with boxes of kitchen herbs grown along the side – ends in a cheerful, light-filled space full of natural wood, white adobe and upbeat animé paintings lining the walls (the owners are avid contemporary art collectors – don’t miss the James Turrell light installation at Playa Vik just steps down the beach).

But it is the outdoors – complete with grill and a shaded bamboo-bar area – that is the place to be on sunny afternoons and starry nights. The clientele is eclectic and on the day of our visit the place was packed with locals, European tourists and families. It is an ideal place for children, who can frolic in the sand while parents sip inventive cocktails (largely made with the owner’s Norwegian Christiania vodka), including the Red Hot Caipi (US$10) – vodka, berries, vermouth rosso, Tabasco and lime – and the Sushi Mary ($12) with its delicious mix of tomato juice, wasabi, soy and Worcestershire sauces. The latter sounded a bit odd, but it was salty and satisfying and worked well with the abundance of grilled fare we ordered.

I’m a fan of simple food prepared in interesting, regional ways and La Susana provides just that kind of experience. We started with a plate of Crudités Club 55 ($21.50) – a bountiful platter of locally grown radishes, cucumbers, peppers and courgettes with garlicky sauces for dipping – and the brótola (a local white fish) ceviche of the day ($14.50). Given the restaurant’s location just steps from the ocean, seafood is the way to go here and freshly grilled silverside fish ($17) did not disappoint.  

Straightforward burgers – of the beef ($14) and veggie ($14.50) varieties – were also being turned out by the boatload, all accompanied by sides of rosemary-dusted French fries ($6) and a Uruguayan favourite – crushed ruby beets ($7.50). Of special note were the “side” salads that could have been mistaken for robust meals. The signature La Susana version, for example, is comprised of quinoa, figs, almonds, corn, cabbage and yoghurt, and while it didn’t initially call my name, I ended up loving its combination of textures and flavours.

Desserts included a chocolate-ice-cream bomb ($10) and plenty of the ultra-sweet dulce de leche– in gelados ($10.50) and mousses ($10) – a South American staple at breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Meals can spin out for hours – what’s better than indulging by the beach? – and many diners linger long into the waning sunset. Who can blame them, for at just a year old, La Susana is seriously hitting its stride.

Puiforcat: 100 Years of Silversmithery

Classics and new collaborations from France’s venerable marque

Venerable French silversmithing workshop Puiforcat is to be the subject of a glorious centenary retrospective in New York, as Atelier Courbet – in conjunction with Hermès – presents Puiforcat: 100 Years of Silversmithery, on view from Wednesday November 12 to Monday January 5. The first selling show of its kind, the exhibition highlights an array of the marque’s iconic art-deco classics, as well as newer signature collections created with leading contemporary artists.

Classic pieces such as the Cambo teapot ($43,000, first picture) from 1928 and Sphere tea and coffee set ($131,000) from that same year are two excellent examples of Jean Puiforcat’s skill at combining sterling silver with precious woods, glass and stone. An orange juice pitcher ($71,000, second picture) from 1930 was inspired by the bow of a ship and features an invisible “lost hinge” system that maintains the sleek lines of the piece. A filleted sterling-silver cocktail shaker ($27,000, third picture) – complete with single shot glasses with either smooth or threaded surfaces – and a desk lamp ($42,000) from 1925 in silver and onyx are pure art-deco brilliance. Fashioned by hand and polished to a mirrored shine, each of the 2kg lamps now incorporates state-of-the art LED technology, with an onyx light diffuser and a discreet dimmer switch.

On the home accessories front, the Constellation clock ($46,400) from 1932 features a circle of 12 white marble cylinders embossed with hour digits that arc around a central stud. Updates have been made to the iconic timepiece, including a 21-day mechanical movement. Gamesmanship, meanwhile, is taken to another level in a streamlined backgammon set ($35,000, fourth picture) made of sterling silver, Macassar ebony and sycamore – inspired by Jean Puiforcat’s original art-deco chess set.

The exhibition will also see the unveiling of Fluidité, a modern line of exquisite tea and coffee pieces created in collaboration with esteemed design artist Aldo Bakker. The artist’s latest sculptural interpretation of the classic tea and coffee service features eight items: a teapot and tea cup, a coffeepot and coffee cup, spoon, sugar bowl, creamer and display tray (from $95,000). This limited-edition series – just 20 of each piece have been made – is handcrafted from sterling silver, ebony and porcelain and employs both sharp geometry and soft curvilinear forms.

Puiforcat’s aesthetic continues into the 21st century and nowhere is it more exquisitely in evidence than here.

Francisco Costa talks personal taste: Part One

Francisco Costa is creative director of womenswear at Calvin Klein Collection, where he is known for his spare yet sensual aesthetic and show-stopping red-carpet gowns

Image: Martin Adolfsson

My personal style signifier is a collection of three rings. The first is a rosary prayer ring given to me by my mother when I turned 15; the second was my grandfather’s wedding ring and the third was my father’s. I never take them off.

The last thing I bought and loved was a pair of custom-made, crystal cufflinks from Verdura. These beautiful, faceted cylinders have a delicate gold chain and I plan to wear them with everything, from French cuff shirts and jeans to more formalwear. 745 Fifth Ave, Suite 1205, New York, NY 10151 (+1212-758 3388; www.verdura.com).

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a bleach-on-linen painting by Ed Ruscha called Sour Twist, currently on display at the Gagosian Gallery in New York. I think Ruscha is one of the world’s most iconic contemporary artists. 980 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10075 (+1212-744 2313; www.gagosian.com).

A recent “find” is Varney’s, a simple clam bar in Brookhaven near my weekend home on Long Island. It’s very authentic and fun and is always packed in summer. Situated right on Montauk Highway, it caters to everyone from locals to celebrities in search of good, fresh clam chowder and fried seafood. 2109 Montauk Highway, Brookhaven, New York, NY 11719 (+1631-286 9569; www.varneysrestaurant.com).

If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Rio. I love that it is a very outdoor city year-round and that the people are so warm and welcoming. You’ll find flora and fauna of every kind there and the Jardim Botânico is one of my favourite places to explore. The beaches – particularly Ipanema – are fantastic; I like the Cinelândia neighbourhood for its bookshops, restaurants and galleries; the Museu de Arte Moderna is a cultural highlight and I love having lunch at the eco-chic Hotel Santa Teresa. From the fresh Portuguese-inspired food to the beach culture, I adore the simplicity of life here. Hotel Santa Teresa, Rua Almirante Alexandrino 660 (+5521-2222 2755; www.santa-teresa-hotel.com). Jardim Botânico, Rua Jardim Botânico 1008 (+5521-3874 1808; www.jbrj.gov.br). Museu de Arte Moderna, Infante Dom Henrique 85, Parque do Flamengo (+5521-2240 4944; www.mamrio.com.br).

An indulgence I would never forego is books, books and more books. I love giving them as gifts, collecting them for my library and generally surrounding myself with them. Titles on my wish list include Dr David Ekserdjian’s Casting Modernity: Bronze in the XXth Century, Kenneth Frampton’s Kengo Kuma: Complete Works and Deborah Solomon’s Marcel Dzama: Puppets, Pawns, and Prophets. I buy a lot of my books online, but I also like the photography bookshop Dashwood Books in Nolita. 33 Bond St, New York, NY 10012 (+1212-387 8520; www.dashwoodbooks.com).

In my fridge you’ll always find caviar, Moët, which I don’t drink myself but like to have on hand, and bars of very good, raw dark chocolate that I buy at gourmet Italian deli Eataly. You’ll also find vitamins B12, C and D, which tend to sit there, unopened. 200 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10010 (+1212-229 2560; www.eataly.com).

The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Chelsea Barbers for my haircuts, Tracie Martyn for incredible, hydrating facials – I love the atmosphere at her salon – and Dr Frank Lipman, my supercool nutritionist at Eleven Eleven Wellness, who keeps me healthy and in balance. Chelsea Barbers, 465 West 23rd St (+1212‑741 2254; www.chelseabarbers.com). Dr Frank Lipman, Eleven Eleven Wellness Center, 32 West 22nd St (+1212-255 1800; www.drfranklipman.com). Tracie Martyn, 101 Fifth Ave (+1212-206 9333; www.traciemartyn.com).

The last music I downloaded was Brazilian: Verdade Uma Ilusão by Marisa Monte, whose voice is heavenly, and All in One by Bebel Gilberto. She comes from a family of great musicians and I love her sound.

My favourite websites are the shopping site Fancy, for a visually energetic and beautifully curated collection of everything from furniture to trainers, and 1stdibs, because it takes me on a journey across the world. www.1stdibs.com. www.fancy.com.

Francisco Costa talks personal taste: Part Two

The designer concludes his compendium of passions with Cambodia and Cole Porter’s cigarette box

My style icon is the British fashion stylist Camilla Nickerson. She dresses like no one else – I admire the way she mixes things up – and is effortlessly elegant and cool; even the natural way she wears her hair is refreshing.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a vintage cigarette box designed by Fulco di Verdura for the American singer-songwriter Cole Porter. This was a special gift to my partner that I bid for at auction and it sits on the table in our library. Sotheby’s, 1334 York Ave, New York, NY 10021 (+1212-606 7000; www.sothebys.com).

And the best gift I’ve received recently is a neon artwork created for me for my birthday by my design studio. It reads “Collaboration. Innovation. Fearlessness”: all principles and ideas we value at Calvin Klein, and it hangs in a very special place in my office.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose downtown Manhattan. I love Wyeth for mid-century-modern furniture, Space NK for potions and lotions, and a wonderful food emporium called All Good Things for stocking up on cut flowers, freshly baked bread and great coffee. All Good Things, 102 Franklin Street (+1212-925 5081; www.allgoodthingsny.com). Space NK, 99 Greene Street (+1212-941 4200; www.spacenk.com). Wyeth, 315 Spring Street (+1212-243 3661; www.wyethome.com).

The books on my bedside table are Rachel Zoe’s Living In Style: Inspiration and Advice for Everyday Glamour and Laura Lima, Ronald Duarte’s fascinating look at the mixed-media work of this Brazilian artist. My stack of reading material changes frequently, though, and might also include catalogues from the Wright Auction House, which highlights the best in contemporary design, and always FT Weekend.

The beauty staples I’m never without are Dr Bronner’s all-natural Organic Citrus Conditioning Hair Rinse, which isn’t particularly fancy but I love it, plus the brand's coconut oil, which I use for everything from softening my skin to brushing my teeth and gargling. It takes all the toxins away. Organic Citrus Conditioning Rinse, $10 for 8fl oz; Virgin Coconut Oil, $12 for 14fl oz; www.drbronner.com.

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a full white-tie ensemble that I designed for this year’s Met Ball. Everyone looked so spectacular that night, and I hope I’ll have another occasion to wear this suit again soon.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Cambodia. It is simply extraordinary, from Siem Reap and the spectacular Angkor Wat, to the delicious food and sheer force of nature I witnessed everywhere I went. My stay at the stellar Amansara – a very cool mid-century structure transformed into a luxury hotel – was particularly memorable. It once served as the King of Cambodia’s guest villa, and Jackie Onassis visited in the 1960s. From $1,100; Road to Angkor, Siem Reap (+85563-760 333; www.amanresorts.com).

An object I would never part with is a Lucio Fontana lithograph that was the first piece of art I ever bought. I discovered it in Milan – during a time when I was living and working in London many years ago – and it remains a very special part of my collection.

My favourite room in my house is my library, which gets beautiful morning light and has a soothing atmosphere. I enjoy spending time there alone, surrounded by books from floor to ceiling. It also features a basic, very functional desk and a comfortable sofa of my own design.

The site that inspires me is Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming. I love the American west and this area is very rich in natural beauty. The Teton mountain range is particularly breathtaking, with its rock formations, geysers and endless hikes.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Pablo Picasso. He broke all the rules and had a fearless approach to his work. I particularly love his later periods and think that he was a great influence on artists like Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat. He fundamentally changed the way we look at art.

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a set of little paint vials in very primary colours from Xi’an in China. I went to see the Terracotta Army soldiers at this gorgeous city on the Silk Road and spotted the vials in an art shop nearby. I bought hundreds and had to pay an extra baggage fee to get them home. They are beyond a souvenir to me; I find their pigments very raw and inspiring.

The last meal that truly impressed me was a special breakfast in Cambodia that was served in a simple, local home. We awoke at daybreak to see the sun rise over the temples and were then taken to this very basic wooden shack for kuyteav (noodle soup), fish wrapped in banana leaves and tea. The scent of jasmine was everywhere and the whole meal – and the morning in general – was very purifying.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be growing vegetables on a farm and living off the land. I find the idea of a simple life very appealing. As a child, I loved to construct things – buildings, gardens, whole environments – so I could also envision being an architect.

New Mexico’s The Love Apple restaurant

An haute-hippie hideaway set in the dramatic Sangre de Cristo Mountains

There is much that is special about Taos, New Mexico, a small town nestled in the dramatic Sangre de Cristo Mountains. There is the magnificent Taos Pueblo – a thriving Native American community still without running water or electricity – and the challenging slopes of Ski Valley, not to mention adobe architecture, artists and cowboys and endless high desert vistas at every turn. Add to that list incredible food – most of it locally sourced – that is prepared using traditional, regional ingredients in inventive and unexpected ways. At the top of my list is The Love Apple, a restaurant that is, I believe, worthy of Michelin stars.

Image: Nita van der Werff

The eatery is set in a sweet, old wooden chapel complete with a church bell – and while we opted to sit inside during my last visit, the atmospheric patio, framed in rough-hewn beams and twinkling tapered candles, beckoned.

Seated at one of just 13 tables, we browsed a menu of organic dishes famous for being made from scratch using added-hormone-free meats, local flour, produce and artisanal cheeses. Housemade flour tortillas with harissa, crème fraîche and cilantro-lime relish and bacon-wrapped dates (here made with bourbon-brined Arizona medjool dates) were perfect starters – and I am still dreaming about the Las Aguas Farm spinach salad with bacon, avocado, blue cheese and fried egg.

Chef de cuisine Andrea Meyer’s entrees were just as scrumptious, with her haute tacos particularly standout. We selected from chicken, fried avocado and chimichurri, and braised “grass-fed & finished” beef varieties, and then topped them liberally with green-chile coconut-creamed corn. Grilled ruby rainbow trout cooked in cornhusks with lime-compound butter and a delicate quinoa-piñon fritter was also memorable, as were sides of Love Apple potato gratin and green beans lightly sautéed with cinnamon. The wine list is similarly noteworthy, with pinot noirs from Oregon (Erath 2011), Bourgogne (Pascal Janvier 2012) and Sonoma (Flowers 2011) a few under-the-radar highlights.

The only cautionary advice I’d give about The Love Apple is to book in advance – there’s an extremely loyal local fan base – and bring cash. No credit cards are accepted, which only adds to the authentic, slightly hippie charm of the place.

Thierry Despont talks personal taste: Part One

Architect and designer Thierry Despont has renovated some of the world’s most iconic hotels, including The Ritz in Paris, which reopens next summer

Thierry Despont photographed at his New York office | Image: Circe Hamilton

My personal style signifier is a watch – either my Calibre de Cartier, which is elegant and simple, or a classic gold Breguet that features the phases of the moon and has a ringing bell as an alarm. I am always on time. Breguet from $29,000; www.breguet.com. Calibre de Cartier from £5,700; www.cartier.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was a photograph of the moon by the American scientist and photographer John William Draper. I am a passionate collector of books, maps and pictures of the moon, and Draper was one of the first people to capture images of its surface.

Despont’s Calibre de Cartier watch, from $29,000

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a first edition of Galileo Galilei’s Starry Messenger. This astronomical treatise features his telescopic observations and discovery of four of Jupiter’s satellites. I have a second edition of this rare book that has beautiful woodcuts and a first edition would complete my collection.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Bodeguita Antonio Romero, a relaxed and authentic tapas bar near the famous bullring in Seville. This is my favourite kind of food: small plates of manchego cheese, jamón and house specialities such as anchovies en salazón and chipirones rellenos. Calle Antonia Díaz 19, 41001 Seville (+3495-422 3939; www.bodeguitaantonioromero.com).

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a big, fat, navy blue lacquer fountain pen that I bought at Louis Vuitton in Paris. I love to write and correspond the old-fashioned way. €695; 6 Place Saint-Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris (+331-4549 6232; www.louisvuitton.com).

The last music I downloaded was Time Out by The Dave Brubeck Quartet – one of the most innovative albums in jazz history that’s become a classic – and Romanian pianist Rada Lupu’s recital of Schubert’s Moments Musicaux.

Starry Messenger by Galileo Galilei | Image: Circe Hamilton

The grooming staple I’m never without is Vetiver eau de toilette by Guerlain. It has notes of wood and spices and I’ve worn it every day for years. £22.50 for 100ml; www.guerlain.com.

My favourite room in my house is the art-deco-inspired, wood-panelled library on the top floor of my home in Tribeca, where I keep my collections of rare architectural books and leather-bound tomes on French history and literature. I love to relax and entertain here.

In my fridge you’ll always find a bottle of Baron de L Pouilly Fumé from the Loire Valley. I also like to have oysters or fresh sea urchins on hand and plenty of broccoli, which I eat steamed and drizzled with olive oil for breakfast every day. Baron de L Pouilly Fumé, £55; www.pouilly-fume.com.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Egon Schiele. He was a master draughtsman and there is a certain kind of poetry in his work – a combination of both happiness and tragedy.

Time Out by The Dave Brubeck Quartet

The site that inspires me is the Place Vendôme in Paris, where aside from my work on the Ritz I am also involved with the restoration of the historic Vendôme Column. The energy and light here are fantastic and the surrounding buildings by Jules Hardouin-Mansart mark the apex of French baroque architecture.

The best gift I’ve given recently is a pair of large linden trees to Barbara, the woman I love and share my life with. I gave them to her for her birthday and we planted them in our garden in the Hamptons; they frame the view from our bedroom window.

Guerlain Vetiver eau de toilette, £22.50 for 100ml

And the best one I’ve received is a box of steaks that my friend and client Ralph Lauren sent me from his ranch in Colorado. He sends a parcel of delicious, organically raised meat every year and I always look forward to this special gift.

My favourite websites are Via Libre for rare books and eBay for the old farm artefacts that I incorporate into my sculptures and artworks. I also like YouTube for a bit of gossip and entertainment, and 1stdibs for a wide array of furniture and design.

 www.1stdibs.com. www.ebay.com. www.vialibri.net. www.youtube.com.

Verdura Golf and Spa Resort Is the Sicilian Golf Resort You'll Never Want to Leave

All-inclusive resorts are usually a Fathom taboo. Unless it's a sleek Sicilian golf resort with stellar seaside views, high-end dining options, and a full-service spa. Christina Ohly checks out the secluded, self-sustaining spot outside Catania that's surprisingly hard to leave. And this time, we're okay with that.

Overview

Sleek stone finishes and fine linens, endless pools and play spaces, and four different and delicious restaurants mean you'll never want to leave Verdura Resort, a golf resort and spa on the southwestern coast of Sicily.

Claim to Fame

The spa is spectacular, with white zen spaces at every turn. Excellent aestheticians specialize in deep tissue massage.

What's on Site

Everything is on site: a great gym, a full-service spa, a pizzeria, and fine dining options. There's WiFi everywhere, but you'll only find Italian channels on television. Consider it part of the cultural immersion, like the resort's soccer clinics for kids led by Juventus players.

Details at Granita Bar, one of the many food and drink options on-site.

The Food

This is a Verdura highlight. Breakfast is served on an enormous poolside patio, and lunch and dinner options range from a simple pizzeria to the seaside Amare, where you get to select your fish from the catch of the day. Chef Fulvio Pierangelini, the famous executive chef of all Rocco Forte Hotels, is often around. He's wonderful, as are his on-site cooking classes.

This Place Is Perfect For

Families, as there are so many kid-centric activities and facilities: A long beach with toys and boats, various pools, tennis courts, and a manageable golf course. Soccer clinics, cool babysitters, and endless room for running around are other highlights. Verdura is also perfect for sun-seekers from the United Kingdom who can fly easily into Palermo or Catania for a weekend away.

But Not So Perfect For

Honeymooners. It seems a bit big and bustling. You never feel like you're seeing other people, so I'm sure there are secluded spaces, but they're not the order of the day.

Room with a View

I stayed in a junior suite with my two pre-teens. It was spacious and comfortable, with incredibly high ceilings and atmospheric linen netting over the king-size bed. Sweeping views of the golf course and the sea made for a relaxing stay.

Seriously awesome soccer camp headed by Juventus footballers.

Neighborhood Vibe

There is no town nearby, but you won't want to leave anyway. This is a self-sustaining compound, with food, drink, classes, sports of all kinds, beauty treatments...the list is endless. The only downside to all of this is that you'll feel slightly guilty for being in this historical part of the world and wanting to sit poolside, prosecco in hand, doing nothing more than reading a book between lunch and dinner.

What to Do Nearby

The Valley of the Temples in nearby Agrigento and the city of Catania, a UNESCO World Heritage site, are both musts. Force yourself off the sun lounger for these bits of culture and for a quick detour to the seaside village of Sciacca. This last stop provides a real dose of local color and a look at a working fishing port. Other nearby attractions include the ruins of Selinunte, Le Scale dei Turchi, and Eraclea Minoa.

Step out to seaside Sciacca. Photo by Christina Ohly.

BOOK IT

Rates start at €220. Click here for reservations.

FIND IT

Verdura Resort
S.S. 115 km 131, 92019
Sciacca, Sicily, Italy
+39-0925-998-001
reservations.verdura@roccofortehotels.com

Aboubakar Fofana: indigo impresario

Bespoke hand-woven textiles from a Mali-based artisan

The colour blue has long captivated artists from impressionist painters to Japanese wood-blockers, and for the Mali-based artist Aboubakar Fofana it is indigo – and traditional African dyeing techniques – that is close to his heart. The master craftsman and calligrapher creates stunning bespoke textiles from locally sourced plant material in beautiful shades of azure. Fofana delights in projects for companies (clients include Donna Karan and Edun) and private individuals, and creates anything from enormous tents (first picture) to custom bedding, pillows (second picture), clothing, tapestries and art.

After initial conversations with the client, Fofana sets about sketching the project in a storyboard fashion and producing a unique set of dyes from dried, green indigo leaves sourced from West Africa. Handwoven textiles are dyed to meet a client’s choice within a 12-colour range that runs from the lightest ice blue to a rich navy that is almost black. “Clients have come to the atelier pointing to the sky and asking for that particular shade. If the nuance can be dyed in indigo, I am happy to create textiles for anyone who understands my work.”

Basic commissions (from $235 per m) are completed in four to six weeks, with larger-scale pieces – the upholstery of an entire room, for example – taking up to several months. Clients can choose from organic materials such as cotton, linen, ramie and hemp, as well as wool, cashmere and silk. “Much of my own work uses handspun Malian cotton,” explains Fofana. “I love the texture, character and humanity that exists in these textiles.”

Based in the city of Bamako, Fofana remains committed to revitalising interest in his country’s dyeing traditions. “Over many years I have learned about this art through other masters, through reading, studying and practising. It has taken a long time to reconstruct a process that has largely been lost and to practise it as my ancestors did. It has finally produced some good results.”

Better than good: his results are fantastic.

By commission from Atelier Courbet, 175-177 Mott Street, New York (+1212-226 7378; www.ateliercourbet.com).

Delfina Delettrez talks personal taste: Part One

Fine jeweller Delfina Delettrez is a fourth generation Fendi who is known for glamorous talismanic and animal-inspired designs

Delfina Delettrez at home in Rome | Image: Fabio Massimo Aceto

My personal style signifiers are beautifully made, vintage-esque heels from Calzoleria Petrocchi, a bespoke Roman shoemaker my great-great grandmother discovered, and simple clerical skirts and dresses from Mario Bianchetti, which are the perfect backdrop for my jewellery. I have them tailored into modern silhouettes and pair them with bright, contemporary separates from Giambattista Valli, Saint Laurent or Valentino. Bianchetti, Via della Pigna 18, 00186 Rome (+3906-679 4837; www.bianchetti.it). Calzoleria Petrocchi, Vicolo Sugarelli 2, 00186 Rome (+3906-687 6289; www.calzoleriapetrocchi.it).  

The last thing I bought and loved was TheAgatha Christie Mystery Collection. I was introduced to her writing while staying at Istanbul’s Pera Palace Hotel, where she wrote Murder on the Orient Express. I have become obsessed with her detailed characters and their use of various poisons. Pera Palace Hotel, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 52, 34430 Istanbul (+9021-2377 4000; www.jumeirah.com).

Aesop Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, £19 for 75ml

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a painting by Ttozoi, two young Italian artists, Pino Rossi and Stefano Forgion, who use natural pigments and organic materials, such as milk, earth and flour, to create paintings that develop mould and transform over time. Their landscapes remind me of the cloud games I played as a child. I see something new every time I look at them. www.ttozoi.com.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Thien Kim, a simple Vietnamese trattoria in Rome that specialises in wonderful, authentic soups. I loved the Green Island Paradise broth full of vegetables, prawns and spices. My taste in food tends to be very particular, and everything there was fresh and delicious. Via Giulia 201, 00186 Rome (+3906-6830 7832).

An object I would never part with is a piece of unpolished quartz crystal that I bought in a children’s toyshop several years ago. I believe it is a powerful, healing stone and I carry it in my bag at all times. Occasionally I hold it in my hand for additional strength.

The last items of clothing I added to my wardrobe were white, custom-made men’s shirts from the tailor FG Albertelli; I mix them with everything from colourful skirts to vintage trousers. Via dei Prefetti 11, 00186 Rome (+3906-687 3793; www.flanellagrigia.com).

Delettrez’s Italian-edition Agatha Christie novels | Image: Fabio Massimo Aceto

The last music I downloaded was The Toe Rag Acoustic Sessions by Asgeir, an Icelandic singer-songwriter of beautiful, relaxing folk music, and Pollen by the Liverpool-based band Wave Machines, which mixes strong melodies with alternative rock.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a meditation course to a dear friend, consisting of four days of classes and several months of private sessions. I hope it’s a gift that lasts a lifetime. Centro di Meditazione Trascendentale, Viale Angelico 249, 00195 Rome (+3906-4106 5278; www.meditazionetrascendentale.it).

Delettrez’s Italian-edition Agatha Christie novels | Image: Fabio Massimo Aceto

The site that inspires me is Parco dei Mostri [Park of the Monsters] in Bomarzo. These fantastical gardens were designed in the 16th century and feature all kinds of statues, from Pegasus to the gaping mouth of Orcus, now overgrown with vegetation, as well as quirky buildings such as the Leaning House. www.parcodeimostri.com.

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is cumin from Morocco, which I now put on almost everything I eat. Shopping for spices in the souk was such an incredible, colourful adventure.

The 16th-century Parco dei Mostri, Bomarzo, Italy | Image: Getty Images/Robert Harding World Imagery

The beauty staples I’m never without are Aesop Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, a rich moisturising cream that I use several times a day; Uniqa vitamin E oil to nourish my skin and combat wrinkles; and thick, black NARS eye pencils that blend really easily. Aesop Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, £19 for 75ml; www.aesop.com. Uniqa E Topical Vitamin E Monodose Ampoules,from £40; www.donnauniqa.com. NARS Eyeliner in Via Veneto, £16; www.narscosmetics.co.uk.

My favourite websites are the pattern archive Patternity for design inspiration, Nowness for art and fashion and Susan Miller’s incredibly accurate horoscopes at AstrologyZone. www.astrologyzone.com.www.nowness.com. www.patternity.org.

Zone Out on the Beach in Sicily at Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea

Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly found a certain spot in the Mediterranean to sit back and tune out. She checks into a charming villa in Taormina for a serene stay on the Sicilian coast.

Overview

La. Dolce. Vita. Villa Sant'Andrea, the Belmond hotel on the beach in Taormina, Sicily, is simply a slice of heaven. The original villa was constructed in the 1830s and has been lovingly restored down to the tropical plants in the surrounding gardens. The crowd is a complete mixed bag, but you're guaranteed to find many Americans and Brits, primarily of older age, as quiet is the order of the day.

What's New

The old is what's great here, but the additions of a gym, a small spa, and complimentary boat tours (with swimming) of the surrounding islands and inlets are all pluses.

What's on Site

You'll find beautiful rooms and suites — most with flower-filled balconies and sea views — as well as the most picturesque patio for breakfasts that can last for hours. People don't come here to work out, but if you must sweat, the adequate small gym features several cardio machines. The spa does excellent in-room or outdoor massages. WiFi is available throughout the property, including at the pool and in the hotel's private beach cabanas.

Salty ocean breeze for breakfast. Photo by Christina Ohly.

The Food

Breakfast on the covered terrace is the highlight — a massive spread of yogurts, cereals, breads, and every fruit imaginable, as well as locally sourced honey and jam. And the coffee is killer, of course. Skip dinner as it is wildly expensive and not very charming. You'll have better in town, particularly at rooftop gem Viccolo Stretto in Taormina.

This Place Is Perfect For

Couples and families with extremely well-behaved, older children. This is Italy, so just about anyone and anything will work. But at these prices, it is a wonderful experience for a slightly older set.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone on a budget. The €10 Diet Cokes really do add up.

Room with a View

I stayed in a small sea view junior suite (Room 211) with exquisite views of the Bay of Mazzarò. The beds are dreamy — thick, firm mattresses with perfectly pressed cotton sheets — in that way that is so specific to great Italian hotels. All rooms have been upgraded to include electrical outlets for all chargers (US, UK, EU) and the most modern bathroom amenities. Be sure to request a room away from the service elevator, which kicks in very early in the morning.

Views inside and out. Photo courtesy of Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea.

Neighborhood Vibe

A shuttle whisks guests up to Taormina proper, where the atmospheric streets — winding passages, frescoed cathedrals, and trattorias galore — make for a fun afternoon or evening. This is not Capri: You won't find Gucci or Prada, but rather smaller, artisanal shops selling beads, limoncello, and some of the best gelato and granita I've had anywhere in Italy.

What to Do Nearby

Mount Etna often supplies visual excitement (it was active this past summer) and Siracusa is a little more than an hour away. A summertime film festival brings stars from around the globe who all stay at the sister property in town, Grand Hotel Timeo, which itself is worth a dinner overlooking the twinkling light of town and the Mediterranean in the distance. The picturesque towns of Modica and Noto — as well as the baroque Cathedral of San Giorgio — can be accessed by your very own Fiat 500, which can be arranged for in advance with the concierge.

The scene in Taormina. Photo by Gnuckx / Flickr. 

Los Angeles’s Just One Eye

Hollywood history, high art and fashion meet in this seriously cool boutique

In a storied art-deco building – once home to Howard Hughes’s film empire – you’ll find Just One Eye, a concept store co-founded in 2011 by fashion veteran Paola Russo. A favourite among style insiders, it’s a 5,000sq ft emporium that’s a mine of unexpected brands and innovative artistic collaborations.

Russo brings a serious fashion CV to the boutique – she worked with Ann Demeulemeester – and her picks pay homage to the quirky, the elegant and street chic. Clothing from Valentino, Chloé and Church’s is interspersed with pieces from more cutting-edge designers, including Atto, Lisa Marie Fernandez and Diemme. Meanwhile, cool accessories include limited-edition luxury backpacks (from $55,000) that are a design collaboration between Damien Hirst and The Row, and Converse trainers co-created with Nate Lowman ($25,000, third picture) plus show-stopping jewellery, such as a gorgeous emerald cocktail ring from French designer Arnaud Porchet ($16,500).

A curatorial eye is also behind the shop’s artwork. Alexander Calder wall hangings ($39,000-$48,000) sit beside edgy prints by NYC-based artist Marilyn Minter ($65,000), while coffee-table tomes such as Donald Judd Furniture: Retrospective ($3,500) are dotted throughout. Standout furniture includes a Maison Darré Triangle Table ($25,000); Chantal Saccomanno and Olivier Dayot’s stunning monochrome, lacquered The Red Line table ($28,000, fourth picture); and an art-nouveau Carlo Bugatti side chair ($14,500).

When I visited, chic metallic slides by Ancient Greek Sandals ($215) and Gianvito Rossi’s super-high Carey three-buckle pumps ($1,020) caught my eye. I was also thrilled to find a pair of black pony boots by Pierre Hardy ($1,595, sixth picture) – one of my favourite designers – while a crocodile chain bag by Jean Paul Gaultier alum Alexandre Vauthier ($20,795, fifth picture) was swiftly added to my wish list.

I ended my visit torn between several items but, thankfully, I only had to click online when I made my final decision…

Rome's Hot New Hotel Is a Poet's Old Home

An old property is becoming the big news in Roman hospitality. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly checked into the former home of German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the hot addition to Rome's hotel options.

CHECKING IN

La Scelta di Goethe has been spectacularly transformed into a series of sumptuous apartments that makes for a home stay like no other. Do not judge this book by its cover, as the entrance to the luxury apartments is a simple door on bustling Via del Corso, just around the corner from the Spanish Steps.

Guests are greeted at the main door and escorted up to the fourth floor apartments, where they're welcomed with fresh fruits, pressed juices, and champagne.

There are three suite options: Trinita dei Monti has sweeping terraces, a well-stocked library, and a rooftop soaking pool. Villa Medici has quiet bedrooms, a spacious and high-ceiling living room, and a private dining room overlooking the the domes of Trinita dei Monti. Goethe's Home, at 260 square meters, is the total house takeover that includes both Trinita dei Monti and Villa Medici suites. Access to additional communal areas makes it ideal for families, small groups, or those seeking big, elegant, silent space.

A stay at La Scelta is simply unlike anyplace else. Every finish and fabric — exquisite marbles! beautiful woods! — has been carefully considered by Mario Angelini, the warm owner. The dedicated butler and concierge stay completely out of sight — until you need to ask questions about running routes, cultural highlights, and hidden trattoria throughout this eternally wonderful city.

Claim to Fame

Just opened a year ago, the hotel is still under the radar, but it won't be for long. The name translates as "the choice of Goethe," and these are, in fact, the former apartments of German poet J.W. Goethe. A stay is like a wonderful history lesson with five-star polish and service and the best access to the city.

What's on Site

The refined attic apartments are more like the home of a Roman royal than the usual luxury hotel. There is nothing typical about the rich tapestries, the Florentine artwork, and the exceptional collections of contemporary glass that line the shelves. You will find yourself marveling at the overall design, a loving restoration of an historic building in the heart of the city, but one that incorporates the latest technologies in subtle ways (like loaded iPads in every guest room). The perfectly pressed sheets are of the highest thread count, and the amenities in the sleek bathrooms are Santa Maria Novella, including toothbrushes and paste. No small request is overlooked, and delectable snacks appear at key points throughout the day. No gym, no restaurant; good WiFi, televisions, and phones. The staff is happy to arrange gym passes. Markets just outside the front door make stocking up on cold Diet Cokes a cinch.

Room with a View

My extended family and I were lucky enough to take over the entire house, which made for a very different, more personal Roman stay. I slept in the quiet back room in the master suite. I absolutely loved the owner, Mario. With his warm smile and chatty Italian (I told him I spoke the language once upon a time, as in, 25 years ago), I learned so much about the neighborhood and the loving restoration of these apartments, as well as his sister property, San Buono, in the Tuscan hills.

The Food

Breakfast is the total highlight of any stay here, and, when possible, is served on the rooftop terrace, with 360-degree views of Villa Borghese, Vatican City, and Saint Carlo Church in the distance. It was a meal I won't soon forget: muesli, yogurt, meats and cheeses, berries of every kind, a delicious plum tart, fresh breads and croissants from the baker down the street. It just went on and on.

This Place Is Perfect For

Groups of six, families with older children, couples looking for a total escape. That La Scelta di Goethe can work for any and all is a testament to the staff and how hard they work to ensure that every guest is looked after.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone with mobility issues and small children, as there are multiple stairs involved. The cream-colored sofa fabrics and fine artworks by Pietro Bardellino aren't very kid-friendly either.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

The luxury suites are a complete oasis in an otherwise frenetic part of the city. You're a minute from the Spanish Steps, the high-end shops lining Via Condotti, and Piazza del Popolo, yet you'll feels like you've stepped back in time.

What to Do Nearby

You're in the middle of Rome. What can't you do? Area highlights include Basilica Santa Maria del Popolo, straciatella gelato from Il Gelato (Largo Monte D'Oro, 28), dinners outside at Piazza del Popolo's Dal Bolognese(more for the scene than the food, which is perfectly fine), and pizza and foccacia by the slice from Grano around the corner (literally, the best I've ever had). The Pantheon, the most beautiful building on earth, is a short walk away, as is lunch of incredible cheeses and crudo at nearby Roscioli.

FIND IT

La Scelta di Goethe
Via del Corso, 107, 00187
Roma, Italy
+39-06-6994-2219
info@lasceltadigoethe.com

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Little Black Book: Chef Nick Anderer's Favorite Roman Restaurants
La Dolce Everything: Rome on Two Wheels
Hometwon Debrief: Katie Parla's Rome

Amagansett’s chic Tiina the Store

Nordic cool meets East Coast elegance at this Long Island boutique

On a recent visit to Long Island, I came upon Tiina the Store, an Amagansett emporium of housewares, beauty products and under-the-radar fashion brands. Set in a 19th-century farmhouse, the shop is the loving work of Tiina Laakkonen, who draws on her Finnish roots and time spent working with Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, at Lanvin, and later at British Vogue, to curate a mix of classic pieces and new labels (there is a dedicated special “guest room” where emerging designers showcase their work).

A visit to the shop is to discover tablecloths set with graphic Marimekko ($198) and Klassböls linens ($39 for a napkin; $42 for a towel); Iittala black-and-white porcelain serving bowls ($125, second picture); and Scandinavian glass tumblers (sets of two, $28) in hues of lilac, sand and blue. Beauty products by cult brand Rodin sit alongside vitrines of semiprecious jewellery – pavé crescent earrings by Ten Thousand Things ($2,560, third picture) and rose gold necklaces by Two Starboard ($850) – while chic interiors pieces range from iconic Aalto Finlandia vases by Iittala ($145-$240, fourth picture) to simple birch tealights ($38) by Aarikka.

The best finds, however, are Laakkonen’s fashion selections. Her expertise really shines through, whether that be in her choice of Santa Cruz pullovers by Crippen ($345), hand-spun cashmere Picasso sweaters ($1,215, fifth picture) by LA-based brand The Elder Statesman, or, my personal favourite, French architect Denis Colomb’s silk, cotton and cashmere shawls ($190-$1,590). I have seen some of his scarves in New York City, but never such a wide selection.

“The store is full of things I love and have discovered either growing up in Finland, in my life in Paris and London, or while travelling,” says Laakkonen. Visitors are in for an extremely stylish treat…

Comma Workshop: message in a blanket

Stylish, custom, hand-stitched heirloom quilts with personalised missives

Quilts have long told stories, through words, patterns and pictures, and one artist keeping this narrative tradition alive is Kerry Larkin, who embroiders quilts with subtle lettering. Her chic creations are designed as heirloom pieces, and can be stitched with the text from wedding vows, for example, or a baby’s birthdate, as well as poetry, quotes and other written messages.

The process begins with a consultation with Larkin by phone or email, followed by three layout options. Clients will likely take inspiration from her past works, including the Counterpoint Collection (from $1,025), a collaboration with Paris-based writer Jody Jenkins that features simple, uplifting poetry, or the more intricate Reach Across quilt that comes with three layers of overlapping text (available in queen, $2,350, and king, $2,725).

All feature the artist’s signature freehand cursive, though clients can also choose from two additional font styles – Times New Roman or Tahoma  – while a range of colours can be selected, from charcoal to brilliant blue. Quilts can also be personalised by thread, trim and colour, in three standard sizes: smaller throws (60in x 65in), queen (86in x 93in) and king (104in x 104in). Requests for other sizes can also be accommodated.

All quilts (custom versions from $1,075) are made from 100 per cent cotton, and take four to six months to complete. Larkin, who comes from a family of quilt-makers, seamstresses and upholsters, learnt her craft from her great grandmother in the Pennsylvania Dutch country, before going on to study architecture. “I wanted to merge that design sense with something functional,” she says. “Quilts were the natural next step. Patches and patterns have been used for centuries in quilts, and I hope that my words will create something beautiful as well.”

La Scelta di Goethe’s sumptuous Roman suites

The German poet’s home has been gloriously restored, and has views to match

Recently, for a one-night layover in Rome, rather than book a touristy hotel by the Spanish Steps, I took the recommendation of a friend who is something of an Italy connoisseur. She suggested La Scelta de Goethe, adding that I shouldn’t be put off by the website, which doesn’t do justice to the restored former home of the German poet, writer and statesman. I briskly booked online and was intrigued when we pitched up outside the unassuming front door on Via del Corso. After being buzzed in and warmly greeted by one of the staff, our party of five piled into a tiny lift.

Spilling out on the fourth floor, we were escorted through the doors of this former pied-à-terre, now “an elegant attic” with some 260sq m of exquisitely furnished rooms, as well as balconies and terraces that afford 360-degree views of the city’s historical centre.

La Scelta di Goethe is actually comprised of two separate apartments – the Villa Medici Suite (€2,200; sleeps four), with its sprawling, high-ceilinged sitting room (first picture), and the slightly smaller, duplex Trinità dei Monti Suite (€1,600; sleeps two), with additional terraces, an outdoor hot tub and views toward Villa Borghese, Villa Medici and Trinità dei Monti. When the two suites are combined (for a total cost of €3,800 per night), as was the case during our stay, the effect is a magical space enlivened by 19th-century furnishings in gorgeous Florentine fabrics, elegant fireplaces and mosaic-tiled bathrooms (with state-of-the-art showers and Santa Maria Novella amenities; I do love a stay that includes luxe toothpaste). There is also a well-stocked library and a private dining room (second picture).

A butler is on hand 24/7, and ours was prepared to go the extra mile – literally – as he offered to suit up and accompany me on my 7am run, so that I wouldn’t get lost in the surrounding labyrinthine streets.

After one of the best – and, surprisingly, quietest – sleeps I’ve had in a long time, I woke to La Scelta de Goethe’s pièce de resistance the next morning: Continental breakfast taken on the impressive terrace. The stacks of pancakes, cereals and yogurts, choice of meat, cheese, fruit, cakes and pastries, not to mention excellent coffee, added up to one of the finest spreads I’ve seen; any and all eggs can be made to order as well. What made this meal particularly unforgettable was a chance to meet the owner Mario Angelini, who is often at his other property in Tuscany, San Buono, but just happened to pop by that morning, taking a genuine delight in educating us about the property and all its sumptuous finishes.

A truly chic and memorable, if fleeting, stay.

How to Have the Perfect Family Vacation in the Berkshires

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

After your dose of high art, these historic towns offer more low-key culture. Start at Stockbridge’s Norman Rockwell Museum; this summer’s event “Mom, Apple Pie, and Rockwell’s Models” is a celebration of the simple pleasures that inspired the artist, with music, classic American fare, and the chance to meet some of his models (413-298-4100).

STAY

The history lessons continue at the Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge. Dating from 1773, it has period furnishings and a wide porch with rocking chairs (30 Main St.; 413-298-5545; doubles from $155).

Williamstown & North Adams

From here, it’s a few miles east to North Adams and MASS MoCA. Stop by the contemporary art hub’s dedicated Kidspace, which has installations by Anselm Kiefer and colorful wall drawings by Sol LeWitt (413-662-2111). Nearly an acre of interior walls were built at MASS MoCA to showcase LeWitt’s large-scale drawings.

STAY

After a day of exploring, retreat to the Porches Inn at MASS MoCA, a series of Victorian row houses with oversized rooms and suites that work particularly well for families (231 River St.; 413-664-0400; doubles from $190). The pool is a big plus on hot summer days, as are the breakfasts, which are delivered to your door in traditional millworkers’ lunch boxes. There’s also the Guest House at Field Farm, a Williamstown B&B with a mid-century modern aesthetic and an impressive contemporary art collection. It’s on 300-plus acres of conservation land, with guided walks for children in summer (554 Sloan Rd.; 413-458-3135; doubles from $200).

Lenox & Becket

Summer is high season for the performing arts here. Tanglewood, home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra in July and August, premieres on July 5 in Lenox, south of Williamstown. Pack a picnic, sit on the lawn, and listen to performers like Joshua Bell, Yo-Yo Ma, and James Taylor. The Afternoon Family Concerts and the Boston Pops’ rendition of _The Wizard of Oz _are lively and informal, with children roaming (relatively) free on the lawns, even during concerts (888-266-1200).

PLAY

There’s always something inspiring to see at the Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival in Becket, where free outdoor performances Wednesday through Saturday evenings—more than 40 throughout the season—offer a distinguished lineup of contemporary dance and ballet (413-243-0745). Shakespeare & Company’s summer production of _Romeo and Juliet _at The Mount—Edith Wharton’s majestic former estate, pictured here—gives young theatergoers an introduction to the playwright, while scavenger hunts keep the little ones busy in maze-like gardens (413-551-5111).

Lenox & Becket

Even in an area with no shortage of great lodgings and restaurants, Wheatleigh—a spectacular 19th-century Florentine-inspired palazzo in Lenox—stands out as one of the most luxurious. Parents can relax in a neutral-hued suite or by the pool while children explore the endless lawns (11 W. Hawthorne Rd.; 413-637-0610; doubles from $715). Stonover Farm, a B&B also in Lenox, has two stand-alone villas—the two-bedroom Rock Cottage and the 600-square-foot School House—for families craving a little extra space (169 Under Mountain Rd.; 413-637-9100; doubles from $335). Just up the road, the stately Blantyre is another excellent option; kids will love the turrets, gargoyles, and other castle-like ornamentation, as well as games like boccie, shuffleboard, and croquet. There’s also a superlative spa for adults (16 Blantyre Rd.; 413-637-3556; doubles from $600).

Lenox & Becket

Regardless of where you stay, stop at a roadside stand for fresh produce, then breakfast burritos and granola at the Haven Cafe and Bakery in Lenox (8 Franklin St.; 413-637-8948). And be sure to have dinner at Becket’s Dream Away Lodge, a farmhouse where the food, including the delicious duck carnitas tacos, is as magical as the atmosphere; there’s also live music and bonfires nightly (1342 County Rd.; 413-623-8725; entrées from $20).

Williamstown & North Adams

A quintessential college town complete with church spires and a postcard-worthy main street, Williamstown (home of Williams College) would merit a stop even if it weren’t the site of the new Tadao Ando–designed Clark Art Institute, which opens on the Fourth of July. Families can fill an entire afternoon and evening on some days with everything from outdoor concerts to the stellar collection of Impressionist art, as well as the interactive Looking Carefully Cards for kids six and up, which turn gallery gazing into an act of discovery (413-458-2303). For your naturalists-in-training, head to Cricket Creek Farm, a working Williamstown dairy and bakery where they’ll learn about caring for farm animals and making cheese (1255 Oblong Rd.; 413-458-5888). Or you can spend an afternoon watching dragonflies flit and red-tailed hawks soar at Mountain Meadow Preserve, 180 pastoral acres with miles of easy trails just up the road from Williamstown (413-298-3239).

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

Also in Stockbridge, the Berkshire Botanical Garden (pictured)—with its free Family Fridays featuring birds of prey and the snakes of Berkshire County, a hut made of willow, and a Hogwarts-inspired herb garden full of wacky-looking plants—shouldn’t be missed (413-298-3926). Nor should the nearby Naumkeag, an eccentric Gilded Age estate with eight acres of terraced gardens (413-298-3239).

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

Cooling off at Bash Bish Falls State Park, home to the area’s highest single-drop waterfall and a short drive from Great Barrington.

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

For another outdoor excursion, visit Otis Reservoir (pictured), outside Great Barrington, or Sheffield’s Bartholomew’s Cobble, the only National Natural Landmark in the Berkshires, with massive limestone and marble outcroppings created by ancient geologic shifts (413-229-8600).

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

Picking berries is a rite of summer in the Berkshires, with blueberry season kicking off at Great Barrington’s Windy Hill Farm on or around the Fourth of July (413-298-3217). Nearby, Noble’s Tweenbrook Farm has strawberries (356 E. New Lenox Rd.; 413-443-2210) and Bartlett’s Orchard, in Richmond, offers late-summer apple picking (413-698-2559).

EAT

In Great Barrington, the French-inflected Bizalion’s is known for its simple menu of crusty baguettes filled with prosciutto, Gruyère, and sweet cornichons (684 Main St.; 413-644-9988; sandwiches from $8). For an early dinner of _shumai _and soba, go to **Bizen Kaiseki **(17 Railroad St.; 413-528-4343; entrées from $7). End the evening the way all good summer evenings should: with ice cream. You can’t go wrong with a scoop of mint chip or mission fig from SoCo Creamery (955 S. Main St.; 413-528-8400).

Alan Faena’s Miami Beach

The Argentine developer and hotelier has enlisted Pritzker Prize-winning architects Norman Foster and Rem Koolhaas to design his new cultural and residential Faena Miami Beach

lan Faena on Miami Beach | Image: Jeffery Salter

I love spending weekends in Miami Beach because I find the mix of South American and Caribbean cultures so energising. I wake very early on Saturday mornings and start the day by saying a little prayer overlooking the ocean. This is followed by some quiet meditation, a cup of maté – the typical Argentinian tea – and playing with my son, Noa. I enjoy a light breakfast accompanied by the music that is a big part of my life. I have an extensive collection of rare albums that includes everything from tango to cumbia – Colombian music with European and African influences. I enjoy making playlists that set the tone of everything I do.

Later I go to the Equinox gym on nearby Collins Avenue. Or if I am in a quieter mood, I might take a yoga lesson at Green Monkey in Sunset Harbor, where classes are built around the core values of positivity, balance and community.

I don’t like to plan things too far ahead; I prefer to feel the vibe of the day and embrace it. If the weather is beautiful – and it almost always is – I’ll take a long walk on the beach before lunch. I like the area near our new development at Collins Avenue and 32nd Street, which has one of the widest stretches of white sand in Miami Beach.

I often take a small boat from our marina to Garcia’s for a lunch of fresh seafood – ceviche and grilled lobster – served at outdoor tables along the Miami River. Then I like to explore this dynamic city by just walking and absorbing the eclectic architecture. Afternoons are often spent at Vizcaya, an incredible villa with elaborate gardens, or museums and galleries such as the Wolfsonian in the Art Deco District. Another favourite is the Wynwood Arts District, an area full of restaurants and shops; it has a massive open-air art installation and the annual Red Dot Art Fair, an enormous tented space where I always find sculpture and photography by emerging artists.  

Afterwards I’ll return home to catch up on the news or read a good book – often Tolstoy’s A Calendar of Wisdom, which I find inspiring – with a nice glass of wine from the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. In the evening, I like to join friends at Casa Tua for Italian food served in a magical garden with Moroccan lanterns. It is just like being in a private home and the tagliatelle with black truffles is always excellent. For fresh fish and mezes, I’ll head to Mandolin, an Aegean bistro in the Design District that feels authentically Greek. After a delicious meal and some good conversation, I’m typically home by midnight.

Sunday starts at JugoFresh with a Vamos Green juice – a smoothie packed with apple, cucumber and kale – followed by croque-monsieurs and croissants at French-owned La Sandwicherie. If I feel like brunch, I’ll go to Michael’s – a vibrant bistro in the Design District with excellent frittatas and people-watching.

Afternoons are often spent shopping – mostly for books or records along Lincoln Road – or visiting the Bass Museum of Art. If I am looking for unique clothes I’ll visit The Webster, a three-storey art-deco boutique that has a great café. I also like Taschen for books on art and design and I always find curious objects and new music at Base, a quirky store full of limited-edition finds.

In the evening I’ll invite people over and prepare an enormous barbecue with all kinds of meat and vegetables, best enjoyed watching the sunset with a good Malbec. And after an exciting weekend of art, food and friends, a bath with essential oils leaves me refreshed for the busy week ahead.

BASE, 939 Lincoln Road (+1305-531 4982; www.baseworld.com). Bass Museum of Art, 2100 Collins Avenue (+1305-673 7530; www.bassmuseum.org). Casa Tua, 1700 James Avenue (+1305-673 1010; www.casatualifestyle.com/miami). Equinox, 520 Collins Avenue (+1305-673 1172; www.equinox.com). Garcia’s, 398 NW North River Drive (+1305-375 0765; www.garciasmiami.com). Green Monkey, 1827 Purdy Avenue (+1305-397 8566; www.greenmonkey.com). Jugofresh, Suite 102, 1935 West Avenue (+1786-472 2552; www.jugofresh.com). La Sandwicherie, 229 14th Street (+1305-532 8934; www.lasandwicherie.com). Mandolin, 4312 NE 2nd Avenue (+1305-749 9140; www.mandolinmiami.com). Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, 130 NE 40th Street (+1305-573 5550; www.michaelsgenuine.com). Red Dot Art Fair, 3011 NE 1st Avenue at the corner of NE 31st Street (+1917-273 8621; www.reddotfair.com). Taschen, 1111 Lincoln Road (+1305-538 6185; www.taschen.com). Vizcaya Museum & Gardens, 3251 S Miami Avenue (+1305-250 9133; www.vizcaya.org). The Webster, 1220 Collins Avenue (+1305-674 7899; www.thewebstermiami.com). Wolfsonian-FIU, 1001 Washington Avenue (+1305-531 1001; www.wolfsonian.org). Wynwood Arts District, 167 NW 25th Street (+1305-695 1600; www.wynwoodmiami.com).

Diane von Furstenberg talks personal taste: Part One

Forty years after she launched her iconic wrap dress, Diane von Furstenberg oversees an empire that includes 97 stores in 55 countries

My personal style signifier is a gold H Stern chain-link bracelet I wear every day. It is engraved with sutras that are meaningful to me: knowledge, abundance, love, laughter, integrity, harmony, peace and freedom. £19,900;www.hstern.net.

The sight that inspires me is a blood-moon eclipse. I recently got up at 3am to see one of these rare, beautiful events from the deck of Eos, our three-masted Bermuda-rigged sailing yacht. It was a crystal-clear night, so to see the moon that spectacular reddish orange colour was particularly breathtaking.

Diane von Furstenberg by H Stern gold Sutras bracelet, £19,900. | Image: Dorothy Hong

The last meal that truly impressed me was at The Beatrice Inn in the West Village, sister restaurant to Graydon Carter’s Waverley Inn, where the scene is buzzing and the food is beautifully prepared using only the most seasonal ingredients. 285 W 12th St, New York, NY 10014 (+1917-566 7400; www.thebeatriceinn.com).

An object I would never part with is a gold coin given to me by my father many years ago. It is always with me and during my fashion shows I make sure it is tucked safely inside my shoe. It brings me luck. Everything else I could be parted with; memories are the most special things I possess, and no one can take those away.

A recent “find” is The Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh. I am always discovering new aspects of this comprehensive collection that includes everything from drawings to film, his 1960s pop paintings to his 1980s collaborations with Jean-Michel Basquiat. 117 Sandusky St, Pittsburgh, PA 15212 (+1412-237 8300; www.warhol.org).

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a pair of spectacular knee-length, embroidered black silk folkloric boots called tsholhams that I bought at a market in Bhutan. I also treasure the brightly coloured mandala given to me by the King and Queen of Bhutan after a magnificent dinner at their palace. It hangs in my office and reminds me of that special trip and their friendship.

The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburg | Image: Abby Warhola

In my fridge you’ll always find pomegranates, which I like to eat for breakfast, fresh crudités, as I try to eat raw food as much as possible, quinoa salad and Kor Shots – energy-packed, immunity-boosting little drinks that I swear by and always have on hand. www.korshots.com.

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a pale grey fleece hoodie from James Perse. It is warm and comfortable and can be worn over everything. I have also added a lovely new assortment of colourful kaftans and pareos to my Eos wardrobe that will be spot-on for summer sailing. James Perse hoodie, £225; www.jamesperse.co.uk. Diane von Furstenberg kaftans, from £313; www.dvf.com.

St Vincent by St Vincent

My favourite room in my house is the studio at Cloudwalk, my home in Connecticut. It is a huge, airy space filled with hundreds of books and an enormous George Nakashima table that serves as my desk. It is my private sanctuary.

The last music I downloaded was Happy and Girl by Pharrell Williams, at the suggestion of my teenage granddaughter Talita, and American singer-songwriter St Vincent’s eponymous album. She is a tremendous talent and has performed during my catwalk shows.

The beauty staples I’m never without are Tracie Martyn’s Firming Serum, a formula that is full of antioxidants and is the only thing I will use on my face; Moroccanoil Clarifying Shampoo, which is very moisturising; and Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, which is an old favourite. Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, £26 for 200ml; www.elizabetharden.co.uk. Moroccanoil Clarifying Shampoo, £18.45 for 250ml; www.moroccanoil.com. Tracie Martyn Firming Serum, $185 for 30ml; www.traciemartyn.com.

My favourite websites and apps are Net‑a‑Porter for the latest fashion and Chicago-based Wright for the best in contemporary furniture and design. I also admire Vital Voices, which is an important forum that highlights the work of incredible women from around the globe. For sheer pleasure, I like the Scrabble and FreeCell solitaire apps. www.apple.com/itunes. www.net-a-porter.com.www.vitalvoices.org. www.wright20.com.