Alan Faena’s Miami Beach
The Argentine developer and hotelier has enlisted Pritzker Prize-winning architects Norman Foster and Rem Koolhaas to design his new cultural and residential Faena Miami Beach
The Argentine developer and hotelier has enlisted Pritzker Prize-winning architects Norman Foster and Rem Koolhaas to design his new cultural and residential Faena Miami Beach
lan Faena on Miami Beach | Image: Jeffery Salter
I love spending weekends in Miami Beach because I find the mix of South American and Caribbean cultures so energising. I wake very early on Saturday mornings and start the day by saying a little prayer overlooking the ocean. This is followed by some quiet meditation, a cup of maté – the typical Argentinian tea – and playing with my son, Noa. I enjoy a light breakfast accompanied by the music that is a big part of my life. I have an extensive collection of rare albums that includes everything from tango to cumbia – Colombian music with European and African influences. I enjoy making playlists that set the tone of everything I do.
Later I go to the Equinox gym on nearby Collins Avenue. Or if I am in a quieter mood, I might take a yoga lesson at Green Monkey in Sunset Harbor, where classes are built around the core values of positivity, balance and community.
I don’t like to plan things too far ahead; I prefer to feel the vibe of the day and embrace it. If the weather is beautiful – and it almost always is – I’ll take a long walk on the beach before lunch. I like the area near our new development at Collins Avenue and 32nd Street, which has one of the widest stretches of white sand in Miami Beach.
I often take a small boat from our marina to Garcia’s for a lunch of fresh seafood – ceviche and grilled lobster – served at outdoor tables along the Miami River. Then I like to explore this dynamic city by just walking and absorbing the eclectic architecture. Afternoons are often spent at Vizcaya, an incredible villa with elaborate gardens, or museums and galleries such as the Wolfsonian in the Art Deco District. Another favourite is the Wynwood Arts District, an area full of restaurants and shops; it has a massive open-air art installation and the annual Red Dot Art Fair, an enormous tented space where I always find sculpture and photography by emerging artists.
Afterwards I’ll return home to catch up on the news or read a good book – often Tolstoy’s A Calendar of Wisdom, which I find inspiring – with a nice glass of wine from the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. In the evening, I like to join friends at Casa Tua for Italian food served in a magical garden with Moroccan lanterns. It is just like being in a private home and the tagliatelle with black truffles is always excellent. For fresh fish and mezes, I’ll head to Mandolin, an Aegean bistro in the Design District that feels authentically Greek. After a delicious meal and some good conversation, I’m typically home by midnight.
Sunday starts at JugoFresh with a Vamos Green juice – a smoothie packed with apple, cucumber and kale – followed by croque-monsieurs and croissants at French-owned La Sandwicherie. If I feel like brunch, I’ll go to Michael’s – a vibrant bistro in the Design District with excellent frittatas and people-watching.
Afternoons are often spent shopping – mostly for books or records along Lincoln Road – or visiting the Bass Museum of Art. If I am looking for unique clothes I’ll visit The Webster, a three-storey art-deco boutique that has a great café. I also like Taschen for books on art and design and I always find curious objects and new music at Base, a quirky store full of limited-edition finds.
In the evening I’ll invite people over and prepare an enormous barbecue with all kinds of meat and vegetables, best enjoyed watching the sunset with a good Malbec. And after an exciting weekend of art, food and friends, a bath with essential oils leaves me refreshed for the busy week ahead.
BASE, 939 Lincoln Road (+1305-531 4982; www.baseworld.com). Bass Museum of Art, 2100 Collins Avenue (+1305-673 7530; www.bassmuseum.org). Casa Tua, 1700 James Avenue (+1305-673 1010; www.casatualifestyle.com/miami). Equinox, 520 Collins Avenue (+1305-673 1172; www.equinox.com). Garcia’s, 398 NW North River Drive (+1305-375 0765; www.garciasmiami.com). Green Monkey, 1827 Purdy Avenue (+1305-397 8566; www.greenmonkey.com). Jugofresh, Suite 102, 1935 West Avenue (+1786-472 2552; www.jugofresh.com). La Sandwicherie, 229 14th Street (+1305-532 8934; www.lasandwicherie.com). Mandolin, 4312 NE 2nd Avenue (+1305-749 9140; www.mandolinmiami.com). Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, 130 NE 40th Street (+1305-573 5550; www.michaelsgenuine.com). Red Dot Art Fair, 3011 NE 1st Avenue at the corner of NE 31st Street (+1917-273 8621; www.reddotfair.com). Taschen, 1111 Lincoln Road (+1305-538 6185; www.taschen.com). Vizcaya Museum & Gardens, 3251 S Miami Avenue (+1305-250 9133; www.vizcaya.org). The Webster, 1220 Collins Avenue (+1305-674 7899; www.thewebstermiami.com). Wolfsonian-FIU, 1001 Washington Avenue (+1305-531 1001; www.wolfsonian.org). Wynwood Arts District, 167 NW 25th Street (+1305-695 1600; www.wynwoodmiami.com).
Diane von Furstenberg talks personal taste: Part One
Forty years after she launched her iconic wrap dress, Diane von Furstenberg oversees an empire that includes 97 stores in 55 countries
Forty years after she launched her iconic wrap dress, Diane von Furstenberg oversees an empire that includes 97 stores in 55 countries
My personal style signifier is a gold H Stern chain-link bracelet I wear every day. It is engraved with sutras that are meaningful to me: knowledge, abundance, love, laughter, integrity, harmony, peace and freedom. £19,900;www.hstern.net.
The sight that inspires me is a blood-moon eclipse. I recently got up at 3am to see one of these rare, beautiful events from the deck of Eos, our three-masted Bermuda-rigged sailing yacht. It was a crystal-clear night, so to see the moon that spectacular reddish orange colour was particularly breathtaking.
Diane von Furstenberg by H Stern gold Sutras bracelet, £19,900. | Image: Dorothy Hong
The last meal that truly impressed me was at The Beatrice Inn in the West Village, sister restaurant to Graydon Carter’s Waverley Inn, where the scene is buzzing and the food is beautifully prepared using only the most seasonal ingredients. 285 W 12th St, New York, NY 10014 (+1917-566 7400; www.thebeatriceinn.com).
An object I would never part with is a gold coin given to me by my father many years ago. It is always with me and during my fashion shows I make sure it is tucked safely inside my shoe. It brings me luck. Everything else I could be parted with; memories are the most special things I possess, and no one can take those away.
A recent “find” is The Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh. I am always discovering new aspects of this comprehensive collection that includes everything from drawings to film, his 1960s pop paintings to his 1980s collaborations with Jean-Michel Basquiat. 117 Sandusky St, Pittsburgh, PA 15212 (+1412-237 8300; www.warhol.org).
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a pair of spectacular knee-length, embroidered black silk folkloric boots called tsholhams that I bought at a market in Bhutan. I also treasure the brightly coloured mandala given to me by the King and Queen of Bhutan after a magnificent dinner at their palace. It hangs in my office and reminds me of that special trip and their friendship.
The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburg | Image: Abby Warhola
In my fridge you’ll always find pomegranates, which I like to eat for breakfast, fresh crudités, as I try to eat raw food as much as possible, quinoa salad and Kor Shots – energy-packed, immunity-boosting little drinks that I swear by and always have on hand. www.korshots.com.
The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a pale grey fleece hoodie from James Perse. It is warm and comfortable and can be worn over everything. I have also added a lovely new assortment of colourful kaftans and pareos to my Eos wardrobe that will be spot-on for summer sailing. James Perse hoodie, £225; www.jamesperse.co.uk. Diane von Furstenberg kaftans, from £313; www.dvf.com.
St Vincent by St Vincent
My favourite room in my house is the studio at Cloudwalk, my home in Connecticut. It is a huge, airy space filled with hundreds of books and an enormous George Nakashima table that serves as my desk. It is my private sanctuary.
The last music I downloaded was Happy and Girl by Pharrell Williams, at the suggestion of my teenage granddaughter Talita, and American singer-songwriter St Vincent’s eponymous album. She is a tremendous talent and has performed during my catwalk shows.
The beauty staples I’m never without are Tracie Martyn’s Firming Serum, a formula that is full of antioxidants and is the only thing I will use on my face; Moroccanoil Clarifying Shampoo, which is very moisturising; and Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, which is an old favourite. Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, £26 for 200ml; www.elizabetharden.co.uk. Moroccanoil Clarifying Shampoo, £18.45 for 250ml; www.moroccanoil.com. Tracie Martyn Firming Serum, $185 for 30ml; www.traciemartyn.com.
My favourite websites and apps are Net‑a‑Porter for the latest fashion and Chicago-based Wright for the best in contemporary furniture and design. I also admire Vital Voices, which is an important forum that highlights the work of incredible women from around the globe. For sheer pleasure, I like the Scrabble and FreeCell solitaire apps. www.apple.com/itunes. www.net-a-porter.com.www.vitalvoices.org. www.wright20.com.
Diane von Furstenberg talks personal taste: Part Two
The fashion designer wraps up her compendium of passions and temptations with love letters to London and LA
The fashion designer wraps up her compendium of passions and temptations with love letters to London and LA
My style icon is Marlene Dietrich. Whether on screen or off, she had her own distinct look and often wore masculine clothes to great effect. She was also very courageous and was awarded the US Medal of Freedom and Légion d’Honneur in recognition of her wartime work.
The last thing I bought and loved was a self-portrait by the artist Anh Duong. She is a good friend, and I love the way she explores her relationship with herself and how she engages directly with the viewer through her work. She is a master portraitist and I have been lucky enough to sit for her, too. www.anhduongart.com.
Ray’s and Stark Bar at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art | Image: Dustin Downing
And the things I’m eyeing next are some heritage apple, pear and plum trees for Cloudwalk, in Connecticut. This farm is my escape and I love to plant and garden there.
The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Reyad Fritas at Frédéric Fekkai, who colours my hair with henna, and Tracie Martyn for my weekly all-natural facials. I am also very dependent on my personal chef Jane Coxwell, who is a master at creating healthy, delicious meals for my husband and me, as well as for our private parties. Frédéric Fekkai, 4th Floor, 712 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10019 (+1212-753 9500; www.fekkai.com). Jane Coxwell, www.janecoxwell.com. Tracie Martyn, 101 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-206 7315; www.traciemartyn.com).
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Bhutan. I went with my dear friend Christian Louboutin and we hiked to various temples, including the spectacular Punakha Dzong. We stayed at Amankora Punakha, a paradise reached by a suspended bridge decorated with colourful prayer flags. This country is so lush and I loved the monasteries, the markets selling beaded handicrafts, the time to meditate and the delicious meals of watermelon and tomato gazpacho and Bhutanese lentil balls. Best of all were the kind people, who made this trip so magical. www.amanresorts.com.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a series of beautiful books to a friend. It included Diana Vreeland Memos: The Vogue Years by her son Alexander Vreeland and Swans: Legends of the Jet Society by Nick Foulkes, which paints a picture of a glamorous, bygone era.
Capital in the Twenty-First Century by Thomas Piketty
And the best one I’ve received is a silver and diamond pavé bracelet on a dark silk string, designed by Danish jeweller Jannik Olander. It has healing properties and was a birthday present from my son Alexander. For Christmas he gave me a portrait of myself by Takashi Murakami – he’s a great gift giver. Jannik Olander, www.nialaya.com.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose London’s Mayfair, because to me that area is London. I love Smythson for diaries and leather goods, Fortnum & Mason for smoked salmon, and Heywood Hill for sourcing books about art and design, as well as the latest fiction. Claridge’s feels like a home from home, as I designed several suites there and the staff are always warm and welcoming. I also love Scott’s for its great balance of delicious seafood and a lively scene. Claridge’s, 49 Brook Street, W1 (020-7629 8860; www.claridges.co.uk). Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, W1 (0845-300 1707; www.fortnumandmason.com). Heywood Hill, 10 Curzon Street, W1 (020-7629 0647; www.heywoodhill.com). Scott’s, 20 Mount Street, W1 (020-7495 7309; www.scotts-restaurant.com). Smythson, 40 New Bond Street, W1 (0845-873 2435; www.smythson.com).
Amankora Punakha, Bhutan | Image: Amanresorts
he books on my bedside table are now more likely to be on my iPad. I always read several books at once and I am currently enjoying Capital in the Twenty-First Century by Thomas Piketty, Holy Terror: Andy Warhol Close Up by Bob Colacello and A Story Lately Told: Coming of Age in London, Ireland and New York, which is Anjelica Huston’s colourful account of growing up in the 1960s and 1970s.
An indulgence I would never forego is really good dark chocolate. I was raised in Belgium, where chocolate is a part of everyday life, and I never deprive myself of it. One of my favourite brands is Côte d’Or and I have at least a little piece every day. www.cotedor.com.
Schism of the Heart by Anh Duong | Image: Courtesy of Anh Duong/Tom Powel Imaging
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Henri Matisse. He and I share a birthday and I love his exuberant use of colour and shape. I would collect everything, including the beautiful painted paper cut-outs that are currently on view at the Tate Modern. Until September 7 at Tate Modern, Bankside, London SE1 (020-7887 8888; www.tate.org.uk).
If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Los Angeles. My two children, Tatiana and Alexander, live there and I love the natural light and opportunity to be outdoors all year round. Two of my favourite activities are hiking and swimming and I’d do both every day. I’m also a huge fan of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (Lacma) and its restaurant, Ray’s, which serves Mediterranean cuisine in an intimate midcentury-modern setting. Other highlights include brunch at The Beverly Hills Hotel, delicious macrobiotic meals at the casual M Café de Chaya and dinner at the atmospheric Chateau Marmont. Chateau Marmont, 8221 Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood (+1323-656 1010; www.chateaumarmont.com). Lacma and Ray’s and Stark Bar, 5905 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles (+1323-857 6180; www.lacma.org). M Café de Chaya, 7119 Melrose Avenue, Hollywood (+1323-525 0588; www.mcafedechaya.com).
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an architect or a playwright. I love building and designing things, but I think I would lose a lot of sleep constantly second-guessing my decisions about where to put doors, how to organise layout, flow and so forth. The ability to write a good, well-built play would be another great achievement.
The Dunmore: a blissful bolthole in the Bahamas
A Harbour Island hotel and restaurant that’s a paean to old world glamour
A Harbour Island hotel and restaurant that’s a paean to old world glamour
I have been going to the Bahamas’ Harbour Island – an unspoilt slip of pink sand encircled in turquoise waters – for many years, and thought I had the place pretty well worked out. The Landing is the place to go for great dinners outdoors; the Rock House overlooking the bay is the spot for chic-people watching; and Sip-Sip is the bustling beachfront boîte where lobster quesadillas are the order of the (mid)day. But I must add to this short list of favourites The Dunmore, a boutique hotel and restaurant with a clubby vibe that calls to mind Palm Beach c1960.
The Dunmore has, in fact, been operating since 1963 – first for members, and from 2010 as a stylish bolthole for a broader clientele complete with charming bar, dining room and 15 nautical-chic guest cottages created by Nassau-based interior designer Amanda Lindroth. Vintage rattan furniture sits beside modern Lucite tables and John Robshaw textiles, while outside, bougainvillea and night jasmine line the walkways from the secluded rooms to the central clubhouse. The scene oozes old-world, ocean-hideaway glamour.
A pre-dinner cocktail beneath the slowly swirling fans and beside stacks of art books and clusters of conch shells kicks an evening off in laid-back style. The restaurant is overseen by creative chef Cindy Hutson and her partner Delius Shirley, and menus revolve around Caribbean-inspired dishes that include the delicious local seafood: daily fish ceviches (market price) with citrus juices, fresh ginger and diced red and yellow peppers with a side of plantain chips and housemade guacamole was a favourite, as were lobster cobb salads ($23) and grilled-grouper sandwiches ($19) with yucca fries. A red Thai and kaffir-lime bouillabaisse ($49) with jasmine rice and spice-marinated, roasted West Indian chicken ($33) with a Jamaican kick were also standouts. Freshly made sorbets and warm chocolate beignets made for ideal endings to a meal there on more than one occasion.
Truth be told, I was hard-pressed to eat elsewhere during my stay.
Giambattista Valli talks personal taste: Part One
Giambattista Valli is best known for glamorous gowns that combine intricate embroidery and sharp, modern tailoring
Giambattista Valli is best known for glamorous gowns that combine intricate embroidery and sharp, modern tailoring
My personal style signifier is wearing black from head to toe – my uniform consists of black trousers by APC or Saint Laurent, an American Apparel T-shirt or Commes des Garçons dress shirt and a cashmere sweater – and either my strand of pearls that are a good-luck charm, or a necklace with a Georgian cross that was a gift from my friend Lee Radziwill. American Apparel, www.americanapparel.net. APC, www.apc.fr. Commes des Garçons, www.comme-des-garcons.com. Saint Laurent, www.ysl.com.
The last thing I bought and loved was a hand-held portable LG projector for screening movies on the go. I work non‑stop and watching films is my one escapist pleasure. LG PB60G projector, from about £350; www.lg.com.
Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet eau de toilette, £85 for 100ml
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a holiday. I’d like to go back to the Aman hotel in Venice, which is in an exquisitely restored palazzo overlooking the Grand Canal. The rooms are beautiful and the gardens an oasis of calm, but it’s the warm welcome and service that make this place so special and restorative. Palazzo Papadopoli, Calle Tiepolo 1364, 30125 Venice (+39041-270 7333; www.amanresorts.com).
The last music I downloaded was the soundtrack to the Wim Wenders film Pina, but I am open to all kinds of music. I tend to favour funk to wake me up or when I exercise, although I also love classical music. I enjoy listening to whatever moves my soul – or my body – at a particular moment in time.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Da Adolfo in Positano. It is essentially a little cave on the beach, and I ate the most delicious mozzarella on lemon leaves and linguine with tomatoes and local lobster. The atmosphere in summer is magical and I can still taste the spectacular food. Via Laurito 40, 84017 Positano (+39089-875 022; www.daadolfo.com).
The books on my bedside table are actually in a stack next to my bed, because I like a very austere room without much furniture. Books are my biggest pleasure and I always have at least three on the go. Currently that’s A Cloudy Day in Babylon by Margaret Doody, The Red Book by CG Jung and The Old Garden by South Korean novelist Hwang Sok-Yong.
His hand‑held LG projector, from about £350 | Image: Lea Crespi
In my fridge you’ll always find Chateldon mineral water and Shu Uemura Depsea Hydrability masks. I never cook or eat at home, but I like to have these cooling, soothing fabric masks on hand – they work wonders after a late night. Chateldon, www.chateldon.tm.fr. Shu Uemura, £42 for six; www.shuuemura.co.uk.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a trip for four close friends to the Trianon Palace in Versailles, a lovely, secluded hotel. We went for walks around a scenic lake, enjoyed delicious dinners that lasted for hours and slept very well. Boulevard de la Reine 1, 78000 Versailles (+331-3084 5000; www.trianonpalace.com).
Valli’s good-luck pearls | Image: Lea Crespi
And the best one I’ve received recently was a pearl and ruby necklace from a friend who is like a sister to me. She bought it at auction, and it’s the kind of big jewellery I think suits me best. It was a total surprise, which makes it even more special.
The beauty staple I’m never without is my Blenheim Bouquet eau de toilette from Penhaligon’s, which I have worn every day and night for the past 20-plus years. It smells fresh and healthy and puts me in a good mood. £85 for 100ml; www.penhaligons.com.
Al Tarfa Desert Sanctuary Lodge & Spa, Egypt
The site that inspires me is Al Tarfa Lodge in the middle of the Egyptian desert. This sanctuary in the southwestern part of the country is the perfect place to clear the mind. Al Mansura, Dakhla Oasis, New Valley (+2010-0100 1109; www.altarfa.net).
My favourite websites are CNN and AstrologyZone for Susan Miller’s horoscopes, but I tend to use apps more than the web. WeChat is one of my favourites for connecting with friends in Asia and CrossProcess is a fun one that lets you apply colours and filters to photographs. www.astrologyzone.com. www.cnn.com. CrossProcess, www.apple.com/itunes. www.wechat.com.
Giambattista Valli talks personal taste: Part Two
The designer concludes his list of likes with antique kimono fabrics in Tokyo and singing monks in Laos
The designer concludes his list of likes with antique kimono fabrics in Tokyo and singing monks in Laos
Giambattista Valli in his Paris studio | Image: Lea Crespi
My style icon isPablo Picasso, because he was always so full of life and creativity. No one ever thought of him as old; even in a striped T-shirt on the beach he looked like an emperor. And also Maharajah Yeshwant Rao Holkar II, an early-20th-century figure who wore simply tailored white shirts with very bold diamond necklaces. I love big jewellery on men and whenever I wear a tuxedo I pair it with a necklace inspired by this elegant man.
An object I would never part with is my black Cutler and Gross sunglasses. I wear them every morning – even when the skies are grey. £310; www.cutlerandgross.com.
Pablo Picasso | Image: Gjon Mili/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Luang Prabang in Laos. I rented a villa with a group of friends in an incredible private sanctuary on the Mekong Estate. We watched the elephants drinking from the river at dawn and I think it might be the most sublime, peaceful place I have ever been. www.mekongestate.com.
And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is the memory of the singing monks in Luang Prabang. They collect alms each morning at dawn and their soothing voices are a constant reminder of that special trip.
An indulgence I would never forego is buying books. I keep them all, and my apartment in Paris looks like a library.
The last things I added to my wardrobe were some Nike trainers. I bought two pairs – one red and one royal blue – at the cool multibrand store Excelsior in Milan. £140; www.nike.com. Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20100 Milan (+3902-7630 7301; www.excelsiormilano.com).
Valli’s Cutler and Gross sunglasses, £310 | Image: Lea Crespi
If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is Istanbul, which to me is the most exciting place in the world. I love its combination of European and Asian cultures and find the views of the Bosphorus, the delicious food, the Turkish baths, the dancing, the Grand Bazaar, the rich coffee – everything – inspiring. I would never tire of living there. The Four Seasons Hotel at Sultanahmet, in the heart of the old city, would be a lovely place to call home and I particularly adore Kizkulesi, an amazing restaurant in a small tower in the middle of the strait off the Asiatic shore. The Four Seasons Hotel, Tevkifhane Sokak 1, 34110 Sultanahmet-Eminönü (+90212-402 3000; www.fourseasons.com). Kizkulesi, Üsküdar Salacak Mevkii, 34668 Üsküdar (+90216-342 4747; www.kizkulesi.com.tr).
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is the Cuban-born Félix González-Torres, whose footprints-in-sand photographs I love. But I couldn’t just collect the work of one artist; I like diversity and would want a wide range of pieces by Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Mario Schifano and some ceramics by Lucio Fontana.
The Comme des Garçons store in Aoyama, Tokyo
Among the people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing is David Mallet for haircuts in his beautiful salon that feels more like an apartment. He is a former fashion-show stylist who I’ve known for years, so he knows exactly what I like. Deepu Yogi, who comes to my home for pranamaya yoga sessions, helps to keep me in balance, and the facials at Biologique Recherche are wonderfully hydrating and relaxing. Biologique Recherche, Avenue des Champs-Elysées 32, 75008 Paris (+331-4118 9684; www.biologique-recherche.com). David Mallet, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 14, 75002 Paris (+331-4020 0023; www.david-mallett.com). Deepu Yogi, +336-7937 0540.
My favourite room in my house is the master bathroom, because it has beautiful light and views of the garden. It’s a peaceful space with a fireplace, English fixtures, pale-blue Farrow & Ball walls and lots of neutral-coloured stone.
The Four Seasons Hotel, Sultanahmet, Istanbul | Image: Paul Thuysbaert
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Aoyama in Tokyo, because it is so eclectic and full of energy. The Comme des Garçons store is amazing, not just because of the clothes but because the shop assistants are all so brilliant and entertaining. I also enjoy wandering through Isetan, a unique department store with an incredible food hall; shopping for antique kimono fabrics – not at any shop in particular; and picking up housewares and knick-knackery at Tokyu Hands in Shibuya. Comme des Garçons, 5-2-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-Ku 107-0062 (+813-3406 3951; www.comme-des-garcons.com). Isetan, 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku 160-0022 (+813-3225 2514; www.isetan.co.jp). Tokyu Hands, 12-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya 150-0042 (+813-5489 5111; www.tokyu-hands.co.jp).
If I weren’t doing what I do,I would be a psychologist. I feel I play this role every day anyway, so I think I’d be a natural. People fascinate me.
Checking Into London's New Hotels
LONDON – There are hotel towns and then there are hotel towns, and London is at the top of my list as the city that gets the hospitality thing just right. From crisp linens and piping hot breakfasts to the kindest, most capable staff, London hotels set the bar high. And while they've traditionally been a tad fusty (think leaky — but charming! — showers and plenty of overstuffed chintz chairs), they've also provided top-notch service and hefty doses of old world charm.
The new entrants into the competitive London hotels scene may be are all over the map stylistically, from baroque charm to state-of-the-art everything, but they still retain that common theme of excellence. By the way, we're taking liberties with how we define "new," as some may be a year or two old by now. But all are certainly boutiques.
Photo: Courtesy of Ace Hotel London
Ace Hotel London
100 Shoreditch High St., Shoreditch; +44-20-7613-9800
Specs: Everything is cooler in Shoreditch, and that includes the hotels. The latest addition to the East End is über cool, like the original Ace outposts in Portland, Seattle, and New York. If your preferred style is grown-up grunge, The Ace makes for a great jumping off point to the city, local galleries, and the incredible local restaurant scene, which includes The Clove Club and Hawksmoor.
Pluses: The lobby scene is vibrant and buzzing with the energy that comes from a fashion-forward, tech, and design-minded clientele. The staff are laid-back and friendly, clad in John Smedley sweaters and Converse trainers. As one might expect from a Pacific Northwest-based company, there is an excellent cafe serving Square Mile Coffee Roasters' best and a juice bar. The happening, in-house restaurant, Hoi Polloi, serves the kind of delicious burgers, inventive sandwiches, and cakes and fancies you actually want to eat at midnight. But the biggest sell is the price point: Rooms are reasonable by London standards. The whole happy-hipster vibe just clicks. Great value for money.
Minuses: Rooms are a bit minimalist (not in a chic, white way) and feel a bit like you're staying in a friend's first flat. Patchwork quilts (albeit by a French design firm), industrial plastic crates, and a slightly gloomy palette (no one needs grey paint in London) add to a slightly depressing effect. The hotel nails the amenities to the wall (refillable jars, all very sustainable, are not for the taking), which lends a gym-like feel to the bathing experience.
Unique Selling Point: Bespoke bicycles are on offer and locally sourced minibars feature killer crisps and crazy things like Pot Noodles that you'd never buy for yourself. The energy at Ace is invigorating, as is knowing that at any moment someone might just bust out a Hacky Sack.
Rates: Standard Double rooms start at $205 per night. Click here for reservations.
The courtyard and Manor House living room. Photos: Courtesy of Rosewood London
Rosewood London
252 High Holborn, Holborn; +44-20-7781-8888
Specs: This 1914 Edwardian Belle Epoque gem in a former insurance company office building has had a $130-million makeover, and it shows to spectacular effect. There are soaring domes, a grand Pavonazzo marble staircase that rises up seven stories to a massive cupola, and Premier Suites grand enough to host a sizable wedding party.
Pluses: The courtyard entrance feels like some sort of Parisian sanctuary. The lobby is filled with books and interesting art (even fancy gents nod off on the sofas). The sumptuous room details (minibars stocked with select Scotches, N'espresso machines, favorable bathroom lighting) add to the overall luxe effect. Incredibly high ceilings, a vibrant lobby bar, the deliciously stocked Delicatessen that opens onto the High Street, and great fitness facilities (still not the norm in the U.K.) make Rosewood worth the detour.
Minuses: The Holborn location is a bit dodgy, although the cheerful concierge spun it as "where the City meets the West End." This is a Mayfair hotel experience nowhere near Mayfair, so you'll need to familiarize yourself with the Piccadily line or enlist one of the hotel's Jaguars-for-hire to get around in style.
Unique Selling Point: The Grand Manor House Wing is accessed via private entrance, features six bedrooms and more than 6,000 square feet of sitting space — not to mention its own postcode (literally). Another differentiatator: General manager Michael Bonsor hails from Claridge's, so no detail is overlooked.
Rates: Premier King rooms start at $690 per night. Click here for reservations.
A loft suite and Berner's Tavern. Photos: Nikolas Koenig / The London Edition
The London Edition
10 Berners St., Fitzrovia; +44-20-7781-0000
Specs: The impressive Fitzrovia spot is a collaboration between Marriot and perennially hip hotelier, Ian Schrager. (Read Fathom's interview with Ian.) I went in a hater (I'm ashamed to admit it), but this space — with its soaring and meticulously restored ceilings, walnut-clad rooms, and staff from Claridge's and The Sanderson — is firing on all cylinders. Bonus: Le Labo amenities abound.
Pluses: The "lifestyle hotel" is a great respite, especially for business travelers who need connectivity and proximity to central London. The rooms may have a spare aesthetic, but the public spaces (by hot designers Yabu Pushelberg) are swaddled in warm velvet and soft leather, complete with a roaring fire and billiards table. Another big plus is the location: The Edition is a mash-up of five Georgian townhouses in a tree-lined area.
Minuses: Although it's been primped and boutique'd, there's something — be it ever so slight — that is hard to shake off about the mass Marriott brand, especially for indie-all-the-way travelers. It is also a tad slick, but if nightclubs and dark, atmospheric bars are your thing, then you have truly arrived.
Unique Selling Point: Food and beverage. There are multiple bars including the expansive, humming Lobby Bar, as well as Punch Room, a fun, reservations-only grotto that serves drinks from cauldrons. This is not your grandfather's fumoir. Stunning, art-filled restaurant Berners Tavern is the creation of Michelin-starred Jason Atherton and features best-of-British basics like prawns and dressed crab and a proper Sunday roast lunch.
Rates: Deluxe rooms start at $615 per night. Click here for reservations.
A junior suite and Stables Bar. Photos: Courtesy of The Milestone Hotel
The Milestone Hotel
1 Kensington Court, Kensington; +44-20-7917-1000
Specs: Location, location, location! This Kensington bolthole wins for its proximity to Kensington Gardens (many rooms overlook the park and into the Royal Apartments), the Ken High Street tube station, and Whole Foods down the street (where you'll stock the mini bar).
Pluses: The regal, 19th-century Milestone — with its red brick façade and traditional flower boxes — feels almost like a home stay. You'll be warmly greeted by name upon every return, sometimes with a glass of Champagne. It's quintessential Olde England, with plenty of chintz, dark red and green fabrics, and sporting art on the walls. But the bathrooms are modern, the rooms are stocked with international fashion and design magazines, and multiple ports and sockets make working a breeze.
The food is surprisingly good. Cozy Stables Bar (which looks like something straight out of a Ralph Lauren ad) serves excellent club sandwiches at all hours. The more formal Cheneston's is a magnet for the Sunday lunch crowd. And if you don’t fancy traditional Brit fare, the best Lebanese food (Randa) and culinary mecca Clarke's are just around the corner.
Minuses: Rooms are pricey for the square footage, and you won't find a minimalist aesthetic but an exuberant one. Just revel in what English hotels do best — provide excellent, unfailingly polite service, as well as crisp bed linens and warm bath towels. The most nitpicky minus ever: they need new rubbish bins in the bathrooms. The current models are the size of thimbles and overflow frequently. If that's the worst complaint, then this member of the Red Carnation Hotel chain is doing something right.
USP: The small resistance pool in the gym spa is rare for a hotel in this area, and provides a refreshing escape on hot summer days, particularly for kids. No request is too strange: If something needs to be messengered, they'll send their own person for no more than the cost of the taxi ride. Another bonus are the six two-bedroom apartments with kitchenettes for families or extended stays. Apartment 6 (The Rooftop) has an outdoor terrace and a washer/dryer.
Posada Puerto Bemberg: jungle chic in Argentina
A remote hideaway from which to explore lesser-known waterfalls and literally switch off
A remote hideaway from which to explore lesser-known waterfalls and literally switch off
Off the beaten track – quite literally – in the jungle near the famed waterfalls of Iguazú in Argentina, you’ll find the 14-room-and-suite property Posada Puerto Bemberg. Situated in the remote Province of Misiones at the confluence of the Paraná and Iguazú rivers, the Posada offers a rewarding spot from which to explore the area’s lesser-known waterfalls – particularly the stunning Saltos del Moconá, oft overlooked in favour of the Devil’s Throat gorge in nearby Iguazú National Park.
Originally built in the 1940s as a stopping point en route for the dramatic falls that could only be accessed via the Paraná River below, Posada Puerto Bemberg (first and second pictures) has been reborn as a rustic-chic guesthouse with plenty of local colour. The original feel has been preserved – and this starts with the approach down a stone path.
No sooner had I walked over the threshold than a knowledgeable conservationist appeared by my side and began talking through the day’s myriad options: guided hikes along the property’s thickly forested trails, bike riding, visits to neighbouring yerba-mate and tea plantations and bird watching were only the initial few. I decided to ease into the subtropical experience with a swim in the hotel’s secluded sandstone pool (third picture), surrounded by atmospheric monkey puzzle trees and wild toucans.
The rooms in this colonial-style villa are on the sparse side but feature high ceilings, locally carved furnishings and spacious beds with brightly coloured llama quilts. Air conditioning made my room a sanctuary during my sweltering stay, and no television and minibar, and spotty WiFi and mobile coverage meant that my room was an excellent place for switching off, while the deep tub was a glorious way to unwind at day’s end.
One of the real highlights here are the meals (lucky, as there is nowhere else to venture to, the hotel is so remote), which are served in the great living room that is the hub of the hotel. Guests – there were about 10 during my recent visit – come here to check email, sip a cocktail, play games (Pictionary was popular during my stay) and read one of the library’s 2,500 titles, many of which are focused on the local flora and fauna. Our group enjoyed leisurely feasts of excellent Argentine steak with papas fritas and salads made with vegetables from the surrounding organic gardens. The extensive cave includes over 1,600 bottles of wine, including local Argentinean Malbecs that pair well with chef Ruperto Ocampo’s daily changing, meaty menus.
After leaving the Posada Puerto Bemberg’s 1,000 acres to explore other highlights of the area, I felt as if I’d had it all right there on the property: dramatic falls for swimming, butterflies in vibrant shades of purple and gold, hummingbirds and delicious cuisine. There is even a picturesque chapel – circa 1930 – on the premises that affords dramatic views of the river and Paraguay in the distance. It’s a marvel of a jungle microcosm that I wouldn’t have missed for the world.
Fundadores Bemberg, N3370 Puerto Libertad, Misiones Province, Argentina (+54375-749 6500; www.puertobemberg.com).
Robert Eddy: model-yacht maker extraordinaire
Bespoke commissions with intricate fittings and ultra-precise detailing
Bespoke commissions with intricate fittings and ultra-precise detailing
Both sailors and naval-history lovers flock to Robert Eddy – a model-maker based in Camden, Maine – to create versions of their favourite yachts, schooners and even simple skiffs. Eddy is the consummate artist: part draftsman, part sculptor and also a talented jeweller by training, whose precise hand creates the intricate fittings that set his custom boats apart.
Commissioning an Eddy model is a straightforward but lengthy process, with most projects requiring one to two years of work and up to 4,000 man-hours to complete. After a site visit to the owner’s yacht or sailboat (where Eddy photographs, films and takes precise measurements to complement original plans), he works closely with the boat’s architect and interior designers to create a perfectly scaled version using only the finest, sturdiest materials that will stand the test of time. It is his sensitivity to a client’s wishes – his roster of business titans includes Tom Perkins, founder of Silicon Valley venture-capital powerhouse Kleiner Perkins Caufield Byers, Jim Clark, founder of Netscape, and Lands’ End founder, Gary Comer – that keeps his detailed projects so much in demand.
Working with partner Reuben Brown, Eddy uses cutting-edge technology – CAD graphics, 2D laser-cutting and 3D printing of parts for lost-wax casting – to mould and sculpt topsides and hulls from hardwoods such as mahogany. The boats’ undersides are often carved from basswood sourced from linden trees and models are finished with durable AwlGrip marine paints. Deck details, such as diamond-studded winches (an Eddy signature), anchors, cleats and stanchions, are made using a wide array of precious metals, with white gold the material of choice for mimicking stainless steel, and green gold employed to simulate weathered-bronze propellers. No detail is overlooked and Eddy’s commissions – most of which measure 18-58in in length and range in price from $60,000 to upwards of $200,000 – also include such precise details as compasses and complicated nautical charts.
Recent projects have included the Perini Navi modern clipper yacht Maltese Falcon (second picture); Windcrest (third picture), a 98ft Fontaine-designed ketch; the Herreshoff schooner, Mariette; and Kalevala, a custom Swan 60 with an extended transom. Other yacht miniature models, such as the 154ft ketch Scheherazade, the Andromeda la Dea and Atlantide (first picture), are examples of the artist’s finest and most complex work, with the latter taking more than 5,500 hours to execute.
In addition to handcrafting each replica, Eddy also works with a master cabinetmaker to select woods, finishes and inlays before collaborating on a bespoke display case for each of his objets d’art. Finished models, cases and, in some instances, platform tables, are then sent via an art handler anywhere in the world, with Eddy personally overseeing each installation.
“My real challenge is reducing huge yachts to a scale that makes every detail viewable,” explains Eddy. “If you do things too small, they just become cute objects – not sculptures that celebrate maritime history. My clients want conversation pieces that connect them to their boats and their passion for the sea.”
+1207-236 6579; www.yachtmodels.com.
Fueguia 1833: a beguiling Buenos Aires perfumery
This fragranced atelier makes its mark with uniquely South American scents
This fragranced atelier makes its mark with uniquely South American scents
A recent trip to Buenos Aires yielded many treasures: a stay at boutique bolthole Hub Porteño in the chic Recoleta area; a fondness for empanadas; and the discovery of niche perfumery and candle atelier Fueguia 1833. I wandered into this lovely laboratory, just steps from my hotel door, in a jet-lagged haze and was overwhelmed by a profusion of South American scents.
Founded in 2010 by Julian Bedel and Ama Amoedo, this dark, decidedly sexy boutique was a labour of love – no detail or finish has been rushed or overlooked. Sleek recycled-glass jars dominate the room, and some 50-plus varieties create a quasi art installation. Low lighting, maps of Patagonia and simple wooden packaging add to the sumptuous elegance.
Perfumes are grouped into seven collections, including Destinos, Personajes and Fábula Fauna, but bespoke fragrances are also a key ingredient at Fueguia. All of Bedel’s creations incorporate flora and fauna from Patagonia, which he is happy to alter (or create anew) to suit a client’s wishes.
Castillos is just one scent in the Destinos collection and it masterfully mixes notes of jasmine, tuberose and the Argentinean favourite, mate, while Pampa Húmeda is meant to evoke the “green, clean” feel that occurs after a good downpour and incorporates hints of rosemary and eucalyptus. Other highlights include Darwin and Humboldt – from the citrusy Personajes range – as well as Jacarandá, a floral concoction with undertones of bergamot and cedar moss. Almost as compelling as the fragrances are the names – reflecting global travel, explorers and plant species. Fragrances are available in 30ml absoluto (£106), 30ml agua de perfume (£58) and 100ml perfume (£158), as well as in 15ml roll-on (£55), and each comes in a beautiful handmade wooden box (second picture).
Vegetable-based candles (third picture) are no also-rans and I purchased the Amalia Primavera (£78) – with its hints of floral ambergris and jasmine – although spicier versions, including the Noel with clove and grapefruit, also enticed.
The final element of the shop that I loved was its commitment to the environment and social programmes in South America. Forty-two per cent of the product price of all perfumes, candles and room fragrances is donated to Help Argentina, an organisation dedicated to funding educational projects throughout the country. Such social consciousness makes these scents all the sweeter.
Rodin’s moisture-rich Olio Lusso
Eleven essential oils in one small-batch skin salvation
Eleven essential oils in one small-batch skin salvation
As we emerged at last from winter, my skin was doing little skips. Thanks to the combined effects of an especially harsh New York cold patch and perhaps a little too much holiday sun (I know better, but it’s that wonderful vitamin D), my complexion has been left dull and rather lizard-like. But what’s got me through it is a recommendation from a clued-up-on-beauty friend: Rodin’s Olio Lusso (£97 for 30ml, pictured), aka “luxury oil”. This elegant moisturising serum is made from 11 essential oils sourced from plants and botanicals, with not an acid, perfume or chemical preservative in sight.
Developed by former fashion editor and stylist Linda Rodin, Olio Lusso face oil has garnered an ardent following since its launch five years ago. First mixed and bottled in Rodin’s Chelsea flat, it is now produced in larger batches in a boutique New Jersey factory to keep up with client demand.
There are many elixirs on the market that claim to repair dry, damaged skin but they often clog my pores with their thick emollients, or they sting because of some chemical ingredient. By contrast, I found Olio Lusso to be instantly soothing: its combination of jasmine, calendula flower, rosehip and sweet-almond oils is naturally calming.
Of the other ingredients, one of the most unusual – and certainly most powerful – is neroli, an essential oil that is packed with vitamin C and helps to promote elasticity. Meanwhile, the fatty acids found in evening primrose oil, the anti-inflammatory properties of the Scandinavian arnica plant and the vitamins A and D found in apricot-seed oil, each make my weary visage perk up and say, “Thank you”.
Christian Liaigre talks personal taste: Part One
Christian Liaigre has designed beautifully spare interiors and furniture for Karl Lagerfeld and Larry Gagosian, as well as for restaurants and hotels, including The Mercer in New York and Hôtel Costes in Paris
Christian Liaigre has designed beautifully spare interiors and furniture for Karl Lagerfeld and Larry Gagosian, as well as for restaurants and hotels, including The Mercer in New York and Hôtel Costes in Paris
My personal style signifier is a pair of handmade tortoiseshell glasses that I designed for myself and wear every day. I have worn this same style for the past 20 years; I like the simple shape and natural finish. I have them made at the Maison Bonnet workshop in Paris. 5 Rue des Petits Champs, Paris 75001 (+331-4296 4635; www.maisonbonnet.com).
The last thing I bought and loved was a work of art by the French painter and sculptor Richard Texier. It is a colourful mixed-media picture of the mineral kingdom done with the aid of a computer. I bought it directly from the artist, whose work I admire immensely. www.richardtexier.com.
The sea-view terrace at Christian Liaigre’s house on St Barths | Image: Mark Seelen
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a Land Rover Defender, so that I can take my son to our country home on Ile de Ré or to the horse country near La Rochelle at weekends. I like this car for both its functionality and aesthetics; I have my eye on a beautiful metallised-brown model. www.landrover.com.
A recent “find” is the restaurant Le Relais Louis XIII in Paris. It feels provincial and intimate, much like dining at the home of a country doctor. My friend, the photographer Peter Lindbergh, took me there and I particularly love the lobster ravioli and the chef’s delicious organic vegetables. 8 Rue des Grands Augustins, Paris 75006 (+331-4326 7596; www.relaislouis13.fr).
The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a double-cashmere sports jacket by Berluti. It is a deep-green-khaki colour with a yellow lining and it is simple, warm and beautifully made. 14 Rue de Sèvres, Paris 75007 (+331-4048 2860; www.berluti.com).
The last music I downloaded was Alchemya by flamenco guitarist Juan Carmona, Niño de Almadén’s Maestros del Cante Flamenco and Pepe Martínez’s The Spanish Guitar, Flamenco Masters. Clearly I love Spanish music.
An object I would never part with is the penknife I carry with me everywhere. It is very reassuring to have one in my pocket, as I can always cut a flower or sharpen a pencil. Mine is made from tortoiseshell and silver and comes from the small town of Nogent in northeastern France.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the Vallespir region of the Pyrénées in northern Catalonia. It is a wonderful, unspoiled landscape full of green valleys covered with cork oak trees. Juan Gris and Picasso lived in nearby Céret and there are many interesting Roman thermal baths throughout the beautiful countryside.
A Land Rover Defender 110, from £23,095
The site that inspires me is the sea – particularly the view of it from my homes in St Barths and Ile de Ré. Nothing compares to the iodine-packed Atlantic Ocean; the colours and light are so energising.
The best gift I’ve received recently was a very refined, 2m-long calligraphy print by the South Korean artist Suh Se-ok. I had tea with him and this work was a present from the Samsung family to thank me for a project I did for them in South Korea. It now hangs in a special place over the central staircase in my home.
Ligne St Barth Deep Sea Cream, €1,350 for 40ml
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a sculpted, dark-wood Basque walking stick called a makila. The top part has a hand-grip that can be pulled off, revealing a hidden blade that was traditionally used as a defence against wolves. I keep it in my bedroom to remind me of a family trip to the Pyrénées.
The grooming staple I’m never without is Deep Sea Cream by Ligne St Barth. It is incredibly moisturising and smells great. €1,350 for 40ml in a limited-edition Murano-glass flacon (refill €590); www.lignestbarth.com.
My favourite websites are almost non-existent. I tend not to use the web much, but when I do it is the Financial Times and Le Figaro for news, and Moma PS1 for looking at contemporary art. www.ft.com; www.lefigaro.fr; www.momaps1.org.
Christian Liaigre talks personal taste: Part Two
The designer concludes his list of likes with vitamins from Laboratoire Lescuyer, London and a Basque pâté terrine
The designer concludes his list of likes with vitamins from Laboratoire Lescuyer, London and a Basque pâté terrine
Christian Liaigre at his home in Paris | Image: Lea Crespi
My style icon is the painter Cy Twombly. He was a wise and elegant gentleman who seamlessly mixed classical sculpture with very modern pieces of art. Both his work and personal style inspire me because of their sophisticated simplicity.
Cy Twombly | Image: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images
My favourite room in my house is the sitting room because of its authentic 18th-century decorative wood panelling and gilding. Vintage chandeliers from the Porte de Clignancourt flea market are juxtaposed with contemporary photographs and deer antlers from La Rochelle. This room is the perfect backdrop for the modern furniture I designed for the space.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Ya Lamai, a Thai restaurant in the 3rd arrondissement. The owner, Rose, is a very particular person and a wonderful cook. I had a delicious dessert called tako, a unique combination of coconut and mung-bean flour. 16 Rue du Petit Thouars, Paris 75003 (+331-8356 5500; www.yalamai.com).
The books on my bedside table are Plague and Cholera, a story about the second world war by Patrick Deville; Repulse Bay by Olivier Lebé; and Adventures on the Wine Route by Kermit Lynch, which recounts the author’s experiences across Bordeaux and the Loire and Rhône valleys.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a small piece of whalebone to my son, Léonard. I gave it to him as a souvenir of our holiday in St Barths. Whales often pass through the warm waters there and this carved keepsake fits perfectly in the palm of his six-year-old hand.
In my fridge you’ll always find a Basque pâté terrine with red chilli peppers and a Bordeaux red wine that I like to serve to my friends as an apéritif. You will also find milk, cheese and mangoes, which my son currently loves. La Grande Epicerie de Paris, Le Bon Marché, 38 Rue de Sèvres, Paris 75007 (+331-4439 8100; www.lagrandeepicerie.com).
An indulgence I would never forego is a good, relaxing massage. In Paris, I go to the spa at the Hôtel Costes and when I am in St Barths I like the outdoor treatments at Le Sereno. This is a little time just for me. Hôtel Costes, 239-241 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 75001 (+331-4244 5000; www.hotelcostes.com). Le Sereno, Anse Maréchal, Saint Barthélemy 97133 (+335-9029 8300; www.lesereno.com).
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is the British painter Peter Doig. He lives and works in the Caribbean and his pictures illustrate a style of life on the edge of fantasy. His paintings also show that we can have multiple perspectives on the same thing. I think he is a modern Gauguin.
St James’s Park, London | Image: Getty Images/Lonely Planet Images
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the area where I live in the 7th arrondissement. I moved there 35 years ago because it is such a calm and beautiful part of Paris. We are surrounded by gardens and small mansions and we’re just 200m from Saint-Germain-des-Près and the Ecole des Beaux-Arts. I like the mix of antique shops, art galleries, wonderful cheese shops, such as Barthélemy, the book store La Hune and pastry and cake shops, including Pierre Hermé and Pâtisserie des Rêves. I also love Le Bon Marché for all sorts of food and household items – it’s the French equivalent of Harrods. This neighbourhood has the unique Rive Gauche spirit that is relaxed and sophisticated at the same time. Barthélemy, 51 Rue de Grenelle (+331-4548 5675). La Hune, 170 Boulevard Saint-Germain (+331-4548 3585). Le Bon Marché, 24 Rue de Sèvres (+331-4439 8000; www.lebonmarche.com). L’Ecole des Beaux-Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte (+331-4703 5000; www.beauxartsparis.com). Pâtisserie des Rêves, 93 Rue du Bac (+331-4284 0082; www.lapatisseriedesreves.com). Pierre Hermé, 72 Rue Bonaparte (+331-4354 4477; www.pierreherme.com).
The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are the research team at Laboratoire Lescuyer in Aytré in southwestern France. They create the best mixtures of natural vitamins and minerals that help me stay energised and in good health. All their products are based on seaweed, minerals and a variety of herbs (+335-4656 3048; www.laboratoire-lescuyer.com).
Pierre Hermé, Paris | Image: Pierre Hermé Paris
If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is London. I love the creativity and energy of the people. I also find the British to be polite and cheerful and their city has the most beautiful parks in Europe, including Regent’s Park and St James’s Park. I’d very much like to live in Mayfair, especially in the red brick houses on Mount Street and in the surrounding area. I’d frequent Scott’s, The Arts Club, and 5 Hertford Street – just a few of my favourite places that all offer delicious food and a lively scene. 5 Hertford Street, 2-5 Hertford Street (020-7408 2100; www.5hertfordstreet.co.uk). The Arts Club, 40 Dover Street (020-7499 8581; www.theartsclub.co.uk). Scott’s, 20 Mount Street (020-7495 7309; www.scotts-restaurant.com).
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an artist, which is very close to being a decorator. I love to paint, particularly with oils.
Follain: a natural-beauty boutique in Boston
Eco chic for face, body and hair
Eco chic for face, body and hair
When it comes to beauty products, I am by no means a devout user of environmentally friendly, ethically sourced products that are free from preservatives, colours and other unsavoury substances. I simply want the creams, cleansers and cosmetics that work most effectively, and if they happen to be natural, well then, so much the better. But I recently found a boutique – in Boston – that offers the perfect combination of good-for-environment brands and good-for-you results.
Follain – a Gaelic word meaning “healthy, wholesome and sound” – was opened last summer by skincare enthusiast Tara Foley, on a tree-lined street in Boston’s South End. The area is home to interesting shops, but her light-filled beauty emporium really stands out for its carefully curated selection of some 30-plus American-made natural and organic beauty products. In addition to the greatest hits of “clean” care, the space has been designed – using spare white marble and tile finishes throughout – to encourage experimentation with the products. An enormous double-basin sink that looks straight out of Provence is the centrepiece of one room, and thick, stone countertops invite customers to gather and learn about the latest toners and scrubs.
“We encourage our customers to select the best products for their skin type, rather than sticking with a certain brand,” says Foley. My re-education started with my face, and I was introduced to such Follain bestsellers as Amber Blue’s Anti-Aging Serum ($56), a Shamanuti Seaweed Toner ($28) and a thick Intensive Repair Balm by Tammy Fender ($130) that worked immediate wonders on my cracked, winter-weary hands.
Until recently, many of Follain’s products were only available in spas – RICA’s Body Butter ($36) and Soapwalla’s Body Oil ($28) to name two – and while I couldn’t get over the hurdle of all-natural deodorant (Soapwalla’s version, $14, is meant to be terrific), Foley almost convinced me, so fervent is her belief in these hand-selected goods. I walked away from my visit with bottles of Rahua’s Classic shampoo ($32) and conditioner ($34) and each provided an ever so lightly scented, silky finish that has proved to work just as well for my husband’s hair as my own thick, colour-treated mane.
Cosmetics are the hardest switch of all – I tend to be brand loyal out of sheer laziness – but Ilia’s Lip Conditioner ($24) with just a hint of colour and RMS Beauty’s Living Luminizer ($38)were all particularly tempting.In addition to all of this product goodness, Follain embraces the environment by offering select products (liquid hand and body soaps, for example) that are available for refill (second picture), in an effort to cut down on the immense plastic waste generated by bottles.
For those seeking artisanal products sans synthetic chemicals, Follain is a cheerful one-stop shop – whether in person or online.
Oyyo: cotton dhurries with contemporary cool
An online cache of handwoven Indian rugs with serious Scandi panache
An online cache of handwoven Indian rugs with serious Scandi panache
Simple yet bold prints and patterns are the hallmark of Oyyo, a Stockholm-based design studio that produces beautiful cotton dhurries for its eponymous e-shop. And while the carpets are handcrafted in India using centuries-old techniques and locally sourced vegetable dyes, each has a thoroughly modern sensibility that is expressed through contemporary hues and minimalist designs.
Founded in 2011 by Lina Zedig and Marcus Ahrén, Oyyo’s graphic rugs are handwoven near Jodhpur, and as such, are subject to slight variations in size (be prepared for 2cm to 5cm differences from the dimensions ordered) and colour (due to the plant dyes that can fade over time). In short, each dhurrie is a work of art – so slight imperfections are to be expected and even celebrated.
The website features a tightly edited selection of rugs with ethereal names such as Never Ending Story, Labyrinth and Noto, which have been photographed in dramatic desert settings, and are also shown in close up so that the interested buyer can examine details – knots, edging, construction, finishes – that are particular to each style.
Brick (available in four sizes; €520-€1,890, first picture) recalls traditional Indian textiles, but is infused with a Scandinavian sensibility. A soft colour palette – dusty pink, light tangerine and muted cream tones – make this rug a neutral piece, while the boldly graphic Noto (second picture) features vibrant-azure and sapphire-blue tones. This style is perhaps the most eye-catching on the site and is available in five standard sizes ranging from 80cm x 140cm (€520) to 200cm x 300 cm (€2,790), but it can also be custom ordered in other dimensions.
Oyyo’s flat-weave designs are both chic and entirely practical, and each is meant for everyday use, which means they are washable, too.
Atelier Courbet: downtown design chic in NYC
An inspiringly offbeat mélange of old craftsmanship and fresh imagination
An inspiringly offbeat mélange of old craftsmanship and fresh imagination
Set in a 19th-century carriage house, Atelier Courbet, a new shop-cum-gallery in SoHo, is a paean to offbeat contemporary design made by new artisans using old-world techniques. The slightly obscure mélange – a yellow limited-edition, hand-stitched buffalo-leather bicycle ($16,500, seen in second picture), designed by the singer Pharrell Williams and crafted by Domeau and Pérès, beside art-installation-esque porcelain chalices by Andrea Branzi for Sèvres ($3,500), and a subtle yet striking grey crystal Apollo table lamp (from $1,195) by Cristallerie Royale de Saint-Louis – appears to be anything but off-putting, as was evident on my recent visit as people milled about excitedly.
Founder and creative director Melanie Courbet honed her aesthetic while collaborating with luxury brands such as LVMH, and is now tuning her attention to showcasing the fine craftsmanship of storied producers with heritage clout but modern sensibility – such as Sèvres, Puiforcat, Cristallerie Royale de Saint-Louis and centuries-old Japanese textile maker Hosoo.
One of Atelier Courbet’s most unique offerings is the upholstered leather work by Domeau & Pérès, a Parisian firm helmed by two Hermès veterans – one a master saddle maker, the other an upholsterer – who launched their own venture. Their sculptural Bouroullec desk ($13,500), designed by Erwan and Ronan Bouroullec as a tribute to Jean Prouvé’s Compas desk, pays homage to the midcentury designer’s work through solid oak and butter-soft lambskin. The playful Bumper bed (from $28,000) is a collaboration between Domeau & Pérès and designer Marc Newson, and offers a grown-up take on the traditional futon, complete with pebbled leather, and is available to order in white, sand or chocolate with a bold orange stripe.
A selection of chic games includes a chrome and camel-leather-clad Bonzini foosball table ($8,200), again made by Domeau & Pérès, and a limited-edition backgammon set by Puiforcat ($28,000), carved from Macassar ebony and sycamore, and with sterling-silver pieces. A rosewood and stainless-steel knife set ($4,600), designed by Gabriele Pezzini and Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire, looked almost too lovely to be used, while I coveted Puiforcat’s simple champagne beakers ($860 each, third picture). The shape and detailing of these vessels is meant to keep fizz at an ideal temperature, and each is engraved with a guilloche pattern that makes the liquid more effervescent.
The old world meets new at Atelier Courbet, a shop that just may be 2014’s downtown design destination.
Larry Gagosian talks personal taste: Part Two
Parisian museums, crew cuts and a JK Rowling novel round off the gallery owner’s style file
Parisian museums, crew cuts and a JK Rowling novel round off the gallery owner’s style file
Larry Gagosian at his home in Easthampton | Image: Dylan Coulter
My style icon is Gianni Agnelli. He was a dear friend and everything about the way he lived his life was incredible, from his impeccable dress sense – which often included beautiful suits paired with ties worn slightly askew or even a pair of hiking boots – and his Mediterranean yachting adventures aboard the Knut Reimer-designed Agneta to his business acumen. I aspire to his lifestyle but fall miserably short.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Athens. I was so glad to see this beautiful city come through a tumultuous time and look vibrant again. I stayed just outside the centre at the magnificent Arion Resort & Spa, where my room was just 10 feet from the sea. 40 Apollonos, Astir Palace Resort, 16671 Vouliagmeni, Athens (+3021-0890 2000; www.arionresortathens.com).
And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is a book from the Beyeler Foundation in Basel. Ernst Beyeler: A Passion for Art is a series of interviews by Christopher Mory that really illustrate this collector’s devotion to art. It was a gift from my friend [director of the Beyeler Foundation] Sam Keller, which makes it even more special. Baselstrasse 101, CH-4125 Riehen, Basel (+4161-645 9700; www.fondationbeyeler.ch).
Gianni Agnelli | Image: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images
An indulgence I would never forego is the expensive haircut I get about once a fortnight at John Frieda, across the street from my New York gallery. I could save money by walking a few blocks to a barber, but I like the hustle and bustle of a salon. Mariko keeps my very short hair in good order. 30 East 76th Street, New York, NY 10021 (+1212-879 1000; www.johnfrieda.com).
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Masa in New York. The setting and the food were fantastic and I think this is one of the best restaurants anywhere in the world. Chef Masa is a friend and he takes incredible care of everyone who dines here. His cuisine is always quite varied – he’ll have a little langoustine, a mushroom risotto, some delicious Wagyu with truffles – and it is the unexpected mix that makes eating here exciting. The sushi is also beyond spectacular. 10 Columbus Circle, New York, NY 10019 (+1212-823 9800; www.masanyc.com).
The books on my bedside table are JK Rowling’s latest, The Cuckoo’s Calling, This Town by Mark Leibovich, which is a fascinating, often funny look at the political world of Washington DC, and The Hare with Amber Eyes: A Hidden Inheritance, a memoir by British ceramicist Edmund de Waal. I tend to mix it up, so I might read a biography and then follow it up with a page-turner. I used to read Dostoyevsky and Tolstoy, but now I stick to contemporary fiction and books related to current events.
If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Paris. It’s hard to imagine living anywhere but New York, but Paris has some of the best museums in the world; I particularly love the Centre Pompidou, the Jeu de Paume and the Musée d’Orsay. I like walking everywhere – especially around the eighth arrondissement – and eating at ethnic restaurants such as Tong Yen, which has the most beautiful decor. My two favourite restaurants are Le Stresa and Le Duc and when I was awarded the French Légion d’Honneur I had a party at the former. I used to be a resident of the Ritz and look forward to seeing the renovation, but for now I enjoy staying at Le Bristol – it is an easy stroll to my gallery from there. Centre Pompidou, 19 Rue Beaubourg (+331-4478 1233; www.centrepompidou.fr). Jeu de Paume, 1 Place de la Concorde (+331-4703 1250; www.jeudepaume.org). Le Bristol, 112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (+331-5343 4300; www.lebristolparis.com). Le Duc, 243 Boulevard Raspail (+331-4320 9630). Le Stresa, 7 Rue Chambiges (+331-4723 5162; www.lestresa.com). Musée d’Orsay, 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur (+331-4049 4814; www.musee-orsay.fr).Ritz Paris, 15 Place Vendôme (+331-4316 3030; www.ritzparis.com). Tong Yen, 1 Rue Jean Mermoz (+331-4225 0423).
An object I would never part with is my BlackBerry. I use it to phone, text and email and I find it easier to type on than other devices. When dinner starts, however, I turn it off and won’t check it again until the next morning unless there is something very time-sensitive going on. Although I am particularly attached to this device, I can’t stand it when people check theirs during meals or meetings. www.blackberry.com.
The grooming staple I’m never without is my $1.69 nail-clippers from the local pharmacy. I don’t have the patience to sit still for a manicure, so I carry my own clippers wherever I go.
The Hare with Amber Eyes: A Hidden Inheritance by Edmund de Waal
My favourite room in my house is the library at my beach house. There are piles of magazines and books that I love to read, as well as a ridiculously large television. I have a similar room in each of my homes, but this one has the most relaxed feel. There are comfortable sofas and a coffee table that you can put your feet up on. The whole space feels very laid-back and contemporary.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the Upper East Side of Manhattan, near Madison Avenue. I find everything there, from pharmacy basics at Zitomer to fine furniture from Delorenzo Gallery, whose owner, Tony, happens to be a great friend. I stock up on bathing suits at Vilebrequin and visit Three Guys, the ultimate New York diner, for a casual bite. Delorenzo Gallery, 956 Madison Avenue (+1212-249 7575; www.delorenzogallery.com). Three Guys, 960 Madison Avenue (+1212-628 8108).Vilebrequin, 1007 Madison Avenue (+1212-650 0353; www.vilebrequin.com). Zitomer, 969 Madison Avenue (+1212-737 5560; www.zitomer.com).
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be unemployed. I’m thankful that I found a job that I love and I’m successful at, so I really can’t imagine doing anything else.
Larry Gagosian talks personal taste: Part One
Gallerist Larry Gagosian oversees a global art empire with 12 exhibition spaces in eight cities, including New York, London and Hong Kong
Gallerist Larry Gagosian oversees a global art empire with 12 exhibition spaces in eight cities, including New York, London and Hong Kong
Larry Gagosian at his home in Easthampton | Image: Dylan Coutler
My personal style signifier is a pair of Levi’s 501 jeans and one of the 500 or so T-shirts that I collect from wherever I go. I’m a casual guy and rarely wear a tie, so this is my uniform of choice. I also keep my hair in a crew cut for ease. I think it suits me. From £70; www.levi.com.
The last thing I bought and loved was a Wilson Pro Staff tennis racket. I’m not great at tennis, but I love it and play four or five times a week during the summer. I’m hoping this racket will improve my game. From £170; www.wilson.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a special-edition Leica M9 Titanium camera by Walter de Silva. He is a car designer and his Audi design team has reinterpreted this classic camera in titanium and given it a leather trim. It is a beautiful – and compact – collaboration, perfect for my travels. £19,800; www.leica-camera.com.
A recent “find” is Sushi Sasabune in Los Angeles. It serves A-plus omakase sushi and, while it is literally a hole in the wall, the food is just unbelievable. LA does unassuming sushi bars in shopping malls very well, but this one is above and beyond. 11917 Wilshire Boulevard, West Los Angeles (+1310-478 3596).
The last music I downloaded was John Coltrane’s My Favorite Things. I am a huge fan of jazz from the 1960s and John Coltrane and Miles Davis are hard to beat. This particular album features jazz versions of pop favourites. I also recently added two classics to my collection: Bob Dylan’s Tempest and Free Jazz: A Collective Improvisation by the great alto saxophonist Ornette Coleman.
In my fridge you’ll always find non-fat Greek yoghurt and fresh pomegranate seeds. This fruit is part of my Armenian heritage and I eat the seeds on my yoghurt every morning. You’ll also find a bottle of champagne – most likely Dom Pérignon – as well as eggs, cheese and all the staples. I have a very well-stocked fridge.
My Favorite Things by John Coltrane
The last item I added to my wardrobe was a pair of green lizard Gucci loafers. I got them in Beverly Hills and I’m trying to figure out when I’m going to wear them. I’m not sure there’s an occasion for this particular pair of shoes. From £1,130; 347 North Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (+1310-278 3451; www.gucci.com).
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Henri Rousseau. His paintings are extremely seductive and strange – his work stands apart from the rest of art history. His jungle paintings in particular are just amazing. The Beyeler Foundation has one of my favourites and the Museum of Modern Art has some great ones, too – but his work is incredibly rare and virtually impossible to get hold of. www.fondationbeyeler.ch. www.moma.org.
The rose-gold vintage Rolex Gagosian bought at Christie’s | Image: © Christie’s Images
The best gift I’ve given recently was a beautiful vintage Rolex watch to my girlfriend. This rose-gold GMT model is very rare and I bought it at auction at Christie’s. It is an oversize watch that is substantial yet elegant at the same time. www.christies.com. www.rolex.com.
And the best one I’ve received recently was a drawing that the American painter John Currin gave me for my birthday. It’s a small picture of a woman in the colours of Picasso’s Rose Period and it hangs in my bedroom in Amagansett, Long Island. www.gagosian.com/artists/john-currin.
The Dream, c1910, by Henri Rousseau | Image: Carl de Souza/AFP/Getty Images
The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Enzo and Ken, the barbers at The Dorchester. I travel so frequently that I am reliant on haircutters away from New York to keep my crew cut in shape. Park Lane, London W1 (020-7499 0759; www.thedorchester.com).
The site that inspires me is the ocean near my home in Amagansett. I love the coastline at any time of the day or night, but I particularly like to swim in the sea in the afternoon. Away from the pace of the city, this peaceful landscape just charges me up.
My favourite websites are few and far between. I like Artsy because it makes more than 50,000 pieces of art, from institutions from the Guggenheim to the British Museum, accessible to people all over the world. I’m also an Amazon fan – I’m a book junkie and when I find a title that intrigues me I want it straight away; this provides almost instant gratification. www.amazon.com. www.artsy.net.
Haptic Lab: Custom quilts with cartographical clout
Exquisite heirlooms from a Brooklyn design collective
Exquisite heirlooms from a Brooklyn design collective
In an increasingly digitised world, the customised quilts handmade by Brooklyn-based Haptic Lab are a breath of fresh air. Founded by architect-turned-artist Emily Fischer, the design collective specialises in soft maps that serve as decorative objects and coverlets. “Quilts are between art and design,” explains Fischer. “They are craft pieces with a specific function, but they are also narrative heirlooms that can be displayed as art.”
Her creations – many of which are commissioned as wedding or anniversary gifts – have “an intrinsic emotional gravity to them,” says Fischer. She takes delight in working with a broad client base that comes to her with geographies and ideas as wide-ranging as an archipelago from a scientific expedition, to a ski-trail map from Telluride (first and second pictures), to a starry night sky. She then translates these personal places into one of her bespoke cotton and silk quilts that generally take three to four months to complete, and cost from $3,600.
Fischer’s understated aesthetic – and her love of a good city grid – is evident in such commissions as a monochromatic plan de Paris that features arrondissements, and a stark white map of lower Manhattan that was ordered by one New York couple to christen a new flat. A queen-size coverlet, featuring the rugged Nova Scotia coastline, is another example of Fischer’s ability to create a highly individualised narrative using embroidery. Quilts can be further customised by weight and are filled with cotton or wool wadding according to a client’s preference.
In addition to commissions, Haptic Lab also offers a selection of ready-made quilts of over 20 US and European cities ($450) that can be embroidered with personal details – a specific street or topographical feature, for example, can be highlighted, with initials or messages added – at no extra charge. The word “haptic” is derived from the Greek word to touch, and Fischer hopes that her creations “will be used today and also last for generations. I hope these quilts will find a home in the life of a family for at least the next 200 years.”
Mish
Magpies flock to this intimate NoHo jewellery salon for its fanciful creations and exquisite bespoke work
Magpies flock to this intimate NoHo jewellery salon for its fanciful creations and exquisite bespoke work
Set behind purple-lacquered doors on NoHo’s bustling Bond Street, you’ll find Mish, the eponymous jewellery salon and studio of the very dapper Mish Tworkowski. The designer is noted for his exuberant, sought-after creations and innovative bespoke work, in particular his organically inspired designs.
gold Wakaya cuffs with shell shapes, based on those found in Fiji, embellished with brown diamonds, $168,000 and $166,000 | Image: Dorothy Hong
He learnt to sketch and mould “by osmosis” at an early age, while spending time at a family friend’s jewellery firm. But it was during his years as a jewellery specialist at Sotheby’s in New York and London that he garnered a stylish following who sought the fanciful treasures he created on the side – and who continue to be some of his most loyal patrons. Tworkowski is the sole designer of the salon’s creations, and he works with a team of six to make pieces for an international clientele.
After 10 years in a carriage house on the Upper East Side, Tworkowski and his partner – the shop’s architect, Joseph Singer – moved to this mid-19th-century space in 2011, adding hand-painted walls inspired by petrified wood, a striking art-deco lilac suede sofa and a 1940s Barovier chandelier. The boutique’s bronze vitrines display Tworkowski’s jewels and nature’s inspiration is evident – take the chunky gold Wakaya cuffs with shell shapes, based on those found in Fiji, embellished with brown diamonds ($168,000 and $166,000), and a rose-gold Honeywood cocktail ring with a Mandarin garnet ($64,000). A vault holds some 400 additional treasures, including lariats of topaz nuggets with tassels of pearls and diamonds ($28,000). Modern art collectors, meanwhile, seeks out Mish for his bold, mineral-specimen pieces, such as blue shattuckite earrings ($18,600).
Bonnelle lariat necklace with smoky-topaz nuggets and tassels in gold, grey Tahitian and gold keshi pearls and beads, $28,000 | Image: Dorothy Hong
It is, however, Mish’s bespoke commissions that are the most exciting. From a request by Isabella Rossellini to rework her mother Ingrid Bergman’s strands of pearls into stone-encrusted bracelets and a chain necklace for her daughter, Elettra Wiedemann, to crafting custom-made tiaras, Tworkowski delights in creating “functional sculpture” for a discerning clientele.
This collaborative process includes everything from visits to a client’s home country to museum forays. “I get to know my customers very well – their stories, favourite places, colour preferences and their level of formality,” he says. After initial consultations, an on-site watercolourist then creates renderings on signature chocolate-brown paper, so that a client can visualise each commission.
As a result, his works are both personal and inventive. He has, for example, reimagined a customer’s priceless Suzanne Belperron ring to fit her more relaxed lifestyle, while other standout designs include Asian-inspired keepsakes ($36,000), featuring the camellias, koi and stone lanterns loved by a Tokyo-based couple.
His creations may be uniquely varied, but every one of his pieces showcases Tworkowski’s exquisite artistry and contemporary flair. “In the end,” he says, “I hope that I am creating a client’s power amulet – something that they feel is special but that they can wear all the time.”