Fashion designer Ulla Johnson talks taste
The founder of the clothes brand loves Ruinart champagne, loathes minimalism and ‘lives for Christmas’
My personal style signifier is my jewellery. I possibly wear too much, but I change it all the time and have an ever-evolving group of favourites. I collect antique Belperron, Verdura, Cartier, Hermès, Edwardian rose-cut diamonds, angel skin coral, snake rings, tennis bracelets and anything in the shape of a heart or a shell. I like to mix fine jewellery with pieces from my costume collection that features baroque pearls, sea creatures, turquoise, carved wood and gemstones. I wear my jewellery all the time and don’t consider anything “special occasion” or precious. I joke with my family that I want to be buried with all of it.
The last thing I bought and loved was a museum-quality antique Serbian folk dress made from hand-loomed silk and covered in embroidered bullion thread, sequins and lace. I bought it in Belgrade, where my mother is from. She collected folk costumes and Victorian lace, and I inherited her passion. I get palpitations when I find something uniquely beautiful. I believe in the emotional weight of objects that have been made by hand, as they carry the spirit of the maker.
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a Carlo Bugatti chair from the Paul Bert Serpette flea market in Paris. I had been looking for one for years and this one was perfect for me; it’s upholstered in parchment and illustrated with a bird, and it has his signature inlaid pewter and hammered copper with a silk fringe. A dream!
The best book I’ve read in the past year is Vanishing World by Sayaka Murata. I don’t typically go for science fiction, but I love Japanese sci-fi. This book was excellent. It’s a dystopian novel about a future with controlled reproduction, and an upended vision of marriage and family. It left me feeling something I hadn’t felt before – that’s the hallmark of a great book.
My style icon is my mother, Jasmina Draskovic-Johnson. She had a very personal and recognisable style – mostly black or camel tones, a strong shoulder and chunky silver jewellery that she collected in the Near East when she was working on archaeological excavations. She was also a fan of opulently embroidered shawls – and always a red lip. She knew what she loved and was committed to it. Having a singular point of view and confidence without arrogance are the things I admire in other women.
The best gift I’ve received is a Victorian bloodstone locket with a trifold pullout – very rare as they mostly have space for just one or two images. My husband gave it to me with baby pictures of our three children. It is my most cherished possession. The best gift I’ve given recently was an embroidered sweatshirt, to my son, the night before he left for college. He was always sketching weird characters as a child. I recently unearthed a detailed drawing he had made of a headless boy holding a large balloon and a drooping lollipop. I had the image embroidered on the sweatshirt. He was quite surprised.
