Guest User 12/26/19 Guest User 12/26/19

Ssense: the fashion e-tailer’s Montreal megalith of a shop

A sleek David Chipperfield-designed space is at the interface of digital and physical shopping.

A sleek David Chipperfield-designed space is at the interface of digital and physical shopping. By Christina Ohly Evans

Amid the quaint cobbled streets of old-town Montreal, a listed 19th-century building is not what it seems. A clue to what lies beyond the beaux-arts façade is proffered by a peek through the windows, which at first appear to be blacked out, but in fact look onto an intriguing inner structure of grey concrete.

Loewe Puzzle bag, £1,850, and Jacquemus Chiquito pouch, £375 | Image: Alexi Hobbs

The magnificently minimal “building within a building” next to the Notre-Dame Basilica is the work of David Chipperfield and the flagship of fashion‑forward retailer Ssense. The statement five‑storey space opened in May 2018, but Ssense (pronounced “essence”) was founded 15 years earlier by brothers Firas, Rami and Bassel Atallah to bring labels such as Maison Margiela, Givenchy, Rick Owens and Balmain to the French-Canadian city.

“We started with a small physical store,” says Firas. “Our aim was to build relationships with brands that were reluctant to sell online at the time.” Since then, Ssense has gone in for e-commerce in a big way. Its website currently serves 150 countries, can be browsed in Japanese and Chinese as well as English and French, and generates an average of 76 million page views per month (by way of comparison, Net-a‑Porter tots up 85 million). While its online stock totals some 50,000 items by more than 500 designers, what appears on Rue Saint-Sulpice is a tight edit that is refreshed weekly.

The David Chipperfield-designed space | Image: Alexi Hobbs

At the fore of the store’s displays are a series of collaborations and exclusives, from Prada and Maison Margiela capsule collections, to quick-strike sneaker drops by Nike x Virgil Abloh – all of which have been bestsellers. “We’re good at ID-ing up-and-coming designers,” says Firas, adding that Ssense was the first retailer to offer Random Identities, the menswear brand created by former YSL head Stefano Pilati. “We place our orders around six to eight months in advance, and have a certain vision of what will be popular.” For women, this might be a skintight, moon-print poloneck by French designer Marine Serre (£255) or a Loewe petite Puzzle bag (£1,850); for men, a quilted-down Moncler Wilson jacket in a lacquered emerald-green finish (£1,065) or silver Adidas Originals Ozweego trainers by Raf Simons (£330).

Marine Serre moon-print jersey poloneck, £255 | Image: Alexi Hobbs

“What really differentiates us, though, is our appointment system,” says Firas, explaining that an online wish list can be summoned to the store and tried on for size in one of eight sleek fitting rooms – with the help of a personal stylist if one so wishes. “Moreover, we want to have a cultural impact, featuring people who create things in music, architecture, art, fashion. We want Ssense to be fun.” Events have included book signings, artist talks, private dinners and an atmospheric installation of Craig Green’s collaboration with Moncler against a mechanical backdrop by London-based spatial designers Isabel + Helen.

Topping off the retail experience on the fifth floor are a reading room and café. There’s certainly nothing new about an in-store café, but here, in sleek Chipperfield style, with a glass ceiling giving unobstructed views of the sky above, the concept seems anything but old.

Guest User 12/13/19 Guest User 12/13/19

BJ Fogg’s perfect weekend on Maui

The behavioural scientist – and expert in persuasive technology and habit formation – rises early, paddleboards with whales and gets competitive at ping pong

BJ Fogg on Maui | Image: Brooke Auchincloss

“I escaped to Maui in 2001 when I saw that Silicon Valley wasn’t the most humanising place. I still teach at Stanford, and my behaviour design lab is there, but my happiest moments are spent in nature in Hawaii with Denny, my partner of 30 years. Here, I step away from technology and don’t think about the stresses of work.

I’m an early riser and I start every morning with the refrain, ‘It’s going to be a great day!’ I have a TED talk on the subject of tiny habits; I think it’s important to set the right tone for the day. I play my recorder – maybe a little Joni Mitchell – which is almost a meditative exercise, and have a glass of water infused with electrolytes. I wait at least an hour before having coffee. A sleep-expert friend recommends this for maintaining cortisol levels and I’m interested in sleep optimisation, so it’s worth the delay.

Once I’m fully awake, I’ll put my surfboard on top of my Honda and head for Kihei Cove for some stand-up paddleboarding, surrounded by turtles, whales and fish. The early morning time is quite spiritual; there are always about five of us regulars there who are upbeat and appreciative of the natural beauty.

When I return home to Makena, Denny cooks us breakfast to enjoy on the lanai [patio]. I’ll have my coffee with Brain Octane Oil from Bulletproof, mixed with sunflower butter, tahini, cinnamon, cocoa powder and some turmeric for its anti-inflammatory benefits. I’m a habits guy, as my new book will attest, so I don’t deviate much from this routine. I’m a big believer that people should find what works for them and triple down on it – don’t take someone else’s prescription for life.

I’m rabbit-like and eat veg throughout the day, so I always visit Hawaiian Moons Natural Foods to stock up on local vegetables and salad greens. I’ll also pick up sardines – one of the healthiest foods on the planet – avocado oil and fermented foods. Eating is less about taste for me and more about being the healthiest and most creative I can be.

We’ll drop into Ace Hardware to pick up things for home projects – a stop that makes me feel like a local – and then, for a bit of afternoon ‘research’, I’ll go to Upcountry Farmer’s Market where I talk to people about their passions – anyone from a local ceramicist to a baker. People light up discussing the things they love. My findings aren’t formal research, but I like seeing the world through other people’s eyes and I always learn something that informs my work.

After a picnic lunch in Kula Botanical Gardens, I’ll go to Hi Tech Surf Sports or Second Wind for surfing gear – and I am constantly on the hunt for better hats for sun protection. I also like Da Warehouse, an excellent resource for used furniture from the island’s hotels. And the secondhand store Nita’s Hidden Treasures, where I bought a set of wooden screens for filming my videos so you would never know where I am. Living on an island really makes you think about the environment and the cost of shipping; I’d rather have something that’s already here versus sending it by Amazon, which drives me bonkers.

My afternoon often involves calls about a climate change programme called Behaviour Design for Climate Action that I’m working on with students at Stanford. We’re working with scientists to help people change their behaviours. Scientists understand the shifting ecosystem, but not always how to get people involved in a more positive future. After my calls, I’ll put in earbuds and listen to Sapiens – an audiobook history of humankind – or maybe Kara Swisher’s Pivot podcast, and walk to Makena Landing to watch the turtles; or to Chang’s Beach or a little beach near our home that has no name – and almost no people – for a swim. I love being by myself and watching the tide pools and aquatic life with a spectacular sunset. I don’t use my phone camera or post on Instagram; I like to be in the moment, experiencing the waves and the sand.

In the evening, we often go to our friend Dorothy’s house for a potluck supper and some competitive ping pong. Dorothy is 91, but incredibly young, and I am always trying to surprise her with a weird little gift that she’s never seen before: a tiny drone, amber glasses to keep her circadian rhythms intact, or 200 ping pong balls with words such as ‘awesome’ inscribed on them.

On Sundays, Denny and I often do projects together – staining wood, making things – and we’ll get fish tacos from The Market in Wailea for lunch. In the evening, Denny cooks ahi tuna or mahi-mahi with roasted vegetables and a huge side salad for me – it’s like a trough. Our TV is typically hidden, but this is the one night we’ll watch something light and fun: The Voice, or a movie like Groundhog Day.

This is also my time for reading practical non-fiction such as I Will Teach You To Be Rich by my former student Ramit Sethi, or books about Hawaiian life. I might look at Instagram to see what my relatives are doing, or read my Apple News feed. We’ll also watch MSNBC’s Rachel Maddow, though this breaks my rule about politics before bedtime. She sees the deeper trends and puts everything in a historical context. I think people will study her one day.

I try not to think about Mondays the night before. I wear my TrueDark amber glasses – they filter out blue light to optimise my sleep – for at least an hour before bed. There is no light in our bedroom and there is a grounding mat under our mattress, which balances you out. I am up and ready to go at 5am, whether it’s running my lab or answering emails and phone calls. A perfect weekend is one where I’ve invested in the good habits that will carry me through the craziness ahead.”

Tiny Habits: The Small Changes That Change Everything, by BJ Fogg, is released on December 31 (Virgin Books, £14.99).

Circe Hamilton 12/4/19 Circe Hamilton 12/4/19

Marlon Brando’s prized Rolex among the gems in “Game Changers” auction

Phillips New York hosts a watch sale that’s well timed for the holiday season

The New York “Game Changers” sale presented by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo – the watch department at the auction house – promises to be a horologist’s treasure trove. As the name asserts, several of the pieces set to go under the hammer are deemed game-changing, including the iconic Rolex GMT-Master (ref 1675) worn by the late Marlon Brando in Francis Ford Coppola’s 1979 epic Apocalypse Now.

The iconic Rolex GMT-Master (ref 1675) owned by Brando

Its place in cinematic history withstanding, this particular timepiece is unique due to the never-before-seen “M Brando” inscription on the caseback, which the actor engraved personally. It is said that Brando was asked to remove the watch when filming in the Philippines, as it was considered too distracting on camera. “If they’re looking at my watch, then I’m not doing my job as an actor,” he is claimed to have retorted – and so the Rolex remained in the picture (although with its bezel removed), becoming synonymous with Brando’s rogue character, Colonel Kurtz.

The watch is unique due to the actor’s personal engraving on the caseback

Brando pictured with his daughter Petra and her mother, Caroline Barrett, at Petra’s graduation in 1994, when Brando gave her the Rolex | Image: Courtesy of Petra Brando

The piece remained in Brando’s possession until 1995, when he gifted it to his daughter Petra on the occasion of her graduation from university. Brando included a hand-written note that read: “This watch is like a tank. You can do anything you want to it and it will keep on going. I want you to have it as a reminder of how proud I am of you.” The piece remains beautifully preserved with its original dial, hands, crystal, crown and case.

Circe Hamilton 12/2/19 Circe Hamilton 12/2/19

12 delectable – and visually dazzling – Yule logs

The best Christmas confections from the world’s most celebrated pastry chefs

The traditional bûche de Noël is hitting new artistic heights this holiday season, using unexpected ingredients and themes. Here’s our pick of the best.

The Four Seasons Hotel George V’s orchid-like creation

Le Royal Monceau-Raffles, Paris

Pierre Hermé’s celebratory ferris wheel of a cake is as much objet d’art as dessert. It has a rotating chocolate wheel studded with macaroons, nougat and caramel, while the log itself combines gingerbread and fruit – figs, candied apricots, morello cherries – all bathed in delicate lemon mousseline and zesty lemon jelly. €250, available December 13-25; leroyalmonceau.com.

Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

Michael Bartocetti has created an edible homage to the hotel’s artistic director – and florist extraordinaire – Jeff Leatham, whose favourite flower is the orchid. Delicate almond biscuit, crunchy hazelnut, clover-infused cream, hazelnut praline and a luscious layer of Tulakalum chocolate mousse are topped with Meyer lemon zest and mikan tangerine. €95; restaurant-lecinq.com.

The Royal Mansour Marrakech’s offering features Moroccan motifs

Royal Mansour, Marrakech

Within the lavish medina walls, Jean Lachenal has conceived Christmas cakes in flavours of coffee, bourbon vanilla and dark chocolate – each featuring Moroccan patterns and motifs. 450 MAD (about £36), to order; royalmansour.com.

A trompe-l’oeil stack of chocolate books from La Réserve | Image: Delphine Constantini

La Réserve, Paris

This unique Yule log is Adrien Salvert’s riff on the hotel’s Duc de Morny library, with a trompe-l’oeil stack of edible books rendered in chocolate. Beneath the top book cover lies a boxful of chocolates infused with smoky tea and citrus flavours, while the base cake is a nod to the classic French confection itself. €95, to order; lareserve-paris.com.

Park Hyatt, Tokyo

Here three variations on the theme are available: Pure White Snow, a streamlined white chocolate mousse with passion-fruit jelly and hazelnut praline crunch; Mont Blanc, with vanilla sponge cake wrapped around a chestnut and rum ganache, paired with maple syrup, roasted walnuts and almond cream; and the Dark Manjari Chocolate version encased in a sleek glaçage. ¥4,700 (about £33), to order; restaurants.tokyo.park.hyatt.co.jp.

The Ritz Paris’s bûche de Nöel | Image: Aimery Chemin

Mandarin Oriental, Paris

This year’s creation by Adrien Bozzolo was made in collaboration with celebrated design firm Gilles & Boissier. A chocolate hut holds a chocolate and passion-fruit cake embellished with tiny toys. €98, available December 20-26; mandarinoriental.com.

The Royal Champagne’s creation is inspired by the Christmas tree seen from the hotel’s terrace

The Ritz, Paris

François Perret’s log is a swirl of chocolate ribbons and hazelnuts, its biscuit base enhanced by an airy cream made with muscovado, and caramelised gold cocoa sprinkles adding the pièce de résistance. €110, to order; ritzparisboutique.com.

Hôtel Metropole Monte-Carlo’s caramel, vanilla and pecan confection | Image: Studio Phenix

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, Champillon

Fusing milk-chocolate guanaja and crunchy cocoa nibs with raisins and creamy caramel, this log is given a final subtle yet sweet kick with a hint of local tipple ratafia – a mix of brandy and grape juice. The chocolate Christmas-tree topper is inspired by the one seen from the hotel’s terrace. €85; royalchampagne.com.

The world of French winemaking informs Peninsula Paris’s log

Hôtel Plaza Athénée, Paris

Angelo Musa has won the World Pastry Cup and been named One of the Best Craftsmen in France (Meilleur Ouvrier de France), and now, with colleague Alexandre Defeu, he has created a yule log that looks like it has been plucked from the forest. Combining milk-chocolate mousse and citrus-fruit marmalade with layers of chocolate ganache and biscuit, this is a traditional cake with modern flavours. €120; dorchestercollection.com.

Hôtel Metropole, Monte-Carlo

A holiday fantasy in caramel, vanilla and pecans by Patrick Mesiano and Christophe Cussac, this gold-dusted yule log, decorated with gilded feathers, is perfectly in keeping with its Monaco surroundings. €95; metropole.com.

The Peninsula, Paris

French winemaking traditions inform this year’s limited-edition Yule log by Dominique Costa. Set inside an elegant champagne box topped with a Pinot Noir vine, a cake of chocolate-glazed gingerbread sponge is accented with spiced pears, vanilla mousse and caramelised almond crunch. €118, to order; peninsula.com.

Le Meurice, Paris

Cédric Grolet is known for his love of citrus fruits, and here lemon-infused biscuit and mousse are offset with fresh herbs such as basil, tarragon and mint, followed by a base of roasted cereals – quinoa, sunflower seeds, kasha and linseed – and topped with whipped lemon-yuzu ganache and fromage blanc mousse. From €50, to order; dorchestercollection.com.

Circe Hamilton 11/28/19 Circe Hamilton 11/28/19

Artist Sean Scully talks personal taste

The painter loves Bill Murray’s low-key style and Lana Del Rey tunes – and eagerly awaits the arrival of a hydrogen car on the market. Portraits by Jody Rogac

Sean Scully in his studio | Image: Jody Rogac

My personal style signifier is a pair of black leather Ecco shoes. I can do anything in these slip-ons: run, walk, work out, paint – and they even look good for social occasions. While other people fumble with their shoes in airport security, I speed through. ecco.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was a painting by Marie Lucas-Robiquet. I was at Bonhams to ID an artwork that had been stolen from me, when I saw this wonderful painting of two children in the French countryside. I loved it so much I decided to bid on it right then and there, and it now hangs in our hallway. bonhams.com.

On my wishlist is a hydrogen car. I’m waiting for these environmentally conscious cars to come onto the market – we all need to do our part to leave the planet better for our children. I’m big into recycling. I actually found my favourite armchair by the side of the road. It’s in the middle of my studio and when I am painting, I will sit here for a while to think and absorb my work in progress.

The work of art that changed everything was Picasso’s Child with a Dove. It literally saved my life. I went to a terrible school in south London and there was a copy of this painting hanging in the assembly hall. It is so peaceful – it was very moving and inspirational for me.

A recent “find” is Finnegan’s of Dalkey, a beautiful pub on the outskirts of Dublin with a great atmosphere. The lighting, the old world feel and the food are all excellent. I recommend their fish pie with chips at lunch. finnegans.ie.

When I paint, I listen to anything by Brahms and Lana Del Rey, and I recently downloaded the album Aventine by the Danish singer Agnes Obel. She is classically trained and I love the way she fuses highbrow music with pop. Her sound is quite grave and austere. I also like jazz, particularly Miles Davis, and cello music, but in general my playlists tend to be women-centric; my mother was a vaudeville singer, so I am drawn to theatre.

One of his heritage apple trees | Image: Jody Rogac

My style icon is Bill Murray. I like the way he handles himself, never seeking attention and always humble. His clothes are a low-key reflection of his personality.

The best book I’ve read in the past year is Escape from Freedom by philosopher Erich Fromm, which explores the roots of authoritarianism and the rise of democracy. It was originally published in 1941, but it rings just as true today.

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a Johnston & Murphy blue dress shirt. I bought a few of them as they travel well and fit my body perfectly. They are machine-washable, too, which means I only have to take carry-on luggage. From $99.50; johnstonmurphy.com.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Château Lacoste in the south of France. It is the extraordinary vision of Paddy McKillen, with outstanding art, architecture and food. I went recently to see an exhibition of my wife Liliane Tomasko’s paintings and the whole setting was just sublime. chateau‑la-coste.com.

“Untitled” (Your People are the Root of all Evil) – a wall plaque by Barbara Kruger | Image: Jody Rogac

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is a felt tortilla box with felt vegetables on the lid. I bought it for a dollar from an eight-year-old Mexican girl, near Mérida, and keep it in my office in New York.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Berlin. There is a wonderful supermarket called Edeka near Tegel Airport. It’s one of the best in the world, full of the most beautifully displayed organic produce, despite it being in the worst area. For contemporary art I love Kewenig, a gallery that’s set in a historic townhouse, juxtaposed with an electric substation. edeka.de. kewenig.com.

Child with a Dove by Picasso | Image: Succession Picasso/DACS, London 2019

The best gift I’ve given recently was a watercolour of mine to an auction that raised money for a refugee village outside Calais. It is one of my Mirror Images and only 8in x 11in, but it managed $50,000. I also bought a portrait by Chantal Joffe to support this worthy cause. migrateart.com.

And the best gift I’ve received recently is a painted photograph of Lili and I renewing our wedding vows, with our son looking on. It was from Bono who captured the moment and shows me carrying the flowers.

Scully’s felt tortilla box that he bought in Mexico | Image: Jody Rogac

The gadget I couldn’t do without is my iPhone. It is literally my office. I grew up with no electricity and now have total connectivity wherever I am. I am good with technology, so I even draw on it. apple.com.

In my fridge you’ll always find broccoli – I eat it raw or steamed – and all sorts of berries, yoghurt and milk. I am vegetarian, so I tend to go in the fruit and veg direction. I also have organic Pinot Noiron hand – it doesn’t matter what kind.

Scully’s Ecco shoes and salvaged armchair | Image: Jody Rogac

An indulgence I would never forgo is penne with pesto from Il Portico in New York. It’s run by the very nice Pepe, and his pasta is outstanding. ilportico.com.

I have a collection of art – surprise! I particularly love the Hudson River School painters and I have a George Inness that I treasure. I also own pieces by Barbara Kruger and Emily Kngwarreye and photos by Robert Gardner who was director of film study at Harvard when I was there. I have a collection of fruit trees too. This is the first time I’ve lived outside a city and have had the space for a proper garden, so we’ve planted about 30 heritage apple trees, as well as quince trees for making jam and pear trees.

Objects I would never part with are my Eleuthera paintings: 23 large works featuring my son, aged seven, on the beach in the Bahamas.

The grooming staple I’m never without is my Oral B Pro 5000 electric toothbrush. I use it twice a day and it’s 50 times better than any other. £84.98; boots.com.

Norman Fucking Rockwell! by Lana Del Rey

If I didn’t live outside New York City, I would live in Königsdorf, just south of Munich. It has views of the mountains in all directions and everything revolves around being outdoors; the lake and the nature reserve are highlights, and the surrounding Bavarian castles and churches are charming. The Beuerberg golf club is particularly nice. golfclub-beuerberg.de.

My favourite room in my house is the dining room. It’s the only room in the house with great light and high ceilings. It’s also a play space – there are tables with my son’s Lego and drawings – and feels warm and communal.

Sean Scully at home outside New York City | Image: Jody Rogac

My wellbeing guru is my physician, Dr Michael Salitan. I’ve been seeing him for over 30 years and he’s a friend at this point. He is incredibly well-informed. 589 Broadway, New York (+1212-219 7600).

My favourite websites and apps are ArtFacts for research and iTunes to create playlists to listen to while I work.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Picasso. I would buy everything. His work is tactile and life-affirming – I strive for this in my own work.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a politician – there is a lot that needs doing. Fascism is a big slug waiting to come out and I’d like to stop it. I also write, so would like to spend more time doing that too.

The site that inspires me is the Mayan city of Uxmal, in Mexico. It has a mystical power I find moving.

The Connaught hotel’s Christmas tree was designed this year by Sean Scully (the-connaught.co.uk).

Guest User 11/15/19 Guest User 11/15/19

Simone Rocha’s perfect weekend in Dublin

The fashion designer celebrates her homecoming with rare books and vintage clothes, oysters and chips – and a reviving sea-swim

“Although I live in London now, Dublin still feels like my hometown. I loved growing up here, just a short walk from the centre, and I went to college in The Liberties, the historic part of the city close to the Liffey. When I’m back for weekends, it’s usually all about family and friends, pubs and long walks.

At Christmas, the city is at its very best – well, its most merry anyway. Christmas Eve is wonderful, with women selling flowers in the streets and everyone last-minute panicking. My boyfriend, Eoin, might be delivering turkeys around town – his father is a butcher – so he brings the birds to the nuns or to friends in the pubs, in which case, it’s more family time for me. Regardless of the season, I always find the city to be authentic and somehow poetic, and being here sets me at ease.

Saturday mornings begin with my dad [John Rocha] going out to get the papers and some sausage rolls from the local petrol station. Once fortified, I’ll walk into town. I love the pace and the way you can float around and bump into old friends – it feels like nothing has changed.

First, I’ll stop at our coffee place, 3fe, then have a wander in my favourite shops. I go to Sheridans, the excellent cheesemonger on Anne Street, for Comté and maybe a nice goat’s cheese and their Irish brown-bread crackers. There are wonderful bookstores – particularly Ulysses Rare Bookshop on Duke Street, which has amazing finds such as a first edition of The Train by Thomas Kinsella, or old classics like Black Beauty with illustrations by Cecil Aldin, from around 1930. I also love the bookshop in the Gallery of Photography, in the heart of Temple Bar, overlooking Meeting House Square, where I always find a big mix of old and new photo books.

For clothes, I’ve always liked the vintage stores: Jenny Vander has rails and rails of pieces with a slightly 1920s feel, while A Store is Born sells clothes from across the decades. The best fashion store is Havana, in Donnybrook, owned by the incredible Nikki Creedon, who I’ve been working with exclusively for years. She sells brands from Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons to Rick Owens.

After shopping, I like a simple lunch – maybe a cheese toastie with mustard at Grogans, a pub in the middle of town that is traditional and down-to-earth. I always love the fresh fish at Cavistons in Glathule too – ideally, baked Kilmore hake or seared king scallops with ginger and lemon. If I’m feeling more adventurous, it might be the Roundwood Inn in County Wicklow for lunch after a drive through the Sally Gap, or a walk in scenic Glendalough. The crab claws, oysters and chips at this former hunting lodge are always excellent.

The Francis Bacon Studio in Hugh Lane Gallery, which was moved, piece by piece, from 7 Reece Mews in London, is amazing, and my favourite spot for a bit of afternoon culture. The Irish Museum of Modern Art is incredible as well for its collection of modern and contemporary work. I’ve had so many wonderful visits there, from the first time I saw the work of Louise Bourgeois – my early exposures to her art continue to inspire me and my own design – to a Nick Cave gig last summer. It’s set in the beautiful grounds of the 17th-century Royal Hospital Kilmainham, a short walk from where I studied at the National College of Art and Design.

On Saturday night, I’ll either have people around for supper or I’ll go out with friends to Etto, a restaurant opened a few years ago by friends of mine. Their menus are seasonal, but I always love the côte de boeuf and red-wine prunes with mascarpone – heavenly. They’ve just opened a second restaurant called Uno Mas, but I haven’t made it there yet. After dinner, I love the Irish Film Institute, which shows a mix of independent and classic films. The perfect ending to the night is a bag of crispy chips from Leo Burdock for the walk home.

Sunday morning starts with brown bread or classic Irish soda bread from McCambridge, served with local smoked salmon. If the weather is nice, you’ll find me at Forty Foot [a promontory of Dublin Bay at Sandycove], where I’ll go for a swim in the sea, maybe followed by a visit to one of the city’s wonderful museums. The old Collins Barracks now houses the National Museum of Ireland, which has amazing pieces by Eileen Gray. And the Natural History Museum, with its creaky floorboards and taxidermy animals that look like they have been there forever, is another of my regular stops.

Sunday lunch is always in our family home, cooked by my mother: roast chicken – with my granny’s stuffing – and potatoes. After a leisurely meal, we spend time around the fire reading or watching sport, and it’s peaceful. I always love being in Dublin, but I never manage to see everyone I want to see or do everything I want to do before it’s time to leave for London again.”

Guest User 11/15/19 Guest User 11/15/19

How to spend it in . . . Simone Rocha’s guide to Dublin

The fashion designer celebrates her homecoming with rare books and vintage clothes, oysters and chips – and a reviving sea-swim

“Although I live in London now, Dublin still feels like my hometown. I loved growing up here, just a short walk from the centre, and I went to college in The Liberties, the historic part of the city close to the Liffey. When I’m back for weekends, it’s usually all about family and friends, pubs and long walks.

Guest User 11/13/19 Guest User 11/13/19

Lauren Cuthbertson: ‘I love a good cheddar studded with cranberries’

The principal dancer with the Royal Ballet looks forward to a festive panettone, matching monogrammed gifts and an old-school Christmas soundtrack

My personal style signifier is a pair of black Dr Martens boots. If I’m not in a pointe shoe, I’m wearing these. As a ballerina, I’m light on my feet and, with my posture, I can pull them off. I feel like they go with my personality. drmartens.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was an antique Fabergé pendant that I found at the Antique Jewellery Company in London. It’s a bright-blue enamel heart with solid gold stars and it struck my eye the minute I walked into the shop. antiquejewellerycompany.com.

The thing I’d love for the festive season is a camel wool coat by Rejina Pyo. The holidays are all about wrapping up, and this beautiful coat with lovely button details will be an important piece of my winter wardrobe. Simone coat, £895; rejinapyo.com.

My seasonal playlist would have to include all the classics: Mariah Carey’s All I Want for Christmas, anything by the Andrews Sisters, Bing Crosby’s White Christmas… a mix is where it’s at for me. Carluccio’s panettone

A winter indulgence I would never forgo is a panettone from Carluccio’s. It’s my favourite seasonal indulgence – with coffee, toasted with butter, any way at all. Nothing says Christmas quite like it. carluccios.com.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is St Petersburg, and specifically the Mariinsky Theatre. I was there last winter and walking over the frozen river and past the Winter Palace was mind-blowingly beautiful. The Mariinsky Theatre is a glittering jewel box, rich in history that seems to seep through the walls. mariinsky.ru.

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is dulce de leche from Buenos Aires. Sadly, I can’t remember where I got it, as I’ve just ditched the jar; there was only a spoonful left and it was delicious.

The best festive gifts I’ve given were monogrammed Aspinal wallets for all my family. I quite like matching things. I pride myself on present-giving, and always try to pick things that will remind us of each other. aspinaloflondon.com.

And the best one I’ve received is an amazing early-20th-century print by the artist John Copley. I think gifts for the home are the most meaningful at this time of year. gerrishfineart.com.

I have a collection of bespoke scents. I work with a perfumer, Anastasia Brozler, to create a fragrance for every role I perform. I keep some in my dressing room and some at home. There are currently 28 little tester bottles in my dressing room.

My favourite room in my house is my bedroom, because I’m obsessed with crisp white linen. This space counterbalances all the tulle and ribbons of my busy performance life. It’s uncluttered, apart from a few precious keepsakes on my bedside table. The White Company silk pyjamas, £189

The festive tradition I look forward to most is being with my family on Christmas Eve and all of us watching a movie and going to bed in matching new pyjamas. No matter where we are, this has always been the way. My last pair was lovely and simple, from The White Company. thewhitecompany.com.

The tech gadget I couldn’t do without is my Sony Bluetooth headset. I use it for my barre work and to cancel out noise on aeroplanes. No matter where I am, I find music very comforting. £329; sony.co.uk. La Prairie Anti-Ageing Day Cream, £192 for 50ml The beauty staple I’m never without is La Prairie Anti-Ageing Day Cream. I first tried this rich, moisturising day cream at an airport and I’ve been hooked ever since. £192 for 50ml; laprairie.co.uk.

A recent “find” is the Palladian-style Wentworth Woodhouse in South Yorkshire. It’s a decrepit old stately home that is in the process of being restored; a magical place. It has the longest façade of any country house in England and the formal gardens are breathtaking. We got lost in endless corridors lined with red and pink satin walls. wentworthwoodhouse.org.uk.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a detective. I love true crime. If not that, an interior designer or fashion buyer. Her Ganni wrap dress, £400

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a Ganni wrap dress. I love the shape and fit, the print is fun and it’s versatile; I can dress it up or down with just a jumper or a polo. £400; ganni.com.

An object I would never part with is a ring my mother gave me for my 30th birthday. It was the first piece she bought with the money from her first job and it’s very special to me. It’s one of four gold rings that I’m never without. Cuthbertson at The ROH

My favourite apps are Mr & Mrs Smith, a great reference point for hotels around the world; Insight Timer, a meditation app; and Lime, for renting scooters wherever I travel. I also like Honeywell for remotely controlling the temperature of my home.

My style icon is Iris Apfel. She shows that the older you are, the more fabulous you can look. Her bold clothing and jewellery make her a true individual.

The last music I downloaded was by Jeremy Dutcher, a Canadian tenor and composer. He is an indigenous performer, and his album Wolastoqiyik Lintuwakonawa includes wonderful traditional Maliseet songs. Seafood at Orasay in London

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Orasay in Notting Hill. I’m a fan of chef Jackson Boxer’s cuisine. He fuses all kinds of amazing flavours: burrata with figs and pine kernels or Dorset clams with nduja and lime. The quality of the ingredients and the slightly Scandi feel of the space make for a memorable night. orasay.london.

If I had to limit my festive shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose central London for the variety. Liberty is simply the best all decked out, and a great place for gifts. I like to stock up on sweets at Fortnum & Mason. I get simple brown paper and tags for wrapping parcels at the post office, but go to VV Rouleaux for fancy ribbon – a different colour for each family member’s gifts. fortnumandmason.com. libertylondon.com. vvrouleaux.com. Sweets at Fortnum & Mason

My beauty and wellbeing gurus include Andrew Ferguson at The Notting Hill Osteopathic Practice and Sarah Bradden for cosmetic acupuncture. I go to both every two months, no matter how I am feeling, because they keep me strong and supple. Sarah’s techniques are very holistic and they help with imbalances and impurities in the skin. I’m also in the process of transitioning from brunette to blonde and Mads-Sune Lund at Josh Wood in Holland Park is helping. joshwoodcolour.com. nottinghillosteopaths.co.uk. Sarah Bradden Cosmetic Acupuncture at Harvey Nichols, harveynichols.com.

The podcast I’m listening to is the episode of Desert Island Discs with Jacqueline Du Pré, the virtuoso cellist. It includes everything from Franz Schubert’s String Quintet in C Major to Mozart’s La bella tua Zerlina non può from Don Giovanni. Spectacular. The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Marc Chagall. I particularly love the ceiling paintings at the Palais Garnier opera house and his stained-glass windows at the Art Institute of Chicago, but I find his work, in any medium, open, inspiring and atmospheric.

In my fridge at this time of year you’ll always find champagne and cheese. I love a good cheddar studded with cranberries and all the relishes and chutneys that are available now, and the caramelised onion chutney from the farmers’ market in Kew.

The best book I’ve read in the past year is Speaking for Themselves: The Personal Letters of Winston and Clementine Churchill. These personal missives between Churchill and his wife taught me a great deal about the man and about history, as told from a very personal perspective. Lauren dances the role of Princess Aurora in Sleeping Beauty at select performances until January 16, including that day’s ROH Live Cinema production (roh.org.uk).

Guest User 10/19/19 Guest User 10/19/19

Marco Valle’s dining boltholes

The CEO of yacht manufacturer Azimut shares his favourite haunts for entertaining, from a charming trattoria in Piedmont to a Michelin-starred Jean-Georges in Shanghai

The CEO of yacht manufacturer Azimut shares his favourite haunts for entertaining, from a charming trattoria in Piedmont to a Michelin-starred Jean-Georges in Shanghai

“Yachting attitude is all about pleasure, and entertaining is an important part of the business – many of our biggest deals have been done while enjoying good food and fine wine. I meet clients and brokers for meals all over the world, from South America, where we mostly host dinners, to the Middle East, where lunch is better, and the US, where I also have breakfast meetings. Breakfasts often feel too formal though; I prefer dinners, where everyone’s more relaxed and the drinks flow.

In the US, I spend a lot of time in Fort Lauderdale and Miami, particularly around the time of the boat shows – our days are packed with meetings, but meals are an important part of the schedule. In Miami, I like The Surf Club or the Mandarin Oriental, with its relaxed atmosphere and full American breakfast. Wherever I go, I eat like a local, so in the US, breakfast might be eggs and bacon, while in Asia it’s a bento box or steamed dim sum. In Fort Lauderdale, I’ll host dinners with dealers including MarineMax to solidify relationships and hear feedback – Valentino and Dune are two vibrant restaurants that have great fresh seafood.

Dinners have a different feel in the Middle East because there’s no drinking, while in China everyone drinks too much because they like to toast a lot! I don’t want to offend by not drinking, so I try to keep these trips to a day or so, because I can’t handle it three days in a row. Either way, lots of deals for 25m boats have been sealed around the table. In Shenzhen, Elba at the St Regis has incredible views and excellent pastas and pizzas. Shanghai is another important market for us, and I take clients for dinner at Canton Table or Jean-Georges – both in Three on the Bund, which overlooks the city and is stunning. I try to follow my guests’ lead and eat whatever delicacies they choose. In Singapore, I like The Peninsula for lunches as it’s near the marina and always productive for meetings, while The Black Swan is a great spot for long dinners and delicious steaks. Hong Kong is always a strong yachting market and Café Gray Deluxe at The Upper House is an elegant – but not stuffy – place to entertain, with set menus and wine pairings.

The south of France – Monaco and Cannes in particular – is key for us; Restaurant 1909 is great for lunch or dinner during the Monaco Boat Show. It’s members and their guests only, and popular with industry people. In Cannes, I like Le Cabanon for its incredible fish tartares and its Mediterranean feel.

Back home in Italy, I always take clients to restaurants close to our yards – anything from Michelin-starred fine dining to a local trattoria, depending on the client. The one-star Combal.Zero, in Rivoli’s old castle, serves an excellent prawn carpaccio, while for a more authentic Italian experience – which most of our American and South American clients seem to prefer – Canton Divino in Avigliana is charming, and its homemade ravioli with hazelnuts, honey and Parmesan is always a favourite. I’ll often meet Franco Fusignani, CEO of Benetti, for a big lunch in Viareggio, where we both have yards. We’ve had very productive meetings over simple grilled fish at Trattoria la Darsena.

As Italians, we pay attention to the role of food in business; it isn’t just about feeding, but about creating a more relaxed setting than you’ll find in any office. Plus, people just love Italian food!”

The Black Swan, theblackswan.com.sg. Café Gray Deluxe at The Upper House, upperhouse.com. Canton Divino, cantondivino.it. Canton Table at Three on the Bund, threeonthebund.com. Combal.Zero, combal.org. Dune, dunefl.com. Elba Italian Restaurant at the St Regis Shenzhen, marriott.com. Jean-Georges at Three on the Bund, jean-georges.com. Le Cabanon, lecabanoncannes.com. Mandarin Oriental, mandarinoriental.com. The Peninsula Singapore, peninsulaexcelsior.com.sg. Restaurant 1909 at Yacht Club de Monaco, yacht-club-monaco.mc. The Surf Club Restaurant, surfclubrestaurant.com. Trattoria la Darsena, trattorialadarsena.it. Valentino, valentinocucinaitaliana.com

Guest User 10/16/19 Guest User 10/16/19

Madeleine Grynsztejn’s perfect weekend in Chicago

The Pritzker director of Chicago’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA) dives into independent bookshops, exhibitions and a colourful food scene

“After a long week spent travelling to art fairs and exhibitions, there is something quite zen about watching a gorilla relaxing. One of my favourite things to do on Saturday morning is to walk around our neighbourhood, taking an amble through Lincoln Park to the farmers’ market, then on to the Lincoln Park Zoo, where you could explore from sun-up to sundown: it’s possibly my favourite place in the city – for people-watching as well as the amazing variety of animals. In the afternoon, I catch up on Chicago’s vibrant art scene. I am on the road so much that weekends allow me to fully enjoy the art and architecture that make this city so uniquely urban and urbane. We have amazing cultural spaces, including Theaster Gates’s Stony Island Arts Bank, as well as The Arts Club, the DePaul Art Museum, the Graham Foundation and Wrightwood 659. I’m also excited about getting to know performance artist and sculptor Nick Cave’s new multidisciplinary space, Facility.

My husband Tom Shapiro and I also love the city’s theatres – from the legendary Steppenwolf to tiny storefronts like Chopin Theatre, where we just saw It is Magic by Mickle Maher, a hilarious mash-up of Macbeth and The Three Little Pigs. We’re smitten with the acrobatic productions by the small-but-mighty Lookingglass theatre – and the fact that we can walk over to the MCA’s Marisol restaurant for an aperitif after a show. The restaurant is a point of pride for me, as the Chris Ofili artwork was commissioned specifically for the space – and the sunflower hummus with homemade crackers is outstanding.

If we are further west, we might go for a late snack of oysters and champagne at The Publican in the Fulton Market area. For special occasions, we’re huge fans of the American-Danish cuisine at Elske – especially their cured hamachi with crispy potatoes and dill pickles, or smoked fjord trout. It’s a place where the atmosphere matches the cuisine: it’s spare, relaxed and a perfect reflection of Chicago. We also love Mi Tocaya Antojería in Logan Square, which is our version of Brooklyn, for the best Mexican food in town. Sunday starts with brunch at Lula Café, where Jason Hammel makes things like rhubarb wholewheat French toast and granola strewn with edible flowers. City Lit Books is next door, which is a real bonus. I’m crazy for books and love supporting independent stores such as Women and Children First and Myopic Books. Tom and I usually spend the afternoon preparing a meal for friends. Chicago is chock-a-block with amazing people, and we tend to mix in guests who are in town for events at the MCA. Recently we introduced the playwright and actor Anna Deavere Smith to the choreographer and Whitney Biennial sensation Brendan Fernandes and the fashion designer Duro Olowu. We had a wonderful time over rosé, homemade gazpacho and pasta, and a seasonal berry pie from the Hoosier Mama bakery, a Chicago institution. I love expressing my thanks to friends through a delicious meal and an evening of lively discussion.

Afterwards, we might binge on Stranger Things or The Marvellous Mrs Maisel before I pack my bags for the week ahead.” The Arts Club, 201 E Ontario St (artsclubchicago.org). Chopin Theatre, 1543 W Division St (chopintheatre.com). City Lit Books, 2523 N Kedzie Blvd (citylitbooks.com). DePaul Art Museum, 935 W Fullerton (resources.depaul.edu/artmuseum). Elske, 1350 W Randolph St (elskerestaurant.com). Facility, 3616 N Milwaukee Ave (facilitychicago.org). The Graham Foundation, 4 W Burton Pl (grahamfoundation.org). Hoosier Mama Pie Company, 1618 W Chicago Ave (hoosiermamapie.com). Lincoln Park Zoo, 2001 N Clark St (lpzoo.org). Lookingglass, lookingglasstheatre.org. Lula Cafe, 2537 N Kedzie Blvd (lulacafe.com). Marisol, 205 E Pearson St (marisolchicago.com). MCA, 220 E Chicago Ave (mcachicago.org). Mi Tocaya Antojería, 2800 W Logan Blvd (mitocaya.com). Myopic Books, 1564 N Milwaukee Ave (myopicbookstore.com). The Publican, 837 W Fulton Market (thepublicanrestaurant.com). Stony Island Arts Bank, 6760 S Stony Island Ave (rebuild-foundation.org). -Steppenwolf Theatre Company, 1650 N Halsted St (steppenwolf.org). Women and Children First, 5233 N Clark St (womenandchildrenfirst.com). Wrightwood 659, 659 W Wrightwood Ave (wrightwood659.org).

Guest User 10/8/19 Guest User 10/8/19

How to spend it in . . . Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s guide to St Barths

Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s insider guide to the Caribbean island. Portrait by Jean-Philippe Piter

The French-American chef offers his guide to the Caribbean island

“I’ve been coming to St Barths for 32 years and consider the island to be a home away from home. There’s a lot to love about it, not least that it’s three-and-a-half hours from my home in New York, which means that I get to visit three or four times a year. But also the diversity it holds – there are so many beaches, walks in the mountains and (importantly, for me) world-class restaurants to choose from. And no highways, so the pace of life is slower. You really can be barefoot 24/7. It is paradise.

I first came with my business partner, Phil Suarez, who owns a home here, and I now visit every year at Christmas with my family – but any time between Thanksgiving and the end of May is good. Hurricane Irma really laid waste to much of the island in 2017, and it’s a real testament to the strength of the community that they were able to rebuild so quickly; so much so that this year, everything – hotels, restaurants, shops, infrastructure – is 90 to 95 per cent back to normal.

Of course, getting to St Barths is half the fun. Or terror, depending on your stomach for flying – the Tradewind Aviation flights from St Maarten and San Juan come in over a steep hill and it’s basically the scariest landing in the world, on one of the shortest runways. I have twice been on a plane that ended up with its nose in the sand. Luckily, the instruments are more precise these days and everything runs smoothly. And you know immediately that you’re somewhere good because the views of the turquoise Caribbean are incredible.

One of the rooms at boutique hotel Villa Marie

One of the best things the island has going for it is its hotels. There are all kinds of places, each with a unique feel, and fantastically, you won’t find any big‑brand names. And because there is such a limited number of rooms and homes available, it doesn’t feel rammed, even during peak holiday seasons. The restaurants do get more crowded then, but that’s another story…

Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France, right on Flamands Beach, reopened last year with new rooms and suites by Jacques Grange, much to everyone’s excitement. Le Guanahani, between Marigot Bay and Grand Cul de Sac, will reopen next year and is a classic – 67 rooms and suites spread across these charming little cottages. Eden Rock, on the highest point overlooking Baie de St-Jean – you see it when you fly in – is probably the island’s oldest hotel and its white-sand coral beaches are some of the best. It’s reopening next month, fully recovered from Irma. One of the smallest and most charming hotels is Baie des Anges, overlooking Flamands Bay. There are just a handful of rooms here, but the views of the crystal-clear sea are incredible. It’s discreet and the restaurant, La Langouste, is excellent as well – very local and full of creole influences – and while the hotel is modest compared to some of the others, it’s a perfect quiet hideaway. I also like Villa Marie, up in the hills of Colombier. It’s more boho chic and you have beautiful views of the bay.

I’m a big water guy, which is part of why I love St Barths so much: the beaches are incredible. There are so many good ones, but I like to send people to Colombier, as well as Grande Saline and Gouverneur, because they’re good for both swimming and snorkelling. Whichever you choose, you should bring a picnic of delicious sandwiches and prepared salads from Maya’s To Go. The last swim of the day, the place where we watch the sunset, is Shell Beach – ideally with cocktails in hand and Greek mezes on the table at Shellona, which is right on the water there. Baie de St-Jean is the best place for kids to swim, as there is no surf and the water is the purest blue. On the Atlantic side of the island is the Washing Machine, which is basically, as its name implies, rough, so not great for swimming – but there are natural pools that are nice for a dip; you can sit and watch the pelicans swoop down for fish. And the hike to get there is well worth it.

A leather and gold bracelet from Trésors de St Barth

So within hours of waking on St Barths you will have worked up an appetite in the sun or surfing or hiking, which is good because there are any number of places to eat a wonderful late breakfast or lunch. While I have a restaurant here – the Sand Bar at Eden Rock – I love many others. My long-time favourite is Maya’s, just outside historic Gustavia Harbour. Maya Gurley, the owner and my good friend, is one of the most creative chefs anywhere. Her shrimp salad with green papaya and tamarind-spiced pork is excellent.

They get really incredible food here now – things like Bresse chicken and French cheeses; the quality of imported ingredients available is outstanding. But all the tropical fruits – mangoes, papayas – come via Guadeloupe and Martinique so they are really fresh and flavourful. The perfect morning starts with a freshly baked baguette from La Boulangerie Choisy in L’Orient. For casual lunches I like L’Isola for Italian dishes using local fish, and also L’Isoletta for Roman-style pizzas. And Eddy’s Ghetto in Gustavia for the goat curry and fried catfish is a must. On the way to Grande Saline you’ll find Le Tamarin, which is one of the best places for dinner; it’s built around a massive old tamarind tree – it has a beautiful outdoor atmosphere and fantastic mahi-mahi and marinated local tiradito.

A cocktail at the Cheval Blanc White Bar

St Barths is famous for its nightlife, although after a day spent on or in the water, I tend to be in bed by 10pm. There are places that I like for a night out, however. Le Ti St-Barth in Pointe Milou is one of the best. Its owner, Carole, has been an island presence for many years and late-night table dancing is a regular occurence. Baz Bar is the place for impromptu music – Jimmy Buffett has been known to drop in and do a session – and the sushi is very good too.

Lots of people who come here stay in villas – WIMCO and Sibarth are both outfits that offer completely organised and well-stocked houses. Which makes cooking at home a pleasure because the quality of food here is so good. There is top fresh lobster, and fino, a local, pink fatty fish that’s perfect for tartare. You’ll find a great butcher called Boucherie Ché Yo’ in St Jean, just behind the airport, and Le Ti-Marché in L’Orient is the place for passion fruit, avocados and rum from Guadeloupe. There’s an abundance of liquor stores on the island, because there is no tax on alcohol. At Marché U, which is one of the biggest supermarkets, there’s a sommelier and a seriously impressive wine selection – they’ve been known to stock Pétrus.

The shopping here in general is excellent, with some one-offs you’ll not find elsewhere. The leather and pearl bracelets by Mignot and Trésors de St Barth make good gifts. I’m not a smoker, but if you’re into cigars you’ll find them from Cuba – and all over the world, really – at Casa del Habano. And Loulou’s Marine on Gustavia Harbour is a kind of brass-tacks, practical place, full of marine-canvas tote bags and supplies – and some nice Breton shirts.

All of this is wonderful, of course, but I hope that the island stays small. It will never be like the 1970s again, but equally, there will never be a big golf course or a hotel with hundreds of rooms. The island is looking very green again after Irma, finally. And everyone makes you feel so welcome. So it’s still a petite paradise.”

Guest User 9/23/19 Guest User 9/23/19

Duro Olowu’s perfect weekend in London

The Lagos-born womenswear designer, known for his head-turning, print‑led pieces, spends his weekend exploring vintage vinyl and rare textiles and ends it with the perfect martini

“I travel so much – to see my wife Thelma [Golden, The Studio Museum curator], who is based in New York, to Lagos to visit my father and to fabric factories in Italy – that when I’m home at the weekend I treasure just sleeping in my own bed and doing mundane things like laundry.

Even so, I head out early on Saturdays. I live in Ladbroke Grove, and while the area has gentrified since I moved here 17 years ago, it is still full of vendors I’ve known for years. I find it wonderfully reassuring that they are still here, selling high-quality things that never disappoint.

My first stop is either the Golborne Deli or Café O’Porto, for a galão – a milky style of coffee that doesn’t make me too hyper – and a toasted sandwich. Then I’ll wander through Golborne Road market, where I might find beautiful silver cutlery and pieces of mismatched Meissen porcelain. I always stop at Les Couilles du Chien – “The Dog’s Bollocks” – which has a fantastic array of midcentury items by designers such as Giò Ponti; and at Rellik, where I’ve found rare vintage Hermès pieces for Thelma. I’ll also visit Portobello Road’s Rainbow News, an old-school newsagent with all the best fashion and design magazines, before ending up at Charles Vernon-Hunt, which has exquisite books about African art and textiles, and rare and vintage catalogues – all beautifully curated. I have a serious book addiction.

By now I’m laden down, but I’ll make my way to Notting Hill Gate, to the farmers’ market. On the rare occasions that I’m home, I like to cook with good ingredients. My next stop is always Honest Jon’s Records, which sells a mix of funk, dub, jazz and reggae. The clientele is as eclectic as the music, and DJs come from all over the world to listen and learn.

After a lunch at home, I might take the bus to Mayfair for an afternoon at its galleries. David Zwirner and Hauser & Wirth are favourites, but I also love the David Hill space near my home, which puts on interesting exhibitions of under-the-radar contemporary photographers. I collect rare African textiles, so another stop is a tiny shop called Adire Textiles in Alfies Antique Market, which has an incredible collection of late-19th-century to late-20th-century west African pieces.

If Thelma is in town, we have an early supper with friends, either at The Wolseley – where I order the chopped chicken salad – or Ikoyi, a west African fusion restaurant in St James’s. It’s so nice to see this cuisine being done to such a high level.

My doctor once advised me to wake up, take note of where I am and relax – and on Sundays, I take this to extremes. I wake early, but lie in and watch a film – a Billy Wilder or a Visconti. I also call my dad: he’s 89 and it’s nice to start the day with his voice. Then I might visit Holland Park’s Kyoto Garden – a beautiful, zen place – before going for dim sum at Royal China on Queensway, a Sunday tradition. It’s also my museum day so, fully fed, I’ll go to the V&A – the jewellery collections and the Middle Eastern decorative arts rooms are highlights. By 5pm, I need a drink. Dukes Bar is my favourite for one of bar manager Alessandro Palazzi’s legendary martinis. If Thelma is in New York, I’ll call her while I’m making supper – a healthy take on a Nigerian dish. If she’s here, it’s a takeaway of grilled seabass from Fez Mangal near our home, listening to Steely Dan or Michelle Ngdecello, and by 10pm I’m in bed, ready to take on the week.”

Guest User 9/21/19 Guest User 9/21/19

A long weekend in Sardinia with Angela Missoni

The designer’s insider guide to the Italian island. Portrait by Valentina Sommariva

“I’ve been coming with my family to Sardinia for more than 30 years and what I love most is that the island hasn’t changed that much. The quality and colour of the sea, the dramatic landscape, the diving, the variety of beaches both sandy and rocky are of a Caribbean level and beauty. Each region is infused with tradition; it might be one of the last places in Italy where men and women still wear costumes for weddings and special holidays. The richness and detail in the textiles, as well as in the local filigree jewellery, literally changes every 10km. It can make you feel like you’re travelling back in time.

The food changes from region to region as well. The Costa Smeralda – the Emerald Coast on the northeastern part of the island – is largely known for its creamy goat’s and sheep’s milk cheeses, as well as the pork that comes from the surrounding mountains. No one used to live on this coast before the second world war because it was malaria-infested – people tended their herds up in the hills and looked down on the beautiful white-sand beaches and lagoons below. Luckily, the disease is gone and the area has been well preserved, but classic pasta dishes like orecchiette with pork ragù and ravioli stuffed with potatoes and cheese remain island favourites. On the west side of Sardinia, in Cabras, there is a large salt lake, and this is where the famous bottarga – fish roe – comes from. The bottarga di muggine is considered the most delicate, and it’s in many pasta dishes all over the island.

In the northwestern part of the island, in Alghero, you’ll find fishermen who specialise in lobster and tuna. There was a great Spanish influence in this part of Sardinia and surrounding islands such as San Pietro are full of descendants from this part of Europe, as well as from Genoa and Africa. Many of the fishermen still use an old Genoese dialect, and the food is a wonderful mix of all of these cultures.

The area where I live, just south of Olbia, is all about beautiful beaches and nothing else. In the summer there are some tourists, but if you go in the winter, you won’t even be able to buy a coffee or a newspaper – and that’s the beauty of it. A lot of places here were built in the 1960s and ’70s, including the Due Lune hotel. It has four stars, a very high‑end clientele and incredible views of the blue‑green sea and the nine-hole golf course in front. People appreciate the serenity here and the fact that it doesn’t have the sparkling lights of Costa Smeralda. Sardinia’s finest hotels are well‑known – Cala di Volpe, for example, is five-star and fantastic – but for a really special place to stay look to Borgo Lianti, a small rental property in the hills near Porto Rafael, a lovely, authentic village with views out to the Maddalena archipelago. There is also excellent seafood close by at Il Kalamaro in Palau. My number one spot to eat near home is Ristorante da Pasqualina, which serves the best pasta with fresh sea urchin. It’s in a basic, rustic house, so you’d never notice it, but all the food is outstanding. For a more sophisticated setting, I love Il Portolano in Porto San Paolo, where you sit outside and watch the sun set, and the speciality is an amazing crusted tuna.

Archaeological ruins of the 3,000-year-old Phoenician city of Tharros

Ristorante La Tavernetta is another great fish restaurant with a little bar that serves a delicious aperitivo and has fantastic views of the island of Tavolara. This is all national park area, so the scenery is stunning. I’m not particular about drinks, but I will enjoy a Campari Spritz here; it matches the colour of the sunset for one thing. On the island of Tavolara there is a lovely spot for lunch called Ristorante da Tonino Re di Tavolara that’s easily reached by tender or its own water taxi. There you eat simple but perfect spaghetti with clams and mussels and have views of the boats.

The Missonis in Sardinia – the family has taken holidays on the island for the past 30 years

One of my favourite places to eat, though, is Cafè du Port – not least because it’s close to one of my favourite shops, Sigfrido. It is actually two clothing shops – one for men and one for women and children – and we are friends with the couple who own it. Three generations of Missonis buy their clothes here, and even the fourth generation is now wearing its handmade cotton dresses. Foresta G is another wonderful shop that’s owned by a mother and her artist daughter; they create their own prints for summery kaftans. Yashu e Prem is owned by a couple who divide their time between Sardinia and Goa; they produce unique and very beautiful garments in an array of solid shades and wild patterns.

Colourful clothing from Yashu e Prem boutique, San Pantaleo

The best way to see the island, which is quite vast, is by car, as there are only a few roads and there is virtually no traffic, even in August. One village that is worth a detour is San Pantaleo, particularly on Thursdays when there is a market. I tell friends to come here to watch real Sardinian life; have dinner at Ristorante Giagoni in Piazza – a special spot set in a traditional Galluran-stone house on the Piazza della Chiesa, facing the perfect little church; and then stay at Petra Segreta Resort & Spa for the night.

The Balinese spa at Petra Segreta Resort & Spa

September is the best month to be here because the weather is perfect. It’s also the month for special celebrations called Cortes Apertas – or “open courtyards” – in which local people open up their homes to offer regional wines, cheeses and crafts. Everyone dresses in costume and there are festive parades, and while it’s considered more special in certain parts, it is a Sardinia-wide holiday. Even in areas that are typically more insular, such as the high interior, Sardinians are so proud of their heritage that they will invite you in.

Angela Missoni with her daughters, Margherita and Teresa, in Sardinia, 1990

The island has a rich history of migration, as a result of which there is an eclectic mix of archaeological sites; among them are the 3,000-year-old ruins of the Phoenician village of Tharros on the island’s west coast. There is also the incredible National Archaeological Museum in Cagliari, with its collections of pre-history relics, and the Museum of Costume in the inland town of Nuoro. It’s always a hit, as it highlights the island’s unique and very beautiful folkloric clothing.

But it’s the natural beauty that sets Sardinia apart. When friends are here on boat, I always send them to the area around La Maddalena and other nearby islands – Isola Tavolara and Isola Molara. For snorkelling and diving, La Tavolara is the best because of its exceptionally clear waters. It also has numerous hiking trails – I’m not one for early-morning guided walks, but many of the Missoni adventurers are. Piscinas in the southwest, with its white sand dunes, is another place not to be missed – it’s wild and the sea can be rough, but it’s very special. The hotel Le Dune Piscinas has been around for years; it’s right on the beach, very simple and secluded, and the quality of the spaces, rooms and beach are unmatched on this side of the island.

It’s amusing – if you are from another part of Italy, Sardinians often don’t ask if you’re from Milan or Rome or Florence; instead, they say, “Have you come from the Continent?” Because for them, there is the island and then the rest of the world. There are unique traditions here, and a unique sense of pride. I hope that’s true of the island for a long time to come.”

Christina Ohly Evans 9/17/19 Christina Ohly Evans 9/17/19

Touching Down in Cape Town

The question isn't "what should we do?" but "how can we fit it all in?" Foodies, families, party animals — there's something for literally everyone. Contributing editor Christina Ohly breaks down your many, many options.

CAPE TOWN, South Africa – Picture the perfect mix of Los Angeles, San Franciso, and Napa Valley — with a little Bilbao thrown in for good cultural measure — and you've got Cape Town and the Winelands. It's pretty much the perfect destination for a foodie (copious amounts of fresh fish and global cuisine) who also loves nice weather, nature, and great design. The town is still abuzz after its starring role in the 2010 World Cup, and there is so much to learn about, from wildlife (playful penguins at Boulders Beach) to history (tours of the townships, where your eyes will be opened to the way millions of South Africans live in the face of incredible adversity).

Cape Town is a city with style and edge. Partiers will love the Ibiza-like vibe at al fresco beach clubs and restaurants, where the Veuve flows freely and an entire cosmopolitan world whizzes by. At the same time, the trip proved ideal for my children (ages nine and ten), who loved the hiking, cheetah-petting, and the ever-popular hotel swimming pool. The holiday was meaningful (though not in a museum-filled sort of way) and completely relaxing at the same time.

A cable car climbing Table Mountain. Photo: flowcomm / Flickr — *A cable car climbing Table Mountain. Photo:* flowcomm / Flickr

WHAT TO DO

As I said, your biggest challenge will be paring down the itinerary. Outdoor enthusiasts go for big surf and challenging hikes, while aesthetes hit the design-centric shops in Cape Quarter. History and wildlife are everywhere. The best part is that you can sample a little of everything, making for days that are always varied.

LOOK
Table Mountain is a must for anyone not prone to vertigo. A seriously steep cable car whisks large groups to the top of a spectacular rock formation which has incredible views of the ocean, football stadiums, and flowering plants.

HIKE
Lion's Head also has spectacular vistas — onto Table Bay, the Atlantic Ocean, and Robben Island in the distance. This is a manageable three-hour hike (with stops), though not ideal for small children due to several steep pitches.

Robben Island Museum. Photo: wirelizard / Flickr — *Robben Island Museum. Photo:* *wirelizard* */ Flickr*

LEARN
Robben Island Museum, the former prison that once held Nelson Mandela, bills itself as a "poignant reminder to the newly democratic South Africa and the price paid to freedom." You'll learn about the Cape's complicated political history and the anti-apartheid activists who were jailed here. How poignant is it? Many tour guides are former prisoners. The island can be accessed by ferry from the Victoria & Albert Waterfront.

LEARN SOME MORE
A tour of a township is one of the few absolute must-dos in Cape Town. These are not designed to be depressing, begging-bowl routes or guilt trips. One of the best private operators, Uthando Tours, works with children's music and dance groups, women's gardening collectives, and prisoner rehabilitation projects that are making life better for all. Truly inspiring.

An African penguin at Boulders Bay Beach. Photo: jorge-11 / Flickr — *An African penguin at Boulders Bay Beach. Photo:* *jorge-11* */ Flickr*

GET WITH NATURE
Boulders Bay Beach is worth the quick trip from the center of town for the endearing African penguins that frolic freely on pristine beaches. In warmer months, you can swim. Add a stop in quaint Simon's Town for ice cream and local beadwork shops.

SURF
At Surf Shack in nearby Muizenberg, the waves break (relatively) gently, making it a perfect spot to take up the sport. Just beware the ominous shark warning flags that are frequently posted along these coastlines. Shark spotters — often located in central lookout points — add a whole level of excitement to local water sports.

EAT, DRINK, AND BE MERRY
And do so amid mountain ranges, sprawling vineyards, and beautiful Cape Dutch-style homesteads. Stellenbosch, in the heart of wine country, is worth a detour. Don't miss lunch at the Delaire Graff Restaurant. Franschhoek is considered the gourmet capital of South Africa. French Huguenot style abounds, not to mention farm-to-table eating at every turn in this part of the world. Another regional best bet is Babylonstoren, an eight acre garden/stylish inn that is a fresh food paradise. (Read more about this incredible place in another Fathom postcard.)

SHOP

Cape Town is an epicenter of great design, artisinal craftwork, and homemade foods of all kinds. The Bo Kaap and Cape Quarter areas are bursting with boutiques that cater to an aesthetically-minded crowd. Nap Living is a Zen sanctuary that sells homewares like bath salts to delectable fudge. Find African-made clothing at Merchants on Long. Stock up on baskets, beadwork, and ceramics at African Nova and Monkey Biz. Head to the hip Woodstock area for an exquisite selection of art, antique, and decorative objects at O.live (8 Kloof St; +27-21-426-5773).

Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden. Photo: dkeats / Flickr — *Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden. Photo:* *dkeats* */ Flickr*

WITH THE KIDS

While virtually everything is casual and kid-friendly in Cape Town, there are a few spots that are not to be missed, especially when the family is in tow.

HANDS-ON FUN
Children of all ages will go crazy for the Cheetah and Raptor Centre at Spier, where they can learn about these magnificent cats and even pet the more docile ones. At The Eagle Encounters, a bird of prey rehabilitation, education, and conservation program, children can feel raptors alight on their arms (best for kids older than seven) and watch dancing barn owls sway to local tunes. Bonus: Spier is a world-class wine with a casual restaurant, Eight, that serves delicious food.

GO GREEN
Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, regarded as one of the most beautiful in the world, is the perfect place to let children run free amidst 7,000 different species of flora. While the gardens are lush year-round, the best time to visit for maximum plants in flower is in spring and early summer (August-November).

WHERE TO STAY

Cape Town is a city that is easily explored on foot, so a central location is key. There are several good bets for families, as well as smaller, stylish places that are perfect for couples or solo travelers.

Cape Grace Hotel
Set on a private quay on the bustling Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, the hotel has an ideal mix of top-notch service, rooms that look across the harbor in all directions, and the all-important swimming pool (especially during the warmer summer months). It is newer in feel, and the amenities — kitchenettes, great laundry service, massive terrace — make for a successful, smooth stay.

The Mount Nelson Hotel
The hotel remains old-school, with 209 rooms overlooking Table Mountain, lush gardens, or the hotel pool. Restored garden cottage suites work well for couples seeking a hidden retreat; superior one-bedroom suites are perfect for families. Nine acres of gardens and proximity to Two Oceans Aquarium make the hotel great for kids.

The Cape Heritage Hotel
There's a wonderful mix of South African history throughout the recently-renovated rooms, along with enormous, high-ceilinged suites, state-of-the-art bathrooms, and a sweet trellised courtyard. The hotel is all about social responsibility: They participate in mentoring programs for at-risk kids and support local producers and craftspeople.

Cape Cadogan
A tiny gem of a boutique hotel that perfectly mixes history with contemporary, chic accents. This place is very high-touch, almost like staying in a tasteful friend's home.

One & Only Cape Town
Centrally located and probably the slickest game town with excellent dining options (Nobu and Maze restaurants) and incredible spa offerings (Elevate massages, yoga classes).

WHERE TO EAT

You just can't go wrong. From delicious sushi and Italian specialties to local Cape cuisine, the emphasis is on fresh ingredients and plates that please both the palate and the eye. You'll find universal favorites almost everwhere: the ubiquitous Caesar salad, California rolls, fish and chips, thin crust pizzas — all slightly reimagined and all delicious — as well as Dutch and Afrikaans-inspired dishes.

Harbour House
Their newest outpost is located directly on the Victoria & Alfred waterfront, and an outdoor table is a great spot for watching boats and buskers. Best described as a modern fusion, the menu ranges from light pastas and maki rolls for kids to freshly grilled Kingklip, a local fish delicacy.

Live Bait
A casual open-air bistro on a pier in quaint Kalk Bay, overlooking the water and the basking seals below. The lunch menu is perfect for a light bite: catches of the day, prawn cocktail, inventive signature salads, and freshly shucked oysters. As with most restaurants in South Africa, there really is something for everyone.

The Grand Café & Beach
Just a five-minute walk from town on Granger Bay, this is the place to people-wach (seriously leggy blondes in strappy sandals) and enjoy a varied menu of seafood, wood-fired pizzas, and a dessert sampler that I'm still recovering from (indigenous fruits, popsicles, chocolates). The place feels a bit like Ibiza. Kids can frolic with an enormous disco ball in the sand. Good times.

The Bungalow
Located in scenic Clifton, just a few miles outside of town, the relative newcomer is exactly what traevlers from wintry, dark clime seek: a sprawling outdoor deck overlooking the sea, an incredibly cheerful wait staff, and a little techno/house overlay in the background. It's a restaurant by evening, but turns into a full-on club in the wee hours. Go for the top-knotch burgers with guacamole and brie, vanilla-smoked butterfish, and the view.

Babylonstoren
If I had my way, Babylonstoren would serve me my last meal on earth. Set in the Winelands, the innovative farm/restaurant/small inn is a perfect mix of fresh produce, imaginative cuisine, and tasteful minimalist out-buildings that meld seamlessly into the landscape. Stroll the expansive gardens before drinking freshly squeezed juices, delving into salads of all tastes and colors — red (slow-roasted tomato, crisp wild rice, pomegranate), yellow (spekboom, melon, sweetcorn), and green (spinach chiffonade, minted zucchini ribbons) — not to mention the most succulent, locally farmed lamb cutlets that will ever pass your lips. I am still in awe of this place, and I'm pretty sure Alice Waters would be, too. Miraculously, it's remarkably inexpensive, and they cater to kids (a French fry is a French fry, organic or not).

95 Keeron
Delicious tuna tartare, carpaccios of beef and line fish, and grilled ostrich filet are all on the menu at the minimalist, Milanese favorite. The brick-and-wood interior with warm, natural lighting, it´s a vibrant (though relaxing) spot with a bit of buzz.

Bistro Sixteen82
A glass-and-light-filled, Zen oasis at Steenberg Vineyards in Constantia Valley with views of False Bay in the distance. Savor plum tomato gazpacho, summer vegetable capellini, locally cured meats, and a killer carrot cake "composition" for dessert. The kids menu is so good that parents will happily devour any/all of it.

The Roundhouse
A former hunting lodge overlooking beautiful Camps Bay where they serve a feast of tapas and local specialties like fallow deer, cob, and guinea fowl sausage. The cuisine is refined South African with modern European twists, and the atmosphere is laid back enough to keep from feeling oppressive. Oenophiles will love this one for its extensive cellar and unique pairings.

Other Good Bets
Il Leone Mastrantonio for great Italian.
Greenhouse at Cellars for imaginative tasting menus in an intimate setting.
Café Paradiso for kids' pizza-making programs.
Test Kitchen for creative takes on traditional Cape cuisine.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

When To Go
Cape Town enjoys a sunny, mild climate year-round, but it is at its very best between November and March, when the days are long and dry.

How To Get There
South African Airways and British Airways both offer nightly non-stop flights direct to Cape Town International Airport (CPT), and South African Airways also has flights from New York to Johannesberg with connections to Cape Town on local carriers.

Great Guides and Planners
India Baird (+27-0-82-734-4569): An American civil rights lawyer, foodie, and outdoorswoman who gave us lots of local color and insider knowledge.
Lisa Lindbald Travel Design: Based in New York with a knack for arranging the best tours, operators, and in-country flights.
Ilios Tours: For Table Mountain tours, transfers, and more specifics.

Guest User 9/8/19 Guest User 9/8/19

Julien Pruvost’s perfect weekend in Paris

The celebrated “nose” and creative director of Cire Trudon has invigorated France’s oldest luxury candlemaker, introducing “genderless” perfumes and taking its power to evoke time and place into adventurous new territory

Julien Pruvost by the Seine | Image: Thomas Chene

“My weekends are hyperactive – with or without our four kids –and Saturdays always involve sport, so I start the day in training gear. Mornings are for errands. I bike to the Left Bank to stock up on fresh fruit and veg at the Maubert outdoor market. I like supporting organic flower producers, so I buy bundles of peonies – the lush, blood-red ones from southeast France that my wife Stéphanie loves.

I rarely indulge in sugar and carbs, but the croissants from La Maison d’Isabelle, supposedly the best in Paris, are worth it. Then I’ll go to CrossFit to work out or do some yoga. Another passion is rock climbing, so I like to take the kids, who range in age from nine to 14, to MurMur in Pantin, where we’ll climb using ropes.

For lunch, we’ll head to La Chaise au Plafond in the Marais. The owner, Xavier Denamur, is a food militant in the best way: he is pro-local and pro-organic and all his food is from the best sources. His beef tartare and pommes frites are excellent, as are the goat’s cheese salad and tarte Tatin. After lunch, I’ll visit the Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville nearby: it has the ultimate hardware store in the basement, where I find little gadgets for the house. Then we might go to the movies, perhaps at the Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand in the 13th arrondissement, which also has a wonderful exhibition space.

I am a big snacker, which means that by mid-afternoon I am ready for a galette from my favourite spot, a crêperie called Breizh on the Rue Vielle du Temple. I always order a salty galette made with buckwheat, spinach and eggs. If I have guests in town, I might take them to Méert, a family-owned chocolate shop from Lille that sells the most delicious little buttercream-filled waffles – ludicrous for your health but so charming.

If we eat out, it’s at the Grand Cœur for fennel and orange salads and simple fish with no fussy sauces, or at Il Quadrifoglio, where they make a superb gluten-free pizza topped with organic tomatoes and cheese. If there’s a concert on at the Philharmonie – in a Jean Nouvel building at the edge of the city – it’s always worth the trip. While we don’t go out for drinks too often, a special Saturday night involves the bar at the Hôtel de Crillon, which attracts a young, eclectic, local crowd.

On Sunday, Stéphanie and I will often cycle to the Gare de Lyon, put our bikes on the train and go to Fontainebleau for a scenic tour – without an itinerary. We like to get lost. Or we’ll park our bikes and do some climbing before returning home to oversee the kids’ homework. Later we’ll stroll along the Seine, from the Tuileries to the Bastille, for some people-watching and an ice cream. Then we might visit an exhibition. The Museum of Hunting and Nature is a hidden gem, and while I don’t support hunting, it has an incredible mix of contemporary art, historic objects, tapestries and sculptures. It’s poetic – like travel for the mind.

There is a saying in France that means “Sunday evenings are gloomy”, and Stéphanie and I do our best to fight this feeling. For fun, we might show up at a friend’s house unannounced with a bottle of rosé, or we’ll listen to a podcast such as Nova [Mix] Club or the Joe Rogan Experience. If I’m tired, it means I’ve done everything I wanted, so it’s mission accomplished.”

Guest User 8/28/19 Guest User 8/28/19

Roksanda Ilincic’s favourite digital detox destination

The designer heads for the Montenegro countryside of her childhood

“Like a lot of people, I’m too attached to my phone. If I’m in transit or away from my desk, I’m texting and emailing. I have my own company, so people expect 24/7 access; switching is always going to be hard – but I make a real effort to do it, for quality time with my husband and my eight-year-old daughter. I can go a full week without a phone or social media, and do; it just takes an enormous amount of advance preparation.

The place I go to shut down and reflect is Montenegro. When I am surrounded by beautiful nature and the Adriatic, I don’t want to be in communication – not with work emails, not with Instagram. I am there to be in that moment, with my family. And I want to make sure my daughter has a real sense of her Serbian roots.

Fashion designer Roksanda Ilincic | Image: Getty Images

My parents have a little house in Ada Bojana, in southern Montenegro where the sea merges with the river. It has always been a very, very hippy, rustic part of the country. There’s even a nude beach – it adds to the laidback atmosphere. They bought the land to escape the bustle of city life, and it’s still very untouched. It’s in a dense forest, so is cool and shady. We use it as our base for exploring the surrounding mountain villages, beaches and the many bays. I read; I eat in all of the little local restaurants that I grew up with. But mostly I love to just spend time with my parents; the undivided attention makes them especially happy.

With only my camera, we’ll drive to Skader Lake, which is an ideal spot to rent a boat. There are beautiful lilies that line the shore, and also unusual bird species. The place, the whole experience, is very meditative.

For friends looking for a detox – digital or otherwise – I often recommend Aman Sveti Stefan, set in a 15th-century fishing village overlooking the Adriatic Sea. It is very understated and one of Montenegro’s real treasures. From here you can sail or hike in Lovcen National Park. It’s the perfect place to detach and decompress.

Many of the towns in Montenegro are high in the mountains, where the soil is better for farming. I visited a remote village last summer – it was a steep 45-minute walk up, and totally off the grid – and met a wonderful granny who still lives there despite the village being almost abandoned. She offered us coffee at the end of our hike, a traditional welcome in this country; and I loved hearing her stories. I didn’t have a phone with me, so I was totally focused on the moment – really able to absorb the setting and the being back to basics with zero distractions.

I’ve had to teach myself to unplug over the years. Like anyone running their own business, I am reliant on the people I hire, and it has taken a lot of practice to convince myself things won’t fall apart when I’m away and offline. Returning to the office is a different story; there is never an easing back in, it’s full-on back to work. But I feel refreshed and ready for it. And usually I don’t feel like I’ve missed anything.”

Guest User 8/18/19 Guest User 8/18/19

Sease: Italian yachtwear with high-fashion heritage ahoy

This Milan destination store harbours stylish, high-tech sailing kit that’s perfectly suited for both the regatta circuit and the streets of Mayfair

Its name is a portmanteau of “sea” and “ease” – a neat way to sum up this Milanese boutique’s stylish own-brand sailing gear, linked to one of the most illustrious names in Italian textiles – that of Loro Piana. The famed fabric house was founded in 1924 by Pietro Loro Piana; two years ago his nephew’s grandsons, brothers Franco and Giacomo, struck out on their own to create Sease. “Our clothing is for people who spend their free time in nature,” says Franco. “They wear our designs on the water or off-piste – and return to the city and wear them on the back of a scooter.”

All the clothing at Sease is produced with sustainability in mind | Image: Valentina Sommariva

Leveraging their fashion heritage alongside an inherited love of boats (their father, Loro Piana deputy chairman Pier Luigi, hosts – and often races in – the annual Loro Piana Superyacht Regatta in Sardinia), the duo have created what Franco calls a “360-degree lifestyle brand”. It’s a combination of performance kit and exquisitely made leisurewear that appeals to serious sailors – Dario Noseda, who crossed the Atlantic solo in his 7m Starboat, and Luca Bassani, founder of Wally Yachts, are both ardent fans – as well as bankers and architects “who are demanding about quality and design detail”. They come to the refined Brera district shop for signature pieces such as the tailored High Pressure spray top (€895) and the Upwind windbreaker (€1,095), which, in rich shades of navy and brick red, are among Sease’s most functional, fashionable makes.

The fabrics are, of course, key, and hew to the traditional. “Everything is made in Italy and we use mostly natural fibres,” says Franco. “They aren’t as hardcore as techno-nylon fabrics, but sometimes our garments outperform the sports brands.” Linen shorts (€450), for instance, are reinforced with Kevlar for maximum durability, polyester is often recycled and the Sunrise fabric combines wool with bio-based nylon – “treated with an innovative hydrophilic membrane that is resistant to water and wind”, Franco explains, and used on the smart hooded George jacket (€1,350). Sustainability isn’t an afterthought at Sease, says Giacomo: “We love the outdoors – our business is built around the mountains and the sea – and we’re committed to a low-impact, environmentally sensitive supply chain.”

Everything is showcased with aplomb in a two-storey, nautically inspired space, where the teak, carbon and canvas finishes synonymous the world over with boating abound. At every turn the Sease mantra of “elegance with functionality” is evident, from the tables of T-shirts (€130) and reversible cashmere jumpers (€750), all in a tasteful, subdued colour palette, to the racks of wool/cashmere Skipper sweatshirts (€550) and denim piqué polo shirts (€195). There are accessories, too, including sunglasses (€450) from LGR and solar-powered backpacks (€495), while a DJ booth and the odd Frescobol Carioca wooden skateboard (€980) add to the modern, masculine vibe of this shop “where you’re encouraged to hang out”.

Guest User 8/14/19 Guest User 8/14/19

The Gilded Age Fantasy Is Alive and Thriving at Blantyre

Special Covid-19 travel considerations: The hotel is following all Covid-19 guidelines for safety and cleanliness, and is open to guests from Wednesday though Saturday night. Cafe Boulud at Blantyre is serving dinner from Wednesday through Sunday and brunch on weekends. Breakfasts are all in-room; lunches are boxed and served poolside or picnic-style on the grounds. Pianist Karèn Tchougourian is not performing this summer. As for area attractions, Tanglewood took its music program online this summer, and while the museums are reopening, it's a smart idea to call ahead before you venture out.

Blantyre
Lenox, Massachusetts
Opulent, $$$$ (from $645)

At the turn of the 20th century, when the well-heeled needed a place to rest their heads as they shuttled between seasons in New York, Palm Beach, and Newport, they settled on a wooded area of the Berkshires where the spring and fall temperatures were just right. (You know how the well-heeled are...)

Today, only a dozen of these Gilded Age "cottages" remain, including Blantyre, a country resort and estate just outside Lenox, Massachusetts, which is now under new ownership. You're welcome to come for a visit and pretend that time is standing gloriously still.

I spent a weekend here in June with my husband and friends, imagining this beautiful Tudor House, with its perfectly appointed decor — crystal carafes set for wine, elaborate chandeliers, and overstuffed sofas — was all mine. I totally indulged my fantasy of living in an Edith Wharton novel.

The Main Hall.

The Terrace.

Days began with long breakfasts on the Terrace overlooking the gardens and surrounding countryside; afternoons were whiled away reading, sunbathing, and swimming in the pool; dinner was a tasting menu in the Conservatory. I had a terrific facial at the Blantryre spa. We took a lazy trip into Lenox to stroll around town. On a tour of the estate, in-house historian David Pupo regaled me with stories of former owners (including filmmaker D.W. Griffith) and the antics the house has seen. With more time we would have gone to a concert under the stars at Tanglewood: It's another reason to come back.

After dinner came my favorite part of the day, sitting in the Music Room, listening to Karèn Tchougourian, the long-haired Vampire Lestat-looking pianist, playing across the room as I help myself to glass after glass of the port left out for guests to help themselves. (I'm told he is an empath who can intuit what you want to hear. I'm ready to call bullshit when he starts playing the Cole Porter tune I had just been thinking. I do my best not to start singing along, but I can't help myself. I blame the port.)

About that new owner: Linda Law is a San Francisco-based real estate developer who first saw Blantyre when she was a graduate student in Boston. One day, she thought to herself, I will own this place. If you see her around the house, stop for a chat. She's lively and lovely, and under her care, Blantyre's illustrious past will continue into a bright future.

Book It

Rates change seasonally and start at $645. Click here for reservations. Or get in touch with the Fathom Travel Concierge and we can plan your trip for you.

The Music Room.

A rear view of the Manor House.

Checking In

Location
Blantyre is located on a beautiful, wooded 110-acre estate in the part of the Berkshires Mountains that's all green rolling hills and genteel countryside. The cute town of Lenox is an easy ten-minute drive away.

Hotel Style
Gilded Age glory. This is the place to unleash your inner robber baron and pretend you've earned a spot on Mrs. Astor's list of 400.

This Place Is Perfect For
Couples, especially from the northeast, who want a romantic getaway for a few days.

But Not So Perfect For
Families. This is an adults-only operation. No children under 16 are allowed.

The Bistro.

The Conservatory.

The Wine Cellar.

What’s on Site
The ground floor of the main building, the Tudor-style Manor House, has the opulent lobby, outdoor Terrace, Music Room, Bistro, and Conservatory restaurant. The second floor has eight bedrooms; the basement is home to a massive wine cellar with more than 7,000 bottles, which is available for special events. (Once upon a time, the basement was also home to a speakeasy and a nightclub. If those brick-lined walls could talk...) Books — shelves and stacks of them — are everywhere, lining the upstairs hallways and neatly arranged in the Music Room. The pool and spa are located a leisurely walk or bike ride slightly downhill, past the Carriage House and Cottages. Also on the property are a tennis court, a croquet pitch, and Tesla charging station. Look for the statue of the bear in the woods on the drive up from the main entrance. It's really too cute.

Food + Drink
Food is very important to Blantyre's DNA: The hotel was the first Relais & Château property in North America. New for summer 2020 is Cafe Boulud at Blantyre, which will be serving a $78 prix-fixe dinner and two- or three-course prix fixe weekend brunch in the gorgeous Conservatory from Wednesday through Sunday until mid-October. Chef Daniel Boulud and his team have crafted a local, seasonal menu with a French accent: garlic roasted chicken with summer bean fricassee; a Frenchie Burger with confit pork belly, Morbier cheese, and tomato-onion jam; and heirloom tomato salad with basil-sunflower pesto. Breakfasts will be delivered in-room; lunch will be served poolside or picnic-style throughout the property. The bar attached to the Conservatory, deemed The Most Beautifully Designed Bar in Massachusetts by Architectural Digest, serves Gilded Age-inspired cocktails.

The Laurel Suite.

The Blue Room.

The Crimson Suite.

Cottage by the Path.

The Loft Suite in the Carriage House.

A Loft Suite in the Carriage House.

Number of Rooms
24 rooms in all. The eight in the Manor House are decorated in classic, Gilded Age style, in keeping with the decor on the ground floor: four-poster beds, period paintings, patterned textiles in the curtains and fluffy pillows. The rooms in the Carriage House are more contemporary. The stand-alone Cottages are primarily traditional in style and a great option for families.

Standout Detail
The ground floor of the Manor House, and especially the Music Room. And if you're curious, and you should be, see if you can get an estate tour from David Pupo, the director of membership and concierge services who does double duty as the in-house historian. He's been coming to the estate since he was a local kid swimming in the pool.

The pool and spa.

Outside Riverview cottage.

The entrance.

Checking Out

What to Do Nearby
The nearby town of Lenox is cute and preppy, as expected for this part of the world, with everything concentrated into a few walkable blocs: a great local bookstore, The Bookstore and Get Lit Wine Bar, a bar with an outdoor patio (The Olde Heritage Tavern), and a tapas restaurant (Brava). The clothes and housewares in most of the shops were nothing to get excited about, with two extremely stylish exceptions: Design Menagerie and MacKimmie Co.

The surrounding Berkshires are rich with cultural offerings. Tanglewood, the summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, has an extensive and accessible program through August (translation: tickets are easy to get); the new Tanglewood Learning Institute offers year-round programming of lectures, films, and performances. Also nearby: MASS MoCA, The Clark, Jacob's Pillow, and the Norman Rockwell Museum. I've saved the best for last: The Mount, Edith Wharton's former house and gardens, which is a few miles down the road.

Plan Your Trip

How to Get There: Albany International Airport is one hour away; Boston's Logan Airport is just over two hours away.

Getting Around: You'll want a car to explore the area. The surroundings make for a really lovely drive.

Guest User 7/30/19 Guest User 7/30/19

The Aesthete: Christine Nagel talks personal taste

The creator of scents for Guerlain, Jo Malone and Armani is the first female head perfumer at Hermès

My personal style signifier is a Slim d’Hermès watch that is the perfect expression of who I am. It is a big masculine watch in silver, and I alternate between brown and black leather straps. I love the simplicity of this piece. €5,650; hermes.com.

Nagel’s Slim d’Hermès watch, €5,650 | Image: Emmanuel Fradin

The last thing I bought and loved was a pair of traditional Venetian slippers in midnight-blue velvet. They are chic and, more importantly, are completely comfortable and can be worn with everything from jeans to more tailored pants. Dittura Massimo slippers, from €35; ditturamassimo.it.

And the things I’m eyeing next are Pierre de Ronsard rose bushes and a trellis for the garden at my country home in Calvados. These old-fashioned pink and white climbing roses bloom well into the autumn.

If I didn’t live in Paris, I would live in Normandy, near Deauville and Trouville. It’s the sea that I can’t live without, but the surrounding countryside is gorgeous too. I love the little markets, especially the fish market in Trouville, and this part of the world just feels very small and separate. L’Etoile des Mers is one of the best places for fresh, inventive lunches and the proprietress has a big personality that adds to the fun. For an excellent selection of clothing – just like Paris's Leclaireur but unknown – I love the Anne boutique. Everything it carries – especially designs by Laurence Bras – suits me perfectly, so there’s almost no need to shop in the city. Anne, 26 Rue Gambetta, 14800 Deauville (anne-deauville.fr). L’Etoile des Mers, 74 Rue Gambetta, 14800 Deauville (+332-1463 1018).

An object I would never part with is a reproduction of Rodin’s hand called Main dite de “Pianiste” . I bought this little sculpture 25 years ago and I think it’s symbolic of craftsmanship and creativity. I’m part Italian and tend to talk with my hands, so this piece is very special to me.

Nagel’s reproduction of Main dite de “Pianiste” by Rodin | Image: Emmanuel Fradin

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the Garden of Eden on the island of Giudecca in Venice. This secret garden, which is closed to the public, was planted by an Englishman in the late 1800s, and it’s still full of jasmine, orange blossom, magnolia, rose – all mixed with the salty Venetian air. It is such a simple, beautiful place and I had an immediate emotional response to it – so much so that I created a fragrance, Un Jardin sur la Lagune, that reflects its blooms throughout the seasons. Hermès Un Jardin sur la Lagune, £89 for 100ml EDT; hermes.com.

Vegetable tartare at L’Arpège in Paris | Image: Arpège

A recent “find” is the new Eataly in Le Marais. This Italian grocery concept store is very new to Paris, and I love its range of diverse yet simple products. In addition to buying delicious cheeses and pastas, it’s fun to just people-watch here. My mother is Italian, so I’m nostalgic for really good Italian ingredients. 37 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004 Paris (eataly.net).

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Alain Passard's Arpège. He creates vegetable dishes using produce from his organic gardens in incredibly inventive ways. I’m always surprised – last time it was by the sugary tomatoes, a vegetarian tartare and truffles that were in season. Passard always intrigues me with dishes that are not only good for the tastebuds but for the nose as well. 84 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris (alain-passard.com).

My favourite website is Husqvarna, a site that is all about my lawnmower, a current obsession. I also read The Business of Fashion, Le Monde, Le Figaro and The Washington Post for the news of the day. businessoffashion.com. husqvarna.com. lefigaro.fr. lemonde.fr. washingtonpost.com.

Guest User 7/26/19 Guest User 7/26/19

Cutter Brooks: a charming lifestyle shop in rural England

An eclectic boutique lined with New York-cool fashion finds and artisanal homewares is putting a bucolic Cotswolds village on the style map

One look at the historic 17th-century building in bucolic Stow-on-the-Wold and Amanda Cutter Brooks was sold. “It seemed like a complete money pit, but I loved it,” says the former fashion director of Barneys New York, who lives with her artist husband and two children on nearby Fairgreen Farm. “It took a year to bring the space back to its original form.” The self-described American Anglophile has paired the weathered-oak beams with soft-pink walls to lend it a “feminine feel, but not too girly”.

Traditional basketry, £100-£300, by Jenny Crisp | Image: Sam Pelly

Since May last year, Cutter Brooks’ eponymous eclectic boutique has enticed a mix of locals, weekenders from Soho Farmhouse and tourists from further afield – primarily Asians and Americans – with its curated clothing and housewares. “I embrace the English countryside style and craftsmanship,” says Cutter Brooks, highlighting the delicate fabric flowers (£100-£350) made exclusively for the shop by her neighbour Silka Rittson-Thomas and the traditional basketry (£100-£300) by Jenny Crisp, who has been growing and weaving her own willow in Herefordshire for over 30 years. “But I also incorporate things from my travels,” she adds, noting a selection of decorative items that includes Indian hand-block-printed napkins (£40 for six) and sisal placemats (£25 each), made by a group of women in Swaziland, as well as découpage trays (£124) by fellow American John Derian – “an old friend whose work somehow feels very English, and is a huge seller for us”.

There’s a strong New York component to Cutter Brooks’ fashion buys, too, with the flowing designs by Ulla Johnson (tiered Claribel dress, £415) and LoveShackFancy (embroidered cotton dress, £520) offset by Khaite’s more tailored pieces (tweedy walking shorts, £620) – and all bought in very limited quantities. “My customers appreciate I stock things you won’t find easily elsewhere,” says Cutter Brooks, whose closer-to-home buys range from The Tweed Project – “two Irish girls from Galway I discovered on Instagram” creating summery linen petticoat dresses (£380) and cropped, fringed Aran sweaters (£650) – to Florentine nightwear specialist Loretta Caponi, whose cotton voile “granny nighties” (£350) in pastel shades are “old-school, smocked and very Shakespeare in Love”. Cheerful accessories run from chic canvas tool bags (£495) by Paris label L/Uniform – hand-stamped with monograms by Cutter Brooks – and hair ties (£60-£150) repurposed from Hermès, Liberty and Gucci scarves by Copenhagen’s Line Sander Johansen.

“At first, I think a lot of locals were sceptical about this project,” says Cutter Brooks, whose most precious pieces are the limited edition porcelain blackberry branch sculptures (£2,800-£7,900) by Ukraine-born artist Vladimir Kanevsky. “I’ve certainly made a few mistakes – selling resort fashion in December in the English countryside was pretty much a bust – but I think we’ve found our place now. When people visit and say, ‘It’s so warm and cosy here – and the coffee is great,’ I know I’m doing something right.”