Now Do This: Best Travel Deals, Steals & News 2017

This is the 2017 edition of Now Do This, our monthly compendium of timely travel deals and special offers. The current edition is here.

Updated 12/20/17:

If you forgot to make year-end holiday plans, we found a few options still left. Where is Team Fathom spending their holidays? It's a mix. Half of us are in Australia, Singapore, San Miguel de Allende, and Peru; half of us are staying home and catching up on piles of novels, which is itself its own vacation. Whatever you do, have a great one.

TRIPS TO BOOK

Spain: Nestled among Spain's Rhonda mountains is the extremely dreamy La Donaira, an eco-certified horse farm with impeccable design details. The serene nine-room resort has five deluxe accommodations available over Christmas. Rates are 400€ per person per night and include all breakfasts, special holiday lunches and dinners, drinks and snacks in between meals, bicycles (cycling is big here) and the spa (indoor swimming pool, sauna, Turkish bath).

London and Paris: Paris Perfect, the apartment rental company we've covered before, and their UK counterpart London Perfect have deals for up to 25% off for Christmas and New Year's stays. Check Google Flights for the cheapest airfare, and you're off.

Rome: Get the new year off to an Eternal City start at Baglioni Hotel Regina. The NYE gala party will include live jazz, a big Italian dinner with big Italian drinks, a magic show, and a DJ after midnight. The three-night stay in a deluxe room starts at 2,850€. Email reservations.reginaroma@baglionihotels.com to book.

Worldwide with Kimpton: Beginning at 12 a.m. EST on New Year's Day, would-be guests at Viceroy hotels will have 72 hours to book discounts from 30% or more on properties in LA, SF, NY (45% on Viceroy Central Park), Chicago, Riviera Maya, and Abu Dhabi. Ski bums and snowbirds can take 20% off hotels in Snowmass and Saint Lucia.

Hampsire, England: Fancy a wintry jaunt to the English countryside? The Pig at Brockenhurst is offering a winter treat: you, plus one, on a midweek stay with breakfast and a souvenir bottle of house vino, for just £139. Valid January-February 2018, excluding hols, as Brits like to call them.

Saanenland, Switzerland: For those who want to enjoy the snow without actually playing in it, glam ski hideaway Gstaad Palace has a new offering called Between Heaven and Earth — lunch by helicopter over the Matterhorn, one of the highest mountains in the Alps.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

I'm just back from the Bahamas, where I stayed at the new Baha Mar, a mega resort with a Grand Hyatt, a very chic SLS, and a soon-to-open Rosewood Hotel. On-site were countless pools, a tasty conch shack, and a big casino where I met killer lady dealers. But I was most impressed by a tour of studios and gallery of The Current, the hotel's curated program dedicated to Bahamian art and culture, led by local artist Steffon Grant. Quiet Harbour Island was more my speed, and I had a hard time leaving Bahama House, the new eleven-room compound from Eleven Experiences. I'll be back: I didn't drink enough mango daiquiris at Sip Sip, the legendary lunch restaurant. — Pavia, CEO

Earlier this month, I spent the most visually satisfying day in southern Connecticut, where I walked the rolling hills of Grace Farms, enjoyed a long lunch at the festively decorated Terrain, and toured The Inn at GrayBarns on the Silvermine River, followed by drinks at the cozy new restaurant. – Berit, editor

I spent early December in the French Alps (they're already covered in snow) for the grand opening of oh-so-stylish Club Med Grand Massif Samoëns Morillon. I hadn't done the all-inclusive thing since I was a kid, but it made my trip so, so easy, which was especially gratifying during this crazy time of year. I'm still pretty sore, but not sure if it's from all-day skiing or all-night dancing. – Kim, contributing writer

HOTEL INTEL

Last week we rounded up our top hotel openings of late 2017, including a new luxury tented safari camp in Sri Lanka, a stylish boutique hotel in Copenhagen, and a neo-gothic castle in the Irish countryside. It’s time to start planning your 2018 vacations.

Tennessee's most luxurious hotel, Blackberry Farm, has broken ground on a new property called Blackberry Mountain. Set among 5,200 acres of wild land, the hotel will fuse the fine dining they're already famous for and modern comforts with a rustic and adventurous mountain setting. The hotel is scheduled to open in February 2019, and we can't wait.

The making of a Hudson-inspired camera bag. Photo courtesy of Zio & Sons.

Updated 11/15/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

Zambia: Spend your holidays in one of Africa’s last unspoiled wilderness regions. The Bushcamp Company is offering 30% off six-night stays at the award-winning Mfuwe Lodge as well as the recently renovated Kapamba and Zungulila Bushcamps. Priced at $2,100 per person and valid from December 1, 2017 - January 15, 2018. Mention “festive offer” at checkout.

Brooklyn, New York: Cook Space is a gorgeous and approachable culinary school offering an array of classes that range from dim sum and Vietnamese street food to Ayurvedic cooking. Receive a 15% discount when you signup for a class on Black Friday or Cyber Monday by using the codes BLACKFRIDAY2017 and CYBERMONDAY2017, respectively.

British Virgin Islands: Looking for a warm way to recover from Thanksgiving with the family? Head to the Caribbean for the Anegada Lobster Festival on November 25 and November 26th. (Yes, the Caribbean is open! And they want us to all go back!)

North Fork, New York: Looking for romance? Cozy up with your nearest and dearest at the classic-meets-modern Sound View, a renovated motel in Greenport. The secluded seaside resort is offering a winter package that includes a romantic meal for two at The Halyard, plus four bottles of local wine. Rates start at $340, with a two-night minimum.

Charleston, South Carolina: Bookmark this Cyber Monday sale: Well-heeled travelers can save 25% off their stay at The Spectator Hotel between December 1, 2017 - August 31, 2018. Offer available from November 27 - December 1, 2017.

Borneo: The Great Projects (who we've covered before on Fathom) are offering their oragnutan voluntourism trip in Borneo at 15% off if booked by November 30. Check out the earnest promo video they made about volunteering to see lots of cute monkey business.

New York, New York: Reasons to visit The Whitby hotel this holiday season: a Thanksgiving-themed package, holiday wreath-making class with master florist Lewis Miller, Sunday movie club with seasonal classics like It’s a Wonderful Life and Home Alone 2, and a special New Year’s Eve evening.

Singapore: This fall marked the opening of the first Andaz hotel in Southeast Asia. Conveniently located just 20 minutes from Changi airport, Andaz Singapore is having a 20% off sale on standard rate room bookings through January 31, 2018.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

I just returned from the Caribbean Wine and Food Festival in Turks and Caicos, where the spirit of endurance and recovery was both touching and strong. I stayed at Grace Bay Club — one of my favorites — and toured The Residences, their gorgeous new five-bedroom villas, which come with a pool, a private chef, and a secluded white-sand beach. (I so want to come back with a gang...) The final dinner of the festival was held at The Shore Club, the swank new sister property of The Palms, which has one of the prettiest spas I've ever seen. - Pavia, CEO

On a recent fall photo walk around Hudson, New York, I crossed these places off my upstate wish list: restaurant and boardroom Wm Farmers & Sons, home decor boutique Hawkins, and This Old Hudson, a studio space and weekend lodging option from the creative agency Zio & Sons, who just released a very stylish Hudson-inspired camera bag in collaboration with ONA. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

Drum roll please: Aman Resorts has announced their next city destination will be New York City. Scheduled to open in 2020, the Jean-Michel Gathy-designed 83-room hotel will occupy the iconic Crown Building overlooking Central Park.

COMO Hotels and Resorts is opening a new oceanside retreat. COMO Echo Beach is slated to open in February in Canggu, a quaint coastal village with a six-mile beach that boasts some of Bali’s best surf breaks.

Later this winter, Collective Retreats, the pop-up travel company with outposts in Vail, Yellowstone, and Hudson Valley, will open Collective Hill Country, a Retreat at Montesino Ranch. Located on 225 acres of ranch and organic farmland, the Wimberly, Texas glamping site will have 12 tents outfitted in plush beds with 1,550-thread-count Egyptian cotton linens and “farm-to-flame” dining.

Updated 10/18/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

• Tel Aviv: Hotel Montefiore is hosting Michelin-star chef Bo Bech of Geist Restaurant in Copenhagen as part of this year’s Amex Round Tables event in Tel Aviv, November 12-17.

• Hollywood, Florida: The Diplomat Beach Resort, the iconic Florida hotel fifteen minutes south of Fort Lauderdale airport, has just completed a stylish and fun $100 million renovation. Consider it a family-friendly, laid-back alternative to South Beach.

• India: Holiday in style with a spectacular Abercrombie & Kent nine-day tour of India that includes two visits to the Taj Mahal (sunrise and sunset) and a sail on the shimmering Lake Pichola. Prices from $8,995 per person.

• Papua New Guinea: Try your hand at island survival with Oceana Expeditions Kabakon Survivor experience. Guests are dropped off on a secluded island and left to fend for themselves (with a little help, of course).

• Puglia, Italy: Dreaming about opening your own boutique hotel? Here’s your chance. Pre-book your stay at Amberlair, a historic villa surrounded by olive trees and vineyards that is crowdsourcing funding to meet their 2020 opening date.

• Europe: Cross the continent the scenic way. Eurail is having a 20 percent off sale for train passes purchased through December, including Global Pass (good in 28 countries), Select Pass (2-4 bordering countries), and One Country Pass (choose from 22).

• Catskill Mountains, New York: Reasons to visit Scribner's Lodge this fall: Yoga for Bad People and fly fishing with Esopus Creel (10/27-29), bushwhacking (11/4), and a stay-three-nights-for-the-price-of-two weekday special.

• Big Sur, California: Highway One is open! After a massive landslide wiped out a section of the road, the iconic route on the Cali coast is welcoming cars once again. Quick, make a reservation for Post Ranch Inn.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

• Great rainy day hang: Sir Adam, a new Design Hotels property in Amsterdam Noord. It has hearty burgers, games, 'zines, huge floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the river, and a rock-and-roll vibe. Jump on the ferry for literally one minute and you're at Central Station. – Jeralyn, editorial director

• I’m still thinking about my long weekend at São Lourenço do Barrocal, a stylish family-run farm estate in Portugal’s Alentejo region. I spent my days reading by the pool, dining on farm-fresh cuisine, and indulging in treatments at the Susanne Kaufmann Spa. – Berit, senior editor

• In Marrakech for the Pure travel show, I stayed at three great hotels. Opulent Hotel Selman outside the city has a pool that goes on forever and a dazzling equestrian program. In the medina, Villa des Orangers delivers understated luxury at its finest (and has a cute resident turtle!), while La Sultana is a labyrinth of sumptuous connecting riads. I ate so well at all of them. – Pavia, CEO

• While in Marrakech, Jeralyn and I attended a preview of the stunning new Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, adjacent to Jardin Majorelle. Along with Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, it's one of two new institutions dedicated to the designer who so loved Morocco. – Pavia, CEO

• One of the most memorable experiences from a recent day in Madrid was walking through El Matadero, a former municipal slaughterhouse-turned-vibrant multidisciplinary art center. A design center, theater, cinema, cafe, multiple gallery spaces, and plenty of beautiful public space are set on what used to be a gruesome and miserable plot of land. The juxtaposition is sort of like art in itself. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

• Considering Ghent, Belgium, for our next Euro escape, so we can book a stay at 1898 The Post, a stunning neo-gothic post office-turned-boutique hotel.

• Relais Christine, a Fathom Favorite in Paris, has just finished a chic renovation by designer Laura Gonzalez. A Guerlain spa will open this month.

• This month marks the opening of Dave, a new affordable boutique hotel with a fun-loving attitude in the heart of Tel Aviv.

• Classic Americana is a nice weekend aesthetic. Try it on in spring 2018, when the Blackburn Inn opens in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia.

Festival of Lights in Thailand. Photo courtesy of Remote Lands.

Updated 8/16/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

• Paris and London: Need an excuse for a last-minute city break? Perfect Experiences, the luxury apartment rental and concierge service, is offering up to 30 percent on stays of up to five nights or more through September 25, 2017.

• Big Sur, California: Take to the skies with a chopper ride over one of the USA's most stunning landscapes. While Highway 1 is undergoing repairs, the iconic southern route to Big Sur is accessible to guests of Post Ranch Inn via helicopter from Hearst Castle Pergola in San Simeon, California. The Hearst Castle helicopter package is available through October 7, 2017.

• Scandinavia: Go see what all the fuss is about in Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Oslo. Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) is having a big sale, with deals from $499 round-trip for travel between their seven US gateways and Europe from October 4 and May 31. Don't wait: The sale ends August 24.

• Cartagena: If you haven't been to Colombia yet, here's a great reason to head down. Our pals at Skylark scored a great airfare-plus-hotel deal at the chic and charming Tcherassi Hotel. (You'll have to join Skylark to get the rates.)

• Marfa, Texas: For Burning Man vibes in the West Texas desert, head to the 12th annual Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love. The communal, nomadic campground concept (guests sleep in vintage trailers, Sioux-style tepees, yurts, and safari tents) runs from September 28 to October 1, 2017.

• Chesapeake Bay, Maryland: Classic car aficionados will want to head to Inn at Perry Cabin by Belmond from September 21-26 for the return of the Concours d'Elgance. The hotel is celebrating the three-day event with a special package that includes accommodations, champagne, and VIP tickets.

• Asia: If you've got a spare $64,888 in a cupboard somewhere, consider Remote Land's 17-day, Aman Hotels journey through Asia. Sixteen people will fly private jet and hotel-hop from China to Bhutan to India to Sri Lanka from October 8-24. If you want even more, the 21-day trip in April includes Vietnam, Montenegro, and Japan.

• Southeast Asia: Another reason to fly east in the spring: May is the kickoff for planting season in Cambodia and Vietnam. Get your fill of lush tropical landscapes on an Aqua Expeditions Mekong River cruise during "green season." Book now to take advantage of the special summer rate of 30 percent off departures between May 1-July 27, 2018.

WHERE WE'VE BEEN

• I went on a grand hotel tour in London last July. In brief: I spent opening night at Nobu Hotel Shoreditch, the chain's first standalone hotel, where I loved the calm Zen vibe and the brass fittings in the bathroom (really! they were gorgeous!). I toured the don't-call-it-a-Soho-House Ned and tried to count the 400 restaurants in the former bank building (kidding, though barely). I previewed the trippy Mandrake, which has the best multi-beast taxidermied kangaroo-deer-peacock I've ever seen, as well as a beautiful atrium with hanging vines. I found Flemings Mayfair to be as great as Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly says it is. And I had my best meal of the trip at chef Ollie Dabbous's restaurant at super charming Henrietta Hotel in Covent Garden. That is all. – Pavia, CEO

• I have a long list of cute Hudson Valley B&Bs to check out, but had a helluva time finding one that allows kids. One of our 24 Best Travel Blogs & Websites, And North, tipped me off to Audrey's Farmhouse, a very cozy, 280-year-old farmhouse in Wallkill, run by a cool couple who outfitted five bedrooms and a cottage with chic furniture, Aesop toiletries, coffee table books, and taxidermy. They make a killer breakfast, converted a pool into a natural swimming hole (with frogs!) and set up a few hammocks, walking paths, and a fire pit in their big backyard. Looking forward to going back once snow falls. – Jeralyn, editorial director

• I checked into to the recently opened Hotel RL, a budget-friendly property on the border of Bushwick and Bed-Stuy with a charming back garden, decent lobby bar, and community-oriented performance space. I'm glad that more boutique hotels are popping up in Brooklyn, especially outside Williamsburg, though this one felt more like a step above a hostel than anything else. Still, being able to earn a free night stay by donating to Project Wake Up Call, the hotel's partner philanthropic initiative, is a nice way to book an affordable room in the heart of Brooklyn. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

• We've got our eye on the late August arrival of Proper Hotel San Francisco, a new hotel concept from former Viceroy Hotels CEO Brad Korzen and his design superstar wife Kelly Wearstler. Also in the pipeline are outposts in Hollywood, Downtown LA, Austin, and Santa Monica.

• Later this month, Verride Palacio Santa Catarina, an 18th-century Portuguese palace-turned-hotel will be making its debut in the heart of Lisbon.

• Renowned Danish ballet dancer Alexander Kølpin is behind the fall opening of Sanders, a stunning 54-room boutique hotel in Copenhagen's historic center.

• Edition Hotels is making a big commitment to Tokyo. Come 2020, the Ian Schrager-designed boutique will open not one, but two new properties.

Updated 7/18/17:

• How can you go on safari without using a year's worth of vacation days? Nomad Tanzania's Streamlined Safari is a good option. In six days, you'll see a Discovery Channel checklist: the Serengeti plains, the Ngorongoro crater, a Masaai tribe, and, of course, amazing wildlife. It's available year-round, but if you want to see the Great Migration, go between June and November. Rates begin at $5,283.

• It's not too late to book a trip to see this summer's total solar eclipse — the first in decades. On August 21, 2017, the newly opened Anvil Hotel in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, will host a jam-packed day of fun events, including a moon-flow yoga class, local bands, and a tailgate lunch. Individual tickets are $375 and can be reserved by calling the hotel directly, or come for a four-night stay, which starts at $1,145.

• At LE Miami last month, we learned about La Donaira, a gorgeous eco-minded retreat in southern Spain. From August 18-22, they're hosting their first Pause Festival, five days of concerts, yoga,workshops, tapas, and vino. The big idea? To connect by disconnecting. Sounds like an excellent excuse to go see it all firsthand.

• Dreaming of Iceland? The Nordic country's affordable air carrier, Wow Air, has launched a new route connecting Chicago's O'Hare (ORD) to Keflavík (KEF). One-way fares start at $150.

• Start planning your trip to the biggest balloon fiesta in the world, the 46th Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, which takes place October 7-15, 2017, in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Check out the daily schedule of events.

• If you're looking for a summer steal, consider a last-minute getaway to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, where you can save 30 percent on luxury villas and residences at Esperanza, an Auberge Resort.

• Enjoy summer in Amsterdam like the Dutch do. Conservatorium, a Fathom Favorite hotel, is offering a Welcome to Holland package, which includes a private cycling tour, canal boat ride, and a picnic in Vondelpark through September 17, 2017. Rates start at €566.50 and require a two-night stay.

• The beautifully renovated Pulitzer Amsterdam is conducting a little VIP action during the annual Grachtenfestival, August's ten-day classical music showcase for emerging and established talent. Guests of the hotel can enjoy cocktails, bites, and concerts in the inner garden (8/13 and 8/16), not to mention incredible seats for The Pulitzer Concert, which is staged on pontoons floating on the water directly in front of the hotel. Really get into the spirit by booking the Music Collector's Suite, a two-room suite complete with a collection of vinyl, a vintage record player, and instruments.

If you want help planning any of these trips, email us at travel@fathomaway.com to book through the Fathom Travel Desk.

Updated 4/28/17:

• Want to show mom Mother's Day love? Take her away. 21C, our favorite museum-cum-hotel in Lexington, Kentucky, is offering a Renew, Refresh, Relax package for an overnight stay in corner room, $100 spa credit, breakfast, and a Malin + Goetz gift bag.

• One for the family: Memorial Day weekend at Mohonk Mountain House in upstate New York. The agenda includes A Jelly Bean Field Day and a magic show for the littles, tomahawk throwing and archery for the apathetic teens.

• It's Great Migration season though Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, and to celebrate the arrival of the zebras (by the hudreds of thousands!) and widebeests (a million of 'em!), Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti is giving guests the fourth night free.

• Do you do that thing where you go on vacation and find yourself planning your next vacation? We do, too. The folks at Baglioni Resort Cala del Porto, a fantastic Tuscan hotel that we visited last year, will give guests who go to Italy two free nights at their sister hotel Baglioni Resort Maldives. Yes, you'll be thanking your July vacation in January.

Troutbeck Is (Once Again) New York City's Perfect Retreat

The just-opened Troutbeck hotel is a unique Hudson Valley hideaway that’s at once historic, low-key, and luxurious. Christina Ohly takes a look around.

AMENIA, New York — All the cool kids are flocking to the Hudson Valley — and for good reason. They’re drawn to the lush landscape, the fine cuisine, and the lack of traffic and pretense. So it has always puzzled me why there are so few — if any — really lovely, top-notch places to stay around here. 

The scene has just changed for the better with the opening of the re-envisioned Troutbeck, a 250 year-old inn-cum-gathering spot in Amenia that has played host to Ralph Waldo Emerson, Henry David Thoreau, Mark Twain, Ernest Hemmingway, Governor Teddy Roosevelt, and such giants of the civil liberties movement as Sinclair Lewis, W.E.B. Du Bois, Thurgood Marshall, and Langston Hughes.

You’re swept up in the history of the place from the approach: a glorious lawn leading to a massive slate-covered Manor House. The building has seventeen highly individualized rooms — some sprawling suites, some intimate doubles that are perfect for a one-night escape. They were designed by Alexandra Champalimaud, whose storied hotel credits include The Hotel Bel-Air and The Carlyle. But this project is personal: Not only is she a nearby resident, but her son Anthony Champalimaud is the hotelier running the luxurious compound.

Troutbeck is personal for me, too, as my mother lives in the area. I initially came for lunch, having heard that the chef from Fish & Game, a wonderful Dutchess County restaurant, had landed here.

I was beyond impressed by the food and the ambience. What started as a quest for a simple salad and sandwich led to a leisurely lunch with Anthony, who spent hours telling me incredible stories of Troutbeck’s past and showing me around the 45-acre property, including the rooms at the separate Century House. Cottages, which are slated to open next summer, will no doubt appeal to discerning travelers who love their privacy.

BOOK IT

Rates change seasonally and typically range from $225-$900 depending on room type. Click here for reservations.

Checking In

Location
The Dutchess County property is just two easy hours from New York City on border of Litchfield County, Connecticut. The setting is ideal throughout the seasons: Hiking, biking, snowshoeing, reading by a roaring fire, and swimming in the pool in summer are just a few of the activities on offer.

Hotel Style
The current owners — a consortium of area residents who prefer to stay under the radar — have preserved the rich roots of Troutbeck while updating it for today’s tasteful (and demanding) traveler. The original slate tiles remain on the exterior of the Manor House, but interiors have been lightened to create warm, minimalist, homey spaces. The guest rooms are highly individualized and honor the original woodwork, windows, and quirky configurations, but have been updated with LCD TVs, Tivoli Audio Bluetooth everything, and Frette linens that making lying in a must.

This Place Is Perfect For
Couples looking for a weekend escape, anyone looking to gather a group of friends for the ultimate and intimate house party, and families with older children who seek a dose of nature and maybe skiing at nearby Mohawk Mountain. Troutbeck is also perfect for history buffs and, come to think of it, anyone looking to write their next, great novel.

What’s on Site
The smart owners have thought of virtually everything a picky Manhattanite might need, and gear is plentiful supply. No need to pack snowshoes, tennis rackets, yoga mats, children’s toys, or even chic Kenyan Kikoy towels for swaddling post-swim. It’s all here.

The food is no afterthought and is in plentiful supply. The spacious main restaurant seats 76 and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Seating options include cozy booths, an inviting farm table for twelve in front the fireplace, and an outdoor deck for casual suppers under the stars. It has become a magnet for locals, so be sure to book ahead. The seasonal poolside grill serves incredible burgers. A fully stocked pantry (with a cute Smeg fridge) is a nice touch for returning outdoor enthusiasts or anyone in search of cocktail hour nibbles.

Number of Rooms
There are 37 total guest rooms in the Manor House and Century House, with nine suites and multiple connecting configurations possible. Cottages will open in the summer.

In-Room Amenities
The WiFi is excellent, as are the Malin & Goetz bath products that match Troutbeck’s low-key yet luxurious aesthetic. Thick Frette robes, down duvets, radiant heated bathrooms, soaking tubs with smart book caddies, and breakfast in bed are among the thoughtful touches.

Drawbacks
I am hard-pressed to identify one, but, if pushed, a few of the rooms are dark. The building is old and made of wood and slate, so this is to be expected. If this is an issue, request a light-filled room upon booking.

Standout Details
The standouts are the original features that have been painstakingly preserved, like the Walled Garden dating from 1916 that’s tiered over two levels and feels like a magical escape. And the stylish pole barn now strewn with little white lights to make for an ideal party setting. A sweet old stone chapel makes the visitor feel like they’re in Ye Olde England.

In terms of contemporary standouts, the food and service make Troutbeck feel so warm and welcoming. I’ve never had a more delicious (if elevated!) grilled cheese sandwich, and the staff are all so incredibly kind and accommodating that the hotel feels, to borrow an overused cliché that really fits, like a home away from home.

Checking Out

Surroundings
The 45 wooded acres of Troutbeck have it all: streams for fishing (poles are provided), hiking trails, towns dotted with cute antique shops, bucolic spots for morning yoga. It’s a quiet, natural setting just perfect for quick restoration.

What to Do Nearby
You’re in striking distance of all sort of interesting options, like the artist-run The Wassaic Project and MassMOCA in nearby Lenox, Massachusetts, a world-class art destination that’s worth a day trip. So is a detour north to the antique-filled town of Hudson for mid-century and vintage furniture at Red Chair on Warren and beautifully curated finds at Finch. Fuel up on inventive pizzas at Baba Louie’s before heading south to explore the quaint towns of Litchfield, Kent, and Salisbury with their postcard-perfect white church steeples. For those with a need for speed, Lime Rock Park offers race car driving lessons and skiers will love nearby Mohawk Mountain.

Plan Your Trip

How to Get There
Troutbeck is an easy two-hour drive from New York City and six minutes away from the Wassaic train station that’s serviced by MetroNorth. Stewart International Airport is an hour away and is serviced by flights from Europe and Canada.

Getting Around
A car is definitely helpful as there is so much to explore — towns, parks, stores, and art galleries. The hotel will happily pick up guests from the train station, so if you plan to sit still and lounge on property, a train trip with no car works perfectly well.

Keep Exploring the Hudson Valley

A Romantic Hudson Valley Retreat For All Seasons
A Romantic Hudson Valley Retreat For All Seasons
A Storm King Kind of Sunday
The Best of City and Country Rolled into One Little Weekend in Hudson, NY

A Winsome Stay at Zurich's Widder Hotel

Modernism meets medieval history at the Widder Hotel on the shores of Lake Zurich.

ZURICH — Zurich is having something of a design moment and a foodie moment. So much so that I'd say the Swiss lakes are giving Italy a run for its money. Visitors are in for rare treats in the beautifully preserved city on the shores of Lake Zurich. 

I was especially taken on my recent visit when I stayed at the Widder Hotel, a five-star, design-led boutique in the heart of the quaint Old Town. A series of townhouses from the 15th-century have been expertly combined to create a 49-room sanctuary, with two restaurants and one very chic bar scene.

The hotel’s authentic shuttered façade overlooks Rennweg, a pedestrian street in the quiet Augustiner quarter, a perfect jumping-off point for exploration. I loved this neighborhood of medieval church spires and cobblestone walkways, but it was the juxtaposition of styles at The Widder that really won me over. From the intimate library (original stone walls, Eames chairs, state-of-the-art, wood-burning stove) to the sleek glass elevators, the Widder is a wonderful discovery for tourists, foodies, and business travelers alike.

Book It

Design Double Rooms start at CHF470 ($480). The penthouse (CHF4,000) has fireplaces, terraces, and bi-level spaces ideal for large groups and long-term stays. Check for availability.

Checking In

This place is stylish from the minimalist check-in desk. Everyone, from the helpful concierges to the valets, is clad in sleek suits (and appears under low, directional lighting). It feels polished and luxurious. You’ll want to enlist the help of the connected concierge for advice on exploring the surrounding historic neighborhood and for help booking the best tables.

Location
Set in the heart of the Old Town, the location can’t be beat for its proximity to not only the business district, but also to the unspoiled beauty of Lake Zurich, the Limmat River, and the snow-capped Alps. The bustling shopping street, Bahnhofstrasse, is steps away, but it is the peaceful surrounding streets that make the location so special. Tip: Hundreds of church bells on Sunday mornings make for a rare symphony.

Hotel Style
Modernism meets medieval history with original, rough-hewn oak beams integrated with glass and chrome walls. It feels less like a hotel and more like a guest lounge. The Igloo, a winter pop-up that runs from November 2 to January 31, 2018, is a glass atrium bar that's been transformed into an all-white winter wonderland serving icy cocktails and traditional Raclette.

This Place Is Perfect For
The Widder is ideal for business travelers (it’s quiet and just steps from the Financial District), curious tourists, and design lovers (the mix of original oak finishes and cutting edge LED TVs and glass elements are just fascinating). The whole place is something of an engineering feat.

But Not So Perfect For
The Widder isn’t as perfect as say, Dolder Grand, for families with young kids. It has a quieter tone — and no swimming pool — and it caters to a slightly older crowd.

What’s on Site
A subterranean fitness center with TechnoGym equipment is excellent for curing jet lag (personal training and nutritional coaching are available), but this isn’t a spa destination. For that, book in at the nearby Dolder Grand for the Norman Foster-designed spa with every state-of-the-art, soothing treatment under the Swiss sun.

Food + Drink
Breakfast is often included in the room rate (subject to booking) and the bright AuGust brasserie offers everything from homemade Bircher muesli to croissants, with a vast selection of teas and frothy coffees. The more formal Widder Bar & Kitchen is a destination for locals and serves a weird mélange of cuisines — Swiss favorites, curries, themed tasting menus focused on a specific ingredient (recent examples include chili, cilantro, basil). The Widder Bar Summer Lounge is a truly special, leafy niche that’s "open in fine weather” from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

The Rooms
There are 49 rooms and suites featuring different design elements and color schemes. No two are the same. Most feature original woodwork and stone finishes, and each feels like light-filled, sumptuous oasis.

In-Room Amenities
Movement-sensitive night lights, adjustable mattresses, bathroom mirrors with integrated TVs, Bang & Olufsen stereos, Nespresso machines, minibars stocked with Swiss chocolates, and excellent, free WiFi are all standard.

Drawbacks
I liked everything, but certain rooms are darker than others. (Request the bright Room 403 for energizing blue details and a Le Corbusier couch.)

Standout Detail
The service here is lovely — a mix of organized excellence and warmth. The staff makes every effort to over-deliver, and if the hotel car is free and waiting, they will happily take you to nearby sights or even to the airport (as was the case when I departed at 5 a.m.). Personalized business cards for your stay are a nice touch.

Checking Out

Neighborhood
The Old Town is a magical part of Zurich — there are no cars or chain stores! (Save one Starbucks that I spotted.) The 15th- and 16th-century buildings, and particularly the churches with their enormous clock faces, make this feel like a blissful, old-fashioned time warp.

What to Do Nearby
For a cultural fix, don’t miss the Kunsthaus with its collection of Giacometti, Munch, Picasso, and Matisse, and the contemporary Kunsthalle gallery. But it is the surrounding streets — and natural beauty — that are most special. St. Peter’s Church, with the largest church clock in Europe, is a one-minute walk from the hotel. The stained glass windows by Marc Chagall at the Fraumünster Church are definitely worth a detour.

Don’t miss the concierge’s recommendations that cover everything from food to nearby walks. One of my favorites is Schwarzenbach, a must for foodie delights of all kinds — global teas, chocolates, and every kind of dried fruit imaginable. Spitzenhaus is more than just a parfumerie; the owners have curated a luxurious mini scent museum that provides an incredible education. Limited Stock is a spare, tasteful design store full of artisanal things from Europe and Japan set in an old blacksmith’s atelier.

Good to Know
This is a walking city, so pack shoes accordingly. If possible, don’t miss a Sunday morning in the Old Town. I had no idea how special this would be.

Plan Your Trip

The airport is about 30 minutes from the hotel in traffic, and the train station is just minutes away. Before leaving the airport, get a ZürichCARD travel and discount pass for access to all public transport, including trams, trolley buses, and trains that run in the most timely Swiss fashion. The pass also covers admission to many museums.

Getting Around
The city is largely free of cars, making it perfect for exploring on foot. Taxis are widely available as well.

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Aman Owner, Vladislav Doronin, On His Eclectic Art

Aman owner Vladislav Doronin has built his art collection through a search for a deeper spiritual and cultural meaning.

Vladislav Doronin at Aman Venice

The founder of Russian real-estate development firm Capital Group and the owner and chairman of Aman, Vladislav Doronin is as passionate about art and design as he is about elevated hospitality. Here, he shares his thoughts on everything from spiritual Asian art to the business of collecting.

What are your earliest memories of art?
Growing up in St Petersburg, I was fortunate to be exposed to one of the world’s most famous collections of art and the second-largest art museum in the world, The Hermitage. It was there I first discovered the Suprematists and the Russian avant-garde and, specifically, works by Kazimir Malevich, El Lissitzky, Nikolay Punin, Vladimir Tatlin, Lyubov Popova, Pavel Filonov and Aleksandra Ekster. I was drawn to their works because of their geometry and almost musical quality. These artists were among the first in my collection.

Are you equally passionate about art, architecture and design? 
For the last decade I have been collecting design pieces alongside contemporary and pop art. I have been particularly drawn to pieces by designers who were originally trained as architects and this is no coincidence as I’ve worked with many prominent architects throughout my 24-year career in real estate.

Tell us about your home designed by Zaha Hadid.
Zaha Hadid and I were very close and spent a lot of time together during the design of my home on the outskirts of Moscow. This Capital Hill Residence is one of the projects I am most proud of and seeing it for the first time was incredibly moving.   

Doronin's residence Capital Hill in Moscow, was designed by Zaha Hadid.

Do you work with an art advisor to build your collections?
I have a number of friends and art consultants who give me advice. Usually I will ask a few informed people their opinions about a work I am interested in, but, ultimately, I trust my instincts. I live with my collection so I need to have a relationship with each work, and I also need to know that it will fit in with the rest of my works.

Tell us about your photography collections and the spaces they fill.
I like Peter Beard and admire the rough, raw, and powerful quality of his work. I also have a collection of works by Hollywood actor and director Dennis Hopper. I have a few portraits of his friends, including Andy Warhol and Ed Ruscha, that were taken in the 1960s.

Are any of the works you own particularly spiritual?
I have spent many years training in the ancient practices of martial arts, yoga, qigong, and Tibetan Buddhism. Through these disciplines, I have studied the flow of energy and have learned to look for art with spiritual and cultural meaning that resonates with me. Traveling to Aman destinations around the world has allowed me to collect many objects of spiritual and martial significance. From my travels to Amankora in Bhutan, a spiritual kingdom with a strong connection to Buddhism, I acquired traditional carved masks, amulets, incense burners and devotional items used in sacred Buddhist ceremonies. I also have prayer beads, prayer wheels and statues given to me by local monks.  

What are the most unique pieces in your collection?
I have been inspired by my trips to Aman Tokyo and Amanemu and have appreciated the intense Japanese disciplines and precision. This exacting approach is evident in their art, culture, architecture, and in the Japanese swords that can take up to a year to forge by hand. I have several of these remarkable, prized weapons in my art collection. Japanese regimented discipline is also evident in the Bonsai tree and I have several of these groomed trees — some more than 100 years old — that I consider living, breathing components of my art collection. 

Do you participate in the art programme for Aman properties? 
We work with artists, galleries, and fairs on a case-by-case basis and I was recently involved with the launch of a Skyspace installation by James Turrell at a villa in Amanzoe in Greece. The sky over the Peloponnese is magical, turning sublime colours over sunrise and sunset and this setting suits his work beautifully.

Is there an artist or architect that that you’re particularly excited about?
I would like to work with Tadao Ando and Santiago Calatrava in the future, and, in terms of art, I am particularly excited about discovering new artists from Japan and China. Calligraphy and ink drawings have been increasingly compelling, so I may add a few of these to my collection.

This article originally appeared in the December 2017 issue of Billionaire, The Celebration. To subscribe contact subs@highend.media

Craig Robins’ dining boltholes

The CEO and president of property development company Dacra meets fashion designers over tuna tartare in Paris and art collectors over dim sum in Hong Kong

Craig Robins at Mandolin | Image: Rose Cromwell

“Everything is so rushed today that it’s important to share meals with colleagues and partners: when work gets integrated with life, everything is enhanced – we’re all more productive. My business focuses on art and design – specifically, developing the Miami Design District with leading brands and restaurants – and this extends to where I choose to entertain architects, designers, lawyers or our leasing team.

A favourite Miami lunch spot is Michael’s Genuine, a foodie mecca where I recently shared a fun meal with Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton, to bring him up to speed on some public art projects. I love its huge umbrellas; you can stay outside even if there’s a tropical shower. Whoever I’m with, whether it’s Pharrell or Riccardo Tisci, I order the stracciatella for sharing – with fresh peaches or tomatoes – and the seasonal stone crab claws.

The sleek MC Kitchen, another regular in the Design District, has a bustling open kitchen and the world’s best truffle pizza; I have one slice – it’s rich – and bring the rest to the office, which goes down well. I recently shared their signature poulet rouge with caramelised onions with cult hairdresser Oribe, while discussing the possibility of a salon in the District. I don’t drink with lunch, but for special dinners here I’ll have a glass of Burly Cabernet.

At Mandolin, one of the city’s most soulful restaurants, everyone bonds in the tavern-like atmosphere. Balenciaga’s CEO Cédric Charbit and I discussed opening its next store here over a family-style meal of grilled octopus and sirloin kefte, further solidifying our relationship.

The creative magic of the District expands exponentially during Design Miami, the fair I founded. One of last year’s most memorable evenings was in a private space above a super-hip spot called OTL. During the week, it’s perfect for laidback morning meetings, brainstorming over quinoa muffins – but that night, we celebrated the Saint Laurent store opening with art dealers and curators including Larry Gagosian and Jeffrey Deitch and an abundant, experimental menu of canapés.

I also do a lot of business outside Miami. The place to be during Art Basel is the bar in Les Trois Rois, which serves excellent cocktails; while nearby Chez Donati – where I recently met Nadja Swarovski to talk about ideas for Design Miami – has excellent fillet of sole Florentine and spaghetti with clams.

In London, The Connaught is perfect for drinks meetings during Frieze. One of my favourite restaurants is The River Café. I had dinner there recently with David Adjaye to discuss exciting future projects over fantastic pasta and seabass.

Paris is important for my work with fashion houses, and visits there mean going to fabulous bistros with Christian Louboutin, who I bonded with on a research trip to South America before he opened his flagship in the District. Our last dinner, at stylish La Société in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, was a wonderful night of tuna tartare and lively conversation.

On my last trip to Hong Kong, where I’m exploring real estate concepts, I went to a fabulous dinner, full of design people, hosted by entrepreneur Alan Lo and his father Victor Lo, chairman and CEO of Gold Peak Industries. It was at the Ilse Crawford-designed Duddell’s, on top of the Shanghai Tang Mansion: the terrace garden setting is gorgeous, and Alan and I chatted about Asian art over excellent dim sum and fried lobster. In Tokyo, for the Pritzker Prize ceremony, I had delicious dinners with collectors at the Park Hyatt. Its properties are outstanding; the views from the restaurant, Kozue, are magnificent – especially accompanied by sea urchin and beef shabu-shabu and debate about the future of architecture, art and design.”

WHERE TO FIND

Chez Donati, St. Johanns-Vorstadt 48, 4056 Basel (+416-1322 0919). The Connaught, Carlos Place, London W1 (020-7499 7070; the-connaught.co.uk). Duddell’s, Level 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong (+852-2525 9191; duddells.co). Kozue, Park Hyatt, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku, Tokyo (+813-5323 3460; tokyo.park.hyatt.co.jp). La Société, 4 Place Saint-Germain des Près, 75006 Paris (+331-5363 6060; restaurantlasociete.com). Les Trois Rois, Blumenrain 8, 4001 Basel (+416-1260 5050; lestroisrois.com). Mandolin Aegean Bistro, 4312 NE 2nd Avenue, Miami (+1305-576 6066; mandolinmiami.com). MC Kitchen, 4141 NE 2nd Avenue #101a, Miami (+1305-456 9948; mckitchenmiami.com). Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, 130 NE 40th Street, Miami (+1305-573 5550; michaelsgenuine.com). OTL, 160 NE 40th Street, Miami (+1786-953 7620; otlmia.com). The River Café, Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, London W6 (020-7386 4200; rivercafe.co.uk).

Vladislav Doronin’s perfect weekend in Miami

The founder of Capital Group counts Aman and the forthcoming Missoni Baia in Miami among his hospitality and residential holdings

“Miami is such a dynamic place and there is always something to do, from tennis tournaments to Art Basel to the annual boat show. But what I love most is the weather: the sun and the outdoor lifestyle really agree with me, and I think it’s a very good, easy‑going place to raise children.

Saturday mornings at my home on Star Island begin at 8am with a cup of hot water, followed by Qigong meditation with the Tibetan monks I’ve been training with for a few years. This time is all about breathing and movement, and it clears my meridians and chakras. Afterwards I’ll go for a run on the beach with my trainer, or a long swim.

Breakfast is around 10am, and includes papaya, porridge, avocados and miso soup, plus eggs or turkey for protein. I’ll drink green tea and maybe some spicy green juice, which stokes my immune system. Saturdays in Miami are about family, and we always have at least six or seven people around the table, including my parents, plus my partner and children.

Much of the day is spent on the water, and if the weather is really nice we’ll head to Bimini or Eleuthera on my Riva Domino for a day in the Bahamas. More often, though, we’ll go by tender to Seaspice Restaurant for lunch overlooking the Miami River. The atmosphere is lively and the food healthy – I particularly like the salads and fresh fish. Or I might take my speedboat, a Wider 42, over to Key Biscayne and kite-surf with my trainer. I absolutely love this sport, so if we go, it’s at least a two-hour commitment.

I love spending time with my new English bulldog, Mozart, and I often walk him in Bayfront Park, which was redesigned by Isamu Noguchi in the 1980s. If the weather isn’t perfect, the afternoon might involve a visit to the Pérez Art Museum or the Bass Museum. I collect contemporary art and love both of these collections. I’ll also drop into the Taschen Store to stock up on art books. In the evening we like to eat out, and one of my favourite places is Casa Tua in Miami Beach. The owner, Miky Grendene, always takes good care of us. We’ll sit out in the lantern-lit back garden and enjoy simple pasta with tomato and basil, or a risotto with truffles. Another place for a night out is Cipriani, where I’ll order sharing plates of baby artichokes and marinated aubergine. The pan-roasted veal with limone is superb too, and I do like a good Tuscan red wine – a Gaia or an Ornellaia. I’m not so much a clubbing guy these days but if I do go out, it might be to the Wall Lounge in the W Hotel. In any case, I am usually in bed by midnight.

Sunday begins the same way, with meditation and exercise – but then I might go for a drive in my 1965 Jaguar E-Type. I love to drive and don’t often get the chance in London, so this is a real treat. I’ll probably end up having lunch with friends at Kyu in the Wynwood district, where the plant-focused food is light and easy. I like this place so much that it influenced our Japanese restaurant Nama, at Amanpuri. Later on, I’ll take the boat out for a cruise around Biscayne Bay and the islands, and do some fishing. You see the most beautiful sunsets from Key Biscayne, where there is less boat traffic and the views are unobstructed. For a drink I like the bar at The Setai –the Asian-inspired atmosphere is very relaxing. Then it’s home for dinner, prepared by my chef Fabrizio, which might include the fish we’ve caught that day. To end the day, I’ll watch a film or a TV series like Billions or Marco Polo in our 4D cinema. Often I fly back to London to arrive on Monday morning, but my Miami weekends give me an amazing energy and after just two days my batteries are fully recharged.”

A long weekend in Philadelphia with Tory Burch

The fashion designer-philanthropist shares dazzling historic monuments, hidden art collections and a few serious foodie havens with Christina Ohly Evans

It used to be that Philadelphia was a very conservative city, and not so much a visiting one – but that has changed. There is now so much on offer: great food, designer hotels, farmers’ markets. And of course there’s so much rich history too; the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, The Franklin Institute Science Museum and the Barnes Foundation are all here. Basically the city is the birthplace of our democracy, so regardless of a person’s political views, after last year’s presidential election it’s more relevant, and I’d say interesting, than ever.

I encourage friends to visit even just for the day, since Philadelphia is only a little over an hour by train from New York. But there are great hotels to choose from, many with unexpected, nice design or tech touches. The Rittenhouse overlooks Rittenhouse Square and has an always-elegant ambience, with large suites refurbished by Alexandra Champalimaud – the palette of bright colours against rich, dark walls is so chic, and there’s a lovely leafy central courtyard. Another boutique offering is the Roost Apartment Hotel, designed by Morris Adjmi – he also did the very cool Wythe Hotel, in Brooklyn – which has contemporary furnishings by Patricia Urquiola and Roll & Hill, among others. Rittenhouse 1715 is smaller and more traditional, in a Georgian-style carriage house from the early 1900s, and its rooms are airy and stylish. It’s just a three-storey building set on a very quiet residential street, so it feels like a nice escape.

An indoor display in the Exhibition Hall at Longwood Gardens | Image: Alamy

So many neighbourhoods have come up over the past few years. One of the best to explore is Fairmount, where the Barnes Foundation is located. The Barnes is very near to my heart; the collections of post-impressionist and modern paintings, as well as Native American ceramics, textiles and jewellery, are among the finest in the world. The new building was designed by Tod Williams and Billie Tsien, and it respects the history of founder Albert Barnes’ original museum vision, but puts the art centre stage in light-filled gallery spaces. And the Barnes Foundation Arboretum, in suburban Merion, is well worth a visit for the beautiful gardens full of rare plants and trees. The monkey puzzle tree in particular is extraordinary – all twisted limbs and thorny leaves.

Fairmount is home to other world-class museums as well. There’s the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the Rodin Museum – the latter has one of the largest collections of the artist’s work outside Paris. But a lesser‑known gem is the Fabric Workshop and Museum, with incredible contemporary art by Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor and Carrie Mae Weems, among so many others, and it offers a programme of performance art and workshops for all ages.

The Fishtown neighbourhood is another must; this formerly dodgy area is now the Williamsburg of Philly, and it’s perfect for wandering. You can pick up a coffee from La Colombe, one of the city’s best roasters, before visiting the indie, old-school Philadelphia Record Exchange for any kind of music you can possibly think of. Pizzeria Beddia is a real Fishtown highlight; it has been deemed the best pizza in America by Bon Appétit magazine. Joe Beddia makes just 40 “pies” a day, and there’s no place to sit, so you have to get there very early to get served. The pizza arrabbiata is unbelievable. Once you’re fed, Jinxed Philadelphia is an incredible variety store where almost all the pieces are unique – everything from shiny metal housewares to vintage cameras to antique maps.Another Fishtown draw is Kensington Quarters, an industrial warehouse with a popular great meat-centric restaurant and butchery classes, and Little Baby’s Ice Cream, where the weird but interesting flavours – Cucumber Dill, Chocolate Salt Malt – are all delicious. 

No trip to Philly is complete without one of the city’s famous cheese steaks. This local delicacy is the subject of debate; some people like Jim’s Steaks, some like Pat’s King of Steaks. I’ll take either, but the whole cheese steak thing is an experience, so load up with hot peppers and just enjoy. At the sprawling Reading Terminal Market, a historic farmers’ market that opened in 1892, you can find everything from traditional pretzels, made by the Amish, to beautiful, freshly cut flowers. 

An all-American experience awaits in the Fishtown district with its shops, restaurants and bars | Image: Alamy

Philadelphia is, of course, known for its place in US history, and Independence Hall, which was where the Declaration of Independence was signed, is a must. The Liberty Bell – cast in London and brought to the US, where it immediately cracked – is another. Benjamin Franklin is buried at Christ Church, and people throw pennies at his grave – a symbol of good luck and a nod to his “a penny saved is a penny earned” saying – though this ritual has caused some damage over time, so it’s a little bit frowned upon now.

Sporting life is a big part of Philadelphia, and Boathouse Row on the Schuylkill River is a beautiful place to watch the rowers passing by, while there are all sorts of seasonal events on offer – the Radnor Hunt, the Dad Vail Regatta and the Philadelphia Marathon – that draw crowds from all over the world. As a child, I often went to watch the Phillies baseball and Eagles football games with my brothers, and at these events you’re always assured of an enthusiastic crowd. 

Jim’s Steaks serves up the city’s famous cheese steaks

The Old City area is full of quaint Federal and Georgian-style buildings, so a stroll here is well worth it for the architecture alone. But shoppers won’t be disappointed with the excellent vintage shops and indie boutiques along North Third Street, where Vagabond is one of the best for clothing by emerging designers – look out for Ajaie Alaie and UZINC, from Brooklyn – and also unique decorative things for the home. There is also Antique Row on Pine Street for a mix of old and new stores, galleries and cafés.

There are all sorts of treasures outside the city as well, not least some world-class gardens. I’d highly recommend a trip to Longwood Gardens, which are beautiful year round, but especially during the holidays. One of the largest parks in Philadelphia, Fairmount, is on the outskirts of town; it has hiking and biking trails, as well as a Japanese house and garden, called Shofusu, that is spectacularly lovely. If you go here, plan for a Sunday brunch at the Valley Green Inn, where the French toast is legendary. 

The Rittenhouse is a luxury boutique hotel in the heart of the city

Philadelphia’s Main Line – the western suburbs that were built along the main line of the Pennsylvania Railroad – is no longer a series of sleepy communities; some of the most exciting restaurants and shops are here. B2 Bluefin Sushi, in Bala Cynwyd, is one of the best sushi restaurants I’ve eaten at anywhere; and the very chic boutique Kirna Zabête is a great addition to Bryn Mawr. This offshoot of the popular New York store of the same name is fantastic for fashion finds, from Loewe to Proenza Schouler. 

There is no bad time of year to visit Philadelphia, though I prefer the city in the spring and autumn when the gardens are in bloom, and it isn’t so hot and humid. The Fringe Festival in September is an annual highlight – a citywide celebration of art, dance and theatre. For visitors in July, the fireworks over the Philadelphia Museum of Art offer a real dose of Americana. Regardless of the season, there is really something for everyone. I love that Philadelphia has become more accessible and more diverse, and that the food scene is world-class – but that it still feels like home.

US Road Trips: The Northeast

The quintessential city escape: seaside retreats, rolling hills, secluded lakes, beachy hangouts, sunset beers. Pack up and hit the highway with this list of weekend road trip destinations in the northeast United States. Are we there yet?

Jump to: Connecticut | Maine | Maryland | Massachusetts | New York | Rhode Island | Vermont

Photo courtesy of Privet House.

Head to Southport/Westport

If you're in the mood for low-key antiquing and the beach. The Delmar Hotel and Artisan restaurant are around the corner from what is, quite possibly, the sweetest, tiniest town. Terrain, Anthropologie's stunning offshoot (greenhouse, garden center, cafe), has a packed summer lineup of classes and events.
Route to take: Straight shot on I-95, 90 minutes from Manhattan.
Good to know: The Gray Goose Cafe is adorable for lunch.

Head to Greenwich

If you're in the mood for fresh air and fancy shopping. Hit "The Ave" for boutiques like Privet House. Enjoy a leisurely lunch at local favorite Meli Melo, where specialties include French onion soup and freshly squeezed OJ. If you're still around for dinner, stroll down to L'Escale for harborside dining and specialty cocktails named for the seven heavenly virtues.
Route to take: One hour by car from New York City via I-95.
Good to know: The Drawing Room serves hand-blended teas and delicious scones with clotted cream. Their adjacent shop is the place to buy decorative pillows and scented candles. Stop off in Port Chester for a pizza margarita at Mario Batali's Tarry Lodge and freshly baked bread and cured meats from the market.

Head to Washington

If you’re in the mood for a classic, picturesque New England town. Dine by the open hearth fire at the Mayflower Inn, pick up hot cross buns and Irish soda bread from The Pantry, or take a picnic and hike the beautiful trails along the Shepaug River in Steep Rock Reserve.
Route to take: A two-hour jaunt from NYC.
Good to know: Averill Farm has been family-run since 1746. Go in the fall for apple picking, homemade pies, and old-fashioned farm fun.
Read more on Fathom: New England Classic: A Design Duo's Favorites in Washington Connecticut

MAINE

Photo courtesy of White Barn Inn.

Head to Acadia National Park

If you’re in the mood for coastal scenery at its finest. Bike the national park's 45 miles of carriage roads, hike the diverse terrain, and watch the sunrise from atop Cadillac Mountain. Stay at charming and kitsch-free West Street Hotel in Bar Harbor and get popovers fresh from the oven at Jordan Pond House before gorging yourself on lobster rolls and ice cream.
Route to take: Stop along the park’s 27-mile scenic route at Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Jordan Pond, and Cadillac Mountain.
Good to know: For late night bites and weekly karaoke, head to Little A's Sports Bar.
Read more on Fathom: Finding Arcadia in Acadia

Head to Rockland

If you're in the mood for farm-fresh food without the Boston or New York price tag. Make a reservation at Primo and enjoy a creative menu that uses produce and animals raised on the property.
Route to take: Route 1 affords beautiful coastal scenery, complete with waves crashing into rocky cliffsides and charming lighthouses.
Good to know: The Farnsworth Art Museum is also located in Rockland, giving you a good dose of culture along with a fantastic meal.

Head Down the Coast of Maine

If you're in the mood for by-the-book prep, nature adventures, and rural farm areas.
Route to take: Skip around from Camden to Rockport to Kennebunkport to Norway.
Good to know: Stay at the Country Inn or The White Barn Inn; stock up on L.L. Bean; let Ducktrap Kayak handle your paddling details.
Read more on Fathom: Little Black Book for Coastal Maine

MARYLAND

Photo courtesy of Inn at Perry Cabin.

Head to the Chesapeake Coast

If you're in the mood for a nautical state of mind. Start by gazing at the sailboats from your bedroom window at Inn at Perry Cabin. Get dirty with buckets of peel-and-eat shrimp poured onto tables covered in brown paper by day; clean up for the five-course dinner menu from a Per Se alum at Bartlett Pear Inn.
Route to take: Route 301 is a pleasant alternative to the NJ Turnpike and I-95.
Good to know: The NYT has a list of finger-licking crab shacks that's worth a gander.

MASSACHUSETTS

Photo by Todd Beeby.

Head to the Berkshires

If you're in the mood for dance, theater, yoga, Shakespeare, and skinny dipping with mountain as the backdrop.
Route to take: Saw Mill from NYC; Mohawk Trail into North Adams from Boston.
Good to know: Jacob's Pillow, Mass MoCA, Kripalu, and Canyon Ranch are all here.
Read more on Fathom: Berkshires Hot List and Breathing Lessons in the Berkshires

Head to Nantucket

If you're in the mood for a new flavor profile on one the coast's most historic islands. Do Provisions for brunch, Ventuno for dinner, and Brotherhood of Thieves for a sunset beer. Shack up at White Elephant or Wauwinet.
Route to take: JetBlue flies to the island during summer months.
Good to know: Take the pooch. There's a lot of outdoor living, dog-friendly hotels, and off-leash beaches.

NEW YORK

Photo courtesy of The Arnold.

Head to Barryville

If you're in the mood for locavore eating, sustainable shopping, patronizing family businesses. Stay at Hillside Schoolhouse, a two-bedroom charmer nestled in the woods of Sullivan County. Head to Benji & Jake's for cold beers and wood-fired pizza on the upstairs deck overlooking Kauneonga Lake. Pick up locally sourced pantry items from modern general store River Market or the Barryville Farmers Market (on Saturdays during the summer). Rent an inner tube and take a ride along Skinner's Falls. Follow with a long and lazy dinner at The Heron.
Route to take: Route 97 through Barryville has crazy winding roads, scenic overlooks along the Delaware River, and habitats for birds of prey (once a dirt road referred to as the Hawk's Nest).
Good to know: Take a cue from owner Bronson Bigelow, who quit his corporate job to open the inn and make all the furniture in it. Or just shop his collection of upcycled antiques, vintage industrial objects, and restored ice boxes.

Head to Hudson

If you're in the mood for juxtaposing well-worn Victorian charm with big city comforts and a bit of edginess. Stay at Inn at Hudson, drink a perfectly pulled espresso at Swallow, check out the mini food truck emporium on Warren Street, have killer (local, sustainable, homemade) burger with the works at the retro-fitted '50s diner Grazin', and finish off with a nightcap and live show at Helsinki.
Route to take: Ride Amtrak right into town; zip up from NYC in a car on 87.
Good to know: Check the schedule for happenings at the cathedral-like Basilica Hudson, an old glue factory that's been turned into a performing arts space.
Read more on Fathom: The Best of City and Country Rolled Into One Little Weekend in Hudson, New York

Head to Ithaca

If you're in the mood for a healthy dose of counter-culturalism and hippie goodness. The Argos Inn, a LEED-certified 10-room inn meticulously renovated with heated stone slab floors, velvet drapes, and turn-of-the-century Bergere chairs. It's a ten-minute walk from your velvet-flocked suite to the iconic Moosewood restaurant, which turned all-natural cooking and '70s-era co-operative business ideals into a full-fledge vegetarian kitchen collective. Obviously, pick up a cookbook. Morning coffees can and should be had at the original Gimme! Coffee (now a Brooklyn mainstay). Besides swimming holes and architectural tours of nearby Cornell campus (I.M. Pei! Koolhaus! Richard Meier!), you're spitting distance from the Finger Lakes wine country.
Route to take: Make it scenic and curve up the Catskill Mountains. Make a sweet rest stop for a few scoops of ice cream made from Cornell's own dairy farm.
Read more on Fathom: This Is Where Locavore Was Born

Head to Livingston Manor

If you're in the mood for a monastic environment. Book a weekend at Dai Bosatsu Zendo, a Japanese Buddhist sanctuary where you can workshop the basics of being — like breathing and being quiet.
Route to take: The Palisades (from NYC) are soothing and scenic.
Good to know: No prior Zen practice necessary. And if you want your alone time with somebody, you can rent a small cottage on the premises.

Head to Montauk

If you're in the mood for an easy, breezy beach weekend. Ruschmeyer's has a retro camp vibe, but the best way to hang is by renting a little something you can call home.
Route to take: Drive very early in the morning or very late at night on 495 to Sunrise Highway to the very end of Montauk Highway (avoid traffic by using GPS to navigate back roads).
Good to know: BYOB seafood shack Duryea's Lobster Deck and Fishbar on the Lake are musts.
Read more on Fathom: Hamptons Guide and Montauk Master Plan

Head to the North Fork

If you're in the mood for large plots of farmland, farmstands, U-picks, and wineries. Book at slow-food hang North Fork Table and Inn.
Route to take: Tiny town centers dot the Main Road (Route 25) and Sound Avenue (Route 48).
Good to know: The Custer Observatory is open every Saturday from dusk to midnight for stargazing.
While in the area: see our North Fork hit list.

Head to Phoenicia

If you're in the mood for agritourism with a Dutch design bent. Try Stony Creek Farm in Walton, where fancy tents with wood-burning stoves are nestled on a working farm. Nightly harvests become dinner.
Route to take: Take 87 and stop in for a tour of Tuthilltown Spirits, the distillery where Hudson Baby Bourbon is made.
Good to know: The culinary cognoscenti of NYC get their prime cuts from Fleisher's Meats; you can pick up breakfast sausages at their full-service butcher shop.
Read more on Fathom: Catskills Hit List

Head to Shandelee

If you're in the mood for hiking, biking, foraging, and dozing off in the sun. The Arnold House, an adorably Instagrammable 10-room inn (Sferra linens, Pendelton blankets, cork floors), is the perfect setting for your country retreat. Being the proper hosts that they are, the Foster family proprietors offer plenty of fun activities (ice fishing in the winter, ramp foraging in the spring, ravioli making at nearby Northern Farmhouse Pasta).
Route to take: Wind through the Palisades and continue northwest from NYC.
Good to know: If you didn't bring your own pooch (the hotel provides dog beds, water bowls, housemade treats), spend some time cuddling with Adelaide, the English Bulldog.

Head to West Kill

If you're in the mood for the simple Catskill pleasures. Star at the Spruceton Inn, a Catskills "bed & bar" with mountain views. Get your pancakes stacked at Phoenicia Diner. Work off the carbs with a picturesque hike to Diamond Notch Falls, a serious hike up Overlook Mountain, or, come winter, some ski tubing on Plattekill Mountain. Dine on savory pies at Table on Ten. Ride Icelandic horses on quiet trails. Or, back at the inn, just play some bocce and make some snacks in your own kitchenette or on the grill.
Route to take: Hit the Palisades and roll through Woodstock. No wheels? Coordinate a pick-up with your guest house after catching the Trailways bus from Port Authority.
Good to know: Leave plenty of time to get home so that you can stop for antiques and farmstand souvenirs: raw milk and gouda from Byebrook Farm; old thingamabobs from Lyon Mountain Blue Barn Antiques; farmy furniture at Wood Bull antiques; honey and grass-fed meats from Stone & Thistle.
Read more on Fathom: Where to Go from NYC, the Catskills Checklist

Head to Lake Placid

If you’re in the mood for adult summer camp in the Adirondacks. Check out Wild Walk, the “High Line of the Forest,” a museum experience suspended in the treetops of Tupper Lake. Canoe or kayak down the Raquette River, and end the day with a good meal and a better cocktail at Liquids and Solids.
Route to take: Hit the Taconic Parkway from New York City.
Good to know: Stay at Whiteface Lodge for a well-appointed resort experience, or camp near Lake Placid, Saranac Lake, or Tupper Lake for a real back-to-nature experience.
Read more on Fathom: A Walk in the Woods Above NY’s Adirondacks

RHODE ISLAND

Photo courtesy of The Ocean House.

Head to Watch Hill/Weekapaug

If you're in the mood for a gorgeous beach escape with excellent cuisine to match. The recently revamped Weekapaug Inn where sail boats, fishing gear, and a discreet, black-bottomed pool are all at your disposal. A meal of locally caught lobster, Matunuck oysters, and native beets is as memorable as the sunsets overlooking bucolic Quonochontaug Pond.
Route to take: Head south on the I-95. On the way back to civilization, stock up on freshly baked chocolate chunk and molasses cookies at gourmet emporium The Cooked Goose.
Good to know: Killer Swedish massages at Relais & Chateaux sister property The Ocean House are a Zen bonus.
Read more on Fathom: Summer with the Kids in Watch Hill

VERMONT

Photo courtesy of Woodstock Inn.

Head to Woodstock

If you're in the mood for quintessential Americana combined with a new, LEED-certified spa. Book the grand Woodstock Inn in New England's most picture-postcard-perfect town. They have a serene spa and delicious farm-to-table cuisine in its casual Red Rooster restaurant. Head across the quaint village green outside your front door and make stops at the old-school Gillingham's general store and Yankee Bookshop before a lovely dinner-a-deux at The Prince and The Pauper, a town institution.
Route to take: The Taconic Parkway from NYC. It might be a slightly longer route, but the scenery — and a stop at the old-school Millbrook Diner (3266 Franklin Ave.; +1-845-677-5319) — makes it worth it.
Good to know: Do not skip town without a stop for black raspberry ice cream cones at the White Cottage Snack Bar. Open only in summer, this low-key spot is worth a serious, deep-fried detour.

Head to Burlington

If you’re in the mood for getting back in touch with nature and ending the day with a fantastic craft beer. Stay at eco-friendly Hotel Vermont and dine next door at Chef Eric Warnstedt’s revered restaurant Hen of the Wood. Do some boutique shopping on Church Street, or head down the hill to Lake Champlain for lakeside activites in the summer and winter.
Route to take: On your way into the city, stop at Shelburne Farms, a nonprofit farm focused on sustainability education, for tours of their historic barns, tons of scenic walking trails, and classic Vermont foodstuffs from the farm store.
Good to know: August First Bakery may not allow laptops, but they have the best bread downtown.
Read more on Fathom: It’s All Small Town Good Vibes in Burlington, Vermont

MORE FATHOM-APPROVED GETAWAYS

Have you seen our list of the Most Romantic Hotels in The Northeast?

Special thanks to contributors Devorah Klein Lev-Tov, Christina Ohly, and Ilaria Urbinati.

A Kid-Centric Weekend in the Windy City

Balancing kid-friendly fancies with mature tastes is the key to any tantrum-free family getaway. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly tackled the task with her daughter during a weekend in Chicago. Here's what she did.

CHICAGO – It had easily been ten years since my last non-work trip to Chicago, and with a short weekend window presenting itself, my eleven-year-old daughter Kate and I decided to head to the Windy City for hefty doses of architecture, culture, relaxation, great food, and visits with friends. The manageable city on the shores of Lake Michigan didn't disappoint, and we came away feeling relaxed, rejuvenated, and extremely well fed.

DAY ONE: THE LOOP, THE MAGNIFICENT MILE, AND MORE

With less than 36 hours, we hit the ground running and went straight for Millennium Park for the famed Anish Kapoor sculpture Cloud Gate, which locals refer to as "The Bean." The beautiful, mirrored droplet inspired by liquid mercury is wonderful for all ages and reflects the surrounding skyline and architecture to dazzling effect. A twelve-foot high arch beneath the piece makes for fun explorating. We could easily have spent half the day exploring Millennium Park's Crown Fountain, Lurie Garden, and the Frank Gehry-designed BP Bridge.

But we were off to Art Institute of Chicago to marvel at the permanent collections. We stopped for lunch in the Renzo Piano-designed wing at Terzo Piano — a minimalist, pure white space with a menu of mezzes, flatbreads, and creative salads. Perfect museum fare. Well fed, we went back down Michigan Avenue, stopping at various Walgreen's along the way. Yes, really. The concept of the "drugstore" takes on a whole new meaning in Chicago, and at select branches (like the one in the iconic Wrigley Building), we found fresh sushi (complete with on-site chef!), pricey liquor, and treasures that made for one-stop shopping in a gilt-trimmed setting.

Smiles for the cupcake experience.

The restaurant, and its portions, are massive. Photo courtesy of Hugo's Frog Bar.

After we took the obligatory photos on the Chicago River bridge, we pushed on to the shopping area that typifies the area they call "Gold Coast" for good reason. Magnificent Mile is packed with big-ticket designer boutiques (Prada, Gucci, Hermes), and the adjoining streets have more accessible spots like Sprinkles Cupcakes on East Walton Street. For the uninitiated, this is a confectionary concept that features a cupcake ATM that is restocked 24 hours a day with a variety of insanely sweet treats for people. And dogs, too. This was, by far, the highlight of Chicago, as far as Kate was concerned.

Refueled once again, we scouted other restaurants like Jellyfish (inventive sushi in a glass atrium), Carmine's (enormous portions of Italian red-sauce classics), and Hugo's Frog Bar (terrible name; excellent seafood). Hugo's is a fun, nautically themed concept for parents and kids alike. They serve huge plates of shrimp cocktail, planked Lake Superior whitefish, and beautiful charbroiled burgers. Think BIG!

After a lot of walking, eating, and drinking (we found coffee and tea shops on virtually every corner, which was a nice way to combat Chicago's notorious chill), we went back to The Peninsula Hotel to relax in the spa. I'm not usually one for massages and treatments, but I'd heard wonderful things about their Bamboo Harmonizer massage and decided to give it a whirl. The treatment is designed to suck away negative energy and stimulate the flow of positive qi energy. (Yes, please!) It was the most thoroughly relaxing 90 minutes I've ever experienced. Maybe it was the combination of warm bamboo rods being rolled all over my tired legs and feet or the gentle clacking sound of the wood, but I fell asleep hard and awoke completely reinvigorated. Do carve out time for this one.

After prying ourselves from the hotel, we went to Bistronomic, a bustling bistro just around the corner, for dinner. Our was a multi-generational group, and everyone found something on the menu. Ddelicious terrines of tuna tartare, garlicky escargot, and crispy duck confit — all French classics infused with modern flair. A huge Baked Alaska (keeping it old-school) made for the perfect ending to a memorable meal and a packed day.

Obscenely gooey delicious. Photo courtesy of Bistronomic.

DAY TWO: PANCAKES, DAVID BOWIE, AND A KICK-ASS AQUARIUM

Another winner in the big food category is Pancake House, a downtown breakfast staple that serves excellent omelets in a traditional, diner ambience. From here, we went to Museum of Contemporary Art to see the exhibit "David Bowie Is." While this may not be the most kid-friendly content (what with all the coke spoons, sex, and colorful language), the highly interactive show features music, film footage, and outlandish costumes, including Ziggy Stardust bodysuits and Alexander McQueen coats. This was the show's only North American stop, and it was so worth a detour. (Lady Gaga wouldn't be Gaga without the influence of Bowie.) MCA's well-stocked gift shop sells everything from Union Jack throws and pillows to Andromeda iPhone covers to "Let's Dance" earrings.

A psychedelic sea creature dance party. Photo by Cwillbounds / Flickr.

After circling back to the hotel to pick up our complimentary Mini Cooper (this can be arranged in advance and was second only to Sprinkles Cupcakes in my daughter's "cool" view), we headed to Shedd Aquarium on the other side of town. As it's one of the largest aquariums in the world, you'll want to plan your visit in advance. I highly recommend the technicolor "Jellies" exhibit (on view until January 2015) because those amorphous creatures are pretty entrancing.

In the name of research, we stopped by Foodlife in Water Tower Place, a place that takes the food court concept to an entirely new level. Foodlife is a collection of casual dining concepts within one main, bustling space. Separate kitchens turn out excellent, fresh food that ranges from sushi and inventive salads to signature Chicago deep-dish pizza. Dedicated dessert areas serving custom-made crepes were the culinary highlight for the younger members of our entourage. And if I'm being honest, this is my favorite way to eat too — a bit of this, a bit of that.

Step inside a captured German U-boat. Photo by Abadonmi01 / Flickr.

If time or weather had allowed, I would have taken a Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise because it's the best way to learn about the city's rich architectural history. My next trip will also include a stop at Museum of Science and Industry to see its U-505 German submarine from World War II, Omnimax Theatre, and mirror mazes.

Our last stop, Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse, didn't disappoint for early dinner. This is exactly the kind of food and atmosphere I expect from Chicago: enormous steaks, wedge salads loaded with bacon and blue cheese, and Bookbinder's soup in a warm, wood-paneled setting. The completely unpretentious meal was the perfect end to our whirlwind weekend. We made our way to the airport feeling sated in every way.

The chocolate bar and the Shanghai Terrace. Photos courtesy of Peninsula Hotel.

WHERE TO STAY

The Peninsula in the heart of downtown Chicago tops my list. This particular outpost just gets kids/tweens/teens. We were greeted at 9 p.m. by a dessert bar in the main dining room that was Willy Wonka-esque in every way. Vats of candies, make-your-own sundae bars, a waffle station, and chocolate bon-bons all made for the perfect, warm Midwest welcome.

Our spacious room was no less impressive, with its Fili D'oro linens, endless amenities (stuffed animals, Oscar de La Renta creams, fresh fruit platters), and sweeping views of Water Tower Park and the lake in the distance. Highlights included a sprawling swimming pool — complete with glorious, twenty-foot windows and plush robes — a Zen spa, and Shanghai Terrace, the hotel's dim sum hotspot that's long on shrimp dumplings and has a red lacquer vibe. Add in a small skating rink that's open during the winter months, and this spot is pretty much kid nirvana.

Just down the street you'll find the relatively new Thompson Hotel, a Tara Bernerd-designed gem that features lots of warm wood, modernist light fixtures, and living walls at every turn. In-house restaurant Nico Osteria is worth a stop for lunch or dinner and serves some of the best crudo and housemade taglioni — not to mention biscotti and maple gelati — that I've tasted anywhere (Italy included).

Also worth mentioning: Park Hyatt, Ritz Carlton Chicago (now managed by Four Seasons), and a new Waldorf Astoria that offers spacious rooms and suites, many of which are specifically designed to accommodate families. All of these hotels are perfectly positioned for exploring the stylish Gold Coast area, nearby Michigan Avenue, and the many great restaurants located within a five-block radius.

HOW TO GET THERE

The numerous flight options in and out of Chicago O'Hare International Airport (ORD) make traveling with kids and changing plans at a moment's notice (my forte) easy and manageable. While Chicago is a United Airlines hub, I recommend American Airlines for Terminal 3's food offerings alone. Celebrated chef Rick Bayless' Tortas Frontera — an incredible restaurant specializing in warm, open-faced sandwiches of smoked bacon and tres queso — makes a long layover almost worth it.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Chicago, One Neighborhood at a Time
Chicago: How to Eat Like a Local
Two Bars, One Big Appetite

South Africa's Luxe and Low-Key Tswalu Redefines the Safari

Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.

KALAHARI DESERT, South Africa – From the moment I arrived at the Johannesburg airport for the flight to Tswalu, a truly unique game reserve located in the southern part of the Kalahari Desert, I knew this one was going to be different. My family and I boarded their luxurious Pilatus plane for the one-and-a-half hour hop to Tswalu's dedicated airstrip, warmly welcomed and escorted to a thatched roof terminal, and were greeted with thousands of chirping sociable weaver birds. The eco-adventure had begun!

What sets Tswalu apart is not so much its red sand dunes and sprawling grasslands — though those certainly make for spectacular viewing — but the completely relaxed pace and tasteful motse (the local Tswana word for "village") that create a safari unlike any other I've experienced. After checking into one of the eight spacious legae — "little houses" — you'll have to pry yourself from your sun terrace in order to take in the game which you've theoretically come to see. No detail has been overlooked, and while the suites are utterly simple (think minimalist contemporary furnishings mixed with traditional African baskets and art) the details — outdoor showers and big, open fireplaces — make them special.

The Motse deck.

Tswalu offers a bespoke safari experience. Gone are the 5 a.m. wake-up calls (unless you want them), endless off-schedule meals, and the quest for the Big Five. Tswalu — a thousand-square-kilometer reserve that is a labor of love for the Oppenheimer family — is all about conservation and land use, as well as the pursuit of animals that are not easily found elsewhere. Enormous black-maned Kalahari lions dazzle. So do families of frolicking meerkats, elegant giraffes strolling across open plains, and the elusive aardvark. It is also a birder's paradise, with over two hundred rare species readily on view. There is no sense of imminent danger here and that makes Tswalu what I refer to as "safari lite": you will constantly see, do, and learn, but without the threat of being some animal's next meal.

A horseback safari.

The guides and trackers are top-notch ecologists who lead safaris in a Land Rover, on horseback, or even on foot so that you can get up close to nature. Tracking takes on new meaning here. Our guide was happy to alight from the vehicle, rifle in hand, and bushwhack until he found prides of lions and desert black rhinos languishing in the mid-day sun. Other highlights included sleeping under the stars, eating a delicious lunch by the motse pool, and receiving authentic spa treatments that incorporate indigenous red dune sand, desert minerals, and botanical fibres. Add to this the absence of malaria and a warm community comprised of 142 staff members (plus a peek into their eco-friendly housing, preschool, dedicated health clinic, and adult literacy programmes) and you get a real sense of how Tswalu is transforming this massive area, in terms of both environmental conservation and education.

With only twenty guests at a time, Tswalu feels more like an intimate, low-key house party than a Relais & Chateaux nestled at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. Its stated mission is "to restore the Kalahari to itself"; and I left this magical place feeling as though I'd been restored to myself as well.

Photo by Christina Ohly.

FIND IT

Tswalu Kalahari
+27-0-53-781-9331
res@tswalu.com

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Losing My Virginity on Safari
Uganda on Safari: The Pearl of Africa
Debrief: Bruce Bromberg in South Africa

Finding Peace in Porto Ercole, Italy

Just off the Tuscan coastline equidistant to Rome and Florence lies Monte Argentario, a bizarrely-shaped peninsula connected to the mainland by three narrow strips of land. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly and her family checked into Il Pellicano, a posh hotel in Porto Ercole on the southern end of the island.

There are a few places left on earth where genocide, the crumbling euro, and any sort of reality simply cease to exist. Il Pellicano, a luxurious yet laid back bolthole on Italy's Tuscan coast, is one such place. It's personal and cool, which makes it endearing. And it's a little shabby chic, which means there definitely won't be rappers or Russian oligarchs occupying the next beach chair.

My family and I recently spent a few languid days of sun, spa, and signature jumbo club sandwiches delivered poolside. Dolce vita indeed.

WHAT TO DO

Not too much. This is Italy, after all, where the stars of a "big" day are your iconic yellow-and-white pool lounger and copious amounts of the hotel's freshly squeezed succhi di frutta (apricot, peach, and blueberry varieties are excellent).

This is the place to quietly read, reflect, and play the odd game of tennis or backgammon. The most strenuous decision you'll encounter is whether to take a day trip on Pellicano's elegant wooden boat, Riva (so Med!), from the private, cliff-side dock or whether to order local langoustines for lunch.

Despite its price point (25 euros for a sandwich), Il Pellicano feels small, chic, and casual, with a library, DVDs, tennis rackets, and ping pong paddles all for communal use.

Definitely take it off campus at least once to explore nearby towns like Pitigliano, where you'll find Etruscan ruins and typical Tuscan trattorias. And Sovana, a medieval village with a wonderful palazzo and picturesque pizzas. Kids will love Il Giardino dei Tarocchi ("Tarot Garden"), Niki de Saint Phalle's brightly-colored sculptural park. Natural Park of Maremma is a wonderful place to see wildlife and explore the area on horseback.

MANGIARE BENE

Food is, naturally, a major focus of any Italian day, and the options here will not disappoint. Everything is delicious and locally sourced: the enormous breakfast served on an idyllic terrace, lunch al fresco at the Tuscan PelliGrill, and lavish, two-Michelin-starred Il Pellicano Ristorante. What this place really has going for it is that they serve food that you really want to eat — gazpacho, insalata caprese, and spaghetti alla chitarra ai frutti di mare (seafood galore) — and not overdone, complicated dishes.

That said, when the craving for a plain, wood-fired pizza strikes, you won't find it here. This is when you head into town for dinner on the charming Porto Ercole harbor, where you'll find a bustling, yet low-key nightlife that is focused on families wandering the piers and eating in outdoor trattorias. The best among these are Gambero Rosso and La Lampara (Lungo Mare Andrea Doria, 68; +39-0564-833024), where you'll eat the homemade pastas, line-caught seabass, and crispy pizzas that inspired your trip in the first place.

DON'T MISS

The chairs at the water's edge at Il Pellicano afford views of the deep, blue sea with majestic islands dotted across the horizon. This is the perfect place to watch scantily clad Europeans slather themselves in oil, light the occasional cigarette, and gesticulate wildly as they speak many different languages. Two days, and you'll feel completely removed from any worries you may have had going in.

The spa and gift shop are also pretty wonderful at Il Pellicano. The carefully curated store has Eres bathing suits, Anya Hindmarch bags with Porto Ercole imagery, and perfectly floaty sarongs that play well in this part of the world. This being Italy, the entire gym is yours to use — even at peak hours — which is a nice touch at such a small resort. Luxurious (if wildly expensive) massages and pedicures are also available with minimal advance notice.

If ever there were a place to sip tropical cocktails, it's at All'Aperto Bar, conveniently located between the pool and the main house. Watch dusk give way to starry skies with a summer Bellini (and at 23 Euros per, you might want just one) and raise a glass to your good fortune.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

There are a variety of room types at Il Pellicano. None work particularly well for families as they do not inter-connect. Then again, this place doesn't have kid-friendly written all over it any way, which I mean in the best possible way.

If you're looking for value for money, get a garden view room, which has a pleasant terrace and views of the tennis court or surrounding mountain landscape. Stunning rooms with sea views will more than triple the price but are ideal for special, secluded stays.

The drinks and snacks in the mini bar are free — though not much else is. Bring a bottle of water or an aranciata with you to the pool, and you'll save approximately 9 euros a pop.

GETTING THERE

Fly: One of the selling points of Porto Ercole — and the Maremma area of Tuscany in general — is its ease of execution on the travel front. Fly to Rome or Florence and you're gazing out over the sea in just under two hours.

Drive: The resort is on a cliff and it's not near much. You'll absolutely need to rent a car to get to there and to explore the small towns.

FIND IT

Il Pellicano
Località Sbarcatello 
58019 Porto Ercole 
Grosseto, Italy
+39-0564-858111
reservations@pellicanohotels.com 

South Africa's Luxe and Low-Key Tswalu Redefines the Safari

Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.

KALAHARI DESERT, South Africa – From the moment I arrived at the Johannesburg airport for the flight to Tswalu, a truly unique game reserve located in the southern part of the Kalahari Desert, I knew this one was going to be different. My family and I boarded their luxurious Pilatus plane for the one-and-a-half hour hop to Tswalu's dedicated airstrip, warmly welcomed and escorted to a thatched roof terminal, and were greeted with thousands of chirping sociable weaver birds. The eco-adventure had begun!

What sets Tswalu apart is not so much its red sand dunes and sprawling grasslands — though those certainly make for spectacular viewing — but the completely relaxed pace and tasteful motse (the local Tswana word for "village") that create a safari unlike any other I've experienced. After checking into one of the eight spacious legae — "little houses" — you'll have to pry yourself from your sun terrace in order to take in the game which you've theoretically come to see. No detail has been overlooked, and while the suites are utterly simple (think minimalist contemporary furnishings mixed with traditional African baskets and art) the details — outdoor showers and big, open fireplaces — make them special.

Tswalu offers a bespoke safari experience. Gone are the 5 a.m. wake-up calls (unless you want them), endless off-schedule meals, and the quest for the Big Five. Tswalu — a thousand-square-kilometer reserve that is a labor of love for the Oppenheimer family — is all about conservation and land use, as well as the pursuit of animals that are not easily found elsewhere. Enormous black-maned Kalahari lions dazzle. So do families of frolicking meerkats, elegant giraffes strolling across open plains, and the elusive aardvark. It is also a birder's paradise, with over two hundred rare species readily on view. There is no sense of imminent danger here and that makes Tswalu what I refer to as "safari lite": you will constantly see, do, and learn, but without the threat of being some animal's next meal.

The guides and trackers are top-notch ecologists who lead safaris in a Land Rover, on horseback, or even on foot so that you can get up close to nature. Tracking takes on new meaning here. Our guide was happy to alight from the vehicle, rifle in hand, and bushwhack until he found prides of lions and desert black rhinos languishing in the mid-day sun. Other highlights included sleeping under the stars, eating a delicious lunch by the motse pool, and receiving authentic spa treatments that incorporate indigenous red dune sand, desert minerals, and botanical fibres. Add to this the absence of malaria and a warm community comprised of 142 staff members (plus a peek into their eco-friendly housing, preschool, dedicated health clinic, and adult literacy programmes) and you get a real sense of how Tswalu is transforming this massive area, in terms of both environmental conservation and education.

With only twenty guests at a time, Tswalu feels more like an intimate, low-key house party than a Relais & Chateaux nestled at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. Its stated mission is "to restore the Kalahari to itself"; and I left this magical place feeling as though I'd been restored to myself as well.

FIND IT

Tswalu Kalahari
+27-0-53-781-9331
res@tswalu.com

Bahamas with the Kids: Harbour Island Essentials

It's not that this three-mile stretch of sand in the Bahamas is unknown. It’s that Harbour Island's relative inaccessibility has kept developers, big hotels, and obnoxious types away. Their loss is your gain: delicious food, the most pristine pink sand beach on the planet, just enough nightlife, and a pleasingly international vibe. (Nassau is an easy flight from Europe, which explains the Brits, the Italians, the French.) The perfect mix of local warmth and nice amenities, Harbour Island is a far cry from the kids clubs and sprawling spas so common at mega resorts. In other words, the island may be pricey, but that won’t stop the chickens and lizards from wandering across your patio.

WHERE TO STAY

The two-bedroom casitas at Pink Sands are great for families. The Balinese vibe was cultivated by the former owner, British music exec-turned-hotelier Chris Blackwell, and it leaves you feeling even farther away. The beach is gorgeous and the water is calm, clear, and shallow. Just down the path is Blue Bar, great for patio dining overlooking the sea — and for a Goombay Smash, the killer Bahamian rum drink that will kick anyone's ass. Coral Sands next door is under the same management and is another good option for cool parents and kids. Both properties have saltwater pools, but neither has fancy fitness facilities.

WHERE TO EAT

Head to town. The Landing is incomparable: amazing local ingredients (langoustines, grouper, fresh chicken curry), refined yet simple cuisine, a beautiful setting under trees, twinkling lights. Kids love the easy feeling of the India Hicks-backed venture; parents love lazing on outdoor settees aside the odd luminary. The Rolling Stones, Lenny Kravitz, Uma and Arki — all island regulars. (For more info, read The Landing postcard.) Mornings must begin with freshly baked Bahamian herb bread or croissants at Arthur's Bakery.

When you’re ready for a night without the progeny, ask Pink Sands to call a sweet sitter and head to Rock House for the gay/Euro/fabulous scene and the cuisine. Here, too, the focus is on fresh, locally caught fish and ingredients. The crowd stays late, lounging on couches around a central, sleek pool area. How totally Ibiza. 

WHAT TO DO

My kids loved taking a guided boat ride with Duke, a local conch and bone fisherman. Just ask for him at the town dock. The affable Duke picks up starfish, follows sea turtles, and finds shallow bays where kids can swim. Golf carts are de riguer on Harbour Island, and what kid doesn’t love a golf cart? The snorkeling is terrific, as is watching the conch guys come in with the day’s catch and clean the beautiful shells. It won’t take much to make you happy here. 

WHERE TO SHOP

All ages love the Dilly Dally, located at the main intersection in town, for Bahamamian straw goods, "briland" tees, postcards, and jewelry and ornaments crafted from pink conch shells. (In other words, the irresistible trinkets you buy on holiday and start questioning on the plane ride home.) India Hicks' Sugar Mill is the glamorous source for caftans, European finds, and beach gear. Ditto the Blue Rooster on King Street, where you'll find gorgeous sundresses, scarves, and unique sandals. Even a trip to mini-supermarket The Piggly Wiggly is good fun, just to see what came in on the boat from the mainland that day.

First Look: Bahia Vik, Jose Ignacio

Bahia Vik, set to open any day now in Jose Ignacio, is already poised to be one of the hottest destinations of the winter season. Contributing editor Christina Ohly was one of the first to get a look around. 

JOSE IGNACIO, Uruguay – If you're looking for the ultimate sunset, overlooking ten acres of sprawling dunes, then Bahia Vik has your name written all over it.

CHECKING IN

Set to open in winter 2014 in time for high season, the hotel is a perfect compliment to Vik Retreats sister properties Playa Vik, just down the beach, and Estancia Vik, their equestrian "farm" situated inland. Bahia Vik features contemporary Uruguayan art, sleek furnishings, and minimalist pools at every turn. Environmentally friendly casitas are understated yet luxurious at the same time and everything tastefully melds into the the oceanfront landscape.

In the Room

Eleven unique bungalows and 37 guest rooms and suites range in style and finish, but each incorporates indigenous Uruguayan woods and grey slate for an overall sleek aesthetic. Art remains a huge focus for at any Vik (don't miss the James Turrell light installation at Playa Vik next door), and here the exuberant artwork is not only decorative, but real conversation starters as well.

Room with a View

Rooms are wildly expensive in the high season, but you get what you pay for, and every service is top-notch yet low-key at the same time. I stayed in a two-bedroom suite with my preteen kids who loved the big, comfortable beds and excellent snacks.

The bright, colorful, art-filled rooms.

What's on Site

I love a hotel with separate swimming pools for kids and adults, as it takes the pressure off everyone involved. Not that you need a pool, as Magna beach at your doorstep has gentle surf and some of the best South American people watching you'll find anywhere. (Microscopic bikinis are de rigueur.) Bahia guests can horseback ride at the nearby Estancia property or stroll down the dunes for a perfectly grilled hamburger or fresh sushi at the Vik's La Susana restaurant. In addition, a state-of-art spa and a well-appointed gym offer healthy diversions (no lines at the latter!).

The Food

Breakfast includes a complimentary buffet of yogurts, cheeses, and freshly baked local delicacies, but fluffy omelettes and pancakes appear in record time as well. Soy latte? Gluten intolerance? Nothing seems to throw this crew off, and they are genuinely happy to please every palate.

This Place Is Perfect for

Anyone with a pulse. Families are in full effect at the holidays, but honeymooners can find peace and quiet in sun-filled courtyards and poolside.

But Not So Perfect For

A recluse. Although why would one come here in the first place? Jose Ignacio is about wonderful, communal asados, parties, and long days spent at the beach or on horseback. If you're Type A or in a hurry, best to give this a pass.

The setting. Photo courtesy of Vik Resorts.

History, Hollywood, Heaven: San Ysidro Ranch

Contributing editor Christina Ohly has a knack for finding the world's loveliest hotels. She's found her ultimate in Montecito, California.

SANTA BARBARA, California – History, old Hollywood, and hospitality in the extreme meet at San Ysidro Ranch, a citrus farm-turned-luxury hideaway nestled in the foothills above Montecito. I have wanted to visit this special hotel for years — and even noted it on my Fathom travel wish list — primarily because I'd heard such wonderful things about the food (almost all of it locally sourced), the laid-back atmosphere combined with scrupulous attention to detail, and the scenic hiking trails that surround the sprawling, 500-acre spread. I was not disappointed on any front, and San Ysidro Ranch has shot to the number one position on my list of favorite hotels of all time. We're talking an overall outstanding user experience — a 12 on a scale of 1-10. There are not adequate words to describe the perfection you'll find here, but it's an understatement to say that San Ysidro is worth a detour, a long weekend, a honeymoon, a mellow family vacation, or all of the above. We're talking Nirvana here.

Bliss at San Ysidro begins in the driveway.

It all begins upon check-in, which isn't really a registration at all, as you are greeted in the driveway and whisked straight to your lovely yet low-key cottage. No pesky paperwork here. They cater to a clientele that likes privacy: Silicon Valley techpreneurs, Hollywood starlets.

If you're really looking to splash out, the Ty Warner Cottage, with private patio and pool, is as swank as it gets.

Our home for three days — and you really do feel as if the house is yours — came complete with sumptuous robes, stacks of reading material, and freshly made snacks at every turn. The difference here is in the little touches: endless chips and salsa, local wines on ice, crisp copies of the Financial Times at the crack of dawn. Nothing has been overlooked, and sitting on my bougainvillea-laden porch watching the sunset with a cold Diet Coke in hand was simply perfection.

Bungalow-style cottages are individually designed, with big sitting rooms, tons of amenities, and peaceful terraces.

The Magnolia room has cozy spaces and a wood-burning fireplace.

Bathrooms have high ceilings and claw-foot bathtubs.

Each cottage is decorated differently, and whether you're in the most basic one-bedroom or in the spacious Ty Warner Cottage (so named after the current owner and Beanie Baby entrepreneur), the bathrooms have soaring ceilings and tubs that are made for soaking. The décor is not the least bit slick or mod, but rather country chic, which only adds to the overall charm and ambience.

The main hacienda — the reception area — was once the focal part of the ranch and now provides a spacious place for people to commune with others (never happens), play board games, and enjoy a constant supply of warm cookies. You're likely to run into Seamus McManus, an Irishman and a consummate hotelier who is happy to share stories about the Ranch and its celebrity-studded past: Audrey Hepburn, Bing Crosby, Winston Churchill, and President and Jackie Kennedy all spent time here, and Hollywood's A-list now comes with kids in tow.

The Stonehouse patio serves delicious food, much of it from the Ranch's organic garden.

The Plow & Angel serves SoCal versions of classic pub fare.

The highlights (and there are so many) are the hotel's two restaurants — the slightly more formal Stonehouse and the relaxed Plow & Angel, where farm-to-table eating takes on a whole new meaning. Much of the produce is grown on the Ranch's organic garden and the cuisine is simply top-notch — and brilliantly simple. I had some of the best wood-fired pizzas and sashimi I've ever tasted beneath an arbor of twinkling orange trees. This being wine country, the lists are extensive, and the sommeliers are approachable and happy to educate anyone (my curious kids included) about local vintages and $5,000 bottles alike. Breakfast is not served in either restaurant, as guests typically prefer to take it in their rooms in front of the fireplace or on their front porch with sweeping views and fragrant magnolia and orange blossoms.

The chic simple pool area.

There are more than seventeen miles of manicured yet challenging hiking trails that run through the property, as well as a minimalist-chic hilltop pool that I could easily spend a month lolling beside.

Nestled in the foothills of Montecito, San Ysidro Ranch has about five hundred acres of spectacular gardens, hiking trails, and elegant cottages.

With 360° degree views of the Santa Ynez Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, San Ysidro Ranch will make you forget civilization in the best possible way. You'll only interact with other guests as you'd like. I can still see the California light, taste the scrumptious food, and feel the gentle warmth of that Santa Barbara sun. I'm hoping my Zen lasts until I can return to this utterly tasteful, tranquil spot.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fly: Santa Barbara Municipal Airport is 15 miles away. Otherwise, Los Angeles is about 100 miles south. San Ysidro Ranch is located just off Highway 101.

FIND IT

San Ysidro Ranch
900 San Ysidro Lane
Santa Barbara, CA
+1-805-565-1700
guestservice@sanysidrorancy.com
sanysidroranch.com

Hey Kids, Let's Go to LA

Los Angeles: A surprisingly great place for a quick family getaway. Three days is all you need to see a little bit of everything.

LOS ANGELES – Looking for a great warm-weather getaway that includes sun, sand, sea, and a James Beard Award-winning taco truck or two? Search no further than Los Angeles, one of my favorite spots for kids and grown-ups alike. And remember: No matter what the weather is where you are right now, it's always summer in LA.

SETTLE IN

Los Angeles is usually an easy place to get to with frequent flyer miles, which saves a nice penny. Once you've landed at LAX, with its Jetsons-esque control tower, head straight for the Fairmont Miramar in seaside Santa Monica. Less well known than nearby Shutters and Casa del Mar hotels, the Miramar offers the perfect mix of old Hollywood (bungalows and industry types taking meetings on the patio) and proximity to the beach. The property is off Ocean Boulevard, just five minutes from the Santa Monica Pier (aka Kid Heaven) and the hotel's fully-staffed beach cabanas, where you'll feel secluded amidst tall palms and relative calm.

DAY 1: The Warm-Up

If you're living large, book a bi-level bungalow. They're perfect for families and offer multiple terraces for swimsuit drying and picnics of decadent room service pancakes. The pool area is, of course, key for any kid, and the Miramar's amorphous version — complete with hot tub — doesn't disappoint. Ditto Fig Restaurant, which is twenty feet from the pool area. Hotel restaurant haters out there, stop your eyerolling and prepare for foodie greatness. Chef Ray Garcia's creative take on the classic California chopped salad features only fresh, organic, locally grown ingredients from the nearby Santa Monica Farmers Market. Everyone will love simple grilled cheese (gruyère or cheddar with tomato jam), pasta-less lasagna, and BLTs that are beyond compare.

After idling and eating, you'll want to take it off-campus. I find the best days with children include a mix of culture, playgrounds, and delicious food. Head up shop-lined Montana Avenue to the outdoor mini-mall Brentwood Country Mart. "Mini-mall" may be a stretch: Reese Witherspoon buys her trendy cover-ups and artisinal ice cream cones here. Kids will love pony rides in the parking lot on weekends and fish tacos and fries in the "food court." I stock up on tiny Tretorn tennies at Poppy Store, possibly my favorite children's store in the United States. A one-stop shop for toys, gifts, and basics, Poppy carries a perfectly edited mix of tasteful European brands (like England's Caramel Baby and Child) and American originals — all perfectly packaged, too. Kids will be distracted by the 25-cent ride-on toys outside the shop's window (talk about a throwback), allowing parents time to shop in peace.

Finish your day at Pizzeria Mozza, Mario Batali and Nancy Silverton's Hollywood hotspot with the best pies on the planet. Top the killer crust with the basics (margherita for beginners) or squash blossoms and speck for more sophisticated palates. This spot packs quickly, so book online if possible or suck it up and endure the line. If you have room for dessert, swing by Menchie's on the way back to the hotel for DIY frozen yogurt creations, complete with 40 colorful candy toppings.

DAY 2: A Malibu Mindset 

Start with breakfast at Cora's Coffee Shoppe, a sweet local hangout with Illy cappuccino, blueberry-banana-orange smoothies, and burrata caprese omelettes. Once you're appropriately fortified, head north up the Pacific Coast Highway for a day in picturesque Malibu. Make reservations at the kid-friendly Getty Center and Villa and roam the endless gardens that overlook the Pacific Ocean. All ages will be mesmerized by the museum's Greek and Roman treasures and collections of armor, coins, and beautiful photography by Atget and Walker Evans, among others.

After so much fresh air and light, you'll want to pack it in early. The best, old-school supper in town is at Ivy by the Shore (1535 Ocean Avenue; 310-393-3113) in Santa Monica. Ask for patio seating and feast on American classics with a SoCal flair: more chopped vegetable salads, pizzas, and decadent sundaes. Added bonus: The kitschy Hawaiian theme provides built-in entertainment for kids while parents people-watch. Stroll over to the twinkling Santa Monica Pier, which comes alive at sunset, before heading back to your hotel oasis.

DAY 3: Go Glam

When in LA, give in to its twin cultural pillars: celebrity and sunshine. A perfect third and final day includes breakfast to go from Huckleberry Cafe and Bakery. Who knew that star sightings pair so perfectly with prosciutto-stuffed croissants and Niman Ranch bacon-maple biscuits? (Huckleberry's new offshoot, Milo + Olive, serves delicious wood-fired pizzas, locally sourced everything, and great wines by the glass.) Head up Wilshire Boulevard to the eclectic Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), so kids can explore the Boone Children's Gallery before hitting the Page Museum and its oozing, prehistoric La Brea Tar Pits.

That's enough looking and learning. Time to repair to the Beverly Hills Hotel for a little lunch and Polo Lounge-ing. The pink landmark has verdant grounds, secluded spots for hide and seek, and one seriously glamorous pool scene. Your biggest decision here will be where to eat, and you'll want to let the kids tiumph with their choice: The Fountain Coffee Room, a 1950s gem of an old-fashioned soda fountain with bar stools, great burgers, malts, and floats. The only things missing are Bogey and Bacall and Lucy and Desi.

If you have energy to burn, make your last stop Griffith Park, a massive play space that is home to the Los Angeles Zoo, the Griffith Observatory, pony rides, a miniature train system, the Greek Theatre, and much more. Rent bikes to reach the merry-go-round built in 1926 near the Los Feliz entrance, where all 68 horses are jumpers wearing bejeweled bridles. How can you not love LA?

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fathom's Los Angeles Guide: For hotels, restaurants, shops, sites, itineraries, and more.

MAP IT

See all the locations in this story. (Google Maps)

Photos: Courtesy of Poppy Store; Christina Ohly.

Zen Out in Paso Robles, California

Low-key and lovely, the Central Coast region of California is being hailed as the new Napa for its undulating hills and vineyards, proximity to the ocean, and stunning scenery. From food and wine galore and landmarks like Hearst Castle to the spectacular rocky beach at Morro Bay, this is a relatively undiscovered gem of a destination — though probably not for much longer.

Paso Robles ("Pass of the Oaks" in Spanish), in San Luis Obispo County, is located midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, which makes it a great side trip from either, as well as a destination in its own right. The prices are lower and the vibe is more laid-back than Napa and Sonoma. The area feels authentic, a total mix — farm workers and fancy types, gay and straight — which make everything feel inclusive and interesting. Unwind while you sip varietals, lounge by the pool, and hang with genuine cowboys. By all means, bring the kids.

WHAT TO DO

Morning Fuel

The name doesn't scream "breakfast," but locals line up out the door at Hoover's Beef Palace (401 N. Main St., Templeton; +1-805-434-2114) for homemade sausage patties with eggs and enormous biscuits with gravy. This place is so legit that a) they don't have a website, but b) they do have their own slaughterhouse out back. If Hoover's is good enough for area ranchers and farm hands, it's good enough for you. Bonus: You'll banish that teensy weensy hangover you might have sustained from a wine tasting or two (or four) the day before.

Play

If you're in Paso Robles on the weekend, stop at Templeton Farmer's Market for the crazy bounty: artichokes the size of bowling balls, fresh berries, and baked goods. Kids will love the on-site playground and pony rides. For further running around, Barney Schwartz Park has a one-million-gallon lake, pavilions for picnics, and endless playing fields. See how olive oil is made at Pasolivo farm and mill. Their oils make for great souvenirs. 

Eat

McPhee's Grill in downtown Templeton serves a delicious bistro lunch with no-fuss attitude. Ancho duck and cheese quesadilla and pulled pork sandwich with shoestring fries are unparalleled. Follow up with a trip to Powell's Sweet Shoppe for dessert. If you're with kids, show them exactly how ancient you are when you buy candy by the decade. Everyone should know Wax Lips, Fruit Stripe gum, and Gobstoppers.

For a casual picnic, stock up on made-to-order sandwiches at Farmstand 46. Of special note, the Calamity Jane: roasted pork, cilantro, pickled daikon and carrots, and rooster aioli on a crusty baguette.

For dinner, go to the lovely Artisan Restaurant, where gouda and porter fondue with andouille, broccolini, and garlic bread is a little slice of heaven. Thomas Hill Organics serves lunch and dinner, with much on the plate coming from their family-run organic farm.  

At 15 Degrees C Wine Shop and Bar, you can taste and buy small-production Central Coast wines. Il Cortile Ristorante serves terrific Italian at lunch and dinner.  

Drink. A Lot.

When in Rome...Great soil conditions, proximity to the ocean, and mixed microclimates: That's the secret behind the hot new wine region's great products. Winemakers around here like to think outside the box, and they're producing interesting and great wines, especially in Rhône varietals. There are more than 200 Paso producers, and many of the best are small, family-owned wineries. Pace yourself. There's a lot to taste. 

- Venteux Vineyards (pictured above): Don't miss their incredible Farmhouse Cuvee. Here's a head start on your tasting notes: "I sense hints of lavender, black cherry, fig preserves, and sage."

- Halter Ranch Vineyard: Make for the hills for Côtes de Paso and a fine cabernet sauvignon. The spectacular 900-acre ranch historically produced its wines in an old airplane hangar but recently moved operations to a swanky new gravity-flow winery.

- AmByth Estate: The only certified biodynamic winery in the region.

- Saxum Vineyards: You can't visit the vineyard, but you can buy their noteworthy Syrah, as well as grenache and mourvèdre blends.

- And a few more good ones: Bella Luna Estate Winery, Booker Vineyard, Villa Creek Cellars (they have a restaurant in Paso Robles)

As for the well-known wineries, the ones to visit are: 

- Turley Wine Cellars: Their big, bold zinfandel has a serious cult following, so be prepared to pay up: Bottles often trade at two to three times suggested retail prices. At Turley, you can sample many old-vine zinfandels from all over California, as well as from three local vineyards. The estate and the beautiful tasting room are on the old Pesenti Vineyard, which has zinfandel vines that are more than 85 years old.

- Justin Vineyards and Winery: Located down the road from Halter Ranch. Come on Saturdays and Sundays to feast al fresco at Deborah's Room, before hitting yet another tasting room for a sip of their "Left Bank, Bordeaux-style" blend, Isosceles.

- Tablas Creek Vineyard: The terroir in Las Tablas is similar to that of Châteauneuf du Pape. The estate's signature wines are Esprit de Beaucastel and Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc. 

If you don't want to drive, call Lush Limo for a full-service tour. (This is a great idea for non-tacky bachelor/bachelorette weekends, though, please, avoid the white stretch at all costs.)

Be Merry

Paso Robles loves itself a party.

- Anytime: Happy Acres Family Farm is a goat farm with more than 200 goats, alpacas, and miniature horses, where kids can milk the animals and make cheese. 

- March, May, October: The third weekends of the month are wine festivals. See calendar.

- July: The Fourth of July parade features floats and flags galore. Mid-State Fair combines musical acts, horse shows, and olive oil competition. "The Great American Road Trip" is the theme for 2012. 

- October: Pioneer Day is a festival of kindness and community spirit (how refreshing!). Harvest Wine Weekend celebrates a good old-fashioned grape crushing.

- December: Christmas Light Parade: For pure holiday kitsch.

Go Coastal

Make time for a scenic drive through the vineyards and over the mountains to the majestic San Luis Obispo Coast, where enormous elephant seals stage epic battles and their young pups bob in the surf. Just down Highway 1 is Mediterranean-inspired Hearst Castle, with its dazzling 165 rooms, endless gardens, and shimmering pools. Finish up any day in nearby seaside town Cayucos with a meal in the back garden at Hoppe's Garden Bistro, followed by brown-butter sea salt cookies at Brown Butter Cookie Company.

WHERE TO STAY

- Hotels: Hotel Cheval is a lovely 16-room boutique hotel with a European vibe and a welcoming pet program. Centrally located Paso Robles Inn has hot springs, a low-key spa, and a heated pool.

- B&Bs: Small, family-run inns are the name of the game here. One of the best for local color is the two-room guest house at Venteux Vineyards. If that's full, ask about their Red Barn next door. Both offer a farm-stay feel, and kids will love the pool, sport court, and tractor rides. Orchard Hill Farm is an elegant — and much beloved — English-style manor house. Cass House Inn and Restaurant in Cayucos is convenient to Hearst Castle and the cute seals in San Luis State Park.

- Homes: Rent a house through Paso Robles Vacation Rentals.

HOW TO GET THERE

Fly: San Luis Obispo Airport (SLO), located 24 miles from Paso Robles, is a complete delight in today's travel terms. It's small, manageable, and has several rental car agency options, as well as taxis. Fly United Airlines from Los Angeles and San Francisco or US Airways from Phoenix.

Drive: San Francisco is about three hours away; Los Angeles about three and a half. Depending, as ever, on traffic. 

WEATHER

Come prepared for California's highest swing between daytime highs and nighttime chills.
- Average high/low temperatures in Farenheit: 87/50 in summer, 60/34 in winter.
- April-October: highs from mid-70s to mid-90s.
- March and November: highs in mid-70s.
- December-February: highs in low 60s.

MAP IT

See the locations on this trip. (Google Maps)

BEST OF THE WEB

- The Complete Guide to America's Hottest New Wine Country (Details, April 2011)
- Paso Robles Celebrates Harvest Weekend (Travel + Leisure, October 2011) 
- Planning Your Trip to Paso Robles (Los Angles Times, January 2010) 
- Robert Parker on the Promise of Paso Robles (Food & Wine, October 2007)

LOCAL COLOR

- City of Paso Robles: official website
- Paso Robles Official Visitor Site 
- Paso Robles Wine: winery information, maps, and events calendars from Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance
- Paso Robles Winery Map 
- Hoot 'n' Annie: wine blog
- The Tribune/SanLuisObispo.com: news and information

Everything You Need to Know to Have a Perfect Beach Vacation in Jose Ignacio, Uruguay

While Jose Ignacio is hardly a travel secret anymore, it's still low-key enough to feel like an insider's destination. Contributing editor Christina Ohly reveals everything Fathom readers could ever need to know about how to have a perfect beach trip to Uruguay.

JOSE IGNACIO, Uruguay – Old Montauk meets Malibu in Jose Ignacio and the coastal towns surrounding Punta del Este in Southeastern Uruguay. Here you'll find everything from surf shacks to gauchos in traditional garb, not to mention delicious communal asados (barbecues) set on wide Atlantic beaches. Punta del Este serves as an entry point to a series of lovely fishing villages and quieter inland destinations such as Garzón, the Deco throwback set amongst verdant, rolling hills that is home to famed Argentine chef Francis Mallman's hotel and restaurant, Garzon.

The iconic lighthouse.

THE SCENE

For beach chic with an artisanal vibe, this area is impossible to beat. Jose Ignacio is hardly a travel secret anymore, but the destination is only going to get more and more popular. So magical is the entire scene that you should just book your trip now.

And although this gets tossed around like a bad travel brochure cliche, there truly is something for everyone in this part of the world. For the avid, athletic types, there's horseback riding, biking, and invigorating swims. For the chaise lounger, there's poolside capriroskas (a cocktail borrowed from neighboring Brazil), endless massages, and long lunches at La Huella (as seen in Michelle Lehman's Just Back from Jose Ignacio, and I agree wholeheartedly with her ringing endorsement of this special spot by the sea).

Kids of all ages are enchanted, too, by the rugged mix of cowboy culture (horseback riding is accessible to all), polo ponies (in the high season which lasts the few, short weeks between Christmas and mid-January), and swims in the 20-meter Absolute Nero stone pools that have twinkling under water "constellations" (an added bonus at all Vik hotels.)

Lunch at Fish Market. Photo by Christina Ohly.

LAY OF THE LAND

After landing in either Montevideo or Punta del Este, head straight for the laid-back village of Jose Ignacio. You'll pass the picturesque 1877 lighthouse and the stunningly simple mid-century modern beach homes owned by the likes of Shakira and Argentine hotelier Alan Faena.

Drive along the coastline (preferably in an open-top Jeep) through the villages of La Barra, El Chorro, Punta Pedras, and Manantiales. Plan on spending a few hours in Manantiales to visit Atchugarry Foundation, the workshop of master sculptor/local hero Pablo Atchugarry and also to stock up on beach gear at the many great surf stores in the area and house décor with playful prints at Roberta Roller Rabbit. Try to come hungry, so you can have delicately fried cod sandwiches and fresh gazpacho on the whitewashed patio at stylish Fish Market (Ruta 10, km 163.5; +598-42-774-431).

Word to the wise: Before you set off on any expedition, you should know that there aren't many petrol stations or cash machines in this part of the world. You'll want to stock up on gas and pesos at the Ancap at the roundabout in Jose Ignacio before heading too far off the beaten path.

Ride on. 

IF YOU ONLY DO ONE THING

Go Horseback Riding
I hadn't been on a horse in 20+ years and had no interest in saddling up again. Yet the charming gauchos (who smile sweetly and speak no English) and the spectacular scenery made this a memorable activity for our entire family — my husband, myself, and my tween son and daughter.

An excursion is easy to arrange because riding is included at many hotels — Estancia Vik, Casa Suaya, and Garzon among them. Horses are typically kept on property and thus don't have to be booked days in advance. The docile breed of Uruguayan horses seem comfortable with riders of all (read: zero) ability, which made for relaxing trail rides through diverse, meadow-filled terrain.

The impressive architecture at Playa Vik. Photos by Christina Ohly.

WHERE TO STAY

You'll notice a lot of Vik hotels in this list. For good reason: Team Vik excels at creating innovative, cool, stunning places you'll never want to leave.

Estancia Vik
Camino Eugenio Sainz Martínez; +598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
Set on 4,000 stunning acres of pasture and gently rolling hills, this is a house stay unlike any other. Each of the 12 suites were designed by a contemporary Uruguayan artist, giving the estancia the feel a modern museum housed in a stunning, authentic villa. No detail is overlooked, and the kind staff — including the resident gauchos — look after restaurant bookings, trail rides, and spa treatments. An eco-friendly emphasis and a killer Saturday night asado are but a few of the many lovely bonuses.

Playa Vik
Calle Los Cisnes and Calle Los Horneros; +598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
The Vik group's original beach property has an extremely modernist feel, all glass facades, fire pits, and artwork, most notably a James Turrell light installation and a Zaha Hadid-designed table in the main house. Especially impressive is the 75-meter cantilevered swimming pool that seems to jut out over the sea, to say nothing for the grass-topped villas designed by starchitect Carlos Ott. In other words, the entire place is nothing if not striking and unique.

Bahia Vik
+598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
Set to open in winter 2014 in time for high season, the hotel features contemporary Uruguayan art, separate swimming pools for kids and adults, and environmentally friendly casitas that are understated yet luxurious at the same time. Located directly on the beach, Bahia guests can horseback ride at the nearby Estancia property or stroll down the dunes for a perfectly grilled hamburger or fresh sushi at the Vik's La Susana restaurant.

Posada del Faro
Luis E. Schickendantz and Del Timonel; +598-44-862-110
A relatively affordable option with rooms facing a small pool and Jose Ignacio bay in the distance.

Vintage rules. Photos courtesy of Casa Zinc.

Casa Zinc
Calle 9 and Carlos Gardel, La Barra; +598-99-620-066 / +598-42-773-003
A small hotel in the village of La Barra that will appeal to lovers of vintage furniture and intimate environments. Owner Aaron Hojman has amassed a charming collection of local finds mixed with flea market treasures from the UK and beyond.

Casa Suaya
Ruta 10, km 185.5; +54-11-4771-1667 / +598-44-862-750
A lovely and simple boutique bolthole with a charming boho feel. Accommodations include two bedroom suites (bonus for families), Butia restaurant, a large pool, and horseback riding.

Garzon
Costa Jose Ignacio and La Capilla, Garzón; +598-44-102-811
An incredibly special inn (one of Fathom's World's Most Romantic Hotels) run by chef extraordinaire Francis Mallman that draws an international foodie crowd for meals and overnight stays in the give guest rooms centered on an open courtyard and pool. Diners feast outside or in the intimate dining room on beautiful meat, fish, and vegetables prepared on a massive iron grill using a traditional infernillo technique. (Mallman is world-renown for his grilling style.)

Lunch is served at La Susana. Photos courtesy of La Susana.

WHERE TO EAT

The question is where not to eat, as the food – all kinds of cuisines and at all price points – is just so good.

La Caracola
Address emailed after booking; +598-94-223-015
A beach club on a small island from the folks behind local favorite La Huella. You have to take a private boat to get here, and your just rewards are wonderful snacks, light seafood meals, and cleric, a white wine sangria. The fee is $180 per day, and you need to book well in advance.

Marismo
Ruta 10, km 185; +598-42-486-2273
A special, candle-lit spot that can be difficult to find in the dark but is worth the journey for braised lamb and the grilled catch of the day. The atmosphere is magical. Book well in advance.

La Susana
Ruta 10, km 182.5; +598-44-862-823 / +598-95-192-555
A casual beach club and restaurant that serves everything from grilled snapper and pizzas to Norwegian vodka produced by the Vik family. A festive bamboo bar in the sand draws all kinds. Children frolick freely, larger groups spread out, and the party lasts well into the night.

La Olada
Ruta 10, km 181.5; +598-44-862-745 / +598-99-337-908
Soft candlelight sets the stage for a delicious meal of fresh salads, pastas, and grilled meats at this quiet spot inland. Ubiquitous wood-fired pizzas make for delicious appetizers, and the whole place feel very homey in the best possible way. (Those are the owner's dog and cat meandering about.)

Everyone is happy at La Huella.

La Huella
Calle de Los Cisnes; +598-44-862-279
Widely regarded as a gastronomic mecca, the beachside spot deserves its reputation and should be everyone's first stop. The setting is magical — soft music, neutral colored wood decks, and candlelight set the scene by night — as are the crispy octopus and line-caught sea bass. Creative sushi dishes, wood-fired pizzas, and housemade dulce de leche ice cream were other consistent winners And I should know, because I literally ate seven meals in a row here.

Almacen el Palmar
Plaza de Jose Ignacio; +598-44-862-102
One of my favorite meals in Uruguay. From delicious poppy seed rolls with tapenade to perfectly grilled fish and Provençal pastas by gregarious chef Jean Paul Bondoux, who wanders freely around the patio and dining room. Almacen is an all-day affair, with freshly baked croissants and breads available in the morning and wonderful cheeses in the adjacent deli throughout the day. Dinner, served indoors on the lovely, canopied outdoor patio, is a must.

Namm
Ruta 10, km 185; +598-486-2526
I am ever the fan of Japanese food, and this place serves the freshest sushi (and grilled meats) I've had anywhere. The wooden bungalow setting adds to the overall experience.

Beach chic. Photo courtesy of El Canuto.

WHERE TO SHOP

Santas Negras
Camino Eugenio Saiz Martinez and Los Lobos; +598-44-862-262
The mid-century modern, two-story boutique just outside town has been lovingly curated by Paula Martini (wife of La Huella owner Martin Pittaluga) and Patricia Torres, who filled it with vintage furniture, decorative objects, featherweight cashmere sweaters, and playful jewelry that works well at the casual, evening barbecue parties they host out back. Don't miss the atmospheric café patio for delicious cappuccinos, capirinhinas, and panini.

Mutate
Café de la Place (in front of Plaza Jose Ignacio); +598-44-862-703
Stocks great vintage and designer clothing for men and women.

El Canuto
Calle de Los Cisnes; +598-44-862-028
The place for caftans, lingerie, and other beach basics.

Alium
Costa Jose Ignacio, Garzón; +598-99-128-672
A great design-led shop further inland in Garzón.

Talabarteria Benitez
Calle Maldonado and Calle 25 de Agosto, San Carlos; no phone.
The old-school gaucho supply shop in the village of San Carlos is the place to source a wide assortment of leather chaps and silver adornments.

The Jose Ignacio Supermarket
I love to go to the grocery store to take in the local color, and this one sells everything: beach basics (chips and salty snacks), refined deli fare, meats, cheeses, fruits, and vegetables.

WHAT YOU'LL KNOW ON THE LAST DAY THAT YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN ON THE FIRST

Bring Cash — and Lots of It
This is not neighboring Argentina where everything is cheap. It's a relatively pricey area with very few cash machines. US dollars are generally welcome.

Pack Light — Really Light
Think haute-hippie hideaway, where high season temperatures can soar past 100 degrees and there is no need for anything fancy. I overpacked by a wide margin and could have made do with a bathing suit, sarong, T-shirt, shorts, and sneakers (mandatory for horseback riding).

Take Great Care When Booking Restaurants
You don't want to miss a meal in Uruguay. The restaurants and cafes are fantastic — at all price points. Area specialties include delicious grilled fish, sushi and ceviches, steak (of course), and housemade helado (ice cream). Places book well in advance — especially hotspots like La Huella, Garzon, and Marismo. Not that you're at risk of going hungry, considering how many under-the-radar gems you'll find everywhere. Among my favorites were La Olada, Parador al Almacen, Namm, and La Susana — all casual and festive, serving traditional, often wood-fired fare. This is the kind of food and drink that makes everyone happy, so book in advance if you can.

HOW TO GET THERE

It's very easy from the United States, with direct flights to Buenos Aires International Airport (EZE) on both American Airlines and Aerolineas Argentinas. You'll have to transfer to BA's smaller airport, Jorge Newbery (AEP),which can be a pain, especially if there's traffic, to catch a flight to Punta Del Este (PDE) on Aerolineas Argentinas, Pluna, or Buquebus. The drive to Jose Ignacio from Punta Del Este is approximately 45 minutes.

Another option is flying into Carrasco International Airport (MVD) in Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, via Miami on American Airlines. The drive to Jose Ignacio is approximately 90 minutes, and rental cars must be booked well in advance.

VISAS

While there are no visa requirements for either Argentina or Uruguay, you will need to pre-pay a reciprocity fee if you travel through Argentina.

WHEN TO GO

I can't imagine there is a wrong time to go to Uruguay, but spring and fall — shoulder seasons leading into winter and summer — are completely delightful. With bright blue skies, temperatures averaging in the mid-70s, and an absence of crowds, March and April are the perfect times to explore — and to secure bookings at all of the area's stellar restaurants.
The winter holidays bring throngs from Argentina and Brazil, but nothing feels over-run, as there are no glitzy mega hotels catering to the St. Tropez club set. That said, these people like to party — very late into the night — so it's all about invitations to house parties and elaborate asados feasts of local beef (the best I've ever tasted — period), assorted vegetables, and locally caught corvina negra (white drum fish).

Maine at Its Beachy, Old-School, Down-Home Best

Sometimes you need an escape from the mundane — and sometimes that escape can bring you back to another decade. The Black Point Inn is the perfect New England getaway when you're feeling nostalgic for the 1930s. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly shows us why this little-known Maine town is the perfect chill spot for any age.

PROUT'S NECK, Maine – I was in Prout's Neck, a scenic part of coastal Maine, for a brief summer getaway from NYC, and it might just be my new New England favorite spot. First and foremost is ease of use: Prout's Neck is exactly eleven miles — a twenty-minute drive — from the manageable Portland JetPort (PWM) which is served by Delta and JetBlue, among other airlines. While Maine is, by definition, "wicked far" from virtually anywhere, this bucolic area is easily accessible and feels an entire, old-school world away.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Black Point Inn is a throwback to another era — one when dark and stormy cocktails were savored on sweeping porches overlooking a rugged Atlantic coastline. Time has stopped here — in the best possible way — and the historical 25-room inn still feels like someone's grand guesthouse — albeit one straight of out an Edith Wharton or Henry James novel.

The shingled beachside escape was built in the 1870s and continues to be a central meeting point for locals and visitors alike. It is now owned by a consortium of the town's residents and is overseen by the Migis Hotel Group, a local Maine management company, and balances a classic, intimate atmosphere with a few state-of-the-art updates (WiFi, flat-screen TVs, and an unexpectedly well-equipped gym). The rooms and suites are spacious, and many have breathtaking views of the beaches on three sides of the property, as well as the lushly landscaped gardens. The shingle-style hotel has been lovingly restored, right down to the sun porch, where guests gather for afternoon tea (with freshly baked cookies), traditional board games, and The New York Times. This is the quintessential Down East inn, and one where kind and attentive service make for a truly delightful stay.

Claim to Fame

The Inn has several claims to fame, but chief among them are the spectacular sunsets overlooking Sand Dollar Beach. From a perch at one of the outside tables at the Chart Room, you can sip local Shipyard Summer Ale or a glass of rosè and feast on twin lobsters and plates of Damiriscotta oysters and watch the brilliant orange and red hues yield to a starry night sky.

Another special touch that Black Point Inn affords is access — to everything. Kind concierges will arrange a round of golf at the nearby Prout's Neck Country Club or a morning of tennis — on clay, natch. Guests at the Inn have unique access to Winslow Homer's studio just up the road. A stay here makes one feel like a well-connected insider.

The Food

Breakfast on the porch overlooking the sea is a total highlight, and the helpful servers are happy to provide everything: real oatmeal with brown sugar, blueberry pancakes, healthy egg white omelets. Delicious, red bliss potato hash browns and thick-cut bacon make this feel like a total holiday. The warm sun at your back only adds to the overall idyllic effect.

Dinner in The Chart Room is casual, with offerings like wedge salads, shrimp cocktail, and perfect burgers, or slightly more formal in The Point Restaurant. I love a restaurant with traditional white tablecloths, fresh seafood chowder, and just-picked corn and tomatoes that serves supper between six and eight p.m. nightly. You're so relaxed, that's bedtime anyway.

Room with a View

There are 25 rooms in various categories located in the historic shingle-style building, many with ocean or bay views, terraces, and sweet wicker furniture. Inter-connecting rooms work well for families, while Spinnaker Suites and Commodore's Chambers offer enormous, well-appointed bathrooms and separate sitting areas. The furnishing are Ye Olde New England — a mix of antiques and replicas — that are comfortable and in keeping with the overall aesthetic. This is not a minimalist's dream scenario, but it makes for a cosseting stay. Room 215 was particularly lovely and featured an enormous living room, a bedroom with two queen beds, and unparalleled views of July 4th fireworks in the distance.

This Place Is Perfect For

A huge dose of New England charm. It's also perfect for anyone who can't tolerate long car rides, but wants to feel transported to another, more quaint place and time. For anyone who likes to play Scrabble, read by a roaring fire, and eat oyster crackers, the Black Point Inn is pretty much your Nirvana.

But Not So Perfect For

Modernists, minimalists, or anyone that doesn't appreciate a bit of old-school, chintzy cool. Black Point Inn could be construed as fusty, but I prefer to think of it as old-world glamorous.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Prout's Neck is comprised primarily of the beautiful weekend homes of Boston, Philadelphia, and New York contingents, so it feels quiet and insular, but in a good way. Children ride their bikes to the Yacht Club for Opti sailing lessons, and everyone knows each other at the sweet post office and the general store. Be sure to take one of the Inn's complimentary bikes for a cruise around the larger area of Scarborough and the lilac- and hydrangea-lined lanes.

What to Do Nearby

Don't miss the one-and-a-half-mile Cliff Walk that starts just steps away from the inn and takes you along the dramatic, craggy rocks that were painted by area resident, Winslow Homer. The walk culminates at the simple studio where he lived and painted most of his life and from which you can see the changing colors of the blue-green sea.

Nearby Portland is a happening town, and the Old Port District is worth a detour for the cute shops and galleries that line the cobblestone streets. The world-class Portland Museum of Art houses many of Homer's great works, and the historic Wadsworth-Longfellow House makes for a great afternoon as well.

Foodies will be in heaven at the Eventide Oyster Co., where exquisite lobster rolls with brown butter vinaigrette and a clam bake-for-one (steamers, mussels, lobster tail, salt pork, and hard-boiled egg served within seaweed) are pure bliss.

Good to Know

Make time for both the saltwater pool (restorative) and sea kayaking. In-room massages are another plus. The upscale sandwiches at the General Store just down Black Point Road make for a refined picnic.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get Here

Fly: Prout's Neck is a twenty-minute drive from the Portland International JetPort (PWM), which is served by Delta and JetBlue, among others.

Find It

Black Point Inn
510 Black Point Road
Prout's Neck, Scarborough, Maine 04074
+1-207-883-2500
info@blackpointinn.com

Three-Day Weekends from Boston

Contributing editor Christina Ohly sends us packing for two peaceful weekend spots just a short drive from Boston. When can we leave?

BOSTON – Maybe, just maybe, you can put away the snow shovel. It's springtime in Boston, and everything's coming up roses. Take off on a Friday in the near future to explore and enjoy a quainter, quieter side of New England.

WOODSTOCK, VERMONT

If you're in the mood for: green mountains, picture-postcard covered bridges, and white clapboard church steeples.

Route to take: I-89 North for two-and-a-half hours.

Your agenda: Woodstock Inn — recently revamped to include LED-everything — has a serene spa and delicious farm-to-table cuisine in its casual Red Rooster restaurant. Head across the quaint village green outside your front door and make stops at the old-school Gillingham's general store and Yankee Bookshop before a lovely dinner-a-deux at The Prince and The Pauper, a town institution.

Avoid the Sunday blues: Do not skip town without a stop for black raspberry ice cream cones at the White Cottage Snack Bar. Open only in summer, this low-key spot is worth a serious, deep-fried detour.

WATCH HILL AND WEEKAPAUG, RHODE ISLAND

If you're in the mood for: a gorgeous beach escape with excellent cuisine to match.

Route to take: I-95 South for two hours.

Your agenda: Nest at the recently revamped Weekapaug Inn where sail boats, fishing gear, and a discreet, black-bottomed pool are all at your disposal. A meal of locally caught lobster, Matunuck oysters, and native beets is as memorable as the sunsets overlooking bucolic Quonochontaug Pond. Killer Swedish massages at Relais & Chateaux sister property The Ocean House are a Zen bonus.

Avoid the Sunday blues: One the way back to civilization, stock up on freshly baked chocolate chunk and molasses cookies at gourmet emporium The Cooked Goose.

Read more on Fathom: Summer with the Kids in Watch Hill.