Phillip Lim talks personal taste: Part One

Phillip Lim’s womenswear combines street cool and tailored femininity, while his CFDA award-winning menswear exudes contemporary minimalism

My personal style signifier is dressing in navy blue – whether that’s jeans, a jumpsuit or a tailored jacket – and I always have a scarf to hand. I like them for all seasons, in every fabric – wool, cashmere, silk and lighter linens; I collect them wherever I travel. I am a classicist at heart but always like to have an edge.

Lim’s brass Tibetan prayer bowl from a trip to the Himalayas | Image: Weston Wells

The last thing I bought and loved was a Santa Clara Pueblo vase from New Mexico. The beautiful redware pottery reminds me of the light on buildings in towns I visited there, like Santa Fe and Las Cruces.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a Conoid bench [pictured] by American woodworker George Nakashima. I’m inspired by things that incorporate nature and show the hand of the artisan; this sculptural piece is a hefty plank of wood, the grain clearly visible, with a simple back and legs. It would look great in the living room of my loft. About $15,000; www.nakashimawoodworker.com.

Sound & Color by Alabama Shakes

The last music I downloaded was the Alabama Shakes album Sound & Color. It combines elements of jazz, blues and Southern rock into a totally modern sound. I equate them with someone like Amy Winehouse – a disrupter, a fresh voice on the contemporary music scene.

American black walnut Conoid bench by George Nakashima, about $15,000 | Image: George Nakashima Woodworker

A recent “find” is a store called Cowboys and Indians in Albuquerque, New Mexico. It is filled with antique treasures, from Navajo rugs to Cherokee baskets and jewellery. I bought some beautiful 1930s Mexican silver and turquoise bracelets. 4000 Central Ave SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 (+1505-255 4054; www.cowboysandindiansantiques.com).

Bronze A Muse, 1917, by Constantin Brâncusi | Image: © Bridgeman Images © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2016

The sight that inspires me is the Atlantic Ocean, as seen from the East End of Long Island. I call this stretch the “green velvet rage” because the combination of sand and rolling waves creates a particular colour. It clears my mind and fills me with gratitude.

Hermès Poivre Samarcande, £167 for 100ml EDT

The last meal that truly impressed me was a dinner en plein air at North Brooklyn Farms, a community green space in Williamsburg. The early fall night was magical and we ate with a view of the Manhattan skyline. The food was prepared by Williamsburg farm-to-table restaurant Marlow & Sons, and the burrata, poached bass with shaved fennel and peach-basil macaroons were very special. Everyone – even guests who have been all over the world and are hard to impress – was seduced by the meal’s simplicity. 320 Kent Ave, New York, NY 11249 (www.northbrooklynfarms.com).

The artists whose work I would collect if I could are Constantin Brâncus¸i – his sculptures often inform my designs – and Francis Bacon, whose work is classical yet savage, beautiful yet grotesque.

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a brass Tibetan prayer bowl from when we shot our fall 2015 campaign in the Himalayas. It is traditionally used in monasteries to cleanse the atmosphere and makes a beautiful sound. It sits in my living room and reminds me of a trip that perfectly combined work and play.

The grooming staples I’m never without include Poivre Samarcande fragrance by Hermès, which I wear all the time; it is subtle yet distinctive, so I don’t smell like everyone else. I like the Eye and Lip Smoother from Australian skincare line Sodashi because it’s free from parabens and anything artificial, and Como Shambhala’s Invigorate Shampoo, which is very refreshing. Como Shambhala Invigorate Shampoo, £14 for 300ml; www.comoshambhala.com. Hermès Poivre Samarcande, £167 for 100ml EDT; www.hermes.com. Sodashi Eye and Lip Smoother, £90 for 30ml; www.sodashi.co.uk.

An indulgence I would never forgo is my triple black Porsche 911 Turbo. This is my fourth – I trade them in every three years – and I love to drive it out east at the weekend. It’s called Beyoncé.

My favourite websites are OliverGustav.com for this Danish designer’s made-to-order furniture; HavenShop.ca, a Canadian men’s streetwear site; TheEndofHistoryShop.blogspot.com for ceramics and gift ideas; and NYTimes.com for daily news.

Phillip Lim talks personal taste: Part Two

The fashion designer rounds up his list of likes with spicy sauces, a thirst for Buddhist knowledge and rebooting in his steam shower

My style icons are people who have confidence in their looks combined with a slight eccentricity, such as designers Stefano Pilati and Phoebe Philo. Fashion blogger Leandra Medine – aka Man Repeller – carries herself with great style and confidence as well. These three look true to themselves; they’re not trying too hard.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Bhutan. This country is literally heaven on earth; it’s both geographically stunning and incredibly spiritual as it’s the last Buddhist kingdom. I stayed in a series of Aman Resorts and each one was individual and authentic. www.aman.com.

Image: Weston Wells

The last item I added to my wardrobe was a pair of suede hiking boots from my menswear line, for navigating the streets of New York in style throughout the seasons, and several handwoven scarves [second picture] embellished with tribal patterns that I picked up on a trip to Ethiopia.

In my fridge you’ll always find a variety of hot sauces – including Sriracha, Cholula and my mother’s very spicy, secret blend – which I use on vegetables and meat dishes; fresh fruit and veg; ginger for cooking; coconut water; and unpasteurised sake.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose SoHo in New York, where you can find everything in a tight radius. I love If for high-fashion labels you can no longer find easily elsewhere, and De Vera for rare objects and curiosities. Modernlink is great for Scandinavian furniture, while Double Knot is a wonderful shop full of vintage and one-of-a-kind carpets. The excellent local butcher, Japan Premium Beef, has the best cuts of meat. De Vera, 1 Crosby St (+1212-625 0838; www.deveraobjects.com). Double Knot, 13 White St (+212-966 9113; www.double-knot.com). If, 94 Grand St (+1212-334 4964; www.ifsohonewyork.com). Japan Premium Beef, 57 Great Jones St (+1212-260 2333). Modernlink, 35 Bond St (+1212-254 1300; www.modernlink.com).

The best gift I’ve given recently was a first birthday party for my godson. It was held at a children’s play centre called Kidville in Brooklyn and included a great group of people – both young and old. Turning one is a huge accomplishment and I was happy to celebrate with him. 808 Union St, Brooklyn, NY 11215 (+1718-569 2150; www.kidville.com/parkslope).

Image: Tadasu Yamamoto

And the best one I’ve received recently was a brass bangle from my guide on a trip to Ethiopia. He belonged to the Amhara and I admired his stack of bracelets that jangled to make music. He took one off and presented it to me. It was such a personal and meaningful gesture.

An object I would never part with is a black naga stone given to me by the queen mother of Bhutan, Gyalyum Sangay Choden Wangchuck. I was introduced to her on a recent visit through a mutual friend and we had a very special connection. She insists I must have been Bhutanese in a past life and gave me this very special holy stone from her garden. It now sits in my bedroom at my home in SoHo.

Image: Divine Light Photography

My favourite room in my house is my steam shower. It’s a spare, simple space and the place I go to relax and reboot.

If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Tokyo, where each neighbourhood has a distinctive feel; it’s a city of both chaos and convenience. From Aoyama to Daikanyama to Omotesando, I love the original street style and the diversity of architecture, the great food, vintage shopping and excellent hotels such as the Park Hyatt. And I’d like to spend more time exploring Naoshima’s “art island” with its incredible museums, including the Benesse House Museum [third picture] and Ando Museum, and high-tech installations. The Japanese treat everyone with respect and they all possess a certain elegance. Ando Museum, 736-2 Naoshima, Kagawa (+8187-892 3754;www.benesse-artsite.jp/en). Benesse House Museum, Gotanji, Naoshima, Kagawa (+8187-892 3223; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en).Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku (+813-5322 1234; www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com).

The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Mark Bustos of Three Squares Studio [fourth picture] for my regular haircut – he’s a great stylist and gives haircuts to the homeless every Sunday, which I think says a lot about him; and my physio Dr Nina Figueroa of Base Physical Therapy, who keeps me aligned. Base Physical Therapy, 47 West 14th St, New York, NY 10011 (+1917-533 4535; www.basept.net). Three Squares Studio, 444 West 17th St, New York, NY 10011 (+1917-847 3384; www.threesquaresstudio.com).

The books on my bedside table include Creativity, Inc. [fifth picture] by Pixar president Ed Catmull, and Start Where You Are by Pema Chödrön, which is all about developing compassion towards others. I also have The Diamond Cutter – a book that fuses Tibetan Buddhism with practical business strategy. I love self-help books and acquiring knowledge.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a farmer with plenty of land to harvest and lots of sunshine. In an ideal world, I’d be a seaweed farmer in Thailand so I could be near the ocean as well.

The Nordic Approach of Index

Kigge Hvid, CEO of Index, promotes sustainable solutions to global challenges.

You’re the head of “Index: Design to Improve Life.” How has it changed since its founding in 2002?
Index set out to be a big award for traditional design, but that wasn’t going to happen with me in the lead. We’ve grown organically and shifted the focus away from aesthetics and toward making life better for people all over the world. We began with the design award and have grown to include education programs for teachers, decision makers, and kids. We are now raising the world’s first venture capital fund to invest in Design to Improve Life. The initiatives were just formed in partnership with the Dansk OTC. Together we’ll identify designers and entrepreneurs who need access to capital and we’ll accelerate their great ideas.

After high school you worked as a visual artist before working in arts and culture. How did your background prepare you for the world of sustainable design?
I believe everything is possible and that you make your opportunities—formal education or not. I worked from a very young age—18 years—and it meant that I could do a  lot of things that my peers couldn’t. I learned by doing, but sometimes I miss that university degree.

What do you look for in an award recipient, besides a great idea?
In the beginning we were looking at form, material, and color, but now impact is the single-biggest factor: How many people will be helped by this product or design? The new venture capital arm is different in that we’ll focus on proof of concept, the management team, and scalability. These awards and investments will be two independent processes.

You spend a lot of time traveling and lecturing around the world, whether as part of the Global Agenda Council for World Economic Forum, where you were a founding member, or keynoting the Service Design Global Conference in Sweden. How important are these engagements to spreading the Index message?
We all spend at least three months talking to other people, whether it be by Skype, at conferences around the world, or at universities. We need to understand what is happening around us, and this is the most effective way to do that.

Where do you see the greatest area of need right now?
We really need law enforcement across the world in places like West Africa, much of South America, and Asia, where people can be raped, murdered, or assaulted and there is no recourse. The refugee situation is also critical now: People are fleeing a life where nothing is good, and it would be amazing to form a think tank to solve the root of this problem. I also think big pharma needs to be rethought now. Often the person who needs the drugs can’t get them due to cost. All of these problems are about inequality.

If you were to host a dinner party with any product designers, artists, scientists, or innovators, living or dead, who would they be?
I’d love to chat with Beryl Markham, the first female to pilot a plane over Africa. I’d also invite architects, entrepreneurs, and artists including Daan Roosegaarde—an Index Award recipient and current jury member—and the curator of design and architecture at MoMA, Paola Antonelli, who is also on the jury. I’d include Reif Larsen, the author of The Selected Works of T.S. Pivet, which is about the adventures of a 12-year-old mapmaker, as well as behavioral economist, Dan Ariely.

What is the best piece of business advice you ever received?
Do not sue! Early in my career we had a business conflict with a sponsor, and my attorney said, “Sit down and find a solution.” We did just that, and I have a great relationship with those people to this day.

How would you describe your management style?
In the beginning, I was quite controlling, but now I try to lead by example, and I also empower people to do things the way they feel is best. My approach is very Scandinavian: There is no discussion of wages, overtime, or holidays, and people take time off when it works for them.

Is there a part of the world or a specific design community that is producing particularly exciting, game-changing products that will improve people’s lives?
Design-savvy Nordic countries continue to lead, and places like Holland and the U.S. are also very interesting in terms of sustainable innovation. In Norway, we’ve seen service innovation at the main Oslo hospital where the diagnostics of breast cancer have been cut from 12 weeks to just four days. Boston, Silicon Valley, and Denver—particularly the University of Colorado’s College of Arts & Media—are doing fascinating work.

You work with CEOs, academics, and innovators. Who is really moving the ball forward right now?
There are companies such as Airbnb that are helping to create a sharing, sustainable economy. This is a great equalizer and very inclusive. I’m finding that the people educated at design schools have been driving the development of the sharing economy; Pinterest and Kickstarter are great examples of this.

You’ve bestowed awards for clean drinking straws, affordable laptops, vertical farming systems, and fetal heart rate monitors. What are the impactful designs and products that really stand out for you?
We now have an archive of 5,000 sustainable designs, and I see exciting new concepts every day, so it’s hard to choose standouts. That said, the development in electrical cars and sustainable transportation as seen in the Tesla Roadster, as well as advances in smart highways, and advances in maternal and children’s health—from apps to educational programs—are all incredible.

Awards are given by category: body, home, work, play, community, and people’s choice. Is there one area that’s most popular now?
Lately we’ve seen an explosion in the play category with games for learning on the rise.

Inside a Stylish Healdsburg Getaway

Photographs by John Merkl

“This house is all about patterns and color, unexpected materials and unique works of art—but not in overwhelming amounts,” says Jeff Schlarb of the Healdsburg home that he and wife Tray have lovingly renovated. Designed as a weekend getaway for the couple and their two young daughters, the 16-acre Sonoma County compound is where the family relaxes and entertains with competitive bocce games, barbecues with friends and even tented affairs in the sprawling backyard that overlooks the valley beyond. “This is a country house—an exaggerated cottage, really,” says Schlarb, “and we created it to be a forever place for our kids.”

The duo behind San Francisco design firm Green Couch, the Schlarbs were drawn to the 1982 house with its a retro pool (“It’s early ’80s, but with a ’70s hangover,” says Schlarb) and light-filled guesthouse. The couple embarked on the year-long renovation project with the goal of “replacing things in kind,” says Schlarb, so that new windows and horizontal cedar siding, though used to create a modern architectural aesthetic, were in keeping with the original house.

As with any home, the kitchen is the epicenter of family life. “It’s an easy space to be in,” notes Schlarb, “whether we’re cooking breakfast or drinking Champagne with friends.” The adjacent great room is another favorite sunny gathering spot and is filled with meaningful pieces. The photograph, for example, was taken by a friend just outside of Schlarb’s hometown of Kansas City, Missouri. “It’s of a wicked funnel tornado that she could see from her front door, and she took it on her phone!” says Schlarb, who also loved the pixelated look of the photo when it was blown up to its current size.

The family’s dining room is a study in whimsy and color. “We wanted a cozy, intimate space with wood beams,” says Schlarb. The two-tone, wallpapered space features a unique mix—a classic hunt pattern by Phillip Jeffries coexists with an urban toile motif by Timorous Beasties in muted shades of blue. Zele chairs in buttery soft leather surround an industrially-inspired dining table, while geometric artworks by Bay Area artist Aleksandra Zee and a rope sculpture bought at the West Coast Art Fair spark lively conversations.

Upstairs, the master suite is more in keeping with Tray’s love of light, airy colors, and wide-plank oak floors set the stage for the soothing oasis. The couple’s all-white bedroom has a dreamlike atmosphere highlighted by a bed with turned-wood posts from Noir; thick Mark Alexander window treatments in Tunis Snow and a whitewashed brick fireplace. A woven cotton carpet and blue Brentano throw pillows add subtle touches of color, while rattan chairs paired with a trio of garden stools creates a sitting area that evokes outdoor living.

This serene atmosphere extends to the master bathroom where linen drapes “create a soft, romantic environment,” says Schlarb, while a bold Elitis wallcovering and a stark, black stone floor give the room drama. The stand-alone bathtub is original to the house, and the PentalQuartz sink and bathroom fixtures were custom made to match.

Every furnishing, finish and fabric has been lovingly considered by the Schlarbs, and the result is a highly personal retreat for their busy family. “In San Francisco, we are in close proximity to our neighbors, but in Healdsburg, we have endless land and space to work with. We often center around the fireplace, or jam with friends,” notes Schlarb. “This home was built for memory creation.”

A version of this article appeared in the April/May 2016 issue of SFC&G (San Francisco Cottages & Gardens) with the headline: Modern Pastoral.

Madonna! London's High-Fashion Hotel Is, of Course, Italian

If you walked past this high-end hotel, you might mistake it for one of the surrounding haute boutiques. And you wouldn't be far off. Fathom contributor Christina Ohly checks into one of the poshest addresses in Knightsbridge, London.

LONDON – There's no place more special than London for celebrating a milestone birthday, a romantic anniversary, or a Power Ball payout. The historic city holds special charm for revelers: sublime scenery, culture galore, incredible food (who would have thought), and above all else, some of the most luxurious hotels on the planet. Among the most special and sumptuous is Bulgari Hotel London in Knightsbridge. Such a hotel experience isn't cheap, but here's what you get for your hard-earned pounds.

CHECKING IN

Overview

It makes sense that a hotel from the most luxurious jewelry brand in Italy would be just as stunning and opulent. Opened in 2012, the 85-room sleek spot in Knightsbridge is all polished cherry and mahogany and steel finishes, yet the atmosphere is incredibly warm and accessible. That's due to the staff, who are always attentive but never fawning and are clad in simple, streamlined outfits — plain cotton jackets, sensible outerwear, no white gloves or top hats in sight. Everything from your personalized butler to the crisp-filled minibar is incredibly high-touch and low-key at the same time.

The lobby. All photos courtesy of Bulgari Hotel London.

The spa pool.

What's New

The Bulgari Spa is a stand-alone destination, home to one of the most beautiful pools in London. There's also an expansive menu of treatments ranging from bespoke facials to full-body Thai massages to emotional healing with modern wizard Andrew Wallas, who practices spiritual psychology. New this month are Mauli treatments, like insanely relaxing Sacred Indian Head Massages incorporating hand-crafted Ayurveda products that can only be found on-site.

What's On Site

Besides the spa and a chic restaurant serving Mediterranean tapas, you'll find the most outrageous minibars and wine refrigerators. There are no wants for amenities — as the room is already stocked with international electrical sockets, Nespresso machines, personalized stationery, Bulgari beauty products, fruit baskets of never-before-seen varieties, and excellent WiFi.

The Food

Rivea, the hotel's main fine dining restaurant, is now overseen by Alain Ducasse, and serves everything from perfectly poached eggs at breakfast to small dinner plates for tasting and sharing. Among the standouts are cep mushroom and ricotta ravioli, citrus marinated line-caught sea bream, a Provençal vegetable caponata, house-made lemon shortbread, and a tangy limoncello sorbet.

Room service is excellent, too, should you want to have a leisurely meal across from your massive flat-screen TV in the comfort of one of your many fluffy bathrobes.

Rivea restaurant.

A deluxe room.

The Rooms

There are 85 rooms, seven of which are indulgent, massive suites. Standard rooms have exquisite linens and fine wood finishes. Suites are something else entirely — expansive living rooms, kitchens with separate refrigerators for wine and food, a dining room that seats ten, and a closet bigger than most New York City apartments.

I stayed in Room 553, a decadent suite with floor-to-ceiling windows and three TVs, but a simple, 43-square-meter Deluxe Room would have worked just as well. I barely looked out the window because I was so focused on my exquisite surroundings — the king-size bed and sprawling living area. Sixth-floor suites have expansive terraces and gas fireplaces.

This Hotel Is Perfect For

Romantics, tourists who want to explore the shops and restaurants of Knightsbridge, and anyone who likes to be near Hyde Park.

And Not So Perfect For

Anyone on a budget. People who get annoyed by the occasional growl of Ferraris, Lamborghinis, and McLarens that pull up curbside.

The dining room in Bulgari Suite I.

The living room in Bulgari Suite I.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

I've always thought of Knightsbridge as the part of London that's thronged with tourists flocking to Harrods, but I found it the perfect jumping-off point for exploring Mayfair, Notting Hill, and North London. The tube station is just steps away from the hotel; Fifth Floor at Harvey Nichols still has the best jams and conveyor belt sushi; and Brompton Road and High Street have everything a hotel guest could need — Boots, Carphone Warehouse for chargers, and the food hall at Harrods which, I must admit, is wonderful.

Things to Do Nearby

Head out the hotel front door to Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens before hitting the wonderful restaurants of Kensington and Notting Hill, like Sally Clarke's, The Ledbury, and E&O. For a scenic stroll, pass behind Harrods and walk down Chelsea's Walton Street to Brompton Cross for chic shops like Joseph and Chanel and lunch spots like Itsu (another conveyor belt sushi with great people-watching) and La Brasserie (excellent steak frites served by waiters with Continental attitude).

Steps from the hotel are concerts at Royal Albert Hall and permanent collections of fashion, furniture, jewelry, and decorative objects at Victoria & Albert Museum. Natural History Museum and the Science Museum is great for families, with its turbines, locomotives, and flight simulators. After a packed day, nothing beats robata-grilled tiger prawns with yuzu or sea bass with burnt tomato and ginger relish at Zuma on Raphael Street just behind the hotel.

Michael Govan’s Los Angeles

The Los Angeles County Museum of Art director has, during his 10-year tenure, propelled the museum to one of the city’s foremost arts institutions

Image: Patrick Fraser

Perfect Saturdays begin at Santa Monica Airport, where I’ll have coffee at the nearby Spitfire Grill before flying my single-engine 1979 Beechcraft Bonanza to Malibu or Point Dume. Flying is my passion; I adore the emptiness of the sky.

If my wife Katherine, our daughter Gabrielle [11] and my daughter Ariana [21], who’s a student at UCLA and also a pilot, are with me, we’ll head to Catalina; the raw nature of the island and roaming buffalo make you feel very far away. We’ll rent a cabana at the cool Descanso Beach Club and have a bison burger at the mountain-top DC-3 Gifts & Grill.

In the afternoon I might stop by LACMA to give a private tour and see how people are interacting with the art, and then we’ll visit the light-filled James Turrell-designed Skyspace at the Kayne Griffin Corcoran gallery, or Regen Projects to see work by its excellent stable of contemporary artists, such as Catherine Opie, Toba Khedoori and Doug Aitken.

If my kids have their say, we’ll then head to The Original Farmers Market – it’s home to over 100 gourmet vendors. Ariana loves Light My Fire for the incredible selection of hot sauces and we all like Loteria Grill’s spicy pork tacos. We’ll also stop at Huntington Meats to buy New York strip steaks for Sunday night’s supper.

The whole family loves books, so we might visit Taschen to look at new art publications, and Barnes & Noble for its massive children’s section. If there’s time we’ll go to Griffith Observatory – one of the most exotic-looking buildings in LA – to hear director Ed Krupp talk about astronomy and the history of the cosmos.

Saturday evenings often involve an art opening, followed by dinner of oysters and steak frites at République in Hancock Park, or hamburgers and martinis at the lively Tower Bar. Dimitri is the ultimate maître d’ and always has a table for us.

On Sundays we’ll read the online papers in bed and look at Flipboard, my favourite app, with content from The New Yorker to Arts & Letters Daily. If Peter Zumthor – our architect on the new LACMA project – is in town, I’ll take him to the 1920s Spanish-style Los Angeles Tennis Club for a mid-morning game. When he signed on for this project it was one of his prerequisites. He plays every day and I’m just pleased I can hold my own.

If Gabrielle gets to choose our lunch spot it’ll be In-N-Out Burger – for the French fries – and we’ll usually stop at the smaller Larchmont Farmers Market to get some greens for dinner. The afternoons are often the only quiet time I have to write essays; currently I’m working on one for our upcoming Picasso and Rivera: Conversations Across Time show.

Sunday evenings we can always count on Ariana popping by for laundry night, and friends like Julian Sands or Jorge Pardo joining us for dinner. Meals usually end with one of Katherine’s delicious homemade desserts – apple crumble perhaps, or meringues with caramel.

On the rare Sunday night that we don’t cook at home, we’ll meet Eva and Michael Chow for a Korean barbecue at Chosun Galbee in Koreatown; nearly all the signs in this part of town are in Korean so the experience is totally transporting. We also love Chinatown’s Pok Pok for its great Thai food and cool 1970s tunes.

The end of the day is about catching up on the latest films and TV shows so I don’t sound like an idiot – in LA this is “required reading”. Right now we’re enjoying House of Cards and Amazon’s transgender series Transparent. Bedtime is late – 1.30am or so – as this is the only time I have before all hell breaks loose on Monday morning.

John Nollet: crowning glories

Statement-making handmade hair accessories

It was while working as a hair stylist to stars, including Nicole Kidman, Monica Bellucci, Uma Thurman and Vanessa Paradis, that John Nollet (fourth picture) had “the initial spark to create hair jewels”. The charming, Paris-based haute couturier of hair expanded his repertoire to include one-of-a-kind, handmade accessories that can range from feather-festooned barrettes (€600) to elaborate headbands and tiaras (€1,000-€7,000 and upwards), incorporating pearls, silk and raffia, often with the help of master embroiderers Métiers d’Art and Lemarié Ateliers.

Nollet delights in working with clients one on one – whether at his jewel-box salons at the Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme and Hôtel Cheval Blanc in Courchevel, or by email and phone. Most of his commissions are for special occasions – weddings, film premieres, black-tie soirées – and designed to enhance a specific outfit. For those interested in a subtle flourish, clips – or “sparks”, as Nollet calls them – can be created in hues of gold, silver and black to add a special flicker to cascading locks. Dramatic looks, however, are a Nollet strength; his Night Queen plume (€2,240, first picture), for example, is a statement-making accent to a traditional ponytail crafted in real hair of varying shades. Feathers (second and third pictures) are another signature, often embellished with intricate beadwork, and designs cost between €1,200-€5,000, depending on the complexity of the piece.

Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology

The exhibition is set to wow – but so is the gift shop

The Costume Institute’s annual spring exhibition is a highlight of the New York cultural/couture calendar, and this year’s show – Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology – promises to be one of the most exciting yet. Opening on May 5 and running until August 14, Manus x Machina will explore the impact of technology on fashion – from the founding of haute couture in the 19th century to today’s ready-to-wear. The exhibition will be preceded by the Met Gala on May 2 – a star-studded celebration overseen by co-chairs Idris Elba, Jony Ive, Taylor Swift and Anna Wintour, as well as honorary chairs Nicolas Ghesquière, Karl Lagerfeld, and Miuccia Prada – which will raise funds for the Institute’s programming and acquisitions.

“Traditionally, the distinction between haute couture and prêt-à-porter was based on the handmade and the machine-made, but recently this distinction has become increasingly blurred as both disciplines have embraced the practices and techniques of the other,” says Andrew Bolton, curator of The Costume Institute. Manus x Machina will include over 150 handmade (manus) and mass-produced (machina) garments that will illustrate the relationship between these two very different modes of production.

Designers featured in the exhibition include greats from Cristóbal Balenciaga to Yohji Yamamoto, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel to Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), and Madame Grès to Mary Katrantzou. Displayed in galleries that evoke a traditional couture atelier (complete with petites mains workshops for embroidery, feather and lacework and braiding) will be pairings of exquisitely embellished haute couture gowns and garments – such as an embroidered Chanel wedding ensemble (second picture) from autumn/winter 2013/2014 and a 1969/1970 Yves Saint Laurent feather evening dress (first picture) – and their machine-made, ready-to-wear counterparts. In contrast are ensembles created using cutting-edge technologies such as 3D printing, laser cutting, thermo shaping and ultrasonic welding – to name but a few.

In addition to the stunning fashion on display, a Shohei Shigematsu/OMA-designed pop-up shop will feature covetable merchandise – some of it limited edition (such as three prints of images of the show, $75 each). Highlights include an organically inspired Endo clutch by Flowen (from $3,950) and scarves ($480, third picture) by Israeli 3D designer Noa Raviv, and vibrant Issey Miyake Bao Bao bags ($450-$925, fifth picture) as well as his Pleats Please scarves ($215, fourth picture). I have my eye on colourful silicone jewellery inspired by sea life from Paris’s Tzuri Gueta (rings from $95-$445), glasses-cum-magnifying glass ($90) by Maison Margiela, and a sumptuous limited-edition exhibition catalogue ($295).

“Both the automated and handcrafted process require similar amounts of thoughtfulness and expertise,” says Jony Ive, Apple’s chief design officer. “There are instances where technology is optimised, but ultimately it’s the amount of care put into the craftsmanship that transforms ordinary materials into something extraordinary.” Manus x Machina promises to be The Met’s most extraordinary spring spectacle…

Le Grand Hotel: A Contemporary Palace in Paris

Fathom contributor and hotel critic Christina Ohly checks into a spectacularly grand boutique hotel in the heart of Paris.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Set in an 18th-century building partly designated as a historical monument, Grand Hotel du Palais Royal Paris is a true gem in a city bursting with wonderful hotels. The chic boutique bolthole has all the advantages of a large, luxury hotel, but at just 68 rooms, is the only five-star of its kind in the well-situated Palais Royal area.

A soothing, sumptuous escape, the hotel is a study in neutral hues and minimalist aesthetics. Best of all, it is literally feet away from the gardens of Palais Royal — just stroll through the colonnade across the street from the hotel's lobby and you're transported to another time. Also in striking distance are the Tulleries, the Louvre, and wonderful shopping on both Rue Sainte-Honoré and in St. Germain-des-Pres across the Seine.

The hotel lobby.

Beautiful detailing.

What's New

Noted French interiors guru Pierre-Yves Rochon renovated the rooms and common spaces, including Le Lulli restaurant and a cozy bar. The idea is to make you feel like the Palais is your maison away from home. A Carita spa and a reasonably well-outfitted gym (it's Paris after all, this isn't a priority) have also been updated, and great focus has been put on the concierge team, who work tirelessly to secure everything from Paris Saint Germain football tickets to hard-to-score reservations at restaurants such as Frenchie and Semilla to in-room doctor visits for sick children in need of antibiotics. (It wouldn't be a holiday without this added diversion, would it?)

What's on Site

You have all the amenities of one of the palace hotels found in the 8th and the 16th (gym, spa with hammam, delicious restaurant, spacious rooms with terraces), but the whole experience feels more intimate. Excellent WiFi, international newspapers, and plentiful adapters are pluses. The staff is willing to source anything — groceries, pharmacy finds, advance tickets to the Picasso Museum.

The Food

I'm a huge fan of breakfast, and I can't say enough good things about the complimentary spread in the conservatory restaurant, Le Lulli. The bright setting — brilliant green plants and a design-led Bertoia vibe — starts the day off right, and the selection of freshly baked breads, salads, fruit, cheeses, and excellent coffee are well beyond your typical, all-inclusive fare. Omelettes made to order are another highlight. The staff is attentive to every wish, sometimes before you've identified the need for more thé vert or jus d'orange. Lunch is also lovely, with light pouring into the restaurant and exquisitely prepared fish dishes and refined takes on the classic chicken Caesar salad.

The dining room at Le Lulli.

A superior room.

n the Room

There are 57 rooms and eleven suites across the hotel's five floors, and each is elegant and filled with light. The rooms feel both warm and modern — beige and cream with leather and wood finishes, desks, and gleaming marble bathrooms — and are wonderful places to return to after a day of work or sightseeing. Minibars are stocked with beverages but little else, so ask for additional supplies or stock up at the nearby Franprix just down Rue St. Honoré. There are flat-screen TVs with umpteen channels in all languages, as well as strong, hot showers, thick towels, and enormous robes which all coalesce to ease the pain of long-haul flights.

Room with a View

Our family of four occupied two interconnecting rooms (308 and 309) overlooking quiet Rue du Valois and the entrance to Palais Royal. Bright even on slightly dreary days, these rooms work incredibly well for children of all ages, but next time I will stay in one of the terrace or panorama suites. Both are on the top floor, accessible by private elevator. Some have views of Palais Royal, while others have vistas of the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, and Opera Garnier.

This Place Is Perfect For

Families, business travelers, fashionistas who want access to the nearby shops and ateliers of Paris' leading designers, and anyone who has a thing for the loggias and ambience of the Palais Royal. This is simply a rare gem.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone who wants the big, shiny Parisian hotel experience. For this, head straight to the impressive new Peninsula on Avenue Kleber (also lovely, just a different experience).

The Palais Royal suite.

The bathroom in the Panorama Suite.

The view from the Panorama Suite.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Real life is happening here. You're not on a polished street in the Golden Triangle, but rather in the heart of the working city. Commuters come out of Palais Royal metro and scurry by, while tourists pass en route to the side entrance and the pyramids of the Louvre.

What to Do Nearby

There are no shortage of activities. Louvre, Musee D'Orsay, and the Opera are nearby. Excellent restaurants, of which there are many, include Café Marly in the colonnades of the Louvre, a perennial favorite for lunch and people-watching.

My favorite eateries are further afield, like the new Kinugawa Matignon in the 8th, which shines for both excellent sashimi and chic ambience. Ralph's in Saint Germain-des-Pres is wonderful for spring and summer lunches en plein air, as is a spread of Poilâne tartines at the casual Bar de la Croix Rouge (2 Place Michel Debré; +33-1-4548-0645), more toned down than nearby Café de Flore (172 Boulevard Saint-Germain; +33-1-4548-5526) and Les Deux Magots (which will always be mainstays).

Semilla, also in the 6th arrondissement, is an excellent choice for both the design-led space and small plates of grilled shiitake mushrooms and enormous bowls of cake and ice cream drizzled with caramel sauce — dishes meant for sharing that add to the relaxed, convivial vibe.

The high-end shops (YSL, Prada, Hermès...) are on Rue Saint-Honoré, while smaller gems are hidden across the Seine in St. Germain-des-Pres. L/Uniform is hands-down my favorite shop for stylish, practical canvas and leather bags by the daughter-in-law of the Goyard family. Muriel Grateau is a beautiful, spare space full of exquisite linen napkins, minimalist ceramics, and strong, statement-making crystal jewelry. Basics like Le Bon Marché and Du Pareil au Même (the French answer to/or a cooler version of Baby Gap) are both in this area of the 6th.

Lovers of good design should flock to 107Rivoli (part of Musee des Arts Décoratifs), which is full of incredible accessories, books, lighting, jewelry, and more. It's a short walk from the hotel next to the Louvre.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Good to Know

Book directly through the hotel so that upgrades and changes are handled directly with the front desk. The owners of this hotel are all about happy customers and will upgrade whenever possible. Don't be shy about asking. Ditto for early check-ins and bag storage. Both are helpful after a red-eye flight.

Uber is big in Paris: Cheaper, faster, nicer drivers (generally) who dole out sweets and bottled water make rides a win-win.

How to Get There

The hotel is approximately 45 minutes from Charles De Gaulle airport (CDG) by car (depending on the time of day) and 30 minutes from Paris Orly airport (ORY), which services much of Europe. The Palais Royal Metro is around the corner from the hotel and is by far the easiest way to get around, particularly during Fashion Week when the area becomes gridlocked.

The cool retro vibe of Hotel Alexandra, Copenhagen

The cool retro vibe of Hotel Alexandra, Copenhagen

I grew up with grandparents that celebrated all things Scandinavian; Georg Jensen and Arne Jacobsen were common names around their house, and I inherited from them a love of all things midcentury. So when I stayed at Copenhagen’s Hotel Alexandra earlier this year I was in design heaven, for this authentic and affordable 61-room boutique gem – situated just steps from the Tivoli Gardens and bustling City Hall Square – is a passionate, authentic recreation of this fertile era of Danish design.

The retro vibe begins in the chic lobby space (first picture) and is carried throughout the hotel, where all the furniture and light fixtures, fabrics and artworks are genuine midcentury articles (with the welcome additions of flatscreen TVs and WiFi), chosen with vintage furniture expert Anders Petersen – and virtually every object is also for sale. The standard rooms (from €180) are small yet quite special, as no two are exactly alike, but it is the deluxe versions and suites (from €240) dedicated to specific designers – from the calmly minimal Hans J Wegner room (second picture) to the psychedelic 1960s-style Verner Panton suite (third picture) – that really stand out.

The most recent addition to the mix is the 35 sq m Collector’s Suite (from €240 per night, fourth picture) – an exquisite rosewood-panelled space that overlooks the hotel courtyard and Studiestræde below, and which will be reconceived several times each year by Petersen. The furnishings – an early Wegner Sawhorse chair (€2,546), a sculptural coat rack by Adam Hoff and Poul Østergaard (€697), and the black leather upholstered couch by Hans Olsen (€5,200) – are all, in my opinion, worthy of the Museum of Modern Art.

“The point of the room is to make guests feel like they are in a time capsule,” says Petersen – and it works, helped along by the early-1970s ceramics and carefully selected tomes devoted to Panton and Jacobsen that grace the suite’s minimalist dark wood shelving system by Kai Kristiansen (€1,300).

“Our next interior will be dedicated to Poul Kjærholm, one of the most iconic Danish furniture architects of all time,” explains Petersen. “With the help of his daughter, Krestine, we will be producing a bed he originally designed for his own home and of which there are currently only three in existence.”

Benjamin Millepied talks personal taste: Part One

Dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied is the outgoing director of dance for the Paris Opera and the founder of artist collective LA Dance Project

My personal style signifiers are Christophe Lemaire trousers and shirts by Acne – usually in dark colours; my clothes, even if fitted, have a sense of comfort and ease of movement. I tend to wear everything with a pair of black leather lace-ups by Feit: the craftsmanship is impeccable, they’re beautifully designed and they’re very minimal, which is in keeping with my overall style. From £130; www.acnestudios.com. From €540; www.feitdirect.com. From €355; www.lemaire.fr.

Frenchie To Go café in Paris

The best gift I’ve given recently was a first edition of Gertrude Stein’s What Are Masterpieces?. I love old books and think anything by Stein is interesting, but this particular edition is very special. I bought it at Shakespeare and Company, where shopping is always a wonderful experience. 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris (+331 4325 4093;www.shakespeareandcompany.com).

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Iceland. The areas we visited were almost uninhabited and some of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been to. I loved the combination of natural landscape, pure air and absolute quiet. We stayed at the ION Luxury Adventure Hotel [pictured] in Selfoss, where the scenery and food were both outstanding. I’d love to go back and see the Northern Lights there next year. Nesjavellir vid Thingvallavatn 801 (+354‑482 3415; www.ioniceland.is).

Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate, £36 for 50ml

And the best souvenirs I’ve brought home are six Bauhaus-style chairs from the depths of a flea market in Jaffa, Tel Aviv. This is the largest Bauhaus city in the world – many architects fled here during the second world war – and one of the chairs I found is from a traditional kibbutz. The others are made of a light-coloured wood and are quite angular. All six now feature prominently at our home in Paris.

The modernist Oliver House, Silver Lake, LA, designed by Rudolf Schindler

A recent “find” is the incredible area around the Rue du Nil in the second arrondissement of Paris. You can source wonderful organic vegetables, cheeses and meats from Terroirs d’Avenir and enjoy Paris’s best Reuben sandwich from the café Frenchie To Go [pictured]. It’s all there on a single street. Frenchie To Go, 9 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris (+331-4026 2343; www.frenchietogo.com). Terroirs d’Avenir, 6-8 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris (+331-8170 9798; www.terroirs-avenir.fr).

Undefeated x Converse trainers

The sight that inspires me is the light at around 5pm as it pierces the streets of LA. Whether I’m in Silver Lake or Koreatown, I love that you can see so many decades in one street’s architecture – from art deco to modernism – all bathed in this beautiful light.

The ION Luxury Adventure Hotel in Selfoss, Iceland

The last music I listened to was James Blake’s latest songRadio Silence. I love his voice and the complexity of his rhythms.

An indulgence I would never forgo is a great steak. At Mario Batali’s Osteria Mozza in LA they do a truffle-crusted rib eye that is crazy, and the flat-iron steak at The Factory Kitchen is also outstanding. The Factory Kitchen, 1300 Factory Place, CA 90013 (+1213-996 6000; www.thefactorykitchen.com). Osteria Mozza, 6602 Melrose Avenue, CA 90038 (+1323-297 0100; www.osteriamozza.com).

The last items of clothing I added to my wardrobe include a pair of Japansee-style loose black cashmere trousers from a new clothing line I’m developing with Berluti; a Saint Laurent tailored overcoat; and sweatshirts, sweatpants and trainers [pictured] by Undefeated that I wear when I’m in LA. www.berluti.com. www.undefeated.com. www.ysl.com.

The grooming staples I’m never without are Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate [pictured], a nighttime facial oil, and Christophe Robin’s Delicate Volumising shampoo and conditioner, which is very moisturising. Christophe Robin shampoo, £28 for 250ml; conditioner, £32 for 250ml; www.net-a-porter.com. Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate, £36 for 50ml; www.kiehls.co.uk.

My favourite websites include Medium.com for excellent, forward-thinking articles, and Lefigaro.fr, Lemonde.fr and Nytimes.comfor news and opinion. Economist.com is great for world politics and business, and Theartnewspaper.com is my go-to for the latest about the visual arts.

Benjamin Millepied talks personal taste: Part Two

The choreographer concludes his list of likes with the sartorial elegance of Jimmy Stewart, the passion of Anselm Kiefer and the cultural abundance of LA

My style icons are Jimmy Stewart and Fred Astaire, who wore clothes elegantly and carried themselves with a nonchalant confidence; American movie stars like these are rare today. And Alain Delon, because his style is never over-thought.

The best gift I’ve received recently is a photograph by Dutch artist Pim Van Os called Untitled (Light Abstraction). It’s a beautiful silver gelatin print from the 1950s and was a present from my wife [Natalie Portman].

Jimmy Stewart | Image: Getty Images

The last thing I bought and loved was a really fitted elastic shirt by Acne. It has a very high neckline and is suitable for work but elegant enough to be worn to an evening performance at the ballet. www.acnestudios.com.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a pair of black Berluti loafers [from £530]. They look traditional but they’re made of the finest, thinnest leather so they feel almost like a ballet shoe. They’ll work well with everything from loose-fitting cashmere trousers to a suit. www.berluti.com.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Septime in Paris’s 11th arrondissement. It’s industrial yet slightly rustic and has an imaginative menu and combinations of ingredients. I love vegetables and a recent beautifully minimalist supper included white asparagus, mountain spinach and steamed cod, all paired with natural wines. 80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris(+331-4367 3829; www.septime-charonne.fr)

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Anselm Kiefer. There is such great depth and passion in his brushwork, and I particularly love his very large paintings of flower fields that seem inspired by Van Gogh. His aquarelles are beautiful too, and I’ve been lucky enough to visit his studio and see him at work; it was an unforgettable experience.

Septime restaurant in Paris | Image: François Flohic

The people I rely on for personal grooming are Philippe at the Christophe Robin salon at Hôtel Le Meurice – he often comes to me and knows exactly how to cut my hair – and any of the stylists at Rudy’s Barbershop on Sunset Boulevard, where the atmosphere is always lively. Christophe Robin, Hôtel Le Meurice, 228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris (+331-4020 0283; www.christophe-robin.com). Rudy’s Barbershop, 4451 W Sunset Boulevard, CA 90027 (+1323-661 6535; www.rudysbarbershop.com).

My favourite room in my house is the kitchen. It’s where we spend most of our time as a family and we love to cook and really use the space. It’s modern with lots of natural light and the atmosphere is always very alive.  

An Anselm Kiefer restrospective at the Royal Academy of Arts | Image: Ukartpics/Alamy stock photo

If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is LA. There is so much to do culturally and I particularly love the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, hearing the LA Philharmonic at the Hollywood Bowl and watching movies under the stars at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery. A great day starts with an Intelligentsia coffee, which is so much better than anything in Paris, followed by a walk in Griffith Park and around the Observatory. I also like the creative Spanish-fusion cuisine at Bäco Mercat downtown and the Sunset Tower Hotel and Soho House for their vibrant atmosphere. From the Frank Lloyd Wright houses to Pasadena City College flea market, there is so much to see and do in this magical, fascinating and colourful city, and yet its potential for growth seems limitless. Bäco Mercat, 408 S Main Street (+1213-687 8808; www.bacomercat.com). Griffith Park, 4730 Crystal Springs Drive (+1323-913 4688; www.laparks.org). Hollywood Forever Cemetery, 6000 Santa Monica Boulevard (+1323-469 1181; www.cinespia.org). Intelligentsia Coffee, www.intelligentsiacoffee.com. LA Philharmonic at the Hollywood Bowl, www.laphil.com. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 5905 Wilshire Boulevard (+1323-857 6000; www.lacma.org). Pasadena Flea Market, 1570 E Colorado Boulevard (+1626-585 7906; www.pasadena.edu). Soho House West Hollywood, 9200 Sunset Boulevard (+1310-432 9200; www.sohohousewh.com). Sunset Tower Hotel, 8358 Sunset Boulevard (+1323-654 7100; www.sunsettowerhotel.com).

In my fridge you’ll always find hummus; assorted organic berries, milk and yoghurt for my son; a selection of cheeses from Terroirs d’Avenir, including a good blue and a Camembert; and whatever wild mushrooms are in season. I like cooking and mushrooms are a real favourite; I sautée morels or fry porcinis and often make fresh mushroom sauce for pasta. 6-8 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris (+331-8170 9798; www.terroirs-avenir.fr).

Dancers, Buildings and People in the Streets, by Edwin Denby

The books on my bedside table include Dave Eggers’s A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius; Rainer Maria Rilke’s Letters to a Young Poet; Jennifer Homans’s Apollo’s Angels: A History of Ballet; and Dancers, Buildings, and People in the Streets by dance critic Edwin Denby. Sergei Diaghilev’s biography is always there as well. I love it all – history, fiction, poetry – but I especially like reading about dance.

The objects I would never part with are a series of Irving Penn photographs of dancers that I’ve collected over time. They’re from his Ballet Society series in the 1940s and have a ghostly quality; the dancers look like angels. To me, these images embody ballet and I would love to add to them over time.

Merci boutique in Paris

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the fourth arrondissement in Paris. This area in the Marais is packed with smaller stores including Christophe Lemaire’s boutique in a former pharmacy, which is full of the minimalist clothing I like. Then there’s Acne Studios and concept store Merci, which is an incredible place to find emerging designers, housewares and virtually everything else, plus I love its philanthropic angle. The vibrant Café Français – a brasserie facing the Opéra – is a great place for lunch. Acne Studios, 3 Rue Froissart (+331-4996 9691; www.acnestudios.com). Café Français, 1-3 Place de la Bastille (+331-4029 0402; www.cafe-francais.fr). Christophe Lemaire, 28 Rue de Poitou (+331-4478 0009; www.lemaire.fr). Merci, Boulevard Beaumarchais (+331- 4277 0033; www.merci-merci.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an architect, pianist or conductor. Each discipline relates to what I do now, and I would love to conduct and interpret a score.

The Ascendance of Joseph Altuzarra

Exquisite tailoring and embellishment are the hallmarks of the young designer's ever-evolving aesthetic.

An acute eye for detail, texture, and color place Joseph Altuzarra in a league of his own. With ready-to-wear collections inspired by everything from 18th-century dandies, to Truman Capote’s stylish “swans,” to circa 1950 American railroad workers, New York–based Altuzarra is the thinking woman’s designer. His refined pieces—in a wide range of fabrics and finishes, including linen, leather, burlap, and velvet—all tell a visual story, and often incorporate parts of the designer’s Franco-American background, as well as his love of literature, film, and dance.

Raised in Paris by a Chinese-American mother and a French father, Altuzarra studied ballet before heading to the U.S. to pursue a degree in art history at Swarthmore College. It was through these studies that his eyes were opened to the world of fashion, one that he went on to learn about from the ground up, working at maisons on both sides of the Atlantic. With early experiences at Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler in New York, followed by an apprenticeship with patternmaker and former Rochas head Nicolas Caito, and after a role as first assistant to Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy, Altuzarra launched his eponymous line in 2008.

In just eight years the brand has become synonymous with feminine tailoring and a sophisticated-yet-playful aesthetic, with expansion continuing beyond the designer’s signature thigh-high slit skirts, vibrant silk blouses, flowy dresses, and fitted jackets. A minority investment by Kering in 2013 helped fuel the addition of a handbag line that includes a mix of casually structured shapes in everything from smooth calf to Sfumato leather to luxurious crocodile. It all culminated in 2014, when he was awarded the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s prestigious Womenswear Designer of the Year award.

Altuzarra’s spring/summer 2016 collection marks the next chapter in the designer’s multicultural, artistic exploration. It was the discovery of a book, Wilder Mann by Charles Fréger, featuring photographs of pagan rituals from the Basque region of France, that spurred the creation of this latest assortment of effortless, dip-dyed linen dresses and coats—as well as the exquisite mother of pearl and broderie anglaise embellishments that adorn them. Surface recently met with Altuzarra at his Soho atelier to discuss the influence of his banker parents, whom he credits with his pragmatism; his favorite campy films; and the role his husband, Seth Weissman, as well as friends including Alexander Wang and Vanessa Traina, play in his creative process.

You were born to a Chinese-American mother and French-Basque father. How does your background inform your design aesthetic?

It’s central to how I think about fashion and clothes and also my process. There is a duality between my French and American sides: I grew up in Paris surrounded by film and dance, so I have that French sensibility. On the other side, I’ve always been fascinated by American culture and the pragmatism, ease, and comfort it embodies. The marriage of these two sides of my personality is the Altuzarra brand.

I’ve read that you love film. Are there any movies that have been particularly impactful for you?

My parents love movies, and I grew up surrounded by all genres. One film that was particularly important was Si Versailles m’était conté [Royal Affairs in Versailles (1957)]. I watched this sprawling epic about life at Versailles over and over again, and the campy evolution of the costumes fascinated me. I also loved anything with Audrey Hepburn—Sabrina (1954) was a favorite—and tended toward less mainstream films as a teenager. Orlando (1992) had a huge effect on me because it was more ambiguous in its narrative.

Why did you choose to study at Swarthmore, and why art history?

Growing up bilingual with a Chinese-American mother, I always knew I wanted to study in the U.S. None of my classmates were going abroad for university at that time, and there were no SAT prep classes. I happened to see the film Ten Things I Hate About You (1999) in which the star ends up at Sarah Lawrence College. I looked it up online, and a box popped up saying, “If you like this school, you’ll also like Swarthmore, Amherst, Williams, Brown, and Haverford.” I applied to many of them, and one of my father’s colleagues suggested I go to Swarthmore. It was an incredible experience, as it was the first time I found my community—I was always nerdy in high school, and I finally felt free and surrounded by people like me. I loved studying art history: the analytical side of it, and the subjective way of looking at the world. I wrote an essay linking fashion advertising to classical art iconography, specifically about the influence of Toulouse-Lautrec on the Yves Saint Laurent Opium perfume advertisement with a naked Sophie Dahl. Art history spurred my love for fashion.

You had a very impressive CV prior to starting your own company. Did those experiences have an effect on the way you run your label?

When I worked at Proenza Schouler, there were just six people there, and I had no formal training or technical skills. I also apprenticed at Marc Jacobs just out of college, where I was lucky to be a part of that busy process. I went on to apprentice for Nicolas Caito at Rochas, where I learned the technical side of fashion design—pattern-making, draping—and this boosted my confidence greatly. Nicolas encouraged me to go back to Paris, where I met Riccardo [Tisci, creative director of Givenchy] and became his assistant for two years. I was so young and under-qualified, and he believed in me. He was a great mentor. I’m still incredibly grateful to him.

Your parents were both bankers and have been your biggest supporters. How did their business acumen help to launch the Altuzarra brand?

They made me a business-minded person, and I have always loved that side of the Altuzarra brand. My goal is success in design, but I always strive for financial success as well. Their involvement from the beginning—in the recession of 2008, no less—created a culture of frugality and an awareness of what we were spending. My mother, Karen, was the CEO of the brand for the first four years, before transitioning to our current CEO, Karis Durmer. My mom is still the chairman of the board and is actively involved in all aspects of the brand.

What was the inspiration for your first collection? Did you see a void in the market?

My first collection [spring/summer 2009] was born out of my wanting to create clothes that were sophisticated yet sexy, for a changing consumer. I was seeing women who were aging differently—through different nutrition and exercise—who wanted to be seductive and strong, but in an adult way. I saw women identifying with Meryl Streep, for example, who wanted to be the romantic lead in their own lives. That thought process has been the through-line for every collection since. Bottom line: Women want to be beautiful, not frumpy.

You create sophisticated, sexy clothes that combine a French and American sensibility. Is there a core customer? A muse?

[Stylists] Vanessa Traina and Melanie Huynh have been supporters since the very first season and represent the Altuzarra woman to me. These are women in their 30s, balancing full lives, who have an exacting, sophisticated sensibility. These women continue to inspire me, as do women like Julianne Moore and Nicole Kidman, who possess inherent style and self-confidence.

Who were your earliest champions?

Carine Roitfeld [former editor of Vogue Paris] has been an incredible mentor from the very beginning, even before my first collection. Mark Holgate is a great mentor and friend who set up my first meeting with Anna Wintour [editor of Vogue]. Funny story about my initial meeting with Anna: I was supposed to meet and present my collection to her the day after flying from Paris to New York, but the airline lost everything. She was gracious about rescheduling and has been an incredible supporter ever since. She called and got us into places like Barneys and Dover Street Market and really helped to launch the Altuzarra brand.

You’ve been the recipient of numerous awards: the CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear Design in 2012, the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2011, the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Award in 2014. Which one has been the most meaningful?

The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2011 was a huge moment for me because it was a competition: months of work and dedication went into the process, and ultimately, it put us on the map.

You’ve designed costumes for the New York City Ballet. Would you like to do more theatrical design?

That collaboration came about through a summer share in Fire Island several years ago. My husband and I were in a house with choreographer Christopher Wheeldon, who was working with the New York City Ballet at the time. I’ve always loved ballet and studied dance throughout my childhood, so when he asked if I might be interested in designing costumes I jumped at the chance. I went to all of the rehearsals and saw the choreography in progress, and we came up with a very American, casual look for this piece, one that was all about light, flirty garments that would highlight the movement of the dancers.

You’ve collaborated with Target and J. Crew, among other brands. What makes such projects interesting?

As the winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, I was invited to collaborate with J. Crew on a collection of six pieces—a dress, shirts, sweaters, shoes—that were inspired by a preppy American aesthetic, but also by Breton stripes and French gingham. I wanted to play with the codes of prep, and also introduce Brigitte Bardot shapes and 1950s styling to a wider audience.

What made the sale of a minority stake to Kering particularly interesting to you?

I was approached by [Kering CEO François Henri] Pinault, who is a wonderful person and has respect for designers and their process. I felt that he loved our brand and could add value, and the partnership has been hugely beneficial to us. From the logistics of production teams in Italy, to helping with the development of our handbags, to expertise in margins and world geographies, we’re always learning from Kering.

Last fall saw the launch of your first collection of handbags, inspired by bull riding whips from the American Southwest. What do you love about their hand-woven details?

It was our first product extension, so it had to embody the core values of Altuzarra. I wanted the bags to have a French/American duality, and also to be sexy with an easy sensibility. I didn’t want them to be hard or structured, and I was focused on incorporating folkloric craft. I found the braided whips while researching online and fell in love with the handcrafted aesthetic, as well as their sturdiness and practicality.

What was the inspiration for the hardware and the handles? Do these elements fuse your love of things both French and American?

The ends of cigarette lighters were the inspiration for the gold hardware on the bags, and this is definitely the French influence. The closures and handles were inspired by equestrian life, specifically American horse culture. I have incorporated elements of the New Mexican riding whips into everything from hobo bags to cross-body versions.

With a bag, form follows function—what makes your elegant yet utilitarian bags work?

I wanted the bags to be beautiful, but ultimately they have to work for today’s busy, professional, stylish woman. The braiding of the straps needs to be soft and malleable, handles need to fit over bulky coats, and they often need to hold heavy things like laptops, so they need to be sturdy. And I was adamant about them being easy to open and close with one hand. The bags feature inside/outside zips, light linen insides so that finding keys is easy, and covered magnet closures that actually work but also look good.

What bag shapes will we see next and in what leathers?

The first bags were less structured, more casual, while the next version will be a more formal shoulder bag in smooth calf.

What has been the most challenging part of handbag design? Was there something you didn’t know going in?

When designing clothes, you aren’t always thinking about functionality first. With handbags, however, you can’t design unless you know how the person will use it. Will it hold an iPhone? A computer? Papers? I also didn’t know much about attaching handles and the importance of a swivel feature.

Your husband works in property development in New York. How did you meet?

We met 10 years ago, were friends for five years, and we married in 2014. One anecdote that gives insight into his personality is the story of our engagement. Every Saturday morning we walk our dog, Bean, and one of us goes for coffee and the newspapers. On this particular Saturday, Seth went out, changed into a tuxedo, and put a “Will you marry me?” collar on the dog. I said yes, of course, and was greeted by the Swarthmore a cappella group singing “A Whole New World.” From there we went to Soho House for a surprise engagement brunch for 100 friends. The entire day was spectacular.

While you aren’t particularly part of a flashy fashion party set, many of your friends—Alexander Wang, Christopher Turnier, Vanessa Traina—are involved in that world. How were these friendships formed, and why do you choose to lay low?

Part of it comes from knowing that the fashion world is fickle. I want my happiness to be predicated on things outside of the industry. I think it’s important to have deep, real, long-lasting friendships that I don’t have to put on Instagram. I’m lucky to have friends who are true and constant.

If you had to pick three items you would never part with, what would they be?

My platinum engagement ring by James de Givenchy engraved with the lyrics to “Come Rain or Come Shine,” which was our wedding song. Another precious object is a Hermès diary given to me by mother when I was 18. It’s embossed with my initials and is now full of sketches. The last thing isn’t an item or an object, but is Bean, our almost-8-year-old mini-schnauzer.

What’s next for you?

I’m a slow and steady person. I believe you have to be careful and deliberate about what you put out there. That said, our next area of focus would likely be shoes, where I’d like to expand dramatically.

Rebecca Vizard: upscale upcycling

Ornate antique textiles reinvented as chic cushions

“I love taking something intricate and frilly and paring it down to make it sleek and contemporary,” says textile designer Rebecca Vizard of the exquisite pillows she creates using antique fabric fragments – from Aubusson tapestries and Fortuny damasks to Flemish ecclesiastical vestments and Ottoman gold embroideries.

It’s a passion that began with a visit to the Porte de Vanves flea market in Paris, where she was introduced to dazzling fabric remnants from Holland, Belgium and Italy. “I’m in awe of Renaissance textiles. I salvage pieces, restore them using threads with the right patina, and then rearrange them into different compositions and patterns,” she explains.

From her studio in northern Louisiana, Vizard – along with her team of seamstresses – makes bespoke pieces that grace chic apartments in Manhattan and London, as well as royal residences in Abu Dhabi. Her commissions for private clients and high-profile decorators such as Bunny Williams take many forms, including bolsters in shades of French blue, rose and ochre, all embellished with vintage thread.

It is her pillows, however, that are most sought-after – in particular her elongated designs (examples in first picture, from $2,000, and second picture, $1,825), often 1m or more in length, that accent couches and beds. Simpler decorative squares (example in third picture,$2,175) in muted velvets and rich, nubby linens are handcrafted using long, narrow strips from Italian vestments. Some cushions (from $3,600) even feature extremely rare, fragile fabrics such as a 17th-century Italian fragment depicting an Ionic column – beautifully framed for posterity.

Striking straw marquetry: Christophe Pourny

Cultivating a big voilà! moment upon walking into a room

“Straw marquetry is so unique, so precise, that no two pieces will ever be the same,” says French-born, Brooklyn-based furniture designer and restorer Christophe Pourny, “which makes it an attractive prospect for the person who wants a truly bespoke finish, texture, and surface.”

Inspired by the midcentury work of French interior designer Jean-Michel Frank, Pourny’s talent for lacquer work, inlay and traditional straw marquetry – working in handcut rye straw sourced from Burgundy and Brittany – is realised both through close collaborations with interior designers such as David Kleinberg, Jamie Drake and Thierry Morali, as well as by working on commissioned pieces for private clients ­– from cigar boxes ($1,000) to entire rooms (from $100,000).

The process typically takes two to three months, depending on the size and scope of work. Popular requests are for accent tables and consoles ($15,000), entertainment centres ($25,000) and night stands ($5,000) with exquisite, iridescent patterns in chevrons, fans, circles, sunbursts and, in the case of bespoke boxes, monograms or crests – in hues that range from the palest gold to rich, dark brown. Larger projects have included a foyer in Bratislava, a powder room ($20,000) in New York, and elevator doors and wall panelling for one London client “who wanted that big voilà! moment upon entry”, says Pourny.

He has also seen an uptick in requests from yacht owners who appreciate the “enduring finish that requires no maintenance. Straw is coated in silica that makes it naturally water resistant so no varnish or oil is required.”

For Pourny, the joy comes from “transforming what might be an ordinary piece of furniture into a stunner using an unexpected finish”. Indeed, the unexpected is what drives him to imaginative new heights: “My passion for such historical methods has taught me how to take creative licence when a piece merits it.”

Not the Georgetown of Your Youth: The Very Grown-Up Capella Hotel

Capella is a charming new addition to the Washington, DC, hotel scene. Guest services are at a premium, and the staff knows how to make a stay feel special but never ostentatious.

WASHINGTON, DC – It had been years since I’d spent any real time in Georgetown, the quaint Washington, D.C., neighborhood of cobblestone streets and picturesque row houses, and I was pleased to see that it has retained its charm even as it’s been spiffed up in recent years. I went in expecting the M Street of my youth — a main drag cluttered with chain stores and tourists — and instead found a contender for my new favorite urban hotel, excellent restaurants, and quiet, atmospheric side streets at every turn.

CHECKING IN

Overview

It used to be that a luxury stay in Georgetown was synonymous with The Four Seasons, a hotel long considered a DC power breakfast spot with a killer, central location. Now there is a new, design-led addition to the five-star hotel scene, the quietly cool Capella Hotel just down the street.

With 49 sumptuously appointed rooms, the high-touch, boutique escape is tucked away next to the historic C&O Canal Towpath. It feels like a luxurious homestay — albeit one with an excellent restaurant, a rooftop terrace with sweeping views of the Potomac, a state-of-the-art fitness facility, and a staff of knowledgeable personal assistants at your beck and call. I spent 24 blissful hours here and I can’t stop raving about it to anyone who will listen.

Claims to Fame

There are so many special touches at Capella, and they begin from the minute you check in at — get this! — whatever time you choose. There is no need to request an early check-in or a late check-out because the management believes that their customer wants flexibility above all else. I tested the system by arriving at 11 a.m. and was whisked to my room without delay. There is no traditional registration. Guests are somehow knowingly greeted curbside and all paperwork is handled in a discreet, pleasant way in a casual living room setting.

The property’s sleek, modern finishes, courtesy of designer Peter Sillig, include exquisite marble floors and paneling, parquet floors reclaimed from a European schloss, and a stellar contemporary art collection with works by abstract expressionists Edvins Strautmanis and Markus Lupertz and sculptures by English artist, Collin Reid, to name a few.

From the Living Room, with its eighteen-foot ceilings, to the Grill Room, a destination restaurant, to the clubby, cozy Rye Bar that draws a discreet, local crowd, the Capella feels like a hidden gem. Yet it is mere steps from the bustling intersection in the heart of Georgetown, M Street, and Wisconsin Avenue.

The private rooftop lounge at the Capella Hotel. 

The indoor/outdoor rooftop pool at Capella.

What’s on Site

The area is culturally rich — Georgetown University, The Kennedy Center, the Smithsonian museums — so, of course, you must leave the premises, but you will be hard-pressed to do so. Capella is just so peaceful, so cossetting, that it makes for a perfectly self-contained 48-hour stay.

The private rooftop lounge has an indoor/outdoor pool and a fire pit. Rye Bar on the first floor offers an excellent selection of craft cocktails and rare whiskeys to whet the appetite for the Grill Room next door. The soothing dining room — all hues of grey and aubergine — serves breakfast, lunch, brunch (that must be booked well in advance), and formal dinner.

I found the fitness facilities to be sufficient — an elliptical machine, a treadmill, and a bike overlooking the spires of Georgetown University and the National Cathedral. The truly motivated can go to a yoga studio and a more comprehensive gym nearbby.

There is no spa by design, as the management decided that in-room services were preferable for their clientele, but everything, from a simple pedicure to a haircut by noted stylist Luigi Parasmo, can be arranged with a few hours notice. Resident stylist April Yvonne is at the ready if the need arises for a frock to wear to the Kennedy Center or for after-hours access to Neiman Marcus. A personal assistant on staff specializes in cultural experiences like walk-on roles for children at The Washington Ballet and behind-the-scenes tours of Mount Vernon. In short, every request can be accommodated. 

Perhaps the biggest on site asset is Jason Denby, director of guest relations, who is incredibly attuned to his guests’ needs and knows how to make a stay feel special but never ostentatious.

The Grill Room restaurant at Capella.

The Food

One of the stars of the show at Capella is The Grill Room, a modern European restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the C&O Canal. Outdoor seating (with wool blankets and heat lamps when it’s chilly) lend it a European vibe, and executive chef Frank Ruta (formerly of the White House) creates everything from a terrific burger with shoestring fries to a refined Dover sole with passionfruit sabayon, leeks, and pea shoots. Familiar comfort foods — a wedge salad, thick cut pork chops — are thoughtfully tweaked and paired with delicious sides like oven-roasted potatoes and root vegetables drizzled with a warm anchovy balsamic vinaigrette.

A private dining room that seats up to eighteen guests is set like a glass-walled library at the center of the restaurant and would be a wonderful place to host a special event. Light bites — plates of salumi to share, artisanal cheeses, and freshly baked chocolate chip cookies — are available in The Rye Bar. Oh, and room service delivers a mean pasta Bolognese, as confirmed by my hungry teen who ordered it at an insane hour.

In the Room

All the rooms and suites have a separate sitting area with desk, a soaking tub, flat screen TVs, plush beds, and comfortable furnishings in shades of cream and grey.   

Spacious bathrooms have two sinks, plentiful mirrors, and rainfall showers and some have canal views. Other thoughtful touches include free WiFi, beverages, and newspapers of choice, as well as coffees, teas, and Keurig machines for brewing at all hours.

Room with a View

I stayed in a superior king room, a spacious 420 square feet overlooking 31st Street and the hotel entrance. This doesn’t sound lovely, but it was surprisingly quiet and there was abundant light. I liked seeing the small Italian restaurant across the street and the Potomac River in the distance.  

In an ideal world, I’d love to stay in one of two 1,200 square-feet Presidential Suites ($7,000 per night) for the full living rooms, stocked pantry areas, fireplaces, and, yes, the expansive views.  

This Place Is Perfect For

Business travelers, parents dropping kids off at Georgetown University, foodies, families who need large suites and interconnecting rooms, and couples looking for a romantic getaway. Capella has seriously wide appeal, and can work for a solo traveler as well as it did for the multi-generational family celebration that prompted my visit.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone looking for a scene or travelers who like a sprawling hotel with all the bells and whistles.

Rates

Superior king rooms start at $495 a night. 

The superior king room.

Presidential suite inspiration.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Georgetown is a bustling, walkable, college town. Get out and enjoy it.

What to Do Nearby

One block from the hotel is busy M Street, which has all the basics: pharmacies, Dean & Deluca (excellent spot for picnic provisions), lots of shops. A few more blocks away are N and O Streets, with their sweet, historic brick homes and well-manicured trees. Still further is Dumbarton Oaks, a stately house museum with gardens that makes for a great wander before hitting the Georgetown University campus at the corner of 37th and O Streets.

DC’s biggest annual events are the Cherry Blossom Festival, which begins at the end of March and is an occasion for an array of cultural activities as well as beautiful blooms, and the Fourth of July fireworks from the Mall, which some of the best in the country. July 4 guests will have a perfect, calm vantage point — cocktail in hand — from the Capella’s rooftop terrace.

Food is a major area focus. Nearby Fiola Mare in Georgetown Harbor serves incredible Italian seafood along the Potomac. Chez Billy Sud is a lovely spot for an intimate French meal. Café Milano is the go-to for all kinds of crudi. Obelisk in nearby Dupont Circle serves simple Italian fare in a charming townhouse setting. Sushi Taro offers a traditional kaiseki experience. Gourmands should take advantage of Capella’s ability to score a reservation at Minibar, molecular gastronomist José Andrés’ superb but tiny restaurant that offers a multi-course, fully immersive dining extravaganza. 

Good to Know

Consult the Georgetown University schedule to avoid Parent’s Weekend and graduation. Also, get comfortable with taxis and walking everywhere, as the DC Metro doesn’t stop in the vicinity.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get There

The Capella is a fifteen-minute taxi ride from Union Station (Amtrak) and Washington Reagan International Airport. The hotel’s personal assistants are very good at gauging traffic patterns and arranging taxis accordingly. When possible, they will have you driven in the hotel’s complimentary car that waits outside.

Getting Around

Parking in this part of Washington is a nightmare, so it’s best to explore the area on foot. Excellent restaurants, the scenic C&O Canal, the Georgetown University campus, and the particularly lovely N and O streets are all just a few blocks away.

Bobbi Brown talks personal taste: Part One

Bobbi Brown’s cosmetics brand brings in over 10 per cent of parent company Estée Lauder’s annual revenues

My personal style signifiers are dark-framed glasses of my own design worn with a black jacket – Chanel or Barneys own label – and tailored black jeans; I have more than 30 pairs and like Rag & Bone. I also always wear a watch – a sporty Cartier on a black strap or my new Apple Watch by Hermès.www.apple.com. www.barneys.com. www.chanel.com. www.hermes.com. www.rag-bone.com.

An indulgence I would never forgo is really good Casa Dragones Joven tequila [pictured]. It’s made from pure blue agave and comes in a beautiful crystal decanter – but at $275 a bottle it’s definitely an indulgence. www.casadragones.com.

Baker’s Bay, the Bahamas | Image: © The Islands of the Bahamas

The last music I downloaded was for my upbeat playlist that I listen to when I run – Pitbull’s Time Of Our Lives, Jay Z’s Magna Carta Holy Grail, Biggie Smalls’ Mo Money Mo Problems and Jeremih’s Don’t Tell ’Em. I love rap and hip hop.

The last thing I bought and loved was a Lanvin navy cardigan with rhinestone buttons. I found it at Jeffrey, a boutique in New York’s Meatpacking District; it was the only piece that called my name. It is one of Alber Elbaz’s last designs for Lanvin – part of design history. 449 W 14th St, New York, NY 10014 (+1212-206 1272; www.jeffreynewyork.com). www.lanvin.com.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a red buffalo and pebble-leather tote with detachable clutch by Seattle-based Ampersand As Apostrophe. I have a bag obsession – lightweight ones without obvious logos – and like to support niche brands. $609; www.ampersandasapostrophe.com.

The site that inspires me is Baker’s Bay [pictured] in the Bahamas. We are building a home there and the peaceful surroundings, turquoise water and white sandy beaches are very calming.

A Chance in the World by Steve Pemberton

The books on my bedside table are often memoirs and currently include At Liberty: From Rehab to the Front Row by Liberty’s managing director Ed Burstell, and A Chance in the World [pictured] by Steve Pemberton, the story of a man who rose from broken foster home to Fortune 50 executive. It’s inspirational.

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a vintage Louis Vuitton trunk [pictured] from Grays antiques in London. My husband and I bought it on the way to the airport with no time to overthink its price or practicality. It is one of my favourite pieces and serves as a coffee table in our living room. 58 Davies St, London W1 (020-7629 7034; www.graysantiques.com).

Brown’s vintage Louis Vuitton trunk | Image: Weston Wells

Objects I would never part with are framed photos of my sons – Dylan [25], Dakota [23] and Duke [17] – given to me by my husband for Mother’s Day. The beautiful silver frames hold the first picture taken of each child – they’re incredibly special.

The beauty staples I’m never without include my own Intensive Skin Serum Concealer, my “desert island cosmetic” that leaves my skin looking like I’ve had eight hours sleep; Bumble and Bumble’s Mending Shampoo and Conditioner, excellent for colour-treated hair; Tweezerman tweezers for their precision; and fragrance – one of my own, or Chanel No 5 or Cristalle, which are light and fresh. Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Serum Concealer, £28 for 7ml; www.bobbibrown.co.uk. Bumble and Bumble Mending Shampoo, £23 for 250ml, and Conditioner, £25 for 250ml; www.bumbleandbumble.co.uk. Chanel Cristalle, £52 for 50ml EDP, and No 5, £68 for 50ml EDP; www.chanel.com. Tweezerman tweezers, £19; www.tweezerman.co.uk.

Casa Dragones Tequila, $275 for 75cl

The last meal that truly impressed me was at RL in Chicago. The decor is perfect – clubby with rich fabrics and oil paintings. We had oysters with mignonette granité, followed by incredible Dover sole; they make a mean martini too. Chicago is my hometown and I’m friends with the Lauren family, so this place is very special to me. 115 E Chicago Ave, Chicago, IL 60611 (+1312-475 1100; www.rlrestaurant.com).

My favourite websites include NYTimes.com, WSJ.com and FT.com for hard news, and Thecoveteur.com for the latest beauty products and trends. Twitter is my first check of the day; if any news is breaking, I’ll learn about it here. www.twitter.com.

Bobbi Brown talks personal taste: Part Two

The cosmetics doyenne concludes her compendium of passions with shopping in SoHo, her love affair with London and the wellbeing treatments she can’t live without

My style icon is Phoebe Philo. I like her simple aesthetic: a shirt is a shirt and a pair of trousers is a pair of trousers, but with her flawless design and fabric choices these pieces become special. She carries herself beautifully too and I think she is a wonderful role model – a working mother who puts her family first. To me, she embodies effortless, timeless style.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a series of portraits by photographer Henry Leutwyler, to my friend John Demsey [group president of Estée Lauder]. Leutwyler photographed his four-year-old daughter as a surprise. www.henryleutwyler.com.

Bobbi Brown’s Flamingos suede boots, £300 | Image: Weston Wells

And the best one I’ve received recently was a pair of delicate hoop earrings with clusters of dangling pearls by my favourite jewellery designer Ted Muehling. I have an incredible collection of his things – strands of pearls in rosy pink and opalescent colours; simple brushed-gold earrings – and they often inspire my make-up colours and collections. www.tedmuehling.com.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year was Biarritz with my whole family, including my three grown sons and their girlfriends. There is nothing better than a beachy vacation with French food and we ate delicious seafood in atmospheric seaside restaurants like Le Surfing. It was a very relaxing, special trip. 9 Boulevard Prince de Galles, 64200 Biarritz (+3355-924 7872; www.lesurfing.fr).

The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing include my osteopath, Dr Erik Steiner, whose bi-weekly sessions keep me perfectly aligned with just 45 minutes of gentle manipulation. Then there’s my manicurist, Roza Israel, who comes to our offices weekly and is available to all our staff, and my hairstylist Marissa Martoni at Marie Robinson; she’s been cutting my hair for years and I trust her completely. I also have regular Chinese massages at a small and non-descript salon near my house; I love the low-key atmosphere and the fact that I don’t have to book it in advance. Dr Erik Steiner, 41 Union Square West, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-227 6967; www.eriksteinerwellness.com). Marie Robinson Salon, 10th floor, 40 W 25th St, New York, NY 10010 (+1212- 358 7780; www.marierobinsonsalon.com). Roza Israel, rozaisrael@yahoo.com.

A recent “find” is Sant Ambroeus restaurant on Lafayette Street near our offices in New York. It’s been open for a while but is only now coming onto my radar. I love everything about the place – the warm atmosphere, the simple-yet-delicious food, the excellent people-watching. The owner is an amazing host. 265 Lafayette Street, New York, NY 10012 (+1212-966 2770; www.santambroeus.com).

Phoebe Philo | Image: David Sims

If I didn’t live in Montclair, New Jersey, the city I would live in is London because I am something of an Anglophile. I would love to live in Mayfair, at the Connaught, with its wonderful bar and special fresh-ginger tea. I like the beautiful architecture in this area and its proximity to Hyde Park, where I’d go running. Scott’s is one of my favourite restaurants in the world and I love the beautiful salads and grains at both The Detox Kitchen and Ottolenghi. I’m also a big fan of the theatre and living here would make seeing the latest plays much easier. The Connaught, Carlos Place (020-7499 7070; www.the-connaught.co.uk). Detox Kitchen, 10 Kingly Street (020-7439 9386; www.detoxkitchen.co.uk). Ottolenghi, 13 Motcomb Street (020-7823 2707; www.ottolenghi.co.uk). Scott’s, 20 Mount Street (020-7495 7309; www.scotts-restaurant.com).

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a pair of black suede platform boots by Flamingos. I’m typically a sneaker girl and love comfortable footwear, but sometimes I need a bit of height. These boots have a thick rubber sole and can be worn with everything from Acne jeans to black Nili Lotan pants. £300; www.fwrd.com.

London at dusk | Image: Getty Images/Robert Harding World Imagery

In my fridge you’ll always find almond milk for my morning espressos and freshly squeezed lemon juice for my husband’s hot-water infusions. There’ll be eggs, all kinds of berries for smoothies and, typically, the makings of a casual dinner – a roast chicken from Whole Foods, Rao’s pasta sauce, kale for a salad – and San Pellegrino grapefruit soda, which the whole family likes mixed with sparkling water. www.raos.com. www.sanpellegrinofruitbeverages.com. www.wholefoodsmarket.com.

My favourite room in my house is my bedroom. It’s a soothing space – very open and full of serene whites and greys. I like to retreat here to read and watch TV, usually at the same time, before drifting off to sleep.

Sant Ambroeus in SoHo | Image: Bruce Buck

The artists whose work I would collect if I could include Banksy, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol. I love the colour, composition and openness of pop art, and while the vibrancy isn’t in keeping with my personal aesthetic, I find their work very stirring.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose SoHo in New York; I love the street life in this area and the high-low mix of stores. There’s Acne Studios and Maison Margiela for shoes and Steven Alan for its clothing edit. The spare Céline store on Wooster Street is my go-to for timeless pieces and I like J Crew for basics such as cashmere sweaters. Equinox has an excellent selection of freshly squeezed juices and raw foods and Balthazar is the best for delicious take away salads. Acne Studios, 33 Greene Street (+1212-334 8345; www.acnestudios.com).Balthazar, 80 Spring Street (+1212-965 1414; www.balthazarny.com). Céline, 67 Wooster Street (+1212-226 8001; www.celine.com). Equinox, 69 Prince Street (+1212-334 4631; www.equinox.com). J Crew, 99 Prince Street (+1212-966 2739; www.jcrew.com). Maison Margiela, 91 Grand Street (+1646-781 7852; www.maisonmargiela.com). Steven Alan, 230 Elizabeth Street (+1212-343 7974; www.stevenalan.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a chef. I like simple, great-tasting food that makes you look and feel good and I’d love to be able to cook on a regular basis. This is a huge area of interest for me, so much so that I’m signed up for cooking classes with Lily Kunin, founder of Clean Food, Dirty City, where I hope to learn to make delicious, plant-based meals. www.cleanfooddirtycity.com.

The Elder Statesman

The cashmere faithful flock to this 1950s West Hollywood bungalow for casual cool pieces inspired by beach culture

Acashmere jumper may be a tried and tested Christmas gift, but at The Elder Statesman it comes with a cool California twist. The luxury lifestyle label founded in 2007 by laid-back LA designer Greg Chait (first picture) takes its name – and ethos – from 18th-century British parliamentarian William Pitt. “I was inspired by his no-nonsense approach, and everything we make is similarly straightforward,” says the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner.

And his spare and striking shop in a 1950s West Hollywood bungalow is an extension of this design standpoint. The 1,600sq ft space today showcases Chait’s beach-culture-inspired pieces – from striped monochrome Picasso Crewnecks ($1,165) to the woven Cutter T-shirts ($895) in shades of magenta and royal blue – against white stucco walls and clean-lined blond-wood fixtures and furniture.

Image: Steve Schofield

“I wanted a retail space with a sense of discovery,” says Chait, who collaborated with Commune Design, the local architects behind the Ace hotels, on the Zen, copper-roofed structure, complete with enormous pivoting windows and a desert garden. Amid the cacti and olive trees is a cushion-circled fire pit, encouraging visitors to lounge and linger. But despite the design credentials and midcentury-modern feel, the boutique is essentially a blank canvas for Chait to focus on exquisitely fine yarn – made in Italy and Scotland, hand‑spun in Mongolia, and loomed, knitted, linked and embellished at The Elder Statesman’s factory in nearby Culver City. “Ninety-five per cent of our pieces are made in LA; 100 per cent come through our hands for quality control,” he adds.

The Baja Pullover ($2,140) is the brand’s signature sweater, a slightly oversized hoodie ranging from muted beige to vibrant, dip-dyed indigo; the Favorite Tee ($445), with its relaxed silhouette, is another unisex, year-round classic. Bolder seasonal knits include a tie-dyed heavy cardigan in ivory and maroon ($915), and felted sweatshirts ($1,354) and T-shirts ($540) created in collaboration with the Los Angeles Contemporary Museum of Art; inspired by the Granville Redmond painting California Poppy Field, they combine floral patterns and bold text with classic sportswear shapes and raw edges.

And it’s not just tops. Weighty cashmere blankets (from $3,360, second picture) and enormous, cosseting quilts (from $8,895) nestle next to sumptuous socks ($275). Art tomes from nearby Arcana books and buffalo-horn sunglasses ($1,995) from Germany round out the casually cool offerings. “My clients range from 20 to 80 years old, and typically they cross over with brands such as Céline, The Row and Rick Owens. They don’t need labels and are attracted to products with soul,” says Chait of the cashmere faithful who pilgrimage from Paris and Hong Kong as well as nearby Beverly Hills.

“I want my customers to feel that an Elder Statesman sweater is their favourite thing in their closet,” says Chait. “Everything is made in the best possible way – from the cashmere products to the clean-lined space. We didn’t cut any corners here, and I hope people walk away with a good vibe.”

Angela Missoni talks personal taste: Part One

Angela Missoni is creative director of her family’s knitwear brand, loved for its psychedelic zig-zags and vibrant colour

My personal style signifiers are the long gold chains with pendants I collect and have worn every day for the past 15 years. I like to be inventive with my jewellery and often add charms or beads to necklaces and dangly earrings, and I always wear stacks of silver filigree and gold rings on at least six or seven of my fingers.

The last thing I bought and loved was a classic Persian carpet [pictured] with the words “Good ideas come through freedom” burned into the fibres, by Italian artist Loredana Longo. It is beautiful and inspirational. www.loredanalongo.com.

Wicked Game by Chris Isaak

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a tree house for my home in Sumirago, outside Milan. I have always loved the idea of a secret escape and just this morning, walking in my garden, I found the perfect tree for it. My grandson, Otto, will love it too.

A recent “find” is La Baia di Moltrasio, a bar and restaurant at the top of a local rowing club on Lake Como. The terrace is very romantic in the summer months and long tables are set up inside during colder weather too. It is all about the food here and their fresh fish grilled with butter and herbs and the local speciality, riso in cagnone [rice fried with butter and sage], are the best I’ve ever tasted. Via Bellini 4, 22010 Moltrasio (+39031-376 093; www.labaiadimoltrasio.com).

The last items I added to my wardrobe were a pair of lime-green Nike Flyknit trainers [pictured]. I’d been eyeing them for a while and walking all over Milan in high heels during Fashion Week finally clinched the deal. I love the bright colour and knitted design. £130; www.nike.com.

An object I would never part with is a painting that once hung in my grandmother’s house and was given to me by a dear aunt. It is of a young girl from the 1950s and I like that it now hangs next to a colourful contemporary Tracey Emin piece in my house.

Missoni’s Persian carpet by Loredana Longo | Image: Gaia Cambiaggi

An indulgence I would never forgo is time spent at the Sofitel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa [pictured] in Brittany. I have been going to this magnetic place for years; it is one of my favourite spots in the world because of the scenery – the rocks and beaches are spectacular – and the thalassotherapy massages, salt scrubs and seaweed wraps. It’s a very healthy, holistic place – not a beauty spa or a place of deprivation – and I always leave feeling refreshed, energised and a bit slimmer. It is one of the only spas I know that also appeals to men, which makes it a wonderful escape for my partner Bruno and I. Boulevard Louison Bobet, 56170 Quiberon (+332-9750 4888; www.thalassa.com).

The last music I downloaded was Wicked Game by Chris Isaak [pictured]. The song is old but I love the tune and the lyrics; it figured prominently in my last fashion show.

Missoni’s Nike Roshe Flyknit iD | Image: Gaia Cambiaggi

The beauty staples I’m never without are traditional hammam gloves and Tunisian black soap, which I use daily to exfoliate, and Louis Widmer’s Remederm Shower Oil, which is good for sensitive skin and leaves me feeling very moisturised. £8 for 150ml; www.louis‑widmer.nl.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the 5Vie art and design district in Milan. I love Wait and See, an eclectic clothes shop in a former 18th-century convent that sells a mix of emerging designers and vintage finds from all over the world. And Rossana Orlandi – a magical design gallery set in a garden courtyard – is a treasure trove of new and classic pieces. Afterwards, a stop at La Latteria nearby is a must; it’s a tiny, authentic place with only about eight tables and they serve delicious traditionally Milanese riso al salto – risotto fritters. La Latteria San Marco, Via S Marco 24 (+3902-659 7653). Rossana Orlandi, Via Matteo Bandello 14/16 (+3902-467 4471; www.rossanaorlandi.com). Wait and See, Via Santa Marta 14 (+3902-7208 0195; www.waitandsee.it).

Sofitel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa, Brittany | Image: Eric Culliver

My favourite websites are the Business of Fashion for industry news; Corriere della Sera and The New York Times for current affairs; and Internazionale for the best articles from all over the world. I am also a huge fan of Instagram. www.businessoffashion.com. www.corriere.it. www.internazionale.it. www.instagram.com. www.nytimes.com.